DIY Gollande heating oven: photos, drawings, guesses

Having an effective heating system is essential for keeping your house warm and comfortable during the winter. Even though there are many options available, do-it-yourself (DIY) solutions are becoming increasingly popular among homeowners as a way to save costs and add customization. One such do-it-yourself project that is becoming more and more popular is building a Gollande heating oven. This post will explain what a Gollande heating oven is, explain how it operates, and walk readers through the construction process using illustrations, sketches, and commentary.

The Gollande heating oven, sometimes referred to as a Russian stove or Dutch oven, is a conventional heating technique that has been utilized for centuries throughout various regions of the world. It’s a multipurpose and effective heating system that can be used for cooking, drying clothes, and even just providing warmth. In order to optimize heat retention and distribution, its design usually consists of a sizable masonry structure with a firebox, flue, and thermal mass components arranged in a deliberate manner.

The ability to customize DIY Gollande heating ovens is one of their most alluring features. In contrast to prefabricated heating options, customizing an oven to meet your unique requirements and tastes is possible when you build it yourself. You can choose materials, dimensions, and features that fit your space and style, whether you’re going for a more modern or rustic look.

It is crucial for anyone thinking about taking on this do-it-yourself project to have access to comprehensive plans, drawings, and instructions. Visual aids, like pictures and diagrams, can be very helpful in helping one understand the construction process and make sure that every step is completed correctly. Seeing actual completed Gollande heating ovens can also serve as a source of inspiration and direction for your own build.

Even though building a Gollande heating oven can be a fulfilling project, it’s crucial to approach it carefully and with efficiency and safety in mind. There are a number of considerations to make sure your DIY heating system works efficiently and safely for many years to come, from choosing the right materials to making sure ventilation and insulation are adequate.

This article explores the world of do-it-yourself heating options, concentrating on the Gollande heating oven. We offer a comprehensive guide for individuals who are interested in building their own heating system through a combination of colorful photos, intricate drawings, and well-informed speculation. We provide enthusiasts with all the necessary tools to take on this fulfilling project, from the nuances of design to useful installation tips. Our article tries to inspire and educate readers, enabling them to take on the challenge of building their own Gollande heating oven, regardless of whether you’re looking to improve the warmth of your home or just enjoy the satisfaction of hands-on construction.

CHLENECE BECHER: device, advantages and disadvantages

The Dutchwoman emerged in the fifteenth century, taking on her current form. And from that point on, she started her global procession. The traditional Dutch stove suggests that tiles are a must. It’s best to construct it without them only if you need to use the kitchen to prepare something or warm the cottage. In other instances, a Dutchman without tiles is an indication of total lack of style.

The Dutchflower oven is practical and useful.

Refractory brick is typically used in the Dutchman design, which has a strictly rectangular shape. The unusual thing is that the smoke gases enter it and stay there for a little while longer than normal, which produces more heat.

The chill oven is great, but why? Unquestionably, the benefits include:

• The reserve of functionality. Dutchwoman, originally designed only for heating, can be used for cooking, adding a plate to the design. The level of heating will be the same.
• Small dimensions. The furnace can be reduced to half a meter without a decrease in functionality.
• Small consumption of materials. A large Dutchwoman will need a brick 2 times less than on a small Russian stove, and it will warm it like a large Russian stove.
• Extensibility. The design of the furnace can be pulled up on several floors without losing efficiency.
• Good heat transfer. The heating area with Dutchwoman is 1.5 times larger than with the help of a Russian furnace.
• Fast heating. Dutchman not only quickly heats up, but also cools slowly.
• Lack of canonical structure. The dimensions and configuration of the furnace can be changed without reducing its effectiveness and strength. It is enough to observe certain proportions.

Two flaws stand out in particular:

• low efficiency;
• unusable for the firebox with strut rapidly burning fuel;
• Due to low heat capacity, it requires at least two protOles per day;
• When using cheap high -zero fuel, a large amount of soot is formed;
• With a “perenchka” he will release a carbon monoxide.

Features of operation

Due to the length of the gas transmitted during the reinforcement, a defining characteristic of Dutch furnaces is that the chimneys are removed completely through the chimney, with some of the gases—including toxic carbon monoxide—falling into the room. The temperature in the center of the front surface, or brow, must be watched during operation to prevent such occurrences; it should not rise above 60 degrees. The palm of your hand can withstand this temperature, but the brush’s back surface can no longer.

We lay out the Dutch stove

We previously stated in a different step-by-step instruction how to fold the most basic version of the stove with three vertical channels by hand. A variation of the heat-intensive Dutch with the horizontal channel system depicted in the drawing is presented in this publication.

Technical details of the heater:

• thermal power – 2.5 kW;
• The average heated area is 20 m²;
• dimensions in the plan – 51 x 89 cm;
• the planned height is 35 rows of brick or 2.45 m (if necessary);
• To save heat, an internal cavity is covered with sand is provided.

An ideal choice for heating a small private home, cottage, or bathhouse is the traditional Dutch stove. It is positioned in a heated room at a convenient location, 10 cm indent from the building’s foundation and away from the outer walls. The stove is installed in a living room or bedroom because a hob is not included in the design.

Harvesting building materials

An advantageous aspect of Dutch construction is the ability to use inferior materials, such as previously used bricks, which makes them unique. The solution will be prepared using regular ravine clay and meticulously sifted quartz sand.

Building supplies and stove casting in the following amounts are needed to assemble the model depicted in the drawing:

• Full -bodied ceramic brick of a standard size 25 x 12 x 6.5 cm – 400 pcs.;
• The main top -end door is 250 x 205 mm;
• The door of the ash chamber is 13 x 14 cm;
• An audit door for cleaning the size of 130 x 140 mm – 2 products;
• finished grille (grates) 25 x 25 cm;
• chimney valve 130 x 130 cm – 2 products;
• Baptist steel sheet 0.5 x 0.7 m;
• roofing material;
• felt or asbestos cardboard.

Suggestion made. For the masonry of the combustion chamber, you should use premium, well-burned red brick because it is constructed without the use of refractory stones.

We arrange a bottle foundation

Given that the structure weighs approximately 1.5 tons, a foundation that is independent of the existing building’s base must be set up. It is made from bottles, which are made of brick, broken stone, and large construction waste, in order to conserve materials. The top plane of the foundation is visible up to the room’s spotless floor.

The following detailed instructions are followed when laying the base:

1. Having retreated from the foundation of the building at least 100 mm, dig a pit 61 x 100 cm in size, which is 100 mm more than the oven dimensions. The depth depends on the location of the dense layer of soil and is at least half a meter.
2. Pour the pillow of sand and compact. Layer thickness – 10 cm.
3. Fill the pit with a boot, thoroughly compact and spill the cracks between the stones with a liquid cement mortar (budget option – water with water).
4. When the solution hardens, make waterproofing the underground part, covering the upper plane folded in half the roofing material, as the scheme prescribes.
5. Put the retaining walls from any brick to the level of clean floor, using cement-sand mortar. Lay the inner cavity with a missile stone, as described in previous points.

Apply cement mortar to the foundation’s surface, allow it to solidify, and then place a sheet of basalt cardboard or wet clay felt on top. The furnace’s base is prepared.

The laying order

Appropriate masonry solution creation is essential for construction dependability. After soaking in water for a full day, strain the clay through a fine sieve, combine it with sand in a 1:1 ratio, and then adjust the consistency. The solution is too fat, which means it could break, and the thin won’t get the necessary strength. Sand is added in the first instance, and clay in the second.

Note: Rolling the solution in the hand determines its density and fat content. "Sausage" shouldn’t break easily (indicating a high fat content) or stick to your hands (indicating a thin mixture).

After that, spread the stove for the Dutchwoman as directed:

1. Make the first row continuous, and starting from the second, form the ash and the inner cavity.
2. Having finished the 3rd row, fix the blower door in the masonry, pour the cavity on the 4th with sand. Blocked in the fifth row.
3. In the 6th row, install the grate, closing the edge of the front brick, where the furnace door is attached. Tiers 8-13 form the walls of the fuel.
4. The ranks from the 14th to the 16th gradually overlap the combustion chamber, leaving a chimney in the rear of.
5. Starting from the 18th tier, a channel system is formed with blots in the rows 23-25 and 32–34.
6. Put the valves on tiers No. 29 and 33.

Advice: It is advised to carefully smear the joints with a clay-sand solution after each ceiling has been formed.

If you have some prior experience building furnaces, you can take up a circular Dutch that is set up inside an Ø1 m metal casing. The heater will be displayed below (solid performance for ranks 1-3).

The construction of the chimney

The pipe used to remove combustion products is arranged in layers, beginning with the furnace’s 36th tier, which is an overlap. Using a solution that includes cement M400 is permitted when laying the chimney channel.

To withstand fire safety requirements, passage through a wooden ceiling and a roof must be performed with a pipe with thickened walls. The so -called cutting is formed in the ceiling, and on the roof – otter. The goal of strengthening the walls is to ensure the normative distance of 38 cm between the gas engine and the roofing structures made of combustible materials, as shown in the diagram.
At the end of the construction, give Dutchk 5-10 days to complete the solution, then carefully inspect all the seams for the formation of cracks. If any are found, carefully fill them with clay solution, having previously expanded with a trowel. At the end, check the traction and perform the primary heating, as the master advises in the video:

Final events

1. After the laying is completed on the furnace, a chimney is installed. The gap formed between the floor and the structure is closed by the pre-heet sheet, otherwise sand will be poured from under the furnace.

Drylander"s oven: features of Dutch furnaces, instructions for independent manufacturing of the Dutchk furnace

Emperor Peter 1 is credited with bringing the Drylander stove to Russia. He was the one who issued the order that forbade the installation of furnaces without chimneys, although Russian stoves were in use at the time. Dutch has lengthy smoke circuits inside of a high brick furnace. Heating efficiency rises dramatically in the furnace as a result of the lengthy gas circulation.

Dutch can be square, rectangular, or rounded in shape. You can paint it or add a lining. Dutch design will be based on what works better inside. This furnace is very popular among summer residents and private sector workers because it fits perfectly into the premises of houses.

Dutchwoman’s construction is remarkably straightforward. As previously mentioned, it effectively heats small rooms up to 40 m 2 and has a high fire safety rating.

If you follow the directions and take everything seriously, even a novice can assemble the stove like a Dutchman.

Features of the Dutch furnace

• a spacious fuel without blowing;
• The fuel should always be rectangular;
• 3 ascending and 3 descending chimneys, thanks to these designs, the gases pass sequentially, warming all the walls of the furnace, and exit through the chimney;
• Lack of graters.

Dutchwoman stoves are primarily used for heating. If there is asbestos or another non-combustible material covering the surface, the hob can be installed on it just like on a gas boiler. It can also have a water heating system installed inside of it.

Instruction on the manufacture of Dutch furnace

Laying the Dutch with the assistance of skilled hands will come at a high cost. It makes the most sense, therefore, to gather one of these stoves yourself. The Dutchwoman up to 1.2 m tall will require the following supplies:

• stove for the base (at least 130 × 130);
• dry cement;
• sieve for uniform application of dry cement;
• Armenian rods.

• sifted river sand;
• Clay – 0.5 m3
• water.

In the case of a brick building:

• 200 pieces of red ceramic brick of standard size;
• 50 pieces of refractory chamotis for the furnace;
• Topka door;
• steel wire to attach the door;
• roofing material for waterproofing the foundation;
• metal pipe for the chimney;
• Glitter.

Creating the foundation

Installing the foundation is a prerequisite to laying out the furnace. A plate works well as a foundation. When laying out bricks, the plate should be even to make it easier to see the rows. This furnace should have its foundation built into the floor, both inland and around the perimeter. Furthermore, a layer of sand must be placed between the house’s foundation and the furnace’s future base.

1. First, the size of the future furnace is noted. If the house already has a floor covering, then it will need to be lifted.
2. A cement solution is kneaded in a ratio of 1: 3.
3. The plate is inserted into the recess and poured with cement, then it is immediately laid on a non -hardened solution of rod from the reinforcement in the form of a grid. The distances between the rods should be about 10 cm. Next, the structure is poured with the remaining cement and leveled.
4. To seal the resulting structure, it is necessary to sprinkle with a sieve on top with a dry cement and leve. The foundation is ready.

The kneading of a furnace laying solution is required prior to constructing masonry out of brick. Since regular cement loses its properties at high temperatures, it cannot be used. To accomplish this, combine clay and water in a 1 to 4 ratio. Clay needs to soak for a few hours. Water needs to be drained if it stays after a while.

The clay must be combined with river sand when it swells; additionally, you must take the amount of soaked clay that results.

Finally, incorporate one-eighth of the water from the volume of clay and river sand that results into the mixture.

When the prepared solution is dropped onto the shoulder blade, lumps should still be present due to its consistency. You must add more clay if it is very liquid.

Laying bricks

Each brick needs to be submerged in the water for a short while before the furnace is put together to prevent the applied moisture solution from absorbing into the finished structure.

When masonry is applied to a brick that has been overexposed to water, the brick will not adhere well to the solution and the seams between the bricks will not become thick.

Additionally, stains from the solution may cause the furnace’s color to appear unclean.

1. A double layer of roofing material is laid on a pre -prepared foundation in order to prevent moisture from entering.
2. Then, on the roofing material, river sand is filled with a layer not exceeding 50 mm. In order to do this as accurately as possible, it is necessary to use the level.
3. The first brick row is laid out next. There should be 11 of them in total. The first row is built without the use of the solution. Before filling it with solution, you need to check the correctness of the layout using the level. The solution is applied with a thin layer over the entire surface of the first row.
4. 2 subsequent rows are already placed in the solution. Up to 3 row, ordinary red brick is used, which is placed horizontally.
5. Starting from the fourth row, the brick is placed. Moreover, for this series, it is necessary to use fireproof yellow brick, since in this place there will be a place for the fuel. Seams for 4 and 5 levels should not exceed half a centimeter. Otherwise, their thickness is 0.8 cm.Excess solutions are removed using trowel.
6. To clean the future Dutch from ash, you can make a disassembleing wall from the back of the furnace. In this place, bricks do not need to be fastened with a solution. Also, for convenience, in this place you can attach the door instead of a disassembled brick wall, but then the warmth through it will simply disappear.
7. The door for the ashin is attached using steel wire. Before installing it, you need to “put it on” in any non -combustible material, for example, asbestos.
8. The layout of the bricks by the edge continues until the door of the door continues. Then they are again laid out flat, starting from 7 – 8 row. When the brick begins to give all the best depends on the future height of the Dutch. It is necessary to constantly check the structure for the level.
9. The 7th row is laid out in the same way as the first and second, but the rear wall must be laid out with an edge.
10. 8 row "ties" the fuel completely. At this level, the brick is laid out along the oblique.
11. The level 9 should be shifted a little back. It is necessary to lay asbestos on top so that you can install the hob.
12. In the next row, it is necessary to make the base for a metal pipe, which will be the future chimney for the furnace.
13. The damper is laid out in the last row. At the same level, a stove"s gathering with a chimney is formed.
14. The finished structure can be finished with tiles, paint or turn white. The existing cracks between the Dutchwoman and the flooring must be closed using special skirting boards.

However, the Dutchwoman must "dry" in less than 14 days in order to be used continuously. Doors to the stove should be open. To speed up the process, it is advised to open the windows in the house.

The Dutchman is prepared to heat the space if there are no wet areas.

If the stove was constructed during the winter, you can dry it out by burning small fuel, like paper or chips, for 30 minutes.

Stages of manufacture of round Dutch

Foundation

Like any other design, the foundation must be made first in order for the Dutchk bake to be round and work properly:

1. To do this, you need to dig a recess in which the base for the furnace will be installed.
2. First, take measurements and disassemble the flooring, having in advance of the future location of the system.
3. Dig a recess and pour a cement solution of this consistency into it: 1 bucket of cement, 3 buckets of sand.
4. On top of the resulting future, the reinforcing screed should be put so that the foundation is better held by the design of the Dutch.
5. Let the solution dry 10-15 days before starting work on the construction of the furnace.

Production of a metal casing

The German designer Utenamark established a metal casing for the Dutch stove in the Russian Empire; similar systems are sometimes referred to as "dull marching" in honor of this invention.

There is a large selection of ready-made metal covers for Dutch furnaces available on the market today for heating systems and goods. Since they are offered in ready-made sizes, you should measure the furnace’s size beforehand if you plan to use the "dull marting" you bought from the store. This is how ready-made, prefabricated metal casings appear:

In the event that you choose to construct the metal casing yourself, you can utilize roofing iron or standard galvanized sheet as the material:

1. It is better to prepare the workpieces for installation in advance, after making holes for the furnace, valves, blown and doors for cleaning. It is important to understand that the masonry forms the size of the casing, so keep in mind when it is made. Harvesting for the casing
2. A sheet of iron is fastened to a rounded mold with rivets, in extreme cases, you can cook the structure if it allows you to do the thickness of the metal.

Masonry and order

Making a round Dutch stove by hand is a risky decision because not every master is prepared to take on the installation of such designs. An important aspect of laying a Dutch furnace is the arrangement of its rows. However, if you are sure of your abilities, it is crucial to use a specifically created ordering for this design.

The round in the casing of the Dutch stove section looks like this:

Dutch circuit of round in this context

A characteristic of brick masonry

The Dutch is laid down concurrently with the installation of the casing. The first three rows of the system are installed in the brick floor prior to the flooring. Next, a casing—its first, lower ring—is installed with the aid of a plumb line and level. A ready-made, partially liquid clay solution is poured into the space between the case wall and the masonry.

As the firebox takes shape, it’s critical to pay attention to the arrangement and detailing to ensure the design is stable and highly effective. When this happens, one can participate in the кладке последующих частей голландской системы.

The system is crucial in this situation, even though the design seems straightforward; without it, the mason cannot install the entire system correctly. This is how the first twelve rows start, and the diagram shows all of the Chollanders along with their sizes:

The following design shows the pipe diagram and rows 13 through 29:

Please be aware that the system will not work properly and smoke will enter the house if even one row is folded improperly, let alone multiple errors. To

How to fight condensate

Resin condenses when firewood is burned on the chimney walls, flowing down and forming strange stalactites in the furnace. These stalactites are partially burned, of course, but part of them solidifies and obstructs the release of gases. To prevent this, you can take the following actions:

• pre -dry the firewood;
• increase combustion temperature;
• From time to time to burn the structure to "red potassium".

Such detrimental elements cannot be eliminated, but they can be diminished.

1. The assembly of the chimney must be carried out against the movement of gases – so most of them will be burned.
2. The chimney should quickly be dismantled if necessary. To do this, it is connected by self -tapping screws.
3. You can experiment with various combustion modes, choose the optimum temperature. For a visual assessment of fuel combustion, you need to inspect the furnace chamber after cooling. If stalactites have formed, then you need to increase the temperature. Dutch stove

Safety precautions

The Dutchman’s operation will be safer if safety regulations are followed. The following are guidelines and prerequisites:

• Do not use inappropriate solutions and mixtures for laying a furnace.
• Remember that the finished Dutchman should turn out not only even, but also hermetic (otherwise the whole house smokes).
• Lay a sheet of iron in front of the firebox – it will prevent a fire in case of accidental loss of coals from the furnace.
• Pay attention to the passage of the chimney through the wooden structures of the ceiling – here it is necessary to make isolation that will not allow the tree to overheat.

The furnace’s placement must also be considered; it should be at least 50 centimeters away from any furniture and other structures in the space.

Tips and recommendations

You can figure out the furnace’s required measurements for a 40 square meter space. A size of 780 x 580 mm is thought to be ideal at the furnace’s 210 mm height.

Before using bricks, experts recommend immersing each one in water for several minutes to help eliminate air bubbles and improve the quality of the masonry.

The masonry will be of higher quality because this procedure will prevent the brick from absorbing the solution.

Before installing a Dutch door, the door frames that were installed during the masonry process must be wrapped with an asbestos cord or varnish that has fire-guided properties because they are exposed to temperature changes.

The most frequent issue that needs furnace repair that was previously operational is leaving bricks at the ends and angles of the furnace. This is avoided by finishing specialized plates in different shapes during the masonry process.

Expert stovers claim that the distance between the chimney pipe and roof ceiling is a crucial sign of the Dutchki furnace’s long-term performance and quality. It should ideally be at least 15 cm.

For smaller structures, experts advise using one brick for wall construction, and for larger structures, two bricks. The Dutch furnace’s characteristic minimum fuel flow combined with maximum heat transfer can only be achieved with this thickness.

Design and principle of action

The Dutch woman’s design includes the following elements:

1. The rectangular shape in which the furnace door is located on the short side, and chimney channels on a long elongated.
2. A prerequisite for the furnace chamber – it consists of high -quality refractory brick.
3. Lack of ash compartment. As a result of this, the fuel, which is not arranged by the air traction, fades slowly, with the maximum return of heat into the room.
4. The heat exchanger of the furnace consists of several (in the classic version – of 6) vertical smoke channels. Hot gases rise by chimney, giving heat to the walls. Cooling, they go down again to the firebox, heated and the process is repeated three times. The sixth channel is associated with the pipe through which the smoke goes outside.
5. The absence of a grate. This feature brings the design to the fireplace, but with a large (about 2 times) efficiency. If you fully open the door of the furnace chamber, Dutchwoman will turn into a fireplace. The presence of a ash chamber and a grate in the Dutch – the trend of the new time
6. Thin walls. It is this feature that allows the furnace to quickly warm up.
7. Heating mission is the main function, and beds, hobs and oven – this is the improvement of the unit.

The flow of hot gases through the chimney’s vertical channels forms the furnace’s basic function.

Detailed assembly instructions

Folding a Dutchman’s stove by hand isn’t that hard; follow our step-by-step instructions for assistance. For small buildings, we’ll employ a straightforward design featuring a compact furnace. It can be used, for instance, to heat a summer house. Starting with the simplest assembly requires first acquiring the required tools and supplies. To put the furnace together, you’ll need:

Using premium chamota brick is essential for dependable fire safety and should not be done on a whim. As a result, saving money on its purchase is not worthwhile in any scenario!

• Ordinary brick – several hundred pieces.
• Fireproof (shamot) brick – several dozen pieces.
• Clay for clay solution – used to fasten brick.
• Doors to the firebox, was also blown by cleaning, as well as a grate – they are implemented in household and specialized stores (contact where stoves and accessories are sold to build your own baths and saunas).

Tools such as a hammer for drilling brick, a trowel for handling a solution, a building level for lining up masonry, twine for keeping track of the masonry’s vertical position, brick-cutting tools, steel wire for fastening doors, and asbestos cord for placing between brick and doors will also be needed. As they go, we’ll keep in mind and bring up the others.

Preparation of the foundation

We will focus on the conventional unit without a hob in this review. Similar to a do-it-yourself stove, the Dutchman’s stove assembles in a different order. All you need to do is identify an appropriate assembly plan. Purchasing a cast-iron hob will also be required; these can be found in the same store as the grated doors (we discussed this a little earlier).

We set up the foundation site so that the Dutchman will stand on a sturdy concrete base rather than a wooden floor. This is the primary challenge in doing the work. To get to the house’s base, disassemble the floors, construct a wooden formwork, and pour the foundation. Dig a hole about 50–60 cm deep if there aren’t any sexes yet. Lay the layers after that:

• 10-15 cm of sand-carefully and for a long time tamp.
• Up to 20 cm of large stones – we tamp it again.
• 10 cm crushed stone – again press.

It is necessary to strengthen the future screed. We purchase reinforcement that has a diameter of 8 to 10 mm, grind it into appropriate-sized rods with a grinder, and then assemble it into a grill with a 10 by 10 cm cell. The lattice should be situated within the concrete screed’s thickness. Pour the concrete; the base is 15 cm above the ground. Our Callian furnace foundation is prepared; however, do not hurry to remove it; instead, allow the concrete to solidify.

One part cement, 2.5 parts sand, 4.5 parts gravel, and water to a suitable consistency is the recipe for the foundation’s concrete.

Leave the clay solution to the experts; they are skilled at both correctly preparing clay and creating a robust solution from it. Special refractory mixtures for stoves and fireplaces are available for purchase for lovers. A pack costs approximately 600 rubles.

The order of the small Dutch

The furnace assembly will be completed in compliance with the subsequent order. It has 36 straightforward rows. With sufficient capacity to heat a small house, the output is an impressive stove.

The Dutch are built upon the first two rows, which are continuous. Simply arrange the bricks in the designated pattern and join the pieces to complete the solution. Fill the spaces between the bricks with refractory mixture or clay, using the back of a hammer or a wooden kiyanka.

The side treatment doors are installed on the third row, and the internal smoke channels Dutch are cleaned through them. The smoke channels start from this point. The door is positioned in rows four and five. Take note of how the doors are mounted; they are fastened with steel wire, the ends of which are positioned in between bricks. The layer between the metal and the bricks is asbestos cord.

The Dutch stove’s subsequent row was constructed; use the level and vertical twine to ensure that the styling is accurate.

The smoke channels continue in the sixth row, and here is where the innovation lies—the masonry of refractory bricks begins, marking the start of the combustion chamber. We fix the grate at this point. The Topka Dutchwoman stretches outwards beginning in the eighth row. The masonry of the smoke channels continues in the subsequent rows. The combustion chamber’s construction is finished on the thirteenth row. It proved to be fairly high, but narrow.

Rows 14, 15, and 16 are comparable to one another. The Coshell stove’s firebox ends in the 17th row, and she is no longer there in the 18th. The next cleaning door is positioned in row 19. Their abundance will enable you to constantly clean the smoke channels without risking stove damage. The Dutchwoman’s main structure ends on the 24th row; the chimney rises from row 25 onward.

Masonry stoves come in a variety of styles, including Dutch models. Either way, you ought to purchase a small vertical unit. The assembly of a Dutch stove enclosed in a metal casing will require the ability to operate a welding machine. These models are known for their increased compactness, and they typically lack hobs.

Final work

It’s acceptable to speak in Dutch. particular "Chmpocry" logs. Examine Polen’s instructions; doing so will help you avoid making mistakes.

Although our Dutchwoman is prepared, it will be some time before her operation begins. It must first be allowed to dry, which usually takes 21 days. The fireproof clay solution will freeze and the concrete screed will fully mature during this period. You can move on to the tests if the cladding was made of gorgeous, smooth brick. Feel free to begin if you intend to finish with tiles or ceramics.

Traction check is the first step in testing a Dutch stove. This is accomplished by lighting a newspaper or piece of paper on fire in the furnace. Excellent traction is expected if the design aligns with the scheme. Following that, we spread out the ash, stack the larger firewood, and place small chips and pieces of paper in between them. We light the fuel that was pledged, shut the furnace door, and let it open. Our Dutchman ought to warm up now. We close the blow and can lessen traction as soon as heat enters the space. It is now required to periodically add larger and fresher pieces of firewood to the furnace.

As the ash builds up, it is extracted from the blower; this procedure should be carried out at least once every one to two days. To prevent resin fraud, the oven should be melted to the maximum two or three times a year.

Rules for the construction of Dutch

Any alterations to the Dutch must adhere to certain guidelines:

• It is necessary to install a separate foundation from the house. Therefore, the construction of the Dutch one needs to think even at the stage of building a house. You need to find a certain place for the furnace so that the chimney channels do not fall under the beams or roofing floors. If you do not provide for the construction of the Dutch in advance, it will be necessary to dismantle the floors. The foundation must be done, since the oven has a large weight. If you combine the base with the foundation of the house, then cracks will appear due to the difference in loads. The stove will shrink, deform, the chimney will shift. As a result of depressurization of the seams, the furnace will become fire hazardous, and carbon monoxide will penetrate the house.
• The foundation is necessarily closed with a waterproofer.

• At the stage of the device of the furnace chamber, a high -quality fireproof brick should be used. You cannot bandage it with the usual. The masonry solution should be special – clay, refractory. You can purchase a finished mixture or make it yourself.
• It is important to observe the thickness of the seam – a furnace chamber, not more than 5 mm, the rest of the structure – from 5 to 8 mm.

Regarding a note. Use a wooden rail between the masonry to ensure even seams.

If you want to lower your energy costs and increase the warmth and comfort of your home, building your own Gollande heating oven can be a satisfying project. DIY enthusiasts can confidently set out on this journey with the aid of comprehensive photos, drawings, and perceptive guesses.

Through careful execution of the directions and the use of easily acquired components, people can tailor their Gollande heating oven to suit their unique requirements and tastes. Whether it’s for a suburban house or a tiny cabin in the woods, this do-it-yourself method allows for versatility and inventiveness.

The Gollande heating oven’s effectiveness in using wood as a renewable heat source is one of its main features. In addition to being environmentally friendly, this sustainable feature gives homeowners looking for alternative heating options a sense of independence.

Building a Gollande heating oven also encourages a closer bond with the house and its heating system. People learn more about thermal dynamics and energy management by doing practical construction and problem-solving.

To sum up, the do-it-yourself Gollande heating oven is a useful and satisfying way to improve your home’s insulation and heating. Homeowners can contribute to a more sustainable future while simultaneously enjoying the warmth and coziness of their customized heating solution with easily accessible resources and a little ingenuity.

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