DIY corner fireplace step -by -step instruction

There’s always going to be room for a fireplace in a country house, whether it’s already built or not—especially since many people have this as their dream home. Overly large fireplaces are difficult to fit into a tiny space and have intricate internal construction that is beyond the capabilities of an amateur builder. A corner fireplace is an additional item. As it takes up a "modest" portion of a useful area, we can say that this option is appropriate for even the smallest room. It can add a unique style and maximize comfort levels to the home.

Step-by-step instructions for making a DIY corner fireplace

Furthermore, you can even attempt to assemble a beginner stove with your own hands if you have step-by-step instructions for the construction of which are required for independent construction.

The advantages of the corner fireplace

Different models of corner fireplaces are available. While some are solely extracted from brick, others are combined with both brickwork and metal components. Which is the better option? That will rely on the housing owner’s preferences and financial situation. It should be mentioned that the combined fireplace will be slightly less expensive than the one whose construction was solely brick-based.

To determine how profitable it is to establish a corner fireplace under specific circumstances, it is important to weigh its benefits:

• The first is the saving of funds for the material for construction, since it will need much less than on the construction of a wall or island fireplace.
• The second is the rational use of the area, since the compactness of the structure allows you to install it both in a small summer house and in a cottage with a sufficiently large area.
• The third is a relatively simple diagram-abroad, in which even a novice master can understand. Even with not quite successful external masonry, it can be closed with finishing material, such as decorative plaster, ceramic tiles for a fireplace or a finished stone portal. Moreover, some options for applying plaster can be made in the form of complex exclusive relief drawings.
• And finally, the aesthetic and functional value of the construction. The fireplace will make the room cozy, which will allow you to spend inclement days and evenings near it in comfort.

The project of the fireplace

Preliminary sketches

Making a thorough project and a sketch of the intended heating structure is a prerequisite for the successful installation of a corner fireplace in the space. Naturally, it is preferable to lay the fireplace’s foundation at the same time as the house’s base, but keep in mind that they shouldn’t be connected.

Initial drawing of the intended fireplace

One of the rooms in the pre-built house has a corner fireplace that you can access, but you will also need to make careful calculations to ensure that the chimney does not rest on the attic float or rafter leg.

The following is how design work is completed:

• First you need to determine the room and angle in it where the fireplace will be installed.
• Further, on a sheet of paper, you need to perform a small sequent drawing that will visually determine how selected the option will be “to the place” precisely in this room and in the style of its design.
• After that, given the design scheme of the attic ceiling and the rafter system, the fireplace drawing project is made.

The fireplace drawing option

Corner fireplaces can vary from one another depending on certain structural features. For instance, the bottom portion of it can be outfitted with a blowing chamber with a door or a metal drawer, or a camera for drying firewood. Occasionally, brick cabinets are positioned on either side of the fireplace and serve as aesthetically pleasing shelves where floor vases or fireplace accessories can be placed.

There are various shapes that the fireplace can take. It can be semicircular, trapezoidal, square, or rectangular. Every developed model has an outdoor niche option. You should consider this factor right away when selecting a fireplace for yourself because it will be challenging to change later.

Furthermore, a corner fireplace can have a built-in finished metal firebox or a firebox constructed of chamotis brick. These metal cameras have a door made of heat-resistant glass that lets you enjoy the fire while keeping combustion products out of the space. The door won’t become a barrier for people who enjoy having a fire and the smell of burning firewood because it can always be opened.

Completed metal furnace camera intended for a hearth

The project and sketch of the fireplace must include all desired elements right away. After that, attempt to select the guidelines that experts have developed for stoves on it.

Calculations of linear fireplace parameters

For the fireplace to meet all safety standards and operate as intended, the following factors must be considered when performing calculations:

Creating optimal traction is essential for the safe and high-quality operation of any heating device. This is because it keeps smoke out of the premises while also allowing for the longest possible heat preservation. Furthermore, regular traction will aid in rapidly igniting a fireplace and preserving the allowable fire intensity. The fireplace’s overall design ought to incorporate:

• High heat transfer, fast and uniform heating of the structure.
• The fireplace should not stick the house during downtime, that is, it is required to create conditions for blocking the chimney pipe.
• Aesthetic appearance and compactness.

These are the variables that are considered and computed during the project’s design. They are largely dependent on the space that the fireplace is intended to heat.

Fireplace fireplace

The selection of an appropriate furnace size has a direct impact on the room’s temperature and ambience.

The area of the room is used to calculate this element’s size. The area is divided by 50 in this case, and the resultant value will indicate the approximate size of the firebox window. Therefore, a fireplace with a combustion area of 0.32 to 0.54 m² is sufficient for a small room.

A table that can assist you in quickly calculating this crucial parameter for the fireplace’s optimal operation is available here:

The dimensions of various elements of the fireplace, mm	Room area, m².
12	15	20	25	thirty	40
The width of the portal	400	500	600	700	800	900
The height of the portal	420	490	560	630	700	770
The depth of the furnace	300	320	350	380	400	420
The height of the back wall	At least 360
The width of the rear wall	300	400	450	500	600	700
The height of the smoke collection	570	600	630	660	700	800
Cross -section of the chimney having rough inner walls	140 × 270	140 × 270	270 × 270	270 × 270	270 × 400	270 × 400
The section of the chimney with smooth internal walls	140 × 140	140 × 270	140 × 270	270 × 270	270 × 270	270 × 270

The ideal ratio for the fireplace window is 3:2, and the height should be smaller than the hearth’s width.

The depth of the furnace chamber is a crucial parameter as well because it directly affects how effective the fireplace is. It should be equivalent to ⅔ or ½ from the furnace’s height, per the standards.

Heat transfer is greatly decreased if these parameters are left unchecked, as the majority of the heat will enter the pipe directly, either for cost-savings reasons or aesthetic reasons. All that’s left is to marvel at the fire’s intense flame while clumsily stuffing firewood into the hearth.

Additionally, there is a chance that the room will frequently get smoke from the furnace chamber as its height decreases, which could result in soot buildup on the walls, ceiling, furniture, and accessories. Additionally, using such a fireplace will become very dangerous.

Chimono d d la fireplaces

Apart from accurately calculating the firebox, chimney parameters play a significant role in preventing smoke since they also impact the creation of normal traction and the process of burning firewood.

Accurate measurements of the pipe height, channel diameter, and rectangular cross-sectional area size are necessary. Safety regulations stipulate that the chimney’s diameter cannot be less than 150 ÷ 170 mm, or that its rectangular cross section should measure one-tenth the size of the furnace chamber.

The chimney pipe’s proper placement in relation to the roof skate

The fluid pipe typically rises to a height of five meters, but occasionally a higher elevation will be needed. This parameter will vary depending on the height of the roof’s skate as well as the area of the roof where it will be placed.

Fireplace materials and the necessary tools

After compiling a project and making calculations, they choose and buy building materials. You must decide right away if decorative material will be used to finish the fireplace or if it will be built "for the extension." What kind of brick is suitable for masonry?

Since the foundation is the first thing to be built, the firebox and chimeneine pipe are laid out first, and only then can the precise materials needed for the construction of the fireplace be listed.

Foundation

There is no need to set up a strong foundation because the intended structure is not as large as a stove. A well-buried slab foundation works well as a basis for a light corner fireplace if one was built for the home. The fireplace base will require additional work if the foundation is strip.

• Waterproofing is necessary for any structure – it will reliably protect it from the capillary penetration of moisture from the soil and will allow it to stand without damage for a long time. Therefore, it is necessary to purchase a waterproofing material – it can be a roofing material or a dense plastic film .
• Crushing stone and sand will be required to arrange the foundation pillows and manufacture a concrete solution.
• To make formwork, you need a board. Use two methods of making formwork – temporary and stationary. When choosing a temporary option, after the foundation gains strength and will be ready for further work, the formwork is dismantled, and the sand-gravel mixture is poured into the gaps left from it and concrete.

A metal sheet is frequently used in addition to formwork boards, particularly in situations where the foundation has a complex shape, such as a semicircle.

• Reinforcement in the form of metal rods with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm. Reinforced rods are binded by steel wire, forming a net.

Buying a finished reinforcing steel grid with 50–80 mm cells is an additional choice.

Fireplace walls and chimney

The building of the fireplace and chimney itself will require the following materials:

• For laying walls, furnace and chimney, it will be necessary to purchase two types of full brick – red and chamot.

Superior red ceramic brick

Prices of Shamotnaya bricks

Shamotic brick

In the event that the fireplace is rejected, premium ceramic brick must be chosen. Working (private) brick is also appropriate if the fireplace’s exterior decoration is intended.

– The furnace chamber and chimney’s base are laid with chamotum fire-resistant brick.

Brick Chamotis Fireplite

Costs of ceramic bricks

Ceramic brick

The plane determines the brick, and the amount is determined by the model’s chosen order. Between 350 and 650 pieces might be needed, even for a tiny corner fireplace. You should factor in 10 ÷ 12% of the reserve when buying a brick; this will be useful if any of the specimens are defective or if there is unanticipated damage from fittings that don’t match the order.

• For a pantry solution, traditional materials can be used, such as clay, sand and cement . However, it should be noted that it is very difficult to choose the desired fat content of clay and optimal proportions for furnace, and if there is no experience in this process, it is better to use ready -made compounds that only require proper preparation, the technology of which is indicated on the packaging. Such masonry compositions can be purchased in specialized stores in the form of dry building mixtures.

Dry construction mortar that is ready to be laid for a fireplace

Another subtlety that seasoned stoves advise you to be aware of is that the furnace chamber laying, which involves using chamotis brick, should be done on a wiped solution composed primarily of clay with very little addition of sand or cement.

Costs of heat-resistant mortar mixtures for furnaces and fireplaces

Pantry heat -resistant mixture

• Steel corners in size of 40 × 40 or 50 × 50. The length of these elements is chosen depending on the width of the combustion, drying or blowing chamber. 300 ÷ 400 mm is added to the size of these cameras, and the resulting value is multiplied by two, since the corners will be laid on both sides of the chambers.
• If a fireplace model with a semicircular shape of the firebox is selected, you will have to prepare a template from a board, plywood or metal sheet. For supports, you can use free bricks or wooden beams.

Installing a template to help with arch layout

• The fluid pipe can be made of brick or made of metal. If the last option is selected, then the pipe needs to be purchased at least five meters long, but to find out more precisely how much it is required, you need to measure the measurements at the site of the fireplace, from its top to the height of the ridge.
• For a brick chimney, a fireplace valve with a long handle is required.

Chimney valve

• For a metal pipe, a built -in adjusting element will be needed – Shiber .

Stainless chimney component: Shiper

• If it is decided to integrate the finished cast -iron or steel furnace into the fireplace, then it is she who is acquired instead. I must say that the installation in the fireplace of the finished firebox will greatly simplify and accelerate the work, as the bricks of the finished form will be made.
• Since the fireplace will be installed in the corner, the walls forming the angle must be isolated from the effects of high temperatures. For this, heat -resistant drywall or asbestos sheets are purchased.

• For facing the structure, you can use different materials – it can be facing tiles that simulates stone, ceramic tiles, decorative plaster or even a ready -made portal from natural or artificial stone.

You might be interested in learning more about the stove proportion solution and how to knead it.

Necessary tools

Before laying any kind of fireplace, get the following tools ready:

The instruments required to build a fireplace

1. To crack bricks, you’ll need a hammer and pick.

2. Kindergartens in different sets ups with tiny dimensions for putting the solution on and lining it up.

3. Large trim (kelma) in large sizes for putting the solution on a big plane and mixing it.

4. The building level is required to regulate the masonry’s horizontal and vertical seams.

5. A plumb line to measure the wall’s verticals.

6. If at all possible, use a laser level to make marking the floor and walls easier.

7-cord, which will determine how each row of masonry is shown.

8. A wooden or rubber hammer called a kiyanka is used to align bricks in a row.

9. The rule is used to check the evenness of the fireplace walls and to align the flooded foundation.

10 – Water and kneading container containers.

11-Expanding to provide clean, shaped seams.

Preparatory work

Fill the foundation

In the event that you must begin working with the foundation, the following steps are taken in accordance with one scheme:

• Before the construction of the foundation for it, it is necessary in the ground under the floor to make a deepening of 400 ÷ 500 mm. It should have the shape of the base of the fireplace, but 100 ÷ 120 mm wider.
• Further, sand is poured to the bottom of the pit – it will become the first layer of waterproofing for the foundation. The thickness of this layer in a compacted form should be 100 ÷ 120 mm. In order to achieve the maximum density of the sand layer, it is moistened with water during the tamping process.
• On top of the sand pillow, a backfill of crushed stone is made, which is also compacted. Its layer should be the same in thickness with a layer of sand.

Pile jacket with laid reinforcement and a sand-gravel cushion

• Next, reinforcing elements are laid on crushed stone.
• Then the walls of the house are fenced off from the future foundation with asbestos sheets that protect them from high temperatures and help maintain heat inside the room.
• The next step is to install formwork. If the base is semicircular, as shown in the photo, then the most optimal option would be to protect it with a metal sheet, which is supported by piles of brick.

The formwork for a foundation with even lines at the base, such as a rectangle, trapezoid, etc., is typically constructed from lost-between-the-boards boards. If spaces appeared between the boards, the formwork was covered with a plain plastic film from the inside. In addition to giving the solution specifics, it will hold onto moisture in the mixture for an extended length of time, enabling it to absorb and intensify uniformly.

• When the formwork is ready, you can knead the solution. It is advisable to pour the entire volume of the foundation in one approach, but its first layer can be made more rude, consisting of a sand-gravel mixture and cement 4: 1. The thickness of this layer can be 120 ÷ 150 mm.

Immediately on top of it, a layer of a more delicately proportioned 1: 3 cement-to-sand solution is applied.

After being poured, the foundation gets stronger.

• The surface of the foundation is aligned using the rule, closed with a plastic film and is left for ripening. This method of caring for freshly laid concrete is especially appropriate if the foundation is built in the summer at high temperatures on the street, when the evaporation of moisture occurs by an accelerated pace.

Upon completion, once the foundation’s strength has been restored, a two- or three-layered roofing material is applied.

Preparation for brickwork

After many years of labor, each master of the shelter has developed his or her own set of techniques for laying heating structures. It would be good to learn about a few of them prior to the fireplace’s construction.

• The laying of the fireplace begins only three ÷ four weeks after pouring the foundation, since the concrete should be well hardened .
• If the masonry is carried out on a clay solution, then before starting work, the brick is soaked in water for one and a half ÷ two days. The brick saturated with water will no longer absorb moisture from the solution too intensively, and this will allow you to go evenly, which will prevent cracking at the seams.

Bricks soaked before beginning pantry

• In order to prevent serious errors in the order and carefully understand the configuration of each row, even experienced stovers, starting the construction of a new furnace model, are launched by the entire “dry” structure, without the use of a solution. If you perform such a procedure, the main laying on the solution will be much easier and faster.

Furthermore, the bricks can be quickly fitted to the required size and numbered by determining the row number and the element’s location when the "dry" fireplace is laid out. Remember that there should be 8 × 10 mm of space between bricks and rows at the seams.

• Well, another everyday moment, which should be taken into account, during such work in the room, dust and dirt will inevitably form in the room. So that things are not spoiled, they are recommended to be taken out of the room or cover them with dense plastic wrap, with cloths over 500 mm with canvases.

These small details will make work much easier and more convenient, as well as cleaning after the masonry is finished. You can move straight on to the masonry after studying the subtleties of the preparatory work.

You might be curious to know more about what a heating fireplace is.

Masonry of the corner fireplace

To help you make an informed decision, you can look at a variety of simple and more complex schemes and samples. And everyone will already know which of the models is the easiest to complete.

First option

This will appear to be a completed fireplace.

Because of the unusual shape of the furnace chamber, this version of the fireplace is quite complicated; however, it can also be realized if desired, depending on how each row of the scheme’s features is described.

• 1 row – on it you need to work extremely carefully and accurately, since the quality of the entire further masonry will depend on it.
• 2 row – a niche is formed, in which a ash collecting box will be installed.
• 3 row – laid out according to the scheme. In the middle part of the surface, a hole is left to discharge ash from the furnace chamber into a ash.
• 4 row – at this stage the bottom part of the firebox is laid out, for this, fireclay fireproof brick is used. The hole left in the previous row is covered with a cast -iron grate (gallop).
• 5 row – on this row the back and side walls of the furnace begin to be built, which will form a portal. The laying of the walls is carried out in two rows in thickness – the first, is located near the wall, and is removed from red brick, the second, inside the furnace, is placed from chamotis, and the brick is mounted flat. The front of the flooring floor and the side walls of the portal are also erected from red brick.

• 6 ÷ 9 row – masonry is carried out according to the scheme and is fully consistent with the description of the fifth row. The walls of the furnace chamber are being built.
• 10 row – a very responsible work is carried out on this row – the construction of a fireplace portal. It should be noted that the shape of the portal can be changed to arched or rectangular if desired. However, if the portal has an arched or similar form with the arch, it is recommended to make a template for this. In this case, it can be cut out of ordinary plywood, 10 mm thick. For stability, the template should have a certain thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm, so two identical parts are cut out of plywood, between which a wide gasket is made.

The template is level and supported by brick piles on both sides. A brick that creates a figured portal is laid out on the template’s end side.

• 11 ÷ 12 rows – these two rows form the internal walls of the furnace chamber and the outer walls of the fireplace. When laying out the portal in the form of an arch or the same shape as it is represented in this order, the bricks on the outer and inner wall are cut or rumored in such a way that they are tightly adjacent to the shape of a figure portal.
• 13 ÷ 14 rows-the so-called "wall-mirror" is laid out on the back of the portal . Its laying is carried out.

Wall that is incline – "mirror"

There are two possible approaches to complete the task: either place the brick flat with a 40 × 50 mm shift towards the firebox, or install it beneath the slope as depicted in the picture. In the latter scenario, the wall’s surface needs to be smooth after it has been excavated, so a solution will be needed to level it. The direction of smoke rising from burning firewood is determined by this slope.

• 15 ÷ 18 rows – the rear inclined, side and front walls around the figure portal continues to form.
• 19 row – internal bricks of the combustion chamber move towards the furnace, forming a rectangular hole of the chimney.

• 20 row – the penultimate row before the completion of the masonry of the front wall around the portal. The upper part is laid out according to the scheme – the hole of the chimney continues to form.

• 21 row – completely overlaps the arched portal on the front wall and is displayed into even rows of masonry. The rear inclined wall passes into the so -called “tooth”, which, in a complex with a slope of the wall, regulates the passage of smoke to the fluid hole.

• 22 ÷ 23rd row – the "tooth" from chamotis brick continues to form. External masonry is carried out by ceramic red brick.

• 24 row – the hole of the chimney made of chamotis brick is displayed, and the surface of the fireplace shelf is from ceramic material.

25 rows of masonry up to the chimney pipe

• 25 row – the fireplace shelf is completely overlapped, a hole is left to install a chimney valve.
• 26 row – on this row, a valve is mounted on a hole for a chimneine pipe. It is best to choose a varia nt with an inna handle or gate.
• 27 row – a smoke ceramic or asbestos pipe is installed above the valve and is covered from all sides by brick prepared under its shape. Or even brick is used, and the gaps between it and the pipe are filled with a solution consisting of sand and clay.
• 28 and subsequent rows – there is a brick lining the installed round ceramic pipe.

It should be mentioned that if a beginner has never removed a furnace’s design, this version of the corner fireplace will be challenging to complete. As a result, it is preferable to bring a seasoned expert along as a partner to avoid mistakes.

The second option

Because this corner fireplace model is simpler to install, even beginners can easily master it. In addition, a thorough order is provided; this order is simpler than the design mentioned above. The red color of the area of use and the chamotis brick highlight the scheme, making it easier to understand.

Okradovka from the alternate choice

The square-shaped foundation of this corner fireplace is practical because it allows for the instant decoration of the pre-heating area with a heat-resistant surface, which is a requirement for any heating structure.

• A zero row of brick is laid on a waterproofed foundation – it will become the basis for laying the subsequent rows, so work on it needs to be carried out with particular thoroughness. It must be posted in strict accordance with the pattern shown in the diagram.
• The 1st row forms the bottom of the blowing chamber and is laid out according to the presented scheme, so it will be necessary to adjust two bricks, the angles of which must be cut or neatly chipped from the desired angle.
• 2 row – at this stage a niche is formed for drying firewood or a blowing chamber. They will only differ only in the presence or absence of a drawer-zolnik and grater.

In the event that the drying niche beneath the firebox is chosen, a 40 x 40 or 50 x 50 mm metal corner is placed on its exterior. This metal profile should be 600 mm long.

Choice of drying chamber

• 3 row – masonry goes according to the scheme, and a metal sheet of 600 × 400 mm is mounted on top of the drying niche, 4 ÷ 5 mm thick. Subject to the installation of the ash, instead of a metal sheet, a cast -iron grill of the same size is laid.
• 4th row – masonry goes according to the scheme if the metal sheet was laid on top of the niche. When the ash is arranged under the firebox, masonry is carried out according to the order of the order, with the exception – the grate remains open.
• 5 row – the bottom part of the firebox brick is formed. It is highlighted in the diagram.

The firebox’s masons used chamoty bricks.

• 6 ÷ 8 rows – the work is carried out in the same order: the walls of the furnace chamber rise from the ceramic red material, and the inside of the wall of the firebox is formed from fire -resistant chamotis brick, cut in the thickness in two.
• 7 ÷ 9 rows are also mounted according to the order.
• 10 ÷ 11 rows – on the back wall begins to form a slope towards the furnace chamber, which will become the lower part of the "tooth". In order for the slope to be even, the bricks are undermined and moved to each other.
• 12 row – at this stage, the furnace chamber overlaps along the outer edge with a steel corners of 50 × 50 mm, 600 mm long.
• 13 ÷ 14 rows are laid out according to the row.
• 15 row – the construction of the posterior wall and the “tooth” ends, over which the chimney begins.
• 16 ÷ 17 rows – the upper part of the portal passing into the fireplace shelf is formed. The brick is placed with a shift in the outside.
• 18 ÷ 20 rows – work goes according to the scheme. The upper hole of the fireplace is narrowed with each row, forming a chimney channel.
• 21 ÷ 24 rows – laying a chimneine pipe with additional side walls.
• 25 ÷ 29 rows – a fluid pipe is displayed, while a smoke valve is mounted on the 27th row.
• Starting from the 30th row, the chimney pipe is carried out – it can be laid out of brick, or a metal version is installed. The pipe is carried out through the attic overlap, and then through the roof.

The third option

The master in Bykovov created this corner fireplace model, which has been used in construction for a long time. It has gained popularity over this time because of its excellent design efficiency.

Bykov’s small corner fireplace

One clear benefit of the model is its compact size, as evidenced by the 770 mm length of the sides that run along the walls. This means that the fireplace can be installed even in a small space.

Due to the blower installed in this fireplace, a 250 x 250 mm grate is required for the furnace’s bottom opening. Metal stripes measuring 40 mm in width and 5 mm in thickness will be required to layout the furnace and ash chamber ceiling sections.

Cm in the fireplace, ore. Bykov

Marking the first row of masonry, which is mounted with particular care, is the first step in the construction of the fireplace.

• The 1st row is laid out on the waterproofing surface of the foundation, according to the markings made in advance and in compliance with the pattern of brickwork.
• 2 ÷ 3 rows are also laid strictly in accordance with the drawing of the order.
• 4th row – the base of the furnace chamber is issued, so its middle masonry is performed with chamotis brick.
• 5th row – the formation of a blunt chamber begins. Metal inserts are installed on its side and back wall, which are securely fixed on the surface of the bricks.
• The 6th row is laid out with chamotis brick, and a grate is installed on the metal inserts . You can do without inserts, but then the sides for installing the grater will have to be provided in the laying of the previous row, putting the bricks 10 ÷ 15 mm forward .
• 7 row – the walls of the furnace chamber are laid, as well as the side sides of the portal.
• 8 ÷ 12 rows – the walls of the firebox and the side racks of the fireplace are removed.
• 13 row – walls are dressed with steel stripes, in size of 600 × 50 × 5 mm.
• 14 ÷ 15 rows – the rear wall is laid out under the slope towards the front of the furnace – this slope is called the "mirror". Such a configuration helps to direction smoke into a chimneine pipe and, at the same time, it serves as a reflector of heat towards the room. The inclined part, the posterior wall of the furnace, lined at an angle of 20 degrees, smoothly passes into the ceiling and chimney.
• 16 row – a horizontal surface is removed, the so -called “tooth”, in fact, is the completion of the masonry of the “mirror”. “Tooth” is coated with a solution of sand and clay, since its surface should be perfectly smooth so that so that soot does not accumulate on it.
• 17 ÷ 19 rows – the inner part of the front wall of the fireplace is laid out with core bricks, since the shape of the chimney canal is created, which should evenly go around the “tooth”.
• 22 ÷ 22 rows – part of the chimney channel, called Haillo, is mounted. It should have a size of at least 140 × 270 mm. After laying 22 row, a smoke valve is installed on it on a clay solution.
• 23rd – continues to form a smoke -breeding channel, which has a curved shape.
• 24 ÷ 25 rows – the curved direction is displayed in the vertical position of the chimney. This hole should also have a size in a section of 140 × 270 mm.
• Having reached the fireplace department, a metal or ceramic pipe is installed, which is closed with a metal casing or brickwork.

Because the ceiling overlap and the rafter system are composed of combustible materials, it is imperative that the pipe’s passage through them be carefully considered in order to adhere to fire safety regulations. They ought to be separated from the chimney by means of specialized boxes that are packed with inflammable materials, like sand or expanded clay.

The masonry of the fireplace should dry thoroughly once construction is finished. This process varies in duration depending on the mass structure and surrounding temperature in each individual case.

Doors and valves are open during drying passes. The standard 200 W light bulb, which is suspended in the furnace chamber and kept on until the masonry solution is entirely dried, will aid in hastening the process.

If surface finishes are planned, it is best to put them off for a few months as the fireplace will be used extensively during that time.

Therefore, building a corner fireplace with a single chimineine canal is far simpler than building a model of one of the intricate furnaces. You can therefore proceed to work in a safe manner after carefully reading the instructions and selecting your preferred option. Visit our website to find out which brick is best for your stove.

Lastly, a fascinating project for a small corner fireplace is included at the conclusion of the article;

Video: compact corner fireplace "Annushka"

Afanasyev Evgeny, Chief Editor

The publication’s author September 9, 2015

Yes, of course! This is a succinct summary of the DIY corner fireplace article’s main thesis: We’ll walk you through the process of building your own corner fireplace in this step-by-step tutorial, which will warm and charm your house. Creating a comfortable focal point for relaxation and gatherings can be done with the help of this tutorial, which covers everything from choosing the ideal location to gathering supplies and safely installing the components. Even novices can confidently take on this project with the help of clear instructions and helpful hints, transforming an underutilized corner into a chic and useful addition to your living area."

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