Expansion tank with your own hands

An effective heating system is essential for keeping your house warm and comfortable during the winter. The expansion tank is one part of these systems that is frequently disregarded. This small but essential gadget is essential to preserving the integrity and effectiveness of your heating system. We’ll explore the definition of an expansion tank in this post and discuss its importance for the insulation and heating of your house.

Let’s start by understanding the fundamentals: An expansion tank: what is it? In a nutshell, an expansion tank is a tiny reservoir that is linked to the heating system in your house. Its main purpose is to allow the water in the system to expand and contract as it heats and cools. Your heating system may become damaged or possibly fail due to the pressure produced by this thermal expansion if you don’t have an expansion tank.

You may be wondering why building or installing one yourself would be necessary. Although expansion tanks are usually installed by experts when a heating system is first set up, there are instances in which you might need to add or replace one later on. Maybe you’re remodeling your house, replacing a malfunctioning tank, or upgrading your heating system. In these situations, you can save time and money by installing or replacing the expansion tank yourself.

So what is the precise operation of an expansion tank? It functions based on the straightforward idea of fluid expansion and contraction. The expansion of heated water results in a rise in pressure inside the heating system. This increased volume is buffered by the expansion tank, which keeps too much pressure from building up. On the other hand, as the water cools, it constricts and the expansion tank refills the system with the water that has been stored to maintain ideal pressure levels.

When installing or replacing an expansion tank on your own, it’s crucial to adhere to the recommended procedures and safety precautions. It’s not a very complicated process, but it does require some basic plumbing knowledge and equipment. Further essential to the system’s effective functioning is making sure the tank is sized and positioned appropriately.

In conclusion, even though the expansion tank may appear to be a minor part of your home’s heating system, it actually plays a big part. It assists in preventing damage and guarantees the efficient functioning of your heating system by allowing for the thermal expansion of water. Any homeowner can benefit from knowing how to install or replace an expansion tank, whether they’re building a new house, improving their heating system, or just doing routine maintenance.

How to make an expansion heating tank with their own hands

• Expansion tank of the open type
• The device of an open-type cistern
• Expansion tank of closed type
• How to make a tank with your own hands
• List of tools and materials
• Technology of installation of the tank in the system

The majority of homes and apartments nowadays have a water heating system of their own. The owners of this design must install and use it appropriately. Some individuals who did well in physics classes in school are aware that water has the ability to expand in volume when heated. Using expansion tanks is essential to lowering the water load on the pipes and the system as a whole. For the purpose of retaining and eliminating excess water, they are essential. Every heating system, particularly closed systems, has a reserve of capacity of its own.

You can construct an expansion tank on your own to heat the house. Such a design doesn’t require correct positioning or functionality.

When this reserve reaches its limit, the hydraulic pressure rises and there’s a chance the entire structure and equipment will be destroyed. It is imperative to delve deeper into the definition of an expansion tank, its primary classifications, and the membrane heating expansion tank’s operational principle.

One element of water heating is the expansion tank. It’s a vessel that can hold hot water that gets hotter. The apparatus is crucial. The main idea is that, for every degree Celsius that the water in the boiler is heated, the volume of the heated liquid increases by an average of 0.3%. When the water reaches 100 °C, its volume should rise by roughly 3%.

Diagram of the expansion tank-radiator-pipe open heating system.

The principle of its operation is not complicated. So, the expansion tank performs such functions as: removal of excess water during heating into the drain, collection of water vapor and air, which are released in the boiler during its operation, replenishing the volume of water in case of its leakage or other emergency situations, maintaining the necessary level of hydrostatic pressure. Scientists have proved that in a heating system with a water carrier there is a certain amount of air, on average 40 mg per 1 liter of liquid. But when heated, its solubility sharply decreases, and it can be released into the environment in the form of bubbles in the volume of about 90% of the original figures.

Expansion tank of open type

Prior to the expansion tank being installed. It is essential to understand the various varieties, as well as their primary benefits and drawbacks. Tanks come in two varieties: open and closed. It is advised that the first be mounted atop the riser, which is the pipe that goes straight to a building’s attic. Such an expansion tank can have a variety of shapes, including round, rectangular, and cylindrical. A thick sheet steel construction and an inspection-only lid on the upper portion are necessary for this type of cistern.

It is a common component of heating systems. The expansion tank has an anti-corrosion layer applied to protect it from damage.

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Design of an open-type cistern

Schematic diagram for a heating expansion tank.

Multiple spigots should be part of the open system of the tank in order to connect the expansion, overflow, circulation, and control pipes. Water enters the tank through the first one, surplus water is drained by the second, water is transported to the heating system via the circulation pipe, and air is expelled and the pipe filling level is controlled by the control tube. In addition, a spare pipe is available for draining the water in the event of a repair. A spigot is a tiny pipe that joins the main system to remove air or water.

A homemade expansion tank ought to have enough capacity to hold four percent of the total volume of water flowing through the appliances and pipes.

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Closed expansion tank

Plan for attaching the pump to the heating network’s supply line.

The membrane type tank is used more often in the heating system. It is a tank of balloon or flat type, which inside is divided into 2 departments by a special membrane. The first is for liquid, the second for air. The principle of operation of the membrane cistern is more complicated. When the volume of incoming water in the system increases, the volume ratio of these two parts of the tank also changes. It is realized thanks to the bending of the membrane. In the initial position the whole tank is filled with air, the diaphragm is pressed down. As the water heats up and enters the pipes, the membrane begins to expand, and the ratio of chambers changes in volume.

When the pressure in the air chamber reaches the upper limit of allowable values, the system’s operating procedure incorporates a safety valve, which eliminates excess air and lowers system pressure. The ideal pressure range is between 3.3 and 4 bar. The expansion tank must be filled to a maximum of 44%, but not all the way, in order for the membrane apparatus to function.

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How to make a tank with your own hands

Boiler device architecture.

Such a tank for water and air can be made with your own hands. The tank is made of carbon steel. Any container with a volume of 10-12 liters is suitable for this purpose. It should be taken into account that its capacity should be at least 4% of the total volume of water circulating in the system. The capacity of the container can be determined by pouring water into it using a three-liter jar. Metal flasks from paintwork can be used for the tank. It is very important that the wall thickness was not less than 2.5 mm. Automobile fuel tanks are not quite suitable for this purpose, as their thickness is not very high. If you have available tanks of trucks, they will perfectly cope with the task set for them. The inner surface is coated with water-resistant paints and the outer surface is enameled. It is possible to use a piece of pipe, but only with a large cross-section (20-30 cm). But the best option is a stainless steel tank from a washing machine. Weld the tank can also be welded with a simple steel sheet with a thickness of 2.5-4 mm.

After the tank is selected, it is necessary to clean it. If it contains residues of fuel and lubricants, it is necessary to remove them by evaporation with hot water, brush. The tank needs to dry out. After that it is necessary to weld the fittings. It is desirable to weld the connector on the side at a height of 4-10 cm from the plane of the bottom. This will encourage the deposition of fine particles, rust, and other rust.They are needed to connect the tank to the pipes. The tank should be equipped with a bolted lid or a hatch. It is needed to be able to clean the tank periodically. In order to determine the water level in the tank, you can make a dipstick. For this purpose, a small airtight hole will need to be made in the tank.

Dimensions of the boiler parts scheme for the homemade boiler.

Next, a fitting is made of steel in accordance with the diameter of the hole. If the socket will be welded into the expansion tank, a screw plug made of brass or bronze will be required. It must have an edge for a wrench. A 4-5 mm thick rubber gasket is placed inside the plug. The dipstick itself is marked with divisions and kept outside the tank. To check the water level, first unscrew the plug, lower the dipstick into the tank (the dipstick should be dry), pull it out and screw the plug back in again. The threads on the connector should be lubricated with grease or oil, so that there are no problems with the opening. If the tank is built in the attic, it will need to be insulated. The outside and inside of the tank is coated with oil paint.

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List of tools and materials

You need the right tools in order to build a homemade tank. Bolgar, metal file, welding machine, tank container, set of fittings, bolts, rubber gaskets, electrodes for welding, oil paint, oil or grease, brush, hot water, pipe with 20–30 cm cross-section or steel sheets with 2.5–4 mm thickness, brass or bronze plug, insulation materials, wrench, gloves, and welding mask are among the items included.

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Technology of installation of the tank in the system

Schematic illustration of the waste heat boiler’s parts.

To install a membrane or simple cistern, you will need to know the basic steps of its installation. First you need to buy a container (tank) of the required volume, for example, 12-liter one. With the help of a pump, all the air is pumped out of it. After that we inflate it again with air up to 1.1 kPa. It is very important that the pressure in the system is higher than in the tank, about 0.1-0.2 kPa. Then turn off the boiler from the network, close all taps for water supply, drain the water from the batteries. To connect the tank and pipes, you will need a soldering machine, couplings and fittings (devices for joining parts). The fitting consists of 2 parts: one is screwed to the thread on the tank, and the second is soldered to the pipe itself. It is recommended to put the tank where the pressure is minimal.

For this purpose, the pipe through which the water comes from the battery to the gas boiler will be suitable. Next, cut the pipe in the place of installation of the tank, solder to this part of the tee, and to it weld the pipe and stopcock (it is necessary for repair without draining the water). The corners are needed for soldering and so that the container can be attached to it. After that, connect the tank by screwing on the second part of the fitting. It can be placed in the corner of the room. Next, the water filter is unscrewed and washed out. Then open the taps and fill the radiators to a pressure of 1.2-1.3 kPa. Remove excess air, turn on the boiler for heating. The heating system is ready.

Expansion tank for heating – types and installation

Any heating system needs components that can keep the coolant at the proper pressure, guard against hydrostroke, and adjust for variations in volume. This is the function of the expansion tank.

Why do you need an expansion tank for heating?

For normal functioning of the heating system and stable circulation of the coolant through all its elements, a stable pressure is necessary. Its sudden jumps lead to a violation of the hydraulic regime and improper operation of individual units. To avoid this, an expansion tank is provided in the system. Its task is to compensate for changes in the volume of the heat transfer fluid (water or antifreeze) caused by changes in its temperature and to reduce the possibility of hydrostroke. The change in the volume of the coolant is also influenced by its composition and the temperature coefficient. In the case of water, the average value of this coefficient is 4%, in the case of antifreeze, e.g. ethylene glycol – from 4.4 to 4.8% (depending on the concentration of glycol in antifreeze). The expansion tank is the tank where excess heat transfer fluid is discharged to maintain the necessary pressure in the network.

Different expansion tanks are used for different types of heating systems, whether they are closed or open. It is important to note right away that open systems, also known as systems with natural circulation or self-flow, are more common in older buildings than in newly constructed homes.

The tank in an open-type heating system

In such a system, the coolant – plain water – moves naturally according to the laws of physics due to the different densities of cold and hot water. This is also facilitated by the slope of the pipes. The heat carrier, heated to a high temperature, tends to rise at the boiler outlet, pushed upwards by cold water coming from the return pipe from below. This is how the natural circulation occurs, which results in the heating of the radiators. It is problematic to use antifreeze in a self-flowing system because the coolant in the expansion tank is open and evaporates quickly, so only water can be used in this capacity. When heated, it increases in volume and excess water flows into the tank and returns to the system when it cools down. The tank is located at the highest point of the circuit, usually in the attic. To prevent the water in the tank from freezing, it is insulated with insulation materials and connected to the return pipe to avoid boiling. In case the tank overflows, the water is discharged into the sewer system.

The heating system is known as an open heating system because the expansion tank is not covered by a lid. It is important to keep an eye on the tank’s water level to make sure air locks don’t occur in the pipeline and cause inefficient radiator operation. An expansion nozzle is used to link the tank to the network, and a circulation nozzle is included to guarantee water flow. Water enters thesystem and travels to thesignal spigot where the

Spigot. Water expansion is managed by an overflow connection. It is in charge of allowing the air inside the tank to circulate freely. The volume of water in the system must be known in order to compute the volume of an open-type tank.

The tank in a closed system

A closed loop system is a self-contained heating system where a circulation pump powers the coolant. It is distinguished by complete hermetic tightness and the absence of coolant contact with the surroundings. Its expansion tank is closed as well, preventing coolant from coming into contact with the air.

Expansion tank construction

Inside the red, gray, or white powder-coated carbon steel casing of the expansion tank is a rubber diaphragm, either balloon-shaped or of the diaphragm type. Larger tanks are typically utilized with the latter, and smaller ones with the former. Factory tanks occasionally have a safety valve installed to prevent the system from building up pressure above what is permitted. The valve opens, releasing extra water, if this occurs. It is preferable to feel secure and ensure that your product has one. If not, buy it and install it next to the tank.

Expansion tank with diaphragm in the form of a diaphragm. Such a device is more like a barrel, divided in two by a movable rubber partition. During production, air is pumped into the upper part of the tank to create the initial pressure. After the tank is connected, the mains heating medium begins to flow into the lower chamber of the tank. At the moment when the elastic diaphragm becomes in zero, calm position and as if lies on the surface of the coolant, the heating system is considered to be completely filled and ready for start-up. As the temperature of the heating medium rises, its volume increases and the excess is discharged into the expansion tank. Due to the compression of air, the diaphragm is pushed back into the air chamber, which makes the internal space of the tank larger and allows the excess coolant to enter it. As soon as the coolant cools down and returns to its original volume, the effect on the diaphragm stops and the air in the upper chamber, without opposition, brings the diaphragm back to its original, calm position, thus automatically regulating the pressure in the system.

Tanks with balloon-type membrane.

In this instance, the rubber chamber for the heat transfer medium is surrounded by the air chamber, which is situated around the outside of the entire tank. The latter expands like an inflated balloon when it gets there. It is feasible to regulate the system pressure more precisely because of this tank device.

It should be mentioned that diaphragm diaphragms cannot be replaced, but balloon diaphragms can be changed out as they wear out. The diaphragm’s material holds great significance. It should be highly elastic and thermally stable at the same time. You should educate yourself on the features of the membrane, such as its longevity, resistance to water, and adherence to hygienic and sanitary standards, before selecting a tank.

Operational scheme of the expansion tank

How to calculate the volume of the expansion tank?

The expansion tank’s design does not call for any complex technical solutions, but a mistake in the volume calculation could result in equipment failure and the heating system failing altogether. A tank that is too big would not be able to generate enough pressure in the network, while a tank that is too small would not be able to hold all of the excess coolant.

Determining the total volume of the heating network is necessary to perform an accurate calculation. To accomplish this, add the boiler’s volume, the system’s total pipe volume, and the volume of any additional heating devices.

Formula for calculating the volume of the expansion tank:

KE stands for the overall heating system volume. Based on the equation that I kW of heating equipment capacity equals 15 liters of coolant volume, this indicator is computed. The total volume of the system is KE = 15 x 40 = 600 liters if the boiler output is 40 kW;

Z is the coolant’s temperature coefficient value. As was previously mentioned, it is roughly 4% for water and between 4.4 and 4.8% for antifreeze at various concentrations, such as 10–20% ethylene glycol;

N is the membrane tank efficiency value, which is based on the system’s starting and maximum pressures as well as the chamber’s initial air pressure. Usually, the manufacturer specifies this parameter, but if it’s not available, you can figure it out on your own using the following formula:

DV is the maximum pressure value that is allowed within the network. It typically equals the safety valve’s allowable pressure and seldom rises above 2.5–3 atm for typical residential heating systems;

DS is the membrane tank’s initial charging pressure, measured in millibars (atm) per kilometer of heating system length.

Consequently, based on the data received, the expansion tank volume at 40 kW boiler output can be calculated:

42,1 l is equal to 600 x 0,04/0,57.

It is advised to use a 50 l tank with an initial pressure of 0.5 atm since the final product selection values should be marginally higher than the computed values. A small overflow in the tank volume is preferable to a small underflow. Additionally, experts recommend selecting a tank 50% larger than the calculated volume when using antifreeze in the system.

Installation of the expansion tank

The expansion tank is situated on the return line next to the boiler for convenience of maintenance. It is frequently installed with the inlet valve (water connection) facing downward. This makes it possible to drain the coolant even in the event that the diaphragm fails. Another viewpoint holds that the coolant ought to enter the tank from above. which is more accurate because it prevents air from entering the tank’s liquid-designated compartment.

It is preferable for the tank to be placed in front of the circulation pump to prevent head surges. It is attached to the return pipeline to avoid "boiling," and it is advised to install a pressure gauge and a manual pressure adjustment valve. Following installation, it’s important to make sure the device’s working pressure matches the necessary pressure. If not, you should pump the container and release the air until the diaphragm’s pressure is acceptable.

The following are some of the most typical errors made when installing an expansion tank for heating:

• Use of sealing materials not designed for this purpose. For example, a cheap PVC window sealant designed for a completely different temperature regime. Initially, the joints may look quite attractive, but when the heating system is started, such a seal will not withstand high temperatures. At least after that it will be necessary to deal with the elimination of leaks;
• inappropriate installation location, where the tank is difficult to access;
• Incorrect calculation of the volume of the expansion tank or selecting it by eye.

When to use antifreeze

It’s not always a good idea to add antifreeze, which is essentially water mixed with ethylene glycol, to the heating system.

Water that has been prepared correctly has a higher thermal conductivity than this.

However, there are some circumstances where using a non-freezing liquid is required, such as when heating pipes could be exposed to below-freezing temperatures.

This can occur when the system is left unattended for an extended period of time during the winter or when the mains are installed outside (for example, from the house to the garage). Heaters and pipes will undoubtedly burst when water turns from a liquid to a solid state.

Pressure fluctuations in the heating system

Pressure surges are a sign of a malfunction or malfunction of the heating system. If the pressure drops. In this case it is necessary to check how the static pressure behaves, for which purpose the pump should be stopped. If it does not drop, it means that the circulation pumps are faulty, which for some reason can not create water pressure. If the static pressure is also decreasing, there is probably a leak somewhere in the pipelines of the house or in the heat exchanger of the boiler (which happens quite often). You can find this spot by disconnecting different sections and monitoring the pressure in the system. If the situation normalizes at the next cut-off, it means that there is a water leak in this section of the network. If the pressure is rising. There can be several reasons for this.

1. A common cause is when there is an interruption or lack of coolant flow in the circuit. This may occur when the house heating regulator shuts off the boiler house’s coolant supply to lower the network temperature. In this situation, the regulator’s inertia will increase, so it is necessary to check and adjust the settings to prevent this from happening. However, these situations will not always arise.

2. Another explanation for this could be that the system is constantly being recharged. A straightforward calculation demonstrates that the pressure increases with the amount of coolant in a given volume. In this instance, turning off the supply line and adjusting the automatics will suffice.

3. An improperly chosen pipe diameter may also be the cause. At the boiler outlet pipe, it ought to be the biggest.

4. The circulation pump’s increased capacity or operational issues could be the root of the issue.

5. A blocked valve or gate valve may be somewhere along the coolant flow if there is nothing wrong with the control devices or if the heating system does not turn them on at all.

Diaphragm types for expansion tanks

The type of rubber used in the construction of the expansion tank diaphragm directly affects its lifespan. The most widely used type of rubber worldwide is SBR. To mention shoe soles and car wheel chambers would be sufficient. Its mechanical properties are good, and it has an 800% stretch capacity. Range of resistance to temperature: -50 to 100 "C. This rubber is only utilized for heating network expansion tanks because it is unsuitable for use in systems that handle drinking water. When temperatures rise above 100 degrees Celsius, the rubber rapidly ages, loses its elasticity, and degrades.

Rubber MR (BUTILE)

This kind of rubber operates in the temperature range of -40 to 130 °Ρ and has a high resistance to high temperatures. Drinking water may come into contact with the substance. Hydraulic accumulators employ it.

Rubber EPDM It has a high resistance to aging and degradation, making it appropriate for drinking water systems. Temperature range for operation: -50 to 130 "C. Since this is a fairly costly product that satisfies all hygienic and sanitary requirements, top manufacturers use this kind of rubber to make the membranes for their expansion tanks.

An enhanced form of EPDM rubber is called NBR (NITRILE) rubber.

It can function at temperatures as high as 100 "C and is also employed in the membrane-making process. resistant to oils, vegetable fats, butane, propane, gasoline, and antifreeze.

It is imperative that you comprehend the significance of an expansion tank if you want to maintain a warm and energy-efficient house. The expansion tank is a crucial part of your heating system that helps control pressure to avoid damage and guarantee efficient operation. Although building your own expansion tank may seem difficult, it is very doable with the correct advice. You can build your own expansion tank to meet the requirements of your heating system by adhering to a few easy steps and taking necessary safety precautions. This article will walk you through the entire process, from material selection to installation techniques, giving you the confidence to take charge of the insulation and heating in your house.

Pressure in the heating system

The pressure in the network is caused by several factors. It characterizes the impact of the coolant on the walls of the system elements. Before filling with water, the pressure in the pipes is equal to 1 atm. However, as soon as the process of heating medium filling starts, this indicator changes. Even when the heating medium is cold, there is pressure in the pipeline. The reason for this is the different location of the system elements – with an increase in height by 1 m, 0.1 atm is added. This type of influence is called static, and this parameter is used in the design of heating networks with natural circulation. In a closed heating system, the coolant expands during heating, and the pipes are overpressurized. Depending on the design of the main line, it can vary in different sections, and if at the design stage do not provide stabilizing devices, there is a risk of system failure.

There are no pressure standards for stand-alone heating systems. Its value is calculated depending on the parameters of the equipment, the characteristics of the pipes, also take into account the floor of the house. It is necessary to follow the rule that the value of pressure in the network should correspond to its minimum value in the weakest link of the system. It is also necessary to remember about the obligatory difference of 0.3-0,5 atm. between the pressure in the direct and return pipes of the boiler, which is one of the mechanisms for maintaining normal circulation of the coolant. Taking all this into account, the pressure should be within the range from i .5 to 2.5 atm. To control the pressure in different points of the network, pressure gauges are inserted, which record the low and excess values. In the event that the meter should not only serve for visual control, but also work in the automation system, use electrocontact or other types of sensors.

1. The density of heated water is less than that of cold water. The difference in these values leads to the fact that the hydrostatic pressure is created, promoting hot water to the radiators
2. For expansion tanks the most informative are the maximum allowable values of temperature and pressure.
3. According to manufacturers, in modern tanks, the temperature of the coolant can reach 120 "C, and the operating pressure up to 4 atm. at peak values of up to 10 bar

Expansion tank with your own hands (homemade) – video

DIY expansion tank

Make with your own hands: expansion tank for heating system

The majority of private homes and residential apartments have water heating systems installed. Its location and operation scheme must be carefully considered in order for it to operate without malfunctions. It is common knowledge that water expands when heated, and an expansion tank is used to keep the system from being overloaded. We’ll teach you how to construct an excellent pressure stabilizer—an open or closed expansion tank—by hand. We also suggest getting acquainted with the photo selection that is included in the content.

Expansion tanks in different heating systems

The heating system in any type of building, whether residential or commercial, can be represented by one of the following models: autonomous open/closed type or centralized.

Let’s examine the functions and design elements of the expansion tank for the most popular systems in more detail.

Centralized configuration. An air-expansion valve at the top of the sealed expansion tank allows extra air to be released.

Pay heed. Because of its small passage diameter, the Maevsky valve should not be used as it may cause the heating system’s air to leak out for an excessively long period of time.

The tank is situated at the uppermost point of the heating system’s upper spill. When it operates, the downward-moving heat source tends to push air in that direction. In the basement, the system is activated by opening the circuit gate valves and releasing the air in the tank.

Self-contained system of an open type. Everything is very simply organized in this system. An expansion tank is a construction that is impervious to leaks and is covered to keep out dust and moisture. Convection allows for the movement of coolant in an open heating system. As a result, the air in the expansion tank, which serves as both the circuit’s highest point and a means of compensating for the heat transfer medium’s expansion upon contact with the heat source, is directly exposed to the air in this instance.

Self-contained system of an open type

Autonomous closed-type system. Within this system, a container split in half by a unique rubber membrane serves as the tank’s representation. There is air in one area of the tank. The liquid from the system is in the other. This design keeps oxygen-rich air from building up inside the heating system, which would otherwise damage radiators and pipes.

A circulation pump moves the coolant throughout the heating system. In this instance, the coolant is able to expand while the heating system is operating because the tank is merely a reserve volume container and the heating circuit is isolated from the outside world.

Closed, self-contained system

Making an expansion tank with your own hands

Making an expansion tank by hand is very realistic. All that will be needed for this is a few specific tools and supplies, as well as diligence and focus.

List of necessary materials and tools

The following equipment and supplies are required to build an expansion tank:

• welding machine;
• locksmith tools;
• electrodes;
• oil paint;
• metal for creating the tank capacity;
• brass plug
• welding mask;
• rubber gaskets;
• 200-300 mm pipes.

The process of creating the construction

It is important to clarify one thing first. It is advisable to manufacture an expansion tank exclusively for an open-type heating system at home. This is mostly because, in the case of a tank with a diaphragm, the only steps that require significant effort, time, and financial resources are choosing the best diaphragm and tapping the nipple.

Therefore, sheet metal and leftover pipe are needed to build the structure. Next, we welded a standard square or rectangular box.

A lot of professionals suggest that the expansion tank’s working material for heating be stainless steel. This is sound advice, provided that all of the pipes in the heating system are composed of polymers or stainless steel. In all other circumstances, regular "black" steel that is at least 3 mm thick will work.

First things first, the future expansion tank’s volume needs to be ascertained. 10% of the total amount of coolant in the heating system is the standard amount.

Now let’s get to work. Five steel blanks for the future tank are produced with the assistance of a Bulgarian machine. After that, weld them together vertically to create a seamless seam. After that, all that’s left to do is drill a hole in the tank’s bottom, and the basic construction is complete.

Advice: A paint can or a truck fuel tank can also be used to create the tank; a passenger car’s tank should not be considered because it is typically too thin.

We then proceed to clean the interior surface using a brush and hot water to remove any remaining combustible mixture. Allow the container to air dry after cleaning is finished. Make a hatch or prepare a lid for the tank and fasten it on.

Create a steel blank for the fitting and weld it into the tank once the lid work is finished. Make sure you use a brass plug and remember to cover it with a roughly 0.5 cm thick rubber gasket. To make it simpler to unscrew the socket in the future, make sure to oil or grease the threads.

Oil paint is applied to the entire surface of the ready tank (inside if possible).

The expansion tank should be adequately insulated to avoid the possibility of the liquid inside freezing because it will be housed in the attic.

Useful tips from professionals

Lastly, we encourage you to become acquainted with some helpful pointers that could help you avoid making specific mistakes when working:

1. As you may have guessed, the real volume of the expansion tank is calculated according to a complex formula and, if you are not an expert, you should not be too hard and delve into the numbers – take as a basis the standard accepted figure of 10% of the total volume of the coolant.
2. If the safety valve in the heating system is triggered too often during the operation of the home-made expansion tank, this indicates that the volume of the tank has been calculated incorrectly. And this, in turn, means that you have made a mistake with the calculation of the total volume of coolant in the system. The solution in this situation is quite simple: add another expansion tank to the system, which will compensate for the missing volume.
3. In order to install the piping correctly, special attention should be paid to only two places in the system: the place where the coolant enters the expansion tank (should be at the top) and the place where it leaves (at the bottom).
4. To avoid boiling of liquid in the expansion tank, take care of two things: a properly chosen diameter of pipes and the presence of a slope of the circuits.

We have given you a general understanding of expansion tanks in the heating system and have even included instructions on how to create a successful design on your own. We hope fortune favors you!

Expansion tank: video

Materials Needed	Step-by-Step Instructions
1. Pressure tank	1. Choose a suitable pressure tank size based on your water system"s needs.
2. Pressure gauge	2. Install a pressure gauge to monitor the tank"s pressure.
3. Piping and fittings	3. Gather necessary piping and fittings for connecting the tank to the water system.
4. Teflon tape or thread sealant	4. Use Teflon tape or thread sealant to ensure tight connections and prevent leaks.
5. Wrenches	5. Have wrenches on hand for tightening connections securely.
6. Safety equipment	6. Wear safety glasses and gloves when working with tools and materials.
7. Water pump	7. Ensure the water pump is turned off before starting installation.
8. Support bracket or platform	8. If needed, construct or purchase a support bracket or platform to mount the tank securely.

It can be difficult to build or upgrade a heating system for your house, but it can go more smoothly if you know what basic parts to look for, like the expansion tank. You may avoid paying professional installation fees and acquire important knowledge about your home’s heating system by learning how to install and maintain an expansion tank yourself.

A vital component in keeping pressure from building up inside your heating system is an expansion tank. Without it, large temperature swings can harm systems and necessitate expensive repairs or even system failure. Installing an expansion tank ensures the safe and effective operation of your heating system by acting as a buffer for expanding water.

It’s crucial to carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions when doing a do-it-yourself installation. Make sure you install your expansion tank in the proper location and select the appropriate size and type for your system. By taking these safety measures, you can extend the life of your expansion tank and reduce the possibility of problems later on.

Maintaining your expansion tank correctly is essential to its continued operation. Check for leaks, corrosion, or other damage indicators on a regular basis, and take quick action to fix any problems found. In order to maintain peak performance, other necessary chores that should be completed on a regular basis include flushing the tank and checking the air pressure.

To sum up, even though installing and maintaining an expansion tank can initially seem daunting, it’s a doable task that can significantly improve the heating system in your home. You can guarantee the comfort and security of your house for many years to come by taking the time to comprehend its significance and learn how to properly maintain it.