DIY heating system with your own hands The best methods of winter heating of greenhouses

It is essential for the health and development of your plants that you keep your greenhouse warm and comfortable during the cold winter months. Commercial heating systems are available, but they can be expensive and don’t always meet your greenhouse’s particular requirements. This is where the usefulness of DIY heating systems lies. Utilizing straightforward but efficient techniques, you can design a heating system that is specific to the size, design, and kinds of plants you are growing in your greenhouse.

Passive solar heating is a highly popular and effective do-it-yourself greenhouse heating method. Using this technique, the interior of your greenhouse will naturally warm up thanks to the sun’s energy. You can help keep your plants at a steady temperature by carefully arranging materials like thermal mass (such as water barrels or rocks) inside your greenhouse. This allows you to absorb and hold heat during the day and release it gradually at night.

Composting is another do-it-yourself heating option to think about. As compost breaks down, heat is produced, which makes it an economical and environmentally friendly way to heat your greenhouse. Utilizing a compost pile or bin inside or close to your greenhouse will allow you to capture this thermal energy and maintain healthy plants all winter long. Additionally, composting enriches your soil with nutrients, which encourages healthier plant growth.

Building a wood stove or rocket mass heater can be a fulfilling do-it-yourself project for those who prefer a more hands-on approach and will give your greenhouse dependable heating. These heating systems provide a flexible and sustainable energy source by using wood as their fuel source to produce warmth. A wood stove or rocket mass heater can effectively heat your greenhouse while reducing energy expenses with the right design and installation.

When it comes to do-it-yourself greenhouse heating systems, efficiency and safety must come first. In particular, when using combustion-based heating methods like wood stoves, make sure you have adequate ventilation to prevent overheating and carbon monoxide buildup. To ensure your plants are growing in the best conditions possible, you should also routinely check the temperature and make any necessary adjustments to your heating system.

Method	Description
Solar Heating	Utilizes sunlight to warm the greenhouse through transparent panels or black-painted containers.
Wood Stove	Uses a wood-burning stove to generate heat, distributing it evenly throughout the greenhouse.

Electric heating

When it comes to the water electric heating device, it operates on the same principle as the gas. Now, the sole difference is the heat source—an induction, electrode, or ten-boiler boiler. Since permits are not required for installation, work can be completed independently.

Making infrared heating with suspended devices is even simpler because they don’t need ventilation to function. They are installed by fastening to the roofing component, just like gas.

An alternative method of heating the winter greenhouse is by laying heating film or an electric heating cable in the ground. In this instance, homemade oil radiators or air heaters (also known as heat tents) are used to heat the interior of the building. You have all the freedom to choose in this situation; if only there was sufficient electric power to summarize.

Notably, even with high tariffs, heating the winter greenhouse with electricity can be cost-effective. Ultimately, the coldest period is at night, when electricity costs are at their lowest and a multi-tariff counter is all that’s required. These systems can also be readily automated and adjusted.

DIY heating in winter

When considering how to warm a greenhouse in the winter, there are a few important factors to consider.

The climate in which the design is located is the primary determinant of winter heating. Nonetheless, a number of points (Figure 9) are independent of this factor:

1. The coating should be transparent and clean – this is how the maintenance of heat inside is ensured.
2. Windows should be equipped at least double glazing for more effective thermal insulation.
3. It is better to make the coating double, for example, use cellular polycarbonate, consisting of a large number of closed cells filled with air.

The greenhouse only needs good thermal insulation in the winter if it is located in a warm climate. The right choice of material to cover can help achieve this. The best options are double glazing, cellular polycarbonate, or plastic film stretched into two layers. Although the Sun provides the majority of the heat, you should always have a thermostat on hand in case the temperature drops noticeably. Another significant factor is the greenhouse’s shape and placement in relation to the horizon’s sides. It is ideal if it is oriented from east to west and has an extended shape.

Note: The best option would be a biological method of heating with manure or compost under the beds if you live in a moderately temperate climate where winter temperatures drop below zero. This bookmark is sufficient for the three chilly winter months. In the event of severe frosts, it is advisable to arrange a backup heating source for security.

Infrared heaters and thermal air pumps work best in a temperate climate, which is defined as one in which winter temperatures drop to -20 degrees. It should be noted that while thermal pumps can sustain a consistent temperature of 15–17 degrees, automatic heating adjustment in infrared heaters is not as simple.

Figure 9. A possible option for winter heating

The most challenging thing to do in a harsh, cold climate is to plan the greenhouse’s winter heating. In this case, a polycarbonate-covered capital structure will be the best choice. If it is feasible to place it next to a water-heated side of the house, that would be fantastic. In this instance, the reverse pipeline of the heating system can be opened by using a metal-plastic pipe buried in the ground for heating.

It will cost more to install an underground soil heating system and a low-power household gas boiler. The benefit of this heating is the greenhouse’s total independence. You can use the standard solid fuel boiler and convectors, which are positioned all the way around the greenhouse, with the same degree of success.

The method for creating winter heating for a greenhouse is explained in detail in the video.

How to choose a boiler for a greenhouse

Whether you choose to use electricity or wood to heat the building, you must first determine how much heat it will require. You cannot complete the calculation without knowing the precise area of the floor and the transparent portion of the greenhouse. It’s also important to research the lowest daily temperature and average wind speed that occur in your area on these days. The "Construction Climatology and Geophysics" standard contains this information.

We find a graph corresponding to the lowest temperature on the nomogram shown above. Next, before meeting with this schedule, we draw a line from the wind speed axis of the abscissa to find the specific heat loss on the order axis in relation to the fence’s coefficient. It is simpler to illustrate the computation using a greenhouse’s 700 m2 floor area and 980 m2 of glazing as an example. Then, based on the schedule, q/k is 388 W/m2 in the wind speed of 4.7 m/s and temperature of -30 °C.

You now need to calculate the fence k coefficient, which is the area of translucent structures divided by the floor area. If k = 980 / 700 = 1.4 in our example, then q = 388k = 388 x 1.4 = 543 W/m2. The only thing left to do is calculate the overall heat loss by multiplying the specific heat loss (543 W/m2) by the greenhouse’s area (700 m2) made of polycarbonate: 700 x 543 = 380000 W, or 380 kWh.

It is necessary to multiply the heat loss by the stock coefficient in order to select a boiler for a greenhouse. Any heat source, whether gas or solid fuel, cannot operate continuously at maximum capacity. The stock coefficient for greenhouses made of polycarbonate or glass will be 1.3, and they must be covered with regular film—at least 1.5.

Suggestions. It is always preferable to choose a solid fuel boiler for long-term burning with a 1.5-hour power supply and large fuel sizes. This will shield you from having to frequently load coal or firewood late at night.

Types of heating of the greenhouse

There are numerous do-it-yourself methods for creating greenhouse heating; we’ll go into more detail about the most well-liked ones here.

Solar heating

One inexpensive and easy way to heat a room is by using the heat from the sun. The soil and the air within the greenhouse are heated by sunlight that filters through the transparent coating on the walls. The greenhouse’s air is warmed by the summer’s intense heat and brightness of the sun. The most important thing is to draw the design somewhere out of the wind and tree shadows.

The drawback of this heating technique is that it is insufficient during the winter months when there are fewer daylight hours and the sun’s light is diminished. Generally speaking, a number of different heating techniques are employed in the winter to maintain a greenhouse’s desired temperature.

Air heating

The use of heating and ventilation equipment is part of this technique. They are available for purchase both assembled in a factory and assembled by hand. In order to accomplish this, a small steel pipe is installed with one end inside the room and the other end taken out through the chimney. There is one minor drawback to this method: during the winter, warm air from bonfires heats the greenhouse, making it extremely fire-prone.

Using furnaces

The most established technique for heating the space is this one. It’s highly economical thanks to the variety of fuel options available. Only the chimney is visible from the outside; the boiler is situated inside the greenhouse. The risk of fire resulting from the boiler’s walls being overheated is one major disadvantage of utilizing such a heating system.

Heating with biological species of fuel

Animal and bird waste (manure, droppings, mullein) overlaps and decomposes, releasing heat in the process. The room can be heated with this.

Crucial! It is important to remember that biological waste moisturises the air during the decomposition process and produces an ideal microclimate for plant growth.

Gas heating

This method is very expensive due to the continuous gas growth trend, and it is not profitable to grow fruits and vegetables under such conditions. A greenhouse can be supplied with gas through a centralized system or by using liquefied gas in cylinders. Unquestionably, one benefit of gas heating is that the greenhouse can have a constant supply of heat.

Using electric energy

Although the method is very simple to use, rising electricity costs have made it less popular in the modern era. Nonetheless, you can select the best heating device for you from the range of models that are available through the network.

The convector is one of these devices. This gadget has a spiral-shaped heating element inside of it. The majority of the greenhouse’s heat is derived from the evenly distributed warm air. Regrettably, convector heat alone is insufficient to warm soil.

A calorifier is a tiny fan with an integrated air heating system. Draws in with its low cost and simplicity of use. A calorifier can guarantee air circulation in addition to warming the air.

Cable as a heating component. The idea behind using the cable to heat the greenhouse is as follows: it is situated where the beds are and around the greenhouse’s perimeter. Warm air is kept inside thanks to the network cable that prevents cold air from entering through the ground.

Heating of the water. Very expensive in terms of money and effort to install. The heated water circulation system is mounted on a system of pipes. As a result, the air in the room is heated in addition to the pipe surfaces. Not only does the water heating system work well, but its installation should only be done by professionals.

Is it possible to warm the greenhouse with candles and bottles

Many owners figure out non-traditional ways to warm the polycarbonate greenhouse in the spring, like using bottles.

There is a situation where cooling happens suddenly quite frequently in the spring. What should be done if the plants have already been planted but the heating has not yet been turned on? There are emergency techniques for raising the temperature in these situations. One of them is a very basic technique that uses water-filled plastic bottles. The bottles’ lids are not twisted, and they are arranged throughout the space. Sunlight heats the water in bottles during the day, and at night, heat transfer and moisture evaporation take place.

The candle-heating method is an intriguing technique (Figure 10). Arcs are positioned in a plant bed and covered in a dense substance, like a spanbond. Within one of these covers is a lit candle that is shielded from the flames by a metal can cap that is raised enough to allow burning. The purpose of the cap is to retain heat and provide protection from open flames. Environmental heat is produced by heated metal walls.

The video demonstrates how to make emergency heating on a budget.

How to heed a greenhouse in early spring

Heating is not required for the growth of seedlings or early summer products. It only takes a handful of manure to make the greenhouse’s beds in order to accomplish this. The soil’s fertile layer must be removed; otherwise, trenches will result instead of beds. For future boards or other improvised materials, it’s best to make sides. Place a thick layer of fermenting manure combined with peat or straw on the bottom. Cover with a layer of rich soil. Below, the overdue manure will release moisture and heat. Warm, high ridges will provide comfort for plants.

When it is still cold outside, then on the greenhouse you can pull the film with the second layer. Air cork is formed between the main layer and additional, which will also maintain heat. The greenhouse must be placed so that it is in the sun as long as possible. The sun"s rays will penetrate through the film or cellular polycarbonate and heat the surface of the earth in the greenhouse. Thus, natural heat will condensate in it. That is how it is possible to “naturally” heal the greenhouse, but you don’t have to make the roof too high, then it will warm up more. Experience showed that the highest efficiency regarding the preservation of heat in greenhouses with arched structure.

Yet there are drawbacks. It will have to purchase manure if you don’t have any on hand, and that can get costly quickly. It also needs to be stored in the autumn. And create furrows each spring once more. This is a very time-consuming procedure. Building a heated greenhouse by hand is a difficult task. Moreover, this "heating" won’t be sufficient in the winter.

Variations of artificial heating of the greenhouse

First and foremost, natural heating from sunlight is what heats the greenhouse. However, this energy will not be enough to provide uniform heating, particularly in the areas surrounding the greenhouse where temperatures can drop below zero. Keeping it between 7 and 9 °C is the best course of action.

Which choice is appropriate for greenhouses in the winter?

1. Convection heating, that is, due to blown warm air. As a heat source, wire or ceramic heaters are used. The whole system works from electric current. Pluses – cheapness, the ability to manually direct the air flow. Disadvantages – in the case of turning off the electricity, the temperature drops very quickly, since the soil does not warm up.
2. Cable heating. It is a variation when a greenhouse heated to 15-20 ° C is heated in winter. The method is similar to the system of heating the flooring in residential buildings. Pluses – cheapness, effectiveness, disadvantages are again related to electricity.
3. Infrared heating of the greenhouse. Special infrared heaters are used that do not increase the ambient temperature, but hold it at a high level near the soil (the surface where the rays fall). This method is not suitable if the greenhouse with heating is operated at an ambient temperature below -5 ° C.
4. Pipe heating. Analogue of steam heating in residential buildings. The best option if the house is located very close to the greenhouse. The systems are combined using several pipes, and an ordinary pump is used to ensure water circulation.
5. Stove heating. To obtain energy, either firewood, or gas, or special oil boilers are used. Such heating for greenhouses of roads in operation, but will be optimal in emergency cases, when, for example, electricity is disconnected.

Popular heating methods without open fire

There are limitations to using an open fire because it must be used responsibly and fire safety regulations must be followed. As a result, different techniques are frequently employed to dissipate heat within the greenhouse.

The use of electrical appliances

The most costly method of heating the greenhouse in the winter is by using electricity. It is the easiest, though, as all that is required for the installation of this type of heating is the provision of electrical wiring and device installation. An individual can be relieved of the responsibility of continuously managing the microclimate through the implementation of basic automation systems.

The thermostat-based connection diagram for multiple heaters is fairly straightforward. You need to make arrangements for the connection of additional power sources because the power outage might be the only issue.

The following tools can be used to heat the greenhouse electrically:

• Heater. The simplest and cheapest device that can be done independently.
• Convector. The presence of a fan allows, in addition to heating the air, to carry out its uniform distribution over the greenhouse.
• Heat pump. A powerful air heating device in a large volume greenhouse, which is often used to distribute heat in conjunction with the air duct system.
• Infrared lamps. The specifics of the operation of such devices lies in the heating of the surface, which the radiation falls. Thus, you can align the vertical gradient of the temperature in the room without the use of air circulation.
• Heating cable. It is used to heat local areas in a greenhouse.

Because electrical heating is straightforward and safe, it makes sense to use it in smaller spaces. It is best to use alternative techniques in large, industrial greenhouses.

Soil heating is an ideal application for heating cable. Because of its low maximum temperature, there is no need to be concerned about the soil burning and losing its natural properties.

Heat release by a biochemical way

Adding an unexpired organic fertilizer to the soil, such as animal dung or bird droppings, is an intriguing heating technique. A significant amount of energy is released as a result of a biochemical reaction, raising the temperature of the air indoors and in the fertile layer.

Methane, carbon dioxide, and a trace amount of hydrogen and hydrogen sulfide are released when the manure decomposes. Additionally, manure has a distinct odor. All of this places limitations on how it can be used in relation to the requirement for room ventilation.

Intense air exchange is not desired in the winter, nor is it desirable during extended cooling periods in the spring and fall. In this instance, a notably higher energy consumption may be necessary to restore thermal balance following ventilation, which was attributed to the manure’s decomposition process.

When ventilation occurs at daily temperatures that are positive in late spring, the use of such a "biological" method of heating land and air is justified.

Deville heating systems device

Gas heating

Electric heating

Other benefits of heating the greenhouse in this way include:

1. An increase in the varieties of cultivated plants up to a subtropical flora, which is very demanding on the heat regime;
2. Independence of the created microclimate from weather conditions;
3. Acceleration of growth, increased productivity, extension of the fruiting time of plant crops.

The installation procedure for this type of heating is very straightforward:

• The device of the cable heating system should begin with the installation of the heat -insulating substrate, moisture -resistant heater – polystyrene, for example, can serve as material for it.
• After that, the thermal insulation must be covered with plastic film and pour a layer of sand with a thickness of at least 100 mm on top.
• On a sandy pillow should be laid in the form of a coil with a step of 150 mm a heating cable and filled with a layer of sand, but a smaller thickness – 50 mm.
• To protect against external damage, the installed heating system must be covered on top with a net with a net, and then fill everything with a layer of fertile soil. Its thickness should be 35-40 cm.

Water heating

The task ought to be completed gradually:

• Before making the heat of the greenhouse, in its corner you should mount the boiler V = 50 liters with a power of 2 kW. When heated, the water will rise along the riser to the expansion tank, and then be supplied to the system. A metal boiler is made from a segment of a wide pipe, to which you need to weld the bottom equipped with a flange.
• The heels should be connected by an electric cable to the fork and perform reliable insulation.
• Between the flange and the body of the boiler you need to insert a rubber gasket.
• It is necessary to make a thirty -line expansion tank from a metal pipe. From the side of its bottom and ends, you need to weld the couplings designed to connect with the heating system and the riser.
• In the expansion tank, cut a hole for pouring water. Its level will need to be controlled constantly.
• On both sides of each pipe, you need to cut threads, and then connect all products into the registers. Pipes should be placed along the edges of the greenhouse with a slope down.
• The boiler housing should be grounded with a copper cable consisting of three veins without insulation. The wire should withstand voltage over 500V. Two cable veins must be fixed on the phase contacts of the heater, the third – on the body of the heating boiler.

Solid fuel heating

The installation procedure can be broken down into the following steps:

1. In the greenhouse vestibule, you need to make a brick furnace with a firebox.
2. The chimney should be laid along the length of the greenhouse. On the other side of the construction, it must be removed out so that the carbon monoxide is assigned, and the heat remains inside.
3. The distance between the end of the building and the firebox is accepted at least 25 cm, and from the rack to the top of the horizontal chimney – a little more than 15 cm.

Infrared heating

Electric heating

• Radiator

Since the heating of most houses occurs thanks to electricity, this method can be effective for the greenhouse, especially small and well -isolated, where maintaining positive temperatures is needed only from time to time. At the same time, the heating of the greenhouse in winter will not require the installation of conventional “air vent” and may limit himself to the acquisition of a relatively inexpensive greenhouse fan that can quickly respond to sharp temperature fluctuations and prevent moisture on the greenhouse walls. Modern heating systems allow you to supply heat with different doses. The minimum mode is originally set, and only if the heat is not enough, other valves open. Ribbated radiators with thermostats of different lengths and power are also strong and reliable, which distribute heat along the entire length of the case.

When using electrical appliances to heat larger buildings, it’s critical to guarantee even distribution of heat.

Another popular technique is cable heating, sometimes known as the "warm floor" system. It is preferred by many gardeners because it is inexpensive to install, works well, is easy to operate, regulates temperature automatically, and distributes heat evenly. In order to install it, you will need to dig up some soil, cover the sand layer where the cable is installed, and apply a layer of heat-insulating material that is resistant to both mechanical loads and moisture to stop heat from penetrating.

The earth is where the heating wire is placed.

Heating in polycarbonate greenhouses is frequently done with infrared heaters. An ordinary electric lamp screwed into a ceramic base can serve as a heating element. A few benefits include a threefold increase in seed germination, the ability to create different temperature zones inside the same greenhouse, and direct soil or seedling heating. Moreover, they are simple to install and transport, save between 40 and 60 percent on energy carriers, and have a lengthy service life (at least 10 years).

Greenhouse infrared heaters

Water heating is one of the most economically advantageous, if outmoded, ways to arrange electric heating of the greenhouse in the winter. Water is heated in a boiler and then pushed into pipes—which can be installed between plants or along the structure’s walls—by a circulation pump.

System of water heating in a greenhouse

Heating natural gas

Although using this energy carrier is very convenient, it should be done by a specialized company as it cannot be done by you. This is one of the greatest options for greenhouses if you ignore the current situation and even the cost of gas for the populations of the various CIS countries. You can set up an air, water, and infrared method for heating the winter greenhouse with gas heating.

The installation of infrared gas heaters on the room’s roof is standard procedure. The units are stirred in a row along the building’s axis if the structure is narrow.

It is crucial that every bed fits within the apparatus’s width, as specified in the operating instructions. In cases where this isn’t feasible, gas devices are arranged in two or three rows.

The benefit of using gas infrared heating in the winter is that the air inside the greenhouse is heated directly, first the soil. The requirement for a ventilation device to remove combustion products is a drawback.

An additional choice is to combine a greenhouse’s water heating system with a gas boiler. It is important to realize that the primary purpose of greenhouse structures is to heat the plants, not to warm people. This will be accomplished by wiring the entire region using smooth pipes that have a diameter of no more than 40 mm. Additionally, they are laid out along each bed at a height of 20 to 30 centimeters above the floor. Using the following kinds of wiring is permitted:

• feeding the highway along one wall, the opposite – near the other. They are interconnected by transverse pipes that go between the beds;
• feed and return are laid along one wall. Each heating pipe goes along one bed, and returns past the other;
• The pipe is laid by the snake over the entire area of the greenhouse, forming a single heating contour.

Advice: You must install the cutting cranes on each branch so that, once the plants are gone, you can turn off the outline.

Do -it -yourself heating system

Heating can be done in a variety of ways without hiring experts in the field. Utilizing readily available materials, one can construct a water or air system, furnace, or both.

Underground pipes

The heating schemes of the greenhouse

Examine various plans if you are still unsure about how to install heating in winter greenhouses. They might assist you in selecting the best course of action.

The soil scheme of the stove heating system’s water system for heating the air diagram. The plan for using fuel gases to heat solar-powered infrared lamps

Equipment of solar batteries

Anyone will be able to construct a basic solar heating system with their own hands:

1. EXCEDE A shallow trench and cover its bottom with any heat insulator.
2. Close the thermal insulation coating with plastic wrap.
3. Put the wet sand with coarse -grained fractions on top.
4. Pour everything with a layer of earth.

Solar-powered energy source

Because of the accumulated solar energy, this kind of basic structure will aid in temperature maintenance.

It is preferable to let experts handle the installation of complete solar battery systems. Different power batteries are available for purchase.

It is crucial to accurately determine their quantity, considering the greenhouse’s dimensions and elevation.

Arrangement of furnace heating

Installing the heating system is simple, so you can handle its components on your own.

1. In the greenhouse vestibule, make the foundation and lay out the brick furnace furnace.
2. Make a chimney along the entire length of the greenhouse.
3. Bring the chimney from the other side of the greenhouse.

Contemporary brick fireplace

1. Find a metal barrel of a suitable size. Color it from the inside (it is advisable to apply two layers of paint).
2. Make a few internal holes. In the future, you will connect a crane, chimney, expansion tank to them.
3. Using metal sheets and welding apparatus, make furnace parts and install them in a barrel.
4. Attach part of the pipe to one of the openings to remove the chimney in a barrel. The total length of the chimneine pipe should be about five meters.
5. Carry out the installation of an expansion tank of the desired volume purchased in a store or welded independently.
6. Dilute the pipes throughout the area, spreading them on the ground at a distance of 1.2 meters.
7. Install a special pump that will provide water circulation.
8. Check the clutch places for tightness, turning on the fluid supply.

Heating via a stove and chimney

Gas cylinder greenhouse boiler

You can use an empty gas cylinder to make it by hand for a greenhouse. You must carefully prepare it beforehand in order to accomplish this. Take off the valve, give the container a quick water rinse, and let it air out for a few weeks. Burn the paint in the stake before you begin.

A typical gas cylinder can be used to construct a boiler for a greenhouse.

You will need the following materials to construct a DIY gas cylinder boiler for a greenhouse:

• metal grate;
• Handles for doors;
• coil;
• gate;
• loops.

Half of a gas cylinder

After getting the supplies ready, take these steps one by one:

1. Having made sure of the void of the cylinder, saw it in half with a grinder for the manufacture of the case and ash box.
2. Measure, cut and grab the grill with welding. It should fit inside the cylinder, dividing it into a combustion chamber and ash.
3. Make measurements on a piece of steel, cut the front wall. Cut the third part of the resulting circle and make a ash -free door from it, weld the handle to it.
4. From the second half of the cylinder, make a semicircle that will serve as the bottom of the drawer.
5. Stepping a little from the hole for the box, make a large opening in the shape of a rectangle. From the cut part, build the door, weld the loops, gate, handle.
6. Having made a marking and drilling two holes on top of the boiler, weld the coil and remove the ends of the pipe.
7. Make a hole behind the structure closer to its upper part. Attach the pipe to which the chimney will connect. Boil the chimneine pipe so that it can pass through the entire room under a small slope. Bring the chimney from the back of the room. Connect it with the boiler pipe.
8. At the outer ends of the coil, attach metal pipes. Connect the pump, expansion tank.
9. Build the foundation of concrete or brick, install the boiler on it.
10. Equip the structure with stable legs, making them from reinforcement.

Grates are installed inside the completed boiler cylinder.

Grounding systems of greenhouses in different climate

When constructing a DIY heated polycarbonate greenhouse, you need to consider the local characteristics. For instance, building an expensive water heating system with a boiler in the south is pointless because it will not be used frequently. On the other hand, additional heating will be necessary in the northern regions.

Winter greenhouses in heat climate

The polycarbonate structure won’t require insulation if the local climate is mild and warm and the thermometer column seldom falls below zero during the winter. You can insulate the greenhouse’s northern section if there are strong winds in the area. In a structure like this, solar energy serves as the primary source of heat.

Increases as a result of the greenhouse’s daytime heating. Plants will start to freeze because the air will not have enough time to replenish the heat that the soil has lost during the day. When there is just one frost, warm beds with biopodgery are created or electric convectors are utilized. The decomposing manure causes the beds to heat up biologically, generating a difference in temperature of roughly 70 degrees.

This will be sufficient for January’s first landings to start producing on greenhouse beds. The plants will be warm, and no elaborate setups or extra expenses are needed.

The only thing that matters is making a warm bed properly:

• The first layer is laid by mulch or branches;
• The next is the layer of manure with peat or sawdust;
• The last layer is 15 cm of ordinary fertile soil.

Captured by Videoblocks.Com

The warm bed has low heating costs and can efficiently heat the soil for five to seven years if it is constructed properly.

Winter greenhouses in temperate climate

The warmth of the greenhouse rooms cannot be achieved by the sun alone in regions with mild frosts and moderate winter energy levels. Subsequently, the blind area is insulated and heating devices are installed in greenhouses. If the stove is mounted, it will be inexpensive:

1. Its installation is carried out in the northern part of the greenhouse or in the extension.
2. If the greenhouse is large, then air ducts are laid along the beds. A small structure will be heated due to natural convection.
3. They are heated by firewood or other fuel in the evening, when the temperature on the street decreases.

Warm beds can be created using biofuel (compost, manure) for soil heating. Simultaneously, the most important thing is that plant roots will stay warm, and most crops’ upper parts will typically transfer temperature changes. If a natural temperature drop is the peak, then more heating elements are added when the cooling is intense. Convectors and heat-tents are used to warm the air. You can heat the soil.

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Winter greenhouses in cold climate

Since the sun does not influence the greenhouse’s temperature regime during the very short winter days in the north, the space must be continuously heated. Here, low-cost solutions are inappropriate; instead, you must install actual heating systems. The water system is the type of greenhouse heating that will be most effective at the job. There is a contour placed all the way around the room.

Radiators, or registers, and the pipes that connect them are included in the contour. A thermal curtain consequently develops along the walls. It will protect the plants from the outside cold while also having no direct effect on them. In the northern regions, winterized greenhouse beds are outfitted with artificial heating devices, such as electric cable or heating pipes placed at the bottom and soil covered on top.

Picrevise.Net/Image

Real and unrealistic methods of heating greenhouses

We would like to know how to create inexpensive, handcrafted heating greenhouses using readily available materials.

As a result, we’ll focus on practical, reasonably priced, and accessible options that are available on an industrial basis.

1. Electric heating – by. This method is available, and even works very productively, but expensive potatoes, as well as tomatoes with cucumbers, we can buy it all year on the market – it will be cheaper.
2. Gas – also not our option. Loaning the gas pipeline to the place or storage of cylinders on the site is expensive, inconvenient, even dangerous. In addition, you cannot work with gas without specialists, you will simply be fined. It turns out that this is no longer a heating of greenhouses with your own hands, but with the involvement of professionals, where your destiny is “bring-give”.
3. Boil greenhouse furnace – this is normal stove heating with a horizontal location of the chimney. Very practical, accessible to all Self -Delkin, inexpensive. But "angrily", albeit cheap. It is necessary to lay out the stove inside the greenhouse itself or in the vestibule, lay the horizontal pipes of the chimney under the racks, ensure normal output and thrust. Minus – a large length of a home -made chimney, mandatory fistulas in the connections and the penetration of a small amount of carbon monoxide inside the greenhouses.
4. Water heating in a greenhouse with your own hands is a process of serious improvement of the stove version. Takes more time and costs a little more, but has a reasonable argument: high efficiency, safety and small fuel costs. Especially if you put a pellet or pyroly stove.

The simplest, but least trustworthy, choice

Why is the last option important to consider, particularly when using pyrolysis stoves? As was already mentioned, the furnace has a high efficiency, but the biggest benefit—and one that is especially important for contemporary summer residents—is the interval between fireplaces. Or not, it makes no difference what kind of fuel you use.

A boiler can be used as a heating device when fuelled by liquid. It will also provide benefits to your greenhouse’s autonomous heating system, including automation of the combustion process and a sizable fuel-laying (refueling) interval.

Remember the "grandfather" techniques for warming the soil and make use of natural products as well. For instance, heating systems are not necessary when using horse manure to warm the soil.

Horse manure will heat the soil in your greenhouse to +60 degrees for a week after being added to a fertile layer. It will then stay at this temperature for at least three more months, and generally up to 150 days! Buying horse manure from a neighbor in the country is definitely preferable to setting up a soil heating system beneath shelves. There is adequate air heating in this instance.

We do it with our own hands

A winter greenhouse needs to be efficiently, dependably, and affordably heated. If you install it yourself, you will need to consider the climate, the benefits and drawbacks of different heating options, and your ability to independently make the right installation and configuration. A polycarbonate greenhouse’s heating system will vary depending on the circumstances.

When biological heating is used, plants receive a top dressing of vitamins in addition to being warmed by the root system, and outgoing evaporation helps to retain soil moisture. This kind of heating is very simple to set up in a greenhouse by hand and doesn’t need to be constantly regulated. Even in minor winter frosts, the heat released in this instance won’t be sufficient.

The air in the greenhouse loses heat quickly, which is crucial because of the harsh wintertime cooling. Thermal controllers are an option for the apparatus, which will automatically maintain the necessary temperature.

However, using gas in a polycarbonate greenhouse can be very financially advantageous.

On the other hand, rapid heating has a drawback in that when the heat is cut off, the greenhouse rapidly cools as well. Plant death will thus result from power outages or gas shortages during the winter. Furthermore, the soil does not warm up and the air is dried out. If installing the electric guns on the greenhouse and connecting them with your own hands work without a hitch, you will need to hire a professional to create a gas system, particularly when connecting main gas rather than a balloon.

It’s simple to set up the greenhouse’s convection heating system by hand. Furthermore, electronic equipment control enables automatic and autonomous functioning. Its drawbacks are the same as those of the air system: when power is cut off, there is rapid cooling and no soil warming, which can be hazardous during winter frosts.

The greenhouse’s soil and air are both warmed by the water heating system. Furthermore, hot water left in the boiler after it has been turned off will heat the surrounding area for an extended period of time. That is, the winter cold won’t immediately affect the plants in the greenhouse in the event of an emergency shutdown. However, the extreme dryness of the soil brought on by this heating calls for regular watering. Furthermore, create and calculate such a system yourself without hiring a professional to install it; this is not something that everyone can do.

In a winter greenhouse equipped with a cable heating system, you can cultivate a plant-friendly microclimate because the soil and air are heated simultaneously. Additionally, it is simple to program it to an efficient heating level for both winter and occasional spring warming thanks to the use of specialized sensors and controllers.

Nonetheless, for a safe and correct installation, this type of heating will need some math skills and electrical knowledge. Winter frosts can also destroy every stand when the electricity is turned off, but the electric generator will be the link in this scenario.

The winter greenhouse offers the most ideal growing conditions for plants thanks to its infrared heating system. You can integrate the greenhouse with the Smart House system by using electronic control, which enables you to adjust the microclimate in various greenhouse sections based on external factors. Such a system is simple to construct in the greenhouse by hand, and you can also guarantee that it will continue to function even if the primary power source is disconnected.

Furnace heating of the greenhouse

Heating system of the greenhouse furnace

Traditional stove heating is distinguished by its high efficiency and comparatively straightforward design. For instance, building a stove with a horizontal chimney doesn’t require any additional financial outlays.

First action. Place the furnace inside your greenhouse’s vestibule. Bricklaying is done the old-fashioned way.

The subsequent phase. Place the chimney beneath the beds or all the way along the greenhouse. It can be placed beneath shelves as well.

The third action. Insert the chimney through the greenhouse’s wall. Consider how the pipe should be positioned to efficiently collect the byproducts of fuel combustion while simultaneously crossing over the areas that require heating.

Heating system located within a greenhouse

Orient the furnace so that its firebox is at least 25 to 30 centimeters away from the greenhouse’s end wall.

A metal barrel can also be used to create a stove.

The greenhouse’s bourgeois operational principle

First action. Get a metal barrel ready that holds roughly 250 liters. Paint the interior walls of the container twice to prevent rusting of the material.

The subsequent phase. Drill holes for the expansion tank (above) and the stove, chimney, and drain crane (below).

The third action. Bring the stove to a boil (often by building a rectangular structure out of sheet steel to fit the barrel’s dimensions) and place it inside the container.

The fourth action. Extract the chimney from the barrel. The pipe’s "street" section needs to be at least 500 centimeters long.

The fifth action. Attach the extensor tank to the barrel’s top. Either purchase a completed container or make it yourself out of leafy metal. A 20–25 liter tank will be more than sufficient.

Step six. Cook using heating units of appropriate length that are connected to profile pipes measuring 400x200x15 (pay attention to the greenhouse’s measurements). The pipes themselves ought to be positioned in 120–150 cm increments on the ground.

How to manually create a greenhouse’s heating system

Step seven. Purchase and set up a hydraulic pump. You will need a pump because water will be used to heat the system.

Any firewood will work in the stove’s furnace. Installing an electronic temperature sensor in the greenhouse will maximize efficiency. For added convenience, consider placing a digital control board in a house or another suitable location.

With a heated greenhouse, peaceful and full even in the winter

Winter greenhouse requirements

There are definitely benefits to winter greenhouse structures. These structures let you vary their diet nearly year-round with fresh veggies and berries, whether you build them yourself or buy a finished factory version. However, when selecting such a design, one should be guided by the conformance of the product’s fundamental requirements in order to avoid being disappointed with the acquisition and preserve the crop:

• the presence of a high -quality coating based on polycarbonate, the thickness of which should not be less than four millimeters, and the minimum density indicators should be about 860 g per meter or more;
• a balanced height of a greenhouse structure, which will not allow heat to accumulate under the ridge (the best option is the height of the greenhouse frame within two meters);

• The material of the frame is very important and the construction of a greenhouse based on a profile, which is represented by welded square pipes with a cross section of more than three centimeters and the thickness of the metal used at the level of one and a half millimeters, is the best option;
• the presence of expanded clay thermal insulation around the entire perimeter of the greenhouse structure, which will protect the root system of cultivated plants from freezing into severe frosts;
• the presence of longitudinal frame jumpers with a distance of eighty centimeters, as well as the presence of a transverse section, which can insure the ribs of sheet polycarbonate at strong snow loads.

A top-notch winter greenhouse design also needs extra equipment installed in order for it to operate to its full potential, in addition to design elements. The heating provided by greenhouse and greenhouse structures, which you are able to operate with your hands, is especially significant.

However, without competent and high-quality building insulation, even the most advanced winter greenhouse heating system will not be able to survive winter frosts.

Option 5 Water heating

In terms of material profits, one of the most successful uses is water heating for greenhouses. Additionally, you can create a water heater by hand.

Method #1 – thermos from the old fire extinguisher

That means you’ll need the body of an old fire extinguisher that’s already superfluous, with the top cut off. Order of work:

• Step 1. At the bottom of the case, you need to mount the heat -electron heater with a power of 1 kW, which can be taken from an electric samovar.
• Step 2. So that you can pour water into an electric heater, a removable cover is made on top.
• Step 3. Two water pipes that are associated with the radiator must be attached to the housing. Fix pipes with rubber sealing gaskets and nuts.

In order for the heater to be automated, it is better to use such a circuit-with an alternating current relay, like MKU-48 with a voltage of 220 V. As soon as the temperature sensor works, it will close the contacts K1. The heater will begin to heat water, and it will raise the temperature in the greenhouse. Only water will reach a given level – the temperature sensor will immediately work and the power circuit of the relay K1 will break, and the water heater itself will turn off. If the MKU-48 relay cannot be found, you can use the second scheme where the relay has contacts that do not pass the current of less than 5A.

Method #2 – Ten + Old pipes

Here, a few aged pipes, a heating element, and an electric welding machine will be employed. All will be produced in a timely and dependable manner.

Thus, you must install a boiler with a capacity of roughly 50 liters and an electric heater with a 2 kW output in the greenhouse’s handy corner. Water for heating will rise into the riser’s expansion tank and be supplied to the entire perimeter’s heating system. The system itself ought to have a slight pipe bias toward the lower end.

Step 1: A section of large-diameter pipe that has had the bottom with a flange welded on will be used to construct the boiler.

Step 2: The heater needs to be dependable in its isolation and connected to an electric shutter using a fork.

Step 3: Use a rubber gasket to ensure that every point where the flange and body connect is tightly sealed.

Step 4: Pipe scraps are used to create a 30-liter expansion tank. Couplings are welded to connect the system and the boiler riser from both ends and from below.

Step 5: Because the water level needs to be continuously monitored, a lid is cut into the tank to allow for topping off.

Step 6: The pipeline is constructed from metal pipes, the ends of which need to be threaded beforehand for a convenient connection.

Step 7: A flexible, three-core copper wire that is intended for voltages up to 500 V without isolation must now be grounded to the boiler’s body. The heater’s phases must be connected to both veins, and the boiler body to the third vein. In addition, during the colder months, heat-reflecting materials such as foil can be used to create customized screens.

The most important thing is to strictly adhere to the instructions and observe all safety precautions when installing a heating system in a greenhouse.

Method #3 – installation of a solid fuel boiler

The boiler itself may be located in a different room or in the greenhouse itself. The benefit of the second option is that fuel or firewood can be added to the boiler without having to enter the greenhouse, saving valuable space that would otherwise be taken up by the fuel itself. The boiler also generates some heat energy, which is a drawback because it doesn’t create another greenhouse.

Fill a heat generator with fuel twice a day, total. Furthermore, since this type of boiler is completely fireproof, it can be left unattended overnight without risk. Additionally, there is not much fuel used.

Preparation for construction

Many prefabricated greenhouse construction solutions are available online, just need to be customized to meet your needs. You can also design your own drawing according to your preferences and requirements.

Specialized programs are in place to produce illustrations. They enable you to view the future structure’s completed layout.

In any case, there are a few things you should consider when building a greenhouse by hand. You must first decide where to continue construction.

Three key considerations must guide your decision:

First things first, you have to decide where to build more. Three key considerations must guide your decision:

1. Lighting. The greenhouse should receive the maximum possible amount of solar energy.

The greenhouse can be positioned lengthwise, from west to east, to receive the most sunlight possible.

Conditions of wind. In addition to increasing the chance of a structure collapsing, strong and erratic winds can also result in significant heat losses. Wind protection is therefore essential. For instance, you could erect a greenhouse against the house’s wall or plant low-growing perennials five to ten meters away.

Easy access. A convenient and sufficiently wide access point to the case will make structural maintenance much easier.

Next, you must decide on the future roof structure’s shape. It is typically an arcous or gable roof.

The roof’s design should mitigate snow accumulation during the winter months. The easiest roof to install is a gable roof.

It’s also crucial. The composition of the frame. Metal is the most resilient and long-lasting material.

But it’s crucial to keep in mind that welding is necessary to create a metal frame in order to construct a structure. However, the tree is very inexpensive and doesn’t require any specialized equipment or knowledge.

Additionally, it can endure for many years if you apply multiple coats of paint. High strength and stability are achievable with the reinforced structure.

Selecting polycarbonate is another important point to make. What is the winter greenhouse’s polycarbonate thickness? If an average greenhouse can get by with a fairly thin sheet (6–8 mm), winter greenhouses require panels that are at least 8–10 mm thick. If not, there’s a chance that the panels won’t support the weight and the building’s internal heat storage won’t be adequate.

Utilizing electrical appliances for heating, such as infrared heaters, is growing in popularity. How should an infrared heater be set up to heat a polycarbonate greenhouse?

Installing such a system is very easy; all you have to do is connect the electrical appliance and install a power grid to the greenhouse. Electricity and the heater itself will require financial outlays.

Heaters using infrared They are mounted on the ceiling of a polycarbonate greenhouse and can reach temperatures of up to 21 degrees Celsius for the interior air and 28 degrees Celsius for the soil.

The conventional and outdated methods are his substitutes. The furnace heating method.

It is simpler to install and far less expensive. Its drawback is that because of the walls’ intense heating, plants cannot be grown close to it.

Ultimately, the strength of the entire structure depends on the foundation, which needs to be made capital and stable. Its creation can be completed by anyone and won’t require any complicated steps.

Work on construction projects needs to be done in dry, warm weather.

The best do-it-yourself greenhouse heating techniques for the winter will be covered in this article. For your plants to be healthy and grow, especially in the winter, you must keep your greenhouse warm. We’ll go over several methods you can use to build a functional heating system with easily accessible components and easy-to-follow instructions that anybody can follow. There is something here for everyone, regardless of your budget or preference for environmentally friendly options. To help you keep a flourishing greenhouse throughout the winter months, we’ll cover everything from insulating methods to alternate heating sources.

Electric heating

Out of all the options for winter greenhouse heating, gardeners frequently choose electric systems because they are relatively simple to use. Furthermore, summertime residents typically select one of the following choices within the parameters of this heating method: Resolutions to this problem:

• electrical cable;
• heating mats;
• convection installations;
• thermal pumps;
• infrared heaters.

Convector

In the greenhouse of a favorable microclimate, the convector frequently uses the convector to maintain the microclimate. We are referring to the apparatus that has spirals inside of it that heat air. While moving, the air disperses equally throughout the greenhouse, with the warmest air flowing toward the top. Convection should be used in addition to the biological method since without it, the soil cannot warm up to its ideal temperature.

Electric cable and heating mats

The heating method, based on the use of special mats and electric cable, is interesting in that it allows maintaining the required temperature regime and at the same time, the device of such a system requires small financial costs. Among the advantages of this system, the main one should be called that mats or cable can be laid in those areas that, from the position of the owner, primarily need heating. Most often, summer residents choose the option with the placement of heating elements directly on the ground. But here you need to be careful, because if you do not choose the temperature incorrectly, this can lead to overheating of the root system of plants.

Thermal pumps

Thermal pumps, which are not yet widely used to heat greenhouses, are a reasonably effective solution to the heating problem. This makes sense considering how much it would cost to install and purchase new equipment. Consequently, this option will not be suitable if the owner is interested in a small greenhouse heating system because it will take a long time for the system to pay for itself.

Infrared heaters

This approach to greenhouse heating involves the use of infrared heaters. It is possible to arrange the system so that heat is only applied to the areas of the greenhouse that are actually needed for plants, with the appropriate design approach. You can maintain the ideal temperature in each zone, accounting for the unique characteristics of each plant, if you have already divided the greenhouse’s total area into zones.

Among the many benefits of heating the greenhouse for winter operation is the ability for the heating system to function in tandem with temperature sensors. Consequently, it suffices to set them up properly so that the greenhouse always maintains the air temperature required for plants to grow normally. There are a ton of options for additional equipment available on the market today that can help you solve the problem of creating a favorable climate inside a greenhouse.

For your plants to survive and thrive throughout the winter, you must make sure your greenhouse has enough heating. You can build a cost-effective DIY heating system that efficiently maintains ideal temperatures using the appropriate techniques.

Passive solar methods are among the best ways to heat a greenhouse on your own. You can capture and store heat during the day and release it gradually at night to maintain stable temperatures by placing your greenhouse to maximize exposure to sunlight and adding thermal mass materials like bricks or water barrels.

Putting insulation in place is also essential if you want to keep your greenhouse from losing heat. Heat-retaining materials such as bubble wrap or double-layered polyethylene film can be installed on the roof and walls, and gaps where heat could escape can be sealed with weatherstripping around vents and doors.

A wood-burning stove or propane heater can offer reliable warmth on the coldest winter days for individuals seeking more sophisticated heating options. Although they need to be closely watched to guarantee efficiency and safety, these heating sources can provide larger greenhouses with consistent heat output.

Whichever approach you decide on, the success of your DIY heating system depends on routine upkeep and observation. Maintaining the health and vigor of your plants during the winter months requires checking for leaks, making any necessary insulation adjustments, and keeping an eye on temperature swings.

In conclusion, DIY heating systems provide workable and affordable options for winter greenhouse heating with a little creativity and work. Through the use of insulation, passive solar design, and possibly additional heating sources, you can establish a cozy space that will allow your plants to thrive even in the winter.

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