Collectors for heating – principle of operation, device and installation

Comfort and economy both depend on how well your home is heated, particularly in colder climates. The use of collectors in heating systems is one creative solution that is becoming more and more popular. These systems heat your house using renewable energy sources, such as solar power, which lessens your dependency on conventional heating techniques and lowers your energy costs.

How then do these collectors operate? All in all, it’s pretty fascinating. The idea behind heating collectors is to use solar energy that is captured by specially made tubes or panels. Typically, these tubes or panels are mounted on a building’s wall or roof, where they can get the most sunlight. Once installed, they take in sunlight, transform it into heat, and transfer that heat to a fluid that is constantly moving within the collector system.

The gadget itself has a very straightforward design but is incredibly effective. Collectors are usually made out of an insulated box with a clear cover to let in sunlight. To improve heat absorption, absorber plates or tubes coated in a dark substance are located inside the box. These plates or tubes heat up when sunlight strikes them, transferring the thermal energy to the fluid that is passing through them.

Installing heating collectors is an essential step to guarantee top performance. It’s crucial to place them where they can get plenty of sunlight all day long; to get the most exposure, they should face south. In order to keep efficiency and stop heat loss, the collectors’ surrounding areas must also be properly sealed and insulated. Installation may need professional help and an initial financial outlay, but it’s an investment worth doing in the long run because of the energy savings and decreased environmental effect.

Why do you need a collector, the principle of operation

This plumbing device has a very basic mechanism. Actually, this is a section of a large-diameter pipe with threaded fittings to connect the water system’s contours. The number of attachments determines the length of the heating comb; typically, the main line is brought to the end.

Reference: Typically, collectors come with outlet pipes that are the same diameter—that is, 0.5… 0.75 from the main chamber section. Depending on the coolant flow rate in the contours and the comb’s intended use, the spacing between the fittings may vary.

What takes place in the collector, where water enters from two to ten parallel branches:

1. From several highways, a coolant with various parameters – temperature, flow rate, flow per unit time, gets into the assembly pipeline.
2. In a large passage of the comb, the speed of the water movement decreases, the hydraulic resistance decreases.
3. Mixing in the main chamber, different streams gain the same temperature and speed at the output.

Therefore, the collector’s job is to gather the coolant, align its parameters, and return it to the boiler via the main line. When it comes to consolidating multiple highways with varying water consumption, hydraulic resistance, and length into a single pipeline, a comb is an essential tool. Attempt to connect these branches on tees; two to three circuits will stop functioning normally right away.

Similar behavior, but in the opposite direction, is exhibited by the heating distribution collector. As it slowly passes through the main camera, the boiler’s water diverges along the secondary lines in the necessary amount.

One exposed pipe without any additional support in the form of cranes, valves, or other components, and processes that are not very useful. The collector assembly assembly offers solutions for a number of significant issues:

• regulate the amount of coolant for each branch, balance them with each other;
• by means to reduce the temperature of the water supplied and maintain it at a given level;
• empty the system, drop air;
• automatically control the microclimate of each room using indoor thermal controllers.

Types of collector nodes

Prior to talking about the different kinds of combs, we’ll go over how they’re used in residential water heating systems:

• distribution and regulation of water temperature in the contours of warm floors, abbreviated – TP;
• the distribution of the coolant to the radiators according to the radial (collector) circuit;
• The total distribution of heat in a large building of a large area with a complex heat supply system.

The collector group in suburban cottages with branched heating consists of the so-called hydraulic shotgun, also known as a thermal hydraulic separator. For six conclusions, this is actually a vertical manifold: Two come from the boiler, two are on a comb, one upper is used to expel air, and the lower is used to dump water.

Furthermore. There are numerous fittings on cascading hydraulic shootings that are directly connected to heating contours. Then, no distributor of the collector type is employed.

The different kinds of dispersing combs are as follows:

1. To limit the temperature of the water, regulation of flow rate and balancing of the contours of the warm floor, special collector blocks made of brass, stainless steel or plastic are used. The size of the connecting opening of the main heating main (at the end of the pipe) – ¾ or 1 inch (DN 20–25), branches – ½ or ¾, respectively (DN 15–20).
2. In radiator radiation schemes, the same combs of floor heating systems are used, but with cut functionality. We will explain the difference below.
3. For the common house distribution of the coolant, large steel collectors are used, the diameter of the connection – over 1 ”(DN 25).

Groups of factory collectors. Homeowners frequently use inexpensive distributors for water supply systems or make their own combs out of polypropylene to save money. Next, we will list the issues that arise when installing homemade water collectors.

Rowman"s device for warm floor

The ideal temperature schedule is 40/30 °C.The coolant supplied to the outdoor heating contours should not be heated above 50 °C. The room will get stuffy and uncomfortable if the floor is heated above thirty degrees.

Only gas boilers can maintain temperatures between 40 and 50 °C, but only at the expense of reduced efficiency. Water needs to be heated to 60 degrees in order to efficiently consume gas or another energy carrier. After that, the temperature at the entrance to the TP loops needs to be lowered. One of the primary functions of the collector block, which is made up of the following components, is this:

• The collector itself is 2 separate tubes (supply and reverse) with wall mounting brackets;
• Thermostatic valves of the pressure with connecting for pipes type "Euroconus";
• Certifers (rotameters) with a scale 0.5 … 5 l/min;
• end blocks with automatic air valves and plum valves;
• blocks of arrow thermometers;
• cutting off ball valves;
• bypass line with bypass valve.

Special nests on the comb are used to insert rotameters and pressure valves, which are then sealed with plastic caps. One side of the collector tubes has air vents with drain valves screwed into the ends, while the other side has blocks of thermometers and taps. The bypass is adjusted based on the comb’s design.

Note: Generally, thermal valves are on the "return" and flow meters are on the feed line. However, some collector models have rotameters on the opposite line. Since the internal shape of the bushings varies, there won’t be a turn to twist the valves instead of the flowers if the distributor tubes are confused.

Ball taps are used as thermometers. The mixing node and circulation pump come next. Take into account each member of the collector group independently.

Design and purpose of flow meters

The purpose of rotameters is to manage and regulate the highest possible fluid flow through the loops. The EPDM rubber gasket serves as a seal when the elements are screwed into unique pipes on the manifold without the need for duct materials.

The flow meter is equipped with a spring-loaded rod that has a control washer on one end and a working plate on the other. How a rotameter functions

1. The coolant occurs through the side hole in the case, then moves down, presses on the plate and goes into the pipe.
2. The more water flows through the flowmeter, the stronger the pressure on the plate. The spring is squeezed, the rod with the control washer is lowered. Consumption in l/min can be observed on a scale applied on a transparentbell of the element.
3. The value of the duct is regulated by the rotation of the upper part of the body. When twisting, the passage hole is partially or completely closed by the piston.

Citation. Some manufacturers install unregulated rotameters on their collectors. Utilizing distinct cranes integrated into the body, the consumption is restricted. Watch the video below to see how these elements appear.

With the exception of the spring, which is located on the opposite side of the control washer, the flow meters installed on the reverse line are arranged similarly. The stem and washer rise as the coolant, which is coming from below, pushes the plate upward. How to tell different types of rotameters apart:

• If, in the absence of the puck, the flask is located at the top of the flap, then the flow meter is placed on the supply;
• If, with a zero flow of water, the puck stands at the bottom of the scale, the element is intended for “return”;
• The scale on the flask is protected in the corresponding direction, in the first case, the countdown is carried out from top to bottom, in the second – from the bottom up.

The rotameters need to be cleaned and served during operation because they are contaminated. When an internal raid is visible through a transparent flask, it is a sign that the component needs to be taken out, dismantled, and cleared from the work surfaces.

How the thermostatic valve works

The product is structurally identical to other similar two-way or radiator thermal valves. The plate falls into the saddle when it is pressed on a spring-loaded rod, obstructing the coolant’s flow. There is a chance that the maximum consumption will be restricted to the valve’s core rotating with the help of a hexagonal key.

To be clear. Valves come in two varieties: normally closed and normally open. The former are explained above; the passage closes when you press the stem. The latter are used less frequently; initially, the hole opens when the rod is lowered, opening the channel.

The thermostatic valve is designed to control the coolant flow rate during operation, not to balance the system. 3 methods are used to implement management:

1. Manual. The position of the rod is regulated by a plastic handle, which is wound on the valve from above.
2. Automatic RTL thermal heads pressing the stem with increasing temperature of the reverse flow. Do not confuse them with conventional radiator heads that respond to air temperature.
3. Electric servo drivers associated with indoor thermostat or weather -dependent automation.

Squeezing or releasing the rod to adjust the ambient temperature necessitates constant user attention when using manual control. Although they automate the process, RTL thermograms are only effective on short loops of up to 60 meters. Heat controllers and servo drives are universally applicable.

Other accessories of the comb

We stated in the opening of the publication the tasks that the warm sex collector group was expected to complete. It is evident that flow rate regulation and balancing operate rotameters and valves. Now let’s discuss the last few accessories:

1. Terminal node for emptying and automatically removing air bubbles. The element consists of a case with a drain crane and a float air vent. The fitting is closed with a cork, which is simultaneously a lamb for opening a valve.
2. Blocks of arrow thermometers marked up to 80–90 ° C. The purpose is clear – measuring the temperature at the input and exit from the comb.
3. Cranes are balls cutting off. Depending on the method of connecting the collector to heating, straight, angular taps are used, with an American and internal/external thread.
4. A bypass jumper with a bypass valve is used in systems with automatic adjustment. If all the contours are closed due to warm weather, the coolant will go through the bypass in a circle, the pump will not work “for itself”. In the usual mode, the valve will not let the water circulate directly, make you move along the hinges.

Note: You can upload in case of repair in addition to draining the coolant using the terminal node. Cranes disconnect the collector from the main line so that the TP contours can be emptied or filled in via the side fitting.

The comb’s manufacturer determines how many and what kinds of extra reinforcement are used. These are the primary accessories; different plugs, adapters, and valves are also used in addition to them.

A mixing node sits in front of the collector unit; its makeup is determined by how the coolant for TP is prepared. Three techniques are used to bring the water on warm floors up to the proper temperature:

1. In the contours of hot water with a two -way thermostatic valve. The element triggers the portions of the coolant at the command of the thermogram with a remote temperature sensor in the form of a copper flask. The latter is attached to the metal wall of the collector and is associated with the head through the capillary tube.
2. Mixing chilled and heated coolant using a three -way valve. The principle is as follows: the pump drives water through the bypass along the contours when it does not cool, the valve opens the supply of heated water from the boiler line. The difference from the previous method is a more smooth feed, the quality of mixing.
3. Restriction of the return duct RTL thermal heads installed on thermal valves of the comb. Here a pump module is not needed at all.

Three methods are available to operate a two- or three-way valve: manually, with an electric executive mechanism, or with a thermogram and a remote flask. The latter is managed by a controller that gets input from weather or indoor sensors.

River of the radiation system of heating

Recall that radiation wiring connects each radiator individually with two pipes to a common distribution manifold that is conveniently located (usually closer to the center of the building).

These combs are used in the installation of collector units.

• factory for TP (described above), made of stainless steel, brass or plastic;
• factory for water supply with built -in shut -off valves made of polypropylene or metal;
• Homemade collectors twisted from brass fittings, polypropylene tees.

The kind of comb you choose will rely on your radiator system requirements as well as your budget. Each battery can have a fairly pure collector devoid of valves and flow meters if it has its own thermalhead and balancing valve. Step away from the water and air discharge module.

Suggestions. If money is tight, you can go with the low-cost water collector in the picture that has cranes. When a lot of homeowners do this, the radiator valves are balanced by the system.

Purchase a floor heating comb if you wish to automate the heating process and minimize all of the collector cabinet adjustments. Install all accessories, including indoor regulators, servo-driven valves, rotameters, and "airborne" valves. Since the coolant for the batteries is supplied straight from the boiler room, the mixer is still not required.

The video below displays a combined heating collector that distributes heat to floor contours and radiator wiring. The comb’s two components are installed simultaneously. Keep in mind that the master used water distributors to distribute the coolant.

A common collector group

Similar to the TP collector, the trunk comb distributes coolant among the branches of the heating network that have different loads and lengths. The main chamber’s profile is square or round, and the element is composed of steel, either black or stainless.

Citation. Trunk collectors made in factories are referred to as components. This clever term indicates that every aspect of the comb is on the same plane: the vertical pipe passes through the "Return" camera and vice versa. The objective is to decrease the structure’s weight and size.

Distributors for three to five contours can be found in small forms that resemble a single pipe. The trick is to position the manifold inside the feed camera. Consequently, we obtain a single common case with two chambers of equal capacity.

Diluting collectors are not necessary in the vast majority of country houses with an area up to 300 m². The strapping scheme is applied using the primary and secondary ring method, which is covered in a different article, for multiple heat consumers. When is the right time to consider purchasing a common house heating comb?

• The number of floors of the cottage is at least two, the total area is over 300 squares;
• For heating, at least 2 heat sources are involved – gas, solid fuel, electric and so on;
• the number of individual branches of radiator heating is 3 or more;
• In the boiler room circuit there is a boiler of indirect heating, heating contours of auxiliary buildings, heating the pool.

The load on each branch is calculated in order to choose a model of a particular size. The listed factors must be taken into account both individually and collectively. Thus, the collector would be better off not purchasing without first consulting an expert.

In this article, we"ll explore the world of heating collectors: how they work, what they"re made of, and how to install them in your home. Heating collectors are like mini power plants for your house, capturing sunlight and turning it into heat energy. They consist of a series of tubes or panels, usually mounted on the roof or a sunny wall, that absorb sunlight and transfer it to a fluid inside. This fluid, often water or a special heat transfer liquid, carries the heat to where it"s needed, like radiators or underfloor heating systems. Installing collectors involves placing them in a sunny spot, connecting them to your home"s heating system, and ensuring they"re properly insulated to maximize efficiency. With collectors, you can harness the power of the sun to keep your home warm and cozy, while also reducing your energy bills and environmental footprint.

Nuances of installation

The technology used to fasten the collector to the wall is fairly straightforward: mounting brackets support the comb TP and radiation wiring, and Euroconus fittings connect the loops. Under the lower, the pipes that go to the upper portion of the collector—typically this "return"—are overlooked.

Suggestions. It is not required of you to install a distributor on brackets. The tube can be broken to the sides and fixed on the wall separately if needed. When installing a collector in the boiler room is not necessary, the collector box is utilized within the living area’s premises.

Enumerate the key points in brief:

1. The size of the comb is selected according to the diameter of the pipes used in warming loops – Ø16 or Ø20 mm. Accordingly, take the distributor for ¾ or 1 inch. The material of the product does not play a role, in terms of price/quality ratio, stainless steel wins.
2. If the number of rowing bows exceeds 12, collect a collector unit of 2 sections. When installing accessories, ducts are not used, since the parts are equipped with rubber seals.
3. A heavier common house collector is suspended on hooks, reinforced brackets or installed on the floor. Pumps, pipes and other binding elements should not load the distributor with its own weight.
4. The hottest coolant receives an indirect heating boiler. The coil and circulation pump of the water heater is connected directly to the comb, usually from the end.
5. Radiator heating branches and TP are attached to the manifold through the nodes of the subscription with three -way valves. A separate pump selected by pressure and performance is placed on each line.

A crucial aspect. It is possible to locate the warm floor mixing node close to the main comb in the boiler room. After that, the TP distributor will receive the water at the appropriate temperature.

The energy efficiency of your house can be greatly increased by installing collectors for heating. These systems can help you become less dependent on conventional heating techniques by utilizing solar energy, which will ultimately reduce your energy costs and environmental effect.

The working principle of collectors is quite straightforward, but it works incredibly well. These gadgets are made up of several absorber plates that are usually covered in a transparent covering and composed of metal or another heat-absorbing material. The absorber plates heat up in response to solar radiation, which transfers thermal energy to a fluid that is circulating inside the collector.

The adaptability of collectors is one of their main advantages. Numerous heating applications, such as space heating, pool heating, and domestic hot water, can be served by them. Collectors can also be incorporated into newly constructed homes as well as existing residences, giving homeowners flexibility in how they choose to use renewable energy solutions.

In order to guarantee collector longevity and optimal performance, proper installation is essential. When installing these systems, location, orientation, and tilt angle are all crucial considerations. Through strategic placement of collectors at the optimal angle and with maximum sun exposure, homeowners can optimize the quantity of solar energy harvested, thereby augmenting the heating system’s efficiency.

In conclusion, for homeowners wishing to lessen their energy usage and environmental impact, collectors for heating provide an affordable and sustainable option. These solar-powered systems offer a plentiful renewable energy source that can be used for a variety of heating requirements. Collectors are a worthwhile investment for any home because they can provide dependable performance for many years to come with proper installation and maintenance.

Video on the topic

Gather yourself! The assembly instructions of the collector and the mixing unit of the warm floor!