For all homeowners, keeping their house warm and comfortable throughout the winter is of utmost importance. Comfort and energy economy are dependent on having adequate insulation and heating. Self-regulating cable is one cutting-edge option that many homeowners use. This technology provides effective and adaptable heating for a range of uses.
Now, describe self-regulating cable in more detail. In essence, it’s a unique kind of heating cable that senses temperature changes and automatically modifies its heat output. This implies that the cable produces more heat in response to a drop in temperature and less heat in response to an increase in temperature. It is extremely energy-efficient because of this self-regulating feature, which only uses electricity when and where it is needed.
The self-regulating cable’s operating principle is both clever and straightforward. The cable is made up of a semi-conductive polymer matrix encircling a conductive core. The conductive core moves closer together or farther apart depending on the temperature because the polymer matrix either contracts or expands. This in turn influences the cable’s electrical resistance, which changes the amount of heat produced.
The adaptability of self-regulating cable is one of its main benefits. It is useful for many different types of heating applications, such as underfloor heating in homes and businesses and pipe freezing prevention. It is also a versatile and affordable heating option because it is simple to modify to meet the unique requirements of various settings.
Self-regulating cable provides a dependable and efficient solution, whether you’re looking to increase the effectiveness of your home heating system or guarantee the security of your pipes during the winter. This cutting-edge heating solution uses temperature-sensitive technology to deliver precisely the right amount of warmth, when you need it most.
Feature | Principle of Operation |
Self-regulating | Adjusts its heat output based on the surrounding temperature, preventing overheating and conserving energy. |
- In which zone is installed
- Operating principle of the self-regulating heating cable
- Design and methods of application
- Operating principle
- Warm floor example
- Example with plumbing
- Roof heating example
- Connection to the network
- Operating principle of the heating cable
- Connecting the parts of the self-regulating heating wire
- Advantages
- The device of the heating cable
- Heating of greenhouses
- Heating cable for water pipelines purpose and advantages
- Tips and advice
- Insulation of the free end of the wire
- Why do you need a heating cable
- Methods of installation on the water pipe
- Option #1 – outdoor
- Option #2 – internal
- Internal installation
- Installation of the resistive heating cable
- Laying and connection
- Concealed laying inside the pipe
- Open outdoor laying
- Features of the self-regulating cable design
- Wiring diagram
- Technological characteristics of the cable
- Cable power
- Cable temperature
- What characteristics are important to choose
- Advantages and disadvantages of resistive cables
- Connection to the network
- Set of tools and materials
- Connection of wires
- Single core heating cable
- Methods of fixing the conductor
- Along the pipe
- Along the pipe
- Spiral
- Individual components
- From the inside
- Heating cable insulation
- Scope of use of self-regulating wire
- Popular brands
- Wiring diagram of heating cable
- Principle of operation
- Eliminate the breakage of the heating cable
- Video on the topic
- Features and principle of operation of self-regulating heating cables in industrial electric heating
- The principle of operation of the self-regulating cable
- The principle of operation of the Samreg. Self-regulating cable.
- Self-regulating heating cable. Principle of operation
- How the self-regulating cable works. Experiment.
- Self-regulating heating cable principle of operation (self-reg, properties, Raychem)
- What temperature the self-regulating heating cable heats up to
- Self-regulating heating cable. 7 installation tips. The salesman won"t tell you that.
In which zone is installed
A heating cable ought to be installed in any area used for icing. A minimum of 300 watts of power per square meter is needed in the downspouts and gutters.
Install two pieces at the same time with a power of 20 W per square meter to heat drain pipes.
Power output from the valley roof heating will be between 250 and 300 W per square meter. Both the top and bottom are installed.
The "snake-shaped" roof eaves are heated by a cable that is run along the very edge.
Table 1 (pertaining to metal pipes).
Table 2 relates to plastic pipework.
- Crosses indicate areas where it is not recommended to coil the cable, as it can be damaged.
- It is obligatory to make the pipeline thermally insulated.
- The tables indicate the length to be laid per 1 m of pipe. Where stranding is required, the laying pitch in meters is given in parentheses.
- For those pipe diameters where flow rates are not specified, a thicker insulation must be used.
- Calculation of heating cable lengths is valid for thermal insulation with thermal conductivity not exceeding 0.05 W/(m*K).
Operating principle of the self-regulating heating cable
The operation of the self-regulating heating cable is based on a simple property of an electric current conductor: when heated, its resistance increases, and the higher the resistance, the lower the current force, and therefore the power used. The section of the cable that is in a colder place has a lower resistance, more current flows through the heating matrix in this section, which leads to more heating of the cable and more intensive heating of the pipe. Where the temperature is higher, the resistance of the matrix is higher and the current flowing through it is lower. Thus, when the self-regulating cable is switched on at a freezing water pipe, it is switched on at full power, and as the pipe warms up, its power gradually increases.
The heating cable itself does not turn off when the desired temperature of the heated pipe is reached, it continues to operate continuously, just with less power. For example, the cable is used on the section of the water pipe at the entrance to the house in winter, and its task is to maintain the temperature of the pipe +5 degrees to prevent freezing. Self-regulating cable will not turn off the heating at a temperature of +5 degrees and above, and will not turn on itself when the temperature drops below +5, it will work constantly, just with different intensity. The power consumption of the self-regulating heating cable is about 10 W per meter of length (minimum 5 W, and the most powerful models consume 150 W), this is not much in terms of electricity consumption, and you can afford in the cold season just to keep it on all the time. But the resource of work of such a cable is not infinite, so using it at positive temperatures when it is not necessary is unreasonable.
Automation is required to turn off the heating cable when not in use. Thermostats and relays that sense temperature changes and turn on the cable power supply when the pipe is heated are what make automation possible.
There is a selection of videos attached to this article (total number of videos: 2)
Self-regulating heating cable installation
There are various configurations for installing the self-regulating heating cable: spiral, inside, and along the pipe.
Hydroaccumulator for water supply systems: apparatus and working principle
Why would someone use a hydro accumulator? It’s a device that stores a specific volume of pressurized water in water supply systems so that, in the event that the pump is turned off, water pressure and temporary water consumption are maintained.
Knowing what technical features to look for and what kinds of heating applications there are will help you select the right heating cable. We’ll talk about the key features of heating cables for water heating purposes in this article.
Design and methods of application
Heating cables are used for heating tanks, other water pipes, drains, and sewer and water pipes, depending on their type and technical features. The primary goal is to raise the temperature so as to keep liquids from freezing. For usage in the ground or outdoors, heating systems are pertinent to outdoor communications.
The cable’s ability to transform electricity into heat is what keeps it operating. Unlike power analogs, the wire itself is not able to transfer energy. It just takes that in and transfers the heat to the pipe (tank, gutter, flush, etc.). д.)
One practical feature of heating systems is zonal application. This implies that you can build a mini-system out of a few components to heat a specific area without having to connect to the network as a whole. This conserves resources and energy. In actual use, 200-meter windings and tiny "heaters" measuring 15-20 cm are common.
The following are the heating cable’s primary parts:
- Inner core – single or multiple. For its manufacture go alloys with a high index of electrical resistance. The higher it is, the higher the value of specific heat dissipation.
- Polymer protective sheath. Together with the plastic insulation, an aluminum shield or copper wire mesh is used.
- Strong outer sheath PVC covering all internal elements.
The subtle differences between the offerings of various manufacturers may include the protection device design or the alloy of the core.
Shielded versions with foil protection and two or three cores as opposed to one are thought to be more dependable. Single-core products are a cost-effective choice that work well for assembling systems for brief water pipeline segments.
The outer layer is thickened and the copper braid is nickel-plated to enhance performance. The PVC material also needs to be resistant to UV rays and moisture.
Operating principle
The design and working principle of self-regulating cable differs from that of resistive and zonal cable. A resistive cable is, in essence, a long boiler that cannot be shortened. The heating elements in this instance are the current conductors.
One can cut the zone heating cable, t.к. It gets its current from parallel conductors wound around a heating element composed of high-resistance wire. This wire touches a conductive core in specific places, heating the "zone" area.
The zonal heating cable’s device [sc:img]
A more "intelligent" design is a heating cable that regulates itself. The central component of the cable consists of two copper conductive cores positioned inside braids or screens, depending on the modification. In between the cores is a heating matrix. Although it has characteristics that raise the bar for cable heating to a completely new level, it appears to be a typical dense polyethylene. Because it is a semiconductor, the temperature of this matrix affects its characteristics.
Cable with self-regulation. What’s contained
Warm floor example
Let’s imagine you create warm floors with the aid of such a cable. However, the initial floor temperature varies between rooms; for example, the bathroom has one initial floor temperature, while the hallway has another. Furthermore, there can be large variations in the initial floor temperature in the same room. The only way to achieve a comfortable floor balance with resistive or zonal cable is to divide the rooms into "warm" and "cold" zones. You will need to install extra temperature controllers and heat sensors in order to accomplish this. Not a very pleasant prospect, particularly in light of the drawbacks that we will discuss below.
Setting up a heated floor using cables [sc:img]
You can completely remove the thermoregulator from the plan thanks to self-regulating cables. Through its matrix, it controls where it needs to warm up more and where it needs to cool down. Suppose, with a self-regulating cable, that you leave your snow-covered boots on the floor upon returning from a cold day. Thus, until your shoes reach the desired temperature, the area containing them will heat up more than any other area.
By doing this, a significant amount of energy is saved at the expense of only warming the necessary area.
Example with plumbing
Heating water pipes with heating cables
In severe frosts, you wrap a heating cable around the water valve to keep the water in the pipe from freezing. A complicated geometric shape keeps the cable from coming into direct contact with the metal, allowing any valve (water meter, coarse filter, etc.) to be connected to the water mains. Should you opt for precisely self-regulating heating cable, the primary use of electricity will be for heating the areas that come into contact with the metal, t.к. That’s where the heat transfer will be most noticeable. When compared to other cable heating systems, the cable’s efficiency is several times higher.
Roof heating example
One can rarely predict which area will be most vulnerable to icicle formation when heating a roof to prevent icing. You can be certain that the region with the most ice or water will get warm thanks to this solid-state matrix cable.
Self-regulating cable roof heating [sc:img]
Practical advice: if you plan to use a cable for roof heating, it’s a good idea to go with one that can tolerate high temperatures and is resistant to ultraviolet light.к. In the summer, the temperature on the roof can reach 50 or 60 degrees Celsius. Raychem ETL-10, for instance, is temperature-tolerant up to 65 degrees Celsius.
Connection to the network
As you are only beginning to learn how to make electric water pipe heating, we neglected to mention one crucial detail during the fixing stage, which we will now address: the insulation of the conductor’s end. In order to accomplish this, a heat shrink tube is utilized, which will consistently shield the cores from moisture infiltration.
Additionally, the heating component and the so-called "cold" part must be connected in order to connect the flexible heater. It is advised that you carefully view each connection stage on the video:
Attaching the lug and joining the two parts
Correct methods for removing a self-regulating conductor
We also advise connecting the RCD and thermoregulator to ensure the water heater operates safely and economically. The first gadget guards against current leaks in the heating system, while the second uses a temperature sensor to let you control the heating temperature. A crucial detail: most models only function correctly when the water pipe’s length is less than 50 meters. This should be noted when connecting the sensor to the thermostat (it is better to specify already on the spot in the store).
Operating principle of the heating cable
A thermocable cable with automatic heat output regulation works on a very basic principle. The heating cable’s middle section shrinks by microns as the outside temperature drops. This causes an increase in the quantity of electrical pathways that go through the conductor’s core. The cable produces more thermal power as a result. The opposite process takes place as the temperature drops, resulting in a decrease in the amount of heat produced by the cable.
Therefore, the thermocable will automatically adjust the thermal radiation power on even a small section of laying based on the ambient temperature.
In addition, the cable will function at a reduced power level once it reaches the necessary temperature. That means it will use less electricity as well. Furthermore, the wattage of the cable will determine how much power it uses. Thus, a one-meter long low-power heating cable with automatic regulation will use between 5 and 10 W. More potent models can draw up to 150 watts of power. You can use an automatic system that enables you to switch off the heating when the outside temperature rises to save money. Relays and thermostats are the most often utilized control devices.
Connecting the parts of the self-regulating heating wire
The issue of how to connect the heating cables to one another arises when there are two or more wires of the same kind. You will need crimp sleeves, tools, and a set of heat-shrink tubing in various diameters to accomplish this. There are multiple stages to the work’s completion:
- The outer insulation is cut in a circle and then lengthwise for a length of 4.5-5 cm from the edge. Then it is carefully removed.
- Under it there is a second insulating layer, which is also carefully removed.
- The heating matrix is cut lengthwise to separate the two supply wires. It is necessary to cut without reaching 0.5 cm to the base.
- The next step in connecting the heating cable to each other is to put heat shrink tubing on both wires. For convenience, their length should differ by 1.5-2 cm.
- The tubes are heated with a construction hair dryer to ensure a tight fit to the wires.
- The cable ends are carefully stripped of their insulation to a length of 1 cm.
- Sleeves are put on them, which are crimped with a crimper at the base. After that, heat shrink tubing is put on them.
Now that the heater’s main "body" is ready, let’s talk about how to attach the heating cable to the plug.
- Two pieces of heat-shrink tubing of large diameter but different length are put on the wire, which is taken in such a way that the smaller one completely covers the connected wires after installation, and the larger one exceeds it by about 2 cm on each side.
- The wire is stripped of insulation to a length of about 4 cm, divided into cores, each of which is stripped by 1 cm.
- The stripped ends are inserted into the sleeves of the second piece of wire and crimped from the second end.
- Predetermined pieces of heat-shrink tubing put on the wires are shifted to cover the sleeve and heated with a hair dryer.
- After the procedure of closing the tubes is repeated twice more to ensure absolutely reliable insulation.
The process of attaching the heating cable to the power plug is now evident.
Advantages
Apart from the principal ones mentioned earlier, a few additional "tricks" round out the set.
- The cable can be cut to any length starting from 20 cm. This will not affect its properties in any way. There will be no unheated areas, nor will there be any areas of excessive temperature
- During installation, it is possible to cross. Particularly relevant when heating water supply units. The cable at the crossing point does not overheat and does not fail
- Remains functional in case of breakage. If for some reason the current-carrying conductor inside the cable breaks, it will still heat up to that place
- In the case of heating pipes with self-regulating cable, there are modifications for placement inside the pipe, which significantly increases efficiency
- Does not require a heat sensor and temperature controller. Connects directly to a socket or switch
- Ease of connection, there are special kits for connecting to electricity, inside the pipe, terminating the end of the cable.
The device of the heating cable
The device in a standard self-regulating thermal cable is made up of five simple parts. Manufacturers of conductive products may choose to omit certain parts. This lowers the product’s price, but it also degrades the product’s quality.
Long service life and outstanding performance define heating cable.
For the cable to be dependable and durable over multiple decades, it needs to include:
- Two copper cores;
- Self-regulating semiconductor matrix;
- Internal insulation;
- Shielding braid;
- External protective sheathing.
The cable’s copper conductors may differ in cross-section. This establishes the cable’s length and power. Therefore, cables with conductors measuring 0.5 and 0.7 mm square in cross-section will have respective powers of 11 and 17 W/m. These conductors won’t be longer than a hundred meters. Shorter lengths and greater power are associated with cables with larger cross sections.
The semiconductor matrix is the primary component in charge of the self-regulating heating cable’s functionality.
The semiconductor matrix controls the cable’s heat output in response to variations in the surrounding air temperature and is in charge of dissipating heat from the cable. Insulation shields the semiconductor matrix both electrically and physically. Electric shock injuries to humans are avoided by braided conductors. A unique sheath shields the construction from moisture and mechanical damage; the type of sheath needed depends on how the cable will be used.
Heating of greenhouses
The plans for installing a warm floor and heating greenhouses hardly differ at all. Under a different covering, the installation of a warm floor is essentially the same. A protective grid that is spread out over a bed of sand is where the wire needs to be situated. On top is another layer of sand, then fertile soil and a protective mesh. This should yield a pie with multiple layers.
If you’re going to use self-heating flat tape, it will look different. In this instance, the steel mesh is laid in a single layer, and the first is thermal insulation. The heating components can be mounted on the walls if a subterranean installation is not feasible.
Heating cable for water pipelines purpose and advantages
The main factor in the trouble-free operation of the water supply system is the depth of pipe laying. Ideally, pipes should be laid below the depth of ground freezing, which is determined by climatic conditions of a particular region. But there are situations when it is simply impossible to fulfill this requirement due to heavy, rocky soil, foreign objects in the ground or other communications that got in the way of laying the water pipe. In such cases, additional insulation of the pipe with various insulating materials can help. But even these measures may not be sufficient. Also ice plugs can form in places where communications pass through the base of the basement or unheated basements, where it is not possible to insulate the water pipe qualitatively.
The best method to prevent freezing in these circumstances is to use electric pipe heating. A pipe heating cable that is installed either inside or outside the heated pipe is used for this purpose.
Heating occurs when electrical energy is transformed into thermal energy while in operation, as in the case of an electric stove’s heating coil. Physics classes in school have taught us that water freezes at 0 degrees Celsius, so raising the temperature just a little bit will keep the system running smoothly. Water pipe heating cables need to be extremely strong, flexible, and have dependable dielectric insulation because any damage to the conductor or "breakdown" of the electrical voltage on the water jet could result in fatal electrocutions of people.
Tips and advice
When you’re laying, use caution. This will enable the avoidance of certain issues.
Avoid twisting cables together. There will be a short circuit.
There must always be insulation around the conductors in the black polymer. Since it conducts current, it must be handled like a conductor and is thus classified as such.
To avoid sparking and fire, the system’s electrical connections need to be properly insulated.
Every electrical connector used for the heating cable needs to be tightly sealed to keep moisture out.
When its heating temperature reaches its maximum value, it is not allowed to be used. This will shorten its lifespan.
It is required to replace the damaged cord with a new one. The system will become inactive even if one component stops working.
Only specialized cable with unique accessories should be installed in explosive environments. Among these circumstances are certain industries:
- Chemical.
- Petrochemical.
- Carbon.
Special cables that are approved for use in this location are installed for these.
Installing the wrong equipment could result in an explosion or a serious fire.
Insulation of the free end of the wire
The second end is left uncovered after the heating cable is connected to the supply cable. It needs to go into a socket. To accomplish this, one core is cut to create a "ladder" after a tiny longitudinal cut measuring approximately 1 centimeter is made to split the two wires apart.
Cutting the two cores in this way will dependable prevent an unintentional connection and short circuit, which could burn out the heating cable.
We take two pieces of heat shrink tubing, the larger measuring 7-8 centimeters and the smaller measuring about five centimeters. To ensure a tight crimp, place the first one over the insulated portion of the wire by 3.5 cm and heat it with a hair dryer.
A crimper or pair of pliers are used to clamp the free portion of the tube. Subsequently, an additional tube of greater diameter is fitted, and the process is reiterated to safely cut the heating cable.
Why do you need a heating cable
One could easily argue that a heating system is unnecessary. It is sufficient to determine the area’s ground freezing point before excavating a trench to the necessary depth using the indicators as a guide. It is typically 1.5–1.7 meters. Pipes that are insulated and buried at such a depth don’t freeze because the ground around them is warm—roughly + to 2-4 ºC.
But not everything is that easy. Elevated groundwater levels are typical in wetlands and areas adjacent to bodies of water. This implies that communications will be flooded during floods or snowmelt, which will impair their functionality.
However, deep ditches won’t need to be dug if the pipes are only buried half a meter when the electric cable is connected and adequate insulation is installed.
During severe winters, it is possible for even buried areas to freeze. Without a well-supplied automatic water supply, a home can become less comfortable, if not impossible, to live in. It is imperative that urgent repairs be made.
Remember to take into account the areas where the pipeline enters the house, which are the most vulnerable to the cold. It is easiest to insulate the open pipeline section beneath a building constructed on a pile-and-screw foundation with heating cable.
In conclusion, you should absolutely install a heating system for the water pipe if it is physically possible to do so, if only as a precaution against freezing. But you might receive a range of offers when getting in touch with a specialized business. Now let’s examine the range.
Methods of installation on the water pipe
Installing the heating cable can be done either internally or externally. It is fixed along the pipe (or wrapped around it) in the first instance, and wound inside the pipe in the second. Let’s examine both of these options in more detail as they both have active practical applications.
Option #1 – outdoor
It is simple to install the cable in a linear fashion along the water pipe. Fiberglass self-adhesive that can tolerate high temperatures or plastic clamps are used to secure the wire on one side. Holders are secured at 0.3-meter intervals. Metal fasteners should not be used. It is simple to calculate the cable’s length because it is equal to the length of the pipe that needs to be heated.
Guidelines for installing in-line:
First, secure the cable to the pipe.
Attaching the aluminum tape is step two.
Installing the "jacket" of thermal insulation is step three.
Step 4: Installing the pipe’s thermal insulation
When it comes to underground pipes, the cable is not exactly at the top or bottom but rather slightly shifted; this is known as the "8 (4) o’clock position."
Spiral installation is another method used in addition to linear installation; in this method, the cable is wound with uniform spacing along the whole length of the pipe. Plus: the pipe’s surface is in maximum contact; minus: more material is used.
Conditions can be taken into consideration when adjusting the coil spacing. For instance, it is decreased in regions that experience extreme freezing, ensuring that the pipe’s whole surface receives the maximum amount of heat.
In addition to heating water pipes, the coiled method is applicable to medium and large diameter pipes, such as drain and sewer pipes.
Option #2 – internal
Only water pipes with a cross-section larger than 40 mm can be installed internally. Other types of pipes are not suitable for this method. The cable will partially impede the flow of water in pipes with a smaller diameter. Although installing internal heating in a long pipe can be challenging, it is one of the best solutions for sections that are several meters long.
Pulling the cable in vertical segments, from top to bottom, is the most convenient method. To keep the cord from slipping off, the procedure is performed using a sealing sleeve and a tee. Internal installation makes more sense in some situations than external installation, such as when replacing or repairing components.
While inserting and connecting a pre-made system is not difficult, assembling it is a considerably more challenging task. The following instructions will teach you how to prepare the wires for insertion into the pipe.
First, take out the insulation.
Step 2: Unbraiding
Step 3: cutting out the corner
Step 4: getting the inner sleeve ready
Step 5: Use a hair dryer to casing the coupling
Step 6: attaching the sleeve’s end with glue
Step 7: Attaching the cap
Eliminating the sealed end in step eight
Knowing your self-regulating cable is essential if you want to follow our advice on efficiently heating and insulating your house. This cutting-edge system provides accurate and effective heating solutions for a range of applications by automatically adjusting its heat output based on the ambient temperature. Self-regulating cables are safer and more energy-efficient than conventional cables because they are incapable of overheating. Their mechanism of operation involves a conductive core that modifies its resistance in reaction to temperature fluctuations, guaranteeing even heating while averting overheating and unnecessary energy consumption. Self-regulating cables provide a dependable and hassle-free solution for your heating needs, whether you’re trying to keep pipes from freezing or maintain comfortable temperatures in particular areas.
Internal installation
People often ask how to connect the self-regulating heating cable to the pipe from the inside. This is necessary in situations where connection from the outside is not possible. For example, if you are connecting a self-regulating heating cable to an object hidden in the ground. For such cases, only special shielded wire capable of withstanding serious pressure is suitable. If the installation of heating cable is carried out in a pipe that supplies drinking water, it is necessary to have a special certificate. Here to do the heating cable with your own hands 220v is not just not recommended, but contraindicated. In domestic realities, products from Germany, Denmark and South Korea have proven themselves well.
It is imperative to apply a gland to the heating cable prior to installation. It needs to line up with the pipe’s external thread diameter. The tightness of the connection at the object’s point of entry is guaranteed by this device. The self-regulating heating cable’s connection method is as straightforward as possible: the wire is securely crimped with a special ring when the bushing is screwed on, preventing any foreign objects from entering the pipe.
If you carry out the installation of self-regulating heating cable with your own hands and have already previously cut a piece of cord, do not forget to seal the end with an external coupling. We"ve already covered how to do this. If you decide how to connect the heating cable for drinking water pipes, any cap suitable in size will not fit. It is necessary to purchase a product with the appropriate certificate from the store. The material from which the coupling is made must be harmless and able to withstand high pressure. Keep in mind that installing a self-regulating heating cable in this manner can affect the capacity of the pipe. If the wire turns out to be too thick, the water pressure will be significantly reduced. Take this into account when selecting the coupling.
You can order this service in-store if you don’t want to bother figuring out how to plug in the heating cable to the electric wire. It is offered in the majority of stores. Regarding affixing directly to the object, anyone can undoubtedly accomplish the installation of the heating cable on the pipe. All that’s left to do is firmly fasten the insulator and wrap the cord with tape. Inserting the wire into the product and tightening the bushing don’t require any more effort.
You can easily find more information on our website in Moscow if you need to know how to connect a heating cable. Expert advisors are prepared to respond to your inquiries.
Installation of the resistive heating cable
Installed on brief segments of pipes with a small diameter (up to 40 mm) is resistive heating cable. For a single-core product, looping the supply wire through a coupling or extension is necessary to establish the necessary conditions for voltage supply from both ends. This makes connecting the heating cable more difficult. Installing a two-core product is made easier because voltage is only applied to one end of it.
The resistive option has two drawbacks: high energy costs and the inability to install the coupling yourself. The resistive option has a low cost. Given our understanding of how this kind of heating functions, the question of control emerges. The system cannot function without automatic control if human intervention is not present. This is an extra expense that goes hand in hand with the drawbacks.
Setting up a resistive cable
This kind of heater can be joined in two pieces, but it cannot be cut. Tiny protective sheath sections must be removed, the braid must be wrapped, some insulation must be removed, and the cores must be soldered or crimped together.
Crucial! Heat shrink tubing is the best material for insulation.
Laying and connection
We have taken into account all the crucial factors, including the self-regulating heating cable’s operation principle and selection considerations. Learning how to install it is still necessary. Let’s talk about the most intriguing approach first: inside the pipe.
Concealed laying inside the pipe
Installing the self-regulating heating cable for water pipes inside the pipe is the most fascinating task we have ahead of us. It will keep the pipe from freezing and bursting because it is heated. Let’s observe the process. We’ll require the following supplies and equipment:
Such a connection scheme yields an incommensurable increase in efficiency, but comes with a much higher effort cost.
- Self-regulating heating cable of suitable length;
- A sharp knife for removing the insulation;
- Shrink wrap for insulating the conductors;
- Rubber gland;
- Tee for installing the self-regulating cable inside the pipe;
- Hair dryer for shrinking the film;
- Electrical wire with plug.
We start by identifying the point of entry, which may be internal or external (everything is unique, so we consider the circumstances).
Where the pipe enters another building or enters the ground is where the end section is located.
Keep in mind that the self-regulating heating cable can be damaged if there are taps or valves anywhere along its length.
Don’t wait until the first frosts appear; complete all work ahead of time, at a positive temperature. Remember to turn off the water before you start!
A unique coupling intended for joining. It’s available at any plumbing supply store.
It will be simpler to lay, cut, and install a tee at this point if the water pipe rises from the floor and continues horizontally.
The self-regulating heating cable’s tip should then have a heat shrink tube placed on it, and it should be heated using a construction hair dryer. The tip needs to be tightly sealed to prevent water from coming into contact with live parts. Don’t forget to attach a gland to the self-regulating heating cable before inserting it through the upper outlet.
The cable should then be pushed to the necessary length, which should be determined beforehand and allowed for a small reserve. We must mount a wire with a plug at the other end. Remove the insulation and braiding carefully so that there are just two conductors. Solder the wire to them, making sure to wear a shrink sleeve (wear it after soldering and use a hair dryer to blow hot air on it).
Use a multimeter to measure the resistance once all the electrical connections have been made; it should be several tens of ohms. If the self-regulating cable is damaged, remove it and examine it for a short circuit on the multimeter.
The portion at the farthest end requires close attention.
Next, tighten the gland, turn on the water supply, and look for any leaks in the area where we work. If everything checks out, turn on the wire that is connected to the network’s self-regulating heating cable. It is highly advised to wrap the water pipe with thermal insulation even though it is now shielded from freezing. Recall that a strong defense consists of several stages.
Open outdoor laying
Installing a self-regulating heating cable outside the water pipe is an option if necessary. It covers the fittings, couplings, and valves that are attached to the pipes in addition to the pipes themselves. Using aluminum tape to secure multiple self-regulating cables to the pipe is the most straightforward method. Moreover, a spiral or double spiral can be laid, which only improves heating efficiency.
It is truly enjoyable to fix the heating cable in this manner. Investing in high-quality aluminum tape is crucial.
Another way to lay heating cables is to lay one in parallel and the other in a spiral pattern around the pipe. This is known as double laying. The same aluminum tape is used to secure it to the pipe, with rings spaced every 20 to 30 centimeters. We will optimize the system’s efficiency by wrapping the entire length of the cable with duct tape after winding is finished.
Certain experts recommend using foil or similar scotch tape to pre-wrap the pipes in order to maximize heat transfer efficiency.
Features of the self-regulating cable design
In addition to operating on a different principle, self-regulating cable is unique in that it has certain design elements. It is made up of specific components like:
- Two metal conductors. Their task is to provide the wire with electricity.
- Self-regulating matrix. The function of this element is to regulate and heat the temperature. The matrix is located in parallel between the two conductors, where connected to them, it receives the necessary electricity.
- Insulation layer. Its function is to prevent heat leakage.
- Shielding braid. This element is made of metal, which protects the device from electromagnetic influences
- The outer shell. This coating is designed to protect the entire structure of the cable from technical damage.
This design gives the self-regulating wire a long service life by providing good resistance to various damages.
The matrix is still what makes this design unique, though. This is because every component of the matrix has the ability to carry out distinct tasks. In other words, it only warms the places that are actually needed on the wire rather than the entire length. As a result, one wire segment may be hotter or colder than the other.
Not to mention, the self-regulating wire can have any length. As a result, when purchasing a cable, there is no need to perform any preliminary calculations. In the event that the cable proves to be longer, it can be independently shortened without fear of failure. This feature allows the cable to function even in the event of a malfunction because every centimeter is involved in the work.
Wiring diagram
Installation techniques for self-regulating heating products vary. They are all appropriate for various uses of the device. Water and sewage pipes are installed linearly. It means that the wire should be installed along the pipe. You have the option of using a spiral installation method in addition to linear. It will take a lot of material to accomplish this. Internal installation is sometimes carried out along the pipe, but its implementation calls for significant work.
A power cord must be used to connect the device to the network once it has been fully installed. Additionally, you ought to familiarize yourself with the advice of experts:
- During installation, the ambient temperature should be at least 15 degrees Celsius.
- The bend of the device should be equal to the sum of its six diameters.
- After completing the installation procedure, it is necessary to check the resistance value.
Technological characteristics of the cable
Self-regulating wire comes in a variety of models, each with unique characteristics. Consequently, you should think about whether a model’s technological features match the application when choosing one.
Cable power
There may be variations in the wire’s power. Depending on the kind of model, yes. The average power per square meter is 5 W at the minimum and 150 W at the maximum. Remember, though, that power consumption increases with power levels. As such, it is important to take your local climate into account when selecting a cable. It is advised that people living in northern regions use high-power cables. Installing a low-power cable will suffice for southern regions; if not, heat output will remain constant but electricity consumption will rise in cost.
Cable temperature
The operating temperature of a cable is another place to start. They fall into three categories based on the degree of heating:
- low-temperature – 65 °C;
- medium-temperature – 120 ° C;
- high-temperature – 240 ° C.
It will be sufficient to select a self-regulating cable with low power and temperature for the protection of water pipes. For additional uses, the power and temperature must be at least 25 W and 120 °C, respectively.
What characteristics are important to choose
Make sure you specify the diameter of the water pipe, the length of the area that needs to be heated, and the lowest temperature at which the air can drop (ground) before you head to the store. This will make it easier to choose from the many options available.
Thus, be mindful of the following:
- whether the cable has a protective braid (it provides grounding and makes the cable more reliable);
- type of external insulation;
- temperature class and power;
- manufacturing company.
Although fluoroplastic protection is advised for internal installation in water pipes, cables with polyolefin insulation may be appropriate for sewage systems. Fluoropolymer is an appropriate material for outdoor installation since it offers protection from both moisture and UV rays.
Low-temperature conductors are appropriate if small-diameter pipes need to be heated. Heats up to +65 oC and uses roughly 15 W/m of power at maximum.
Larger diameter pipes work well with systems operating at a moderate temperature. Maximum heating temperature is +120 oC, and 33 W/m of power is used. The most potent systems are those with a maximum temperature of + 190 ºC and specific power of up to 95 W/m; however, these are typically industrial products and are not used in homes.
The diameter of the pipe can be used to determine the appropriate power. For instance, cables with a power of 10 W/m are appropriate for water pipes with a diameter of up to 2.5 cm, 16 W/m for pipes between 2.5 and 4 cm, 24 W/m for pipes between 4 and 6 cm, and so forth.
Numerous heating cable brands have only demonstrated their positive attributes over time. renowned goods made by foreign businesses:
SST (Teplolyuks) is a prominent Russian manufacturer that produces high-quality household products.
Advantages and disadvantages of resistive cables
- they cannot be extended or shortened
- If two resistance cables are crossed or close to each other, they will overheat, destroy the insulation and short-circuit
- A burned resistive cable must be replaced completely, only part of it cannot be replaced
- heating always takes place along the entire length and with maximum power
It makes sense to use a resistive cable to heat a small portion of the water pipe where the temperature difference is minimal and the pipe runs under the same conditions. It is preferable to use a long water pipe with varying temperature conditions in each section if heating is required.
Since the heating cable does not need to run continuously, thermostats are used as a control to prevent electricity waste. When the water supply temperature falls below 3–4 degrees, they turn on the heating, and when it rises above 5–6 degrees, they turn it off. Consequently, it offers inexpensive water with a constant temperature in the water pipe.
Connection to the network
There will be preliminary work to be done before connecting the CSR to the power grid. Stocking up on the required tools ahead of time is also necessary to prevent unanticipated problems during installation.
Set of tools and materials
It is important to note that the heating cable is not directly connected to the power grid before beginning installation. It must first be connected to the cold wire, which will act as an electrical conductor, in order to accomplish this.
Now, let’s look at a set of instruments used for wire wrapping:
- pliers;
- pliers;
- cutter;
- construction knife;
- devices for stripping the ends of the wire;
- crimping pliers.
A ruler and a construction hair dryer are also required.
Connection of wires
A specific order must be followed when connecting the heating product to the cold lead. Therefore, you should carefully familiarize yourself with the following instructions before beginning work to avoid making mistakes.
Setting up the heating cord:
- From the end of the heating product, which will be connected to the cold wire, the upper sheath is carefully removed with a construction knife.
- Use a screwdriver to strip the protective shield on the wire, which is then wrapped into a bundle.
- From the edge of the wiring at a distance of 3 cm. The matrix is removed.
- On the cleaned area conductive conductors are rolled up into a bundle.
- On each electrical conductor put on heat-shrink tubing of small diameter.
- The conductive cores are joined together by a large heat shrink tubing.
- Having carried out all the actions, it is made obmutting with a construction hair dryer.
- Then each wire is divorced in opposite directions and with the help of a duckbill "pants" are made.
Following the completion of CSR preparation for cold wire connection, sleeves are placed on the protective screen harness and on both ends of the core. Verify that the sleeves are the same size on each one.
Preparing the cold wire is the next step in connecting the heating cable to the power source:
- Measuring 3 cm. From the edge of the cold wire is made radial and axial incision.
- Having thus freed the cores, they are cleaned with a special tool.
After completing the aforementioned tasks, the stripped cold wire cores are inserted into the heating product’s sleeves.
Important: The ground wire is located in the protective screen sleeve, and the zero and phase of the cold wire are located in the sleeves of the heating cable’s conductive cores. After realizing both connections, the single wire connection scheme will be easier to understand.
Installing a plug at the end of the cold conductor and inserting it into a socket will suffice to accomplish this.
After realizing both connections, the single wire connection scheme will become simpler. Installing a plug at the end of the cold conductor and inserting it into a socket will suffice to accomplish this.
Moreover, the cable can be used to heat the roof.
As you can see, laying technology is not as complicated as it might initially appear. The most important thing to remember when working is to adhere to the installation process exactly and precisely.
The article’s administrative author
Single core heating cable
An outer sheath, a shielding braid, and a single conductive core covered in insulation make up this type of resistive cable. The figure depicts the layout of a single-core cable:
There is only one conductive core, which doubles as the heating element in a single-core cable. In order to ensure that both ends of the cable are in the same location, the cable must be laid in a loop, starting from the source and traveling all the way to the end of the heated section of water pipe before returning.
Diagram of a single-core resistive cable’s electrical connections.
When it comes to closed loop heating, such as underfloor or roof heating, single-core cables work better. A single core cable can be installed on two opposite sides of a water pipe if it is to be used for heating that section.
Heating water pipes with a single-core resistive cable.
It is only possible to install a single core cable on the pipe’s exterior. There are two reasons why installation inside the pipe is not feasible:
- the laid single-core cable will occupy its double volume in the pipe cavity, which will create additional water head losses
- it is not known how the cable will be arranged: it can overlap in one place and this will lead to overheating.
Methods of fixing the conductor
Prior to discussing the intricacies of connection and additional thermal insulation for the system, we will first examine the methods for installing heating cable for water pipes both internally and externally.
Along the pipe
It is better to connect the heating cable to the pipe at the time of installing the water supply circuit. There are two ways to accomplish this: around the pipe or along it. Let’s look at the guidelines for mending every technique.
Along the pipe
Installing the heating cable in a single line along the contour is the most convenient option. In this instance, it is necessary to install the conductor beneath the pipe in order to shield the heating element from overhead mechanical damage. Furthermore, since water begins to freeze from the bottom, the flexible heater’s lower location will enable the water pipe to stop freezing more quickly.
If you choose to run multiple cable lines along the pipe, you should follow the instructions in the following diagrams:
Aluminum tape works best for securing the heating cable to the water pipes because it increases the conductor’s heat dissipation and fixes it firmly. Adhesive tape can also be used for fastening in place of tape. It is wrapped around the pipeline in the manner described below:
When installing heating cable for water pipes that pass through corners, pay close attention. As seen in the following image, it is advised to position the conductor along the pipe’s outer radius to make sure the bend is not too large.
Spiral
It is advised to completely encircle the pipeline with the heating element in areas with extremely low temperatures. The heating efficiency will be significantly higher in this scenario, even though the coil’s pitch is only approximately 5 cm (it can be increased if needed). The conductor’s length ought to be roughly 1.7 times that of the water pipe. In areas that are difficult to access, spiral cable can be installed as follows:
In this instance, the loops are wrapped in the opposite direction after the heating cable has first been wrapped with an allowance. The final action is less than the water line’s step-by-step wiring.
Individual components
Fixing more flexible heaters, t.к., on nodes like metal supports, valves, gate valves, and flanges is recommended. The heat dissipation is higher here. The installation diagrams are displayed clearly below:
We also suggest watching the following video to see how heating cable is installed on pipes:
How to do a manual installation of a flexible heater
The temperature sensor installation requires extra care and attention. It is advised to position the sensor as far away from the cable line as feasible, at the coldest point, to guarantee that the water heater functions correctly and the cable does not overheat. It is advised to use a strip of aluminum scotch tape to pre-glue the temperature sensor installation location. The following are some instances of where sensors should be placed:
From the inside
If there is no way to heat the pipe from the outside, installing a heating cable inside is advised. This approach is typically used when the water pipe is already subterranean, installed in concrete buildings, or in another difficult-to-reach location. The following are the drawbacks of installing the flexible heater internally:
- The pipe lumen (internal diameter for the water supply) is reduced.
- The conductor over time begins to overgrow with plaque, as a result of which clogs are formed.
- A new point in the water pipe is added – a tee, which reduces the reliability of the circuit.
- Installation of heating cable is allowed only on straight and slightly curved sections of water pipes. It is forbidden to conduct the flexible heater through tees and stop valves.
Positive aspects include the heater’s direct contact with water, which results in low power consumption, and less labor-intensive repairs, which only require pulling the cable out of the tee and don’t require breaking the ground, etc.д.).
Therefore, the following detailed instructions are followed in order to install the conductor inside the pipe:
- The first step is to put a gland assembly on the cable to place it in the pipe. This assembly looks as shown in the photo above.
- In the right place of the water pipe is mounted tee, through which the input of the flexible electric heater will be carried out.
- The cable is carefully laid up to the problematic area to be heated.
- The gland assembly is screwed, sealed and crimped.
As you can see, it is not at all difficult to install the heating cable internally into the water pipe. Let’s now discuss the last two installation steps, which are insulating the pipes and connecting to the network.
Heating cable insulation
It is essential to insulate cables, regardless of their type. The water pipe and the heating system are both covered in thermal insulation. The heat will radiate in all directions, primarily "into the air," if the plumbing and heating cable are not enclosed in an airtight "cocoon."
The thermal insulation layer’s thickness is chosen based on outside variables. Assume that an installation in the ground only needs a 20–30 mm layer of insulation, but an above-ground version will need at least 50 mm of insulation.
Both polystyrene and polyethylene foams function as trustworthy and efficient insulators. They provide some protective cushioning for the pipe and are resistant to moisture, but they still require protection. Because of this, a "pipe-in-pipe" construction is frequently utilized, in which an insulated pipe with an earth or aerial location is inserted inside a larger diameter pipe.
Scope of use of self-regulating wire
Heating cables were originally used to prevent pipelines and sewers from freezing. The main argument is that, in the lack of a chance to insulate pipes or add thermal barriers, cold water iced up in the pipes, which caused expansion due to its physical characteristics and consequent damage.
Self-regulating cables are used in many different applications nowadays. Traditionally, they fall into the following categories:
- Industrial purposes. Here, self-regulating wire protects household piping, valves, water meters and other elements where water is present. For this purpose, the heating cable is connected to the supply cable, which has a euro – plug, due to which the connection to the power grid takes place.
- Protection of roofs and gutters. In this case, to prevent ice and icicles, the heating cable is laid along the edge of the entire roof area.
- Heating of paths and greenhouses. In order to prevent ice from forming on the grounds near the house during frosts, and to prevent seedlings from suffering from cold, self-regulating cable is poured into cement or buried in the ground.
- Non-standard use. Many consumers use self-regulating wire as an additional source of heat. For this purpose it is woven into upholstered furniture, foot mats or even pillows.
As you can see, the consumer’s creativity determines how this wire is utilized for various purposes.
Popular brands
The cost of self-regulating heating cable is a little bit more than that of a typical gadget. Nonetheless, it succeeds in defending itself throughout its existence.
These cables can cost anywhere from $100 to $1,000. rubles for every meter of substance. Local manufacturers offer inexpensive devices. It is also important to consider that the cost of each meter decreases with the length of time the customer requires a wire.
As per the reviews penned by advocates of these products, Raychem, Lavita, Ensto, and Devi are the most widely used brands of heating cables.
The superior internal coating of the products made by Ensto and Lavita is what sets them apart. The priciest goods are imported from Denmark and are sold under the Devi brand. Models from the Ensto and Lavita brands are affordable options. Ensto’s service life is comparable to that of more costly Devi devices. Regarding this, the majority of customers favor Ensto heating appliances.
You can find a fairly effective use for a self-regulating heating cable device at home if you closely examine its workings and mechanism.
Wiring diagram of heating cable
Linking up with a CSR is fairly simple. The conductive conductors of the cable must receive a voltage of 220 volts. It is important to ensure that the heating end is adequately insulated to prevent any contact between the conductive cores.
An earth connection needs to have a unique braid if there is one.
The connection method is dependent upon multiple factors:
- Where it will be installed.
- Available tools.
- Availability of consumables.
There is only one wiring diagram per method. Simply applying voltage to its conductors is what happens if there is no braid.
It is necessary to insulate the other end.
The heating cable needs to be earthed if it has a grounding shield. The shield is just severed in the event that grounding is not possible.
Please visit http://zona-tepla.ru/podklyuchenie-greyushhego-kabelya/ for more information about the connection.
Principle of operation
Such a product functions on a principle that is somewhat similar to that of a resistive conductor. The self-regulating heating cable operates based on the fact that resistance rises with temperature in an electric current conductor. The higher it is, the lower the power input because the amperage will also be lower.
In this instance, the polymer matrix operates on the following principle: as temperature drops in any area of the matrix, current conductivity rises, increasing heating element temperature. As a result, different temperature controllers are not necessary to control the temperature. Thermoregulation is accomplished in this manner.
For example, the principle of action on a certain section of wiring, which is located in a cold place is as follows: it has a lower resistance, but through the matrix here flows a significant current, which significantly heats the device. Where the section of pipe is warm, the resistance will be greater, and therefore the current flowing is less. Therefore, when a self-regulating heating conductor is connected to a freezing water pipe, it begins to work at full power, and when the pipe begins to warm up, the power of the device will increase. About how to make heating of water pipes with a cable, we told in the corresponding article.
The following outcomes are achievable thanks to the product’s operating principle:
- A reliable fixture that will last for many years;
- Use of the product in all circumstances and conditions.
The following video reviews make it very evident how this kind of conductor operates and what it is made of:
Eliminate the breakage of the heating cable
Overheating or temperature sensor malfunction can cause damage. Disconnect the unit from the mains and carefully remove the cable if it stops operating either inside or outside the water supply. Grounding should be considered when stripping and splicing self-regulating wires because they can be cut. As insulation, use a shrink sleeve. A construction hair dryer can be used to heat the heat shrink sleeve. Replace the heating device once all adjustments have been made.
How to fix the breakage and then install the self-regulating cable inside the chimney
If the air temperature is not less than five degrees Celsius, work on installing self-regulating cable in the pipe is done. Soldering is used to connect the conductors. By using insulation, moisture intrusion is prevented and high temperatures are shielded from the heater. The temperature range in which the device operates is five to fifteen.
Following the removal of the breakage, the following kinds of tasks ought to be carried out:
- Install a tee where you will be inserting the cable
- then screw on the adapter
- insert the cable
Self-regulating cables provide a flexible and effective way to keep temperatures at ideal levels in a range of applications, such as home insulation and heating. Self-regulating heating cables, as opposed to traditional ones, save energy and avoid overheating by adjusting their heat output in response to temperature changes.
The capacity of self-regulating cables to automatically control heat over their whole length is one of their primary characteristics. This implies that the cable produces more heat to compensate for drops in temperature and less heat to compensate for rises in temperature, guaranteeing steady and dependable operation without the need for external controls.
Self-regulating cables work on a principle derived from their special design. These cables are made of conductive polymer materials that have conductive components embedded in them. The polymer expands at higher temperatures, pushing the conductive elements farther apart and increasing the electrical resistance of the cable while decreasing heat output.Conversely, the polymer contracts at lower temperatures, bringing the conductive elements closer together and lowering the resistance while increasing heat output.
Because of their capacity for self-regulation, these cables are extremely effective and secure for usage in a range of settings. Self-regulating cables minimize energy consumption and the risk of overheating while offering dependable performance for a variety of applications, including floor heating, roof and gutter de-icing, and pipe freezing protection.
To sum up, self-regulating cables provide an affordable and useful way to meet insulation and heating requirements in both commercial and residential settings. Their capacity to adjust to temperature changes guarantees effective operation, gives homeowners peace of mind, and promotes environmental sustainability and energy savings.