Floor insulation with expanded clay: pros and cons, insulation technology

Proper insulation is essential for maintaining a warm and comfortable environment in our homes. The floor is one area of insulation that is frequently disregarded. In addition to helping to keep interior temperatures comfortable, insulating the floor also improves energy economy and lowers costs. We’ll go into the topic of floor insulation in this post, with an emphasis on using expanded clay as an insulating material.

Expanded clay, sometimes referred to as lightweight expanded clay aggregate, or LECA, is a multipurpose material that has grown in favor for insulation-related applications in the construction industry. Expanded clay, which is made from natural clay that has been heated to expand, is a strong and lightweight material that is perfect for use as floor insulation. Because of its porous structure, which traps air, it has superior thermal insulation qualities.

The high thermal resistance of expanded clay makes it a valuable option for floor insulation. Homes can improve overall energy efficiency by reducing heat loss through the floor by installing expanded clay insulation underneath the flooring. Lower heating costs and a more environmentally friendly home can result from this.

Moreover, expanding clay insulation installation is a fairly simple procedure. Its versatile use allows it to be installed under flooring during building or remodeling projects. Expanded clay is a long-lasting and safe alternative for floor insulation because it is also non-flammable and mold-resistant.

Expanded clay, like any insulation material, is not without its limitations. Its comparatively higher cost in comparison to more conventional insulation materials like fiberglass or foam board is one possible drawback. Expanded clay insulation can have a higher initial cost, but over time, its durability and long-term energy savings can make up for it.

To sum up, expanded clay floor insulation has many advantages, such as increased durability, safety, and thermal efficiency. Although the initial investment may be higher, homeowners wishing to improve their home’s insulation may find it to be a worthwhile option given the long-term savings and comfort it offers.

Which expanded clay to use

A lot of customers don’t consider which expanded clay is best for insulating floors. Both expanded clay and expanded clay exist. However, they overlook the fact that different sizes and densities of expanded clay granules translate into variations in their thermal conductivity. Because they have thermal conductivity below, large pellets with fractions of 20–40 mm are therefore initially the most appropriate for warming the floor.

Everyone who works with expanded clay, however, encounters an unforeseen issue: a thin layer of backfill that gives way under his foot and does not support weight. Additionally, this has a thickness of 7-8 cm. If you try to switch to sand, you can achieve a dense layer of only 4 cm, at which point a dry screed stops "playing," but at that point a pillowed layer’s ability to retain heat almost completely vanishes.

Specialists observed the departure in a blend of multiple clay fractions: granules ranging in size from 5 to 20 mm in sand and gravel (marketed under the M300 brand). You can create a thick layer of expanded clay with good heat-insulating qualities by varying the granule sizes.

When insulating soil, a multi-layer pie is created: waterproofing material is applied from below, followed by a large fraction of ceramic crushed stone or gravel (crushed stone, 30–40 mm), and a thin layer of sand and osmes (up to 10 mm in diameter) on top.

The ideal fractional gravel size for warming along the lags on the draft floor is between 20 and 40 mm in size. The same percentage of insulation is found in heating mains, garage floors, roofs, and basements. Granules in the size range of 5 to 20 mm, preferably from the brands M600 or M700 (which can be mixed), are required to fill the heat-insulating screed from expanded clay concrete (floor insulation using a wet method).

Be aware that there are three different ways to heat the floor with expanded clay: dry, "wet," and combined. The articles "Technology of a wet floor screed with expanded clay" and "How to make a floor screed with expanded clay?" that are available on our website provide comprehensive descriptions of both wet and combined methods. As such, the portal’s editors felt it was improper to discuss the mentioned insulation techniques in this piece.

How to calculate?

A 15-20 cm-thick layer of claymzite is frequently used as floor insulation. You can use the Teremok program to determine how much material is needed. It is ideally simple to use and assists in automatically performing accurate calculations while accounting for norms and rules. All you have to do is input the work object’s parameters and the material you plan to use.

How to insulate?

The floor can be warmed in a number of ways:

• dry insulation (in this method, the material is poured in its original form);
• Wet laying (characterized by mixing concrete and expanded clay);
• The combined method (the first layer is covered with dry material, after which a mixture of concrete and expanded clay is poured).

It’s crucial to follow these steps in order to insulate the wooden floor:

• Dismantling of the flooring;
• surface preparation;
• waterproofing;
• installation of rails;
• backfill of expanded clay;
• installation of flooring.

Initially, the top layer is disassembled to the lag level. The boards are taken out of the room and removed. Subsequently, the lags are measured by the level and carefully inspected. Broken, crooked, or malformed bars are swapped out for new ones. It is possible to install new software.

The next step is to get the surface ready. Check it and clean it of trash.

It is advised that you wipe any tiny cracks you find. It’s crucial to seal any deep cracks with construction foam or to cover them with cement mortar.

Examine and adjust the joints and corners. After that, you must use the soil to improve the waterproofing material’s adherence to its surface. Sand or waterproofing materials (polymer waterproofing mastic, cement-bitumen composition, bitumen-polymer mixture, liquid rubber, roller materials) are then applied to the surface.

In order to waterproof the floor, a film must be spread throughout the whole surface. It’s crucial to use construction tape or staplers to secure the lags. Simultaneously, the film’s tight fit against the bars and the deepening from below are crucial. The installation of new rails will come next if you are dismantling the bars. The corners that are screwed with screws help to level and reinforce the new lags. On the prepared surface, new rails are installed.

After that, they mix large and small granules of expanded clay while they sleep. Filler should ideally be applied from right to left along walls. To ensure that there are no empty spaces, it is crucial to fill the entire area.

An even layer of raw materials is required. To do this, provide beacons for them to follow. Particles are left whole after the material has been carefully compacted after filling.

A waterproofing film is placed over a layer of expanded clay and reinforced with tape and staples. Diffusion, super diffusion, metallization, and waterproofing are among the membrane types. Expert builders suggest getting a waterproofing film to warm the floor because it makes up for expanded clay’s primary flaw of looking like parchment.

The floor is covered in a black plywood covering the protruding insulation. The last flooring is then put in place. Use the same algorithm, adding the stages of reinforcement and screed, to insulate the floor beneath the concrete base.

Installing a metal mesh with large cells on top of the insulation serves as reinforcement. Its key characteristics include boosting the screed’s strength, preventing subsidence, preventing cracks from forming, and extending its life. You can use fiber-fiber, fiberglass, polymer, or metal mesh to reinforce the screed. A metal mesh is the most resilient among them.

Compact and level the surface using a screed. Cement, water, and sifted sand make up the solution. In a 3:1 ratio, combine the sand and cement and knead until a thick, homogenous mass is formed.

An expanded clay concrete screed can be created. When the black coating is uneven or raising the floor level is required, it is more frequently utilized.

Sand, cement, and expanded clay are combined in a ratio of 1:2:4, and water is added until the mixture reaches the required consistency. It takes roughly a month for the screed to dry.

Technology of insulation

Even though the bulk material laying is similar, there are some differences.

On the ground

Paul on the ground is suitable for basements and garages. If you take the right steps, these rooms won’t be overly cold in the winter.

The fertile layer should be removed, the ground should be tied, and the ground should be well compacted in order to warm the floor. Over a tamped area, a layer of sand and crushed stone is applied. As a result, the surface leveling process continues.

The insulation will shield the waterproofing from high groundwater. It ought to be placed atop a ready pillow. Next, they fill the space with expanded clay and line up so that the height is the same everywhere. Cement mortar is impregnated in order to fix the upper layer. A layer of vapor barrier comes next.

The soil insulation ends with a screed of reinforced cement. Once it has completely dried, you can install a boardwalk if you’d like.

On the lags

When warmed with expanded clay, lags provide two functions. They provide as the foundation for the draft floor while also making it easy to smooth the backfill on them.

On the lags of the concrete bases, the granular fraction is placed. The working area is first opened up to pure concrete. All imperfections are removed. Solution is applied to cracks, joints, and corners as needed. After giving the lags a preliminary antiseptic treatment, the corners are fastened to the base. The upper edges of the wooden guides are expelled in a single horizontal plane in this instance.

For waterproofing, utilize:

• Roofing material;
• Polyethylene;
• Polymer mixtures;
• Bitumen mastics;
• Rubber hydropower.

The walls surrounding the room, the lags, and the concrete surface are all subject to processing, with the wooden parts only marginally higher than the concrete surface. Concrete is primed in the case of liquid mastics to improve adhesion. If the film is used, a stapler is used to secure it to the bars. The insulation slumbers in the sinuses, leaving no empty spaces, and the height was constant throughout. A layer of vapor barrier covers Ceramzit. After that, the finish and the black floor are put in.

On the balcony

The balcony is actually a fenced-in slab of reinforced concrete that protrudes. Even in the summer, it is uncomfortable to stand on concrete. Apartment owners frequently make the decision to insulate their balconies. For this application, light granules work better than other thermal insulators.

It is not required to level the ground. What matters most is that the new floor is level. The racks are installed by the insulated concrete in order to accomplish this. Lighthouses can be fastened to the plate using gypsum or a solution. The rule’s length should not be exceeded by the space between parallel rails. The task is easier to complete the smaller the step between the beacons.

Beacons are the same height as the warm layer. A cement mixture is poured into the completed pillow. Once the top layer has solidified, form a complete screed. If preferred, a wooden floor can be installed over the screed on the loggia and a closed balcony.

In a wooden house

A common application in the private sector is expanded clay. This is understandable given that the material is so modest that homeowners can handle it independently.

The first floor and attic floors are insulated with Ceramzitis. Granular material is used in utility rooms, homes, and steam rooms to warm the floor. In the latter scenario, it is crucial to ensure that the dust created by the gravel’s friction does not enter the space.

A house made of stone or concrete has a basement or cellar and is constructed on a foundation. These kinds of buildings don’t usually have insulated floors. One cannot exist in a frame house supported by screw piles without thermal insulation. You will need to put in effort to guarantee comfort in a similar structure.

Complete floor insulation should be paid for with the money that was saved during foundation construction. The most basic roofing material, polyethylene, shouldn’t be used for waterproofing; instead, use contemporary, dependable building materials. Vapor-permeable moisture and wind-insulating membranes will provide excellent protection against negative exposure. The remaining work is completed in a manner akin to other forms of sex. A light-colored wooden home will need to have the same floor insulation installed.

Earth floor

The first floor of a wooden house on stilts or with a screw foundation needs to have soil insulation beneath it. It will not be feasible to live in such a building if this is not completed. You will need to put forth a lot of work in order to guarantee a comfortable living. Therefore, thermal insulation work will be funded by the savings on the foundation. The following procedures are part of the insulation technology:

• The soil is thoroughly aligned, and then with the help of a vibration plate is trimmed;

• A layer of career gravel or crushed stone with a thickness of 10 cm is poured, leveled with a rake;
• The same thickness layer is poured on top and is also leveled;
• The sand is trimmed with vibro -fuel;
• The sand is spilled with water and is condensed again;
• The sand is given the ability to dry a little, after which roller waterproofing materials (best roofing material) are laid on top of a sand and gravel pillow. How to properly perform waterproofing work with your own hands can be viewed in the article “Waterproofing of a wooden floor”;
• According to waterproofing, a layer of expanded clay 15-25 cm thick is poured. At the bottom of this layer, it is advisable to use gravel of a large fraction (30-40 cm), close the top with a layer of 3-5 cm thick from ceramic sand and petty pellets, up to 10 cm;
• Expanded clay is aligned, and then compacted by a vibration plate;
• again waterproofing work on expanded clay;
• lags are laid, and flooring is mounted on them.

Ways to insulate wooden and concrete ceilings

Any base, including slabs of reinforced concrete, can be used to lay the material. It can be used on balconies and loggias, in any room, as long as moisture protection is offered. It goes well with porches, verandas, and black trim. Backfill is able to withstand low temperatures with ease. Utility rooms without heat do not cause her to lose her properties.

Dry way

The quickest and least amount of time-consuming choice. recommends backfilling the area that overlaps the draft floor. Although the material can be arranged in large quantities throughout the space, it will be very challenging to move. As a result, beacons or lags are put in place and release granules. The black floor was placed on top of the insulator layer, which should be at least 10 cm thick. Mounted already upon his cladding.

Stages of work

• We prepare the base. If necessary, we dismantle the old flooring. Clean, remove garbage and dust. Fat spots are erased with alcohol.
• We seal large defects and cracks, joints between walls and floor. First, the crack should be broken with a spatula, removing the crumbling edges, then clean it, removing the dust with a damp cloth. Overlap must be treated with an antiseptic. Apply the solution with a brush, impregnating the surface with it, then let it dry.
• We cover the reinforced concrete overlap with a primer tightening small cracks. Damp can be seeped from below, therefore it is recommended to waterproof the plate and interpanel seams. The easiest option is a polyethylene film laid with an overlap about 20 cm high. A more reliable solution is a bitumen -based mastic. There are modern compositions on a polymer and cement basis. For their laying they do not need a gas burner. To close the entire surface, you can use roofing rates laid on bitumen mastic.
• Before warming the floor by expanded clay in a wooden house, you need to prepare the base more carefully. We start by inspection of supporting structures. Check the condition of the beams and flooring. We clean up plots affected by mold. Clubs and chips cut or close. In case of serious damage to the part, you will have to replace or remove to repair. The natural array will quickly become unusable under the influence of moisture. To protect the fibers, soak them with an antiseptic, let them dry, then apply the varnish.
• Install the lags. If the old ones are preserved, we carefully inspect them, we remove the worthless. We set the beams exactly in level, so that their upper edges form a flat surface. Details should be treated with antiseptics and varnished.
• We mount the second layer of waterproofing. We lay a membrane or ordinary polyethylene so that they close the lags. The resulting joints we connect and glue it with special tape. Fix the material on the bars of the lag using a stapler.
• Mix two fractions so that the coating turns out to be denser. Fall asleep the resulting interior space of the crate. Be better from the wall. The number of particles in all areas should be the same. To prevent a mistake, we put the beacons. With a small distance between the bars, they are not needed. Tamp the granules and align them.
• We lay the upper waterproofing, fasten it to the lags on tape or using a stapler.

You can now begin finishing by laying a black flooring.

In addition to being used with a wooden crate, dry expanded clay can also be used as floor insulation with a cement screed.

• The backfill is leveled and covered with plastic wrap with an overlap 10 cm. The canvases are fastened with tape.
• Put a reinforcing mesh on top. It is usually not needed, but in this case the base is too soft and mobile. The grid works well for bending. Without it, concrete can crack.
• The mixture is made of sand and cement in a ratio of 3: 1. The mass should be plastic and fill all the voids. It should not be done too liquid. The solution should keep the form. Laying is carried out at a time – two layers laid at different times, they will not be able to form a single coating. A crack will appear between them.
• Cement gains branded strength within four weeks. During this period of time, the overlap cannot be loaded. The finish will have to be postponed until the knitting substance is completely setting. You can walk on the floor a week after pouring.

Necessary tools

A lot of preparatory work is needed when using dry screed with expanded clay, including laying plywood, chipboard, or GVL on top of the expanded clay material and preparing the floor’s base and installing lighthouses. To accomplish this, get the following tools ready beforehand:

• Aluminum rules: one length 2 m, the second – 1 m, since wooden does not guarantee the quality of work;
• punch;
• level;
• hydraulic level (laser level);
• roulette;
• construction cord;
• fishing fishing line;
• P-shaped guide profiles for lighthouses (they must be removed, since expanded clay will go about 2 mm, and the profiles are rigidly fixed, which will lead to time to destruction of the floor);
• screwdriver;
• screwdriver;
• electrician;
• construction knife;
• pencil;
• Construction Stapler;
• plane;
• bucket;
• shovel.

The expanded clay screed flooring technological process includes the following steps:

• preparation of the base;
• waterproofing screed from below;
• markings of the screed line and rows of lighthouses;
• Lighthouse installations;
• installation of a damping tape;
• backfill of expanded clay;
• flooring plywood, chipboard or GVL;
• waterproofing from above (work are performed in rooms with high humidity).

Installation of the damping tape

The process of preparing the base of the floor under the screed with the attachment of the dumpfer tape around the entire perimeter of the room ends. It is attached to the wall with a construction stapler or double -sided adhesive tape. It is placed at the floor level, entering 1 cm below the screed line. Many people believe that it is needed only for a p/dry or wet screed, compensating for their expansion under the influence of temperature and humidity drops, and for a dry screed, this stage of work is not necessary.
The fallacy of this approach is found for two to three weeks, when the flooring begins to rub against the wall, making creaky sounds.

Laying of GVLM plates

If there are still remnants of the legs on the screed’s surface, how can a flooring be made? There are two options: either place entire GVL sheets on the screed surface so that people can walk along them, or lay the GVL slabs (plywood or chipboard) as the scatter is filled. These bridges move to a new location as the flooring is laid.

The route from GVL.

Information: It is advised in numerous instructions to cut gypsum accommodation sheets into squares for walking purposes. This is illogical because, in addition to having to be thrown away, they will require spending family money.

GVL stands for gypsum-fiber sheet layout.

Starting from the far corner, the flooring is also laid. Using a construction knife or the slab of GVVL, a connecting edge from the side of the sheet next to the wall is removed. The sheet is placed on the surface and firmly pressed against the expanded clay with the hands. The connecting edges (locks), which hold the standard PVA, are coated with glue before the next sheet is laid.

The first layer is covered by the second. Making sure the second layer’s seams are at least 20 centimeters apart from the first is crucial.

Self-tapping screws are used to secure the layers with a screwdriver in 20–25 cm increments, both horizontally and vertically. They are fixed to the heads being completely submerged in drywall (GVL). 3.3×19 screws are the recommended size to use.

It’s important to note that the front door seams should not be marked when placing the flooring sheets.

Putty is used to seal the second layer’s connecting seams.

For those who are unfamiliar with GVL, take note. A pencil cut line is drawn on one side of the sheet to indicate the desired size. Using a construction knife, make a cut on it that is about half the thickness of the sheet. Subsequently, the GVL is positioned atop the rib and snaps with a forceful motion; the protective film is then cautiously separated from its other side.

You can start installing the floor covering as soon as the flooring installation is finished.

Be aware that if waterproofing is required on top of the screed, it is done, allowed to dry, and only then is the floor laid.

Wet laying

Involves combining liquid concrete with expanded clay. The mass that results is placed atop the beacons. The approach works particularly well for bases that have large variations in height. The primary disadvantage is a reduction in the insulating capacity of the concrete granules.

Preparatory stage

You should first buy the necessary quantity of material. To determine the amount of expanded clay required for floor screed, a quick calculation must be made.

Preparation of the solution

It is necessary to immerse the entire expanded clay in water to ensure that it is saturated with water before beginning to lay the screed. If this isn’t done, the hydration process won’t be finished because expanded clay granules, which have the hydrophobicity property, can be removed from the solution. It turns out to be fragments of expanded clay concrete combined with bits of unrelated cement and expanded clay granules, rather than a monolith.

An expanded clay that has been moistened is put into a concrete mixer. The predetermined amounts of sand and cement are added. Add the liquid soap and water. Water is added while streaming continues until a uniform consistency is reached.

Cement is applied to the clanels of expanded clay after they have been stirred until they are entirely gray.

The granules’ surface shouldn’t have any brown patches if the ratios of each component are chosen correctly.

Calculation formula

V = s*h, where S is the room’s area, H is the backfill layer’s height, and V is expanded clay in cubic meters.

For example, if the area of the room is 20 m2, and the height of the backfill is 0.1 m, then the calculations will be as follows: 20 m2*0.1 m = 2 m3. That is, taking into account these parameters, two cubic meters will be required. For work on the manufacture of a draft floor, it is recommended to use granules of the M400 brand, which are placed in one cube exactly 400 kg. Therefore, it will be necessary to buy 800 kg of material, which will be 16 bags of 50 kg. Moreover, it is desirable that the granulate is multi -caliber – with a diameter of 5 to 20 mm. Fractions of different sizes will create a more dense and even embankment.

In a similar manner, the amount of cement mixture is determined.

Examine the condition of the ceiling after clearing the debris off of its surface. If there is an old coating, use a punch to remove it; everything that is left will be removed afterwards. A construction vacuum cleaner will be used to remove any dust from the cracks and potholes before a primer is applied to ensure deep penetration.

We now use a specific putty for concrete based on epoxy or polyurethane resin to fill in the trouble spots. We will reapply the soil after it dries, but in two layers this time.

Marking

Let"s go around the entire perimeter of the floor and, using a water level or laser leveling, determine the highest angle. We measure 150 cm up from it, making the corresponding label on the wall. We will draw horizontal lines from it along all walls, using the same tools. Now we have basic markings, from which it will be possible to repel the level of the leveling coating. Suppose its height is 13 cm, of which 10 will be on expanded clay, and another 3 – on a cement mortar. We measure 137 cm down from the base line (150-13 = 137) and make a marker mark. Through this point we will draw another line, parallel to the basic. We will perform the same operation on other walls. Thus, we have a marking that determines the height of the filling.

How much dries

After 28 days, this kind of screed fully gains strength. You can then install any type of flooring after that.

On the fourteenth day, ceramic tile installation can be completed.

Several sources state that mounting the laminate is acceptable after two weeks. There is one but, though. Uneven surface texture will result from expanded clay clamps rising to the surface. A laminate substrate does not make these flaws obsolete. We’ll have to work her hard.

In this instance, the solution’s shrinkage may allow lighthouse components to appear on the surface. Grinding is not possible in this situation. Mixtures that self-level when poured over the screed’s surface provide the solution to the issue. Additionally, drying takes time. You can therefore only resume work after a month.

Though this is one of its drawbacks, the process for leveling the screed’s surface is highly costly.

Step -by -step process

• Prepare the ceiling, freeing it from garbage and dust. If necessary, we close up defects.
• Strictly set the beacons in level. The operation is carried out in the same way how it is done when laying a conventional leveling screed.
• In portions, mix the porous filler with a cement-sand mixture. There are no exact proportions, approximately 1 part of the filler for 2 parts of the solution is taken. The main criterion – all grains should be moistened with liquid concrete.
• We lay out the resulting mass between the beacons using a trowel. The top is immediately leveled with a long rule.
• The concrete will dry after two days, but it will be possible to lay the finish coating on it no earlier than in a month.

Combined method

The insulation is aligned and is dozing off inside the crate. Next, use cement to secure the top layer of the material. When the prepared base is totally dry, the concrete screed is applied. The benefit of this technique is that expanded clay’s insulating qualities are preserved. The filler can be put directly on concrete or the ground, like in a country home.

Stages of work:

• We dismantle the old coating, remove the garbage, close up defects and cracks.
• We lay waterproofing under the insulation. It can be a membrane either a film or liquid isolation. In any case, the material should close not only the floor, but also the lower part of the walls by the type of "box". After that, at the level of the future black coating, we fix the damper tape.
• We set metal beacons. Aluminum T-shacks are perfect. Put them strictly in level, fixing them on the solution.
• Mix the filler of two fractions for better density. We fall asleep with this mass space between the beacons, paying special attention to the joints and angles. Gently trim the granules, the most sealing layer of insulation.
• We carry out reinforcement. We install a large -scale metal grid on top. It should be without dents and sharp edges.
• We lay the screed right on top of the backfill. We apply a sand-cement mixture, align it with a long rule.

The final coat can be applied once the solution has dried fully.

Based on the reviews, expanded clay performs comparably to contemporary porous and fibrous panels as a floor insulator. The application of any of the techniques outlined, given that proper execution ensures efficient defense against the cold.

Warfly insulation

You will require the following for insulation:

• nail;
• hacksaw or electrician;
• roulette;
• marker or pencil;
• building level;
• shovel;
• hammer;
• electric drill;
• self -tapping screws;
• sand;
• waterproofing film or coating materials;
• Dampfer tape.

One possibility is to set up a wooden floor on a concrete foundation.

Step 1. Dismantling of coating

The bars are left in place if they are in good shape and do not have any flaws or deformations. Individual bars are replaced in cases of minor injuries, and everything down to the concrete base is removed from very old, shaken, and rotting lags.

Everything should be removed to the concrete base if the lags are very old, shaky, and rotting.

Step 2. Surface preparation

Additionally presents joints at the floor and wall perimeters. A thick layer of well-packed sand covers the surface. Sand is not required while applying coating waterproofing.

Step 3. Waterproofing

Spread out on the floor, polyethylene or a unique membrane covers the material’s edges with walls by 7 to 10 cm; in this instance, the lags are also hidden beneath the film. In the event that an entire canvas is lost, fragments of film cover the gap and use construction tape to seal the joints. Waterproofing on the bars needs to be secured with a stapler, making sure to evenly distribute the film in the spaces created by the lags.

When applying coating waterproofing, the mixture is brushed or roller-applied to peeled concrete, capturing the walls up to 15–20 cm in height. The protective layer is placed on top of the lags in this instance. Coatings that are suitable include bitumen-polymer mixtures, liquid rubber, bitumic mastic, and mastic based on cement and polymer. Apply the mixture in two to three layers; the waterproofing process takes time because each layer takes about three hours to dry. A damping tape is fixed at the top of the black floor, at the end of the wall’s perimeter. This will prevent the screed from deforming and cracking when temperatures change.

Step 4. Installation of rails

It is therefore necessary to install new lags if they were disassembled completely. To accomplish this, take sturdy wooden rails or a beam, cut it to the desired size, prime it with an antiseptic solution, and allow it to dry. A wooden floor frame should be at least 10 centimeters high. The space between the other rails is between 0.5 and 1 meter, with the extreme rails attached at a distance of 2-3 cm from the wall’s surface. To ensure that not a single detail protrudes from the horizontal plane, each rail must be aligned level with one another and parallel.

With the assistance of metal corner plates, one side of which is next to the tree and the other to the floor’s base, the rails are fastened to the ground with screws. Extreme fasteners are spaced two to three centimeters from the rail ends; all other fasteners are spaced fifty centimeters apart.

Step 5. Filling expanded clay

Blend the small and large expanded clay, then take a nap in between the guide rails or lags. To ensure there are no gaps, the insulation in the corners is carefully straightened with the hands. The expanded clay tried not to crush the granules as it tamped after filling the entire space. The waterproofing is applied on top and secured with staples.

Step 6. Installation of flooring

After packing the heater that protrudes from the insulation with a black floor made of plywood, chipboard, or boards, the finish coating is applied. With a knife, trim the film that protrudes beyond the perimeter, and cover the joints with skirting boards.

Insulation for concrete base

Standard base preparation is carried out when insulating the floor beneath the screed: the old coating is removed, cracks are sealed, and the surface is dust-free. Subsequently, a film or liquid waterproofing is applied to the base.

The film is being created on the walls because the joints encircling the floor need to be sealed. At the level of the future screed, the latter is fastened to the damping tape. You can now begin installing insulation.

Step 1. Installation of lighthouses

Metal lighthouses are the best, and T-shaped aluminum rails work best. For the beacons, knead a small amount of cement or gypsum solution.Then, using the first rail, place it beneath the wall across from the doorway in accordance with the solution. If required, make sure to verify where the guide level is pressed into the solution or, alternatively, lifted. The beacons should be spaced out between 0.5 and 1 m, with a maximum height of 10 cm.

Step 2. Filling the insulation

The area between the beacons is filled with a mixture of expanded clay fractions that smooths the rule or a piece of plywood. In the places where voids can form, such as the corners and joints, extra pouring should be done. The expanded clay is then gently tamped to prevent damaging the granules.

Step 3. Reinforcement

Over the insulation, a metal mesh with large cells is placed, with retreats of 4-5 cm from the walls all the way around. The grid shouldn’t have any bulges or dents with sharp edges sticking out of them.

Step 4. Making the screed

To make screed, combine one part cement and three parts sifted sand; thoroughly mix with water to achieve a uniformly thick consistency; then, portion the mixture onto the floor in between the guides. Use a long rule to drive the screed, following the beacons and clearing the excess solution. It is now necessary to wait for the concrete to completely dry before laying the flooring.

Ceramziton -concrete screed proportions

The proportions of expanded clay concrete depend on the required strength if its composition is known. It is not necessary to use a premium brand of cementiton concrete screed for homes and apartments. Sufficient M100-M150. Strength won’t be in demand, and higher will be more costly. Cement, sand, and expanded clay should be mixed in the following proportions for floor screed:

• M150: 1*3.5*5.7
• M300 1*1.9*3.7

The amount of material used to create one cubic meter of expanded clay concrete

Depending on the kind of screed you plan to use, water is added. In the traditional "wet" solution, water is used in a similar manner to concrete. Roughly half of the water is going on if they make half -dry.

Ceramzitton screed: material proportions and usage per cubic meter

The expanded clay, or aggregated clay, absorbs moisture quickly, which makes the expanded clay concrete mix unique. Therefore, it is essential to knead small portions and lay out right away so that the solution does not dry out. It is best to lay out or leave the previous portion while kneading the next. The alternative is to knead the volume all at once and level it until you get a grasp.

Calculation of the number of materials

You will need to buy the materials yourself if the expanded clay concrete screed is made independently. By calculating their number, you can determine the area that will be covered by the screed as well as its average thickness. After adjusting this data, determine how much expanded clay concrete you require. Additionally, you can find the consumption of each component by volume and brand.

Let’s examine the illustration. Allow it to lay out a 56 square meter screed of expanded clay concrete that is 7 cm thick. We start by converting 7 centimeters to meters: 7 cm, or 0.07 meters, is this. The volume of the necessary expanded clay concrete can then be found: 3.92 m³ = 56 kV.m. * 0.07 m. In other words, nearly 4 cubic meters are needed.

Explorers: material consumption per cubic meter

You can obtain information about one cubic meter from the table above. Class B7.5 (brand roughly M100) or B10 (M150) expanded clay concrete for screed. One cubic meter of the M150 brand, 0.8 cubic meters of expanded clay with a density of 700 kg/m3, and 420 kg of sand will be filled with 430 kg of cement, according to data from the table. The materials needed to make four cubic meters of the solution are four times larger: 3.2 cubes of expanded clay, weighing 700 kg/m³, 1680 kg of sand, and 1720 kg of cement.

Expanded clay is indicated, as you can see. This is due to the possibility of varying humidity. As a result, cubic meters are used to measure it rather than kilograms. By the way, when calculating the water content, it is important to consider the humidity of the expanded clay and sand.

Independently?

If you make a screed from expanded clay concrete in the apartment, you will have to lift it all to the floor, and then knead. Believe me, it"s not easy. And then still need to be laid. Far from a rainbow prospect. Therefore, many prefer to order a ready -made composition at the factory. You can calculate what the purchase of the material will result in and compare with the prices that the factories request. The difference is often not so big that it is worth being tormented. Of course, with a small volume – to one room – to find the finished material is hard. But it is already real to order several cubic meters.

Costs per cubic meter for completed expanded clay concrete produced in compliance with GOST 25820-2014

We can talk about any additional requirements you may have (like needing to increase elasticity or extend the deadline before grasping, for example). However, this will result in a price increase. It is also worthwhile to talk about delivery costs. It may always be included in the price, or you may have to pay extra. Talk about the areas where serving the solution will be required as well. Additionally, the price varies based on height.

In this article, we delve into the ins and outs of insulating your floors with expanded clay, exploring both its advantages and drawbacks. Floor insulation is crucial for maintaining a comfortable indoor temperature and reducing energy costs. Expanded clay, a lightweight and durable material, offers excellent thermal insulation properties, helping to keep your home warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Its porous structure also aids in moisture regulation, preventing issues like dampness and mold. However, it"s important to consider the downsides as well. While expanded clay is effective at insulation, it can be costly upfront, and its installation process may require professional assistance. Additionally, it"s not the most eco-friendly option compared to some alternatives. Understanding both the benefits and limitations of floor insulation with expanded clay can help you make an informed decision about improving the energy efficiency and comfort of your home.

How lighthouses are exhibited?

The apex is chosen as a reference point. The "main" beacon is placed on it; it is at least 6 mm high. Others ought to be on par with it. Cement or alabastr solution is used to fix them. If only they were stable on their feet. Everything ought to be finished in this instance swiftly enough.

How to use hydraulic levels to create markings

Mark the proposed screed edge on the walls using any kind of level. Along the marks, lines are drawn; coloring thread is typically used for this. It is crucial to establish connections! Lighthouses split the entire base into sections of one meter in width, with a line serving as a guide. In the future, aligning the layer of expanded clay is simple.

Installing a lighthouse in a sand-cement mortar using a self-tapping screw support

You should consider the height of the finished coating in adjacent rooms when marking. This is essential to prevent needless rocks. In addition, the existence of wires, catwalks, and other should be considered. A mixture can shed expanded clay for a more dependable lighthouse installation. Out of the two bags (50 kg) per square meter, a 4 cm layer will form.

Video – how lighthouses are exhibited

Recommendations when using expanded clay

The subtleties to be aware of when warming the expanded clay floor with your hands are as follows:

• If the heat -saving effect is a priority, then dry expanded clay is used. Dry pillow is better kept heat.
• The technology for the execution of the dry method depends on which layer of expanded clay for floor insulation is sufficient in specific conditions. If the thickness of the pillow is large (more than 10 cm), then it is worth pouring two layers, dividing them with GKL sheets. plywood, etc.D. This performance will ensure stability of the coating.
• To fix the lighthouses to the solution, you can add gypsum or alabaster – this will speed up the setting and allow you to start work on the backfill of expanded clay immediately after the display of the guides.
• The use of granules of different sizes provides the best clutch and, accordingly, greater strength.
• Reinforcing with a metal mesh of the expanded clay layer increases the reliability and strength of the structure.
• The final strength of the expanded clay-concrete screed reaches after 4 weeks, so do not expose it to excessive loads at once, despite the fact that it freezes literally on the second day.

Either aligning the apartment’s concrete foundation yourself or insulating the wooden floor with expanded clay are cost-effective options. They can be used to add eye-catching interior design elements and a stunning background for home movies and photos to an expensive decorative coating.

Pros	Cons
1. Excellent thermal insulation, keeping the floor warm in winter.	1. Initial cost might be higher than other insulation materials.
2. Lightweight and easy to handle during installation.	2. Requires professional installation to ensure proper coverage and effectiveness.
3. Environmentally friendly and made from natural materials.	3. Limited availability in some regions, may require special ordering.
4. Resistant to pests, mold, and moisture.	4. Can settle over time, reducing its insulation properties.
5. Long-lasting solution with minimal maintenance.	5. Not suitable for areas with heavy loads or high traffic.

Expanded clay insulation for your home’s floors has many advantages, but it’s important to consider any potential disadvantages as well. An important benefit is increased energy efficiency. You can save money on your heating bills and make your home more comfortable by stopping heat loss through the floor. Expanded clay is also an environmentally friendly and sustainable insulation material, which is why many eco-conscious homeowners choose it.

The longevity of expanded clay as a floor insulation material is another benefit. Expanded clay has a longer lifespan and is more effective against pests, mold, and moisture than some other insulation materials. This implies you won’t have to worry about regular maintenance or replacement and can benefit from a well-insulated home for many years to come.

But it’s important to think about the possible disadvantages of using expanded clay insulation. One issue is that, in comparison to other insulation materials, it is comparatively expensive. Many homeowners discover that the long-term energy savings outweigh the higher initial investment. To ensure correct placement and efficacy, expanded clay insulation installation can also be labor-intensive and necessitate professional expertise.

Expanded clay insulation might also not be appropriate for all types of floors or homes. Because of its bulk, it can significantly increase floor weight, which could be an issue for some buildings or remodeling projects. Furthermore, in extremely cold climates, expanded clay insulation might not offer enough thermal resistance, necessitating the use of additional insulation for best outcomes.

To sum up, expanded clay floor insulation has many advantages, such as increased durability, sustainability, and energy efficiency. But, it’s crucial to balance these benefits against possible disadvantages like cost, installation difficulty, and suitability for the climate and structure of your house. In the end, you can decide if expanded clay insulation is the best option for your unique requirements and situation by speaking with a qualified insulation contractor.

Video on the topic

Keramzit was not helped by overdating

Ceramzit floor screed. All stages. Repair in Khrushchev

Ceramzit. Warming by the floor with expanded clay. Expanded clay screed.

Ceramzit excellent insulation

Ceramzite insulation of the attic and walls