Are you considering adding radiant floor heating to your house? There’s nowhere else to look! We’ll take you step-by-step through the process of building a hydronic floor heating system, another name for radiant floor heating, in this guide. Radiant floor heating can effectively and comfortably heat any area in your house, whether you’re building a new one or remodeling an old one.
Warm water is circulated through pipes or tubes that are positioned beneath the floor to provide radiant floor heating. The floor radiates heat upward as it warms, uniformly heating the space from the bottom up. In addition to being energy-efficient, this kind of heating gives you more design freedom by doing away with the need for large radiators or vents.
Understanding the many parts of a radiant floor heating system is crucial before beginning the installation process. To heat the water and distribute it throughout the floor, you’ll need tubing and a heat source, such as a boiler or water heater. In order to prevent heat loss to the earth below and to ensure that heat is directed upward into your living space, insulation is also necessary.
Selecting the appropriate tubing type for your radiant floor heating system is one of the most important decisions you’ll have to make. Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) or PEX-aluminum-PEX (PEX-AL-PEX) tubing are the two most commonly used systems. Both solutions are appropriate for use in a range of floor types, such as concrete, tile, and wood, due to their strength, flexibility, and corrosion resistance.
It’s time to begin your DIY installation now that you have a basic understanding of the components and operation of radiant floor heating. To help you achieve the highest level of comfort and efficiency in your home, we’ll walk you through the planning, preparation, and installation of your radiant floor heating system in the sections that follow.
Materials Needed | Steps to Follow |
1. Plywood or OSB sheets | 1. Measure the area of the floor to determine the amount of material needed. |
2. Vapor barrier (plastic sheeting) | 2. Clean the floor surface thoroughly to ensure proper adhesion of materials. |
3. Pipe insulation foam tubes | 3. Lay down the vapor barrier, overlapping the edges and securing them with tape. |
4. PEX tubing | 4. Lay the plywood or OSB sheets over the vapor barrier, ensuring they are securely fastened. |
5. Insulation material (fiberglass or foam board) | 5. Install pipe insulation foam tubes around the perimeter of the floor, securing them in place. |
6. Fasteners (screws or nails) | 6. Lay out the PEX tubing in the desired pattern, leaving space for expansion joints and connections to the water supply. |
7. Install the insulation material between the PEX tubing, ensuring complete coverage. | |
8. Secure the PEX tubing in place with fasteners, avoiding puncturing the tubing. | |
9. Test the system for leaks before covering it with the finished flooring material. | |
10. Once tested, cover the floor with the chosen flooring material, ensuring it is compatible with radiant heating systems. |
- What is the charm of a warm floor?
- Step 1. Prepare the base
- Step 2. Install the distribution collector
- Step 3. The laying of thermal insulation
- Step 4. Laying vapor barrier
- Step 5. Laying a reinforcing grid
- Step 6. Installation of the damping tape
- Step 7. Warm floor pipe layout
- Laying pipes of a warm floor with a snail
- Laying pipes with a snake
- Step 8. The system is crimping
- Step 9. Fill the screed
- The cost of laying a warm floor
- The maximum length of the floor laying circuit
What is the charm of a warm floor?
Every site receives the most consistent heating because the warm floor’s pipes are distributed throughout the whole space. You will feel at ease in your home no matter where you are.
Most of the time, you eliminate water floors caused by heating radiators that once took up extra room in your home. Love water warm floors in private homes are ideal for all these features. Let’s take it step by step and figure it out with your own hands.
Step 1. Prepare the base
A black screed serves as the foundation for a warm floor in the house, and it is typically not poured with great care. Thus, remove any extra trash from the screed’s surface before beginning to lay floors. Shake any influxes to a flat state if present. Trim any recesses if you find them. The integrity of the system itself will benefit in the future from these factors.
Step 2. Install the distribution collector
The coolant distribution throughout the contours is the camshaft’s responsibility. It occurs in both basic performances (with just taps) and complex performances (with flow meters and servo drive nests). We advise you to install the second choice. It is more practical to "calibrate" the work of warm sexes with him.
Place the collector as close to the floor’s center as possible. Your contour will then have a similar length. This can be very helpful in fine-tuning the floors even more.
Step 3. The laying of thermal insulation
You had to take the required steps in order to install thermal insulation. Given the size of the insulation sheets, they can lie unsteadily on the tubercles and in nooks and crannies where they can be remembered.
Polistyle, which has a density of 35 kg/m3, is utilized as isolation. It’s the same foam, but with more density. Such a density is required to prevent the thickness of the insulation from decreasing under the screed’s weight.
For the first floors, the insulation should be at least 5 cm thick. It is preferable to take advantage of the chance to lay the insulation thicker if it is feasible. Heat loss is directly impacted by thickness. We are not meant to be warmed by the lower layers. Every warmth ought to aim for.
Step 4. Laying vapor barrier
Regular polyethylene is used as the vapor barrier, and it is layered over polystyrene foam. The aggressive environment of the screed for insulation is greatly reduced as a result, potentially increasing its service life. Negative aspects of screed’s influence on isolation in practice have not yet been established by anyone.
Step 5. Laying a reinforcing grid
The pipe of a heated floor cannot be improved by hand without the use of reinforcing mesh. You cannot lay the grid if the pipe can be fixed with unique brackets or another method.
We advise purchasing a net with a cell size of 10 or 15 centimeters, as even as possible. It is convenient to arrange the pipes of a warm floor with a cell size like this. It is advised that the grid bar have a thickness of 4 mm.
Step 6. Installation of the damping tape
The purpose of the damping tape is to offset the screed’s thermal expansion. installed all the way around those walls where the warm floor pipes are going to be installed. It is reasonably priced. 10 cm wide, made of foamed polyethylene. Both with and without an adhesive base, it occurs. Attach the tape to the plastered wall using glue. We tie it to what will be practical in the remaining cases.
Step 7. Warm floor pipe layout
Once you’ve made all the required arrangements, you can begin installing the pipes underneath. While there are multiple approaches to pipe layout, only one is more frequently employed.
Laying pipes of a warm floor with a snail
With this configuration, hot coolant is used in the first pipe, cooled in the second, hot coolant in the third, and so on. The entire warm floor circuit is covered by the installation plan, which maximizes the uniform distribution of heat.
The pipe’s installation tool is very basic. As you begin to lay out the pipe along the conditional circuit’s perimeter, aim to get closer and closer to the center. In this instance, give the pipe back some room to be returned. Starting with a step of 15 cm, you lay out the pipe using a step of 30 cm. Once at the center, open the pipe and walk back between the pipes that were previously arranged. Everything is seen more clearly in the image. Try to use this layout method as much as possible.
Laying pipes with a snake
From the start of the circuit to its conclusion, the pipe is laid according to the "there" principle in this warm floor scheme. In this instance, the circuit will start off hot and end up colder. It is unnecessary to discuss the even distribution of heat. In situations where laying out the pipe with a snail is not feasible, this method works perfectly. These are typically a few compact spaces in the shape of a hallway, bathroom, or other space.
Step 8. The system is crimping
In order to ensure that the pipe is tight, you must criminalize the heated floor before finishing the installation. Giving a warm floor with air to pressure of 4 bar is what we advise.
You will need a standard compressor for crimping, and it needs to be connected to a water collector that is waterproof.
After a day, remove the system and observe the pressure drop. You can fill the floors once the system is sealed and has changed by one or two divisions per day. Keep an eye on the pressure as well during the pouring. There’s a potential that the pipe may get damaged during the filling process.
We’ll walk you through the steps of building a do-it-yourself radiant floor heating system in this article. Radiant floor heating uses pipes buried beneath the floor to circulate warm water, providing effective and cozy warmth. You can take on this project with confidence if you adhere to our detailed instructions, which will guarantee correct installation and top performance. Everything will be taken care of by us, including laying out the tubing and connecting it to your current heating system. You can boost your home’s energy efficiency and take advantage of the cozy comforts of radiant floor heating with the correct tools and methods.
Step 9. Fill the screed
You may now begin filling, taking care to arrange and crimp the pipe. Pour the screed until it is at least 5 cm above the pipe’s top. Pouring the "wet" screed is the better option. Her thermal conductivity is higher.
You are not allowed to use an additional 21 days after pouring the screed over warm floors. It takes a considerable amount of time for the screed to dry evenly. You can begin finishing a few days after pouring.
The cost of laying a warm floor
A lot of people are curious about how much the warm floor method costs. We are going to exchange some numbers. Including all of the above, the cost of components will come to approximately 1000–1200 rubles per square meter, excluding the boiler room and screed filling. To get the total cost per square meter, add the installer’s cost in your area. Large areas may occasionally attract collectors for a warm floor in this quantity.
Installing a turnkey warm floor will set you back about 2500 rubles per square meter, not including the boiler room. A boiler room with one boiler, an indirect heating boiler, and associated equipment is considered at this cost. The figures apply to homes up to 150 square meters. Given the high cost of boiler equipment, the amount might be a little bit higher with a smaller area.
The maximum length of the floor laying circuit
If you create a warm floor by hand without using a project or diagrams, we advise keeping the circuit’s length between 80 and 90 meters. There is no need to be concerned if it ends up lasting a little longer. Thus, it’s best to avoid creating too lengthy contours.
It is advised to compute the contours such that every length is within the same plus or minus. You won’t have as much trouble balancing after that.
To keep your home comfortable and cut down on energy expenses, make sure your insulation and heating system are operating efficiently. Proper installation of a do-it-yourself radiant floor heating system is one aspect of this that is frequently disregarded. When installed properly, this system can give your house a pleasant, comfortable temperature all winter long.
When starting a do-it-yourself water underfloor heating project, precision is essential. Start by carefully arranging the tubing to guarantee uniform heat distribution. Consider things like the size of the room, where the furniture is positioned, and possible heat loss areas. Planning ahead will help you maximize the efficiency of your system and prevent unneeded issues later on.
A successful radiant floor heating system depends on the water piping being installed correctly. Make use of premium materials and pay close attention to manufacturer instructions. Make sure the tubing is firmly fastened to avoid it moving or getting damaged during later stages of construction. Check the system thoroughly for leaks before starting the flooring material installation.
Maintaining your DIY water underfloor heating system effectively and for a longer period of time requires regular maintenance. Check for leaks on a regular basis, particularly in areas where tubing connections are made. To stop additional harm, monitor the system’s performance and take quick action to fix any problems. Your radiant floor heating system can deliver dependable warmth for many years to come with the right maintenance.
In conclusion, homeowners wishing to increase the comfort and energy efficiency of their homes may find that DIY water underfloor heating is a fulfilling project. You can take advantage of the advantages of a comfortable and economical heating solution by carefully designing the layout, selecting high-quality materials, and performing routine maintenance. You can create a cozy and welcoming living area for you and your family to enjoy with careful attention to detail and a dedication to excellence.