DIY heating battery

Maintaining a warm and welcoming home becomes more important as winter draws near. Installing a DIY heating battery is one efficient way to improve the warmth of your house. This project can lower long-term energy costs in addition to improving the heating system’s efficiency in your house. Setting up your own heating battery can be a fun and fulfilling project, regardless of your experience level with tools or do-it-yourself projects at home.

Building a heat emitter system that you can incorporate into your current heating system is the idea behind a do-it-yourself heating battery. This addition makes sure that the colder areas of your house get an equal amount of warmth by helping to distribute heat more evenly throughout the space. You can complete this project over the course of a weekend with simple materials and an easy installation procedure, making it a useful and functional upgrade for your living area.

It’s important to comprehend the parts and the setup procedure before you begin. Along with gathering some supplies and tools, you might want to review some fundamental plumbing knowledge. Although specific knowledge is not needed for this project, having a good understanding of how your heating system is laid out will be very beneficial. This guide is designed to take you step-by-step through the process, making sure you have all the knowledge required to finish your DIY heating battery installation.

Starting this do-it-yourself project gives you the ability to increase the heating efficiency of your house and a feeling of achievement. It’s also a fantastic way to become acquainted with the inner workings of the heating system in your house. Now let’s get to work on this useful project that will reduce your heating costs and keep your house toasty.

Homemade batteries: technology for manufacturing heating radiators from pipes

Even with the vast array of radiators available for purchase, some people aspire to produce heating devices themselves. In small country homes, garages, and dachas, homemade heating radiators made of pipes are used. With careful finishing, you can create a stunning piece of design that can easily adorn even the most upscale home. What you need for work, how to prepare a premium tubular battery, and is it really worth the effort?

DIY batteries: True without embellishment

These days, radiators are sophisticated technological apparatuses that use convection and radiation to function simultaneously. When producing batteries, manufacturers consider a variety of factors and employ cutting-edge technologies that improve heating system efficiency and lower coolant temperature and volume. The factory gadget will, of course, always function better and be more compact and designed than the home assignment helper.

The most basic two-pipe homemade radiator

Making your own heating devices is advised only if you have access to pipes that are free or inexpensive, a welding machine, a metal cutting tool (a grinder), and equipment handling skills.

Crucial! Even the smallest error can result in catastrophic emergencies and leaks. Installing their own production equipment in apartments is not advised; larger spaces and outbuildings are better suited for them.

Types of homemade heating radiators

The simplest method to create a heating register at home is to use a device made of one or more pipes cooked in a single design. The device works on the same principle as cast-iron batteries: heat from the coolant circulates inside the metal to warm it, and the air is heated as a result.

Registers can be installed on the wall or the floor and are appropriate for use in single- and two-pipe systems. The most basic examples of this class of heating appliances are found in old houses’ bathrooms, where they serve as heater-laders.

There are two primary categories of homemade registers: serpentine and sectional. Sectional devices are composed of pipes with varying diameters arranged so that the components with the larger diameter are parallel to one another, have end plugs, and are connected by tubes with the smaller diameter.

The primary register types

Connecting nozzles should be positioned as close to the edges as feasible. Additional jumpers are used to strengthen the structure because they expand the heating area and improve the device’s heat transfer.

In this construction, the coolant always starts in a container above the others. From there, the water travels through the lower row of pipes, fills the entire length, and enters the subsequent component. Ensuring the strength of welds is crucial; they need to be able to withstand pressure of at least 13 atmospheres.

S-shaped coils are gathered from elements that have been sequentially welded. Since the heat transfer occurs across the entire pipe, this design is more efficient. Since the coil does not have any intermediate narrowing, the hydraulic resistance is always lower than that of the sectional register.

How to make a radiator from pipes with your own hands

You must be proficient with a welding machine and be able to "handle" a grinder in order to manufacture a radiator at home. Accurately calculating the required power is essential in order to determine the heat source’s size.

The working principle of a device that is homemade

Calculation of the power of the battery

The device’s surface area and the material’s thermal conductivity determine the radiator’s power for liquid heating. Power is calculated using specific formulas, but a non-specialist may find it difficult to work through complex equations. When planning to heat outbuildings, where precise measurements are not required, a cast-iron battery can be used as a starting point.

For instance, a single section of the cast-iron radiator has a volume of 1.45 liters and a power of 160 watts. A heater made of pipes must be used in place of the conventional cast-iron device from ten sections, and each pipe must hold 14.5 liters of liquid.

The standards state that in residential buildings, one kilowatt of heating power is needed for every square meter of space. When calculating the system in homes with inadequate thermal insulation, this value is raised.

Necessary materials

It is advisable to quickly gather all required supplies and equipment so as to avoid hastily searching for the misplaced small items. The following supplies are needed for a 14.5-liter DIY radiator:

• a pipe made of carbon steel about 2 meters long and with a diameter of 10-12 cm with a wall thickness of 3.5 mm;
• a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3.5 mm for end plugs;
• water pipe for access channels;
• two signs with a diameter of 2.5 cm;
• reinforcement to enhance stiffness;
• threaded connections for insertion into the system.

Although buying materials at the scrap metal intake is less expensive, it is preferable to choose new smooth steel pipes for permanent housing. Using a register pipe that is larger than 12 centimeters in diameter is illogical since it will increase coolant volume, boiler load, and ongoing heating expenses.

Manufacturing technology

Three identical parts, each measuring two meters, are cut out of a two-meter steel pipe so that the throughput tubes can be accessed. The holes ought to be positioned at 180 degrees angles to one another and five centimeters away from the ends.

The next step involves cutting round blanks to seal the ends of the steel sheets. The pipe holes’ diameter and the lids’ diameter should line up. The elements for the registers are closed by the plugs that are welded to the ends.

The coolant supply pipes are welded to the holes, where they receive a cone that facilitates the flow of hot water. Reinforcement connects the pipes, giving the structure strength. Extra insurance jumper in large registers. It is imperative that the spacing between the segments be 0.5 cm greater than the primary pipe’s diameter.

The strength of the homemade radiators made of pipes must be examined after the welding is finished. Prior to testing, the upper hole is pressurized with water until the entire device is filled, and the lower hole is sealed. The battery is inserted into the system if there are no leaks. The legs are welded or brackets are supplied for floor installation. Registers installed in natural circulation heating systems have a slight bias in the coolant’s direction of flow.

A bathroom radiator is constructed similarly, resembling a coil or ladder. It makes no sense to use large-diameter pipes for a heated towel rail; the more crossbars planned, the smaller the pipe girth should be. Using copper pipes in place of steel ones results in a robust and useful gadget.

A bathroom scope

We strongly advise against learning this complex subject on heating devices if you have never operated a welding machine. It is best to leave the welding of your homemade radiators to a professional, even if you truly want to install them yourself.

Video: DIY heating

Heating radiators – we make and install correctly

1 heating radiators

A radiator is a heating device made up of individual ring sections. Batteries contain internal channels that allow water, or coolant, to flow. Heat from such a system is transferred to the air.

Prior to updating heating radiators, you must first buy all required parts and familiarize yourself with the specifications and configuration of the product. Employ metal pipes with a minimum diameter frequently. You can search for scrap metal to save them.

Heat transfer and power are heating radiators’ primary features. The total mass of the coolant and radiator, as well as the surface area occupied by the radiator element, must be considered when calculating the power of heating radiators.

Remoskop.Ru’smastershave created a unique calculator just for you. the number of radiator sections is calculated. Figuring out the appropriate number of sections is simple.

Steel and cast iron have nearly identical properties, however steel has a higher thermal energy conductivity than cast iron. Because they are comparatively small and resistant to corrosion, cast iron radiators are more frequently found in multi-story buildings. These batteries have a lifespan of at least 40 years, so they don’t need any special maintenance. High resistance to temperature changes is a characteristic of these radiators. One of the drawbacks is how difficult it is to install this kind of radiator. Periodic staining is also necessary for these batteries.

Aluminum radiators have many advantages: small weight and small sizes, beautiful design, high heat transfer, working pressure 12 atmospheres, large cross -collection area of inter -collection tubes. Warranty period of work is at least 5-7 years. The disadvantage is that in such a heating system you need to maintain a certain pH (optimally 7–8). Such batteries are distinguished by increased failure of the system, which requires regular air launching. If this is not done, then in the heating system during the reaction of water and oxide (covering the inside of the radiator), hydrogen is formed, due to which the pressure increases, which can lead to a break in the entire system.

Typically, sectional radiators have a set number of sections—between five and eleven. The number of sections determines their weight and dimensions. These batteries transfer heat very well. Another benefit is that replacing a broken section is a simple task.

Steel internal components are found in bimetallic radiators. Their tiny sizes separate them. These batteries transfer heat in a comparable manner to the aluminum heating system. The pricey nature is a drawback.

2 Making radiators with your own hands

You will need a steel pipe with walls that are 3.5 mm thick and a diameter of no more than 100 mm in order to construct a radiator by hand. The steel pipe will have a 95 mm diameter. The pipe’s section will make up 71 centimeters of its overall area. We divide the total volume by the pipe’s cross-sectional area to get the required length of pipe, which comes out to be 205 cm.

We can infer from the above that steel pipes can be used to create heating radiators. This pipe needs to have its ends welded. Its plane needs to have two drives that are in charge of supplying and releasing coolant into the heating system.

Supplies and equipment:

• Welding apparatus and consumables for it (electrodes),
• Bulgarian or grinding machine,
• Steel pipe 2 m long and 10 cm diameter,
• Steel pipe like VGP 30 cm long,
• steel sheet 600×100 mm, not less than 3 mm in thickness,
• plug and 2 special drives (used only on one side of the radiator pipe).

You can begin manufacturing a radiator by hand as soon as you’ve assembled all the necessary parts and equipment. Using a grinder, we first divided a big section of pipe into three equal pieces. Next, we drill two holes in each piece of pipe using a welding machine. They should have a 2.5 cm diameter. The holes must be positioned at a 180-degree angle and five centimeters apart from the pipe ends. Following completion of the task, we clean the pipe fragments from metal and any leftover residue from the welding equipment.

At this point in the process, we take a steel sheet and cut six blanks out of it, each with a diameter equal to the pipe’s thickness. Using our blanks, we brew the ends of the pipes. We divide a steel type VGP pipe into two equal pieces. After that, we pre-made holes in a larger diameter pipe and welded them to it.

We now take 10 cm long reinforced elements and weld them to thin pipes. Our design will become far more dependable as a result. You can then move on to welding the previously prepared drives. You must verify the tightness and strength of the entire structure once the preparatory work is complete. We shut off one of the pipe’s drive elements and pour water into the other to verify the tightness. As a result, you can see that there is a water leak at the joints. We fix this by pre-draining water and brewing these areas.

3 DIY radiators installation

General installation technology knowledge as well as a few tools—a roulette wheel, level, simple pencil, divorce key, set of keys, drill, and drill bit—are needed for this kind of work. If you have access to old radiators, you must first disassemble them. New heating radiators are installed where we need them and their fastening is marked. We now secure the heating radiators themselves using fasteners that have already been prepared. We fit plugs and taps to the heating system. The entire system is driven by the crane and thermal head. Finally, we connect the newly installed radiators straight to the main heating system.

In order to maximize heat transfer and ensure easy cleaning, the radiator must be positioned at least 7 centimeters above the floor. The thermal regime might be thrown off if the installation is higher than 15 cm. The battery’s thermal return will be reduced if it is placed near the wall. Closing the batteries with ornamental grilles is likewise not advised as the radiator power will drop dramatically.

4 replacement of radiators

It’s best to replace radiators yourself during the warmer months. The system isn’t involved at this time of year, so we can install and perform installation work without any issues. In severe circumstances, such as when the equipment is completely worn out and no longer functional, replacement is necessary. There are instances where the homeowner wishes to increase or decrease the battery’s sections.

Wall sections must be ready for installation in addition to radiators.

Before the radiator is installed, the wall must be thrown, aligned, and painted; otherwise, it won’t function.

Prior to installation, you should also consider the action plan, decide where to put the heating system, and figure out how big the space is. You will have the ability to oversee the entire work process thanks to this formality.

Don’t overlook the couplings that need to be installed at the new heating structure’s input and output. We set up thermal tacks by mounting a valve on them and putting in a special valve. The crane is on the reverse pipe, and the valve is at the opening to the heating pipe. Sealant must be applied to all joints, including threaded joints, in order to prevent leaks. The installation of the main pipe can then be started, which is the next step.

In order to maintain the pressure within the pipes, if the room has multiple radiators, the batteries are installed using the water level. The coolant can then be poured into an expansion tank.

Assembly of a home -made heating radiator

The modern market offers an enormous selection of heating radiators, allowing one to select the one that will most definitely provide the house or apartment the appropriate amount of heat. However, circumstances in life vary, and occasionally one must obtain a low-cost alternative. However, you can fix the issue by making a radiator with your own hands.

What is needed for manufacturing?

In this context, a steel pipe battery is the simplest option. You can purchase used pipes in this situation instead of needing to use brand-new ones. What matters most is that she is in a respectable state. What tools are required to put together a radiator by hand?

• pipe with a diameter of 100 mm;
• pipe with a diameter of 25 mm;
• sheet with a steel thickness of 3 mm;
• Two signs with a diameter of 25 mm.

A useful and affordable way to improve the warmth and comfort of your house, particularly in the winter, is to make your own DIY heating battery. You can put together a radiator that is specifically designed to fit your space and heating requirements by gathering supplies such as insulation, metal pipes, fittings, and soldering equipment. This project gives you the satisfaction of improving your living space with your own handiwork in addition to enabling a customized approach to heat distribution in your house. You can also have more control over the design and budget by doing it yourself rather than buying and installing pre-made units, which can be much more expensive.

Size calculation

Making your own pipe heating device is not too difficult. However, there is one crucial consideration here: determine the device’s size accurately. Because the indicator for heat transfer will specifically rely on them.

Necessary indicators

Calculation is challenging since it needs to take into account certain room-specific requirements. As an illustration, consider the amount of glazing, the quantity of entry doors, the types of windows that are installed, and whether or not the floor, walls, and ceiling have thermal insulation installed.

Since it is challenging to consider everything, there is a more straightforward option that considers just two indicators:

The rate of heat transfer at 10 m², or 1 kW of thermal energy, is used to select the heating radiator. Ceiling heights shouldn’t be higher than 2.8 meters.

In what way does this aid in the construction of a DIY heating device? You must do this by making a comparison with the MS-140-500 brand’s standard cast iron radiator. Its single section’s heat transfer is 160 watts, and its volume is 1.45 liters. What benefits does it offer?

If you use a cast-iron device, you can precisely calculate the number of sections that will be required. One battery will hold the total volume of coolant, which is determined by the number of sections. Additionally, you can roughly adjust a pipe radiator’s volume by knowing this number.

The issue is that cast iron has a thermal conductivity of 46 W/m*K*, while steel has 54 W/m*K*. In other words, the quality of heat return will not be impacted by a slight error in the shorter direction.

An example of calculation

We will assume, conditionally, that the above ratio can be achieved with an eight-section cast-iron heating device. Its volume is 11.6 liters (8 x 1.45).

You can now determine how long the 100 mm diameter pipe will be that we need to put together our homemade battery. Standard pipe cross-sectional area is 708.5 mm². After converting the liters to millimeters squared, we divide the volume by the section to find the length: 116000: 708.5 = 1640 mm. or 1.64 meters.

Heat transmission will not have a significant impact on a slight deviation in either direction. Consequently, you have a choice of 1.6 or 1.7 m.

The design of the device

Consider using a pipe of that length placed beneath the window as a radiator. However, it is preferable to split it in half and place them on top of one another. The same heat transfer characteristics cause the design to become compact.

The production of homemade radiators with a three-tier structure will be expensive and time-consuming. Consequently, the best option is to install pipes in two rows of this length.

Assembly process

First and foremost, preparation is required, i.e., purchasing all required supplies. We used a grinder to cut the pipe, which had a diameter of 100 mm, into two pieces that were 80 cm long.

Next, two 100 mm-long pieces of pipes with a diameter of 25 mm are cut, and four pancakes are cut out of the steel sheet beneath the pipes’ 100 mm outer diameter.

Next, two 25 mm diameter holes are cut in 100 mm pipes; the holes’ distance from the edges should be 50 mm from the sides that are diametrically opposed to each other.

You can then put the structure together. Pancakes carved out of leaf iron are first fused together. Next, precisely along the cut openings, two 100 mm pipes are connected to a 25 mm pipe.

Two are then welded: from above and below. The second piece of the 25 mm pipe is welded from the opposite side and will serve as the hardening element.

Checking the device

It’s time to build a homemade radiator. As you can see, making it is not too difficult. All that’s left to do is make sure the cooked joints are snug. To accomplish this, water is poured into the battery through the second drive while the first is plugged in.

It’s time to check the weld seams now. All of the work was completed to a high standard if there are no wet subsurfaces. Should the spots persist, you will need to use a marker to identify the subtexts’ scene, empty the water from the heating battery, and steam the seam once more.

Useful tips

Should the home’s heating system have been designed to utilize forced coolant movement—that is, to have a circulation pump installed—then the homemade gadget can be positioned either vertically or horizontally.

If the coolant in the heating system follows the laws of nature, then the battery can only be installed horizontally. Installing an air vent on it is not necessary (Maevsky crane).

If your welding machine skills are at the level of a novice, you will not be able to create a high-quality radiator out of pipes. The safety of the device’s operation and the functioning of the entire heating system depend on boiling the seams thoroughly.

The 100 mm pipe needs to be at least 3.5 mm thick.

Where metal pancakes were welded, two drives could be welded to the ends of the pipes. In this instance, the holes in the ends are made with a displacement rather than in the center, with the output beam (lower) being closer to the lower edge of the pipe and the input beam (upper) being closer to the upper edge. Prior to welding pancakes to pipes, it is preferable to drill holes in them.

The recoil area is not necessary to consider when calculating heat transfer. It is evident that the cast-iron radiator will have a larger indicator. Steel’s high thermal conductivity makes up for all of this.

Cleaning and presentability are necessary for welding seams. This is accomplished by using a hammer to smash the warden and sumps and a grinder to polish the seams on their whole surface.

Type of DIY Heating Battery	Steps to Build
Water-filled Radiator	1. Gather metal containers. 2. Connect them with pipes. 3. Attach to heating source.
Electric Thermal Oil Radiator	1. Use old radiator. 2. Fill with thermal oil. 3. Install heating element.

Making your own DIY heating battery can be a satisfying project that will increase the warmth of your house and give you a sense of achievement. It’s a fun way to learn more about how heating systems operate and gives you the chance to customize a solution to fit your home’s needs precisely. Whether you’re looking to replace an outdated unit or add to your current system, going the DIY route gives you the customization options that pre-built options might not.

But it’s crucial to approach these kinds of projects with caution and adherence to safety regulations. DIY does not imply scrimping on supplies or failing to follow installation instructions that guarantee reliable and secure operation. It’s important to do extensive research, maybe seek professional advice if you’re going somewhere you’ve never been before, and always put quality and safety above money. This guarantees your home’s safety and comfort in addition to the lifespan of your heating battery.

Lastly, although do-it-yourself projects like this can be economical, they also have a unique set of difficulties and possible unintended expenses. Make sure you’re ready for the possibility that, either during the installation process or afterwards, you’ll need to troubleshoot problems or replace parts. Perseverance and patience are essential. You can successfully create a heating solution that keeps you warm during the coldest months if you take the proper precautions, have the right tools, and have a thorough understanding of the heating needs of your home.

Video on the topic

Making heating battery from a steel profile pipe.

Homemade heating radiator from a profile pipe! With your own hands!

Beautiful, unusual battery for heating, with your own hands.

Homemade heating battery (register)

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