Foam foil foil: technical characteristics and recommendations for use

Insulation is essential for maintaining a comfortable and energy-efficient home. Foam foil is a material that is particularly useful for insulation because of its remarkable technical properties and range of uses. We’ll dive into the world of foam foil insulation in this post, examining its special qualities and providing helpful usage suggestions.

Let’s start by clarifying what foam foil insulation is. In essence, it’s a kind of insulation made of foam material encased in reflective foil layers. It can effectively withstand heat transfer by radiation, conduction, and convection thanks to its design. It is especially effective in both hot and cold climates because the foil reflects radiant heat and the foam offers thermal resistance.

The adaptability of foam foil insulation is one of its main advantages. It is applicable to walls, floors, roofs, and HVAC systems, among other areas of the house. Foam foil insulation can be an affordable way to increase comfort and energy efficiency in any type of home, new construction or retrofitting an old one.

The simplicity of installation is another benefit of using foam foil insulation. In contrast to certain other forms of insulation, foam foil is usually supplied in easy-to-handle rolls or sheets for installation. Working with foam foil insulation can be relatively simple for both professional contractors and do-it-yourself enthusiasts, resulting in labor savings and time savings.

Foam foil insulation does, however, require some best practices and considerations for optimum performance, just like any other building material. To maximize its effectiveness, one must comprehend elements like recommended thickness, appropriate installation methods, and moisture management. We’ll offer insightful analysis and useful advice throughout this post to help you maximize the benefits of foam foil insulation in your house.

In the realm of home heating and insulation, understanding the ins and outs of different materials is key. When it comes to foam foil insulation, it"s essential to grasp its technical aspects and how best to utilize it. This versatile material, comprised of foam sandwiched between layers of reflective foil, offers excellent thermal resistance and moisture protection. Its lightweight nature makes it easy to install in various settings, from attics to walls. To maximize its effectiveness, ensuring proper installation is crucial, sealing any gaps or overlaps meticulously. Additionally, considering factors like climate and building structure can further enhance its performance. By harnessing the technical characteristics of foam foil insulation and following recommended practices, homeowners can significantly improve energy efficiency and comfort within their homes.

Foam-foil insulation technology

Dowels are used to secure 1.5–2 cm thick laths to the cleaned, intended-to-be-insulated surface. This creates the required space for ventilation between the foundation and the insulation.

The spacing between the bars is 60 cm, which is equal to either half the width or the width of the insulation sheet (the typical width of a foam sheet is 60 or 120 cm).

On the laths, foam sheets are positioned butt to butt. A construction stapler is used to secure the insulation sheets to the laths.

To guarantee that the insulation sheets are completely sealed, the joints between the sheets should be positioned on the laths and adhered to using metallized tape. Next, two rows of laths are positioned on the insulation layer, perpendicular to the first row, serving as the foundation for fastening the freshly installed laths.

Foam-foil can be used for external and internal insulation. Foamed foams should be placed foil side inside the room when used as internal insulation.

Foam foil of type "A" or "B" is appropriate for use as floor insulation. The second level of purlins is topped with plywood sheets secured with self-tapping screws. Next comes the installation of the floor covering (linoleum, parquet, laminate).

Wall insulation is finished by fastening gypsum board sheets, wood, or plastic panels to the external frame. The latter should be painted or covered with wallpaper after being puttied.

It is permissible to fix foam sheets that overlap by up to 10 cm when insulating the balcony. Foamed foams with perforations are frequently used for external insulation. It aids in removing moisture and vapor from the structure.

Note: In dry, warm weather, exterior insulation must be installed using foamed polystyrene. The walls must have their surface cleaned and treated with an antiseptic. Here, siding or other facing material panels are attached to the outer purlin.

The second frame does not need to be made if the facing layer is brick. Bricks are placed 3–4 cm away from the bearing wall to provide the required bonding.

In this instance, siding or other facing panels are fastened to the outer purlin. Making a second frame is not necessary if the facing layer is brick. Bricks are placed to provide the required bonding, 3–4 cm from the bearing wall.

Tools and materials

The following instruments are needed to insulate the structure with the material mentioned above:

• construction level, knife, tape measure;
• stapler and staples;
• trowels;
• marker;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• sandpaper.

Dowels are frequently used to fasten the material. Additionally, the substrate should be primed as part of the preparation. If the base is made of wood, more fireproofing and antiseptic treatment is needed.

Ceiling and roof cladding

The following plan (shown above in the drawing) is suggested for the initial insulation of the attic roof’s slopes:

1. On top of the rafters horizontally laid waterproofing – diffusion membrane, the minimum overlap – 100 mm. The order of fixing the webs is from bottom to top.
2. The membrane is clamped to the beams with bars counter-battens, horizontal boards of the main purlin are nailed to them. From above, the roof covering is mounted – metal tile, slate, profiled sheet and so on.
3. From the inside, horizontal bars 50-60 mm thick are fixed to the rafters, the installation step – 60 cm.
4. Three-layer "Penofol" type B with two foiled surfaces is shot to the bars. Note that the thin insulation goes around the rafters so that there is a gap on both sides.
5. Internal cladding is screwed vertically to the ends of the bars – wagon, moisture-resistant gypsum board, chipboard panels or other finishing materials.

Take note! The "Penofol" roll is placed vertically on the surface, with adjacent cloths placed butt to butt rather than overlapped. Aluminum tape is used to carefully glue the seams.

The joints are sealed with mounting tape that is at least 50 mm wide.

Since the metal roof gets extremely hot in the summer, the insulator in this instance reflects heat flows from both sides. The membrane removes moisture from the outer vent, leaving the inner layer without ventilation. Since "Penofol" acts as a barrier to steam, natural exhaust from the attic needs to be arranged using a different vent channel.

The drawing displayed above is not correct; there isn’t an external counter-batten to provide a ventilation vent above the super diffusion membrane. The purlin framework is visible on the following version of the scheme, which displays the mansard roof’s thermal insulation "pie." What distinguishes this cladding technique from the others?

1. Between the rafters there is a powerful layer of basic insulation – 120-200 mm of mineral wool.
2. From below, the minwool is lined with two-layer "Foamfoil" type A directly on the ends of the beams. Aluminum is facing the inside of the attic room, the webs are deployed horizontally.
3. Between polyethylene and mineral wool insulation left a gap of 2-3 cm, on the side of the foil – about 4 cm.
4. The bars for interior finishing are nailed to the ends of the beams right through the layer of polyethylene.

There is a space between the foil surface and the cladding, which faces inside the room.

The incision makes it evident that "Penofol" serves as an extra vapor barrier and insulator because the conventional film from the inside is not present. Through the waterproofing membrane and upper vent, moisture that has accumulated in mineral wool is expelled. Supply and exhaust ventilation removes vapors from human activity.

Advice: When using "Penofol," it’s critical to grasp its fundamentals: the polyethylene base is laid close to the building structures, and a layer should always be left in front of the foil. Together, we merely butt the webs.

Insulating ceilings follows a similar principle:

1. If from the side of the attic the wooden ceiling is covered with expanded clay, sawdust or reeds, it is enough to lay 1 layer of "Penofol" type B, making gaps with the help of purlins.
2. Type C material can be glued directly to the concrete ceiling, foil side down. Next, mount the frame for fixing the GKL or other finishes.
3. When you need a capital insulation of the ceiling, use the attic scheme, only without a membrane and external battens. Install a frame made of beams or galvanized profiles, insert the main insulation between them, then underlay the bottom with polyethylene foam type A.

If "Penofol" is the only material insulator (which isn’t always the case), select a maximum material thickness of 8–10 mm. When combined with other insulators, a sheet that is 3–4 mm thick performs admirably. Detailed information about the mansard roofing device shown in the video:

Laying the foam on the wooden battens

Because there is an air layer, this option works much better than just gluing to a flat surface. Additionally, the opening permits air to pass between the insulation and the ceiling, removing accumulated moisture and averting condensation. The tasks are completed in the following order:

1. Fix the foamed polystyrene to the surface with wooden laths 15-20 mm thick. The distance between the bars – no more than 100 mm. Glue the joints of the sheets with reinforced tape. Make sure that the bottom of the laths are in the same horizontal plane.
2. Fix the second layer of foamed foil to the bars from below using a furniture stapler. In this case, sheets with double-sided foiling are usually used.
3. Assemble the second row of purlins.
4. Install decorative finishes, e.g. MDF panels, plastic wool, etc.д.

Combining foam with mineral wool

The majority of the time when insulating in this manner is spent making the battens and lining them up horizontally. Plasterboard sheet hangers made of metal can be used in place of wooden laths if the ceiling is not level. The following is the sequence of steps for using foam foil to insulate the ceiling:

• Assemble a frame for mineral wool boards on the ceiling.
• Install a fiber insulator in the cells.
• Fasten the foam foil to the laths with self-tapping screws.
• Seal the joints of the insulation by any method.
• Cover the frame with gypsum cardboard sheets.
• It is possible to use two layers of foam foil. The first fix the foil to the top, the second – towards the room. This option will protect mineral wool from moisture.

Installation of Penofol outside the building

Installing insulation from the outside is considered the most efficient method of insulation, according to experts. Penofol’s perforated modification helps to remove moisture and steam from the building freely. Furthermore, the material offers excellent sound insulation and shields the walls from wind and precipitation. The conservation of usable floor space is a significant benefit of installing insulation externally.

Floors and slabs

We would like to alert you right away that you cannot insulate an existing wooden floor without first opening it up. To install reflective thermal insulation correctly, the finish coating must be removed in order to reach the lags. A simplified plan that replicates the roof’s insulation can be used to insulate the ceiling:

1. 8-10 mm thick rolled "Penofol" type B is rolled across the lags. The material is shot to the beams so that 2 layers are formed at the top and bottom.
2. The second sheet is laid butt-to-butt with the first, fixed with a stapler, and then glued with metallized tape.
3. The subfloor and the finish flooring are laid on top of the joists.

Important nuance. It is possible to roll the roll directly under laminate or linoleum flooring, theoretically. However, the aluminum coating won’t function, negating the purpose of reflective insulation entirely.

The second option is to place a foil layer below the uneven floors of the one-sided "Penofol" type A. Note: There is a sizable cavity beneath the thin insulator that is equal to the lagging’s width. Make sure to place mineral wool, about 10 to 15 cm thick, between the beams if the room is above a cold basement or unheated space. Remember to leave a 20–30 mm layer between the minwool and the polyethylene foam.

Typically, the aluminum coating’s ability to reflect radiant heat is indicated by the red arrows.

How to insulate a wooden house with foamed polystyrene

An outside wooden house that is properly insulated with foam encourages the transfer of the dew point outside the wooden wall’s perimeter, protecting the structure from the elements. Why does this occur? Due to the uneven freezing of wooden walls (particularly when the material thickness is at issue rather than the wall’s perimeter).

The only thing that distinguishes negative temperatures is their exterior, which encourages the growth of moisture and has a destructive effect on the structure. Furthermore, wood gradually takes in and retains moisture, which causes the substance to start growing mildew.

Installation – sequence of actions

Eliminating large cracks is another step in the process of insulating walls with foam that you can do yourself. The wood is thoroughly caulked for this purpose. Similarly, the walls eliminate the cracks that frequently arise from operation.

purlins

Subsequently, a batten is erected to guarantee regular facade ventilation. If the house is built of logs, purlins are not necessary, but gaps must be left for condensate to escape through. They are arranged in close proximity to the mansion’s foundation and eaves.

Vapor barrier

Applying a layer of vapor barrier is the process of creating foam insulation from the exterior. You must purchase a vapor barrier film, which is not difficult to do as there are many options available.

The primary consideration is the material’s one-sided permeability, which only permits moisture to flow in one direction.

The film is made glossy on one side and rough on the other for ease of use. The rough side of the film is mounted against the wall. The joints’ surfaces are insulated and overlapped.

Waterproofing

Next comes installing a waterproofing layer and insulating the walls from the outside using foam-foil. It is arranged similarly to the first layer, with the rough side facing the wall and the back being incapable of allowing moisture to seep through.

Cladding

The organization of the completed "pie’s" exterior facing is necessary for the exterior foam-foil insulation of the house. Almost any cladding material (brick, siding, wagoning, etc.) can be used to achieve this. д.).

Setting up a ventilation gap is crucial. Siding is used, ventilation gaps are organized by packing on the laths of the thin board frame, and foam insulation was completed to insulate the walls from the outside.

Insulation

Using double-sided foil tape to glue the joints is another method of insulating the walls from the interior using foam-foil. To organize a thermal screen, the insulation is laid with its foil side facing the direction of the room. The insulated space is then sealed and "sewn" with gypsum cardboard boards.

It is important to keep in mind that condensation between the wall and insulation cannot be prevented, so internal lining foam or any other type of insulation without external insulation should only be installed in the most dire circumstances.

Scheme of internal insulation of wooden walls

The process of insulating the interior wooden surface of walls follows a specific sequence of steps. In other words, in this order:

1. Installation of vapor barrier system.
2. Installation of the thermal insulation layer.
3. Arrangement of waterproofing.
4. Boarding.

Prior to adding insulation to the interior wooden flooring in the house, it is imperative to ascertain the exact type of wood used for its construction.

The fact that the properties of various wood species’ thermal insulation vary. As a result, the price range for insulating these kinds of walls can vary.

The first step is to look for and eliminate flaws like chips and cracks. Direct wall insulation must come first, once all flaws have been found and the scope of necessary future work has been established.

Should the external insulation prove insufficient, one must resort to a combined solution. Internal wall insulation is completed, usually in conjunction with the arrival of the warm season.

General requirements for insulation materials

The majority of the time, modern synthetic insulators are used to insulate the walls within wooden houses.

They only have two basic requirements, which are high fire resistance and high thermal insulation properties indicators.

Ecowool is currently one of the most popular materials used for insulation. Applying a layer of thermal insulation creates insulation.

Schematically, insulation of a wooden house from the inside

This layer has a high degree of density adhesion to the wooden planks. This material completely fills in all the holes and spaces, allowing air to pass through the building’s interior walls.

Because of its unique structure, ekovata allows moisture to easily permeate the entire space between its fibers without impairing the material’s fundamental properties of thermal insulation.

Because of this, the area between the fibers never gets wet, and there is never any condensation or too much water vapor on the wall’s surface.

Due to its moisture-permeability and antiseptic content, ecowool prevents mold and fungus from growing on its surface.

When it comes to insulating wooden walls internally, this material is fantastic. The house’s walls are still able to "breathe" at the same moment.

In addition to vapor barrier Izospan B, Minwata is also intended to address issues with wooden wall insulation and aid in the creation of efficient thermal insulation.

The top qualities of minwool are all present, but it will be challenging to prevent moisture from penetrating the material’s internal structure when using it as an insulator for wooden walls.

This may considerably impair the offered insulator’s ability to provide thermal insulation. The installation of this material is directly tied to the concurrent development of a vapor barrier film layer that will serve as a hydraulic barrier.

In addition, it is imperative to ensure the existence of internal ventilation, as this will aid in the removal of surplus moisture.

Penoplex insulation has also become quite popular in recent years. This insulator’s high elasticity and lightness indicators are among its greatest advantages.

Installation tips

The foam insulator needs to be installed correctly for all of its beneficial qualities to be revealed. There are various installation nuances for every type of finishing. For instance, there is one work sequence for interior wall insulation and another for exterior wall insulation.

Interior work

Building a wooden lath frame is the first step towards insulating the walls from the inside. This design will enable you to maintain a tiny gap (roughly 20 mm) before and after the insulation, which will aid in demonstrating the foam insulator’s technical features. Indoors, foil foams up to 5 mm thick are most commonly used; however, more costly material up to 10 mm thick can be glued if needed.

To make it easier to lay the foam roll in the resulting strips, the frame’s laths are mounted at a spacing a few millimeters wider than the roll’s width. However, the step should not exceed 1000 mm.

Testing all wiring and communications is crucial after the frame is installed. They can be further insulated if needed, just be careful that the foam foil’s metal foil does not come into direct contact with the wire.

You can use a construction stapler to quickly secure the material to the frame if extra insulation is not required. Polyethylene foam should not be stacked on top of one another as this can cause vapor and condensation to run down the joints.

It is necessary to mount the second frame, leaving a 20 mm layer of free space, after the insulation is laid. Plasterboard can be used to cover such a frame, and then it can be painted or wallpapered using adhesive. It is also advised to read the brief installation and operation instructions that are displayed on each roll. Foam-foil can be directly mounted on the uneven floor beneath the screed to insulate the interior floor while allowing you to apply your preferred coating on top.

External design

Foamed polystyrene is placed on a specific adhesive to help with insulation of exterior walls and communications. Self-adhesive insulation that is more expensive should be used by beginners as it is easier to work with than the standard varieties. The preparatory steps involved in installation include cleaning the walls’ surfaces, lightly sanding the concrete, and applying antiseptics to the wood. It is best to install during dry, warm weather.

Just like with interior insulation, building a wooden frame is the first step in installing foam insulation outdoors. To increase waterproofing, use special aluminum tape to seal the joints of the laid material after fastening the laths to the rough wall using regular self-tapping screws.

Ordinary nails or staples should not be used because they will weaken the insulating material’s integrity and let moisture through the rough wall even with the insulator installed.

Remember to leave space for air, both in front of and behind the foam, when you lay the roll material. If material was cut incorrectly during the work process, it is simple to repair with tape that is fastened to the seams. It is possible to lay the foam in two or three layers for improved heat retention.

The outer frame, to which various finishing materials are attached, must then be mounted. Usually on corrugated board or insulated surface mounted siding. An open balcony or loggia can be insulated using a similar algorithm; the only thing that differs is that the foam panels are installed in layers that overlap in these situations.

In summary, the introduction of this kind of material to the market made a lot of problems easier to solve. It has special indicators of heat, hydro, vapor, and noise insulation despite only having a thickness of 5–10 mm. Granted that the selection of insulation is contingent upon the particular circumstances and individual inclinations of the purchaser, foam continues to lead the construction material market due to its extensive array of benefits.

Cost

The companies listed below manufacture foil insulators for the Russian market:

• Jermaflex;
• Isolon;
• Penofol;
• Tepofol;
• Foil-isol;
• Ecofoil.

Firm	Characteristics	Price
Jermaflex	1.2 m x 8 mm	80 rubles./м²
Isolon	Type A, thickness from 2 to 10 mm, length 1 m	140-260 rubles./м²
Penofol	Type A, thickness from 3 to 20 mm, length 36-12 m (the thicker the thicker the shorter the meter)	53-278 rubles./roll
Tepofol	Type A, thickness from 2 to 10 mm, length 2.5 m	40-1200 rubles./roll
Foil-isol	Type A, thickness 10 mm, length 15 m	1650 rubles./rulon
Ecofoam	Type A, thickness from 2 to 15 mm, length 25-10 m	780-1030 rubles./roll

Tips from professionals

When it comes to floor insulation, the most mistakes are made when utilizing "Penofol." As a result, home masters must understand the proper way to foil "Penofol" on the ground. It can be used in these two situations:

1. when protecting the floor pie from basement dampness with simultaneous insulation;
2. under the infrared floor heating.

Insulation of type B is utilized in the first instance. Here is the technology:

• polyethylene film is overlapped on the prepared concrete base to exclude any contact of aluminum with concrete;
• butt joints on the film is laid "Penofol" At the same time it is necessary and from below and above to glue the seams with metallized tape, which is difficult, but feasible;
• A framework for decking is mounted on top of the insulation;
• gypsum fiberboard sheets are laid on the ceiling;
• screed is poured.

Considering this technology, one can conclude that it is simpler to forego the insulation and all of the labor involved in doing things the old-fashioned way. However, in the second scenario, things are simpler in the first place, and there isn’t a choice:

• "Penofol" of type A is laid on the floor base. Polyethylene film is not necessary, t.к. concrete is in contact with polyethylene foam;
• A "warm floor" is installed;
• Sheet materials are laid on top of the heating system;
• the substrate is laid;
• laminate or other floor covering is laid.

Technical Characteristics	Recommendations for Use
Foam Foil	Useful for insulating walls, floors, and roofs. Provides thermal insulation and moisture resistance.
Foil	Reflects heat radiation, enhancing insulation efficiency. Can be used in combination with other insulating materials for improved results.

Foam foil insulation is a flexible option for improving the insulation and heating efficiency of your house. Because of its technical features, it’s a great help in keeping comfortable indoor temperatures while also saving energy. It efficiently blocks heat transfer, keeping your home warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer thanks to its reflective foil surface and foam core.

The simplicity of installation is one of the main benefits of foam foil insulation. Foam foil insulation can be quickly and effectively installed in a variety of areas of your home, including walls, attics, and crawl spaces, whether you’re handling the job yourself or hiring a professional. Because of its flexibility and light weight, it can be used in a variety of spaces and structures.

Furthermore, the benefits of foam foil insulation last long after it is installed. It lessens the strain on your heating and cooling systems by forming a barrier against heat gain or loss, which may result in energy savings and cheaper utility bills. Its longevity also guarantees that it will continue to function well for many years to come, offering steady thermal performance.

It’s crucial to adhere to usage guidelines when adding foam foil insulation to your home renovation projects. To optimize its effectiveness during installation, make sure there are no gaps and ensure a tight seal. Furthermore, seeking professional advice or consulting the manufacturer’s guidelines can offer important insights into maximizing its performance and getting the intended outcomes.

To sum up, foam foil insulation is a very useful and effective way to improve your home’s insulation and heating. Its long-term advantages, installation simplicity, and technical features make it an excellent investment for enhancing indoor comfort and energy efficiency. For many years to come, you can create a more sustainable and comfortable living environment by following its usage recommendations and making the most of its capabilities.

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