Floors in a private house: choice of material and how to do

The floors are a major factor in creating a warm and energy-efficient home. They serve as the framework for your everyday activities in addition to making a substantial contribution to the overall insulation and comfort of your house. Selecting the appropriate flooring material can significantly impact longevity, upkeep, and energy efficiency.

The process of choosing the ideal flooring material can be intimidating due to the abundance of options available, ranging from contemporary laminate to classic hardwood and everything in. Budget, lifestyle, and aesthetic preferences are just a few of the variables to consider when making this choice. To help you narrow down your options and make sure you choose something that suits your needs, you should also take the climate and the particular needs of your household into account.

To get the most out of the material you’ve chosen for your floors, you must be aware of the correct installation techniques. Knowing the procedures can help you make wise decisions and guarantee the longevity of your floors, regardless of whether you choose to hire professionals or do the installation yourself.

We’ll look at a variety of flooring options for private homes in this guide, weighing the benefits and drawbacks to help you make an informed choice. We’ll also go into detail about the installation procedure and provide pointers and guidance to make sure the flooring project goes smoothly. At the end, you’ll have the know-how and self-assurance to select the ideal flooring material for your house and install it precisely.

Select the floor base and method of building a good sex

Many people attempt to tackle the serious and responsible task of floor arrangement in their own homes, country cottages, or other locations on their own. Giving a clear answer on how to make a floor in a private home is problematic, though, unless one has studied the features of the technology. It is crucial to consider not only the design aspects but also the materials and the process of putting in the floor base.

Setting up sex in a country home is a serious and responsible task.

The following laid options and floor options are the most prevalent in the private sector:

  • wood. The main advantages of wood flooring are environmental friendliness and increased thermal insulation characteristics. At the same time, wooden boards are characterized by increased hygroscopicity and need effective waterproofing protection. The wooden floor is laid on the support beams located above the surface of the soil, on wooden bars, resting on brick cabinets, as well as on strips laid on a concrete or cement melt. Build a wooden floor is easy. The planned base is distinguished by durability, maintainability and attracts attention with the original texture. The correct selection of material for the plank base determines the performance characteristics. It is important to use dried wood, moisture concentration in which does not exceed 12-14%. It is not allowed to use boards with defects in the form of cracks, falling knots and chips. The material uses coniferous rocks of trees, as well as solid wood. Impregnation of boards with antiseptic compositions provides the durability of the structure;

The two primary benefits of wood floors are their increased thermal insulation and environmental friendliness.

  • concrete. It surpasses all types of flooring in the strength and exploitation of the life of the strength and resource. When performing a concrete screed of increased height, an additional strengthening of a concrete massif with a reinforcing grate is performed. It prevents the cracking of a monolith. At the same time, the concrete base has a serious drawback – increased thermal conductivity. To ensure the comfortable temperature of the concrete floor and reduce heat loss, the insulation is necessarily laid in the form of granular expanded clay, foam or extruded polystyrene foam. A waterproofing material is placed on the insulation layer on top, and then a concrete mixture is poured. It is important to use a fresh solution of concrete made on the basis of Portland cement of the M400 brand and above. To improve the appearance and increase thermal insulation, the concrete base is combined with wooden;
  • The floor base in the form of a dry screed. The specified type of floor has gained popularity relatively recently and is a progressive solution in the construction sector. A dry screed is also called a bulk floor or flooring of a floating type. This type of foundation attracts the simplicity of formation and the accelerated rate of work. A dry screed is made on a planned basis, which is waterproof and then lags. Small -fractional expanded clay, slag or sifted sand is covered in the space between the lags. Then you need to tighten the bulk composition and evenly distribute throughout the area. At the final stage of the construction of the dry screed, the OSB slabs for the floor are laid or the sheet plywood is installed. The floor screed with expanded clay is durable and prevents heat loss.

You should consider the benefits and drawbacks of the floor base’s design when deciding on installation techniques and material for the next sex.

Concrete gender floor bases are inferior to all other types.

The draft floor is ready

Cotton wool made from fiberglass as well as cotton wool made from basalt rocks (stone cotton wool) may be used inside the frame of the wooden floor. Products with relatively low densities (starting at 23 kg/m3) are appropriate for installation in such systems since there is no pressure exerted on the insulation. Rolls of cotton wool mats can be used without any problems because thermal insulation has a purely horizontal orientation and no slide is anticipated.

It should be noted that building films are required in addition to mineral wool for proper functioning. Prior to installing the insulation on the black binder, the waterproofing canvas is positioned on the first floor and the floors above the wet rooms. Typically, reinforced polyethylene is different from regular polyethylene in that it has greater strength and durability.

Crucial! No matter how effective the hydro and vapor barriers are, all wooden ceiling and floor components need to be treated with impregnating compounds that have an antiseptic effect. This will help prevent the spread of rot or fungus in the event of an accident and can include ozone 007.

Using mineral wool to warm the floor

On top of cotton wool to prevent the emission of fibers into the room and protect against external moisturizing the insulator from the side of the room – the insulation layer is covered with special membranes, including superdiffusion, allowing cotton to always be in dry form. There is one very important point here: the final flooring of a wooden floor should not touch the insulation or some of the films with the back of the way, otherwise there will be problems with the ventilation of the underground and it is possible to reduce the durability and effectiveness of the structure. Therefore, it is necessary to create a ventilation gap with additional remote elements. This can be a draft flooring (floor) under a sexual downted board, lags, or a counter -attack up to 40 mm thick, if the floors are laid right on the beams of the ceiling.


In a private home, floors can be either wooden or concrete, depending on the materials used. The selection of flooring material is primarily influenced by the composition of the walls. The floor is composed of wood if the walls are as well. The floors will be made of concrete if the walls are brick or concrete. Often, a wooden coating is applied on top of the concrete base. Any kind of device must have every layer precisely aligned; otherwise, an uneven surface will result.


A wooden floor is a good thermal insulator and is also environmentally friendly. When properly waterproofed, a floor like this will endure for many years. The way the wooden floor is constructed depends on the technologies employed.

  • on the lags on the ground;
  • on supporting pillars;
  • On a cement screed.


Concrete floors are thought to be the hardest and most resilient. The cement monolith will transform into an impenetrable barrier to fungi, mold, and other microorganisms in the function that the concrete surface performs. The disadvantage of using concrete is that it cools down quickly and doesn’t retain heat at all, so extra floor insulation is required.

Preparatory work before laying

Ascertaining the soil’s condition is advised prior to installation and styling method selection. For instance, you can lay it directly on the ground in some lag areas, but first you should lay the waterproofing underneath them. A wooden floor can last over a dozen years thanks to this kind of device. Adding more sand and gravel is preferable in certain situations, but occasionally even this is insufficient. Thus, the subject matter video:

Since there are no explicit guidelines regarding adherence to room features and styling techniques, it is advisable to select the option that works best in all circumstances, including highly humid areas.

Even now, a private home’s best bet is a wooden floor over a concrete screed or cement-sandy surface. Such a floor can serve as waterproofing or a stiff foundation. However, soil planning will remain the primary focus. The soil is well tamped to allow for the regulation of building material consumption. Additionally, you can already fill the sand with a thickness of at least 20 mm on tamped soil. Waterproofing, which can be roofing material or cellophane, is applied on top of the sand.

Wooden floor on the screed

The entire work stage is, in theory, a little simpler than the first. Here, even markings must be made on the concrete, which should then be covered with insulating material. Wooden base bars should be attached at intervals of 70 centimeters, and insulation should be added as needed.

The highest grade polished finish or any other desired coating is applied to the top.

Choosing the correct flooring material for your home’s interior design is essential for comfort, longevity, and energy efficiency. Every option has pros and cons, so weigh them carefully before choosing between the easy maintenance of tile, the warmth of hardwood, or the durability of laminate. Furthermore, the way your flooring is installed can have a big influence on how well it insulates and retains heat in your house. You can design a comfortable and functional living space for your family by researching different materials and installation methods.

Line parameters

We make floors in a private house using wood

Because of their beautiful appearance and eco-friendliness, wooden floors are frequently chosen. In addition to selecting the wood, you should also think about the design in order to guarantee the dependability of the plank flooring. Wood floors are built using a variety of techniques. In this instance, lags composed of a wooden beam are an essential component of the construction.

The following bases support the laying of lags:

  • beams recorded to the walls of the building;
  • columnar supports of brick or blocks;
  • concrete screed reinforced with reinforcement.

Depending on what the client wants, the builders can create a two-layer wood base that is laid over a black floor made of concrete or uneducated board, or they can create a single-layer wooden floor. Let’s delve into the technical details of how different wooden floor options are constructed.

Because they look good, they favor wooden floors.

We put the floors with our own hands in a private house on the ground on the beams

Novice developers are curious about how to create wood floors from the ground up. They refer to the scenario in which the building’s walls are already constructed, the roof is in place, and the ground beneath the structure is just regular soil.

Therefore, the following algorithm is used when building a plank floor on a beam basis above the soil:

  1. The surface layer of soil with a thickness of 8-10 cm is removed.
  2. Stones are extracted and horizontal surface is ensured.
  3. A sandpaper mixture is covered with a layer of 10-15 cm on the soil surface.
  4. Snuffle is aligned, spilled with water and compacted.
  5. A layer of waterproofing from a sheet roofing material or polyethylene is laid.
  6. Lags are placed with the interval of 0.6-0.8 m between wooden bars.
  7. Lags are attached to the foundation walls using steel plates.

During installation, it’s critical to check for horizontal lag and make the appropriate level adjustments. Use wooden supports for this. On the ready basis, Paul from Striped Boards is mounted.

The lags have fixed wooden floors.

There are several ways to install a plank base, including the following:

  • with additional thermal insulation of the floor. The technology of arranging a wooden floor provides for the possibility of laying thermal insulation material into the space between the lags. Minvata, expediary granules or polystyrene foams are used as insulation. After insulation to the lags, boards of the final floor are attached;
  • without insulation of a wooden coating. With this method of installation of the floor, insulation is not used. Boards that perform the functions of the draft floor are attached to the upper plane of the supporting beams. On the draft base, finishing boards are laid in the second layer or the finish of the finish coating in the form of OSB plates or moisture -resistant plywood is laid.

To account for temperature variations, 20–25 mm of space should be left between the foundation base and the lags when working.

How a warm floor of wood is made on supporting pillars

Many people who have chosen to build their own floors in private homes prefer a wooden structure that is formed on support racks. If it is necessary to raise the floor’s surface, remove floor base distortions, and increase the space between walls, the installation method that has been specified is used. In fact, there’s a good chance that loads will cause the lags’ integrity to be violated in the absence of extra supports.

If required, use support racks and raise the floor’s surface.

Use the following steps when installing a wooden floor on extra concrete supports:

  1. Remove the fertile soil layer and plan the surface.
  2. Determine the coordinates of the location of the support pillars.
  3. Remove the soil according to the markings and prepare pits for supporting pipes.
  4. Fill the bottom of the pits with a mixture of sand and crushed stone.
  5. Level a spatch and tamp it thoroughly.
  6. Collect the formwork of the desired height around the perimeter of the pits.
  7. Lay the roofing material inside the formwork for waterproofing.
  8. Gather the reinforcing bars and place in the formwork.
  9. Pour a concrete solution and compact it.

Four weeks are needed for the concrete to solidify. Once the concrete has reached its operational strength, take down the formwork and place the necessary number of bricks or blocks on the concrete surface to support them. Cover the surface of the formed cabinets with a roofing material that will keep moisture from the soil from affecting the wooden beams.

Paul on the pillars of support

The following sizes should be tolerated when working:

  • interval between supports equal to 1-1.2 m;
  • the distance from the foundation to extreme cabins, which is 0.4 m;
  • the location of the base of the pits from the zero mark at 0.4-0.5 m;
  • the thickness of the crushed stone-sand pillow-0.1-0.15 m;
  • The section of the column supports, which is 0.4*0.4 m or 0.5*0.5 m.

Maintaining control over the upper plane of the supports at the same level is crucial. This will create a level floor and stop distortions. Recall that the technology permits the execution of a composite lag in which the bars are connected on the central support with a 0.15–0.2 m overlap.

Tips for laying sex boards or plywood on a concrete base

As a floor base, concrete or cement screed is frequently utilized. Large interior pieces made of concrete or cement arranged atop a wooden floor. Completed, a floor made of plywood or tile that is affixed to concrete lags will consistently provide thermal insulation for the room’s floor and can support a greater weight.

As a floor base, concrete or cement screed is frequently utilized.

When building a wooden floor on top of a screed, adhere to these steps:

  1. Comers the concrete base and lay out cracks.
  2. Pour, if necessary, self -leveling mixture.
  3. After hardening the mixture, bed waterproofing material.
  4. Mark the surface of the base for laying the lag.
  5. Follow the holes in concrete, fix the studs to fix the planks.
  6. Drill holes in the bars corresponding to the coordinates.
  7. Install the strips on the stilettos and check the horizontal.
  8. Remove parts of the studs protruding for the upper plane of the bars.
  9. Fill the space between the leaf or granular heat insulator.
  10. Mount the finish coating of boards or plywood to the lags.

Remember to leave gaps to account for temperature changes between the lag’s end plane and the room’s walls.

Requirements for the floor in premises of different types

The purpose of the rooms must be considered when selecting a coating type and material. Standards for flooring in various rooms:

  • Hallway. A large amount of dirt accumulates here. Floors are subject to high mechanical load. You need to choose strong moisture resistant coatings, which are easy to care.
  • Kitchen. The room is exposed to hot vapors, dirt often gets on the floor in the kitchen. Coatings should be moisture resistant and easy to wash.
  • Living rooms. For them it is necessary to select environmentally friendly coatings that maintain heat.
  • Bath and bathroom. In these rooms, increased humidity. The floors in the bathroom and bathroom should be moisture resistant and not to deteriorate from the effects of household chemicals.

The device of a single floor from wood

Understanding the question of how to create a floor in a private home is possible with the guidance provided below, subject to the sequence in which all actions are completed.

  1. A single flooring will be performed on poles, which, as a rule, are mounted during the construction of the main structure. At the same time, the interval between the pillars should be kept at the level of 80 cm. Subsequently, beams with a thickness of 10 cm are laid on each of the supports.
  2. On top of this design we lay a net of lags, which should be a section of 5×5 cm. If the board prepared for the floor has a section of 3 cm, then the distance between the lags should be withstanding 50 cm. Put the system under the level using special wedges and firmly fix with nails.
  3. With your own hands, a black floor is laid on this design from an uneducated board, and a flooring is laid on top of this layer, as a rule, linoleum or laminate.

Since these floors are intended for temporary or utility buildings, thermal insulation is not a major concern for them.

But in residential buildings, the gaps between the lags should be filled with foam or polystyrene foam before the draft floor is laid. Positive attributes include construction speed and negligible cost.

With your own hands, concrete floor on the ground – step -by -step instructions

One of the most common ways to arrange the floor on private homes’ first floors these days is to lay a concrete coating directly along the ground instead of putting in any floors. Examine first the circumstances in which this kind of work ought to be performed. Let’s proceed to the explanation of the primary steps involved in constructing a concrete floor on soil.

Two floors, oneconcrete, one

The device of the concrete floor on the ground

When combined with soil, concrete coating is made up of multiple layers of various materials, each of which serves a specific purpose. The soil itself makes up the top layer. It needs to be well-compacted and dry. Sand and gravel pillows are placed on top of it; these are required for further surface leveling and the dispersion of spot loads throughout the region. Additionally, these layers aid in lessening the impact of soil heaping that occurs during temperature fluctuations. There are instances where a simplified concrete floor is made with nothing more than sand covering the ground and no gravel cushion.

Diagram of concrete flooring

Soil-based ground structures

Crucial! It should be known that only under specific circumstances—that is, when the groundwater table is at a depth of at least four to five meters and the Earth is not covered—is a concrete floor permitted on the ground. Additionally, there should be little soil allowance and movement at the construction site; otherwise, the coating will quickly lose its usefulness.

Additionally, a black concrete coating is applied if a heavy load on the floor is anticipated. On top of it is a film for insulation, steam, and waterproofing. High density extruded polystyrene foams typically play the latter role. A finished concrete screed that is at least 30 to 50 mm thick and is supported by a reinforcing grid is built on top of them.

Ground level concrete floor

Preparation and conduct of measurements

The construction site needs to be ready after the necessary materials and tools are purchased. First, clear it of any debris that could obstruct your work, such as stones, plants, broken bricks, and other unnecessary items. Additionally, if the walls have already been built, mark the location of the room’s lower doorway, as this will be the level of your future sex. If required, add more or less finish coating material, such as parquet, tiles, or linoleum.

Now, you have to draw a continuous line marking the concrete screed level around the room’s perimeter. For ease of use, start it one meter above the lower edge of the doorway and repeat this template below, marking the point where the floor ends and is completed. Subsequently, use a shovel to dig out all of the layers of the coating you made.

Soil compaction, adding a layer of sand and insulation

We will now go from preparation to a detailed explanation of how each layer of the ground’s concrete floor is arranged.

Step 1: Use a shovel and rake to roughly level out the soil so that it is spread out throughout the area. If you see stones in it, take them out.

Step 2: Cover the ground where the concrete floor will be installed with sealant. This is typically accomplished with a manual dimmer, which has a "snake" surface that taps the ground evenly and laboriously. Do this step two or three times if needed.

The idea depicted in the picture states that using a manual tram to avoid the area beneath the future concrete floor

Crucial! If there is no factory production manual trambler available, it can be made independently using makeshift materials that are readily available on the premises. This can be accomplished with a metal profile that fits both a piece of manual log work and a fairly thick and heavy steel sheet.

Step 3: Get the sand ready for the filling. A pillow for a concrete screed should be made from premium material with as few unnecessary inclusions as possible. Sand should be evenly distributed and poured onto the area where the floor will be constructed. Ten centimeters is the minimum allowed layer thickness.

Sand distribution at each location

Step 4: Using the rake, more evenly distribute the sand over the area.

Rakes are used to distribute sand.

Step 5: Use a mechanical or manual tramper to go through a "snake" along the whole site of the future gender, just like you would with soil compaction.

Step 6: Add water to the sand to make it denser so you can tamp it even more.

Water is applied to the sand.

Step 7: Reenter the sand pillow and go through the whole area with the trambler. Repeat this process as needed until there are no more noticeable shoe traces; only then will the material be sufficiently compacted for a concrete screed.

Re-sealing a sand cushion

Counseling! After tamping, align the sand pillow’s horizon with a wooden board that is reasonably even or with a rule to get the best results.

Orienting the beach cushion

Step 8: To create a layer of steam and waterproofing, cover a sandy pillow with polyethylene or any other suitable film. As a result of the film’s "neighboring" segments being connected to one another, which should be at least 5 to 10 cm apart, there is less chance that moisture or water vapor will pass through this layer from the soil to the concrete screed.

Laying polyethylene film

Counseling! If the concrete floor arrangement on the ground is done with the walls still not up and there is a lot of wind at the location, use boards or other objects to temporarily shield the film from blowing away.

Boards are used to secure the film.

Step 9: Apply a layer of high-density polystyrene insulation over the waterproofing and steam layers. Working with it is generally not too tough because the individual panels are simple to adjust to one another. They can be cut with a regular building knife with a retractable blade if needed. When installing the insulation, keep in mind that transverse seams shouldn’t be on the same line because the rows of plates are connected using the same principle as laminated bricks.

The picture provides an illustration of how two rows of tilts of polystyrene insulation foams should be joined; the following row overlaps the preceding row’s transverse seams, albeit slightly offset.

Pour concrete coating

Following the construction of the floor’s auxiliary layers, we will go over the detailed explanation of how to install the concrete screed, which is the most crucial component of the construction.

Step 1: Before covering the insulation, prepare and install a reinforcing mesh. Lift it slightly so that it stays in the bottom half of the concrete layer with the aid of plastic subpoons; the reinforcement will support the stretching loads of the concrete slab on the elastic foundation of the sand pillow and insulation.

Placing a grid that is reinforced

Step 2: To fix the beacons, knead a fairly dense cement solution. A standard steel or aluminum profile that has been cut to fit the width of the space can be used to create them. Every lighthouse has multiple fixed points, where a small quantity of dense solution is present at each location. The distance between beacons ought to be shorter than the rule’s duration. The ideal measurement is 70 cm.

Lighthouses are fixed in place using cement mortar.

When positioning beacons, make sure to use the construction level and the required value to determine their location.

Step 3: Watch for the beacons to dry out in the cement mortar.

The solution must then be allowed to dry.

Step 4: Mix concrete; make sure the brand is at least M150. Try to use as little water as possible at the same time to get a high-quality material with few microcracks and cracks during the solidification process. If you use a mixer to knead concrete, you can buy special plasticizers at any big-box store. These are not unnecessary.

Kneading the material in a mixer

Crucial! When kneading concrete, some masters substitute a liquid detergent for specialized plasticizers on a budget.

Step 5: Create the kelma’s primary leafing by placing the mixed concrete between the beacons. Next, using the corresponding lighthouses as a guide, create as even a surface as you can using the rule. Work with tiny concrete sections. Once you have finished with one of them, carry out the same steps again: lay out the material, smooth it out with the cell, and then use the rule to smooth the surface.

Concrete complies with the regulation.

Step 6: Use plastic film to cover the concrete to prevent it from drying too quickly. This lowers the chance of many small cracks or microcracks that are nonetheless noticeable. In some circumstances, a small amount of water may be used to hydrate the concrete screed. Apply a layer of self-burning bulk floor after the mixture has strengthened and hardened to create a perfectly level surface that can be decorated in any way.

Crucial! She washes a certain amount of cement outside while using an excessively large amount of water in the concrete. It forms a light crust on the surface during the drying process, which is also referred to as "cement milk." It needs to be cleaned, or the coating underneath will be less resilient and long-lasting.

Video – floors on the ground with your own hands

Video – Swimming Paul"s screed. Types of solutions, filling methods, nuances and subtleties


Heat and naturalness on a camping floor With these floor materials, you can make a really unique coating. Because cork tree bark is used to make products, they are entirely natural and safe for the environment.

Also see: Building multi-story floors in a private residence

Among the benefits, it is important to mention:

  • Comfort when walking barefoot.
  • High level of sound insulation.
  • Speech and Nemarous coating.
  • The cork is well protected from moisture exposure.
  • Material is easy to care.
  • A wide range of color solutions and textures.

Among the drawbacks, a brief service life and low mechanical strength stand out. Additionally, these floors cannot be referred to as budgetary because the traffic jam requires the subsequent application of varnish.

The secrets of the warm flooring device

The use of warm water floors is becoming more and more common. It can be the foundation for keeping comfortable living conditions or for heating. It depends on the typical heat loss, the local climate, and the specific architectural elements of a private residence. They don’t work well with wooden floors because the tree doesn’t conduct heat well. Cement screed is the best choice. If the base is a sand pillow, the first basement floors are covered by a concrete floor with water heating.

The base must be prepared; it should be level and free of indentations and recesses before you can install heated floors by hand. Five millimeter drops are allowed. Apply a leveling layer of small crushed stone with a grain size of no more than 5 mm if defects are higher or deeper than 1-2 cm.

There are two ways to operate the warm floor device: spiral and snail. The first version uniformly heats the entire surface. In colder climates, the spiral provides optimal heating. As a result, this zone is where the first hot branches are mounted. The required pipe length is determined based on the drawing scheme.

One whole pipe is used for the floor that receives heat. If the room is large, multiple heating contours are installed; however, each contour should not be larger than 100 m in order to ensure sufficient pressure for the coolant to circulate.

Use of 16 mm diameter metal-plastic pipes is preferable. A heater is installed on the base with a minimum thickness of 5 cm to provide thermal insulation. The insulating layer is created by 10 cm if the base is the earth or if the floor is below the cold room. The heat insulator is covered with a metallized film that serves as a reflective screen to reduce heat losses. Additionally, it needs to be protected, so 75–100 microns of polyethylene are placed on top. Construction tape is used to secure the seams where film stripes are present on the overlap.

Fasteners such as plastic brackets, metal mesh, and strips are used to secure pipes. Following the laying process, the collectors are connected, and the system is filled with coolant at a pressure of four bar. To account for expansion, insulate the floor from the walls thermally, and remove cold bridges that allow heat to escape, damper tape is wrapped around the perimeter.

If the strips and brackets were used as fasteners, the reinforcing mesh is installed before concrete is poured on top of the pipes. The thickness of the concrete screed is 5 to 10 cm, and the solution should be at least 3 cm above the pipe. Surface cracking can occur when there is insufficient thickness or excessive heat loss. Although the concrete will hold, a plastic film covers it to keep the humidity at a normal level. 28 days to complete the screed.

General principles of wooden floors

The lags are always directly laid upon by the floor boards; however, the lags themselves can be stacked on supports, which are typically brick, wooden, or metal poles, as well as on a concrete or even earthen base. Seldom, but still, a technique is used where the ends of the lag are fitted into the walls on either side of them or placed on ledges that are specifically designed to be close to the walls and function without the need for intermediary supports. It is nearly impossible to install them correctly on their own, and blocking wide spans in this situation requires lags of a very large section and weight.

The method of installing wooden floors on a concrete foundation is essentially the same as installing floors with reinforced concrete plate overlaps in an apartment. Installing a floor on the ground floor of a private home presents a far more difficult situation because it is highly desirable to set up a dry and ventilated subterranean space in this instance. The strength and longevity of the completed floor are significantly influenced by its presence, particularly in situations where groundwater is heavily arranged.

How to make a wooden floor in a private house with your own hands instructions

These days, you can easily build a country house out of a variety of inexpensive, sturdy materials that are readily available on the construction market, but these materials aren’t always in demand. Modern people frequently strive for their home to be as "natural" as possible and prefer that the majority of the raw materials used in construction be natural.

One illustration would be the floors of a private home, which are frequently constructed of treated wood. While installing wooden floors in a country home is not difficult, it is best to become familiar with the finer points, which we will go over in-depth in this article.

Necessary tools and materials

Construction level, marker, ruler, square, and roulette are needed for the task. A hacksaw or circular saw is needed to cut wood. Concrete mixers, shovels, a metal profile for lighthouse installation, a rule, and reinforcing mesh are used in the production of a concrete base.

For wooden products, antiseptic impregnations and antipypees are utilized. In addition, the structure’s design calls for insulation and waterproofing film.

Wooden base – practical and comfortable

Long ago, floors were arranged using wood. It offers several noteworthy benefits, the most notable of which are as follows:

  • small thermal conductivity (optimum temperature in summer and winter);
  • environmental friendliness (modern people pay special attention to this characteristic);
  • ease of installation (make a wooden floor with your own hands is relatively easy);
  • High maintainability and durability (with regular care and slight repair, the wooden base serves for centuries).

Sturdy wood for floors

It is advised to lay wood or oak wood flooring in a private residence. These trees are thought to be the hardest to damage. However, they are rather expensive. Therefore, fir, spruce, larch, cedar, and pine can be used as a compromise to create a wooden floor in the home. Selecting the proper bars and boards is crucial; they must be thoroughly dried. For flooring purposes, a maximum moisture content of 12% is permitted in wood.

A private house’s tuberous surface with gaps and cracks will replace the even foundation with a larger board indicator, or "story." When building a private home, a wooden floor is either one or two layers that you can create by hand. In the first instance, a second, so-called "draft" base device is offered. The material chosen for the heater will determine how it is constructed.

The additional "black" base device

It is preferable to lay a continuous wood base if expanded clay or slag is being used. A 40–50 cm space is kept between each individual black floor board when using mineral wool as insulation. A vapor barrier covers every component of the "preliminary" base, and it is advised to place a thin piece of plywood on top. The chosen insulation material was only placed after that.

The wooden floor is a must on the lags, regardless of the number of layers and the construction method. These are bars that are installed on the concrete base or inserted into the walls of the building. When you have a small space in which to install a floor covering, it is possible for your smile to blend in with the walls. Additionally, wood floors can be installed using a method on "floating" support pillars. We’ll discuss her later.

Material Installation Method
Hardwood Installation by nailing or gluing to subfloor
Laminate Click-and-lock or glue-down installation over underlayment
Tile Set in mortar over cement backer board or plywood subfloor
Carpet Installation with tack strips and stretching, or direct glue-down method
Vinyl Glue-down or floating installation over smooth subfloor or underlayment

Selecting the ideal flooring material for your home is a big choice that will affect its overall beauty, energy efficiency, and comfort levels. All flooring options, including hardwood, laminate, tile, and carpet, have pros and cons of their own. When making a final decision, it’s critical to consider aspects like durability, upkeep requirements, insulating qualities, and budget.

The kind of flooring material you choose can have a significant impact on insulation, helping to keep your home at a comfortable temperature and save energy expenditures. Good insulation qualities are provided by materials like laminate and hardwood, which keep your house cooler in the summer and help you keep the heat in during the colder months. A quieter and more energy-efficient living environment can be achieved by further improving insulation and soundproofing with the right underlayment.

Additionally, when selecting flooring for your home, the installation procedure is a crucial factor to take into account. Certain materials, like laminate and engineered hardwood, offer simple do-it-yourself options for individuals with basic carpentry skills, while others, like laminate, may require professional installation due to their complexity. No matter what material is selected, getting the best performance, longevity, and insulation out of it depends on careful installation.

In summary, choosing flooring for your home requires careful consideration of a number of factors, such as maintenance requirements, installation requirements, durability, and insulation qualities. For you and your family to enjoy for years to come, you can create a comfortable, energy-efficient, and aesthetically pleasing living environment by weighing these factors and selecting the option that best suits your needs and preferences.

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Michael Kuznetsov

I love to create beauty and comfort with my own hands. In my articles I share tips on warming the house and repairing with my own hands.

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