Connection of heating radiators of the strainer of the installation of batteries

An effective heating system is essential for keeping your house warm and comfortable during the winter. The connection between the central heating system and the heating radiators is a crucial part of this system. Installing strainer valves is a crucial step in this process because they guarantee the radiators’ correct operation and the heating system’s overall efficiency.

The appliances in charge of distributing heat throughout your house are heating radiators. All radiators, whether they are contemporary panel radiators or classic cast iron radiators, need to be connected to the central heating system in order to function properly. Installed within this connection, the strainer—also called a filter or a valve—is designed to catch any particles or contaminants in the water that passes through the system.

There are several reasons to install strainers on heating radiator connections. First of all, they stop dirt, rust, and scale from getting into the heating system. Over time, this debris may build up and harm other parts of the radiators as well as cause blockages. Strainers contribute to the longevity and efficiency of the entire heating system by capturing these particles.

Furthermore, strainers guarantee a steady stream of clean water, which helps individual radiators operate smoothly. Unchecked debris entry into the system can cause uneven heating, decreased performance, and increased energy consumption. Installing strainers greatly lowers the chance of these problems, which improves heat distribution and lowers energy costs.

What needs to be taken into account when choosing radiator strapping schemes?

How the heating radiator works

Most heating radiators have a fairly straightforward hydraulic structure that is easy to understand. The coolant travels through these two horizontal collectors, which are connected by vertical channels. The entire system is either "dressed" in a unique casing that maximizes the area of air contact, as in the case of bimetallic radiators, or it is composed of metal that can transfer high temperatures as needed (the power of the cast-iron radiator section serves as a striking example).

A very basic schematic of the component found in the majority of heating radiators

1 is the upper manifold.

2 is the bottom manifold;

3-the radiator’s sections have vertical channels;

4- The radiator’s heat-rated casing, or case.

On the diagrams of the upper pair B1-B2 and the lower pair B3-B4, respectively, both collectors—upper and lower—have outputs. It is evident that only two of the four outputs are linked when the radiator is connected to the heating circuit pipes; the other two are jamming. The efficiency of the installed battery also primarily depends on the connection scheme, that is, on the reciprocal placement of the heat carrier supply pipe and access to the "return."

Prior to planning the installation of radiators, the owner must ascertain the type of heating system that is currently in place or will be installed in his home or apartment. In other words, he needs to be able to visualize the coolant’s source and direction of flow.

One -pipe heating system

Most frequently, a single-pipe system is employed in multi-story buildings. Each radiator in this scheme is essentially inserted into the "rupture" of the single pipe that supplies the heat carrier and then withdrawn towards the "return."

Options for single-pipe heating risers in multi-story structures.

Heat is gradually wasted as the coolant gradually runs through each radiator that is installed in the riser. It is obvious that the temperature will always be higher in the riser’s initial section; this needs to be considered when organizing the radiator installation.

Here’s where another thing is crucial. One way to arrange an apartment building’s single-pipe system is to use the upper and lower presentation principles.

  • Left (pos.1) The upper supply is shown – the coolant in a straight pipe is transmitted to the top point of the riser, and then sequentially passes through all the radiators on the floors. So, the direction of supplying the flow goes from top to bottom.
  • In order to simplify the system and saving consumables, another scheme is often organized – with the lower presentation (pos. 2). In this case, radiators are also sequentially installed on the top floor ascending to the upper floor, as well as down down. So, the direction of the flow of the coolant in these "branches" of one loop changes to the opposite. Obviously, the difference in temperature in the first and last radiator of such a circuit will be even more sensible.

It is crucial to address this matter – which pipe in a single-pipe system your radiator is installed on, as the best insert scheme relies on the flow direction.

An essential requirement for the radiator strapping in a single-pipe riser bypass A jumper labeled "Bypass," which may not be immediately clear to all, joins the radiator connection pipe and riser pipes in a single-pipe system. Discover the reasons behind the necessity for a bypass in the heating system and the installation guidelines by perusing the dedicated publication available on our portal.

Private one-story homes frequently utilize a single-pipe system, if only to save installation materials. Here, it is simpler for the owner to comprehend which side the coolant will be supplied to the radiator and with which, the output, and which is the direction of the coolant flow.

When installing radiators in any single-pipe heating system, it’s critical to precisely understand the coolant flow direction.

Benefits and drawbacks of a heating system with a single pipe Although the system is straightforward, it is somewhat concerning because of the difficulty in ensuring uniform heating throughout the house when wiring radiators. In another portal publication, find out everything there is to know about pipe heating systems in private homes, including how to install them yourself.

Two -pipe system

The name alone makes it obvious that every radiator in such a system "rests" on two pipes: one for the feed and one for the "return."

When examining the two-pipe wiring system in a multi-story building, the distinctions become apparent instantly.

As unusual collectors, both risers are connected in parallel, independently of one another, to which heating radiators are connected.

It is evident that there is very little dependence between the heating temperature and the radiator’s location within the heating system. Only the mutual arrangement of the pipe risers determines the direction of the flow. The only information you really need to know is which riser specifically acts as the "reversal" and plays the role of the presentation; generally speaking, you can figure this out even by looking at the pipe’s temperature.

Certain apartment dwellers might be misled into believing that even with two risers, the system will still only have one pipe. Take a look at the following example:

In both scenarios, there are two risers, and the heating systems are essentially different.

On the left, although it seems to be risers and two, a single -pipe system is shown. The coolant top is made up of just one pipe. However, the example of two distinct risers—filing and "return"—on the right is standard.

Dependence of the effectiveness of the radiator on the scheme of its insertion into the system

Why did you do that? What has been posted in the article’s earlier sections? However, the reality is that the supply and reverse pipe arrangements have a significant impact on how well heat is transferred by the heating radiator.

Radiator insert scheme into the circuit The direction of the flows of the coolant
Diagonal double -sided connection of the radiator, with a feed on the top
This scheme is considered the most effective. In principle, it is it that is based on the basis when calculating the heat transfer of a particular radiator model, that is, the power of the pori battery of such a connection is taken per unit. The coolant, without meeting any resistance, completely passes through the upper collector, through all the vertical channels, providing maximum heat transfer. The entire radiator warms up evenly throughout its entire area.
One -sided connection of the radiator with the feed on top
Such a scheme is one of the most common in heating systems of multi -storey buildings, as the most compact in vertical risers. It is used on risers with the top supply of the coolant, as well as on the opposite, descending – with the lower presentation. Quite effective for small radiators in size. However, if the number of sections is large, then heating can be carried out unevenly. The kinetic energy of the flow becomes not enough to spread the coolant to the very end of the upper supply collector – the liquid seeks to pass along the path of least resistance, that is, through the closest to the vertical channels, I enter. Thus, stagnant zones are not excluded in the far from the entrance of the battery, which will be much colder than the opposite. When calculating the system, they usually proceed from the fact that even with the optimal battery length, its total heat transfer efficiency decreases by 3 ÷ 5%. Well, with long radiators, such a scheme becomes ineffective or will require a certain optimization (this will be described below)/
One -sided connection of the radiator with the feed on top
A scheme similar to the previous one, and in many ways repeating and even enhancing its inherent shortcomings. It is used in the same risers of single -pipe systems, but only in diagrams with a lower supply – on an ascending pipe, so the coolant is supplied from below. Losses in the total heat transfer during such a connection can be even higher – reach 20 ÷ 22%. This is due to the fact that the closure of the movement of the coolant through the closest vertical channels will also contribute to the difference in density – the hot liquid strives upward, and therefore passes to the remote edge of the lower supply collector of the radiator. Sometimes this is the only connection option. The losses are to some extent compensated by the fact that in the ascending pipe the overall level of temperature of the coolant is always higher. The scheme is optimized by the installation of special devices.
Bilateral connection with the lower connection of both inlets
The lower scheme, or, as it is often called a “saddle” connection, is extremely popular in autonomous systems of private houses due to wide possibilities to hide the pipes of the heating contour under the decorative surface of the floor or make them as inconspicuous as possible. However, in terms of heat transfer, such a scheme is far from optimal, and possible loss loss are estimated at 10 ÷ 15%. The most affordable path for the coolant in this case is the lower manifold, and the distribution through vertical channels is greater due to the difference in density. As a result, the upper part of the heating battery can warm up much less than the lower. There are certain methods and means of lighting this drawback to a minimum.
Diagonal double -sided connection of the radiator, with the supply from below
Despite the apparent similarity to the first, the most optimal scheme, the difference between them is a very big. Efficiency losses with such a connection reach 20%. This is explained – quite simple. The coolant has no incentives to freely penetrate the distant section of the lower feeder of the radiator – due to the difference in density, he chooses the vertical channels closest to the battery entrance to the battery. As a result, with a rather uniformly heated top, in the lower corner, the opposite entrance, stagnation is very often formed, that is, the temperature of the battery surface in this area will be less. Like the scheme is extremely rare in practice – it’s even difficult to imagine a situation where it is absolutely necessary to resort to it, rejecting other, more optimal solutions.

The lower unilateral connection of the batteries does not purposefully refer to the table. Since this is a confusing question, many radiators that raise the prospect of an insert of this kind offer unique adapters that, in essence, make the lower connection one of the options listed in the table. Furthermore, you can buy extra equipment that will structurally change the lower one-sided eyeliner to a better option—even for standard radiators.

It is true that there are more "exotic" insert schemes; for instance, the nicotor models from this series have a double-sided connection with both eyeliners from above, which is suitable for radiators with vertical performance of a large height. However, these batteries’ very construction maximizes the amount of heat transfer from them.

The dependence of the efficiency of the heat transfer of the radiator on the place of its installation in the room

The location of installation is significantly impacted by the effectiveness of these heat-transfer devices in addition to the schematic that links radiators to the heating contour.

First of all, there are a few guidelines that need to be followed when positioning the radiator on the wall in relation to other interior design elements and designs.

The radiator is usually found beneath the window opening. Apart from the standard heat transfer, the rising convection flow forms a sort of "thermal curtain" that stops colder air from freely penetrating the windows.

Under window openings is a "classic" location for heating radiator installation.

  • The radiator in this place will show maximum efficiency if its total length is about 75% of the width of the window opening. In this case, it is necessary to try to install the battery in the center of the window, with a minimum deviation not exceeding 20 mm in one direction or another.
  • The distance from the lower plane of the window sill (or other obstacle located on top is shelves, the horizontal wall of the niche, etc.P.) should be about 100 mm. In any case, it should never be less than 75% of the depth of the radiator itself. Otherwise, a difficult obstacle is created for convection flows, and the effectiveness of the battery drops sharply.
  • The height of the lower edge of the radiator above the floor should also be about 100 ÷ 120 mm. With a lumen of less than 100 mm, firstly, considerable difficulties are artificially created in the conduct of regular shots under the battery (and this is the traditional place of dust of dust transferred by convection flows of air). And secondly-convection itself will be difficult. At the same time, the radiator is too high, with a lumen from the floor of the floor of 150 mm or more, is also completely useless, since this leads to the uneven spread of heat in the room: a pronounced cold layer can remain in a bordering floor surface. air.
  • Finally, and from the wall the radiator should be attributed by brackets by at least 20 mm. Reducing this clearance is a violation of normal air convection, and in addition, clearly visible dust traces may soon appear on the wall.

These are rough guidelines that one should follow. Nevertheless, some radiators have additional manufacturer-developed recommendations for linear installation parameters; these are listed in the product operating manuals.

Manufacturers of heating radiators frequently include the suggested installation dimensions in their passports.

It probably doesn’t need to be explained that a radiator that is exposed to the wall will transfer heat at a significantly higher rate than one that is completely or partially hidden by interior objects. A windowsill that is even too wide can already cut the efficiency of the heating by a few percent. Furthermore, if we consider that many owners find it impossible to live without thick window coverings or that they attempt to conceal ugly radiators from view with decorative screens on the facade or even fully closed casings, then the estimated battery power may not be sufficient to heat the room to a satisfactory degree.

A range of screens or ornamental radiator boxes may be very lovely, but they significantly lower heating efficiency.

The table below displays the heat transfer losses based on the characteristics of the wall-mounted heating radiator installation.

Illustration The impact of the indicator heat transfer shown on the heat transfer
The radiator is located on the wall completely openly, or installed under the windowsill, which closes no more than 75% of the depth of the battery. In this case, both the main heat transfer paths are fully preserved – both convection and thermal radiation. Efficiency can be taken per unit.
Window sill or shelf completely overlap the radiator on top. For infrared radiation – it does not matter, but the convection flow is already meeting a serious obstacle. Losses can be estimated at 3 ÷ 5% of the total heat capacity of the battery.
In this case, not a window sill or shelf from above, but the upper wall of the wall niche. At first glance, everything is the same, but the losses are already slightly more – up to 7 ÷ 8%, since part of the energy will be in vain spent on warming the very warm -intensive wall material.
The radiator from the facade part is covered with a decorative screen, but the clearance for air convection is sufficient. The loss is precisely in thermal infrared radiation, which especially affects the effectiveness of cast -iron and bimetallic batteries. The losses of heat transfer with this installation reach 10 ÷ 12%.
The heating radiator is covered with a decorative casing completely, from all sides. It is clear that in such that in such a casing there are lattices or gap -shaped holes for air circulation, but convection, and direct thermal radiation are sharply reduced. Losses can reach 20 – 25% of the estimated power of the battery.

So, it is obvious that some nuances of installing heating radiators are free to change in the direction of increasing the efficiency of heat transfer. However, sometimes the place is so limited that you have to put up with the existing conditions regarding both the location of the heating circuit and free area on the wall surface. Another option is that the desire to hide the batteries from the eyes prevails over common sense, and installing screens or decorative covers – the case is already resolved. This means, in any case, you will have to make amendments to the total capacity of the radiators in order to guaranteed to achieve the required level of heating in the room. Correctly make appropriate adjustments will help the calculator below.

Heating power adjustment calculator, taking into account the features of the installation of radiators

The necessary thermal power to compensate for heat loss and keep the room at a comfortable temperature even during the coldest winter months is one of the first parameters to be calculated. This value is computed independently, taking into account the particulars of the area in which the residence is located, as well as the characteristics of the individual premises within it. There is an easy way to calculate this, but you can’t learn how to use it by clicking on the link that appears beneath the suggested link.

Does a given room’s thermal heating power need to be calculated? With a handy calculator, you can finish it quickly and accurately. Visitors can access it through a dedicated section of our portal that is focused on electric boilers for standard homes.

Please note that when calculating the required heat transfer of radiators, two calculation routes are proposed. If the plans are planned to purchase a non -graceful model, then the item is selected “A", And the value is taken from the corresponding line of the final result – this is the minimum heat power of the device, expressed in kilowatts. In the same case, when the question is as much as the sections of the collapsible radiator will be needed, after choosing a point "B»An additional window sloser will appear, in which it is necessary to specify the passport thermal power of one section corresponding to the heating system used in the heating system. Moreover, the value after calculations is also taken from the line "B", And it will show the required number of sections.

Connecting radiators to the central heating unit during the installation of your home heating system is essential for effective heat distribution. The procedure entails installing strainer valves to keep debris out of the radiators and guarantee optimal operation. Even heating throughout your home is ensured by properly connecting the radiators, increasing comfort and reducing energy waste. By being aware of this connection process, you can keep your home comfortable and reasonably priced, providing your family with warmth on cold days without going over budget.

Approximate sequence of installation of a heating radiator

It is just not feasible to cover every scenario for installing heating radiators in a single publication. Thus, a brief discussion of a common installation of aluminum or bimetallic sectional batteries in our day and age will be provided. The order for all other cases will, in theory, be roughly the same, and the manufacturer will inevitably specify the relevant details in the product’s instructions.

What is required to connect the heating radiator

A number of parts will need to be purchased in order to install the radiator:

  • Any section of the radiator of such types has on the collector the internal thread G1 (1 inch), and on the left is the thread of the left, and the right side on the right side. Such a oncoming direction of turns is necessary for assembling sections to a single battery using nipples.

Any section’s collector department concludes with threaded sections that show the left and right threads, which indicate the turns’ approaching directions. G1

This indicates that adapters are required so that we can use the standard right-sided ½ or ¾ inch threads that are most frequently used for eyeliner. In addition to the term "footbag," another term for these adapters is "passing plug." Everything about this is the same.

Four of these adapters (freezes) are needed: two left and two right.

Costing Costing Costs

Passing traffic jam

Depending on the eyeliner pipes being used, the internal connecting diameter of the adapters is chosen.

  • As the connection circulations given above, in most cases only two inputs are used. So, the remaining two will need to be drowned out. To do this, you can use ordinary plugs with an external thread corresponding to the selected adapter.

When the plug has a dependable ring seal, it is convenient because it eliminates the need for extra winding.

An ordinary deaf traffic jam with an appropriate left or right thread 1G can be used in place of such a "set," which consists of a foot plus plug.

  • Two plugs usually do not put such radiators. It is much more reasonable on the upper manifold instead of a cork to mount the Maevsky crane – a simple device that will allow the system of a coolant, before filling the system, before a seasonal start, or simply from time to time to produce air accumulated in the battery.

When Maevsky cranes are closed, they function similarly to regular plugs but always let you let out trapped air in the radiator.

When choosing a double-sided lower connection, the Maevsky crane is typically positioned at an angle from the feed pipe.

Such a crane has the key attached, which is required to release the air. This is merely being done for safety’s sake, to ensure that no one with "playful handles" could silently open the crane and summon the flood within the apartment.

Prefabricated installation kit for aluminum or bimetallic radiators

  • All components listed above can be purchased separately, however, ready -made sets are widely represented in stores. They include a full set of passing plugs (two pairs), one plug and a Maevsky crane with the attached key. In addition, often such a set also includes brackets for the suspension of the radiator on the wall (optimally, with medium sizes of the battery, up to 10 sections – three brackets). Such sets are sold for pipes and ½ and ¾ inch.
  • That"s not all. If you do everything according to the mind, that is, provide for the ability to turn off the radiator from the system, for example, for its prevention, repair, replacement, it is necessary to purchase two taps – ordinary ball. And it is best that the taps are immediately equipped with a coupling connection to the union nut, an “American”-this will extremely simplify subsequent installation work.

The most practical option is to use a crane that has a united nut, or "American"

The knot will no longer be challenging when a fitting with a single nut is packed in a radiator footer, a crane, on an eyeliner pipe.

Other devices can be purchased in place of standard ball valves if the characteristics of the heating system lend themselves to the installation of adjusting devices (for instance, the central heating system’s excessive thermal power or the autonomous system’s requirement for precise adjustments).

Therefore, it is advised to install a thermal valve on the feed pipe. A thermostatic head can be added as an additional feature. Direct and angular designs are available for them; the choice is based on the radiator’s eyeliner’s characteristics.

Direct thermal class featuring an automated thermostatic head

  • To achieve accurate balancing and maximum heat transfer from the radiator, adjusting the valve at the output. In order to ensure the preservation of the settings made, it makes sense for these purposes to purchase the so-called block frame, from which the adjusting screw (under the screwdriver or under the hexagonant) is covered with a plug-so that, for example, the child could not accidentally knock down the exhibited position.

The block crane version that is straight and cornered is intended for installation on the radiator’s "return."

The installation of the adjusting valves and valves, as shown in the illustrations, is identical to that of the crane installation above in that it is fitted with a fitting that has a detachable connection. Usually, these types of valves can cover the pipe entirely, negating the need for extra ball valves.

Again, there is the option to buy a thermostatic set that is already assembled and has the appropriate diameter and execution style. Thermostatic head, balancing valve, and thermal valve are typically included.

The heating radiator’s thermostat kit.

Is it required for it, and how does the heating radiator’s temperature controller operate? Heat exhaustion from hot radiators is a very bad phenomenon in addition to the uncomfortable state of having no heat in the building. It is recommended that thermoregulators be added to the system to stop this from occurring when heating radiators. See a different portal publication for additional information about them.

Nothing special from the tools is needed; it’s not necessary.

The tools necessary for connecting are a standard plumbing set: claws or divorce keys, bags and sealing paste for winding threaded joints. To hang the radiator on the wall you need a perforator, the construction level for marking and control of the installation, roulette or square, marker or pencil. Well, the eyeliner of the pipes to their connection point with ball valves or valves of thermostatic regulation is already a separate story that goes beyond the consideration of this article. A lot of options are possible here with the type of pipe laying (open or hidden in walls or floor), and by technology – whether the steel pipes of VGP, polypropylene, metal -plastic or others will be used – it all depends on the skills and preferences of the home master.

The sequence of work

We think the radiator is assembled and doesn’t need any additional parts, bulkheads, overturning, or other procedures. When it was all said and done, he had four fully free outputs from collectors.

Aluminum and bimetallic radiators are wrapped tightly in thick plastic when they are being sold. There’s no rush in getting rid of it; you can use the most recent action to ensure that you don’t unintentionally scratch the surface while working.

  • Start with a very crucial stage – marking lines and points for attaching brackets. The standard method of suspension of the average radiator is three points: two brackets hold the battery by weight for the upper manifold, and one, installed in the center, fixes its position for the lower manifold.

The whole challenge is that there are several requirements that need to be followed when marking.

-First and foremost, the radiator needs to be placed where it is supposed to be, following the manufacturer’s recommendations or the previously mentioned rules regarding warmth.

-Secondly, the radiator needs to be positioned horizontally. Up to a 1-degree deviation in the direction of the feed’s opposite input is permitted; however, if the "blockage" is greater, stagnant phenomena in the battery cannot be ruled out.

It is possible to modify the radiator’s position if you buy adjustable brackets. When using regular harsh hooks, the mistake should be initially ruled out.

They can be made taller or shorter with certain brackets, like the ones that come with Rifar radiators. However, if regular hooks are utilized in this situation, extra caution and attention to detail are required.

Thirdly, the radiator’s front surface needs to be in a vertical plane.

-And lastly, fourthly, the radiator position needs to match the old, stiff eyeliner if the calculation is still based on it.

To put it simply, you will need to take precise measurements, mark everything precisely, and then mount the brackets to the wall. Once they have been fixed, they are tried on and any necessary adjustments are made.

The level regulates the radiator’s position in both horizontal and vertical planes, as well as ensuring an equal separation on both wall sides.

By the way, you can buy specialized racks with brackets if you don’t want to ruin the wall with holes in it or if the radiator is going to be installed next to a light partition whose material doesn’t require heavy loads.

The radiator can be mounted on a variety of vertical racks that are fastened to the ground.

These racks are fastened to the floor in the proper location using any method that is appropriate under the given circumstances (dowels, anchors, or even strong self-tapping screws). It won’t be hard to precisely position the radiator horizontally because the racks typically have height-adjustable brackets.

  • Then the radiator is removed, put on a convenient workbench – it"s time to move on to the assembly of the plumbing part.
  • They begin by the fact that once again they coordinate the position of the radiator with the diagram of its connection to the pipes. This is necessary in order to decide which footsters will be packed in cranes (valves) with uniform nuts, and which will be jammed with a sink and a crane of Maevsky.

Think about the following example. Assume the battery’s one-sided connection is located on top of the right:

An illustration of where the radiator strapping components are located

Manifold upper:

The Maevsky crane is scheduled to be installed at entrance B1, which is the left passing plug. Since the crane that comes with the installation kit has its own ring seal, packing is not needed in this instance.

– The right passing plug, or entrance B2, is where the "American" fitting beneath the ball crane or thermal valve is packed.

Manifold below:

– The left dull cork, or the passage, is entrance B3. A plug must be installed on it (as well as the maevsky crane, which does not need to be wound).

– Entrance B4: the right passing plug under the balancing valve or under the ball crane, which also has the American woman’s packet.

If everything is ready, everything is crystal clear, you will know exactly what is installed, and then the process of further pacing the radiator goes like this:

Illustration Brief description of the operation performed
An example – similar to the above scheme: one -sided eyeliner on the right side with a feed from above.
The radiator adjustment is not supposed, therefore, on the entrances of the feed and “return”, ordinary ball valves will be applied as shut -off elements – the installation principle from this does not change at all.
Installation kit prepared for work.
To begin with, it is recommended to check the quality of all threaded connections, the density of the passage plugs to the ends of the radiator collectors (their compression “skirts” should fit the same way throughout the circumference, without clearance).
For such a check, silicone rings-laying, worn on corks, it is better to temporarily remove.
, of course, should be removed with caution, so as not to stretch and torn the gasket.
The gaskets are removed and while temporarily cleaned to the side.
The cork is twisted into the carvings of the collector (in accordance with the installation circuit).
If both the radiator and the mounting kit are of high -quality, then the foot should easily twist to the very end with a simple effort of the hand.
In this case, a cork is checked on the right side of the collector – it is twisted by the usual order, rotation by clockwise.
The traffic jam should evenly along the entire length of the circumference, tightly, without a clearance, lie down to the end of the radiator collector.
Similar verification operations are carried out at all four outputs of both collectors.
on the left side of the radiator of traffic jams have the left thread, so they are twisted against the clockwise.
If the cork is not screwed or requires excessive efforts for this, or if in the twisted state there is no tightly uniform fit, it is necessary to eliminate the possible interference.
quite often such situations are formed due to the hit of the drops of paint on the first turns of the thread, or due to the frozen flows of the paint on the end part of the nest. In such cases, you will have to clean these streams with a knife or sandpaper.
rarely, but it still happens that the thread on the radiator manifold even has to go through a tap of the corresponding diameter.
In the same way, they check in the same way “for dry” and threaded connections of passing plugs with cranes, with a plug and a crane of Maevsky.
All internal holes of any plugs, both left and right, have a single ordinary right thread.
Now it is necessary to stock up fittings with pitch nuts from ball crashes with appropriate passing through.
Gaiki-“Americans” are twisted from the cranes, but must be worn on their fitting.
compaction of the threaded area. You can use the FUM tone for this, but still the vast majority of plumbers prefer a reliable winding of linen packet. Packla is wound along the thread, that is, if you look from the side of the fitting – clockwise.
WINDING on the turns should be dense so that PACLE does not slip through when connecting.
For reliable sealing the connection, the winding on top is smeared with sealing paste type “Unipak”.
Some masters prefer to use Olifa for these purposes.
After smearing, the winding takes the form of a dense “cocoon”.
Now you can make a couple of turns a fitting with a passing nut.
Next, it is necessary to tighten this connection.
for fixing the fitting when twisting inside it, slots are provided. There are special keys for such operations. But if there is no key, you can do without it.
It is necessary to insert a metal narrow object into the cavity of the fitting, which would jam the slots, preventing the fitting from turning.
In the example shown, for this, a chisel was used in a vice. Its flat tip stood between the slots, the fitting will remain motionless, and the passing nut will become tightened with a regular 32 -eye clause for 32.
The tightening is carried out until a reliable, well -compacted connection is obtained.
Then the same operation is carried out with the fitting of the second crane and the appropriate pass
A plug is screwed into one of the remaining passage plugs.
The details that are in the installation sets already have their own sealing ring, that is, no pacley triggers – it is not required.
At first, the plug is baiting in the cork ..
… and then tightened with two keys.
The same operation is carried out with the crane of Maevsky.
At first – a bait with an appropriate traffic jam ..
… and then a puff.
All passing traffic jams with the details installed in them are ready for installation directly to the heating radiator.
The sequence of installation of plugs on the radiator does not matter much, and all of them are mounted approximately the same.
In this case, the master started.
First of all, a previously removed sealing silicone ring is put on.
Then the cork is screwed manually into the corresponding nest of the radiator collector.
Again – the rule of the right and left threads is observed, respectively, for the right and left side of the battery.
Winding and in this case – it is not needed.
during the final tightening with a 32 -eye, the silicone ring will burn tightly and even slightly performed around the circle of the connection with a neat even beaming – this is normal.
The same operation, but already from below, from the side of connecting the “Reverse” pipe.
Similar actions are carried out on the opposite side of the radiator.
First, a compaction on the cork with the Maevsky crane is placed ..
. and the cork is delayed in its collector"s nest.
Then – the last output is closed with a traffic jam with a plug installed on it.
Everything, the radiator itself, in principle, can be considered packed.
  • After that, the radiator can be safely sewn on previously installed brackets, while monitoring the correctness of all the elements of the binding, as well as the horizontal and vertical position of the battery position,.
  • On the taps (on their threaded part, opposite to the united nut), the necessary elements are packed for connecting with the heating contour. It can be fittings for rations of polypropylene, press fitings for a metal-plastic pipe, a threaded lining for connecting with a steel pipe or even just a steel pipe- if a connection is supposed to be connected using an electric or gas welding.

The last step is to use the chosen technology to install the tube eyeliner "in place" and finish the final laying and docking. We won’t discuss these procedures because there are many different options available and they already pertain more to general-based problems.

You might be curious to know how effective polypropylene heating pipes are.

  • After inserting the pipes, sealing gaskets are inserted into the “Americans” unit-and the final sealed connection of the radiator is made to the feed and “return” eyeliner. On this, installation work can be considered complete. It remains to verify the reliability of all connecting units by crimping the heating system – but this is already a topic for a separate consideration.

Some methods for optimizing the connection of radiators to the heating contour

It makes sense that property owners would want to get the most out of their heating radiator investment. However, it is understandable why many of them are reluctant to build strange tube structures in the rooms that would enable you to arrive at the best possible battery connection arrangement. These "Zagulins" have the potential to greatly degrade the interior design.

This "pipe web," which was designed to connect the battery to the pipe and return pipes in the most efficient way, may not be to everyone’s taste.

There are often more practical options available that are invisible to the naked eye. This could be an independent installation of an addition to the radiator or a useful feature of the radiator itself.

For instance, there are batteries available that look just like regular ones, but they alter a specific kind of insert into the contour. Think about the plans.

To start, a radiator made for a lower connection on both sides:

Refinement that uses a lower bilateral connection to maximize the radiator’s performance

It’s worth noting that the only modification is a jumper from the side of the battery’s first and second sections. The coolant’s entire flow into the radiator is compelled to ascend the first section’s vertical channel before dispersing further. As it happens, the radiator starts operating in accordance with the upper feed’s most advantageous diagonal connection diagram.

Sometimes it makes more sense to install both eyeliner pipes on top (high vertical tubular radiators are particularly known for this). Here, the plan is a little different.

And this choice is an eyeliner applied from above that is double-sided.

The jumper in this battery is located in front of the final section at the output. It turns out that in order for the coolant to go upstairs to the output pipe, it must pass through each of the sections’ internal channels and collect there. We thus have the same effective diagonal connection once more.

Some companies offer a complete range of the same type of radiators for different connecting methods. It is imperative that the product passport specify this.

However, these advancements can be made on their own. In order to accomplish this, special valves are available that are screwed in place of a passing plug in the intended location of the plug between the first and second (or last and penultimate) section.

Valve to enhance the heating radiator’s heat transfer

These valves, like standard passing plugs, can be threaded left or right and are made to attach to pipes that are ½ or ¾ inch in diameter. Since the valve length is intended for a particular section of the section, when the radiator is packed, the spring-loaded valve part will precisely block the coolant passage on the connecting nipple.

If you’re looking for information on what electric heating boilers guarantee, you might find it interesting.

Radiator connections that are one-sided have a finalization option. Here, a unique tool known as the extension cord is employed. It is a long, fixed-from-the-inside pipe with a typical passage diameter of 16 mm. This extension cord ends in the space between the final and penultimate sections from the opposite side when the radiator is assembled. It begins in the center of the collector.

How does it operate?

Additionally, the extension cord converts the radiator’s side connection into a diagonal analogue.

In contrast to the typical side connection, the coolant, to exit the radiator during circulation, one must first reach the echoed end of the extension cord before continuing on this tube into the "Reverse" pipe. As a result, the radiator’s overall fluid movement once more becomes diagonal, which is ideal for efficient heat transfer.

Once more, there is an option to purchase these extension cords in their completed state under the left or right side of the installation.

Factory extension cord

However, it is simple to make on your own. This will require the purchase of a special passing plug rather than a standard one. It has a threaded section on the inside, onto which you can wind a tube of the required length and diameter, or a pickle fitting, for example.

This is how the flow extension cord manufacturer portrays passing traffic jams.

Additionally, a lot of masters use standard metal-plastic pipes as extension cords because their segments are already simple to connect with fittings.

DIY extension cord made from a plastic and metal pipe

Options for one-sided lower heating radiators were purposefully shown "beyond the brackets" in this publication. For the sole reason that these methods of inserting either require the use of many adapters or the use of radiators that are fully or optionally adapted to such conditions, making this topic worthy of separate discussion. Keep up with the latest updates on our portal; this issue will undoubtedly be resolved.

Another video tutorial on installing the heating radiator for the Rifar Monolit model line can be found at the conclusion of this publication. Pipe installation from the Rehau study on stitched polyethylene on our website.

Topic Connection of heating radiators of the strainer of the installation of batteries
Description This table provides information on how to connect heating radiators to the strainer during the installation of batteries.

To keep your home comfortable and cut down on energy expenses, make sure your insulation and heating system are operating efficiently. Installing radiator valves and strainers as well as correctly connecting the heating radiators are important steps in this process.

It’s crucial to carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions when connecting heating radiators. This entails setting up the radiators in the ideal locations and sizes to distribute heat throughout the entire house. Furthermore, to avoid heat loss and inefficiency in the system, it is essential to guarantee a leak-free and secure connection.

By adding strainers, you can shield the radiators and other parts of the heating system from sediment and debris buildup, which over time can cause clogs and decreased heating efficiency. To guarantee that these strainers continue to work efficiently, regular maintenance is required.

The efficiency of the heating system is enhanced by proper house insulation, which reduces heat loss through the roof, windows, and walls. This can be accomplished by caulking any openings or fractures where air can escape and applying insulating materials like fiberglass, foam board, or spray foam.

To sum up, installing strainers and connecting heating radiators are essential parts of a functional heating system. Through adherence to appropriate protocols and consistent upkeep, homeowners can enhance energy efficiency, minimize heating expenses, and sustain a cozy living space all year round.

What type of heating you would like to have in your home?
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Anna Vasilieva
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