DIY balcony in the country: instructions with a photo

Converting your country home’s balcony into a comfortable haven can be a rewarding and useful project. Whether you picture it as a peaceful reading nook in the afternoon or a sunny spot for coffee in the morning, a DIY balcony can enhance the aesthetic appeal and practicality of your home. We’ll take you step-by-step through the process of making your own outdoor haven in this guide, complete with imaginative photo inspiration.

It’s crucial to think about the layout and function of your balcony before starting construction. Consider your intended use of the area as well as the features that are most essential to you. Would you rather have sleek furniture and a minimalist design, or would you rather have lush greenery spilling from hanging planters? You can customize the project to fit your preferences and requirements by imagining your perfect balcony.

After sketching out the layout of your balcony, it’s time to collect the supplies and equipment you’ll need. You might need decking lumber, screws, nails, paint or stain, outdoor furniture, and decorative accents like cushions or string lights, depending on the size and scope of your project. All you should need to realize your vision is a trip to your neighborhood hardware store or home improvement center.

Now that you have your supplies, it’s time to dig in and get to work! First things first, make sure the balcony area is tidy and clear of clutter. If required, fix any structural problems or paint the walls and floor a new color. Next, start building the balcony’s framework, paying close attention to material measurements and cuts as you work according to your design plans.

Remember to take pictures of every step as you go through the building process. This will not only assist you in monitoring your development, but it can also act as a source of motivation for others starting projects of a similar nature. Go ahead and use your imagination when taking pictures, making sure to get both wide-angle and close-up shots of the completed balcony and detailed details.

Materials Needed	Tools Required
Wooden planks	Hammer
Nails	Saw
Outdoor paint	Measuring tape
Outdoor sealant	Drill
Outdoor screws	Screwdriver

The main methods of building a balcony

Building a balcony with similar technology is possible for structures made of logs or timber. only varies in terms of assistance. One way to create the supports is:

• beam-console method;
• beam-back.

Diagram showing the different types of balconies and how they are built in private homes.

As part of the continuation of internal or external load-bearing walls, the console uneven beams (logs), also known as simply releases, are situated on the lower crowns of logs in the first version. These bars also adorn the house’s facade, among other things.

Another option with the console method is to use the elongated interstory floor beams that protrude by the facade to the desired length as supports beneath the balcony. However, many experts feel that this approach does not adhere to construction standards and requirements because it is possible for moisture to get on the support beams, which will eventually cause the wooden elements to deteriorate.

The balcony serves as their roof and is situated above the veranda or terrace with a beam-box. The construction of suburban wooden cottages is a much more common application for this option.

The French type, when arranged as a window frame to its full height, is the main feature that elevates the internal balcony. That is, right outside the door is this little fenced-in space.

Let’s examine each approach in more detail.

Console method

In order to execute the beam release during construction in this location, it is vital to ascertain the location and height of the loggia when utilizing the balloons-console technology to prepare the project. The other end of the beam ought to be fastened to the house’s capital wall for increased dependability. It should be a hard mount.

Building a balcony on consoles in a private residence.

Beams are typically released at 1.5–2 meters. The beams themselves may be constructed from profiled wood or from a looped log.

It is crucial that the wall and graduation beams combine to form a monolithic structure. Extra support pillars are built if the balcony’s width is greater.

Concurrently, a unique screw mechanism is inserted into the pillars to lower the support element’s height by the structure’s precipitation size.

Wooden or metal slopes are installed to strengthen the console even more. The latter, which is forged, can be used as an extra component of the facade’s design. Use battens to reinforce the fastening of the beams based on the walls.

The consoles, which form the core of the traditional rectangular loggia design, are joined by a single beam, followed by a black flooring installation and a final floor placed on top of it. The remaining floor beams are on Batens, with the outermost ones firmly fastened to the wall’s horizontal frame racks.

A canopy that covers the loggia is either installed independently or continues onto the cottage’s roof.

In the event that the balcony is purely ornamental and measures no wider than one meter, wooden farms may be used as a support. They have unique brackets that fasten them to the wall. However, there is a major disadvantage. With weathering and rust stains showing up in the attachment points, the mount gradually loses its aesthetic appeal.

Raising a balcony on racks

Most suburban cottage owners choose to construct balconies atop racks that lean against the foundation of their terraces or verandas. In this instance, the balcony’s base acts as their roof.

When there is no way to use the floor beneath the loggia’s base or when there is a large width balcony, this method is employed. Naturally, this option will come with higher costs, but there is no restriction on the size of the balcony or the terraces beneath it. A parking lot can be set up beneath a balcony.

A balcony addition to a private residence beam.

Using this technique, support racks can be made of brick, metal, or wood. Usually, they are located on either side or the outside of the loggia. The beam, which is firmly fixed to the wall, serves as the foundation for the interior of the racks.

The following technologies are utilized in the installation of the support racks:

1. Logs are taken a little smaller than required. Initially, bars are placed under them, and after the shrinkage of the house they are removed, thus, aligning the loggia. But, nevertheless, there should be a slope of about 2%so that the water does not stagnate, but fluid freely.
2. The racks are installed on the jacks, and then twisted as necessary.
3. Bars or logs are installed strictly in size, and when the building is shrinked, they are simply sawn.

Material

Durable materials are used in the construction of balconies. Usually, it is made of wood and concrete.

Concrete balcony

An architectural structure of this kind has unique qualities.

• Carrying structures are shed in the wall. The reliability of the structure depends on the thickness of the wall, if it is not very strong, then additional supports are used;
• the balcony departure is at least 1 meter in length;
• If the house is brick, then the base plate is started into the wall over the entire length;
• The upper level of the plate is set 5-8 cm below the alleged mark of the flooring;
• The concrete base must be carefully waterproofed;
• the height of the balcony fences should not be less than 1 m.

Wooden balcony

Concrete usually outperforms in terms of size and dependability, but not in terms of decoration. The balcony has the exterior appearance of a warm wooden house or hut. Wood is a material with a lot of benefits. First of all, the natural wood’s appearance, scent, and feel all contribute to the cozy atmosphere. The tree looks great when paired with various finishing touches.

A wooden balcony device’s features include:

• For the manufacture of supporting structures, beams with a section of 10*20 cm are used;
• The minimum depth of laying beams in the stone facade should not be less than 25 cm;
• The beams are fastened to the walls with bolts or metal corners;
• Vertical racks (boards 4*10 cm) and longitudinal (5*10 cm) are attached to the console;
• the flooring and handrails are installed;
• All elements of wood and metal are processed with oil paint, gratings and handrails are covered with frost -resistant and waterproof varnish.

For any given structure, the distance between the bars of the grates should not be greater than 10–12 cm.

Waterproofing walls

The following techniques can be used to waterproof the walls’ surface on the constructed balcony:

1. Painting. The most common, but expensive option. Protective means are applied to the surface: varnishes with rubber additives that regularly need to be updated.
2. Enough. Such materials can be glued due to the effects of high temperature or self -adhesive. More common material is roofing ground. But, the process of performing work with this material is laborious.
3. Powder. It includes the usual cement mixture to which liquid rubber is added, some types of plaster or tile glue. The disadvantage of this method is low strength and resistance to mechanical damage.
4. Hydrophobizers. Are ready -made mixtures with excellent water -repellent properties that provide protection against high humidity. The disadvantage is rapid destruction from direct sunlight.

This technique is limited to hydraulic interior insulation.

Creating a cozy and energy-efficient home involves focusing on heating and insulation. By properly insulating your house, you can keep warmth in during the winter and cool air in during the summer, leading to significant energy savings and increased comfort. Effective insulation not only helps regulate indoor temperature but also reduces noise and moisture infiltration. Combining insulation with efficient heating systems ensures a comfortable living environment while minimizing energy costs and environmental impact. Whether through installing insulation in walls, roofs, floors, or choosing energy-efficient windows and doors, prioritizing heating and insulation upgrades can enhance your home"s comfort and sustainability for years to come.When it comes to constructing a DIY balcony in your country home, there are several steps to follow for a successful project. Begin by carefully planning the design and layout of your balcony, considering factors such as size, location, and materials. Next, gather all the necessary tools and materials, ensuring you have everything you need before starting construction. Prepare the site by clearing and leveling the ground, then proceed with building the support structure and frame for your balcony. Install the flooring, railings, and any additional features according to your design plan. Throughout the process, refer to detailed instructions and consult with experts if needed. Document your progress with photos to track your work and celebrate your accomplishment once your DIY balcony is complete, providing a relaxing and enjoyable outdoor space for you and your family to enjoy.

We make a black floor

Once the foundation is in place, you should start setting up a rough floor. Previously, apply two layers of roofing material to the support.

Paul is both concrete and wooden. For example, a wooden floor will look better in the frame veranda supported by a wooden beam. Concrete filling works best for brick attachment.

Dark flooring

We create a black wooden floor in this manner:

• We fix the beam of the lower binding on the foundation. We use the right fastener, for example, an anchor. To connect directly to the bars, we pre -make samples in the places of their joints and additionally fasten it with galvanized nails;
• We fasten wooden lags to the lower strapping. We maintain a step at a level of 50 cm – so the floor will definitely not fail. We use the connection option described above;
• We fall asleep the space between the lags of expanded clay;
• We make a flooring from an unspeakable boards or plywood with a thickness of about 50 mm. The elements of the flooring are attached to the lags with galvanized nails or self -tapping screws.

This is how we create a concrete screed:

• We fall asleep the base with a 10-centimeter layer of sand;
• Pour a layer of expanded clay on top;
• We lay the reinforcing grid. For the floor of the veranda, there are enough nets of rods with a diameter of 6-8 mm with cells 25×25 cm;
• Pour concrete.

It is recommended that the screed on the veranda be between 30 and 50 mm thick. To improve filling accuracy and convenience, we can first place the racks-beacons every 2-4 meters apart.

Types of structures

Every balcony, regardless of size or design, must have certain structural components. Among them are:

• the base plate on which the main load is;
• fence (parapet);
• Additional elements (visor, wind screen).

The plate, which can be made of wood or reinforced concrete, is the primary structural component. Only structures made of sturdy materials (stone, brick, reinforced concrete blocks) are eligible for the first option. Any building’s facade can have a wooden slab installed on it because of its slight weight.

Depending on how the plate is fastened to the wall, the balconies can be:

• with a console beam pinched in the wall (the reinforced concrete slab is receded in the wall at the construction stage, and the output of the structure cannot exceed 1 m);
• with a console stove and support on the beams (beams are dumped into the wall, on which a reinforced concrete or wooden plate is placed on top, while the width of the balcony can reach 1.2 m);
• with a stove based on triangular brackets (this option is used when the balcony is attached to the already standing building);
• with a stove on the supports (the attached balcony is based on a column, walls, beams standing near the facade).

The French balcony is included in the category of balconies even though it is really just a lovely window opening fence.

Step 2: Lower strapping and floor

Lower strapping, sometimes known as a lying, is a horizontal framework that shifts the weight of the whole house to the foundation. It is constructed from a 50×150 mm well-dried and cleaned board or a beam with a 100×150 mm section.

Put the strapping and lags

An illustration of the steps involved in installing a head:

1. Laid out on the perimeter of the foundation of the board or bars treated with bio -protective compounds and antipyrens. Cut excess.
2. Mark the points of the location of the bolts, laying the laying on top and slightly hitting with a hammer over each fastener.
3. Drill holes with a powerful drill in places dents. The diameter should be larger.
4. Lay on the foundation insulation – fiberglass tape, laid is installed on top.
5. Score nuts on bolts with washers with a shock gayworte or manually with a wrench.
6. Control the horizontality of the lower strapping with a level or building level. If you need to change the position of the beam, weaken the nut, put wooden wedges and raise it to a new level. The gap is filled with liquid concrete.

The bars are connected "in an" unmarked "or with a radical spike in the corners.

The floor device is the next step after placing the head. They will be used to build wall blocks in the installation of a frame house built on the Canadian Platform. It is more convenient to move on the finished floor rather than continually climbing the ladder if the racks are to be installed sequentially.

Three methods are used to mount the floors in the frame house:

• on the ground;
• by lags;
• according to the finished slab foundation.

Lags are laid out on a tape or pile foundation in a house. In this instance, a ventilated underput forms between the ground and the bottom of the structure. Three methods are used to lay lag:

• resting on the lying and strengthened from the outside with a facade board;
• installed in the grooves cut in the lower strapping;
• Mount the one -to -lanet with metal brackets.

Depending on the space between the supports, a beam with a cross section ranging from 110×60 mm to 220×180 mm is used for the lag. The element should be more powerful the wider the flight path.

Step 50–60 cm when you’re lying. Beams are installed more frequently—after 30 to 40 cm—in locations where large furniture or equipment is installed.

Setting up the floor lag.

The steps involved in installing flooring on lags on metal brackets are as follows:

1. Cut and cut the beams of the desired length.
2. Install them on galvanized brackets, fixed with self -tapping screws or nails.
3. To the lower part of the lag, cranial bars with a cross section of 50×50 mm are nailed.
4. Moisture -resistant plywood or OSP sheets are laid on bars. The flooring will serve as a base for the insulation.

Spacers, which are segments of wood or boards that give the system bending stiffness, are installed when the distance between the lags is greater than 2.5 meters. Nails hold them in place; they are fastened to the tip of the lag naughty.

The span’s width determines which step to lay the spacers in:

• 2.5-3.5 m-1 element;
• 3.5-5.4-2 boards;
• 5.4-7.2-3 spacers;
• more than 7.2 m – from 4 pieces.

Before being laid, all wooden structures are treated with antiseptics and anti-pires. By doing this, the material’s lifespan is increased and it is shielded from fire, insects, and decay.

Insulation and flooring

If we construct a frame house, one of the primary responsibilities is to consistently heat every surface.

Up to 10-15% of heat is lost through floors and basements, so the thermal insulation of buildings needs to be given extra attention.

Wood floors are warmed by the following materials:

• granular – expanded clay, slag, vermiculite;
• Rolled – stone, glass, slag, polyethylene, cork;
• slabs made of mineral wool, polystyrene foam, chipboard;
• liquid – polyurethane foam, ecowata.

It is not advised to use polystyrene foam for insulation purposes on wooden floors. It releases a gas that is harmful to humans when heated.

The flooring is covered in two layers of dense film waterproofing, spaced 10 to 15 centimeters apart. The thickness of granular, slab, or roll insulation is applied in accordance with the heat engineering computation for the specific climate of a given area. For mineral wool, this is typically 10–20 cm, and for expanded clay, it’s 30 cm.

Mineral wool flooring used for insulation in a frame home.

A vapor barrier membrane is placed on top of the materials, allowing moisture to escape into space through its pores. A stapler is used to fix the film. The purpose of the counterattacks is to overload the lags and open a ventilation gap.

Vapor barrier with opening for ventilation.

On counterattacks, the soundproof finish coating is installed.

When laying foil materials for insulation, they face the interior of the space. Thus, the room will reflect infrared light.

Balcony designs in a private house: a balcony above the porch or another extension

Every balcony design must have certain components.

• Balcony plate;
• Fence or parapet;
• Protective elements in the form of a visor and wind screens (not compulsory, but desirable elements).

The primary component of the structure, the balcony slab, is typically composed of either wood or reinforced concrete.

A wooden balcony can be installed on a building made of practically any material because of how easily it can be designed.

The following fundamental structural types of balconies are utilized for private homes; they vary in how the balcony slab is fastened to the building’s wall:

1. A balcony with a console stove pinched in the wall. In the manufacture of such a balcony, the reinforced concrete plate is sealed into the wall to a certain width, while the departure of the plate (and, accordingly, the width of the balcony) cannot exceed 100 cm.
2. A balcony with a console plate with a support for beams. In this case, not a stove is pinched into the wall of the building, but a beam from reinforced concrete, on top of which a balcony plate is laid, which can be made from reinforced concrete and from wood. Thanks to the beam support, the width of such a balcony can be up to 120 cm.
3. A balcony with a stove resting on triangular brackets. This design can be used in the case when the house has already been built and the hosts decided to get a balcony already during the operation of the building. In this case, a frame is driven into the wall of the building, on which a balcony plate is laid, which can be either wooden and reinforced concrete. Metal or wooden triangular brackets are used as supporting elements for the plate. A similar design allows you to mount balconies up to 150 cm wide.
4. Balcony with a stove standing on the supports. In this case, the balcony plate is based on columns, walls, etc.P. In this case, the width and shape of the balcony are limited only by the imagination of the designer and the cost of structural materials. On the supports, the attached balcony can also be made, when the supporting elements are not connected to the construction of the house and are attached separately. Such a balcony can also be attached to the already finished house.

A balcony above the porch could be one of the options for the balcony on the supports. It is possible to optimize construction with certain features of the building. If the house’s facade has protruding structures (like a porch, terrace, garage, bay window, etc.) that call for a roof device, then this roof can act as a balcony plate and the amount of space needed for the balcony’s construction will be greatly reduced.

Trump or roof over the balcony: which is better

Although it is not required, having a roof over the balcony improves the usability of the space considerably by providing protection from atmospheric precipitation. Additionally, a visor helps to preserve the plate and protective fences from deterioration due to sedimentation and aging.

To avoid rain and snow delays, the roof should slope and slightly overlap the balcony plate’s width.

Screed its manufacture and features

When considering what to use for the balcony’s flooring, it is important to remember that making the screed yourself is not only a cost-effective choice but also not too difficult. But there’s also the other side of the medal to this easy method:

1. The screed significantly increases the height of the floor on the balcony (approximately 10-15 cm), which of course gives an additional load on its base-that is, the plate. If the house is very old, the balcony can simply collapse.
2. Paul from concrete is considered the coldest. Of course, it can be insulated (for example, polystyrene), but this will help little, thermal insulation still leaves the floor cool.

Should the aforementioned situations not frighten you, it would be worthwhile to go over step-by-step guidelines on how to construct the balcony’s floor using your own hands.

The degree of insulation on the loggia directly affects how cozy it is.

DIY screed technology

The floor is first made ready for installation. You should start by carefully sealing off any cracks that you have found. They are typically found where the base of the plate and the wall next to it meet.

You can complete this preparatory step with the aid of standard mounting foam or acrylic sealant. Once every gap has been revealed, you can move on to the floor plan.

An essential step in the device and floor installation process on the balcony is the cracking of cracks.

Waterproofing

Installing a waterproofing film is necessary to prevent excess moisture from your screed from seeping into the neighboring properties when you pour a solution.

The balcony floor won’t require any additional work to be waterproofed. Simply place a thick polyethylene sheet in the shape of a tidy "trough" with great care.

Crucial! Overlap the film so that about 20 centimeters are on the walls. Following the process of carefully cutting off the polyethylene’s edges. Covering a balcony with a polyethylene covering

Covering a balcony with a polyethylene covering

Reinforcement process

In essence, three-millimeter wire is used to create a steel grid for this. 100 × 100 or 50 × 50 millimeters can be the size of a cell in the reinforcing mesh.

The workflow is very straightforward:

• All visible pollution and other garbage are removed from the surface;
• The first row of the grid is carefully laid on the insulation, tightly pressed;
• The overlap 1-2 cells is placed the second row.

The screed’s strength and service life are greatly extended by the reinforcement grid.

Lighthouses

In the construction industry, lightakers are referred to as unique guides, or landmarks, that when followed, allow you to level the applied coating to an immaculately smooth surface. You need these little pieces of equipment to create the screed-like balcony floor.

The height of the threshold in interior block doors determines which plane lighthouses are installed in. Furthermore, each beacon must be precisely positioned horizontally.

The floor’s draft surface and the lighthouse’s upper face should be the same height.

Crucial! The beacons must be firmly fixed to ensure that they do not move while leveling the screed. It is best to use cement mortar or construction gypsum for their strong fixation. Lighthouses are installed for screed using a thick cement mortar.

Lighthouses are installed for screed using a thick cement mortar.

Fill the screed

Once all of these preparatory steps are completed, you can mix a sand and cement solution (four parts sand to one part cement). The completed mixture is carefully aligned with the rule and poured neatly between pre-established beacons.

The rule must be leaned on two beacons and moved slowly and gently in order to level the floor.

To impede the drying process, a polyethylene sheet is placed over the screed once the concrete work is finished. If you ignore this, it may crack during the solidification process.

Additionally, the screed must be at least fifty millimeters thick when placed on foam or another type of insulation. If not, gravity will cause the balcony’s floor to crack at the base due to weight from furniture, for example.

The floor should be perfectly level if everyone follows the leadership’s instructions for setting up a concrete screed.

Wooden balcony in a frame house

We’ll work out all the technical details so you can use your hands to construct a wooden balcony in a frame home. The main frame, floor, canopy, and protective fence make up the balcony’s construction. Support racks and remote beams hold up a wooden balcony.

Think about the following choices for adding balconies to a frame home:

During the construction of the balcony, for the base of the frame, floor beams are used, which are produced beyond the plane of the wall. Wooden beams with a cross section of 150 by 150 mm will be enough for a platform about two meters wide. The remote beams must be rigidly fixed in the wall, and they will form a single monolithic structure with it, which will not assume any repair work in the future, and will not need to control the shrinkage of the house. The ends of the bars are connected by a special crossbar, which will serve for the device of the final sex. The bearing capacity of the balcony can be increased by installing wooden strings according to the type of triangle, resting with one leg on mortgage parts in the wall.

An autonomous design of a wooden balcony on supporting racks is used when it is not possible to use all the components and details of the overlap as a base or a remote site. There is no restriction on dimensions, and space is created for a frame house with a terrace and a home or car parking lot. However, this structure will come with additional financial costs. Support columns can also be made of metal, silicate brick, or reinforced concrete in addition to wood. Based on a wooden beam fixed along the wall, the racks are positioned on both sides of the balcony or beneath its outside edge, the inside.

The flooring of the balcony

The columns of a wooden balcony are connected by a transverse beam laid on them from above, and located somewhat below the wall beam. The resulting slope in about 2 ° will provide you with the drain of all the water from the wall. Between the beams of the wooden frame, lags are installed with a step of 70 cm, which are recorded by special galvanized corners on the beam. The finished coating is released from strict wooden boards (50 mm thickness), screwing all the details and elements on the sides of hidden fasteners with a gap of 7 mm. The best material for the floor on a wooden balcony will be a terrace board with a special corrugated surface released from deciduous wood or wood-polymer composite.

The fence of the balcony

The balcony railing’s height shouldn’t be any lower than 120 cm. Gather a railing from blanks of chiseled or carved wood. Fence racks are fastened to the load-bearing portions of the wooden frame with bilateral hairpins, brackets, and the "Ship-Paz" connection. Installing intermediate balusters is standard procedure for longer wooden balconies.

A canopy device

There are two primary types of roofs for wooden balconies:

• The total roof with the house, for this, simply lengthen the line of the skate or the rafter legs are extended.
• A canopy independent of the main roof, based on a load -bearing wall through special supports or on pillars around the entire external perimeter of a wooden balcony.

However, using a lightweight structure covered in plastic, fabric, or polycarbonate will be the easiest and most efficient solution.

Wood protection

It is standard practice to coat all wooden balcony components and elements with specialized paints and impregnations that are resistant to burnout and temperature changes outside. The following procedures are used in a complex manner to achieve high-quality and dependable wood processing: priming, impregnation, and painting.

Depending on the final construction dimensions, the overall design complexity, and the particulars of the building materials, installing a frame balcony by hand involves significant physical labor and financial outlays. However, you should make a concerted effort to create a more comfortable space for your work in the fresh air and relaxation for your own comfort.

Adding a DIY balcony to your country house can be a fun project that enhances the look and feel of your outdoor area. A well-designed balcony can improve your entire living space, from having evening get-togethers with friends and family to sipping coffee in the morning while taking in the scenery.

We’ve gone over every step of designing, constructing, and furnishing your DIY balcony in this guide. You’ve already established the groundwork for a successful project by carefully assessing your available space and financial constraints, then choosing the appropriate supplies and equipment. You can guarantee the longevity of your balcony and the safety of those who use it by following safety precautions and local laws.

There are plenty of design options to fit every taste and preference, as you can see in the photos that go with this article. Whether your style is a lush green oasis or a minimalist retreat, the important thing is to customize your balcony to fit your own requirements and tastes. Try different furniture configurations, potted plants, and accent pieces to make the room feel cozy and welcoming.

Recall that the process of creating a DIY balcony doesn’t finish with construction. Its beauty and functionality must be preserved over time with regular maintenance and care. By dedicating time and energy to maintenance, you can make sure that your balcony is a treasured part of your house for many years to come. This includes checking the structure for any indications of wear and tear and cleaning and refinishing surfaces as needed.

In summary, creating a DIY balcony for your country house is an enjoyable project that lets you express your creativity and improves your outdoor living area. You may build a balcony that not only increases the value of your home but also improves your quality of life by following the instructions in this guide and adding your unique style.

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