Electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands – requirements, project preparation and step-by-step installation guide

Proper electrical wiring is essential to guaranteeing your home’s comfort and safety. One cannot stress how crucial careful wiring is in a wooden house, as the structure is especially prone to fire hazards. It not only powers your lights and appliances, but it is essential to preserving the structural integrity of your house. We’ll go over the necessary specifications, setup procedures, and a thorough installation process for electrical wiring in a wooden house in this guide.

It’s important to comprehend the fundamental rules and specifications governing electrical installations in residential properties before getting into the specifics of wiring. These regulations are in place to protect building occupants and reduce the possibility of electrical fires. Knowing these specifications will help you maintain compliance and ensure your home has a dependable and effective electrical system.

The next stage after laying the foundation is to draft an extensive project plan for your electrical wiring. This entails evaluating the design of your house, figuring out where switches and outlets should be placed, estimating load needs, and choosing the right supplies and tools. Making a plan in advance will expedite the installation procedure and reduce the likelihood of issues later on.

With a well-thought-out plan in place, it’s now time to dig in and begin the installation process. Even though electrical work can be intimidating for those who are not experienced, it is completely possible to complete the task on your own with the right advice and safety precautions. We’ll provide you a step-by-step walkthrough of every wiring step, from running cables to connecting outlets and switches, in the sections that follow.

Wiring requirements

When building private housing, wood is the most common material used. Wood is an easily flammable and fire-hazardous material, despite its benefits.

Regardless of the material—brick, concrete, gas-silicate blocks, timber—open flames spread to the room’s furnishings and interior décor when a fire breaks out. Everything in the room burns first, followed by the load-bearing walls, partitions, and roofing.

Fundamental specifications for electrical wiring in wood-framed buildings:

• Safety – the wiring should be laid in such a way as to minimize the probability of overheating and ignition of the cable, as well as to prevent the transmission of open flames to adjacent wooden structures.
• Design – the technical characteristics and performance of the wires and components used must be matched to the design peak load of the particular section of the power grid. To prevent heating, the cable cross-section is selected with a reserve of 20-30%.
• Method of laying – electrification of wooden buildings should preferably be carried out in the open method. This allows unobstructed and with constant periodicity to carry out diagnostics of the electric network condition.
• Insulation – the location of the entry point (electrical panel) must be insulated from interfaces with wooden structures. Ideally, the electrical panel will be installed in a room with a partition made of non-combustible materials.
• Conductor – as a conductor it is better to use a three-core copper cable with insulation from non-combustible materials. It is strictly forbidden to lay cables in PVC corrugations.
• Automatics – a circuit breaker must be installed for each group in the electrical network. The current rating of the switch is selected in accordance with the load on the site. It is not recommended to overestimate the current rating, as this will lead to overheating of the conductor.

Installing an electrical network and laying power cables on your own without the necessary experience is not advised; instead, hire professionals. However, every private home owner needs to be aware of the fundamentals of electrification. This will enable him to oversee the caliber of work performed by employed electricians and diagnose the current wiring.

Regulatory documents

The primary guide for designing electrical wiring is the device of electrical installations regulations.

The following documents provide general wiring requirements and guidelines:

1. PUE, edition 7 is the main document used in the design of the electrical network. It describes in detail the selection of conductor, switchgear, automatics and lighting.
2. SNiP 3.05-06-85 – wiring in old and new houses. Methods of supply and rules of power cable entry into the residential premises.
3. SNiP 31-02 – requirements for the electrical supply system in residential buildings. The document complies with the norms and rules described in the PUE.

The technical language used to describe the information in these sources may make it difficult for someone who is not qualified to understand. We advise using the "Rules of the device of electrical installations" as a reference when studying on your own because it most concisely explains the terms and ideas required for installing wiring in private homes.

Preparation of power supply project

An illustration of two wiring schemes in a wooden house

The creation of a single project is the first step in electrifying a residential home. To achieve this, an application must be submitted to the JSC "Regional Electric Networks" branch at the resident’s address.

A contract and the technical requirements required for connection to the local electrical network will be prepared following the governing body’s review of the application. After that, you can move on to the power supply design, which is completed in the order listed below:

• Total power – on the basis of available household appliances, the total power consumption is calculated with a reserve of 30%.
• Project – taking into account the plan of the residential building, a scheme is drawn out showing the input cable, electrical panel, wiring, socket groups, lighting, etc. д.
• Cable cross-section – for each group in the electrical system, the type and cross-section of conductor is selected.

Residential building’s power supply scheme in accordance with the Euro standard

The PUE should serve as a guide when drafting the project. This document states that electrical wiring must be installed strictly vertically or horizontally. Ninety degrees is the ideal rotational angle.

The junction boxes, switches, and socket group need to be placed in accessible, open spaces. Switches are typically mounted 80–150 cm from the floor, and the socket or outlet group is located 50–80 cm from the floor. There are one to six different sockets. The precise ratio is determined by the room’s dimensions, but it shouldn’t be less than one per 6 m^2.

It is important to remember that the minimum distance between openings in a cable route design should not be less than 10 cm. The cable is diverted by 15 to 30 centimeters in any convenient direction in case it comes into contact with any metal objects along the route.

Selection of wire and devices

Wire cross-section for electrical wiring considering the overall power of the network

Private power grids use two types of cables: VVGng and NYM. Power cables of the NYM type, which meet European standards, are used to lay electrical networks with nominal voltages no higher than 660 V. VVGng cable operates in networks with a constant voltage of no more than 1 kW. It is a bare power cable with double vinyl braiding.

The unit of measurement for electrical wiring cross-section is "mm 2". Two digits are used to indicate the marking, which is applied to the cable insulation. The number of wires inside the single insulation is indicated by the first digit. The conductor’s cross-sectional area is represented by the second digit. For instance, when an electrician states that you require a 1.5 square meter, three-core copper cable, what they really mean is a 3 x 1.5 mm NYM cable.

A special table is the most convenient way to find the minimum cross section of a power cable core for a specific network segment. Given that it is applied in apartment building electrical network design, this approach is tried and true. The image above shows the table used to choose the conductor’s cross-section.

Copper cable with a cross-section of 2,5–4 mm is typically used for outlet groups, and aluminum cable with a cross-section of 1,5-2,5 mm is typically used for lighting. It is advised to use only copper wiring for wooden houses because it will prevent the electrical network from overheating.

Wire with varying cross sections for installing electrical wiring in a home made of wood

Every electrical network segment, according to the PUE, has a circuit breaker and protective disconnection device that are made for the proper current indicators. The standard formula -I = P/U-cosφ is utilized to determine the current intensity, where:

• I is the current strength;
• P – total power of electrical appliances connected to one section of the power grid;
• U – voltage in the power grid;
• cosφ – constant coefficient. In household networks is almost always equal to 1.

For instance, the current strength of a portion of the network that will be connected to 3 kW of household equipment must be determined. I equals 13,64 A (3000 / 220). It turns out that this section will require an RCD and diphathomat, which are intended for a rated current of 16A, after accounting for a small reserve and rounding.

Circuit breakers and RCDs for electrical wiring

The minimum short-circuit current must be calculated (Ikz = 3260 x S/L, where S is the conductor cross-section in millimeters and L is the conductor length in meters) in order to identify the type of circuit breaker. Generally, automatic machines of type "C" are used in networks with a mixed load, which will be found in most private homes.

Electrical appliance power is taken into consideration while choosing outlets. These are usually 16A current-rated earthed sockets. It’s important to keep in mind that installing a socket group for two to three appliances in a room where multiple electrical appliances are anticipated is preferable to using a "tee" later on.

Selection of input cable and automatics

The electric meter and the RCD with the attached input cable are located on the left.

Analogously to the conductor for local sections of the electrical network, the input cable and circuit breaker are chosen. To do this, add up the maximum power of all connected appliances to determine the expected load on the network. The operating instructions or specification list the device’s power.

The inlet circuit breaker is chosen based on the rated currents and network phase, ensuring that only the circuit breaker in the electrical panel breaks during peak load and not the building itself.

One or two-pole automatic circuit breakers are used for electrical wiring in private wooden houses; they are installed after the electric meter. Additional information regarding the diphthalmat and RCD selection process’s current calculation was covered in the section before this one.

Type of single-phase supply

Diagram schematic for the single-phase power supply network device

Private homes and standard apartments are most frequently electrified using a single-phase electrical network. In a single-phase network, the nominal voltage of current is 220 V at a frequency of 50 Hz.

A two- or three-core power cable is used to supply the building; it is led from the local substation to the electrical distribution board located inside the structure.

A two-core cable without grounding is utilized in the first scenario. A three-core cable with a working "phase" (L), return "zero" (N), and protective earth is used in the second scenario.

Maybe the retro-style electrical wiring arrangement will appeal to you. View our next resource for more information about installing the system in a wooden house: https://aqua-rmnt.com/ehlektrosnabzhenie/retro-provodka-v-derevyannom-dome.html.

Installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands – step-by-step instructions

If the distribution board is to be installed in a specific room with a concrete wall or partition, that would be ideal.

There are multiple steps involved in installing electrical wiring in a wooden house: power cable supply, distribution board installation, cable route laying, switch and socket installation, contact connection, and operability testing.

An electric drill with a crown nozzle, a screwdriver, a Phillips and slotted screwdriver, an indicator screwdriver, and safety rubberized gloves are needed to complete the task.

Installation of the switchboard

Distribution board for 12–24 modules in a private residence

A distribution board is a device that distributes incoming electrical energy and accepts power cables. Electrical equipment that is in charge of the electrical system’s connection, accounting, safety, and proper operation is housed inside the shield.

The manufacturer’s pre-made distribution boards are a metal, plastic, or hybrid box with a door, neutral busbar, grounding busbar, and din-rail. The number of modules to be utilized determines the switchboard’s size. A switchboard with 12–15 modules is adequate for wooden homes.

The switchboard must be installed in multiple steps:

1. The switchboard is mounted vertically 120-150 cm from the floor level. Optimally, the surface to be contacted should be made of concrete, brick or gas silicate block. In a wooden house, it is better to allocate a special utility room, where it is possible to equip a suitable surface.
2. To install the switchboard it is necessary to remove the front part with the door, which is fixed with plastic latches or small screws. A marking is made on the wall surface and holes are drilled for plastic plugs.

An illustration of switchboard layouts in a residential setting

In switchboards intended for 16–24 modules, two din-rails are typically present. It is preferable to install the meter, RCD, and input automatic circuit breaker in the necessary quantity on the upper rail.

There will be circuit breakers on the bottom din-rail. Faster and more convenient connections will be possible with this kind of module distribution. Once every component has been installed, it is advised to group the modules by labeling them. The video below illustrates the switchboard assembly process.

Video on the topic: assembly and layout of the distribution board

Cable entry into the premises

Installing the power cable through the air to the residential home

There are two ways to enter a residential building with power cables: underground and through the air. Since corrugated pipe will be used to protect armored cable, the first method is more dependable. In this instance, a layer of 30 to 40 cm of earth will cover the wiring.

To lay the cable, a trench is dug that is between 70 and 80 cm deep. The trench’s bottom is filled with a layer of fine sand that is 15-20 cm thick and thoroughly compacted. After that, the armored cable is passed through a protective corrugation that has been laid on top of the sand cushion. Next, a layer of sand, about 10 to 15 cm thick, is applied to the corrugated pipe. At last, the pipe is fully submerged beneath the earth.

Underground power cable installation for the residential building

When there is too much space between the house and the substation, the cable is routed through the air. A cable with a supporting cable that is stretched between the support and the dwelling structure is used for this purpose. An intermediate support is erected between the pole and the house if the distance between them is greater than 20 meters.

At the point of connection, a non-flammable sleeve is installed when introducing a power cable through a load-bearing wall. The cable should ideally be installed as close as possible to the switchboard location.

Installation of surface-mounted switches and sockets

Before installation, the cover and front portion of the socket must be removed.

Surface-mounted outlets and switches are utilized in both exposed and covered wiring configurations. Since the technology used to install switches and sockets is similar, let’s use the Schneider Electric switch installation process as an example.

The following steps are involved in the installation process:

1. Carefully pull out the switch key. This is done by grasping the edges of the key and pulling it toward you.
2. Carefully remove the front panel of the product. To do this, unclip the plastic clips on the edges of the switch and remove the panel.

Disassembly and dowel nail mounting of the socket on the wall

"Zero" and "phase" connections to the socket terminals

Lastly, the final assembly is completed and the switch’s operability is verified. The overhead socket installation technology is similar. Three-core cables are typically used to connect outlets, so when connecting, a yellow-green cable (ground) is connected to the center terminal.

Connection of wires and contacts

Terminal block fastened with fastening screws

"Twists" are not permitted when installing electrical wiring in a wooden house. A single piece of wire used to cover the portion of the cable that goes from the switchgear to the point of consumption is ideal.

Before cutting the cable, this needs to be marked on the wall. After measuring the cable route with a tape measure, cut the cable with a 20 cm margin.

Wago terminal blocks for electrical linkages

If a cable connection is necessary, the following is preferable:

1. Terminal block – subdivided into products with a tightening screw and clamping plates. The latter are more optimal, since a plate is used for the contact between the cable and the busbar, which does not damage the conductive core.
2. Spring clamp – the simplest and most effective method of connection, in which the core is held and contacted with the plate by a spring clip. Can be used to connect both aluminum and copper cables.

We advise using terminal clamps from Wago when installing electrical wiring in a wooden house. Products are distinguished by excellent assembly quality and a wide selection of products for cables with various cross sections. Just strip the cable by 10 mm, raise the clamping levers to make the connection, and lead the cable into the terminal hole.

Ways of open wiring placement

Included information on retro-wiring using ceramic insulators and sockets.

The best way to install electrical wiring in a wooden house is to open the wiring. Since ancient times, the cable has been laid openly from the distribution board to the point of consumption; formerly, the cable was set up on ceramic insulators. In this manner, there is no direct electrical contact with the wooden wall.

This technology, which goes by the name of "retro-wiring," is currently utilized in rooms with peak power values under 4 kW. There are numerous drawbacks and restrictions with this technology in residential buildings with high peak loads.

A wooden house with exposed wiring and no extra insulation

For the open wiring device that is frequently used:

1. Electrical conductors with a cross-section of up to 6 mm2 can be mounted directly on the wall surface. To fix the cable, special clips made of non-combustible plastic are used. When choosing a cable, special preference should be given to products with copper conductors with double and triple braiding. When using a cable with conventional insulation, the wiring is protected by a non-flammable gasket, which is fixed along the route and protrudes on both sides of the conductor by 8-10 mm.
2. Installing cables in polymer cable ducts. The cable channel is selected taking into account decorative and technical requirements. There are products both for single conductors and for a group of parallel power lines. Cable channel is mounted on self-tapping screws on wood, and to protect the wiring is used plastic or metal face cover. If repairs are necessary, the cover can be easily removed.

A wooden house with exposed wiring in the cable ducts

Some homeowners employ a combination strategy. Metal corrugations are used as turning elements, and steel straight pipe is used to lay cable in straight sections. Although this method cannot be deemed aesthetically pleasing, it is incredibly dependable. For safety purposes, the ground loop needs to be connected to all metal pipes and other components.

Video on the topic: outdoor wiring in cable ducts

Concealed wiring in a wooden house

Plug installation and hidden wiring in a wooden home

Due to the considerable labor involved in the cable-laying process, hidden wiring has not become very popular in private housing arrangements. A lot of homeowners don’t want to cover the interior area, which makes hidden installation inappropriate.

Generally speaking, the following specifications are taken into consideration when installing hidden wiring in a wooden house:

• Electrical wiring is placed in a non-combustible sheathing. For example, it can be a steel pipe or a metal corrugation. The inner surface of the steel pipes must be galvanized. It is not permitted to lay bare cables without additional protection.
• The horizontal section of the pipe should be laid with a slope to allow condensate to drain to the bottom of the pipe. If necessary, small holes are drilled in places where moisture is expected to accumulate. Turning sections of the pipe are made of threaded elements, which are connected by welding or soldering.
• Sub-sockets for sockets and switches should be made of metal and connected to the ground bar. The place where the pipe enters the socket is sealed securely. A special plastic plug is installed at the cable outlet from the pipe.

Grounding and installation of RCDs

Digging a trench and installing an earthing circuit close to a residential structure

A complete grounding circuit must be set up in addition to the junction box’s grounding bar to guarantee the dependable protection of electrical devices and home appliances with metal housing.

To accomplish this, you must take the following actions:

Three bars of rebar with a cross-section of 30 and a length of about 3 meters are required for the device of the circuit. Under the circuit is dug trench in the shape of a triangle with sides 1-1.5 m. The depth of the pit 30-50 cm. Reinforcement bars are hammered in the corners of the trench.

The wiring’s connection point to the external earthing circuit

A 50–70 cm long rebar bar is welded in the corner of the house’s immediate vicinity. The reinforcement should ideally protrude 20 to 30 centimeters above the ground following backfilling. The rod-fixed copper cable, which is installed in the switchboard and connected to RCDs, has a cross-section of 2.5–4 mm.

Mistakes during installation

When installing wiring in a wooden house, two of the most frequent errors are using PVC corrugations and plastic subplugs.

Statistics show that violations made during the installation and use of electrical wiring are the main reason for fires in wooden houses. Among the primary errors are the subsequent ones:

• Concealed wiring under the ceiling – laying cable without additional insulation in the interfloor ceilings in close proximity to wooden surfaces. If the cross-section of the cable is selected incorrectly, it will lead to its rapid overheating and burnout, which in this case is fraught with fire.
• Cable routing under the skirting board – a small space and contact of the cable with a wooden or plastic skirting board can cause it to overheat. The cable can be laid under the skirting board, but it must be a special construction with gaps of 10-15 mm.
• Use of corrugated PVC pipes – when installing wiring in wooden houses, you should avoid using corrugated PVC pipes. It is better to replace them with loose cable ducts or metal corrugations.
• Laying the cable in a cavity without insulation – in the case of concealed installation, it is allowed to use a pre-prepared cavity. But the cable must be laid in a metal corrugation or steel pipe.

The only metal products that should be used as outlets and switch boxes are those that are firmly attached to insulating pipes. Plastic boxes don’t offer enough protection against overheating, and if wiring ignites, they could spread the fire.

For any homeowner, ensuring the effectiveness and safety of electrical wiring in a wooden house is crucial. With due diligence and by using a methodical approach, you can confidently take on this task.

It is imperative to prepare the project thoroughly before beginning installation. This includes being aware of the building codes and electrical work regulations in your area. Making a thorough plan and evaluating your home’s electrical requirements will also expedite the installation process.

For the actual installation, a step-by-step manual can be quite helpful. Start by carefully planning where switches, outlets, and fixtures should be placed to ensure maximum accessibility and functionality. Next, decide which wiring materials are suitable for your home’s needs and that adhere to safety regulations.

Paying close attention to details is essential when installing new hardware. Be cautious when installing wiring, keeping an eye out for any potential dangers like jagged edges or high tension. To further reduce the possibility of electrical shocks or fires, take extra care when grounding electrical systems.

Extensive testing is necessary after installation to ensure that everything is operating as planned. Inspecting for correct connections, voltage levels, and the lack of any flaws or anomalies is part of this. It is strongly advised to seek inspection and validation from a qualified electrician if in doubt.

In conclusion, installing electrical wiring in a wooden house may seem difficult, but it is doable if the right planning and safety precautions are taken. You can guarantee a safe and dependable electrical system for your house by adhering to the specified requirements, creating a thorough project plan, and carefully carrying out the installation.

In this comprehensive guide on electrical wiring in a wooden house, we cover everything you need to know to ensure safety and efficiency. We begin with the essential requirements, emphasizing the importance of adherence to building codes and safety standards. Then, we dive into project preparation, outlining the tools and materials needed, as well as considerations for planning the layout of your electrical system. Finally, we provide a step-by-step installation guide, walking you through the process from start to finish. Whether you"re a DIY enthusiast or a homeowner embarking on a renovation project, this article will equip you with the knowledge and confidence to tackle electrical wiring in your wooden house with ease and precision.

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