Features of external and internal finishing of walls made of arbolite

Taking care of the walls is essential to designing a warm and energy-efficient home. In addition to offering structural support, walls are important for insulation and aesthetics. Arbolite has become a more popular option for wall construction in recent years because of its strength, ability to act as insulation, and versatility in finishing. Making educated decisions for your home can be aided by knowing the special qualities of arbolite walls, whether you’re thinking about finishing the exterior or the interior.

Made of sand, cement, lime, and aluminum powder, arbolite, also referred to as autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC), is a lightweight and eco-friendly building material. Its exceptional thermal insulation qualities stem from the cellular structure that is formed during the manufacturing process, which makes it perfect for preserving comfortable indoor temperatures in both hot and cold climates. Arbolite also provides soundproofing qualities, is pest- and fire-resistant, and makes a home safer and quieter overall.

Arbolite walls provide a variety of options for external finishing that can improve the facade of your home in terms of both durability and appearance. Applying a smooth or textured render—which can be tinted to achieve the desired color—is a common option. As an alternative, you could choose cladding materials that have a more traditional or modern look, like stone veneer, brick slips, or timber panels. Appropriate preparation and application methods are crucial to guarantee a durable and weather-resistant exterior, regardless of the finish type selected.

Arbolite walls provide a blank canvas for internal finishing, allowing you to design the mood and aesthetic you want for your house. You can choose from a range of options, including paint, wallpaper, tiles, or decorative panels, depending on your preferences and financial constraints. Remember that specific primers or adhesives might be needed for arbolite walls in order to guarantee that finishing materials adhere properly. Additionally, when choosing finishes for high-humidity areas like kitchens and bathrooms, take into account elements like moisture resistance and ease of maintenance.

The choice of external and internal finishes for arbolite walls can have a big impact on the overall look, feel, and functionality of your living space, whether you’re building a new home or remodeling an old one. Understanding the special qualities of arbolite and looking into the different finishing options will help you design a home that will satisfy your aesthetic tastes and improve comfort, longevity, and energy efficiency for years to come.

Advantages and disadvantages of plastering arbolite walls

An effective design that shields facades from the elements, such as rain, snow, hail, wind, heat, and severe frost, is stucco finishing.

While plastering fully protects the walls from water, it also permits the facades to "breathe," allowing the room’s natural ventilation to continue unhindered.

The following are reasons why plastering arbolite facades is advantageous:

• Waterproofing;
• Thermal insulation;
• Durability and resistance to mechanical influences;
• Ease of application;
• Noise insulation;
• A wide range of mortar types and color solutions;
• Repairability;
• Environmental friendliness;
• Wear resistance;
• Resistance to temperature fluctuations and frost.

One of the drawbacks mentioned is the coating’s comparatively short service life, which requires replastering after 8 to 10 years. Decorative plaster and silicone-based mixtures are an exception, with a potential service life of several decades.

Facade arbolite blocks

Arbolite block facade

Dimensions: 20*30*50 cm

Dimensions: 20*30*40 cm

33 / 41 pieces in 1 2 m.

Arbolite block facade

Dimensions: 20*30*50 cm

Dimensions: 20*30*40 cm

33 / 41 pieces in 1 2 m.

Arbolite block facade

Dimensions: 20*30*50 cm

Dimensions: 20*30*40 cm

33 / 41 pieces in 1 2 m.

Arbolite block facade

Dimensions: 20*30*50 cm

Dimensions: 20*30*40 cm

33 / 41 pieces in 1 2 m.

Pros of arbolite

Arbolite is made by vibro-pressing a blend of chemical additives (plasticizers for concrete, antiseptics, porosity regulators, etc.), specially prepared wood chips, and cement mortar. Materials with densities of 500–600 kg/m3 and compressive strength classes B 1.0, B 1.5, and B 2.0 are primarily used in low-rise construction (for one-storey buildings).

Masonry blocks are typically 200 × 300 × 600 mm in size. Additionally, U-shaped beams and lintels and partition blocks measuring 500 x 300 x 140/150 mm are available for purchase; certain companies can also create wall panels in various sizes upon request.

Arbolite block walls that are 300 mm thick have a heat transfer resistance (R) of roughly 2.7 m2 – °C/W, which means they nearly satisfy the middle zone of Russia’s requirements for thermal protection of buildings as stated in SP 50.13330.2012. Arbolite is generally comparable to foam concrete in terms of basic thermal performance, and it is even slightly less expensive than leading brands of autoclaved gas silicate (approximately 4500 rubles per 1 m3 including delivery). Arbolite block walls are excellent at both transmitting steam and attenuating the amplitude of variations in the relative humidity of the air in a room. A chainsaw, "alligator" electric saw, or hacksaw with big teeth can easily cut through the material.

Wood concrete holds fasteners better than foam block, which is a significant advantage. It makes it easier to install hinged and overhead structures, such as windows, doors, mauerlat, and purlins for siding or other cladding.

Be mindful of the chip size when purchasing blocks. It has to be about 40 × 10 × 5 mm and satisfy GOST 19222-84. Coarser chip blocks may cause considerable shrinkage and be too weak, whereas finer chip blocks have a higher coefficient of thermal conductivity.

Energy-efficient homes are built using fixed formwork composed of chip concrete slabs (Velox technology), in addition to insulated hollow blocks.

Nuances of choosing the exterior finish

When choosing what to cover the external walls, consider the region’s climate, the kind of insulation being used, and the facade’s intended use.

Experts advise abiding by the following guidelines:

1. For rainy, damp areas, it is better not to use block-house and analogs of wood. Residents of cold regions should abandon metal siding in favor of thermopanels or particleboard.
2. Walls insulated with minwool can be clad with siding, block house or wagoning. The least suitable option – plaster. Wet facade is applicable under foam plastic and its derivatives.
3. If the main purpose of cladding is decoration, the choice of material depends on the personal preferences of the homeowners. If with the help of cladding it is necessary to additionally insulate the building, it is better to use thermal panels and curtain facades (siding, fiber cement boards).

The frame house’s exterior is finished using a variety of materials. Thermal panels and particleboard sheets are the best options in terms of price-quality ratio. Costly block-house cladding will suffice in place of composite planking, and it is preferable to forgo brick facades and time-consuming wall plastering.

What to plaster arbolite from the outside

Cement, silicone, and lime mixtures are used to finish the arbolite facade. Polymer-based decorative plaster solutions are also utilized.

Cement

The most popular type of finish is cement plaster because it is inexpensive and simple to apply. It is made as a dry mixture that needs to be diluted with water (the package specifies the amounts) and mixed until it is completely smooth before beginning work.

Crucial! Instead of pouring the dry mix into a container with water to make mortar, the opposite is true.

Rough finishing and the cladding of outbuildings, garages, and industrial spaces are done with cement-based mortars.

Lime

Fine sand and lime are the basic ingredients of lime plaster, and to boost the coating’s strength, gypsum, cement, or clay are added to the mixture.

This plaster is reasonably priced, moisture-resistant, and exhibits good vapor permeability. It serves only as a rough layer; the surface is primed, puttied, and only then finished after the mortar has been applied and dried completely.

Crucial! Only a rough layer made of cement and lime is utilized in plaster.

Decorative

One option for completing the facade is decorative plaster, which adds original texture and surface relief.

Plaster for decorative facades is resilient to wear, easily withstands changes in humidity, temperature, and UV radiation. Plaster is classified into the following types based on the component used; it has a binding polymer base.

• Silicate (based on liquid glass);
• Acrylic;
• Epoxy;
• Polyurethane;
• Polyvinyl acetate;
• Acrylostyrene.

Silicone

One of the priciest plaster alternatives is silicone-based plaster, but its superior performance qualities more than make up for its cost.

Applying silicone plaster is simple, it doesn’t leak, and it doesn’t obstruct the flow of air between the environment and the room. In addition to being washable and resistant to some acids and alkalis, silicone-based mixtures have an average service life of 20 to 25 years and do not burn out in the sun.

How to insulate an arbolite house with your own hands

Almost always, we start by selecting the materials for the house’s walls and insulation at the same time. Generally speaking, an exception is limited to log homes with walls that are sufficiently thick (from 30 cm at the joints, if we are discussing the typical Russian strip); in these cases, caulking using sealant or natural methods suffices in place of wood insulation.

And given that arbolite is 80–90% wood, what is the situation with its insulation? Does an arbolite house need to be insulated, and if so, how should it be done?

In case you require a prompt response, we can say that arbolite insulation is not required.

To fully grasp this issue, however, read the article through to the end if you have the time.

Insulation of walls from the outside under siding

Insulation of walls from the outside under the siding

Types of thermal insulation under the siding

The categorization of insulation for ventilated facades on the Internet is excessively intricate. The classification of insulators based on principle types appears to be more accurate:

1. Fiber materials – minwool, glass wool and analogues.
2. Plate high porous solid materials – Styrofoam, expanded polystyrene, their varieties and analogs.
3. Other materials.

The final category should contain materials that can lower the cost of this technology but whose usage is not guaranteed by the facade system manufacturers. These are vermiculite, perlite, organic waste (from hemp fires), and other materials as thermal insulators. They are applied individually or in an experimental manner using the "do-it-yourself" philosophy.

There is a clear distinction between combustible and non-combustible thermal insulation.

The technology of the ventilated facade device is almost entirely integrated into the process of installing siding, with insulation being installed concurrently with the facade surface attachment.

The work begins with the layout and marking of the façade systems, which are installed in accordance with the project. Next, the fixing brackets are installed, on which the guide profiles are fixed and the façade elements are mounted. All facade systems use this basic installation sequence for different modifications.

Insulation material is inserted into the spaces between the brackets. Fixing the insulation in line with the project’s provided breakdown by sheet is a serious aspect of facade work. Any kind of insulation can be fixed by pressing the insulation against the wall using umbrella (mushroom-shaped) dowels. Thermal calculations should be used to confirm whether it is expedient to glue the insulation because the glue layer alters the flow of water vapor through the wall.

It’s time to finish the insulated wall with pre-mounted brackets. The siding components are fastened to guides that are installed on the brackets.

One of the most basic ventilated facade systems is siding. However, the existence of a well-designed project allows for a more effective work execution even for these basic systems.

Installation of insulation and siding using "do-it-yourself" technology

Because of the device siding’s relative simplicity, amateur builders may be able to implement it. Only a novice with knowledge of the fundamentals of spacecraft technology, beginning with the wall’s occasionally uneven surface, can truly hope for the success of such an endeavor. An amateur should understand how the aircraft is marked and checked, as well as what accuracy and deviations are permissible.

Maintaining constant control over the accuracy of the created plane is crucial during siding installation.

Amateurs would be best advised to avoid installing amateur device siding on intricate objects because doing so will eventually expose them to cumulative error and unavoidable defect on complex, multifaceted facade surfaces.

Ventilated facade from professionals

It might be interesting for novices, prospective builders, and clients to observe how experts handle the ventilated facade device and wall insulation. Experts mark up the panels without taking their time. Even with the aid of time-tested, traditional instruments like a plumb line, a water level, and cord, this procedure can be completed successfully. The task is completed much faster with modern laser devices. By marking the building’s geometry, you can identify any deviations or mistakes and make the necessary adjustments in the new siding volume.

Determining the boundary points of a plane and its fragments, as well as their realization in nature through the installation of beacon elements, is the primary PRINCIPLE of competent work on the creation of a plane. Brackets and other common fastening components are beacon elements. The space on the cord between the beacon points can then be filled. The walls can be insulated after the fixing brackets or their equivalents are prepared.

After the insulation is ready, you can install siding panels by carefully cutting the panels to fit the necessary portions and then decorating the corners, edges, and joints. When it comes to facade works, StroyGroupMontazh’s specialists are reliable because they accomplish precisely this. You can view samples of work on siding installation and facade insulation at https://spbsgm.ru. It will be helpful to observe how these professionals have judiciously utilized their working hours and how to assign tasks to team members in a way that benefits everyone.

Observe the prompt completion of related tasks:

• laying pipes for cable lines
• preparation of places for fixing lighting fixtures
• details for the decoration of doorway slopes
• details of fixing gutters, handrails, fences, exterior blinds.

A skilled installer of facade systems is a highly qualified specialist.

Plaster compositions for arbolite walls

The following varieties of plaster are advised for arbolite surfaces that need to be self-finished:

• Cement. A mixture of sifted sand and cement is suitable for standard walls with a thickness of about 30 cm. The plaster is applied with a thickness of 2 cm.
• Gypsum. Gypsum and various fillers are used as finishing material.
• Lime. The main component is lime. In this case, after covering the surface with plaster, it is puttied with primer and painted with facade paint.
• Compositions for decorative finishing. Such plasters are of different types: lime, acrylic, latex and others. Acrylic composition is considered the most convenient in work. Also decorative mixtures are characterized by high vapor permeability.

To the standard cement mortar, some experts add water-retaining additives or lime dough (approximately 0.5–1 part).

Technology of plastering arbolite

Plastering arbolite externally is a straightforward process that saves a lot of time and effort because it doesn’t require priming the base or the use of reinforcing mesh.

The two primary steps of plastering a wall are the application of mortar and the preparatory work, depending on the technology.

Preparation

Several easy tasks must be completed in the preparatory phase:

• Clean the surface from dirt, dust, grease stains, mold and fungus.
• Joints and cracks should be puttied;
• Window frames and door jambs should be protected from plaster with painter"s tape and film.

It’s crucial! Although it is possible, priming the facades is not required; ample wetting of the walls with water will suffice.

Installation of beacons (if necessary)

Plastering is done with beacons if there are surface irregularities (deviations of two to three centimeters) and if plaster is the only finishing coat. Beacons are pieces of metal profile that are removed after work and are affixed to the base using a gypsum mixture.

The intermediate beacons are positioned on a thread that has been stretched out in multiple rows between the first two profiles, which are fixed at their edges. Beacons are positioned vertically in steps of one to one and a half meters.

What you need to know when choosing arbolite blocks

Arbolite blocks are currently produced in two ways. One of them – with instant demolding. This is when the blocks are not held in molds, but are formed on a machine and stacked, usually in a single row to dry. The press-compressed wood chips tend to assume their original position and break the bonds of the cement, which has not yet set. The more compressed the wood chips, the more the geometry of the block will be disturbed. For reference – the state standard for arbolite allows changes in geometry of 5mm per one meter of the product. For the sake of experiment we tried to unmold the mold after one hour. In this process, the block increased in size by 1.5-1.8cm. Density and strength – decreased. The second method is with curing in the form of. Our production is based on this method. The block is removed from the mold after the cement has fully set. We extract after at least 15 hours. During long exposure in the mold, the bonds formed by the cement are not broken and the block retains the specified parameters as a result.
When making arbolite, a necessary condition is the neutralization of the sugars in the wood. For localization of sugars (sucrose, glucose, fructose, etc.д.) Wood is treated physically or chemically. Physical treatment involves exposing the wood to oxygen (oxidation), sunlight, heat. Chemical localization is achieved by treating wood particles with special substances to convert sugars into insoluble or cement-friendly compounds, as well as to create impermeable films on the surface of wood particles. With chemical localization, additional preservation of wood chips takes place. The most popular method is the use of aluminum sulfate or calcium chloride for this purpose. Both substances are harmless and are used in the food industry. These preparations have a great impact on the cost of finished products, but without them arbolite blocks will be a short-lived material. When buying arbolite, it is necessary to find out how the sugar is neutralized, and it is better to see for yourself directly in the workshop.

Use specialized pulverizers when making chips for arbolite. These devices generate GOST-marked wood chips. Wood processing plants’ waste wood chips are utilized by certain manufacturers. However, in terms of dimensions, it generally does not meet GOST for the production of arbolite. As such, the completed product is not eligible for GOST. Hardwood chips are better than softwood chips. It has greater water-repellent qualities and initially contains less sucrose. It is not permitted to use construction sand in arbolite composition. Applications make properties like strength and thermal conductivity worse.

Arbolite is produced by numerous companies with differing levels of quality.Considering that the price of one of the house’s primary components—its walls—represents less than 15% of the overall estimate, we should consider whether taking a chance on a product of questionable quality is worthwhile.

It is most suitable for building a bathhouse. A bathhouse built of arbolite will endure a lot longer than one built of logs or beams.

The geometry of our blocks is even.

Radiators for the heating system, hanging cabinets, and other furniture and interior design elements are simple to install in the walls. This should also be considered prior to selecting a building material.

Guidelines for installing arbolite blocks.

Perlite-based block glue is well suited as a masonry mixture. They will make the joint the thinnest and itself has reduced thermal insulation properties. You can also use mortar and any masonry mixes. Arbolite is sawn with an electric chain saw or chainsaw. Chains are usually used with victorite in this case. It is not necessary to use reinforcing mesh between the rows. The surface of the blocks is rough, and the masonry mix and mortar are similar in composition to arbolite blocks. These circumstances create favorable conditions for bonding and without the use of additional materials, and since the block of arbolite has elasticity, cracks in the walls are excluded. Mesh when plastering for the same reasons is not necessary. When using prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs as interfloor slabs, a reinforcement belt is made. Blocks with a notch are used for the reinforcement belt,

Which act as heated formwork that is fixed. There is no need for a reinforcement belt if the slab is poured on site. The reinforcement belt need not be used if wooden slabs are being used. Beams over openings can also be formed using notch-equipped blocks. Arbolite does not require extra soundproofing or insulation. The floor and ceiling’s thermal insulation should receive extra attention. Working with arbolite blocks is not difficult, even if the masonry is done on its own without the assistance of skilled masons.

Most arrolite blocks are composed of wood. An aluminum sulfate treatment is applied to wood chips. In industry, aluminum sulphate is frequently used as a food additive and for water purification, among other purposes.

Buyers who came looking for arbolite frequently tell stories about homes and farms constructed in the 1960s. When it comes to building a house, observing these structures untouched by time, and considering the drawbacks of other types of blocks, it is evident that arbolite blocks are the better option for them. Arbolite is extremely strong. Concrete slabs can be used for ceilings in homes constructed of arbolite blocks. Additionally, arbolite has bending strength, which prevents cracks in the houses.

Plaster application

You will need a trowel and a rule or trowel, if available, whose length should match the distance between the beacons (not more than 150 cm), in order to apply the plaster solution.

Arbolite facade plastering is typically completed in two steps: the rough layer and the finish layer.

The process of applying the rough layer

• Apply the mortar on the trowel with a trowel;
• Apply the trowel to the surface of the wall at an angle of 45 degrees and move from bottom to top to apply plaster to the facade;
• Thoroughly level and remove excess material.

Crucial! When beacons are present, the mortar is thrown between the profiles using a trowel layer that is no thicker than 20 to 50 mm, and it is then leveled using a rule.

After allowing the completed surface to dry fully—which could take anywhere from 24 to 48 hours, depending on the type of plaster used—the beacons are removed. Plaster is used to seal the formed defects, after which the surface is primed, dried, and finally finished.

Crucial! The beacons cannot be taken out if the plaster acts as a rough finish for a ventilated facade.

Finishing layer

Use decorative mortars or silicone-based mixtures for finishing plaster; they come in a variety of colors and have a unique look.

Using a plastic trowel, the mortar is carefully leveled and protected on the cleaned and primed base until the desired relief is formed. The putty can optionally be covered with a unique varnish or lazur once it has completely dried.

Basic process steps

In order to make applying the mixture easier for beginners, this instruction takes into account the primary stages of work. This scheme is followed when plastering walls on the inside as well as the outside. However, there are some subtleties when working with individual types, even though the side planes’ material is not very important.

Priming of surfaces

If you treat the vertical edges with a specific composition, you can increase the mortar’s adherence to the base. ConcreteContact is typically applied to smooth surfaces. Primers with deep penetration are typically used when plastering arbolite walls due to the porous nature of the material.

Installation of guide profiles

The elements are fixed to the surface once a preliminary marking has been made to determine the location.

The ability to install guide plates quickly and without the need for specialized knowledge is their primary benefit.

1. First, the side surface is inspected for vertical deviation, for which a two-meter level is applied to it. If there are depressions and bumps, they are marked with a marker.
2. Next, marking is carried out to determine the location of metal beacons. The distance between the vertical elements depends on the length of the rule used.
3. Self-tapping screws are fixed along the edges using dowels. If the plastering of the walls is supposed to be made of timber, then the fasteners are screwed directly into the side plane.
4. Before metal profiles are installed, all self-tapping screws must be aligned. To do this, usually stretched cord diagonally. This option allows the beacons to be correctly positioned.
5. After the installation of guides in the form of self-tapping screws, the profiles are fastened. Small piles of mortar are made between the fasteners. Beacons are pressed through the rule and deepened to the stop.

Be aware that the Khrushchevka’s walls typically have curved surfaces, so special attention is paid to the guide profiles’ evenness when plastering them.

Self-application of the mixture

At this point, if improving the finishing layer’s properties is not essential, the side planes are coated with a unique composition, which typically comes at a reasonable cost.

The main tool will last for a long time if water-resistant paint is applied to the wooden rule to prevent deformation.

1. Immediately after installing the beacons, you can start applying mortar to the side edges of the room. To do this, the bucket is one-third filled with water, and the dry mixture is added inside and thoroughly stirred with a mixer.
2. The ready-made composition is applied to the vertical surface using the cape method. A trowel is used as a basic tool. The layer of finishing mortar should be dense enough and protrude behind the profiles.
3. With the help of the mixture is evenly distributed between vertical beacons. Movement is carried out from bottom to top in a zigzag trajectory, and the mortar is tossed from above.

Take note! It is advised to wet the walls before plastering them if shell stone walls are to be plastered; otherwise, the finishing material will absorb moisture quickly and crack.

Grouting the surface

After the finishing layer has hardened, one last leveling is done. A wooden grater is applied to the side plane during the work and rotates in a circle to produce excellent grinding.

• Appeared irregularities and bubbles must be sealed without fail, because this is due to the fact that the main composition does not completely reach the side surface.
• When plastering the walls of arbolite is carried out, on the outside it is recommended to use a vapor-proof mixture with good moisture-resistant characteristics.
• If the differences on one plane exceed 5 cm, then it is necessary to apply the solution in two layers. The first of them is thrown on immediately without preliminary leveling, and the second is laid after a couple of days.

Technology of building a house from arbolite

What kind of technology is used to construct homes out of arbolite? It is advised to get in touch with the arbolite block manufacturer as soon as the house project is complete. Experts at the manufacturing location will assist you in selecting not only their size and form but also their quantity. Check each block carefully after accepting the order. If there are color or shape differences, this indicates a manufacturing defect, and you have the right to request a replacement.

Any building’s construction process begins with the foundation being laid. There are two ways that an arbolite foundation could be built:

• Foundation on piles, deepened by 150 cm.
• Tape foundation.

Blocks can be laid once the basement has reached a 40 cm thickness.

Is it feasible to construct an arbolite house by hand? Without difficulty! If you have a pre-made set of blocks, all you need to do is follow the basic laying instructions to put your house together like a kid. You won’t need much time for it either. For two weeks, a three-person brigade stays in a two-story house. In a week, an arbolite (box) house of one story can be constructed. Crucial things to think about when executing this:

• To ensure that the house does not lose its heat-saving properties, it is necessary to carefully treat weak points (seams, joints of walls). For this purpose, assembly foam can be used;
• wet blocks should be laid on cement. If your formwork is very dry, make the cement leaner.

As you can see, the technology involved in constructing a home out of arbolite is simple and does not necessitate the purchase of additional expensive specialized machinery (such as a crane).

A different kind of house made of this material exists. It is also not difficult to construct a house out of monolithic arbolite. Here, arbolite mixture is used in place of blocks, which you could theoretically make yourself. The prepared formworks are filled with the ready mixture. Due to the need to remove and replace the detachable formwork, this type of construction will require more time. However, since seams and joints won’t exist, you won’t need to treat them further.

The finishing phase of your home’s construction will be the last one.

What materials can be used for external cladding of the building from arbolite

If it is decided that the arbolite block facade of the house needs to be covered, a set of purlins must be installed (with the mandatory ventilation gap left).

Application of block-house

This finishing material can be given an antiseptic and fire retardant treatment to lengthen its service life and strengthen its resistance to direct UVI and other detrimental external factors.

The walls are completely covered, top to bottom. This trim leaves gaps of approximately 3 mm (to compensate for thermal expansion) between the elements to prevent temperature variations from damaging the finishing materials.

Block houses can be fastened to the purlins using clampers, staples, nails, or self-tapping screws. Using self-tapping screws with an anti-corrosion treatment is the best course of action. Drilled holes where the self-tapping screw’s flat will be recessed on the front surface of the finishing material. The block house is then fastened to the purlins. Step-by-step shifting is used to install self-tapping screws (even, closer to the groove, odd, to the stud). Following installation, wooden plugs that are seated on glue are used to close the caps. The parts that stick out should be sanded or removed.

Priming and applying a layer of paint, colorless varnish, or oil constitute the last steps of finishing. The resistance of the surface to wear and tear and abrasion is increased by periodic renewal of the paint layer.

Siding of various types is in wide demand.

Vinyl is very fire resistant, despite melting at high temperatures. The material is resistant to different types of deformations, corrosion-free, easy to install, and safe for the environment. One person can complete the installation.

Additionally, panels are fixed to the purlins. It is advised to leave a gap of 1 mm between each self-tapping screw and the siding’s surface, measured 30 mm from the cap (because the material expands when exposed to direct sunlight). By doing this, the panels’ distortion will be eliminated. Additionally, there should be a 5–6 mm space between the starter strips that are positioned next to one another.

One benefit of vinyl siding is that it comes with extra components in addition to the standard ones (like finishing sharp and obtuse corners).

Installation of this facing material is not done below + 10 degrees to prevent temperature deformations.

Basement

It is distinct from the previous one in that it is more resilient to the negative effects of outside influences.

Metal

Siding of this kind essentially has no drawbacks. It is safe for the environment, long-lasting, and simple to install. The material doesn’t corrode, rot, or catch fire. The price and poor thermal insulation are drawbacks (the latter being negligible for an arbolite house).

Ceramic

This version stands out for its strong resistance to direct UVI rays, high heat and sound insulation, and abrupt temperature swings. Important fire safety and seismic resistance are features of the material. It is a member of the eco-friendly category.

Wooden

Benefits include low heat conductivity and high vapor permeability. In these ways, it is entirely compatible with arbolite. Ecologically friendly and lightweight material. High combustibility is a drawback. It receives antiseptic and fire retardant treatment after installation, which ought to be done every two years. It is covered with special oils or varnishes to provide UV protection.

Carpentry

The manufacturing process is the only distinction from wood siding. Four classes comprise this cladding material.

External Finish	Internal Finish
Weather-resistant and durable coatings protect arbolite walls from environmental elements.	Decorative options like paint or wallpaper can be applied to enhance the interior aesthetics.

Popular for use in wall construction, arbolite has special benefits for both internal and external finishing. Because of its remarkable strength and lightweight design, it’s the perfect option for homeowners looking for energy efficiency and durability. Rendering, cladding, or painting are some external finish options for arbolite walls that can improve aesthetics and offer weather protection.

Arbolite walls on the inside provide a variety of finishing options. Options range from basic paint to ornamental panels or wall coverings. Additionally, arbolite’s thermal insulation qualities help to keep interior temperatures comfortable, which eventually lowers energy expenses.

The minimal maintenance needed for arbolite is one of its main advantages. Arbolite saves homeowners time and money because it doesn’t need to be painted or repaired as frequently as traditional materials do. Its ability to withstand moisture and mold development also guarantees occupants a healthier living environment.

Arbolite’s appeal is further enhanced by how simple it is to install. Because of its lightweight design, it requires less labor and is easier to handle for both new construction and renovation projects. This makes it a sensible option for both professional builders and do-it-yourselfers.

In conclusion, homeowners can benefit greatly from using arbolite for wall finishing on the interior and exterior. Arbolite is a flexible and affordable material that can be used to create resilient and comfortable living spaces because of its energy efficiency, durability, and beautiful appearance.

The selection of wall finishing materials is an important factor in efficiently heating and insulating your home. Lightweight concrete material Arbolite has special qualities for both interior and external wall finishes. Arbolite exterior finishing offers strong weather resistance and thermal insulation qualities, both of which improve energy efficiency. Internally, arbolite finishes are versatile in texture and design, providing a range of decorative options without sacrificing the home’s thermal comfort. In order to maximize energy efficiency and improve the visual appeal of their homes, homeowners must be aware of the features and advantages of arbolite for both exterior and interior finishes.

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