Colling stove for heating a house

Comfort and energy efficiency go hand in hand when it comes to keeping your house warm and comfortable during the winter. With so many different heating options available, homeowners are constantly searching for new and creative ways to minimize energy costs while maintaining a comfortable indoor temperature. The cooling stove, a multipurpose heating device that provides warmth and efficiency, is one such solution that is becoming more and more popular.

The cooling stove differs from conventional heating techniques thanks to its special operating principle. The cooling stove uses an alternative mechanism that involves cooling the combustion gases before they exit the flue, in contrast to traditional wood stoves or central heating systems, which primarily rely on combustion to generate heat. This creative method is a sustainable way to heat your house because it maximizes heat output while minimizing energy waste.

The remarkable efficiency with which a cooling stove converts fuel into heat is one of its main advantages. This stove ensures that less energy escapes through the chimney by extracting more heat from the combustion process by cooling the exhaust gases. In the long run, this results in cost savings for homeowners because they can enjoy a warmer indoor environment while using fewer resources.

Furthermore, a cooling stove’s usefulness goes beyond its capacity for heating. Many models have dual purposes in mind, acting as fashionable focal points in your living area in addition to being effective heaters. With a range of sizes, styles, and finishes to choose from, you can select a cooling stove that will both complement the aesthetics of your house and offer dependable warmth during the winter months.

Investigate a cooling stove’s features and advantages in-depth before choosing one for your home’s heating requirements. This cutting-edge heating appliance offers a number of benefits, including energy efficiency and aesthetic appeal, that make it an appealing option for homeowners looking for cost-effective, comfortable, and sustainable heating solutions.

Stove Model	Features
Wood-burning stove	Efficient heating, traditional ambiance
Pellet stove	Automated fueling, eco-friendly

What are caps

The principle of operation of the caps

The majority of furnace structures work by either heating the masonry directly through the energy released during combustion or indirectly through the intricate network of internal channels that heated gases pass through.

The initial iteration of the heating structure’s heat transfer is directly correlated with wall thickness; the thicker the walls, the higher the heat capacity indicators. The drawback of this design is that it uses excessive amounts of fuel to warm up a large structure. The stove "shares" warmth with the surrounding air as it gradually cools down after the fuel has finished burning.

With its intricate internal channel system, the heating furnace design warms up more evenly; however, this version of the design places more restrictions on the height of the chimney pipe that must be created in order to provide stable traction. Furthermore, extra caution needs to be used in monitoring the purity of the furnace’s numerous narrow channels. There are a lot of channels in this maze, which makes them the most susceptible to the development of traffic jams that decrease traction.

The direction in which gas flows and the cap’s basic mechanism of operation

In contrast to the previously mentioned designs, large stoves have two connected contours that build up heat, which minimizes these drawbacks to the absolute minimum.

Because of the outer contour, which also serves as a smokehror canal, the internal circuit around or close to the combustion chamber retains heat for a longer period of time. Because the air heated in the firebox exits through the furnace’s entire design, the stove cools much more slowly as a result of this design.

The lower and upper caps of two-colp furnaces are the two heated areas. Heated air circulates in the lower cap similarly to that of a stove cap, but instead of entering the pipe, it enters the upper cap where it fills and warms it. Then and only then does he approach the chimney.

Varieties of capacious heating furnaces

Engineer Kuznetsov and IN have the honorary right to be regarded as the inventors of the Kolpak furnaces. He has created over 150 models based on this basic idea, all of which are meant to heat different kinds of spaces. Simultaneously, he developed models with a very wide range of dimensions, operational parameters, and functionality, all of which are dependent on the location of furnace caps.

Among the most common are what are known as two-colp furnaces, where the caps are arranged one on top of the other. These designs don’t take up much space in the room because of their extremely small dimensions.

A very small sample of models of caps of Kuznetsov’s development are shown in the illustration.

According to the official website, Kuznetsov’s stoves are heating structures with an acronym name. For that reason, you can concentrate on understanding these letter designations when selecting a particular model for your needs:

• IOK – heating version of the furnace.
• OVIK-a heating-welding furnace of ceramic brick, without the use of a firepower for laying a furnace chamber.
• OVIK BC-heating-welding furnace equipped with a side fireplace.
• OVIK ZK-heating-welding structure in which the fireplace is located from the back.
• Ovik L-heating-welding furnace with a stove.
• PKIK1K – stoves equipped with a caloriece.
• BIK – BAND OF.
• RTC – Russian stove with a cap of.

The initial "D" is appended to the abbreviation if the stove has an oven.

Naturally, whole models of models—characterized by their size, configuration, and operational parameters—are concealed behind these abbreviations.

Some features

It makes sense to concentrate on a few features now. When selecting such a design for the construction of your own home, you should be aware of the following:

• Unlike other options, in the caps of Kuznetsov, the furnace chamber is almost completely isolated from the cap. Most often, fire -resistant chamotis brick is used for its masonry, since the temperature inside the chamber can reach 1000 ÷ 1200 degrees. Shamot and ordinary bricks have different density, so it is necessary to create a temperature gap between them, since when heating and expansion, the masonry will go cracks. This gap is usually about 5 mm. But in order to increase heat transfer from one material to another, this space is filled with asbestos sheet or basalt cardboard.
• One of the features is the presence of a “dry” seam in a furnace chamber, the width of which is 20 ÷ 30 mm. Such a gap helps the creation of better traction, but at the same time, it retains the optimal temperature regime inside the firebox, since fuel combustion products go through it gradually.
• In the caps of caps, Rodge tanks and oven do not have direct contact with hot gases and open fire. These elements are located in the upper cap of the structure, where the temperature does not exceed 400 degrees. Such heating is safe for the integrity of the metal, but at the same time this temperature is enough for its full heating.

The "dry" seam always connects to the channel that is attached to the cap, even though it may be found in various locations along the walls of the caps.

• For caps of caps there will be a sufficiently shorter chimney. In this case, its initial task is to withdraw the products of combustion, and only in the second turn – the creation of traction for the furnace.
• Some caps have an efficiency reaching 80%, while in other brick heating structures it most often does not exceed 60 ÷ 65%. Due to the compact size of the furnace chamber, economical fuel consumption is ensured. So, firewood consumption is sometimes reduced by 25 ÷ 40% compared to stoves that have direct -flowing of combustion products.

Advantages of caps

Now, let’s talk about the benefits of capacious furnaces over alternative heating brick structure designs. Among the specific benefits are the following:

• Their construction requires much less building material – both brick itself and a solution for its masonry.
• Masonry of a cap of a cap is much easier and faster, since the design does not have an excessively large number of internal channels. Therefore, the diagram of the oven of the furnace is usually easily read even by a novice master.
• Due to the fact that a smaller amount of brick is used to build, the furnace has a much smaller mass. smaller weight. Therefore, it does not need to equip a particularly massive foundation for it, as, for example, for multi -channel models.
• In the almost isolated furnace of the cap of fuel, burning fuel occurs more intensively, therefore, after burning the fuel, the minimum amount of solid waste remains. Thanks to this, the walls of the furnace chamber, as well as the internal surfaces of the chimney, will be less covered with a raid from the products of combustion of firewood.
• The ease of maintenance of caps of caps is also attracted – they are much easier to clean from accumulated soot than narrow channels of other structures.

The cap’s heating and welding furnace

• If desired, any cap -based design can be easily supplemented with an oven or a hot water tank, since there is usually enough space in its cap to place them.
• The oven is most often located in the upper part of the furnace, that is, in the upper cap. If her oven is in the lower cap, then it is protected from the direct effect of fire with the wall of the furnace chamber. Therefore, around the metal box of the oven, a temperature is created no higher than 400, and inside it – about 200 ÷ 250 degrees. The circulation of hot gases inside the cap around the oven helps the same heating distribution. Therefore, the dishes preparing in such a stove are baked from all sides evenly.
• Colling structures are rapidly warming up, so in the rooms the expected temperature level is achieved in a fairly short time.
• The walls of such models warm up evenly, which provides higher heat transfer to the premises of the house.

How to determine the required thermal power of a cap of a cap?

Making the right choice regarding the chosen model’s operating parameters is essential if you want the stove to function well and heat the house thoroughly. Its size and thermal power (heat transfer) are, of course, these.

The furnace’s heat transfer capacity should be appropriate for the size of the rooms it will be used to heat.

As a result, you must ascertain the area of the building that needs to be heated before selecting a particular furnace. In addition, potential heat losses—which happen in every home, even ones with excellent insulation—are prevented.

The thickness of the stove masonry must also be considered, as this parameter directly affects the stove’s capacity to accumulate.

Because there are numerous factors to consider, accurately calculating parameters is a challenging task requiring specialized knowledge. If there is no desire to get in touch with the experts, you can complete an initial "outflow" using the indicators that each home owner has access to. Thus, pay close attention to the following ratios:

• For a qualitatively insulated house, 0.5 kW of the furnace power per 10 m² of area will be required.
• If the house is located in regions with pronounced cold winters, this parameter should be taken with a margin, for example, 0.75 kW/10 m².

It is best to use ready-made projects, where the calculations are made by their developers and specified in the structure description, if there is no experience with such calculations—which is most often the case. Building projects are displayed on specialized websites in a wide variety. A large assortment of models with different sizes and thermal capacities are available there.

Preparatory processes before the construction of the furnace

After choosing the furnace model, there are a few things to get ready before firing it up. It is important to think about the events that make up this lengthy stage and highly event-packed environment so that they are not surprising.

Thus, let’s get started:

• The choice of a specific place for the construction of the furnace.
• Creating a reliable foundation.
• Protection of the parts of the house of the house from high temperatures located to the furnace.
• Preparation of a laying solution.
• Acquisition and preparation of individual stove design nodes.
• Preparation of the necessary tools.

We’ll talk about these events in the publication’s current section.

Choosing a place for the construction of a brick furnace

Choosing the installation field for the stove requires consideration of the following factors in order for it to comply with current fire safety regulations when in use, particularly if it is built in a wooden house:

• The structure should be located at a distance of at least 100 mm from the walls of the house.

The distinction between the non-combustible walls next to the oven and those made of flammable material

• If the furnace is planned to be built into the already previously built wall, then between the end of the wall and brick masonry it is necessary to provide a layer of heat -resistant material, for example, asbestos or basalt cardboard.

Rubish is a unique thickening of the chimney walls to provide a secure path through the overlap of the attic.

• The chimney pipe should pass through the ceiling design between the beams, and the distance between them and masonry should be at least 150 mm.

The ability to route this pipe between the roof rafters and ceiling beams is first taken into consideration when deciding where to install a stove with a brick chimney.

• At the same time, the location of the rafters of the roof structure is also taken into account. Between them and brickwork, the same distance should be provided.

Foundation for building a furnace

The dependability of the foundation upon which the furnace will be constructed is the primary factor that directly influences how long the furnace will remain out of service.

• If the foundation under the stove is built along with the foundation of the house, it must be remembered that these two designs should not hardly contact each other. Foundation shrinkage can occur unevenly due to a very different load on them. It is unacceptable for a mutual influence to have a mutual influence – this can lead to deformations of both the stove and the walls of the house.

Foundation for the furnace’s construction that is situated separately.

• If it is decided to build the furnace in a ready -made house, then at the place of its construction you will have to dismantle part of the plank floor in order to equip a foundation pit in the ground underground for pouring the foundation. It should be borne in mind that the foundation perimeter should be more than 50 ÷ 80 mm of the base of the furnace structure.
• If the house was erected on a slab foundation and, of course, you will have to install it on it too, then for heating it is worth choosing the most lightweight structures if possible. It’s just that it’s hard to come up with something better than a cap of a cap.

Pile for constructing a stove’s foundation.

• The first thing to do when arranging the foundation is to dig a pit of the corresponding size. The depth of the pit will directly depend on the height of the floor above the ground underground. In total, the height of the base of the base should be 300 ÷ 500 mm.

Pulverized stone backfill, isolated from the ground by a geotextile layer

• The created plate must be protected from soil moisture. To do this, a layer of sand is poured and tamped to the bottom of the pit, about 80 ÷ 100 mm – this excludes the capillary "sucking" of water from below. Then a gravel or gravel pillow is laid, also with a thorough compaction. All this "puff" design will become much more reliable if it is separated from the soil from the soil from geotextiles.

Formwork for applying a waterproofing film to the inside of the closed foundation. Inside, there are reinforcement nets arranged.

• If the distance between the soil and the surface of the “clean” floor is quite large, then the formwork is necessary for the entire height to fill the foundation. The formwork is closed with a dense plastic film, and then several rows of reinforcing mesh are mounted in it, the distance between which should be 100 ÷ 120 mm. The surface of the foundation should be in the same plane with the final floor or be higher than it, approximately 100 mm.

It is important that you remember the movie. Since there isn’t really anywhere to take water here, its function in shielding the future plate from moisture isn’t as important. But it’s crucial to stop water from entering the flooded solution! If not, it will be impossible to prevent a violation of the water-to-cement ratio, which means that ideal conditions for the concrete’s maturation will not be produced and the foundation may end up being of low quality.

Pouring concrete into formwork

• The next step is the preparation of concrete solution and filling the pit. There are no significant dynamic loads on the created plate, so there is no special sense in striving with excessively high stroke strength of concrete. Practice shows that it is quite possible to limit yourself to the M200 brand (B15).

The reader can use the calculator below to determine how many basic ingredients (cement, sand, crushed stone or gravel, water) are needed to independently prepare the appropriate amount of concrete solution. Two calculation options are available when using the PC400 and PC500 stamp cement.

Calculator calculating the number of ingredients for independent preparation of concrete solution

To get the maximum seal of a flooded solution, concrete must be used to fill the pit and formwork. Naturally, using specialized equipment, such as a deep vibrator or vibration, is the best course of action. However, not everyone possesses this skill; as a result, a thorough "bayoning" of concrete with a shovel and cutting of reinforcement is an alternative; it is imperative to eradicate any potential air bubbles.

The stove’s upper edge is promptly attempted to be level and horizontal. Usually, this is also supplied during the formwork installation phase. The upper board’s end sides serve as beacons and guides to level the surface in accordance with the rule. Of course, there might be additional options. Installing metal beacon profiles is one of them.

• After pouring, when the surface of the concrete begins to grasp, it is advisable to cover it with plastic wrap. This will help to avoid the rapid drying out of the surface layers, which can lead to cracks. Within a week, abundant moisturization of ripening concrete is carried out daily.

The ideal conditions for ripening and setting strength must be established for the concrete piled in a pit and formwork.

One week later, the film can be taken off, and ten to fourteen days later, the formwork can be disassembled. However, the slab won’t be completely ready to proceed with additional construction until four weeks have passed since the filling date.

A roofing material sheet is used to waterproof the completed foundation.

• The foundation ready for laying the stove is covered with waterproofing material, as which roofing material is most often used.

Pantry solution

Selecting a furnace installation solution is a crucial step. Given the frequent extremes in temperature that the structure’s walls will experience, the mixture needs to have a unique composition that, when frozen, will prevent either cracking or crumbling.

The masonry solution can be purchased already completed or made on your own.

• Making a home -made solution is a difficult, very long task and requiring special knowledge and considerable patience. The fact is that clay is the main ingredient in the furnace solution. This substance should have a certain fat content, determine in the view or by the touch that is in an inexperienced person is difficult. Therefore, making the mixture, you have to go through experiments, preparing several options from all the ingredients, adding them in different proportions. In this case, it is necessary to wait for the complete drying of experimental samples, and only then determine which of the options seems optimal.

The majority of the time, field masters create their own masonry solutions. But the knowledge that has grown over time.

However, before beginning the experiments, appropriate clay needs to be located, gathered, cleaned of organic inclusions (roots, etc.), and then soaked for a predetermined amount of time. It is only after that you can choose the ratios of sand to clay that are used to make the masonry mixture. In this sense, stovers have historically provided a solution for masonry; many experts now accept this method.

• Today on sale you can find ready -made options for heat -resistant masonry compositions designed for the construction of fireplaces and furnaces. They are sold in the form of dry building mixtures with packing in paper bags. Therefore, in order not to waste time and not “conjure” with the selection of proportions with a high probability to make a mistake, it is best to use the finished composition.

Ready-to-use dry mixture for stockpiling a pantry for fireplaces and stoves.

The components and their ratios were carefully chosen for the factory-prepared mixtures. Additionally, the manufacturers made sure that the materials used to build one or more sections of this structure matched the mixtures used to lay furnaces. For example, a solution based on chamotopic clay and sand is produced for laying a furnace chamber, for which the heat-resistant version of the brick is most frequently used.

Ready mixtures are kneaded strictly according to the manufacturer’s instructions, which are printed on the package. Making a masonry solution won’t be difficult if you follow it.

Costs for a variety of dry pantry

The mixture is dry pantry

Which brick is appropriate for use in masonry? This publication downplays this crucial matter. But only because the special publication on our portal delves deeply into the nuances of selecting brick for furnace laying.

Features of the installation of individual stove design nodes

All of the furnace structure’s components must be mounted and fixed correctly in order for them to be installed correctly and to prevent falling out of service. Thus, in addition to other masonry quirks, this subsection of the article will address how to install and protect the heating structure’s metal components:

• The first thing that will largely affect the evenness of the laying of the furnace, its corners and walls is the original evenness of the surface of the foundation and the correctness, the straightness of the angles of the first row. Therefore, in addition to checking the surface of the plate using the building level, it is recommended to indicate on the waterproofing material (roofing material) the exact location of the external sides and the angles of the base of the furnace. That is, in fact, draw a perimeter using a chalk. This will simplify the withdrawal of the first row, which will become “reference” for the rest of the order.
• The prints on individual sheets of paper of each of the masonry rows will also add convenience in work. Naturally, these schemes must be numbered.

At least 150 mm should separate the ends of the wire that will hold the doors in the masonry.

• All the frames of metal doors (fireboxes, treatment and blowing chambers) are fixed in the masonry using steel wire. In order for the doors to stand motionless before their final fixing, they can temporarily support them on both sides with bricks free from work.

There was basalt surrounding the furnace door frame.

• Metal structural elements that will be exposed to high temperatures, for example, a combustion door, a hot water tank, an oven, etc.D., should not directly contact brickwork, as they have a different expansion coefficient.

Utilizing an asbestos-based gasket to prepare the hob seat.

Consequently, a minimum of 5 mm space should be left between them, filled with heat-resistant materials such as basalt cardboard or asbestos.

Utilizing compliance calibration inserts with a uniform seam thickness between each row of masonry

• The thickness of the stove masonry seams should be greater than when performing the construction of the walls of the house, as they will be constantly heated and cool. Therefore, experienced stovers often recommend holding a thickness of 7 ÷ 10 mm. In addition, such a thickness increases the maintainability of the already operated furnace – there will be the possibility of neat dismantling individual masonry elements, if it is necessary.

Temporary wooden rifles or steel rods can be used to achieve uniform seam thickness and evenness. These are removed after the solution has set initially, and the spaces left by them are filled in with a mixture of masonry materials.

Seams in brick masonry.

• If the furnace is not planned to be lined with decorative material or plaster, then the seams are carefully decorated with a special tool “embroidering”, which can give the seams a convex, pressed or even form.

You can set up plumb to continuously check that the corners are straight and level along their vertical length.

• So that the surfaces of the walls of the furnace and all the formed corners are even, along them are pulled on estimated cords. In addition, in the process of performing the work, constant monitoring of the evenness of the masonry is carried out using a plumb line, level, corner. This makes it possible to correct irregularities on time, even in the process of laying, until the solution of the solution.
• To strengthen the laying of the walls of the furnace, many masters in each second row in the seam lay a steel wire up to 5 mm thick.
• Ready -made stoves cannot be immediately subjected to high temperature loads, heating them to their full power, since masonry can go cracks. Therefore, the erected structure is first dried. To do this, all doors and valves open completely, and the furnace is left for drying in natural conditions for about a week. Then, a regular 200 W incandescent lamp can be adapted to the drying process, which is placed inside the firebox and left turned on until the solution is visible – in addition to increasing temperature, it will maintain a more active air circulation necessary for drying.

After that, you can use 2 × 3 kg of well-dried firewood or paper, straw, chips, or other materials to create trial furnaces. Two to three times a day, a comparable "lightweight" firebox can be generated. Additionally, the oven should only be fully melted after the structure has finished drying out.

It is very easy to check the traction in the oven. Bringing a lit match or a piece of paper to an ajar door is sufficient. The side of the furnace chamber should be illuminated by the flame.

• It must be borne in mind that when the furnace is first tested by fire, the design can smoke due to excess moisture. However, when the stove dries well, good traction should be created in it, and all combustion products should go into the chimney. If the reverse traction is constantly formed, and smoke goes into the room, then this indicates a perfect error during the construction of the furnace.

Masonry tools for stoves

Tools must be ready before beginning any masonry work. You can probably find a few of them in a home workshop.

Main equipment needed to lay the furnace.

The following tools are included in the list of everything that is required:

1. Kirka is required in order to divide brick into its component parts.

2. The solution that falls inside the stove is cleaned out of the channels using the panicle.

3. The building corner is utilized to control the evenness of the furnace laying as well as to mark bricks when dividing them into sections.

4-The plumb line also aids in maintaining the vertical surfaces’ evenness and angles.

5. The brick can also be split into pieces and have its surfaces tightened with a hammer-pick.

6-To separate small particles from brick, passatigi are employed.

7 – The horizontal rows of masonry are aligned with bricks using a rubber hammer.

8. The chisel breaks the brick into pieces that make up the necessary arrangement.

9 – During masonry, a variety of sized and shaped wizards, or Celms, are employed to apply a solution.

10. The horizontal and vertical surfaces’ evenness is regulated by this rule.

11- The lead devil is a useful tool for marking bricks, particularly when laying tile for the stove’s interior.

12-a Chukalts is a section of the tile-processing pipeline.

13- A wooden blade to rub and knead the mixture.

14- The brick was marked with a metal rod, or "devil," before it was divided into sections.

The construction level, or 15, can be used alone or in conjunction with the rule to continuously check the horizontal and vertical alignment of the surfaces arranged in rows.

16-Rashpil: They eliminate the inflow of a frozen solution and precisely handle brick fragments to provide the necessary shape in the end.

17-Expanding is used to give the masonry seams the required structure and order.

Furthermore, a container is required for the solution preparation.

Here, a list of every tool used by experts in the furnace’s construction is provided. You can select the ones from this list that are particularly important for the master’s vision.

In this article, we"ll explore the innovative solution of using a cooling stove for heating your house. Unlike traditional heating methods, a cooling stove offers a unique approach by utilizing the principle of cooling to generate warmth. Essentially, it works by drawing in cool air, heating it within the stove, and then circulating the warm air throughout your home. This not only provides efficient heating but also improves indoor air quality by filtering out impurities. Additionally, cooling stoves are often more environmentally friendly and cost-effective compared to conventional heating systems, making them a compelling option for homeowners looking to reduce their carbon footprint and energy bills. So, if you"re seeking a sustainable and efficient way to keep your house warm during the colder months, a cooling stove might just be the solution you"ve been searching for.

Two-colp heating-welding furnace

This section of the publication will introduce the "Big Kroch," a modified version of Kuznetsov’s model. The hob’s size is one area where models in this series differ from one another, though. Originally, "Big Baby" had a double-context plate installed. Additionally, the plate in the option shown below has a single burner.

A double-grade hob version of the "Big Kroch" furnace, which has two legs.

The purpose of this modification was to increase the lower cap’s size. Because of the increased heat transfer from the furnace’s surfaces, you can heat the house’s rooms considerably more quickly.

Some design features, the necessary materials

The hob and fuel chambers on the OVIK4 furnace are located on different sides of the structure, in contrast to the development depicted in it. Because there is no chance of getting burned by the heated furnace door, this convenient placement actually increases user safety.

Kuznetsov’s single-burner heating-welding cap

The single-burner hob measures 410 x 340 mm. This camera has the option to have a door installed, which will allow it to function as an oven when needed.

Because of the "summer" move in the design, you can use the plate exclusively for cooking during the warm months without having to heat the furnace’s interior walls. This feature makes it easy for the furnace to melt, even after being inactive for a while.

The fact that this design can be made above or below, if needed, adds to its convenience during construction. Thus, the arrangement of brickwork is 22 × 27 rows. If you need to raise the furnace a little bit, you can add two rows of brick in this spot with the same arrangement; this will raise the furnace’s height by 140 mm. In the event that the house has low ceilings, you can take the opposite action, removing two rows to lower the furnace’s height by the same 140 mm.

Since the design has been entirely removed from the ceramic brick, it can be installed nationwide—that is, when regular use is not anticipated.

5 × 11 rows of refractory chamotte brick can be laid out when building a furnace in a home where heating will occur on a regular basis.

The furnace measures 770 x 770 mm and has a height of 2100 mm. Heat transfer from a one-time firebox is 2 kW, and if you drown twice a day, it can be as high as 3.3 kW. The furnace has a 25 m³ heating capacity.

In order to construct the furnace, 411 bricks will be needed, not including the chimney. Together with them, the following supplies will need to be ready:

-door (250 x 210 mm, one piece) for Topka DT-3;

A single 250 x 140 DPP (p) blower door;

-door for maintaining camera cleanliness 3 pieces, DPR-4, 130 x 130 mm;

– one 300 x 250 mm grate;

– one single-end hob measuring 410 x 340 mm;

– 130 x 130 mm, one piece "summer" passage valve;

– one stove chimney valve, measuring 250 by 130 mm;

– One piece, 450 x 30 x 30 x 4 mm steel corner;

Predicted steel sheet, 700 x 500 mm, one piece.

Stove in the section: it doesn’t seem like there are any intricate mazes in the design.

The arrangement of all the metal components inside the furnace, the design of the caps, and the positions of the channels within them all make the structure of the furnace evident.

Due to its small size and relatively straightforward construction, this stove is not even very powerful for its power. The most important thing is that the elements of the elementary process must be strictly followed.

Maybe you’d like to know more about what a shiver is—a heating stove.

The scheme-border of the stove masonry

The table below displays the symbols for non-standard bricks in the masonry to aid in understanding the row schemes.

A few designations to help with the order of future work

Lastly, the laid furnace masonry is displayed in the table. When the chimney is not included, a total of 32 rows of bricks need to be laid out.

Masonry scheme	A brief description of a series and performed bargains
	So, the first row is laid on the prepared foundation (on a layer of waterproofing) and should be in the same plane with a clean floor. This series is especially important, since it is he who sets the evenness of the masonry of the subsequent rows. The seams between bricks should be 5 mm and be the same. The external dimensions of the series shown in the diagram are indicative. The true dimensions will appear after the completion of the installation of the brick of the first row. It will be necessary to adhere to them, laying the subsequent ranks. For the first row, 18 pieces of red brick will be required.
	In the second row of masonry, a blowing (ash) camera begins to form, as well as the base of the lower cap. To clean the lower part of the cap, a DPR-4 door, which has a size of 130 × 130 mm, is mounted in the furnace wall. In addition to it, the DPP blur door (P) 250 × 140 mm is also installed. The second row consists of 11 red bricks.
	The third row is laid according to the presented scheme, and its feature is that in addition to entire bricks, it uses its processed fragments. Moreover, as you can see, the corners of two bricks forming a hole for installing a door to clean the cap, shy to a semicircular state. This configuration will greatly simplify the process of cleaning. For this series, it is necessary to prepare 11 and ½ brick.
	The fourth row overlaps the doors of the blowing and caps. In addition, partially from the front and back, the channel located behind the ash chamber overlaps. The hole left above the ash chamber must have dimensions 260 × 260 mm, that is, brick brick, taking into account the seams. POINTING will require 14 red bricks.
	The fifth row. The front and rear bricks, dedicated to orange in the diagram, have a size of 95 ÷ 100 mm width. The upper surface of these bricks is stuck obliquely. The distance between these bricks should be 310 mm. This will be a landing place for a grate, while it will rest against the protruding parts of the bricks of the previous, fourth row. The space of the lower cap is divided into two vertical channels with brick. The channel close to the front will become connective for the lower and upper cap. The distant space in the upper part will be equipped with a valve of the "summer" passage. A brick that separates the space from the front, from the bottom is cut obliquely, which will contribute to the better departure of smoke through the hole. On the diagram, the cut part is highlighted in gray. To lay the 5th row, you will need 14 and ½ red brick.
	Further, after the completion of the masonry of the fifth row, on the designated hole (seat), a grate is mounted 300 × 250 mm. The lattice is laid without a solution, between it and the brick framing it should remain a gap of 5 mm. The front and rear gap is filled with dry fine fractional sand.
	On the sixth row, the door of the fuel chamber DT-3 250 × 210 mm is mounted. Between the door and the brick should also be a gap that should be filled with heat -resistant material. As mentioned above, an asbestos cord is used to create such a gap, with which the door frame is wrapped around the perimeter. The door frame is mounted in masonry using a wire, which should be buried in the seams by at least 150 mm. Instead of wire, special Klyammers made of metal with a thickness of at least 2 mm can be used. These elements are fixed to the upper and lower part of the door frame, and their protruding sides are built into the masonry seams. For a series, 12 pieces of red brick will be required.
	Seventh row. In the right corner of the fuel chamber, a gap of 20 mm wide is left between the bricks – it is called a “dry” seam. This gap is designed to withdraw from the fuel chamber of ballast gases, which significantly improves the process of combustion of fuel in the furnace. The amount of brick – 11 and ½ pieces.
	The eighth row is laid out according to the shown scheme, the "dry" seam is preserved. for this series will also require 11 and ½ brick.
	Ninth row. To cover the door of the fuel chamber on the right side, the brick is released forward, and its left side must be cut obliquely. Brick, laid on the right side, is cut to the entire thickness so that the lower brick of the 8th row forms a platform with a width of 25 ÷ 30 mm. “dry” seam in the back of the camera is still preserved. RAM will require 12 bricks.
	Further, the end of the ninth row is. The fuel door is completely blocked by a brick, which is slaughtered from the right side from top to bottom, so that it coincides with the cut of the right brick. Kirpich on the left is installed on the site left for it. will require 1 brick.
	Tenth row. The diagram shows cuts that should be made in a brick under the seat under the hob, the metal thickness of which is 5 mm. And it is also necessary to take into account the asbestos laying, approximately 3 mm. The plate should be drowned in the depths of bricks below their surface by 4 mm. Therefore, the depth of the cutouts should have the appropriate value and make up 10 ÷ 12 mm. In the right corner of the fuel chamber, a passage is formed into the channel of the lower cap of the furnace with a width of 60 mm. For laying a row, it is necessary to prepare 12 and ½ brick
	Continuation of the tenth row. After it is laid out, an asbestos cord is laid on the landing place under the hob, which must be impregnated in advance to the storage solution diluted to the liquid consistency. A metal single -end plate is laid on top of it on the seat. Side gaps between metal and brick must be cleaned well, and lay an asbestos cord or basalt cardboard in them. The solution should not get into the gaps. The plate should be drowned in a brick so that the next brick rows do not lie directly on the metal. at the entrance to the hob is mounted a steel corner. This element will perform a protective function for the angle of bricks – to protect them from damage by heavy objects during the operation of the furnace, for example, when installed on the plate of pots with water. on top of the ends of the end of the corner when laying the next row, strips of basalt cardboard with a width of 20 ÷ 25 mm are laid.
	11th row. At this stage, a hob is formed. in the lower part of the brick framing the plate, if desired, you can make cutouts with a height of 5 mm. They are made in case it is necessary to dismantle this metal panel. Thanks to this, the gap will be able to raise the stove up and put forward. To lay this series will require 12 bricks.
	12th and 14th rows are laid out according to the same scheme, and for each of them it will take 12 bricks.
	The 13th and15th ranks are also placed according to the same scheme, and they will also need 12 bricks.
	16th row. On this row, the lower cap and the walls of the hob is overlapped with a brick. Two channels are left open – distant, for the “summer” passage, and the nearby – for connecting the lower and upper caps. in bricks forming the channel of the “summer” passage, it is necessary to make cutouts to install the valve. The dimensions of the cutouts should be such that there is a thermal gap of 5 mm between the metal and the brick. The depth of the cutouts must correspond to the thickness of the valve frame so that it can be “drowned” in a brick. CAMER OF THE CAMER is carried out in the "Castle". For such a connection, four bricks are released forward above the hob, and in their end part are made obliquely. for this series will require 17 bricks.
	Further, on the same row, the valve of the "summer" passage of 130 × 130 mm is mounted. The gaps between the frame and brick are filled with basalt cardboard. At the end of the masonry of this series, two bricks of the remaining space above the hob of the hobby. Previously, bricks are cut obliquely and moved to each other along the corner of the cut.
	17th row. The stove is completely overlap with another layer of brick. For this floor it is necessary to prepare 17 bricks.
	18th row. At this stage, the base of the upper cap is formed. To clean this part of the furnace in this row, two doors size 130 × 130 mm are built into this row. The amount of brick 11 and ½.
	19th row. The rise of the walls of the upper cap continues. Masonry is carried out according to the presented scheme. The amount of brick 11 and ½.
	20th row. This series is also laid out according to the scheme, and it is overlapping cleaning doors. It will take 11 and ½ brick to work.
	21st row. A vertical channel is formed, which will become the main chimney for the furnace. A chimney pipe will be built over it. for smooth rotation of smoke into the channel, at its entrance brick from below is cut obliquely. The number of bricks used is 13 pieces.
	22nd, 24th and 26th rows are laid out according to one scheme. to masonry it will require 13 pieces of brick.
	The 23rd, 25th and 27th rows are also placed according to the same scheme, and for each of them it will also be required for 13 bricks.
	28th row. In the bricks that form the channel of the main chimney, it is necessary to make cutouts for the seat of the smoke valve. The number of bricks is 13 pieces.
	Further, a chimney valve with a size of 250 × 130 mm is installed on the same row. This structure is mounted in the same way as the valve of the “summer” course.
	29th row. At this stage, another continuous overlap of the entire furnace is made, with the exception of the window for the chimney channel. This process will require 19 bricks. Pay attention to the non -standard forms of bricks of this series. Such locking masonry is necessary to give the vault of the upper cap of increased strength.
	30th row. The second overlap of the structure with 17 bricks, but already without special “frills”, that is, direct masonry.
	31st row. The base of the nozzle chimney is laid out, consisting of 5 bricks.
	32 row is the second row of a nozzle chimney. A number also consists of 5 bricks. on this, in fact, the masonry of the furnace itself ends – there will already be a chimney pipe above, the specific dimensions of which depend on the features of the design of the house.

It will now be simpler to choose a suitable model, decide whether to build it yourself or hire a professional stove builder, and understand the basic principles of cap operation as well as all the details of the preparatory and basic operations required for its construction.

We’ll wrap up the publication with a video in which the master meticulously demonstrates how to erect a basic Kolpakaya furnace. Check out the working principle of hydrotherapy by clicking the link.

Selecting the ideal heating system for your house is essential for cost-effectiveness, comfort, and efficiency. We’ve explored the idea of a cooling stove as a practical choice for home heating in this article. With this creative method, you can add warmth and coziness to your entire living space while still retaining the traditional charm of a wood-burning stove and utilizing contemporary technology.

Using the principle of convection, a cooling stove draws cool air from the surrounding space, heats it through combustion, and then releases the heated air back into the room. This organic process ensures even heat distribution throughout your house while also effectively warming it and moving the air around. In contrast to traditional heating systems, which frequently result in temperature fluctuations and hot spots, a cooling stove helps you and your family enjoy a comfortable atmosphere.

A cooling stove’s sustainability is one of its main benefits. You can lessen your dependency on fossil fuels and your carbon footprint by using wood as a renewable energy source. Furthermore, a lot of contemporary cooling stoves are made with high efficiency in mind, which means you can get more heat from less wood over time, saving you money and resources.

A cooling stove’s aesthetic appeal also lends any house a little warmth and personality. You can select a model that offers useful heating solutions and blends in with your interior décor thanks to the variety of designs and finishes that are available. A cooling stove to fit every taste and space is available, regardless of your preference for a sleek, modern design or a more traditional, rustic appearance.

To sum up, a cooling stove presents a strong substitute for traditional heating methods, integrating economy, environmental friendliness, and visual appeal into a single unit. These cutting-edge heating systems lessen your energy expenses and environmental effect while delivering constant warmth and comfort throughout your house by utilizing convection and wood combustion. To make your living area a comfortable retreat for you and your loved ones, think about making an investment in a cooling stove.

Video on the topic

Colling stove for heating a house with an area of 115 square meters.m.!!! Stainless steel casing!!

Masonry of a combined two -colp furnace with two horizontal channels for heating home 50m2

Put the cap for the first time in my life and what came of it

Disadvantages of caps

Kuznetsov furnaces device. What is a cap.

Comparison of a brick heating furnace with cast-iron stoves.Detailed analysis.