Fold the stove with your own hands: step -by -step instructions

It is a fact that many owners do not represent a private house without a furnace, even with the abundance of kitchen and heating equipment available today. The stove will be helpful even if it is not intended to create an autonomous heating system. For instance, I don’t want to create an excessive amount of moisture in the house during the spring or fall when full heating is no longer required, but I still want to save money. You can maintain the ideal ball of NS on the premises by providing the stove once a day or every two days.

Follow the step-by-step directions to fold the stove by yourself.

For a novice, folding the stove by hand according to the detailed instructions—which include intricate configurations—will be challenging. It is therefore preferable to select a reasonably priced option for an order that can be easily resolved if there is no prior experience with the stove.

When selecting a model, you should consider the heat transfer and functionality of the furnace in addition to the scheme’s simplicity, as certain furnaces may lack certain features. The area that needs to be heated by the heating structure determines which heat transfer method is best.

There are many different types of furnaces because skilled stoves who work on one of them alter its design, leading to the appearance of ever-more options for the heating appliance. Additionally, you must be aware of how each type of furnace operates in order to focus on it.

The cost of installing furnaces using fireclay bricks

Shamotic brick

Types of brick furnaces

The most common type of home stoves are brick ones; they are designed only for heating purposes and do not have any additional built-in features.

  • The heating-welding furnace can have not only a hob, but an oven and a tank for warming water, as well as a drying niche. In addition, such a structure can heat one or two rooms of a certain area.

A heating-welding furnace example

These stoves are frequently integrated into the wall, with the furnace and hob facing the kitchen and the living room on the back wall. As a result, the furnace serves three purposes: it prepares food, acts as a partition, and provides dry heat to the living room or bedroom.

  • Heating stoves only work for heating, and most often have a compact size. Such a stove is installed precisely in order to support the Ball of the NS AGI and heat in the house in the fall or spring, when it is too early to turn on autonomous heating or not yet turned on the central.

Small heating stove featuring a window for the fireplace

If there is a stove in the country that can be used to cook food, it would be a good idea to install one of these. If the summer village’s power supply is frequently cut off, it is preferable to install in a building that has a hob.

  • The hob can also serve for heating, if you need to heat a small area. The device is perfect for a summer house or for a small building for permanent residence.

With a stove like that and firewood on hand, you won’t have to worry about the house being chilly and dark or the family going without dinner or hot tea when the gas or electricity is turned off.

It should be mentioned that furnaces can be either massive or compact. The area of the house or room and the designated construction site are taken into consideration when choosing the furnace structure’s size.

Choosing a place to install a furnace

The intricacies that are crucial for both creating comfortable working conditions and fire safety must be taken into consideration when selecting a location for a furnace. When building a house, it is especially crucial to consider where to put the furnace because a chimney built on an attic ceiling beam or roof rafters should not collapse.

The stove can be built into an interior wall of the house, placed in the center of the room, or mounted at the inner load-bearing wall.

  • It is not recommended to build a stove near the outer wall, as it will quickly get out of the way, and the effectiveness of its use will be significantly reduced.
  • In the middle of a large room, the furnace is installed if it is necessary to divide the room into two zones. Especially – with a beautiful decorative decoration, it will become a decoration of the house and can become one of the elements for the interior that emphasizes a certain style.
  • When embeding a stove into the partition between the rooms, it is necessary to provide for its insulation from the combustible materials of the wall, using the heat -resistant sheets of asbestos or a special drywall.
  • The place allocated for the furnace should be larger than its base by 120 ÷ 150 mm in each direction, since the perimeter of the foundation always slightly exceeds the size of the furnace.
  • In order to make it easier to decide on the size, you need to choose a model to which the scheme is attached.

You can start with the material purchases and tool preparations once the model has been chosen and the installation location has been established. The masonry tools are always the same, but the quantity and variety of materials chosen for each model are different.

Information about how a wooden house’s chimney is installed might be of interest to you.

Work tools for work

The following equipment and instruments are required for the furnace’s erection process:

The typical toolset of an expert

A) Kirk splits and flushes brick.

B) They can remove the dried solution that was applied outside of the masonry with ease, and the stove hammer performs the same duties as the chirus.

C) Concrete is aligned on the foundation’s surface using this rule. It is frequently made separately from a yielding board that is perfectly flat.

D) The clay solution is mixed and rubbed with a wooden shoulder blade.

E) The level is an essential tool that will support the rows’ evenness in both the horizontal and vertical directions.

F) Sand and solidified solution are removed from the furnace’s interior surfaces using Methala’s panel.

G) pliers are used to bite and bend steel wire during the installation and maintenance of the structure’s cast-iron components.

H) When completing the stove with tiles, the lead is used for placements.

I) A chukalts, which is a pipe segment that fits the tiles.

K) Strokes drawing chamber.

K) Rashpil is used to remove influxes from finished masonry and grind lumps.

M) In order to remove internal and external angles by 90 degrees, the construction angle is required.

M) The plumb line is used to verify that the walls are vertical.

O) To launch, a rubber hammer is placed in a row of bricks.

N) To examine the old masonry and split brick, a chisel is required.

P) During masonry, excess solution is removed using wizards or cells and then applied to the brick rows.

C) If the furnace is not lined with finishing material, an extension will be required, and the seams between the rows will be meticulously formalized.

If the solution is made separately, you will also need a sieve for sand and two containers for the solution and water.

If there are "goats," the masonry of the upper rows will be simpler.

Scaffolds, sometimes referred to as "goats," are necessary for the ease of work. Given that the size of the work site allows for the installation of a container with a solution, it is convenient to stand on them by masonry at a height.

Basic foundation arrangement

  • The foundation for the furnace is usually laid together with the overall basis for the entire structure, but they should not be interconnected, since with deformation or shrinkage one of them can damage the other.
  • If the furnace is built in a house already built on a strip or column foundation, which has a wooden floor, then you will have to open the coating and build the base under the stove from the soil.
  • If a compact furnace model is selected, and a slab foundation is arranged under the house, then the heating structure can be built directly on it by making a waterproofing gasket.

Estimated stove foundation layout

In the event that the NT foundation needs to be equipped "from scratch," it is important to keep in mind that it should resemble the furnace base in shape but extend beyond its bounds by 120 to 150 mm on each side.

  • The contour of the foundation is marked on the wooden floor, a part of the plank coating is cut according to the markings.
  • Further, in the ground underground, a pit of the desired size is born, with a depth of 450 ÷ 500 mm.
  • The soil at the bottom of the pit is well tamped, and a sandy pour is made on it, which is moistened with water and also tamped to a thickness of 80 ÷ 100 mm.

A hole with a "pillow" made of sand and gravel beneath a stove foundation.

  • After that, along the perimeter of the pit, you can lay a roofing material that will perform the function of waterproofing and formwork if it is temporarily strengthened with boards or bricks. After the concrete solution is hardened, the formwork from the foundation is removed.

Use a plastic canvas-covered formwork made of boards that are closed from the inside in place of roofing material.

It is important to note right away that it is preferable if the stove’s concrete base rises 70 to 100 mm above the floor. As a result, you can save brick and streamline the docking of the foundation’s side walls and floor surface.

  • A layer of crushed stone of the same thickness is falling asleep on top of the sand and is also well compacted.
  • The next step at the bottom of the pit is installed a reinforcing grate made of metal wire or finished mesh. Elements of the lattice are interconnected by twisting from wire.

Option for reinforcing the foundation

  • The first layer of solution is poured into the prepared pit. It can consist of crushed stone, sand and cement – 1: 2: 1 or gravel and cement 3: 1. This layer should occupy approximately ⅓ filled space.
  • Having filled the first layer, immediately knead and pour the second, consisting of sand and cement in proportions 3: 1.

In order to provide the 50 mm of height that is needed for the upper leveling foundation of NT, the second layer is poured to that height.

If necessary, the formwork can be expanded for the upper layer of concrete. A reinforcing mesh with cells measuring 70 × 80 mm can then be laid on top of the flooded solution.

Reinforcement of the foundation’s upper layer

  • Then the last upper layer of the solution is poured and aligned using the rule.

The concrete is allowed to mature on the foundation for a period of 27 to 30 days. Concrete will become more robust and monolithic if it is regularly moistened with water and covered with plastic film.

Until the concrete is completely mature, the flooded foundation is left in place.

Following the formwork’s removal from the completed foundation, two or three layers of roofing material are installed to shield the furnace’s brick masonry from capillary moisture that enters from below ground.

You can then move on to the most important task, which is installing the furnace.

Several recommendations for masonry work

  • Before starting the masonry of bricks on the solution, the entire structure rises from bricks dry, but each of the rows must be strictly laid out in accordance with the circuit-condemn.

Expert stovers advise all masters who take on the furnace’s construction to start with preliminary masonry. This occurrence is required in order to locate all internal channels and avoid making major errors when rearranging the bricks in every row.

You must prepare wooden rails in advance of performing the masonry, as they will dictate the brick-to-brick seam thickness. They typically have a thickness of 5-7 mm. The primary laying that has already been completed with the solution will require the use of the same rail. A precise "calibration" of the seam’s thickness is particularly important if the masonry is completed "under the extension."

It is crucial to comprehend how the smoke will be diverted from the furnace and fall into the chimneys, so this pro-SS pr is driven slowly and carefully.

  • Raising the dry design until the pipe began, it is carefully disassembled. If the bricks were adjusted at the same time in size, then each row can be folded in a separate stack, putting the number of a row on bricks with a marker and a place in it .
  • Performing the main masonry, each of the rows is also first laid out dry, and then, after thorough fitting all the parts, mounted on the solution.
  • When the main masonry is carried out, two measuring rails are laid on the edges of the previous row to withstand the exact thickness of the seam. Then the solution is applied with a layer of 10 ÷ 12 mm. A brick is laid on top of the solution, pressed, and if necessary, launched by a rubber hammer until the brick rises to the measured rail. The excessive solution is selected by a trowel.

Techniques for masonry and extension

  • The rails are pulled out of the masonry after the installation of the third and fourth row above them, and then used again. Therefore, you need to prepare several pairs of these auxiliary elements.
  • Having pulled out the slats, the seams are carefully filled with the solution and immediately "extended".
  • Conducting masonry to the solution, each of the rows is checked using the construction level for observing horizontal and vertical planes.

Following these details will make erecting any furnace easier and help prevent "fatal" mistakes that could require redoing the entire job.

Heating-welding furnace with a drying chamber of design Yu. Proskurin

As was already mentioned, a wide variety of stove models exist. In this publication, a space-efficient solution that can accommodate a 16 by 17-meter room will be discussed. It is a compact and functional option that can be installed in a small house.

The Yu. Proskurina furnace is a double-borous heating-welding model that has a drying chamber for drying fruits and vegetables, as well as mushrooms and medicinal herbs. It also has a single-end plate.P.

Furnace for welding and heating Proskurina Yu. with a drying room

If preferred, a box containing a suitable oven can be placed in the drying chamber’s niche.

The furnace measures 750 x 630 x 2070 mm, not including the height of the chimney. It transfers 1700 kcal/h of heat. It is crucial for fuel conservation and the ability to heat plates and cook food without running the entire structure during the summer that the design allows for two operating modes: winter and summer.

A list of necessary materials

To construct a heating structure of this kind, the following supplies are required:

Name of materials and elements Quantity (pcs.) Sizes of elements (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe masonry) 281 ÷ 285
Shamot brick refractory brands Sh-8 82 ÷ 85
The door is furnace 1 210 × 250
Devils for treatment channels 2 140 × 140
The door for blown 1 140 × 250
Summer switch for a chimney 1 130 × 130
Garge of the firebox 1 130 × 130
Hob 1 130 × 130
Gindly 1 200 × 300
The hob panel is single -end 1 410 × 340
Steel strip 1 40 × 260 × 5
1 40 × 350 × 5
1 40 × 360 × 5
Steel corner 1 40 × 40 × 635
3 40 × 40 × 510
4 40 × 40 × 350
Roofing iron 1 380 × 310
Fuel -off sheet of metal 1 500 × 700

Clay, sand, cement, crushed stone, gravel, Mergel, and the oven box are also needed for the work, should it be decided to install the oven in place of a drying niche.

Scheme-feeding the construction of the furnace of the design. Proskurin

Illustration A brief description of the full operation
The first row is laid out with a continuous plane in compliance with the location of the bricks.
It is very important to put this series perfectly exactly in all respects, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it.
In the second row, a blowing (ash) camera and the base of two vertical channels are formed.
On the same row, the doors of the blowing and food chambers are installed.
On metal doors, special ears are provided, into which segments of steel wire are threaded and twisted – they will then be embedded in the seams between the bricks.
temporarily, until they are fully consolidated, doors are supported by bricks from one or two sides.
On the third row, the formation of a blunt chamber and the lower part of the vertical channel chamber continues.
simultaneously consolidated on both sides of the installed doors.
On the fourth row, the doors of the blower and food chambers completely overlap the bricks.
The general camera of vertical channels is separated in two, therefore, instead of one large hole, two are formed that have the size of the length of the ⅔ brick, and the width in the shelter.
The fifth row is completely laid out with chamotis brick.
Over the ash chamber, a hole is formed with a seating place for a grate. To do this, part of the brick is cut out, from the side to which it should be turned to the hole above the blower chamber.
The grater is also mounted on the same row. It is planted on a clay solution or laid freely, without a solution.
between him and the brick should remain 4-5 mm.
On the sixth row, the formation of a furnace chamber and vertical channels continues.
In addition, a furnace door is installed on the same row, the frame of which must be wrapped or covered with an asbestos, which when heated the metal will make it possible to expand without tension and damage.
The seventh and eighth rows are laid out according to the order, the formation of the firebox and vertical channels continues on them.
On the ninth row, the furnace door is overlapped with brick.
Moreover, in order to remove the load from the ceiling from the door, the side and the third from the edge of the bricks are stuck on one side and a brick is installed between them, embedded on two sides.
On the tenth row, the fuel chamber and the first vertical channel are combined – this is done so that hot smoke from the furnace is directed precisely to this hole created.
for the smoothness of the stroke of smoke, the protruding angle of whole brick, which encloses the second vertical channel, is cut off.
On the eleventh row, the masonry goes according to the scheme, with the exception of the fact that at the edges of the bricks framing the furnace camera, cutouts are made that will form a recess for the installation of a single -end hobby panel.
Then, on the same row, asbestos stripes are laid on the cuts made on bricks, and the slab panel is mounted on them.
from the formation of the hob nish set a steel corner.
The 12th row is laid out of red brick, and in the future the whole masonry comes from it.
Two vertical channels are made again, and the formation of a niche around the hob is going on.
The 13th row is placed according to the scheme, but in the front of the first vertical channel, a place is formed for installing a summer-winter-winter valve.
After that, a valve is mounted on a clay-sand solution.
From 14 to 17 row, masonry is performed according to one principle – a hob and channels are formed.
On the 18th row by steel corners, the hobby niche is overlapping.
One of them is mounted on the edge of the niche, the second – at a brick distance from the first, and the third is pressed to the second back side.
This is done in order to conveniently carry out the masonry of the next row.
On the 19th row, the hob is completely overlapped, with the exception of the formation of the opening of the steamed channel and the place to install the valve.
For this, cuts are made on bricks in which the valve is mounted.
The 20th row is laid out according to the scheme.
on it continues the formation of two vertical channels and a steamed hole.
Moreover, if you look closely, you can see that one of the bricks forming the first vertical channel is embarrassed.
On the 21st row there is a unification of the first vertical channel and steamed with the help of a hollow space left.
In this series, almost all bricks are placed only along the walls of the perimeter of the structure.
Frighten only the second vertical channel.
In the same row, the resulting cavity is overlapped with metal stripes, which are laid according to the scheme shown in the figure.
Next, a sheet of roof iron is covered on steel stripes, with the help of which a chimney hole is organized, located on the opposite side of the steamed hole.
On the 22nd row, masonry is carried out on top of the roof sheet.
left a hole for the chimney and two holes of vertical channels.
In the place where the drying niche will be formed, the section of the corner will be laid, which will protect the brick on the edge of the chamber from damage and make the edge of the niche more accurate.
23rd – a drying chamber is formed, and its back wall is made of brick installed on the side.
He fierce the camera from the hole of the chimney channel.
On the 24 row, the walls of the drying chamber, chimney and two vertical channels are formed.
25 row – work continues according to the scheme.
The second brick of the back wall of the camera is installed in the same way as the first.
On the 26th row, preparations are underway for the unification of two vertical channels, so the internal bricks in both holes are stuck at a small angle.
27 row – masonry combines the first and second channel.
For them, a general treatment door is installed.
The rest of the work is under the scheme.
On the 28th row, the drying chamber is overlapping with three segments of the corners according to the same principle as the collar of the hob was made.
Vertical channels are combined into one wide, and the treatment door is fixed with side bricks.
On the 29th, the drying chamber and vertical channels completely overlap.
The hole of the chimney canal is left, which is covered with bricks with carved landing grooves for a chimney valve.
After laying a row, a frame with a valve is installed on the clay-sand solution.
On the 30th row, the entire surface of the furnace completely overlaps.
only chimney is left, which should have the size in half a brick.
31-32 row – the formation of a furnace pipe begins.

A stove is shown in the context in this figure. The circuit displays every internal channel that heated air will flow through.

Cuts clearly depict the arrangement of the furnace’s internal channels.

A novice stove can easily build this simple model in his home if he carefully studies the schematics. The most important thing is to follow all of the helpful advice and work on the masonry project slowly and carefully. Visit our website to learn how to calculate heating in a house.

A more complicated option is available if you have faith in your own skills. For instance, as demonstrated in the video:

Video: Device video instruction on the construction of a heating and welding furnace

Afanasyev Evgeny, Chief Editor

The publication’s author (20.09.2015)

Looking to create a cozy and warm atmosphere in your home? Building a stove with your own hands can be a rewarding and practical project that enhances your heating efficiency while adding a rustic charm to your living space. In our step-by-step guide on "Fold the Stove with Your Own Hands," we"ll walk you through the process, from choosing the right materials to mastering the construction techniques. Whether you"re a seasoned DIY enthusiast or just starting out, our easy-to-follow instructions will help you create a functional and stylish stove that keeps your home warm and inviting during the chilly months. So, roll up your sleeves and get ready to embark on a hands-on journey to improve your home"s heating and insulation!

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Michael Kuznetsov

I love to create beauty and comfort with my own hands. In my articles I share tips on warming the house and repairing with my own hands.

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