Connection of bimetallic heating radiators

The heating system is essential to maintaining a comfortable and warm home. Radiators are a common part of these systems; they provide heat to the entire house. But not every radiator is made equally. Because of their durability and efficiency, bimetallic radiators have become more and more popular. We’ll examine bimetallic heating radiators in this post and see how you can integrate them with your house’s heating system.

Two distinct metals are used in the construction of bimetallic radiators, usually steel and aluminum. They are able to effectively transfer heat from the water inside to the surrounding air because of this special combination. Aluminum ensures quick heat conduction, while steel offers durability and strength. This produces a radiator that is perfect for keeping your home at a comfortable temperature because it heats up quickly and retains warmth well.

Bimetallic radiator connections to heating systems need to be carefully planned and carried out. Radiator longevity and optimum performance are ensured by proper installation. Using pipes and valves, the radiators are connected to the central heating system during this process. In order to avoid leaks and guarantee effective heat distribution throughout the house, these connections need to be tight.

It’s crucial to evaluate your home’s layout and heating requirements before starting the installation process. Take into account elements like the rooms’ sizes, the degree of insulation, and the ideal temperature range. This data will assist in figuring out how many radiators you’ll need and where to put them in order to heat your room efficiently.

It’s time to start the installation process after you’ve decided where to put the radiators. If applicable, this can entail removing outdated radiators and modifying the plumbing system as needed. To guarantee compliance and safety, it is essential to adhere to local building codes and manufacturer guidelines.

To sum up, bimetallic heating radiators provide a dependable and effective way to heat your house in the winter. You may enjoy constant warmth and comfort throughout your house by being aware of how these radiators operate and making the appropriate connections between them and your heating system.

Tools Needed	Procedure
Adjustable Wrench	1. Turn off the heating system. 2. Use the wrench to loosen the nuts on both ends of the existing radiator. 3. Remove the old radiator carefully. 4. Clean the threads of the existing valves. 5. Attach the new bimetallic radiator to the existing valves. 6. Tighten the nuts securely. 7. Turn the heating system back on and check for any leaks.

DIY bimetallic radiators connection

You can perform the installation of bimetallic radiators by hand. In this instance, not all manufacturers provide a guarantee. However, it needs to be accredited even if you install the radiators as a team. Furthermore, a few of them consent to only placing seals on multiple manufacturers’ passports. You will also require a project for the installation or replacement of radiators agreed upon the corresponding instances in order to provide a guarantee. Generally speaking, many manufacturers’ guarantees are more like empty words than true commitments.

Either you or a specialist will mount the batteries, so you better know what to do and how to do it.

Options for connections. In the actual performance, each of them will be smaller in the picture (click to enlarge the picture).

Knowing how bimetallic heating radiators work is essential when it comes to insulation and home heating. Bimetallic radiators are a common option because of their longevity and effectiveness. These radiators can tolerate high temperatures and pressure changes without deforming because they are made of two metals with distinct coefficients of thermal expansion. When these radiators are connected correctly, your home will have the best possible heat distribution, which improves comfort and energy efficiency. Understanding the fundamentals of bimetallic radiator connections can help homeowners save energy expenses while efficiently maintaining a comfortable and well-controlled interior space.

What to take into account

When selecting a radiator installation circuit, it’s critical to take multiple factors into account at once:

• System type – one -pipe or two -pipe;
• Where does the heat carrier supply from above or below come from;
• The number of sections in the battery.

A bit more on the potential effects of all these variables.

Type of system

Wiring for a one-pipe system may be horizontal or vertical. Horizontal is rarely used in three-story homes and is more common in one- or two-story homes. High-rise buildings frequently have vertical wiring. At this point, the pipe exits the stream, travels to the radiator, and then exits the radiator to the floor. And every room, or nearly every room, has this kind of image (two radiators can be powered by a single riser and can be in separate rooms or in the same room).

Ways to connect a single riser to two radiators. The wiring in the picture is a single pipe with a feed on top.

What makes this system good? It is more stable, requires less money for installation, and is harder to unbalance. However, hydraulic resistance can vary significantly when radiator and pipe parameters are changed significantly. Additionally, you get the first two sections, which are barely warm, and the accompanying drop in temperature instead of the anticipated "warming."

Why is there no single-pipe wiring? The coolant gradually cools as it moves forward. Furthermore, the lower floor will be colder the more efficiently the neighbor’s radiator (located at the upper feed) heats. For this reason, they agreed to the ruling that the heating system belongs to the community and that any replacement of pipes or heating equipment needs to be approved by the operational organization.

The vertical two-pipe system appears as a side connection (a feed riser to the right) in this manner.

Two -pipe wiring in multi -storey buildings is rarely used: there are much more pipes on it, with large sizes it is more difficult to balance it. This is what a two -pipe system looks like in a multi -storey building: two pipes enters the room. The coolant is supplied from one (hotter) to the radiator, a slightly cooled is assigned to the second. With this scheme, the heat carrier of approximately the same temperature is supplied to all heating devices on the riser. This is her plus. But by changing the hydraulic resistance in just one radiator, you can completely unbalance the system. If the resistance is very small, then the entire coolant (or almost all) will go through this site. The rest will remain cold. Therefore, if you have such wiring, the installation of regulatory reinforcement (manual control valves or thermostats) is required.

Direction of the heat carrier

Now let’s talk about the effects of the coolant supply direction. There is no specific difference with the lower saddle connection of radiators (the code uses the lower vertical manifold, and not a special entry unit). You can’t mess up a feed, though, if you install radiators with a lower connection node and use a lateral and diagonal leash. This suggests that he might warm up very slowly or not at all.

When a lateral or diagonal connection is made, the back pipeline pipe is started from below while the feed is started from above. Take a look at the picture to see how it appears in actual cases.

Vertical wiring, a single-pipe system for the side connection, and an overhead supply

When installing a bimetallic radiator with a lower connection, you need to know exactly which of the inputs the feed is connected. These data are in the passport. Why can not be confused? Because on the supply in such heating appliances from the entrance node there is a tube, which brings the coolant to the upper manifold. And then it is already spreading along the radiator. The coolant is assembled in the lower manifold, and from there it is already displayed to the return pipeline. Please note that the connection node can be located on the right or left on the radiator. Choose the one that is closer to the riser – fewer pipes, more accurately. Read more about the connection schemes for connecting radiators here .

This is the appearance of a radiator that has a lower hidden connection. It’s critical to distinguish between the rewriting and the supply pipeline.

The number of sections

The selection of connection type is influenced by the quantity of bimetal radiator sections. You can use the side, lower saddle, or diagonal connection if there are up to eight sections in the battery. When numbers are higher, the diagonal is the most efficient. Lateral access is feasible, but with the use of an extension cord.

A tube called a "stream extension cord" is placed inside the feed collector. When only a few of the sections during lateral connection turn out to be hot and the remaining sections are very weak, it helps. The entire surface warms up more uniformly because the pipe that is inserted inside delivers the coolant to the surface rather than the entrance.

This is the appearance of the extension cord. Simple device with a significant impact

How long to put an extension cord? Option two: 2/3 batteries or up to the middle of the last section. In different situations, different options are effective. In any case, the radiator begins to warm up better. Just sometimes, when installing to the middle of the last section, the former are heated significantly less than the latter. Then the way out is to shorten the pipe. But this situation does not always arise. It depends on the pressure of the riser and the diameter of the eyeliner. Based on the experience, you can advise you to put a long tube, then, if necessary, it can be shortened (it will not work to increase).

Occasionally, holes are drilled in the extension cord’s tube to allow the coolant to enter adjacent vertical collectors more evenly. Nonetheless, integral tubes and thickets work incredibly well.

Necessary reinforcement

A standard connection kit is required for the installation of any sectional bimetallic radiator. It includes:

On the radiator, adapters are mounted on the left and right. Pipes or reinforcement will be attached to them. The diameter, either ½ or ¾ inch, will determine the placement of the eyeliner and reinforcement.

This serves as radiator reinforcement. In single-pipe systems, ball cranes are necessary, and in two-pipe systems, thermostats are optional.

What pipes and what diameter

In a high-rise building, it is recommended to utilize identical pipes and diameters when replacing radiators. These are reasonable requirements, not just whims. Hydraulic resistance and working pressure are two crucial parameters that are taken into account when calculating systems in multi-story buildings. They believe that when a system is started, a test (assessment) pressure is created that is far greater than the working pressure.

Despite their many benefits, metal-plastic and polypropylene pipes are inappropriate for these pressures. They do not last long in centralized systems, despite their greater attractiveness. Consequently, there was a flood and all the related effects.

The most efficient connection is a diagonal one.

Pipe diameters fall under the same category. The hydraulic resistance of the entire system is significantly altered by changes in the eyeliner’s diameter. and not the fact that this will somehow benefit you. As a result, if the prior pipes were semi-inch, use the same and select the appropriate reinforcement and radiator adapters. Also relative to three -occasional.

Bypass: what and why

Briefly describe the radiator strapping’s circuitry. Bypass is necessary when bimetallic radiators are installed in single-pipe systems. This is a jumper that is located between the feed pipe and the "return." The "extra" coolant that doesn’t go to your radiator will accumulate along this jumper. By using such a plan, you can prevent a "showdown" with the control campaign since you will never "ban" the drain.

Most of the time, they attempt to move the bypass, which is situated between the riser and the radiator. It is sometimes recommended to place a crane on it in order to change the radiator’s temperature. However, there is still a chance to "block the riser," so the approach is more detrimental than helpful. She even starts to seem more genuine.

It is necessary to have a bypass with a one-pipe system in order to change the radiator’s temperature or turn it off entirely.

Leaving the bypass unregulated and installing the regulatory reinforcement on your radiator will have a far greater impact. However, if your room is extremely hot, you must do this. In other situations, radiator efficacy doesn’t need to be decreased (and the regulators are doing this). One more detail: automatic regulators are made to withstand pressures of 10 atm. In other words, you can use them with confidence if the pressure-level (testing) pressure is less than 15 atm (the boundary pressure that they can tolerate). However, if the system is started above, they will fail.

If the thermostat is required and the test pressure is higher, your only option is to remove it prior to the system starting, install it, and then restart the system (while also cleaning the valve).

Controversial reinforcement

Shutoff cranes should always be placed at the entrance and output of bimetallic radiator installations. This is because some manufacturers recommend it. Typically, shut-off valves are made of ball valves. In order to guarantee the regular patency of the coolant, full-pass models—rather than standard models—are required.

Why would you need a locking reinforcement? It permits you to take out the battery for upkeep and repairs without having to turn the system off. Simply turn off the faucets, let the coolant settle, and take out the heating element. This is where the coolant bypass comes in handy, as it will carry the coolant without going through the disconnected radiator. You will need to close the riser completely if not. In order to accomplish this, you must pay for the system’s stops and drainage as well as bargain with the control campaign.

Saddle connection on the lower end of a one-pipe system

Air vents

The "Maevsky" crane, also known as a manual air vent, is included in the standard installation kit. The free upper manifold is where it is installed.

This component is necessary when connecting a bimetallic radiator. Gas is formed along with chemical reactions that take place when the coolant comes into contact with the collector’s materials. You can get rid of the gases and air that have built up in the radiator with this little gadget. If this isn’t done, the battery will experience excessive internal pressure, which will disrupt circulation during the heating season and cause a portion of the battery to stop heating up (usually turning into a cold top). The gases need to be lowered on a regular basis, the crane needs to be opened with a key, and then closed.

A radiator’s automatic air vent may be tiny.

You can install an automatic air vent if you prefer not to manually beat gases. The free upper manifold remains the same installation location. However, the device itself is installed strictly vertically and has a cylinder-shaped height of 6 to 8 cm. It functions only in this position. This is the greatest option if you’re not afraid of such "beauty" or if you still want to put a decorative screen on the radiator.

What you need to pay attention to when installing

There are two varieties of bimetallic radiators: partial and complete. Because partial vertical collectors—to which pipes or reinforcement are attached—are made of aluminum, extreme caution must be used during installation and connection. The following guidelines should be followed when installing bimetallic radiators:

• You can not make excessive efforts when connecting the reinforcement with collectors. Many manufacturers in the passport for radiators give detailed installation instructions. At the same time, the majority recommends using a dynamometric key, with which you can control the effort attached. For aluminum collectors (partial bimetal), this is no more than 100 n*m. When assembling complete bimetal with collectors made of steel 170 … 180 N*m.

If you use linen winding, do not wound it a lot: it may take part of the effort on yourself, but microcracks are subsequently formed in this place. Then the coolant will get into them, the detachment of the paint will begin and the leak will appear. Better use sealant. A little Lena on which the sealant is the best solution. You can without Lena at all. Only on sealant. But the paint in networks with a coolant other than water can not be used for sealing. Any other coolant quickly plunders it, and the radiator will begin to "drip".

Very carefully should be treated with paintwork. Especially in places of connection. If the coolant falls under the paint, the corrosion process will begin. Therefore, eliminate all damage immediately (appropriate paint or sealant).

The heating device should be located strictly horizontally. A slight increase in the angle where the air vent is installed is permissible – this is how the gases descend more efficiently. The reverse slope violates the circulation, therefore it is impossible to establish this way. The radiator should be located strictly horizontally

The radiator is hung with three brackets: two from above and one from below. All weights are on the top: the radiator is laid on them with the upper manifold. Lower serves only to give direction.

When installing a bimetallic radiator to create effective air exchange, it is necessary to withstand the following distances: to the floor there should be at least 6 cm, to the windowsill – at least 10 cm. But many manufacturers give their recommendations that are related to the design features. They can differ by several centimeters. What remains unchanged is the distance from the back wall of the battery to the wall behind it-3-5 cm.

It is impossible to claim that bimetallic radiator connections are easy to make. Many pitfalls, many subtleties and nuances. Still, you are capable of handling the assignment on your own. However, you can assign the case to a single expert or the brigade. In order to oversee the proper installation, you must also stay current on installation regulations and specifications.

How to connect a bimetallic radiator

• Preparation for connecting bimetallic heating radiators
• Bimeting heating radiators connection options
• Typical connection of radiators
• Features and nuances of connecting bimetallic heating radiators
• Step -by -step instructions for connecting bimetallic heating radiators

When it comes to heating batteries, the most common type these days is the bimetallic radiator. Installing them is far more common than installing their cast-iron or aluminum equivalents. This is because the bimetall that these units are made of has good heat-transmission properties and can tolerate the high pressure that city heating systems require. Bimetallic heating radiators are a viable substitute for both robust cast iron radiators and contemporary aluminum batteries. If you choose to connect bimetallic heating radiators on your own, bear in mind that this is a labor-intensive and complicated task that calls for the right knowledge and abilities.

Drawing of a bimetallic radiator: l = length; h = height.

Preparation for connecting bimetallic heating radiators

Prior to correctly connecting bimetallic heating radiators, make sure that all necessary parts, tools, and devices are available and have been purchased in advance. Typically, an installation kit is bought along with heating radiators so that bimetallic heating batteries can be connected. Everything required, including the brackets for hanging the bimetallic radiator, is included in this kit. There is a specific mounting kit and bracket used for every kind of battery.

Old brackets are frequently used when swapping out heating radiators for comparable models. In this instance, it’s important to confirm that the old brackets are silent and have not corroded. Their condition can only be assessed by a qualified specialist-sanitary engineer with practical experience.

Radiator resistance scheme using bimetal.

If you intend to replace them, you will also need to buy extra pipes and details. Reinforced polypropylene pipes are typically installed with steel rather than steel pipes. Using metal-plastic products with canging clamps is not advised. Investing in high-quality taps from a reputable manufacturer is advised for connecting. Two taps are required to turn off the heating radiator entirely. Two additional taps can be added to the radiator and bypassed to change the heating batteries’ temperature. For precise temperature control of the radiators, an additional thermostat is installed.

Assemble the instruments, supplies, and gadgets required to join bimetallic radiators, specifically:

• the bimetallic radiator itself;
• appropriate mounting kit;
• Americans;
• taps;
• dynamometric keys;
• water capacity;
• drill;
• building level;
• pencil.

Go back to the contents table.

Bimeting heating radiators connection options

It is important to take into account the options that are available for connecting heating devices in accordance with the types of heating systems, specifically pipeline wiring options. The layout of the room’s pipelines and wiring, which determine how the bimetallic heating batteries are connected, directly affects the plan.

There are two commonly used wiring options: single-pipe and two-pipe systems.

Plans for a heating system with a single pipe.

When using a single-pipe system, the coolant cools the radiators progressively as it travels through the supply pipe. Stated differently, the pipeline’s supply "turns" into the opposite in this instance.

In a two-pipe heating system, radiator connections are made in a parallel manner rather than consistently as in a single-pipe system. In other words, the supply and reverse branches are unrelated to one another, and the heating system’s final device serves as the conduit for their connection.

Nearly all bimetallic radiators have four potential connection points—two lower and two upper—and are unified for any kind of connection. Plugs and an air valve (Maevsky crane, air carrier, etc.) required for clearing air "traffic jams" must be included in the kit.

Go back to the contents table.

Typical connection of radiators

In apartment buildings, the feed and return pipe (the radiator pipe) is most frequently connected in a single direction. In such buildings, a system with attic (upper) wiring is typically configured. If only a few sections of the connected battery (no more than fifteen) are used, the effectiveness of such a connection is nearly 100%.

Diagonal connections—that is, connections made from top to bottom from different sides—are utilized in the course of water movement for heating radiators with fifteen or more sections. Of all the battery sections, this scheme offers the most consistent heating, and the heating flow value is as near to the passport as feasible. The drawback of this kind of addition is that water that flows through each battery in turn loses a significant amount of its temperature indicator.

Diagram for a two-pipe, vertical heating system.

The riser or branch of thermal pressure from the final devices will have a large length. Consequently, two-pipe designs are the only applications for this type of strapping.

Although there is a lesser bilateral connection as well, they make an effort to avoid it. Lower connected heating batteries provide the room with approximately 12–15% less thermal energy from the device’s passport power. Nonetheless, the heating system’s design frequently necessitates connecting this, particularly in private homes where pipelines are installed close to the floor. Because the materials used to make bimetallic radiators have a high thermal conductivity value, connecting them to the heating system helps you minimize heat transfer value loss.

Go back to the contents table.

Features and nuances of connecting bimetallic heating radiators

Diagonally connecting bimetallic heating batteries is the best configuration. In practically every circumstance, this is a win-win solution that is advised. This kind of connection scheme is especially important when installing radiators from several sections. Using more than 12 sections is not advised for gravity systems.

Installing two batteries with seven sections each will be preferable to one with fourteen sections, in any event. With fewer sections—typically four to eight—the lateral connection is similar to the diagonal method. The effectiveness of the diagonal connection starts to greatly outperform the lower and lateral connection with an additional increase in the number of sections.

Regarding the paint and enamel used to cover the bimetallic radiator, a very significant note should be made. To avoid damaging the paint, be as precise as possible when connecting the bimetallic batteries. If the paint is damaged during installation, it may eventually start to peel when wet or even just when moisture from the air comes into contact with it.

Bimetal radiator wiring configurations.

Chips, flaws, scratches, and other damage to paint or enamel must be quickly covered to stop the damage from growing larger and the paint from peeling in order to avoid such unpleasant outcomes. Having paint underneath your heating radiator in your hand would be very beneficial. Purchasing it is unquestionably worthwhile.

It’s essential to stop further potential harm. For this reason, it is preferable if a skilled professional with prior experience connecting heating radiators does the work. Bimetallic radiators are frequently wrapped in cellophane, which is often left on until the installation and connection process is complete.

Go back to the contents table.

Step -by -step instructions for connecting bimetallic heating radiators

Prior to ordering the mounting set in the appropriate size, you must determine the diameter of the supply pipes. Make sure all the components needed to connect the radiators you chose are present. This will require:

• air drilling valve;
• 2 adapter;
• adapter under the valve of Maevsky;
• cork;
• brackets;
• gaskets for a plug and adapter.

In order to connect bimetallic radiators, the capacity must be appropriately prepared. Block the water and remove the leftovers from the heating system to accomplish this. While it’s necessary to support the threaded connections of the outlet and supply pipes, disassemble the old battery.

Drawing for a bimetallic radiator screen.

Note where the fasteners are. Connect pipes to a heating radiator to accomplish this. Utilizing the construction level, check horizontal. The fasteners should then be noted with a pencil. To accomplish this, fasten the fasteners to the installation location.

The holes in the previously designated locations must be made with the appropriate diameter. A perforator is utilized for this. Dowels are used to secure fasteners. Take into consideration that three mounts are sufficient for the bimetallic radiator’s eighth and smaller sections. When there are more sections, four fasteners are required.

Plug in the battery and attach the mounts. The horizontal collector must be installed so that it is on hooks. Furthermore, it should be noted that the primary characteristic of the bimetallic battery connection is that the heating unit must, as previously indicated, be kept inside the package until the entire installation is finished and no performance test is conducted.

Fit the Maevsky valve to any battery that is intended to be included in the delivery set. A dynamometric key must be used to tighten the valve. This will enable you to stay within the allowed voltage range. Install locking reinforcement and thermoregulatory mechanisms.

Bimetallic radiators are finally connected to the heating systems’ thermal wires. Using sandpaper or a file to clean the connected surfaces is prohibited. This may cause leaks to form.

Connection of bimetallic heating radiators. Comparative characteristic with other types of batteries. Connection and installation schemes

Since the connection diagram for bimetallic heating radiators differs from that of other heating device types, we will discuss the general guidelines for battery installation instead. We’ll discuss some subtleties and features and walk you through connecting a bimetallic heating radiator at the same time.

Interior bimetallic radiator in the room with a lower connection.

Your home’s heating system’s effectiveness and efficiency can be greatly increased by connecting bimetallic heating radiators. In comparison to conventional radiators, these radiators are made of two distinct metals—typically steel and aluminum—which provide superior heat conductivity and durability.

Bimetallic radiators’ capacity to heat up fast and disperse heat evenly throughout the space is one of their main advantages. This implies that you won’t have to wait for the room to warm up in order to enjoy a consistent and comfortable temperature.

Furthermore, bimetallic radiators have a longer lifespan and require less maintenance over time because of their increased resistance to rust and corrosion. They are therefore an affordable and dependable choice for heating your house.

To optimize the efficiency of bimetallic radiators, it is crucial to guarantee correct installation when connecting them. This entails making use of the appropriate piping, fittings, and valves to avoid leaks and guarantee peak performance.

All things considered, purchasing bimetallic heating radiators can improve your family’s comfort and warmth while resulting in long-term energy bill savings. To benefit from a more sustainable and effective home heating solution, think about replacing your old heating system with one of these contemporary radiators.

Video on the topic

Ways to connect radiators from the wall // Forumhouse

How to connect a heating radiator with your own hands. Two -pipe heating system.

Connection of heating radiators. Which is better: lateral, diagonal, lower?

Installation of a steel panel radiator with a side connection