Direk Direct Kollander”s stove with your own hands

Do you want to warm your house in an economical and sustainable manner? A growingly popular solution is to construct your own Direk Direct Kollander stove. This do-it-yourself project gives you a sense of accomplishment as you build a working heating system for your home in addition to warmth.

One kind of wood-burning stove that is renowned for its effectiveness and ease of use is the Direk Direct Kollander’s stove. Unlike conventional stoves, it doesn’t need a chimney or intricate ductwork. Rather, it makes use of an ingenious design that reduces smoke emissions while maximizing heat transfer.

Constructing your own Direk Direct Kollander stove is an enjoyable project that can ultimately result in lower heating costs. Utilizing wood’s potential as a renewable energy source can help you become less dependent on fossil fuels and lessen your carbon footprint.

The Direk Direct Kollander stove is not only useful, but it can also give your house a hint of rustic charm. Its understated yet tasteful design makes it a showpiece in any space and offers pleasant warmth in the winter.

The general device of the Call furniture

The traditional Dutch stove has a rectangular shape, a single brick wall, and long chimney channels built over the firebox. It is solely for heating purposes. Due to the fact that hot smoke warms the bricks of internal channels and is already considerably chilled when it enters the chimney, it warms up nicely with little fuel consumption. These stoves had tile linings at first.

Thus, the traditional Dutch stoves—which lack a grate and blower—look at the end. Any furnace of this kind is unique in that the smoke channels are present in the upper portion.

The yield of the smoke channel is on the side of the same classic Dutchwoman. The Dutch paid taxes on smoke, so multiple furnaces were moved to the common pipe. Furthermore, there are no issues with smoking in less-traveled furnaces; however, even in the event of a reverse traction, blowing long smoke channels is difficult.

This is the appearance of contemporary Hollanders, dotted with tiles (tile prototype)

All this, and even the plasticity of the structure, led to the fact that there were many forms of chollands furnaces: in addition to traditional rectangular and square, there are triangular, trapezoid and round. No less than use options: purely unit, heating-welding, with a lounger, one, two or three floors, with a fireplace, a capacity for heating water and with a tank for water heating. It is not surprising that this design is popular. Moreover, everything is so simple that the Dutchman with their own hands can be one who at least once put a brick wall with a dressing. If you are planning to try your hand as a stove, choose the Chollanders and get to work.

You could read about the sequesty with interest.

Advantages and disadvantages

Let’s begin with the positives:

• A little material is required to masonry the-Gollanders-about two times less than on a similar Russian stove. The consequence is a small weight that can withstand almost all types of overlap without any problems.
• Its design is such that it can be “adjusted” to the required dimensions, not particularly afraid of a significant deterioration in indicators. Minimum Dutch size – 50*50 cm.
• It is not demanding on the quality of materials: the margin of safety and the design are such that the-Cello stoves are not afraid of possible thermal deformations. It is advisable to use high-quality chamotis brick for laying the furnace, for the case you can take any more or less normal, full-bodied ceramic.
• Plasticity of the structure: you can embed a hot water tank, oven in the area of the smoke channels.
• Channels above the firebox can be pulled on several floors: two or even three floors – not a problem.
• After a long downtime, the Dutchwoman, she does not need to slowly warm her. You can immediately heat up for warming up the premises: there will be no cracks. Moreover, it heats up quickly, and cools (if you do not forget to close the damper) slowly.

• Demanding on fuel quality. In the sense that it is necessary to drown with firewood or coal, and not with broken fuel or garbage. It is optimal precisely in smoldering, not combustion, and with a furnace with sawdust, brushwood or straw smolder nothing.
• If you forget to close the breaks after the clan, it gets out very quickly: heat it through the channels.
• Low efficiency – about 40%.
• Since the brick goes to it a little, the heat capacity is also small. Therefore, to maintain a stable temperature, it must be drowned at least twice a day. Moreover, it cannot be flooded: it may even go a carbon monoxide.
• If you use wet -quality fuel wet, channels quickly overgrown with soot, they often have to be cleaned.

As you can see, the operational features are directly related to the main drawbacks. The Cello is a great heating tool when everything is used properly.

Additionally, a Galanka heating stove in the metropolitan wards is a marvel.

Gollandy’s order

As previously mentioned, the completed furnace projects that are available can be changed to be wider, lower, higher, or already. There won’t be any issues if you do not make very serious mistakes. Several diagrams and dashing of stoves of various kinds and sizes are provided below.

Small stove for giving

The circumference of this tiny stove is just over 50 centimeters. It can efficiently heat a few small rooms at once. Ceramic brick can be used for masonry. Use Shamolet Refractory brand Sha-8 for furnace layout, if at all possible (rows from 3 or at least 5 to 13).

Purchasing a compact stone-chill stove will make it easier for you to fold it with your hands. (To view the image larger, use the right mouse button.)

Make the furnace’s foundation arrangements before beginning any masonry. It should be nonsensical: avoid having any points of contact with the building’s main foundation. The incident occurs at the same depth as the primary one and is 15-20 cm wider than the intended oven’s dimensions. Here, 70 by 70 cm is sufficient. A thoroughly trimmed cement-sandy slurry is poured down the foundation pit. After that, a black screed is applied, followed by an insulating layer, and the reinforced concrete slab remains reinforced.

It takes four to five days for the concrete to reach half its strength, at which point you can begin the Dutch stove’s masonry with your hands. It is only necessary to apply two layers of waterproofing (using pergamine or more contemporary roller materials) initially.

Short justifications for this furnace’s order:

• The first two rows are solid. It is very important to accurately observe the geometry: the corners should be exactly 90 °, the diagonals are equal, the bricks lie exactly on the horizon. (check with a good building level).
• In the third row, the door of the blowing is installed, in the fifth it is blocked. In this row, bricks are cut so that the grate rests on them. The dimensions of the "bed" should be approximately 5 mm larger than the grates. The interval between the grille and the brick can be laid asbestos cord. So that it does not clog the solution, lay the packaging corrugated cardboard on top. At the first traction he will burn out, and asbest will remain clean.
• In the sixth row, a door is installed for loading fuel, in the eighth a metal strip of 5 mm thick is laid, about 50 mm wide, and the length of 5 cm larger on both sides than the size of the firebox. A brick that overlaps the door will be installed on this strip in the next row.
• In the rest of the rows, the formation of a chimney – channels along which hot gases from the furnace will pass, and which, in fact, will be heated by the rooms.
• In the sixteenth row, two steel corners will need to be laid with a thickness of steel at least 3-4 mm, the size of the corner is 50*50 mm. Part of the masonry of the smoke -turn channels will be held on them.
• Next, everything is in order. In the twenty -ninth row, it will be necessary to file bricks under the installation of a valve. (Vyushki).

Dutch stove with a stove

"Galaka" is typically used as a heating furnace because hob options are limited. However, you can locate them. A scheme for the order of such a furnace, for instance, is shown below (you can click on the picture to enlarge it; use the right mouse key).

Gollanders with a stove (click on the picture with the right mouse button to make it larger)

This plate isn’t very controversial, so it’s best to reheat anything you brought. See the diagram below if you require a furnace-Dutch-welding stove for cooking and heating. Both the oven door and the burner are on the side of this stove.

Masonry plan and materials for the Golic furnace, which includes an oven and stove (use the right key to enlarge the image).

There are no material requirements for any Galanka, and this one is no different: a full-bodied ceramic (red) brick can be used. A clay-sand solution is used for masonry. Sha-sha-8 ball bricks can (but are not required to) be used to lay out the furnace area (7–10 rows), and only in this zone can you use a unique high-temperature composition (available in stores). A grate, a single-end hob, and two steel corners—whose thickness is between 3 and 4 mm, their dimensions are 50 by 50 mm, and their valley extends beyond the hob by 5 cm on both sides—are also required.

Gollanders’" Office featuring an oven and stove (use the right mouse button to enlarge the image).

This furnace has a straightforward order, but there are a few things to clarify:

• The first three rows are laid in continuous. It is still important to maintain the correct geometry here. Control the verticality of the walls and corners in each row throughout the construction. Use a plumb line and level (one level is not enough, it gives a large error).
• In the 4th row, a blower door is installed, in the 6th it is blocked with bricks sawn along the brick. In the same sixth row, bricks are worked out for the installation of a grate.
• In the 7th row, the door of the furnace is installed, until the ninth inclusive it is formed.
• In the tenth row, the door of the furnace is overlapped, bricks are worked out – they cut out the notes under the installation of the stove. Like grates, under the plate, the seizure should be larger than the size of 5 mm. This gap will allow the metal to expand, and the brick will not suffer from this expansion. The gap is laid with an asbestos cord, which is hidden on top of a corrugated paper cardboard. With a furnace, the cardboard will burn out, and asbest will remain clean and will fulfill its function: to compensate for the expansion of the metal. Having laid the stove, its edge is covered with a metal corner. He will protect bricks from damage.
• In the 11-14 row, the formation of the zone above the stove is being formed. In the 14th row, a second corner is laid-exactly over the first. Bricks covering the zone over the stove rest on this corner.
• In the 16th row, a treatment door and bricks are installed, which will serve as a support to the oven cabinet. He is put on these bricks.

Additionally, it is simpler to build a cabinet and a food door yourself or to order them in the necessary sizes. Door: a corner frame that holds a small steel door in place. You can place a piece of brick on the solution from the back of the door to prevent it from overheating.

• In the 18th row, the treatment door is overlapped.
• In the 21st, you can install metal strips on which the camera overlap over the oven will be based.
• In the 23rd row, a valve is installed on the smoke channel (bricks are fired under it).
• The 24th row in size is larger than all the others-bricks enter the perimeter of 3 cm, the 25th has already normal sizes.
• In the twenty -sixth row, the formation of a chimney begins.

Heater oven furnace (Trekhborotnaya)

This Dutch heating furnace is laid using a red, full-bodied ceramic brick. Chamot (Sha-8) is used to layout the furnace area; double hatching on the diagram indicates this. On a clay solution, masonry is done.

Sketching a Dutch stove. This stove only has three assembly steps for heating. It is compact and tall, taking up little room.

In centimeters, this furnace measures two to three bricks, or 77 by 51 cm with a height of 230 cm. The number of rows forming the smoke circuit channels can be increased or decreased to adjust the height if needed.

Dutch stove Trekholec

Everything is clear in the first half of the orderly stove masonry scheme. Please take note that chamot is responsible for the masonry work on the 4th, 11-1 row, and a portion of the 12th. It is possible (though not required) to use a specific furnace solution when laying these rows. Sand and clay are used for the remaining rows. It requires high temperatures for sintering, so using a heat-resistant solution in other rows will cause it to pour out.

Maybe some explanations about the tenth and fifteenth rows are needed. The bricks are sliced at a 45-degree angle from the bottom at this point, narrowing the firebox (the bricks are shaved in length on the diagram). A new chimoling channel is positioned under a steel strip that is 5 mm thick, 50 mm wide, and 32–33 cm long in the fifteenth row.

Gollander heating system for masonry

It is important to pay attention to ranks 31, 32, and 33 in this section of the order. They have larger measurements; for example, the bricks in the 31st row are 3 cm taller than the preceding row. The 33rd has a decrease of 3 cm on each side, while the 32nd has the same increase of 3 cm. The treatment door is installed in row 34 and is blocked in row 36. The next three rows are all extremely small in size. The expansion that allows for passage through the ceiling overlap is formed next.

Dutch stove round in a metal casing

A German-born heating engineer named Utenmark created this variant of the Dutch stove in Russia at the start of the 20th century. The design was dubbed "dull marting" because it is so unique. It typically consists of a metal cover with a single row of bricks placed inside. Although cheap, the stove is inefficient. Additionally, it used to be extensively utilized in facilities like hospitals, shelters, and T.P. where funding for the heating device was scarce.

Even though it looks simple, installing this furnace is actually much more difficult and calls for advanced skills. Thus, we do not advise laying a round Dutch in a metal casing as a first experience. However, we are publishing this Dutchwoman’s and her order’s masonry scheme below.

Dutch clothing circuit

Guidelines of Gollanders-Utteznikovka (To make the image larger, use the right mouse button to click on it.)

Guidelines of Gollanders-Utteznikovka (To make the image larger, use the right mouse button to click on it.)

DIY bake

The Dutch woman is significantly better than the typical Russian stove; it stands out for having a small size, a high heating speed, convenience, efficiency, and ergonomics. This makes the Dutchman’s oven perfect for a bathhouse or a country home. You can manually lay out this design, but you will need to follow the production instructions.

Homemade baked goods

Design features

No matter how the Dutchman is modified, it still has three basic components: a chimney, a furnace chamber, and a device to control the smoke’s speed. It is noteworthy to mention, among other qualities:

• lack of grates;
• the presence of six chimney channels;
• Small size, as a result of which the stove will fit perfectly into any interior;
• The shape of the structure can be different – from round to rectangular (only the fuel remains unchanged);
• Thin walls (with a thickness of one brick) allow minimizing the amount of fuel required for full heating;
• lack of blowing under the fuel;
• Lack of cast iron hob for cooking.

Take note! The Dutch one’s lone disadvantage is its low fuel combustion intensity, which results from the lack of a grate and blowing mechanism. In this instance, insufficient oxygen enters the furnace through the door to support intense burning.

DIY bake

After addressing the advantages and disadvantages of the Dutch, you can move on to the production process.

Handmade Baking Direk, Graduate

Stage 1. Preparation of equipment and consumables

The following supplies are required to assemble the structure:

• chamotum brick (minimum 200 pcs.);
• clay (about 0.5 cubic meters);
• river sand, necessarily sifted;
• The door for the fuel;
• fine crushed stone;
• roofing material;
• Steel wire.

Additionally, you must get ready the following equipment:

• roulette;
• shovel;
• mounting level;
• clay reservoir;
• Master OK.

Take note! Like any other design of this kind, the Dutch will need the basis.

Setting up the tools and supplies

Stage 2. Building the foundation

First of all, it is important to remember that the constructed foundation shouldn’t be attached to the house’s main foundation from a constructive standpoint. The following should be further consistent actions.

Foundation for a brick stove

It is first necessary to sketch out the future foundation’s shape. It is crucial that the base’s width and depth be 8–10 cm greater than the intended oven’s measurements. Simultaneously, you should confirm that the foundation is at the same location as the chimney pipe sump.

When the pit of the matching dimensions opens up, it should be about 60 centimeters deep.

A crushed stone "pillow" measuring fifteen centimeters covers the bottom of the pit. After the crushed stone has been well leveled, the mounting level is used to align its surface.

The formwork for the furnace’s foundation must then be constructed. Wood, chipboard, and even thick cardboard can be used for this.

Take note! Any other waterproofing material can be used, but roofing material needs to be sheathed from the inside if the material used to construct the formwork absorbs moisture.

One kneads a concrete solution. For this, sand and dry cement are combined in a ratio of one to three, then the necessary amount of water is poured on top. The mixture of the solution is complete.

It is necessary to pour a solution into the formwork and wait for it to completely dry. This usually takes no more than a week.

Stage 3. Preparation of the solution

The raw materials are first made ready. It is best to do this a few days prior to the commencement of construction. Sifted clay is free of big lumps and stones. It is typical that multiple iterations of this process are required.

Take note! You can use a grid from the Soviet-style Soviet bed as a sieve for sorting clay. The grid is configured to encompass (roughly 45ᵒ) on any supported surface.

The clay should then be covered with water and allowed to soak for a minimum of two to three hours. Ensuring full absorption of the water is crucial. Its apparent excesses need to be drained right away.

After the clay has swelled, it should be combined in equal parts with sand and a small amount of additional water (no more than 1/8 of the volume).

Stage 4. Masonry

Take note! Every brick should be submerged in water for ten seconds prior to laying. This is required to prevent the bricks from absorbing clay-derived moisture.

First, two layers of roofing material are applied to the structure’s base. After that, a layer of river sand five centimeters thick is added. Sand alignment and horizontality check completed. then gave it a quick mist with some water.

After the preparatory work is finished, you can start working on the masonry.

Row No.1: There is no solution in this first row, which is placed "dry." Twelve bricks are needed for this; they are arranged, examined by an assembly level, and then lightly covered with solution.

Bricks lay flat on Row No. 2.3, this time on the solution (they must then be arranged "on the rib" up to the upper portion of the firebox).

Shamot bricks, frequently yellow, are used in Row No. 4.5. The lining for the chimney channel’s partition is created concurrently. The "high-profile" brick that is laid down "dry" forms the foundation of the rear wall.

Take note! To, the solution is not required. To always clean the chimney of soot, this brick will be taken out. Of course, an extra door on the back wall is an option as well, but in this scenario the heat will escape the building quickly.

You also need to install a fuel door at this point. It is best to cover it with asbestos, but as of late, asbestos has become very hard to come by. You can also use any other non-combustible material as a substitute. A steel wire is used to secure the door by being inserted into the joints of the masonry.

Row No. 6.7. This is where everything is done exactly like it is in the fourth row. In this instance, however, everything hinges on the height of the future structure. The order may vary even before the top of the door. Bricks are once more laid out flat at the end of the door strapping (this usually happens when laying the seventh row). The dressing is continuously regulated, and the furnace’s horizontal and corner locations are routinely examined.

Take note! The brick fits flat in the seventh row, and the rear wall stays "on the rib." Bricklaying technique only varies from the eighth row onward.

Row Eighth. The furnace chamber is positioned above a beveled brick, which is where it varies. By using this trick, the firebox can be opened and the stove can be used as a fireplace. The furnace is entirely covered by this row.

Row Number 9. The brick retreats (by about half its width). If the design allows, a non-combustible material (such as an asbestos cord) is placed on top of the ninth row, and this is where the hob is installed.

Laying a very good hob.

Tenth row. The chimney pipe’s base is then constructed. It is preferable to use a metal pipe for the chimney in a Dutchman that can be easily modified, as the brick structure will be too heavy.

No. 11 Row. At this point, an asbestos-sealed valve has been invested. The junction between the building and the chimney pipe forms in parallel. It is customary to use ¼ brick for the masonry work in this area.

Take note! Beginners are advised to fold the brick furnace without using the solution first in order to avoid common mistakes. Only after that, if everything is okay, should they re-shift it.

This post will explore the realm of do-it-yourself projects, specifically constructing a homemade Direk Direct Kollander stove for home insulation and heating. For individuals looking for environmentally friendly heating solutions, this practical and economical stove design provides an answer. Building your own stove gives you the satisfaction of making a useful addition to your house while also saving money. We’ll go over the procedures, supplies needed, and advantages of adding one of these stoves to your home. Regardless of your desire to lower energy costs or just relish the comfort of a homemade stove, this guide will assist you in beginning your journey towards DIY heating.

Final events

1. After the laying is completed on the furnace, a chimney is installed. The gap formed between the floor and the structure is closed by the pre-heet sheet, otherwise sand will be poured from under the furnace.

For the finishing of the furnace, you can use glazed tiles, but staining, whitewashing is also suitable, and if desired, you can completely leave everything as it is. All joints with the floor surface are closed with special skirting boards.

After masonry, the Dutchman should dry at least two weeks, the fuel door remains open. It is forbidden to make fire earlier than this period.

In two weeks, traction is checked – for this, a small amount of paper is burned in the furnace chamber.

How to fight condensate

• pre -dry the firewood;
• increase combustion temperature;
• From time to time to burn the structure to "red potassium".

Such detrimental elements cannot be eliminated, but they can be diminished.

1. The assembly of the chimney must be carried out against the movement of gases – so most of them will be burned.
2. The chimney should quickly be dismantled if necessary. To do this, it is connected by self -tapping screws.
3. You can experimentally with various combustion modes, choose the optimum temperature. For a visual assessment of fuel combustion, you need to inspect the furnace chamber after cooling. If stalactites have formed, then you need to increase the temperature.

Video – Drylander"s stove

DIY bake

More than 200 years ago, Russian stoves mastered the masonry Dutchwoman’s technology. Over this period, the stove has proven to be a dependable, cost-effective, and efficient heating appliance. The Dutch woman has an incredibly straightforward design at the same time. After reviewing the accompanying guide, you are able to organize it independently. homemade baked goods

Features of the design of the Dutch stove

The Dutch use ceramic full-bodied brick for masonry. The furnace’s design comprises the subsequent primary structural components:

• ash;
• furnaces;
• smoke circuits;
• compartment;
• chimney;
• gate valves for regulating traction intensity.

• lack of grate;
• The presence of channels for the passage of smoke. They are settled over each other. Such an arrangement allows you to achieve consistent circulation of the formed flue gases and the maximum heating efficiency;
• The furnace can have a round, rectangular or even complex curved shape, but the fuel always remains rectangular;
• There is no blow under the firebox;
• The hob is usually not installed.

Brick is typically used to lay out Dutch walls. As a result, the final design weighs relatively little, which makes the requirements for the foundation and the basis as a whole simpler.

Oven Gollande for heating

The stove’s small size makes it suitable for practically any interior.

Set for work

1. Ordinary ceramic brick.
2. Refractory brick.

Construction clay.

Water.

River sand.

Piluled and furnace doors.

Steel flexible wire.

Asbestos cord.

Wash doors.

Grounds.

Steel strip 0.5 cm thick and 5 cm wide.

The arrangement of the foundation

Despite the weight relatively small as a brick furnace, the Dutch woman still needs a high -quality and reliable basis. A great option is a monolithic slab. An important nuance: the foundation should be reinforced both in area and in volume, t.e. deeper. The dimensions of this base should be at least 1.2×1.2 m. The foundation of the Dutch cannot be associated with the base of the main structure. How to make a foundation The foundation for the brick stove procedure for working on the arrangement of the foundation is the following. First step. We plan the boundaries of the equipped base. The second step. Rummage the pit of about 60 cm deep. Foundation pit for casting the foundation third step. We fall asleep the bottom of the pit with a 15-cm layer of gravel. Thoroughly level and compact the backfill. The fourth step. We lay a grid of reinforcing rods. The recommended size of the cells of such a grid is 100-120 mm. Pit for the foundation with formwork and reinforcement fifth step. In places of intersection of rods, we install vertical reinforcement. We connect all the joints of the elements of the supporting system with wire. Sixth step. Install the formwork for filling the foundation. We cover each wall of the formwork with roofing material or processed with resin for waterproofing. Seventh step. Pour concrete. The eighth step. We produce "ironing" of the surface of the base. To do this, sprinkle the filling with a small amount of dry cement. Let the foundation gain strength. It is better to leave it for a month, but many masters are starting to masonry in a week. At this moment, the decision is for you.

Materials Needed	Step-by-Step Instructions
Bricks, Mortar, Metal grate, Stovepipe	1. Lay out bricks in a square shape, leaving a gap for the door. 2. Stack bricks to create the walls and chimney. 3. Place metal grate inside for burning wood. 4. Connect stovepipe to chimney. 5. Test for proper ventilation and safety.

Constructing a DIY Direk Direct Kollander stove can be a satisfying and economical way to heat your house. With a little bit of planning and straightforward directions, you can make a dependable source of heat that can cut your heating costs in half.

The efficiency of this stove’s construction is one of its biggest benefits. Because of the design’s capacity for maximum heat retention, the fire’s energy is efficiently used to heat your living area. By reducing energy waste, this efficiency enhances not only your comfort but also promotes a more sustainable way of living.

Additionally, creating the Direk Direct Kollander stove allows for customization and inventiveness. Although the fundamental framework is unchanged, you can modify it to fit your requirements and tastes. This project allows for individual expression, whether you decide to add distinctive decorative elements or adjust the dimensions to fit your space.

The feeling of achievement that one gets from finishing a project of this nature is another important feature. There’s a certain satisfaction in knowing that you built the stove yourself, and that it will successfully heat your home. In addition to developing practical skills, this hands-on experience strengthens your bond with your home.

In conclusion, for homeowners looking for cost-effective heating options, building a Direk Direct Kollander stove offers a useful and rewarding opportunity. This is an inexpensive, do-it-yourself project with a customizable design that does much more than just provide warmth. By taking on this project, you not only make your house more comfortable but also set out on a creative, sustainable, and independent journey.

Video on the topic

Bake 3.5 to 3.5 bricks with a hob with your own hands | Okryadovka | 3D model /31