Do -it -yourself

The time will come eventually to replace the bath, but until then, an old cast-iron dish—still made in the Soviet Union—will also need to be sent to a ferrous metal receiving point and a landfill. Don’t rush, though, as it can be used again to give it "new life." Private home owners utilize their bathtubs to create ponds for their properties, while others use them as garden benches by cutting the bowl in half, smoothing the edges, and enhancing each shelf.

Take charge of it yourself.

However, some artisans are skilled enough to saw a cast-iron bath across to create a stove out of it. An original stove of this kind can be placed in a garden plot, or its cast-iron components can be used to construct a large stove’s top and hob, or to arrange a fireplace.

There is a chance that some of the materials used to build the furnace can be saved if you have the locksmithing tool skills, which you will need for this process.

The old cast-iron bath is most frequently used to make garden barbecue stoves, which, with the correct design, can help with cooking throughout the entire warm season. Because cast iron has a high heat capacity, it can be used to make blanks for the winter and bake bread products in addition to helping to cook everyday meals.

Materials and tools for work

You must get ready the equipment and supplies needed to make such a stove. Because cutting a cast-iron bath is not an easy task, especially for Soviet production where spare metal was scarce, "disposable" Chinese devices might not be able to handle it. You will need a trustworthy German or Russian tool for this work.

Instruments:

• Small angular-grinding machine-"Bulgarian".

"Bulgarian" ought to be dependable; a subpar instrument might not even be able to handle this kind of work.

• Circles for cutting metal, 1 mm thick and with a diameter of 125 mm, they will require 3 ÷ 4 pieces, depending on the thickness of the cast iron.
• Grinding circles – for processing the cut sides of the metal, files.
• Electrodegol with a drill on metal Ø 9 or 11 m (depending on the selected bolts). It is necessary for drilling holes in the sides of the bath to connect two parts using bolts.
• Trowel and spatula for making brickwork and finishing work.
• Construction gun for sealant.
• Plumb and construction level.
• Hammer.

Ushm costs

Resources:

• The cast -iron bath itself.
• Sheet metal, with a thickness of at least 5 mm.
• Hobs double -grade cast iron slab. Instead of it, a regular metal sheet can be laid.
• Brick for the construction of the walls that will close the lower part of the bath from three or even four sides, which will be a furnace camera.
• Grate, laid in the furnace.
• Clay and sand for pantry.
• Ready heat -resistant adhesive mixture for wall decoration outside with zeramic tiles.
• Heat -resistant sealant (material – heat -resistant silicone).
• Bolts with nuts and washers for fastening the structure.
• Metallic grid "Rabitsa" for reinforcing a clay solution laid on the upper part of the bath, which will play the role of a hob.
• Ceramic tiles (can – broken) for decoration.
• A metal corner, which may be required for the manufacture of brackets – for installing a grate that separates the firebox and blew.
• Chimney pipe, with a diameter of the order of 110 ÷ 120 mm.

Work should be done while wearing respirators, building gloves, and protective glasses to protect personal safety.

I’m sure you’d be curious to know how the brick furnace in the bathroom is made.

Costs of form-resistant sealants

Fry -resistant sealant

Sick a cast -iron bath

The cutting of a cast-iron bath is arguably the most hazardous and challenging step in the furnace-making process—many people even believe it is nearly impossible to carry out.

One of the most important stages is possibly a premium portion of a large cast-iron bath.

It is advised that masters who have performed this work more than once do so in the following manner:

• If the cut of the bathtub is carried out in the room, then first you need to carry out preparatory work, since cast -iron dust, flying around in all directions, can ruin objects and things located in it. Therefore, the room needs to be released from them. If the apartment is repaired, and the door with the bathroom is removed, then the opening is necessarily closed with plastic film or unnecessary fabric (best – moisturized), because cast -iron dust is fat enough, and it will be extremely difficult to wash it from walls and furniture. It is better to make sure that it does not get into the living quarters.
• Further, the bathtub is marking the future section, since it must be divided exactly in half.
• The bath is covered with enamel, a layer of 1.5 ÷ 2.5 mm thick, and first of all, it is necessary to cut it along the entire line of the future section, otherwise chips will form on the edge of the coating.
• Then, the cast iron itself is carefully sawn, with small incisions of 100 ÷ 120 mm. Moreover, the cut is recommended to be made at a slight angle so that the enamel does not exfoliate the reverse course of the disk. It is necessary to ensure that the "Bulgarian" does not overheat – if necessary, the work is interrupted, and give the device time to cool.
• Having made half the bathtub, under each of the future halves, it is necessary to put supports, for example, from piles of brick. Otherwise, at the final stage of work, halves of the bathtub along the sawed line can close, squeeze or even break the disk (which is extremely dangerous) or damage the tool.
• Having a high -quality tool, you can cope with such work in about an hour.

The bath needs to be precisely cut across in the middle for our stove.

• If the bath is taken to a country site as a whole, then it is best to cut it on the street, turning it down in advance. In this position, it will be much easier to carry out work.

You might be looking for information on considerations when selecting electric boilers.

How to make a garden furnace bug?

You can start the stove installation process as soon as the cut bath is delivered to the installation location.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	At the selected place of the garden plot, the foundation is arranged for installation of the furnace. It is necessary, since the design will turn out to be quite heavy, and without a reliable basis it will constantly give a shrinkage, which means that the entire structure can be deformed. Then the lower part of the bath is exposed to the finished, well -dried foundation. If necessary, that the furnace is slightly higher, then it is lifted to the supports and also fixed to the concrete solution. While the concrete solution under the lower part of the bath will gain strength and ripen, you can start harvesting the remaining elements of the structure. It should be noted here that the furnace can be made in two versions, and each master chooses more acceptable from them. In the first version, the furnace facade is completely decorated with metal walls, and in another case, the firebox was closed with a brick wall, into which cast -iron or metal doors are built. After solidifying the solution under the lower part of the furnace, it is best to immediately fix the bracket on the walls of the lower half -cylinder for the installation of a grate. This structural element is a dividing firebox and blown, so it must be lifted above the bottom of the bath, approximately 150 mm. Metal corners are fixed on the marked walls of the bath, on which the grate is laid.
	To assemble the design of the furnace, a metal sheet is cut out, which will completely overlap the lower furnace department. POMISE POLUP can be welded into a metal sheet and drawn through the hob, that is, the upper part of the bathtub, outside. In order to cut a hole for the pipe in a cast iron, first, small holes are drilled along the marked circle contour, which are then neatly combined by a grinder, and then the resulting opening is brought to the desired configuration with a file. or you can choose another option, less time -consuming – this is the installation of a chimneine pipe through the back wall of the furnace. In this case, the pipe will have to be attached to the opening of the bathtub designed for the "drain-overflow" system.
	The next step, the furnace part of the furnace along the contour is coated with a fire -resistant sealant and overlapped with a sheet of metal with a chimney installed in it. Some masters in a metal sheet make a cutout of the desired size and install a cast -iron, more warm -intensive, hob on it.
	Next, it is necessary to install the second part of the bath with a hole in the pipe on top of the metal sheet. Before its installation, a sheet of metal in the places of future contact with the bathtub is also smeared with sealant. It turns out that the upper part is put on the pipe, and then the chimney is built to a height of 1000 ÷ 2500 mm, depending on the openness of the space on which the structure is installed.
	The next step is to twist the upper and lower part of the bath, as well as the metal sheet installed between them, using bolts with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm. For this, through the bathtubs, through holes are drilled with a step of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm, through which all the elements collected in a single design are fastened.
	In this figure, you can see how the design should look from the side after its fastening.
	The type of the cast iron case of the furnace from the facade is presented here and it is clearly visible on it how a chimney pipe should be installed in a metal sheet and in the “ceiling” of the furnace chamber.
	Then, the grate is separated by the top -grip and blowing chambers. The grate is laid on the metal corners fixed on the walls. But, in principle, it can be laid in a cylindrical camera without brackets – if a suitable size is selected that provides lumen at the lower point of about 150 mm.
	Next, you can proceed to the masonry work. As mentioned above, the walls can be erected only on three sides of the structure – on the sides and back, or along the entire perimeter of cast -iron chambers. first marking the laying line according to the foundation, and then the walls are displayed.
	If the firebox was closed on the front side of the brick wall, then the blower door is mounted in the wall at the bottom of the bottom of the bathtub, and the furnace level is slightly higher than the grate.
	Having folded the walls to the level of the hob, it is necessary to expand them inside so that the brick is close to the outer side of the bath. otherwise the furnace will not only look inaccurate, but the heat created in the furnace will be very quickly blowing out with a draft.
	In this version, to close the hob, which can perfectly serve as an oven, a metal sheet damper is made. This structure of the structure should close the oven as tightly as possible, otherwise baking bread or pie in it will be problematic. In order for the damper to close the camera tightly, before the latter you need to fix the metal corner. The distance between it and the facade cut of the bath should be most of all by 1 ÷ 2 mm than the thickness of the metal sheet of the door. The shuttle handle should be protected from overheating, otherwise you can not do without burns, so most often its seized part is made of wood.
	The second option for the design of the facade part is the closure of the fuel part of the furnace with a metal sheet in which a hole for installing a furnace door is cut out. For the design of the hob from the same metal sheet, a figured element of the desired shape is cut out, which is fixed from the outside to the walls of the cast -iron capacity using corners. It should be noted that this method to close the furnace cameras is more labor -intensive and less effective than the first, moreover, to save, using metal instead of brick, it is unlikely that it will be possible.
	After the lower furnace part of the furnace is partially or completely dressed in brickwork, you can proceed to insulation of the hob. since the clay solution has a low thermal conductivity and lies well on the surface, it is perfect for creating a “fur coat” for the upper part of the furnace. A thick and plastic clay mixture with the addition of sifted sand is prepared for this, in the approximate proportions of 1: 2 or 1: 3, depending on the fat content of clay. Sometimes in order for the frozen solution to crack less after drying, it is added a little lime. While the solution is infused, the outer cast iron surface of the hob is tightened with a metal mesh with a “rabits” with cells of 15 ÷ 20 mm – it reinforces the insulation layer well, and will also contribute to the delay of the solution before it is solidified on a sufficiently smooth surface. The grid is fixed to a brickwork located on the sides and the rear of the furnace chamber. Then, a clay solution is applied on top of the mesh. You can lay it in two layers, the first of which is not necessary to smooth it to the ideal, and the second is aligned with the help of a trowel, a wide spatula or ironing iron. In total, the thickness of the layer after drying should be approximately 50 ÷ 70 mm.
	When the furnace is ready and insulated, it needs to give the most aesthetic appearance, that is, to make it not only a functional device, but also a decorative decoration of landscape design. Some owners of the sites prefer to leave a brickwork in a natural form, and cover the clay “fur coat” with whitewashing in several layers.
	Another option may be the finish of the entire design with ceramic tiles. Moreover, for this case, the remains and even the battle from the different color of tile materials are suitable, and this will help to save significantly on the decoration. If the tile is divided into small pieces, then they will get an excellent original mosaic. sometimes finish is carried out by natural stone, cut into plates with a thickness of 10 ÷ 12 mm. The finishing material should be laid on a special heat -resistant composition.
	As a result, you get a great stove in which you can cook daily in the summer, saving electricity or gas. Moreover, the food cooked in the furnace is always more fragrant and tasty than the one that is prepared on a gas or electric stove.

As a result, you can benefit from building a stove out of an old bath simultaneously in multiple ways:

• Attach an old thing with maximum benefit.
• Decorate landscape design exclusive, and most importantly – a very functional accessory.
• Save on building materials, and later on the fuel (energy source) when cooking.
• Get the opportunity to cook diverse, not only tasty, but also healthy dishes every day.

If you’re interested in learning how to build a stove from scratch, here are detailed instructions you can follow.

How to use the old cast-iron bath in a different way?

An old cast-iron bath can be turned into a barbek stove for a summer cottage as well as a number of other practical items.

• From a part of the cast -iron bath you get a great firebox for the fireplace. The convenience of such use is that you do not need to remove complex semicircular shape of the hearth from bricks. To fold a neat fireplace with a furnace with an arched vault, you will have to make a template from boards or plywood, and then make complex manipulations of the lining of it with brick. The cut part of the old bath already has the desired shape, and that can easily withstand the weight of the masonry. It remains only to make a chimneous hole in its “ceiling” and put on a cast -iron furnace with brickwork, and then arrange a fireplace portal from the outside.

The bathroom can be divided in half to create an arched vault over the fireplace.

• You can also make a furnace camera for a bathhouse from a sawn cast iron bath. In this case, it is installed in the same way as in the manufacture of a fireplace – a dome up. Part of the bath is installed on the concrete base located in the steam bath, and the edge where the bath is located is built into the wall and put into another room, from where the furnace firebox will be produced. Then, the cut hole is overlapped with a brick wall, into which the furnace and blowing door is installed.

You can construct a stove-stove for a bathhouse from the cut bath.

In the pair, a wall is also constructed at an 80 × 100 mm distance from the bathtub around the entire perimeter, with a height that should match the height of a cast-iron capacity. Moreover, the entire area that remains around the bathtub and a brick wall is covered in stones that will heat up during the stove and provide the steam room with the required heat.

• Another area of use of old cast -iron baths is the manufacture of garden furniture, reliable and durable, which will last decades. Carefully cutting the bath along, you can get a convenient “sofa”, which is installed in the gazebo or near the Barbek stove. In this case, you get a whole set for decorating the landscape design of the garden plot. Such a "sofa" is not afraid of rain, snow, high and low temperatures. It does not require special care – it is enough to wipe it with a damp and then dry cloth. Smooth surfaces of the sofa easily paint, both from the inside and outside, and stitching soft pillows, you can rest on it not only sitting, but lying down, stretching out into full height.

Garden couches from former bathrooms

Apart from "sofas," any bathtub can be transformed into two useful "chairs" by cutting it across. When such "chairs" are outfitted with exquisite legs, you can obtain something unique and nearly timeless. The only negative aspect of cast-iron "furniture" is its enormous weight, which makes moving it around difficult.

You can construct a pair of sturdy, nearly eternal garden chairs.

Some artisans are able to create a set that includes a floor lamp from a bathtub or an original coffee table with an integrated lamp.

• Most often, old cast -iron baths exported to suburban areas are used as containers for the device of an artificial pond, which will certainly become an excellent decoration of the territory. The bowl is installed in a prepared foundation pit, to which a sewage pipe is brought, and its ground part is made to the taste of the owners of the cottage.

An artificial pond in a garden plot is an additional use option.

In this scenario, the only complicated work will be excavating, inserting the container’s tank into the pit, and connecting it to the runoff. You won’t need to cut the bath.

Details regarding the folding mechanism of the Pompeiic stove might be of interest to you.

The inventiveness of Russian summer residents never fails to astound, and it seems that those who serve only antiques at their locations are given a "second life." After looking through the options offered, someone might feel inspired and driven to design their own stove or other useful item for rural environments. If such an inventor posts his accomplishments on the pages of our portal, there will be slaves. Click the link to study solid fuel boiler.

Video: A good example of the construction of a garden furnace from an old bath

Afanasyev Evgeny, Chief Editor

The publication’s author on January 13, 2016

"Transforming your home into a cozy and energy-efficient haven is within reach with the right DIY approach to heating and insulation. By taking matters into your own hands, you not only save on costs but also gain a deeper understanding of your home"s inner workings. From simple weather-stripping and caulking to more advanced insulation techniques, there"s a plethora of accessible methods to enhance warmth and reduce energy bills. Whether it"s insulating attics, walls, or floors, or installing programmable thermostats and radiant heating systems, DIY solutions empower homeowners to customize their homes for maximum comfort and sustainability. With a bit of research, the right tools, and a can-do attitude, you can tackle heating and insulation projects with confidence, making your home a snug retreat all year round."

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