Electric warm floor without screed

Insulation and heating are two important aspects of maintaining a comfortable and cozy home. Conventional techniques, such as underfloor heating systems or radiators, frequently call for intricate installations, such as covering the heating components with concrete screed. However, electric heated floors without the need for a screed could be the answer you’ve been looking for if you want a more straightforward and effective option.

Without the inconvenience of a drawn-out installation procedure, picture yourself stepping onto your floor on a chilly morning and feeling a soft warmth emanating from beneath your feet. That exact convenience is provided by electric heated floors. They don’t require a thick layer of concrete on top because they use cutting-edge technology to deliver effective heating. This lowers the overall cost and setup time for your heating system in addition to making the installation simpler.

The adaptability of electric heated floors without screed is one of their main benefits. In contrast to conventional underfloor heating systems, which might not be appropriate for specific flooring kinds or remodeling projects, these systems are installable in different environments. Electric warm floors provide flexibility to meet your needs whether you’re building a new home, remodeling an old one, or just want to add warmth to certain rooms like kitchens or bathrooms.

One other noteworthy advantage of electric heated floors without screed is their energy efficiency. With no needless energy loss, these systems are made to heat your house effectively and provide warmth where you need it. They can lower heating costs and increase your home’s overall energy efficiency by dispersing heat evenly across the floor surface.

Electric warm floor without screed

Everything is so much simpler when there is an electric warm floor. Despite being ideal for floating floors, infrared film is typically difficult to install in screed. The heating cable is typically utilized in spaces where ceramic tiles are intended to be installed on the floor. Furthermore, applying a layer of tile glue to the cable (or heating mat) is far simpler than dealing with concrete. It is important to keep in mind that in order to prevent heat loss, the base beneath an electric heated floor must also be well-insulated.

A layer of tile glue is applied over the problem-free electric warm floor cable.

Let us finally assume that, in theory, it is possible to gather the rack or flooring warm floor design and that the pipes can be laid independently. Installation-related issues with electrical heating elements don’t exist. However, these responsible tasks, such as switching electric systems or connecting a water floor’s water circuit to the collector, should only be handled by experts.

Installation of a warm floor without a screed

Given that the apartment’s water floor offers the ideal temperature, it is important to give its installation the utmost consideration. A layer of GVL needs to be placed over the insulation circuit if a polystyrene system is to be used.

A slap of GVL is also installed when installing the floor using a wooden method for parquet or linoleum.

A thermostat and pressure regulator are installed as supplementary equipment after the pipes are removed.

Errors can occasionally be made when installing heated flooring; these are best avoided. Here are a few of them:

1. It is believed that the measurement of the structure before and after installation is not such an important stage, and you can skip it with a light soul. In fact, measurements sometimes allow you to detect serious violations, which, if not eliminated on time, will inevitably inevitably lead to a breakdown or enhanced energy consumption. It is important to calculate and pressure on the floor.
2. Any owner of an apartment or house would like to complete the repair rather and start using a useful purchase. It is worth warning against this: rush when laying the floor is harmful. For the design to work properly, all its elements must "grasp". This may need several days. The inclusion of heating at this stage will only damage.
3. It is not necessary to install temperature sensors deep in the design, since they periodically fail and require replacement. But after the entire structure is mounted, it will be difficult to extract it and check the serviceability of the system.

When installing a warm floor, the apartment owners’ primary error was trying to save money. Given that high-quality materials can be costly, the savings in this instance are inappropriate. However, it is preferable to invest more cash in high-quality materials rather than use a lot of time and resources on repairs.

Advantages of heating mats

• The completed kit is merely for selection. All you have to do to accomplish this is determine the desired temperature and determine how big an area to cover with a warm floor.

• Based on, there is no need to fix the cable. For you, manufacturers have already completed this task.

• Thermal insulation beneath a warm floor is not necessary. It is put right down on top of the primed base.

Additionally, filling the screed is not necessary. It is covered with a 3–4 mm thick layer of tile adhesive.

• There is no rise in the floor. One of the drawbacks of heating systems into a screed is an odd "step." This disadvantage is not present for mats.

• Quickly prepared for work. The adhesive solution dries in about two weeks as opposed to a screed, which can take up to a month to dry. You can therefore use heating beforehand.

Installation of a warm dry floor

To ensure that the warm floor screed is produced to a high standard and varies in quality, several requirements and layout guidelines must be followed:

1. When the installation of the heating system, before pouring the solution, it is necessary to carefully clean the surface of construction debris, dust and pollution. If you neglect this requirement, then when hardening, the solution can completely exfoliate from the base.
2. You need to start laying the screed from the walls opposite to the entrance. In the screed, it is necessary to make small holes with a thickness of 4-5 cm. Thus, a strong adhesion of a new screed with a lower basis will be ensured. The surface will dry out evenly and quickly.
3. The most acceptable thickness of the concrete screed is an indicator of 3-5 cm. If you make a screed thicker than 5 cm, then heating the floor will occur for a long time, and if 3 cm is thinner, then, on the contrary, the coating can occur and the floor will crack. If you need to perform a thiner screed (for example, 2 cm), add a plasticizer to the solution or apply self -leveling mixtures.
4. In order for the flooring not to be deformed and cracks do not appear on it due to the effects of high temperature extensions, deformation seams must be used along the walls and near the doors, laying the compensatory strip of polyurethane foam.
5. Performing a dry screed, it is important that the backfill is completely dry. In order for the consistency of the screed to be as dense as possible, the size of the particles should not exceed 5 mm. Between the sheets of GKL and the backfill, in no case should you leave gaps or slot.

After the filling process is finished, the screed needs to be covered with plastic film or sprayed with water using a spray to prevent the composition from drying out too quickly. You must wait 30 days at room temperature until the screed dries completely.

One month after the screed is poured, the heating system is first turned on in two stages: During the course of the first seven days, the system’s temperature gradually rises from its lowest value to its highest. The temperature then gradually drops over the following seven days, from its maximum to its minimum.

If you adhere to all of the aforementioned guidelines when laying the screed, you will eventually be satisfied with warm, high-quality flooring.

In conclusion, it is important to remember that a warm floor beneath a dry screed is a good substitute for a concrete coating. Although the heat transfer is slightly less, their effectiveness is not worse. However, polystyrene and wooden structures are more dependable and long-lasting.

Polystyrene system of warm floors

First off, there’s no need to make any special arrangements for the polystyrene system of a heated floor device. The plates can be mounted on a plank, wooden coating, or a pre-made concrete base. Frame and thyroid houses can install the polystyrene system because of its lightweight design. In this instance, the design appears as follows:

• polystyrene plates consist of special heat distribution elements – lamellas made of aluminum and galvanized steel. Directly in the grooves, the pipes of the main heating circuit are installed. The basis of the entire structure is to create the necessary stiffness, which is achieved through the use of the finish coating made from GVL sheets. Sheets of the finish layer are staggered.

There are two types of plates that are used in work: extruded and foam. Just 10–40 mm of plate thickness is needed for the heated floor. The heating circuit’s pipes, mounted in the thickness of the plates, are covered in polystyrene mats. Slabs and sheets are firmly fastened to one another because of unique bosses and grooves. Because polystyrene mats have mounting mounts on the sides, each element’s fasteners are located within a single, complete field.

Remember to include metal plates (made of aluminum or galvanized iron). These plates serve as the primary means of heat transfer for this system, transferring heat from the floor surface’s heating contour. Heat is distributed evenly across the floor with the use of plates.

For context, consider that this system is unique in that a pie of that size would only be 50 mm tall. In contrast, the concrete screed has a minimum height of only 80 mm.

Warm floor on wooden lags. Two method

Because the pipe is as close to the floor as possible, this method works better than the previous one.

Similar to the initial version, a 100 mm-thick layer of thermal insulation is placed in between the 60 cm lags. If it’s not a heated room at the bottom of the floor or the second story, don’t forget about waterproofing.

We want to bring to your notice that there shouldn’t be a 60-centimeter gap between the lags. Insulation is simply more convenient to lay.

There is a range in the distance. Naturally, everything within logical bounds. After all, the material for the floor’s upper layer should be stronger the wider the gap between the lags. Furthermore, since this is a warm floor, the final layer’s thickness should be as thin as possible to allow for warming without buckling under the weight of people and furniture.

After that, boards made of chipboard or another appropriate material are cut to the same width as the purported pipe step. It appears to be a sort of crate. In order to prevent the pipe from falling, chipboard must be placed underneath the crate if soft insulation was used.

If you intend to lay a 16-diameter pipe, the space between the boards should be 20 mm, with a 2 cm thickness between each board. The boards are not fastened to the wall dense in locations where it is intended to turn the loop when laying a snake in order to facilitate this action.

Although this picture was taken using a different technique, the general idea is the same as it was stated above.

Since there is no other way to lay the pipe here, the water warm floor device without a concrete screed is installed using only a snake.

The foil strips lay further in the grooves that had formed. the center of the strip within the groove.

The foil strip’s width should be sufficient to refill the groove and leave half of the distance to the next groove on either side of the groove. that a clearer example would be provided. Assuming a 16 mm pipe diameter, a 20 cm planned step should be present between the pipes. Consequently, this pipe requires a 2 × 2 groove, meaning that it must be covered by 6 cm, followed by 10 cm on one side and half that distance to the next pipe. The foil strip’s width comes out to be 6 + 10 + 10 = 26 cm in total.

To evenly distribute heat across the entire floor, foil is required.

We were actually a little ducked here. The site will warm up nearer the pipe in any case. Nevertheless, the foil will continue to try to heat the surrounding area.

It is best to use specialized heat distribution plates in place of foil as they are more capable of handling the task.

It is not required to place chipboard beneath the crate when using plates.

Depending on the option selected, a floor pipe is placed on top of the foil or plates. If needed, it is fastened with tiny nails or metal plates and fasteners.

Only when foil is applied can they remain badly. In order for the screws to be pressed into the tree and their hats to stay out of the way of the finished layer that is laid, they must be screwed in simultaneously with a fair amount of force. After installation, remember to reinstall the system (the link to this page is provided at the top).

Having put up the system, we continue the installation of the water floor on the wooden floor, namely the next material, galvanized sheets of iron are laid over the entire area for even better distribution of heat on the floor surface, provided that the foil is used. After all, it is necessary to bring the heat to the grounding at all points as close as possible, since it has already been said that the tree is a bad heat conductor. If you use the plates, it is not necessary to put a sheet of iron as the plates and so is already thick and will have time to transfer heat to the periphery from the pipe.

Additionally, the flooring and chipboard, etc. P. have an iron coating on them. If installing the substrate necessitates using flooring installation technology, like laminate, then it is acceptable.

The primary distinction in this technology is the uniform thickness of the boards that separate the pipes. In order for the carpenters to plan the purchased boards to the same thickness, they must be fed into the woodworking machine. For instance, maximum surface irregularity of 2 mm is needed for laminate laying. The final surface must thus fulfill these specifications.

Automatic temperature control in the house

Heating systems in the homes of strict Europeans are inevitably planned and then installed alongside the home’s automatic temperature control system. Germans and Poles are aware of the fact that energy-efficient gas production and a suitable degree of indoor comfort cannot be guaranteed in a home without automation.

In Russia, it is common for the hosts to learn that they need an automatic temperature control system once the house is constructed, the heating system is installed and operational, and they start receiving gas bills.

It turns out that the air temperature, the direction and power of the wind are constantly changing outside. Day and night, the temperature of the outer air even during the day often changes to a dozen degrees. The house now blows, then no, changeable wind. Unstable sun, then heating the house, then no. Heat loss of the house is constantly jumping on a different size. In order not to bother with all this leapfrog several times a day, the owner of the house manually sets a larger temperature on the boiler, so that the temperature in the house is warmer, with a margin. And at the end of the month he looks at the expense of gas with longing and scratches the turnip.

The owner finds out that additional equipment needs to be installed, the heating system needs to be replaced and redone, and something needs to be thrown away in order for the house to be equipped with automatic temperature control. And you’ll need to lay, hammer, and drill for this. that the total cost of this automation would be significantly lower if installed right away, when the house was being built.

Three automatic temperature control systems are required in a home with a dry warm floor: radiators that regulate the room’s air temperature; an outdoor temperature boiler; and a warm floor that regulates the air temperature in the room.

Warm floors are known to be either "comfortable" or "heating."

A "comfortable" warm floor gives off a gentle warmth and creates a pleasing sensation when someone is on it. Radiators provide the room’s primary source of heat. The coolant temperature must remain constant in order to provide a cozy warm floor.

"Warming" the floor, It not only makes the room comfortable, but it also fully heats it.

The dry warm floor is typically only appropriate for cozy heating due to its comparatively low thermal power.

Within the thermostat casing is the room’s air temperature sensor.

Three automatic control systems are required for temperature regulation in a home with a cozy, dry, warm floor.

One When the air temperature in the room reaches a comfortable level, the system that controls the operation of a warm floor should be adjusted accordingly. That is, the house will have a warm, cozy floor during the off-season.

The Automatic Radiator Control System kicks in when the floor temperature surpasses the upper limit and the room air temperature drops. As the air in the room runs out, radiators will add their heat to the heat that the warm floor will continuously produce.

The boiler’s coolant heating mode needs to be changed to another automatic system that reacts to outside air temperature.

It is advised to use weather automation because the warm floor system uses high inertia—which causes it to heat and cool gradually—to regulate its operation. The coolant supplied to the system will then be adjusted to match the outside temperature. As a result, the coolant circulating in the floor experiences temperature changes in addition to variations in the outside temperature.

The coolant temperature in the system won’t fluctuate when using a room thermostat until the room temperature starts to rise (because of street warming). Only then will the coolant’s temperature start to drop, but not before it gets hot because of the room’s system’s inertia (i.e., irrational energy consumption).

Consequently, you must use the weather regulator to control the warm floor system in order to ensure that the house’s heating is economical.

The collector with servo drives on control valves must be chosen and installed in order to control the warm floor’s temperature.

The device known as the "service" is one that uses the thermostat’s electric current to control the valve’s opening and closing. By acting as a switch, the servo drives can fully open or close the valve. A tolerance of +/- 0.5–1 OS will be used to maintain the warm floor’s surface temperature.

Mounting on polystyrene base

• Experts evaluate the polystyrene basis as the most optimal.
• The standard polystyrene plate has a thickness of about 3 cm. It is so small that it is sometimes advisable to raise the black floor to the required height, laying a layer of foam. By the way, he is the same class as polystyrene.
• It can be laid on the overlap, one might say, of any quality. The light structure almost does not create an extra load on the overlap, so the system can be installed in old wooden buildings. Due to the low thickness of losses in the height of the room is almost no.
• The standard polystyrene plate has a thickness of about 3 cm. It is so small that it is sometimes advisable to raise the black floor to the required height, laying a layer of foam. By the way, he is the same class as polystyrene.

• Functional grooves are provided on the plates: for the straight and rotary layout of the pipes. The substrate is collected according to the laying plan of the highway.
• Installation is greatly simplified if the laying is carried out on: the pipes are simply laid in cells and fixed.

Counsel It’s best to use a regular marker to sketch the pipe highway before utilizing the substrate.

• For the better distribution of heat in the grooves of tiles, metal plates from galvanizing or aluminum are laid. On the heat distribution plate, grooves are provided for the pipe of the corresponding size and stiffener"s ribs.
• The finish coating of the type of laminate and parquet is mounted directly on the waterproofing substrate laid on the highway. For tiles, a solid base of plywood, DSTP or moisture resistant drywall is required for tiles.

Significant It is strictly prohibited to use one circuit to power adjacent rooms, particularly when those rooms have different temperature regimes—the bedroom, for instance, is a balcony. For expansive regions, multiple contours can be placed here.

They are all intended to heat up to 40 kV of space.

When is it better to use a flooring

Requirements for using a warm water floor’s dry structure:

• The height of the room is limited. For example, with low ceilings or when an increase in floor level is not provided for in a specific design (architectural) solution.
• Weak floors. A concrete screed 50 mm high weighs 250-300 kg per 1 m2, which creates a significant load on inter-story ceilings. This is especially true for wooden floors in log cabins, shield and frame houses. Dry system weighs much less-25-30 kg/m2.
• The impossibility of installing a concrete screed on a particular object. For example, in the apartment, on the high floor of a multi -storey building, where the finished concrete is delivered (or knead the right amount in place) is problematic.

Benefits of choosing this option:

• high installation speed due to the lack of "wet" processes;
• Light weight (up to 30 kg/m2), so that the design does not load the inter -story floors and can be used in any type of houses;
• small thickness (35-60 mm), minimally lifting the floor level;
• minimum labor costs during assembly;
• withstands temperature changes;
• good heat and noise insulation of dry warm floor layers;
• the possibility of use in temporary buildings and rooms, since a dry structure can be quickly assembled, and then disassembled and mounted in another place.

One drawback of the dry warm floor is that its components need to be waterproofed because they are moisture-averse.

Wooden or polystyrene flooring is used in warm environments. Polystyrene mats are used as a supporting insulation material in the polystyrene system. In prefabricated wooden modules or strips (rails) composed of chipboard or wood. Any of these bases can have steel or aluminum plates mounted on top of it that act as a heat distribution layer thanks to their grooves. The grooves in the plates are where the heating pipes are placed (lamellas). the supporting layer of GVL plates, completing the "pie".

What are the options for the flooring system

There are currently two common ways to install a warm floor without setting up screed:

• polystyrene system;
• Wooden system.

Every suggested option has advantages and disadvantages of its own. The primary element in the first instance consists of polystyrene plates with a soldered water circuit already inside of them. These plates can be placed directly on the ceiling’s concrete base or, if preferred, on a wooden floor supported by wooden lags.

For informational purposes: Since the polystyrene flooring system for warm floors is the lightest, it can be utilized in multi-story residential buildings with apartments and wooden structures. 200–250 kg is the weight of a 50 cm-tall concrete screed. one square meter. Given that residential properties typically have an area of 16–20 m^2, we obtain: 20 x 250 = 5000 kg. (5 tons)

A different system, called wooden, uses customized modules composed of a chipboard plate. Special grooves on each module are used to lay the heating circuit. Place the structure on the plank coating as well as the black concrete floor.

You can use a wide variety of finishing materials, like laminate or parquet boards, with the polystyrene system. In this case, they can be placed directly on polystyrene plates. When working with carpet or tiles, create a layer of chipboard or drywall before laying on polystyrene panels. With a wooden system, things appear a little differently. Galvanized plates need to be laid before laminate or parquet flooring can be installed.

Nota bene: A foamed polyethylene substrate must be made underneath the parquet to prevent clicks and creaks.

The conditions for the equipment of dry, flooring

If you choose to install a warm water floor in your home, consider the scope of the project as a whole as well as the circumstances that make the wet screed’s equipment unworkable. The following circumstances must exist for the dry screed to be an effective means of resolving this issue:

• limited height of the interior;
• insufficient fortress of inter -story ceilings.

For example, the ceiling height in your home or apartment is lower than the standard range of 240 to 250 cm. any extra five to seven centimeters. Since the degree of comfort will depend on the thickness of a new screed. The most crucial requirement relates to the extra weight, which will put strain on the current ceiling. This condition is crucial for thyroids, country homes, and frames. The flooring system weighs only 30 kg/m2, which is significantly less.

Warm floor dry flooring systems offer several benefits over wet screed systems. Easy installation that doesn’t require a wet process. Its low weight—about 30 kg/m2 on average—allows you to build structures without using too many interstory panels. The ideal interior ceiling height is retained because of the pie’s thinness (just 35–60 cm). Both systems have good heat and sound insulation, and both polystyrene and wood can withstand temperature changes perfectly.

The majority of these systems work well in temporary structures like summer homes. Such a warm floor is easily dismantled if desired.

The main drawback of these systems is their inadequate ability to withstand moisture. Thus, don’t overlook installing a waterproofing layer when installing wooden systems and polystyrene.

The nuances of the control verification

If a brigade hires you to lay a wet type screed using concrete or a cement-sand mixture, take your time and pay them right away. to hold off until the artificial stone has completely solidified. Additionally, for the first two weeks, a film covers the surface, which is periodically moistened with water to promote as much moisture-free sleep as possible.

After that, you’ll need to wait for the composition that covered the warm floor’s pipes to crystallize—this will take roughly a month. The term is dependent on the layer’s thickness; each instance has a unique indicator.

It is possible to make changes to the surface after the designated hardening period has passed; this arrangement was handled by a hired brigade. A few details need to be verified when accepting their work.

Time should first thoroughly inspect the surface because the existence of cracks amply illustrates the errors committed. Such work is not acceptable.

Every area of the screed in every room needs to be examined carefully; shine is not desired, and the top layer should be uniformly gray and free of chips and cracks. Next, a two-meter rail is used to check the surface in accordance with the rule.

It is applied to the screed in multiple locations. normal if the distance is less than 4 mm. This is table 25 of SNiP 3.04.01-87.

Next, a two-meter rail is used to check the surface using the rule. It is applied to the screed in multiple locations. normal if the distance is less than 4 mm. This is table 25 of SNiP 3.04.01-87.

It is acceptable to deviate from a horizontal by no more than 0.2 percent over a distance of 4 meters, so you should check the slope along the horizon. It turns out that 8 mm is the acceptable amount of slope in this instance.

It is preferable to use a wooden block and an end for squeezing instead of a hammer for tapping. Every inch of the surface is examined, and the ringing sound remains constant. There are screed detachments from the base if it is deaf.

The work can be approved and paid to the brigade when the surface with honor has withstood the audit. They should be proud of themselves if this is the outcome of their own labor.

Heat tests need to be conducted now.

It’s critical to keep in mind that they launch in a month, not sooner. Commence at 25, increasing the temperature by 5 degrees every day until it reaches the design value. Don’t forget to keep an eye on the pressure loss.

Installation of systems

On a polystyrene or wooden base, a water-water water system installation without screed is completed. Additionally, the same systems include heat distribution stripes and flooring in the shape of blocks made of metal, such as aluminum or galvanized steel.

The purpose of laying these plates is to improve heat conductivity.

Copper, polypropylene, and polyethylene are the three materials that can be used to make pipes for installing a nasty warm floor.

Because they are long-lasting and simple to use, polyethylene pipes are becoming more and more popular. In addition to all of that, the cost of these pipes is reasonable.

As was previously mentioned, there are two types of dry warm floor installations: those based on polystyrene and those on wood. Each should be examined in greater detail.

Wooden

In wooden homes, it is more frequently used.

There is a rack in addition to the modular system.

Pipe grooves are specifically designed into the chipboard and OSB modules used in the modular system.

Lock mounts are used to secure the modules.

It is essential to install waterproofing and thermal barriers in such a system.

Another crucial component is the dampfer gap, which keeps the coating from bloating as its temperature rises.

Rack

Usually placed on a black floor, this is a plank floor installed over the lags.

Since pipes are mounted directly to its surface in metal plates, it must be covered with thermal insulation.

It is essential to gather the base from 1 cm thick wooden slabs so that a finish coating, like ceramic tiles or linoleum, can be applied on top.

A soft substrate will suffice if the final floor material is parquet or laminate, in which case a basis is not necessary.

It should be noted right away that experts typically do not advise installing a water warm floor beneath a laminate both with and without screed.

This is because laminate is sensitive to moisture and does not conduct heat very well. Recently, laminate products made especially for use with water heating floors have hit the market. A unique label indicating this needs to be present on such a product. Experts recommend utilizing a heated floor when applying this kind of laminate coating.

Polystyrene

Similar to polystyrene, it is almost identical to foam and has the same qualities—good heat conductivity, soundproofing, and resistance to deterioration.

A lot of professionals pick this kind of installation very carefully. Because the polystyrene plate is only 30 mm thick, laying foam frequently raises the draft floor a little bit.

There shouldn’t be any variations or movement of the overlap if polystyrene must be placed on the draft floor, though. It has to be leveled and cleaned of trash in this instance.

Additionally, polystyrene modules feature fasteners and unique channels where pipes are installed. The pipes are then laid in the grooves created by the metal stripes used for heat distribution. After that, place a soft surface over the plates. It is preferable to lay so-called dry screed in situations where floor tiles are completed. You can use chipboard or plywood for it; moisture-resistant drywall is also an option.

Prior to installation, you should choose the locations of the room’s large furniture and heating radiators. To avoid the flooring overheating, it is preferable to avoid installing water floor system pipes next to radiators and under furniture. Additionally, putting carpets on a heated floor is not a good idea.

Types of dry laying of water floor pipes

Dry installation of flooring is a widely recognized concept that encompasses various styling options that vary in terms of effectiveness, materials utilized, and labor complexity.

The most widely used techniques for dry styling are:

1. Mats for water floors – fit on an even base, have special bosses for laying a water circuit. A gypsum -accommodation plate or plywood sheet is laid on top of mats. The selected flooring is laid on top.
2. Wooden floor. In wooden floorboards, a place under a water circuit is cut with a milling cutter. After laying in prepared furrows, the pipe, the top is closed with plywood. The installation type is used for laminate finishes, a parquet board or other type of flooring using wood.
3. Dry floor device, without cement screed. The essence of this method is that the space from draft to the finish layer is filled with small granules of slag or other material, with high thermal conductive characteristics. Dry Baby Boat Technologies do not require a large amount of time necessary for drying. In the West, thus “poured” according to various sources from 60 to 70% of the sex.

Prior to selecting the appropriate installation technique, it is important to ascertain which approach will work best in each situation.

Considerations such as efficiency, heat transfer rate, and other technical aspects must be made.

The effectiveness of water floors without screed

The type of installation chosen has an impact on the chosen water-heating system. Based on the study, floors with special mats have the highest efficiency. Here, the water circuit’s efficiency is raised by the use of unique heat-reflecting plates.

Efficiency is limited to fifty percent when using dry mixtures with a water circuit installed. Research has indicated that the air between the GLL plate and the draft floor is heated by the heating system. Furthermore, the surface of the Glv plate warms up very weakly because air is a good insulator.

Dry or wet floor – which is better?

The following important arguments support the creation of a dry laying method for warm water floors:

• Fast installation speed.
• Lesser expenses.
• Smaller requirements for the bearing abilities of the overlap.
• The possibility of doing work with your own hands.

In addition, the dry-mounted water heating system has the following disadvantages:

• Low heat transfer.
• Restrictions in connection with the use of flooring.

Consider the following details in each scenario before selecting a dry or wet screeding method:

• Technical features of the building. Dry screed is performed in rooms where the creation of dampness is unacceptable. In this case, cases of the course of the composition to the neighbors from below are excluded, since the mixture is completely absent in the mixture.
• Dates. According to statistics, the installation of a water warm floor in a dry way is usually solved by those who do not allow time to wait more than a month until the cement screed freezes.

The dry screed remains highly popular in spite of its current shortcomings. When there is a limited amount of time for installation, its use makes sense. The screed cannot be poured using conventional techniques due to the height of the ceilings, and work will be done independently.

In what cases is a dry warm floor used

Dry warm floors are typically used in situations where they are the best option. Among them are:

• Small height of the premises. Also, increasing the floor level may be unacceptable in accordance with certain architectural or design solutions. The minimum thickness of the dry floor can start from 35 mm, while the usual screed is at least 80 mm.
• Weak floors. The weight of the dry system does not exceed 30 kg per 1 m2, while in a concrete screed this indicator can reach 300 kg. In frame and shield houses, such a load is unacceptable.

Different technologies are available for setting up a dry warm floor in a wooden house, depending on the type of flooring that will be used in the future and which screed materials are appropriate in a given situation.

Crucial! Regardless of the technology you select, it is always important to consider the initial surface preparation. It needs to be completely cleared of all trash and lined up with the allowable difference norm of two millimeters per linear meter.

Option 2 wooden system

This system is particularly well-liked in homes made of wood and having beam ceilings. The two types of designs are modular and rack.

Rheck wooden system

In a wooden system of the rack type, rails carved from boards, chipboard, MDF, or moisture-resistant plywood serve as the supporting layer. Products with a thickness of 20 mm and a humidity level of no more than 10% should be used.

Wooden plates are cut into stripes. The width of the strips should be 130 mm for a pipe step of 150 mm, 180 mm for a step of 200 mm, and 280 mm for a step of 300 mm. Out of these, a pipe support layer will be assembled and placed atop an aged wooden floor, or lag. In the latter scenario, you have up to 20 mm of "save" at the floor structure’s height.

The following scheme is followed when installing a wooden system:

• The bearing surface is cleaned, aligned. Unevenness of not more than 2 mm per 1 m are allowed.P. Paul. If this norm is exceeded, the gender must be aligned.
• For hydraulic and vapor barrier on the floor, polyethylene is laid out with a thickness of 200 μR.
• A dampfer tape is laid on the walls of the room.
• Cut strips are laid on the lags or continuous wooden surface and they are fixed using self -tapping screws. The layout is driven across the reference boards or lag, strictly according to the plan of the arrangement of heating pipes. At first, in accordance with the plan, the contours of heating pipes are transferred to the floor, and then these contours are covered on both sides with wooden supporting strips. The gap between the strips should be 20 mm. Where the pipe is rounded according to the plan, it is desirable to round the supporting strips.
• Between the strips put support plates with grooves, fixing them on wooden planes with screws. In order to evenly warm up the entire floor, it is necessary to lay out the plates by 80% of its area.
• Heating pipes are put into the grooves of the plates without additional fixation. To make the installation easier, it is recommended to plan the pipe laying “snakes” at the design stage, and not “snail”.
• Glaces with heating pipes are covered with polyethylene thickness 100-200 μn. In this case, this layer plays the role of acoustic protection that prevents the appearance of sound effects during heating and cooling of the pipes.
• Sheets of GVL with a thickness of 10 mm in 2 layers are laid on the film, fixing them with self -tapping screws. This layer is a supporting and supporting for the finish flooring.

Modular wooden system

When putting together a modular system, the heating pipes are installed in the carved grooves of special modules, which are chipboard square plates, rather than in the spaces between the rails.

The system can be installed right away on the lags or on an old wooden coating. The locking connection between the modules allows for continuous coating.

The method for installing the modular system is the same as that for using the rack structure’s strips. However, because the grooves in the modules are already cut out and don’t need to be calculated or formed, the process is simpler and goes more quickly in this instance.

Paul laying on a polystyrene base

Everyone is familiar with polystyrene foam. It doesn’t rot, is good at blocking out heat and sound, and holds its qualities for a very long time.

An example of the floor situated on the polystyrene foundation

1. Polystyrene plates are available with a base thickness of 30 mm. If a large thickness is required for calculations, the black floor is pre -insulated using additional polystyrene plates.
2. If the polystyrene base is placed directly on the draft floor, it must be leveled, remove all the garbage, eliminate the changes and mobility of the base.
3. Put a polystyrene base – plates with grooves, straight and rotary, observing the layout plan. Such plates release one step 150 and 300 mm. The plates are fastened with each other with a snapping lock.
4. If universal plates with bosses are used, the pipe laying circuit can be more complicated, for convenience, mark it with a marker.
5. Aluminum plates are placed in the grooves, and in them – pipes in accordance with the contour laying plan.
6. On top of the plates, you can lay a substrate and the finish coating – parquet, laminate. If tiles are selected as a coating, it is necessary to lay a dry screed under it – chipboard, plywood or moisture -resistant drywall.

The use of a flooring

The flooring has a fairly broad application. However, keep in mind the scenarios in which it could be used. It might not be able to shorten the floor to ceiling distance by design solution. The room’s other components could all suffer in this situation.

It can be challenging to deliver ready concrete to the floors of a multi-story building. As a result, we must now think of alternative solutions for the warm concrete floor device other than applying screed. It is very difficult to knead the necessary amount of solution, even on the spot.

Frame houses, log homes, and shield buildings are examples of structures where a concrete screed cannot be completed. When utilizing a dry system as opposed to a concrete solution, the structure’s overall weight is reduced by nearly ten times. In the latter instance, an additional height of roughly 5-7 cm is added.

However, since dry material is highly susceptible to moisture, waterproofing will undoubtedly need to be done.

Types of flooring without screed

This warm water floor device version is ideal for rooms where filling the concrete screed is not possible due to specific circumstances. These are typically wooden structures with already extremely low ceilings in the rooms. Sometimes the issue is with getting concrete delivered to the job site.

For a warm floor without screed, there are various choices. There are two distinct types among them:

1. Polystyrene. Paul is based – laying mats from the corresponding material (polystyrene). In this case, we must not forget about the heating circuit itself, which can be stacked according to various schemes. The lags used during installation can be installed not only on lags, a wooden base, but also a previously made concrete screed to align the surface.
2. Wooden. Wooden plates are used here, on one side of which special channels are located, where pipes are placed. This system can be mounted in the same way as polystyrene.

The polystyrene system is the simplest. However, in this instance, a significant load is placed on the bearing beams. It is important to consider all of these nuances prior to the installation process. It won’t be unnecessary to perform preliminary calculations. Fixing the pipes of a warm water floor involves the use of aluminum plates.

The thermal insulation layer will need to be installed if there isn’t a concrete screed. Generally speaking, professionals advise buying dry goods like mineral wool. Gypsum is one of the more contemporary products. Every type of rafting has superior thermal insulation properties, even sheet material.

Technology is always evolving, bringing new approaches and configurations for warm water floors to the market on a regular basis. It saw the introduction of polyurethane as a thermal insulation material—but not in its native state—but rather by surface spraying. Here, a spray gun is used in the work.

Steel galvanized plates fit onto a wooden base when one exists. Next, after their flooring, comes from polyethylene to stop the parquet boards from cracking. The most common application for GVL sheets as a substrate is following the installation of a warm water floor with cable tiles or linoleum.

In our guide to heating and insulating your home, we explore an innovative solution: electric underfloor heating without the need for a screed. Traditional underfloor heating systems often require a thick layer of screed, which can be time-consuming and expensive to install. However, with advancements in technology, electric underfloor heating systems have emerged as a convenient alternative. These systems utilize thin heating mats or cables installed directly under the floor finish, providing efficient and comfortable heating without the hassle of a screed layer. In this article, we delve into the benefits, installation process, and considerations for choosing electric underfloor heating without screed, offering homeowners a practical and cost-effective solution for keeping their homes warm and cozy.

Wooden warm water floors

There are plenty of "dry" methods for creating a water floor in a wooden house. However, there are certain prerequisites to follow when laying on a drafty wooden floor or on the lags:

• Depending on the finish coating, the lags should be located:

• after 30 cm, if you lay the tile;
• After 60 cm for other coatings.

First choice: a "floating" floor devoid of a rigid base ligament. Here, prefabricated DVP modules with formed gutters are employed. They slide onto the ceiling’s lags, which are sandwiched by an insulation layer. The pipes are fixed into a metal strip that is placed on top of the fiberboard to improve heat transfer.

The pipe laying step can vary, as well as the diameter of the pipe used. It is selected depending on the required amount of heat to replenish the heat loss of the room. Depending on the finish coating that you are going to use, you can lay it on top or not a hydraulic barrier, a steam-barrier. If you plan to lay a soft finish coating (linoleum or carpet), it is necessary to put GVL (the best option), chipboard and OSP. Plates with adhesive component should have an emission class E-1 or E-0, their thickness is at least 22 mm (for normal bearing capacity). These plates will serve as a rigid base and, at the same time, a distributor and heat accumulator.

Warm floor that floats. This indicates that it has nothing to do with the foundation. Given that different materials expand and contract at different rates, this solution makes sense.

Any even base can be laid with the same pipe modules (or others, with a different step, a different base thickness). You can either fix them or create warm, floating, incoherent floors. Furthermore, because different materials expand at different temperatures, floating floors are the best option.

The second approach. The installation of inter-tube boards, not modules, is possible on the lags of the wooden water floor system. These are boards with varying lengths but the same thickness—shirin—that serve as the foundation for the pipe-laying pattern that was previously established. The degree of heat and hydro-insulation matters, but the boards can also be installed on any smooth surface. The optimal option, where the temperature extensions are not felt, is depicted in the figure.

Alternatively, you can use well-dried boards (chamber drying not higher than 8% of the humidity) in place of pre-made or DIY chipboard modules.

The third option is the Granab system, which enables you to install the water floor "dry" on any kind of surface, including uneven and uneven ones. This entire chip is housed in unique modules with movable legs. After installing and aligning these modules, they arrange the pipes by laying out wooden (made of fiberboard) blocks that are topped with metal plates and contain the pipes. Furthermore, chipboard or GVL will be needed for the hydraulic/steam protection for soft coatings, depending on the final coating used.

For people who would rather not align the base in order to lay a warm floor, there is this system.

The choice of warm floor

The warm floor variations should be selected for the heating system’s implementation because they come in the form of infrared film, thermomes, or heating cables. The most recent iteration of the warm floor boasts a host of environmental benefits, including a mild ionization that is good for allergy sufferers and doesn’t dry out the room’s furnishings or airspace. In any case, the temperature is uniformly distributed from the floor’s base to the ceiling.

Under a concrete screed that is prepared in accordance with extinct proportions, cable warm floors can be installed. When using heating mats (also known as cable mats) on the surface, screed is not necessary. However, tile glue will need to be applied in this case as it can act as the foundation for ceramic tiles.

Film floor: completely dry option. It is only included in the screed in very special circumstances. It is preferable to forgo the concrete fill because it will damage the heating components and make it impossible to provide the necessary amount of heat to the space—especially if you plan to add more flooring. There won’t be any productivity at all.

It’s also important to remember that installing cable warmers or thermometers can only be done during major home or apartment repairs. Regarding the IK of the heated floor, it can be installed regardless of unrelated events. The foundation’s qualitative leveling is what matters most. can be completed at any point in both capital and cosmetic repairs. We need to have more conversations about him in order to fully equip the space with heat.

We consider both variant of dry screed wooden and polystyrene

Most of the time, we have to work with a tree to install a heating floor. You can use a variety of wood-based building and finishing materials for your work thanks to modern technologies.

Wooden system of warm floors

The most widely used system is the wooden one.

The materials used for the supporting layer’s thickness should marginally exceed the water circuit pipe’s diameter. Plywood, GVL, CPS, MDF, or chipboard are all options. By laying the strip, we can measure its width according to the heating pipe’s step. Without damping tape, we are unable to act in this situation.

Over the supporting structures (lags), the support layer is applied. We conceptually apply the future water circuit’s route on this layer. Support stripes need to be applied to every pipe, with consideration for the distance that is just a little bit larger than the pipeline’s diameter. The supporting strips round at the water pipe’s rotational bend.

A layer pie for a wooden system of heated floors is depicted in the figure.

Heat-distributing special plates are laid between the support rails. These plates are designed with a specific groove where the water circuit pipe is precisely laid. The pipe fits the plate as tightly as possible as a result. In this instance, the heat transfer effect is greatly enhanced.

Crucial! At least 80% of the heated room’s floor is covered with the plate. There is no need for extra fixing of the pipeline installed in these plates on the supporting base.

• wood (parquet board, laminate or ordinary board) should have certification, designed for working with warm floors;
• If you want to use ceramic tiles as a finish coating, do not forget about the additional layer of GVL, attached to the lower layer of the structure.

The polystyrene option is a benefit of the wooden system. First, the installation of supporting racks results in a fairly robust design. In this instance, the layer pie only reaches a thickness of 35 mm. The length of time and meticulous installation of each component is the only thing that makes the work more difficult.

Polystyrene system of warm floors

Since the primary structural components are made of synthetic materials, we can work with any kind of residential building, including ones with water floors. Both wooden structures and concrete ceilings can be used with the polystyrene system. The technology’s primary function is to directly place a typewriter on the outdated coatings.

Note: The only prerequisite for polystyrene systems is that the base’s surface must be level, clean, and prepared appropriately.

Think about the process involved in laying a water-type water floor. Here’s the process in this instance:

• A clean, prepared black surface is covered with a plastic film with a thickness of 150-200 md. The film in places of joints is laid overlair (10 cm). The joints are sealed with mounting tape;
• A dumpfer ribbon is mounted on the perimeter of the heated room on the bearing walls;
• A profile polystyrene foam can be laid on top of the polyethylene film;
• On top, the water circuit and heat distribution plates are installed on top;
• At the places of the bends of the pipes where the plate ends, the lining of plastic film is made under pipes;
• After laying the heating pipe, it is necessary to cover the entire structure again with a plastic film with a thickness of 100-200 md;
• Sheets of GVL in two layers are laid on top of the entire structure. The total thickness of this coating should be at least 20 mm.

In the future, a finish coating intended for use with heated floors is chosen, just like in the case of a wooden system.

Crucial! It is not advised to install ceramic tiles on a design like this without a rigid frame. If the tiles are too rigid, the base will not be as stiff, which will cause the flooring to crack quickly.

Note: Standard mounting sheet foam can be used to replace profile polystyrene. You must use the primary technology to guide all of your actions in order to accomplish this. The only benefit of this option is that the dry screed is stronger and more rigid.

Important note: The heating option of a warm floor linked to a central heating system is not appropriate for polystyrene systems. The state of polystyrene foam can be adversely affected by coolant temperatures that are too high during heating.

Installation of a warm floor system in a dry screed

Warm floors are separated into water and electric categories based on how they function: film, cable, and core. Let’s first decide on the supplies and equipment required to complete this task before moving on to the installation of each system in a dry screed.

There are various points on this list:

• plywood or sheets of GVL/SML, resistant to moisture;
• connecting elements;
• electrical insulating tape or adhesive tape;
• material for hydro- and thermal insulation of the system;
• directly the underlying system itself;
• set of various tools (pliers, soldering iron, construction knife).

Thermal insulation is one of those crucial components that requires extra care. All of the heat that the system emits will be directed into the room and not onto the floor because of the placement of the heat-insulating material, which can be created using foam, cork, or foil Lavsan.

When selecting this component, it’s important to make sure the thermal insulation material has a unique mesh layer that gives it durability and a protective coating that stops electric current from passing through.

Installation of a water floor water system

Let’s say you want to install a water warm floor immediately over a dry screed. This is not a very successful endeavor because the heating will be uneven and inefficient.

Since there is no need to wait for the concrete to freeze, the only benefit in this instance is the speed at which installation can be completed.

It is nearly hard to mount a water-warm floor in a dry screed by hand. The steps involved in direct installation are as follows:

• laying the waterproofing layer;
• filling the floor with loose materials (expanded clay or sand);
• installation of aluminum heat distribution plates (pipes will be laid into the recesses of the plates);
• Direct laying of the pipes of the waterproof system;
• installation of porous tape around the perimeter of the room;
• floor overlap with two layers of drywall fastened with self -tapping screws.

It is recommended to use a specialist to carry out this procedure as it requires specialized skills.

Film warm floor on an infrared basis

It’s much simpler to warm gender on an infrared basis in a dry screed with your hands. You need to perform a few easy tasks in order to accomplish this.

• First, it is necessary to determine the location of the heating film. For a comfortable heating, enough for the material to cover 50-60% of the area of the room. If you use the system as the main source of heat in the room, this indicator should be 60-90% of the floor area.
• When laying a heating film, it is necessary to ensure that its edge does not reach the walls of the room around its perimeter and is from them at a distance of about 10 cm.
• On the top of the heat -refracting substrate, it is necessary to spread the strips of a warm floor and fix them with tape.
• After checking the performance of the system, redraw it with sheets of waterproof plywood or GVL.
• Cover the sheets with a polypropylene film on top, which in this case plays the role of an additional waterproofer and helps to protect the warm floor on a film basis from possible mechanical damage.
• Put the second layer of plywood and carefully attach it to the existing sheets using self -tapping screws. This operation must be performed very carefully so as not to damage the elements of the warm floor system.

Installing an infrared warm floor yourself won’t take too long if you choose to use a dry screed (unlike the water heating system). However, get in touch with our experts if you still lack the courage to install the system yourself. They will install the heated floor using infrared technology in a dry screed with speed and efficiency. They will also offer guidance on additional system maintenance.

Installation of a cable warm floor in a dry screed

Similar to installing a warm floor using infrared technology, installing this kind of heating system in a dry screed involves the following steps:

• Cable installation;
• backfill of heating elements with a dry mixture;
• Checking the system performance;
• covering the system with two plywood water -resistant plywoods with two stamped layers;
• grinding and cleaning seams.

To sum up, I would like to say that installing a warm floor in a dry-type screed is quick and easy—apart from the water system, of course. These appliances not only help you create comfortable living spaces in your home but also last for many years.

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Warm floor on wooden lags. Fourth method

On your private home’s second floor, where a warm floor does not require adequate insulation, you should give this option some thought. You are welcome to use the fifth method if you do not have such a case.

This process makes use of pre-made solutions provided by producers of heating material. The technique allows for the initial planning of using this specific option because the lags are positioned far enough apart to overlap with special heat distribution plates that are used to lay pipes. Tiles are installed where the pipe passes through the lags.

Additionally, there are unique polystyrene foam plates with pipe-specific grooves.

This alternative offers simple thermal insulation, and it can be applied to private homes’ first floors by complementing it with an additional layer of standard extruded polystyrene foam sheet. This system needs heat distribution plates for improved heat transfer. This is something that cannot be avoided.

Advantages	Disadvantages
Easy installation	Higher initial cost
Low profile	Requires professional installation

If you want to increase the comfort and efficiency of your home, switching to an electric warm floor system without the need for a screed can be a game-changer. This creative method reduces installation time and costs by doing away with the conventional screed layer.

The adaptability of an electric heated floor without a screed is one of its main advantages. It is possible to install this system straight over pre-existing floor surfaces, such as tiles, laminate, or even wooden floors, in contrast to conventional underfloor heating systems that call for a thick layer of screed. It is the perfect option for both new construction and retrofitting projects because of its flexibility.

An additional benefit is the quick heat-up time. The thick layer of screed in traditional underfloor heating systems slows down the heating process by acting as a heat sink. But electric warm floors can heat up much faster without requiring a screed layer, giving the living area instant warmth and comfort.

Additionally, accurate temperature control is provided by electric warm floors without screed, enabling homeowners to customize the heating intensity in each room to suit their preferences. This degree of control lowers energy use and utility costs while simultaneously improving comfort.

In summary, there are many advantages to using an electric warm floor system without a screed, such as financial savings, adaptability, quick heat-up times, and accurate temperature control. Whether you’re building a new house or remodeling an old one, this cutting-edge heating solution offers a cost-effective and cozy way to maintain a warm living environment all year long.

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