DIY Two -story collector heating system. Photo

Are you trying to figure out a good way to keep your two-story house warm in the winter? Think about constructing a two-story collector heating system yourself. This do-it-yourself project blends creativity and pragmatism to provide an affordable way to heat your house and save energy costs. We’ll go over the specifics of building your own collector heating system in this post, along with useful pictures to help you along the way.

Since installing and maintaining traditional heating systems can be costly, many homeowners are looking for other solutions. A collector heating system uses the sun’s energy to heat your entire house, which is economical and environmentally beneficial. You can design a heating system that meets your unique requirements and tastes by using easily accessible materials and straightforward construction methods.

The collectors themselves are one of the most important parts of a two-story collector heating system. Usually, these collectors are installed where they can receive the most sunlight—on the roof or on an elevated structure. The collectors gather solar energy and transfer it to a fluid that circulates within the system using metal plates or black tubing. The heat is then transferred by this fluid to a storage tank or straight into the heating system of your house.

You can customize the design of your collector heating system to match the layout and climate of your house by building it yourself. It is possible to optimize the performance of your system regardless of whether you live in a sunny or more overcast area. Furthermore, as you take charge of the comfort and energy use in your house, do-it-yourself projects like this one give you a sense of empowerment and satisfaction.

To help you visualize each step of the process, we’ll include clear instructions and photos throughout this article. We’ll go over everything you need to know to finish this project successfully, from material selection to collector assembly and connection to your current heating system. So grab a rag and let’s start this fulfilling journey toward a more effective and sustainable home heating solution.

Choosing pipes for a heating system for a residential building or apartment

It’s important to consider the pipe-laying technique when designing a collector scheme for heating a low-rise residential building or other private construction. Purchasing heating pipes is advised if pipe wiring is done beneath the floor, in a concrete screed, in order to avoid making the previously mentioned floor connections.

Plastic pipes should be sufficiently flexible, their material should not corrode or be affected by aggressive media, they shouldn’t be destroyed at extreme temperatures, and they should have an exceptionally long lifespan.

The mounted heating system’s operating characteristics in the home or apartment dictate the requirements for temperature stability and pipe strength for the gap. The maximum temperature range for individual development should be between 50 and 75 seconds, and the pipes’ pressure should not be higher than 1.5 atm. The coolant in the pipes should not get any hotter than the 30s to 40s Celsius if the "warm floor" system in the house is to function.

When installing a collector scheme, the coolant temperature should be between 110 and 120 degrees Celsius, and the pipe material should withstand ≥ 10-15 atm of pressure. Therefore, it is advised to use corrugated stainless steel pipes rather than metal-plastic or PVC products when wiring heating pipes in apartment buildings. You could mention the Kofulso brand of pipes, which can withstand pressures exceeding 15 atm, as an example that is currently in use. at a coolant temperature of at least 110C. This material is destroyed by a pressure force of 215 kgf/cm², which is a very good indicator.

These stainless steel pipes can be bent to almost any shape and location without worrying about the excess pipe leaking because their bending radius is equal to their diameter. This type of pipe wiring is done in compounds with special fittings, and the twist is secured with counterparty to guarantee a tight connection between silicone-sealed corrugated pipes.

However, stainless steel is not the least expensive material, and a project of this nature involving collector wiring of pipes in a two- or three-story building will come with a fairly high price tag. Using this with pE-X brands, for instance, makes sense. Similar to other PVC products, these pipes are made and sold in bays. A single pipe can have a length of 200 meters, and the material can tolerate pressures of up to 10 kgf/cm2 and system coolant temperatures of up to 95 degrees. It is acceptable to temporarily raise the temperature to 110C.

Stitched polyethylene water pipes are also connected by means of special fittings, which are either plastic or metal (brass, copper, or bronze) and have a locking ring that is tightened on the pipe to hermetically squeeze it. These pipes have the benefit of having stitched polyethylene with mechanical memory, meaning that assembly follows this pattern: the pipe is stretched using a special extender to allow the fitting to be inserted, and after a little period of time (up to a minute), the pipe takes on its initial diameter and squeezes the fittings tightly. Furthermore, a locking ring provides tightness.

The choice of a distribution collector

Utilizing the distribution collector offers several benefits and is both practical and convenient. Knowing which heating devices will be connected to a distribution collector beforehand will help you select the appropriate one. The type of collector you choose will also depend on what other devices you need.

Selecting manufacturers with a track record in the industry, reading customer feedback on products, and speaking with multiple sellers about the same collector are all preferable.

Whatever your options, you must keep in mind that high-quality distribution collectors and the parts that go with them cannot be purchased for a low price.

The specifics of the distributor

The collector’s design

A heating system’s collector is a distribution-style component that helps to distribute heat evenly. The water cools and returns to the boiler as a result of circulation turning. The highway branches that are thrown onto the distributor run on their own.

The design of the device

The intermediate node is divided into two sections. When cooling, the supplier comb draws the coolant to the heat generator and the other way around brings it to the communications. A collector group consists of two combs, and you can connect one outline or multiple turns to heating devices on each of them. Every contour has regulated internal pressure.

Features of work

The idea behind collector heating is to use a heat generator to warm the water before it enters the comb. Owing to the node’s large internal diameter, the liquid inside slows down and is dispersed throughout the discharge.

Through connecting pipes that have a smaller diameter than the distributor, the coolant is transferred to each individual circuit. Every element can be heated evenly by directing heated water into radiators or a warm floor system.

The water travels to the distributor via a separate pipeline after entering the circuit and heat source. It will be going in the other direction. Once the coolant reaches the reverse comb, it is directed towards the heat generator.

Varieties of collectors

Radiator heating collector

The collector is intended for use with a heating system with closed circulation. The gadget has undergone multiple changes.

Radiator collectors

Water is distributed uniformly throughout each section with the help of the water device, which is powered by a battery. It can be introduced diagonally, from the side, from the top, or from below. The best installation for an apartment is lower because the contours are hidden under the baseboards or flooring.

Every floor of a private home is outfitted with radiator distributors. They are positioned in the middle of the wiring, concealed in cabinets or niches. Every withdrawal uses a separate circulation pump if the collector devices do not display the same number of rings.

The mechanisms of the radiator type have the following connection features:

• The branches of the distribution form separate contours with a shut -off reinforcement;
• For warm floors, a copper or polypropylene type of pipes is used;
• the connection is carried out using improper fittings;
• For adjusting the number of coolant, valves are placed;
• circulation nanos is located in an intermediate node at the entrance to the return pipe;
• The number of pipes depends on the number of rooms connected to one comb.

Thermal hydraulic distributor

Hydrofoil

A multi-story building is connected to a productive or branched heat supply system that uses the hydraulic shootout. The circuit is shown on one side of the link link, under the heating boiler, on the warm floors, or on the second-heating batteries.

The camshaft offers:

• elimination of sharp leaps for water temperature;
• increasing operational resources in the system;
• fuel and electricity savings;
• the preservation of the constant volume of water in the tank through the marketing and secondary circulation;
• compensation for the costs of the coolant of the secondary circuit;
• separation of the hydraulic contour of the boiler from secondary wiring;
• support for the temperature balance of heating communications.

Solar collector devices

SCREMICAL ALLECTOR SCREMENT

Solar collectors can be used to provide heating in areas without a self-sufficient water supply or in non-stamped areas. Structural devices function as solar energy-accumulating greenhouses. The absorbing plate’s fans are produced by the coolant’s natural circulation flows.

The distributor is accepted by Sunny Rays in the shape of a flat drawer. Heat flows are collected on a black heat acceptance plate and then transferred to a heat carrier, such as water or air flow. New systems operate in the direction of the sun’s movement.

Solar units are known for their high cost, and they are used as an auxiliary heating source even in the southern states.

Disadvantages and advantages of the collector scheme

The benefits of the collector scheme offset the intricacy of the pipe wiring during implementation:

Every radiator is a self-contained, independently operated component.

Since each thermal pipeline connected to the collector from the heating system transports hot fluid to a single heating device, it is more prudent to use pipes with a reduced diameter than the calculated general diameter of the pipes. This means that you can set the desired temperature in each room regardless of the temperature in the boiler or in other heating circuits, or you can turn off the radiators (radiator group) without stopping the heating system. In this situation, it is advised to keep the bare minimum of space between the collector and the heating device or set of radiators.

Customers value the factory-made or home-made collector heating system, which is shown above for general cases, because it allows them to create multiple independent heating contours with varying pressure and temperature. With this plan, you can set up various temperature settings for various rooms within a single building using a single boiler. An additional version of the collector is outfitted with a hydraulic shooter that resembles an enormous tap pipe on the outside in order to connect multiple circuits.

The hydraulic shotus is not mounted like a collector; instead, the circulation cycle is closed between the return pipe and the heat carrier supply pipe. The coolant in the hydraulic rifle starts to move as the boiler keeps heating the liquid in the primary circuit, enabling it to collide with the radiator at various levels and points.

There will be varying temperature and pressure rates as a result of the unusual connection of radiators to a hydraulic shotgun at the end of a separate heat receiver (radiator). It is advisable to incorporate a hydraulic shotgun when combining the "warm floor" system with radiator-based heating pipes. artisanal hydroshooter

The temperature and pressure in the pipes will vary at the contours’ points of entry, but if the collector and its drawings—which were made for circulation pumps—are used, then the variations are irrelevant. Additionally, the heating circuits may be connected in a sequential manner (with a maximum of two circuits); however, this arrangement will make it impossible for the circuits to be independently controlled.

The following are some drawbacks of the pipe wiring collector organization:

1. The energy consumption of the collector scheme is higher than with the sequential connection of batteries. Moreover, the more heated area, the higher the heat expenses;
2. Collector heating equipment is inherent in work only in a one- or two-pipe structure of the heating system, which can be diluted along the walls of the premises. But when organizing radiation wiring, it will not work out pipes on the walls or a hidden way due to the large volume of the practical scheme and a large number of heating pipes;
3. When laying pipes in the floor under the concrete screed, the following shortcomings of the method are manifested: for pipes laid under the floor, it is not allowed to make any compounds-neither welded, nor threads, nor any others to prevent a hidden leak, otherwise you will have to remove the layer concrete screed, and this is almost a major overhaul of the room with all the ensuing consequences;
4. The total hydraulic resistance of the collector contour of the heating will be significant, especially the feast of laying pipes with a small diameter. Also, when implementing the collector pattern of pipes, it is necessary to use the circulation pump (pumps), since natural pressure in the pipes will not allow the coolant to move freely through the pipes;
5. When using several autonomous heating contours in the collector heating scheme, its circulation pump is mandatory for each large circuit. This leads to financial costs both during the installation of the system and in the process of its operation;
6. The energy dependence of the collector heating system is one of its significant disadvantages, since circulation pumps require connection to the mains. With an emergency shutdown of electricity, the heating will not be able to provide the required thermal regime, since the movement of the coolant through the pipeline will simply stop.

The configuration of the mixing unit

The above list contains the main nodes that you will need to assemble the mixing unit by hand. The table below will provide a more thorough description of the completeness.

Other components of the pipeline installation, such as American and other couplings, can be used in addition to the mixing unit that is specified for assembly. They must be ascertained at the mixer installation site. You must have a way to seal the compounds using the materials.

The collector, or heating system control panel, is the end product of the mixer assembly.

Gatherer of a residential heating system

It can be kept in specially made collector cabinets in a basement or on a residential property, and it can be very simple or very complex. The availability of maintenance and repair services is crucial.

Video: how to assemble a mixing knot with your own hands

With the knowledge gained from this article about the interactions between the various components of the mixing unit, even a developer with little experience in locksmithing will be able to handle the assembly task. Mount one contour carefully, and the others will work like a clockwork. I hope you have success!

How I did the installation of collector wiring with my own hands.

1. I made the decision to equip my home’s basement with a gas floor boiler.

The boiler was placed on a concrete screed, five centimeters thick.

2. He used a metal pipe with a 32 mm diameter for the installation of the main pipelines.

3. A closed type expansion tank mounted on a supply pipe.

4. A circulation pump was installed on the return pipe.

The device can be changed without draining the coolant by installing cranes on both sides of the pump.

It is necessary to create forced circulation in the heating system. In addition to making the system simpler and more compact, forced circulation increases the coolant’s heating efficiency.

5. We install the collector (distribution "combs") on the main pipelines.

The combs are positioned so that the floor’s segments of each heating device are roughly equal.

For instance, the coolant pressure drop on an extended segment will be significantly higher than on a short one if the distance between the collector and one radiator is ten times greater than that of the other. An imbalance in the system is inevitable.

Furthermore, a two-fold difference is not deemed intolerable.

6. A ball crane is a locking reinforcement unique to each collector divert.

This makes it possible to unplug any radiator from the system as needed without affecting the functionality of other heating components. In essence, every circuit is a separate heating system.

I can’t get enough of this convenient stuff!

7. A metal corner that was positioned vertically held both collectors in place.

8. A 15 mm-diameter metal pipe was used to install the wiring for the rooms on the basement ceiling.

9. The contour rays that are linked to the metal-plastic pipe collectors.

10. I put in a crane on the return pipe so I could fuel the entire system with it.

Eleven. He punctured the holes in the floor slabs where the pipes go straight to the heating units.

12. Heating radiators linked via a metal-plastic pipe to the contour risers.

Using collector wiring for heating I take advantage of the second winter. There were no significant malfunctions with the system, but I did have to "compete" with the air formation. This is going to be its own article.

We make a distribution collector

We compute the amount of material required to make the collector. Using Excel’s electric tables is the simplest way to accomplish this. This program also allows you to determine the cost of the materials needed to manufacture the device. We obtain the required raw materials and get the equipment ready for self-sufficient production.

The standard or square cross-sectional pipes will be the starting materials for the collector’s main components. We use a caliper, ruler, and core to mark them as needed.

We apply the appropriate marking.

Make holes underneath the nozzles with a gas cutter.

We create nozzle-holes.

Place the pipes (segments of pipes with threads) into the seats.

Welding is how we fix the pipes. First, scald the outside of the circle.

We use welding to fix the pipes.

Additionally, weld was done on the brackets that secure the housing to the wall.

Welded to the bracket’s hull

We remove rust and scale from the welding areas.

We sanitize the areas used for welding.

We apply a degreasing composition to the entire structure before painting and varnishing it.

We use a degreasing solution, paint, and varnish the surface.

After two or three days, the paint is fully absorbed, and we dispose of it using a distribution collector that we made ourselves. All that’s left to do is install it and link all incoming and outgoing contours to it.

Ready-to-assemble distribution collector at home

A straightforward stack of heating pipes will not function as efficiently as the distribution collector system.

We suggest watching a training video to fully understand the subtleties involved in the independent manufacture of a distribution collector and the breadth of its application.

In this article, we"ll delve into the world of DIY heating systems for your home, specifically focusing on a two-story collector system. With a keen eye on affordability and sustainability, we"ll explore how you can harness the power of solar energy to heat your house efficiently and economically. Through clear, step-by-step instructions accompanied by illustrative photos, we aim to empower homeowners to take charge of their heating solutions, reducing reliance on traditional, often expensive methods. Whether you"re environmentally conscious, budget-conscious, or simply enjoy a good DIY project, this article will guide you through the process of creating your own two-story collector heating system, making your home warmer and your energy bills lighter.

Making a solar manifold alternative heating in your house

The general public’s interest in renewable energy sources has grown recently. Because of this, a lot of homeowners want to purchase a solar collector, which uses solar energy to heat water in a home. However, purchasing a solar collector for heating from a store isn’t always a sensible option. The finished device is expensive, so making such a purchase could be very taxing on the family’s finances.

You can build your own solar vacuum collector to heat your home without spending money. Reviews of various solar collectors for home heating are generally positive and include the following useful information:

• tank for accumulating heated water;
• heat exchanger;
• device for collecting solar energy;
• insulating layer.

There is a wide range of materials that can be used to create the collector. It is known that solar collectors made of polypropylene, common garden hoses, window frames, plastic bottles, and other improvised materials can be produced on one’s own. After the owner has decided on the collector’s concept, the collector assembly scheme should be studied because it directly affects the type of material chosen.

Fully functional sources of heating can be achieved with separate vacuum solar collectors for home heating, which retail for $200 or more.

Advantages of vacuum solar collectors include the following:

1. energy efficiency;
2. environmental friendliness;
3. autonomy;
4. availability.

It’s not hard to make solar collectors or conventional distribution for home heating on your own. Large material costs, the availability of sophisticated technological equipment, and extensive experience are not necessary for this. However, these handcrafted devices greatly optimize the home’s heating system and assist the owner in creating a consistent, dependable, and efficient source of heat for their residence.

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We advise you to read

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The purpose of the heating manifold

In the case of a water heating system without a camshaft, the water may perform unevenly in various system contours. Consequently, you will either have cold radiators and a heated floor, or the opposite.

This may occur as a result of multiple heating system contours being connected to a single boiler output pipe. In these kinds of compounds, the fluid flows unevenly, which leaves some areas of the premises without adequate heat. However, the heat supply system’s efficiency is directly dependent on the volume, velocity, and amount of coolant flowing through the pipes.

Pipe

Some homeowners are installing more pumps and regulatory valves in an attempt to address this issue. However, this does not always result in an even distribution of the coolant; rather, it just makes things more complicated.

How the coolant is distributed in a private house?

Consider the heating system for a 100-square-foot private residence. A wall gas boiler with a single ¾-inch-diameter output pipe will serve as the water heating apparatus.

Two heating circuits and one circuit for indirect heating are present in the house, where water is heated for domestic use. Every contour is constructed using 1-inch-diameter pipes. How can an efficient heat supply system be designed and calculated?

First of all, we are aware that a basic deficiency of coolant in the system is the primary cause of a low-quality heat supply. However, extremely narrow distribution pipelines are the primary cause of this shortage.

Therefore, there are two ways to increase the diameter of the distribution pipes in order to increase the thermal system’s efficiency:

• When using boilers with built -in pumps, a hydraulic rifle (flows distributor) is connected to them). At the same time, on each heat consumption circuit, it is necessary to install its own circulation pump. But such a device will only work in a small building. With an increase in heated areas, its effectiveness and reliability drops sharply.
• The most reliable way will be to connect to the heat source of the water distribution collector.

Camp planning is the most ideal kind of distribution collector. It effectively solves the issues of connecting pipes with varying diameters and coolant volume placement.

Four circuits with a distribution hydraulic collector

Think about how you could build the heat flood distribution networks by hand.

Self -assembly of a collector installation

Node for collecting polypropylene

You can create a distribution collector of various materials by hand. I’ll have to decide which tools I need, figure things out, and draw something. The number of circuits, the existence of heated floors, the rooms with the highest and lowest temperatures, and the kind of heating on each floor are all considered in the computation.

The collector’s manure should be separated from the feed and return combs by a distance of 10-15 cm and 25-30 cm, respectively. Depending on the type of boiler, the device’s diameter will vary, but 25.4–38.1 mm should be sufficient.

Polypropylene device

A polypropylene collector mechanism can be constructed using a 32 mm diameter pipe and tees for 32/32/16 mm. A tee is positioned on one side of the apparatus, connecting the drain valve at the bottom to the air descent at the top. There is a bend/feed pipe and valve on the opposite side. The boiler receives the feed.

A 16 mm diameter division has a valve installed. With cronthet, the entire structure is fastened to the wall.

Latun knot

Brass fittings and tees can be used to construct a DIY distributor. Linen pack will be used for the lining. The device is tested after it is assembled. It will continue if the connection is incorrect.

Collector from the professional pipe

If you have welding experience, you can create a model of a big house with multiple pipes for wiring. A round pipe and a professional 8×8 or 10×10 cm pipe make up the hydraulic fire system. Their cross section is computed using the system’s thermal power, the water’s velocity, and the indicators of temperature difference at the supply and return points.

The wiring has been shifted 15 cm, and the collectors 20 cm. The pipe is positioned in accordance with the drawing, and a gas cutter creates the wiring apertures. The tubes’ small sections are welded to the block beforehand. Installation brackets are welded to the device following assembly.

Circulation pump

Without a circulation pump, the coolant in a single-story house with forced circulation cannot flow through its pipes, either in a single-pipe or two-pipe heating system. The first thing you need to consider when selecting a pump is its power.

The following formula is used to determine the necessary power for the pump:

• Q = qn / 1.163 x dt,
• Where Q is the power of the pump,
• QN – the amount of heat required for warming up the house,
• DT – temperature difference in the contours of the feed and return.

In close proximity to the boiler, on the reverse circuit pipe, should be the circulation pump. A backpass for heating with three taps and a filter to stop the pump in the heating system from pumping solid particles must be installed during installation.

Sucking pumps that are intended to be installed on the feed pipe are available on the market. These devices are not often included in the connection diagram of the heating boiler with forced circulation because they are too costly and rarely make sense in the majority of cases.

Flaws

Consider the following fundamental drawbacks before installing a system of that kind in your home:

1. To connect all the components, a much larger pipe is used than with a sequential connection. The larger the area of the house, the more difficult the wiring plan. This increases the difference in costs.
2. Ordinary one- or two-pipe heating is usually mounted on the walls. In the same case, such mounting will not be aesthetic.
3. The location of the carts in the screed has one important factor – there should be no seams or connections. After all, this is a potential leakage place. And opening a concrete floor is an unpleasant venture.
4. The water circuit in total has great resistance, especially when heating a two -story house. Especially when mounting narrow pipes. You can forget about natural circulation right away, because a small difference is definitely not enough. The output is obvious – a powerful pump.
5. Using several contours at once, usually forces you to install the same number of pressure systems. All this increases the consumable part not only at the time of installation, but also during use.
6. Connecting compulsory circulation automatically makes the system dependent on electricity. Any problems with this type of energy can lead to failure of heating with an absolutely working boiler.

Installation of heating with forced circulation in a one -story house

Hand-heated one-story houses are outfitted with technology that facilitates the following operations:

• First of all, the heating boiler is installed;
• A chimney brought outside the building is connected to the boiler;
• When using a gas boiler, it is necessary to connect to the highway (this operation must be performed by specialists from the gas service);
• Heating batteries are installed along the walls in pre -selected places;
• All structural elements are connected by pipelines;
• A circulating pump and an expansion tank crashed into a return pipe;
• Pipelines are brought to the corresponding boiler nozzles;
• The collected system must be launched in test mode, after which it can be put into operation.

All heating system types share this technology; the only slight variations are in the way pipes are laid and radiators are installed.

To increase the warmth and comfort of your house at a reasonable price, building a two-story collector heating system yourself can be a satisfying project. You may drastically lessen your reliance on conventional heating techniques by using the sun’s energy, which will ultimately result in lower energy costs.

Many homeowners can build a solar heating system with the right supplies and a little do-it-yourself expertise. This article’s step-by-step instructions and photo gallery provide a clear road map for finishing the project successfully.

By lowering carbon emissions, a do-it-yourself solar heating system not only promotes a more sustainable future but also offers a hands-on learning and experimentation opportunity. You will learn a great deal about the practical uses of renewable energy technologies as you plan and build your collector system.

Never forget that your safety comes first when working on any do-it-yourself project. To prevent mishaps or property damage, spend some time getting acquainted with the essential safety measures and closely adhering to the directions.

In conclusion, you can design an effective and environmentally friendly heating system for your house by using the techniques described in this article and harnessing the power of solar energy. A two-story collector heating system is a wise investment in the comfort and sustainability of your living space, regardless of your motivations—saving money, the environment, or just the satisfaction of creating something by hand.