Calculation of heating batteries to the area

In order to create a comfortable living space in a home or apartment, a dependable, accurately measured and installed, well-balanced heating system is essential. For this reason, organizing the construction of your own house or performing a significant renovation in a high-rise apartment requires you to focus on creating such a system.

Despite the modern variety of heating systems of various types, a tested scheme still remains the leader in pularity: the contours of pipes with the coolant circulating through them, and heat transfer devices are radiators installed in the premises. It would seem that everything is simple, the batteries are under the windows and provide the unprofitable heating … However, it is necessary to know that the heat transfer from the radiators must correspond to both the area of the room and a number of other specific criteria. Thermotechnical calculations based on the requirements of SNiP is a rather complicated procedure performed by specialists. Nevertheless, you can fulfill it on your own, of course, with an acceptable simplification. This publication will tell how to independently calculate the heating batteries for the area of the heated room, taking into account various nuances.

The area’s heating battery calculation

To begin with, though, you should at least quickly become familiar with the current heating radiators as their parameters will have a significant impact on the computations’ outcomes.

Briefly about existing types of heating radiators

The following types of modern radiators are available for purchase:

• Steel radiators panel or tubular structure.
• Cast iron batteries.
• Aluminum radiators of several modifications.
• Bimetallic radiators.

Steel radiators

Although some models have very elegant designs, this type of radiator did not gain much popularity. The issue is that these heat transfer devices’ benefits—low cost, relatively small mass, and simplicity of installation—are greatly outweighed by their drawbacks.

Radiators that heat steel have a lot of drawbacks.

These radiators’ thin steel walls heat up quickly, but they also cool down quickly, so they are insufficiently warm. Hydraulic stroke issues can occur; occasionally, welded sheet joints leak. Furthermore, cheap versions without a special coating are prone to corrosion and have a short service life; typically, manufacturers only offer a limited guarantee for these batteries.

Steel radiators are typically designed as a whole unit, making it impossible to alter the heat transfer by changing the number of sections. Their passport thermal capacity must be selected right away, taking into account the dimensions and characteristics of the room in which they are to be installed. An exception exists in that certain tubular radiators can have their number of sections altered, but this is typically done on demand, in the manufacturing process, rather than at home.

Steel radiator

Cast iron radiators

Everyone has probably seen examples of this kind of battery since they were young children; in the past, these kinds of accordions were essentially established everywhere.

Everyone has known since childhood, radiator made of iron MS-140-500

These MS -140 -500 batteries may not have been particularly graceful, but they served many generations of residents well. A radiator of this type could transfer 160 watts of heat per section. In theory, there is no limit to the number of sections, and the radiator is gathered.

Cast-iron heating batteries of today

There are a lot of contemporary cast iron radiators available right now. Their sleeker appearance and easily cleanable exterior surfaces set them apart from the competition. Additionally, unique options with an intriguing cast iron embossed pattern are produced.

Despite this, these models maintain all of the primary benefits of cast-iron batteries:

• The high heat capacity of cast iron and the massiveness of batteries contribute to a long -term preservation and high heat outlet.
• Cast iron batteries, with proper assembly and high -quality compaction of the compounds, are not afraid of hydraulic boards, temperature changes.
• Thick cast -iron walls are little susceptible to corrosion and abrasive wear. Almost any coolant can be used, so such batteries are equally good for both autonomous and central heating systems.

The fragility of the metal (accentrated shots are unacceptable) and the relative complexity of the installation, which is linked to greater mass, can be identified as drawbacks if the external data of the old cast-iron batteries are ignored. Furthermore, the weight of these radiators will be too much for any wall partition to support.

Aluminum radiators

Aluminum radiators gained popularity very quickly despite their relatively recent appearance. They have good heat transfer, a contemporary, sophisticated appearance, and are reasonably priced.

There are some crucial considerations that need to be made when selecting aluminum radiators.

Premium aluminum batteries have a coolant temperature of roughly 100 degrees and can tolerate pressures of up to 15 atmospheres. In certain models, the thermal return on a single section can occasionally reach 200 W at the same time. However, they also have a small mass (the sector, typically up to 2 kg) and a low coolant volume requirement (capacity, no more than 500 ml).

Aluminum radiators are offered for sale by integral products made for a specific power and by both types of batteries, with the option to modify the number of sections.

The drawbacks of radiators made of aluminum:

• Some types are very susceptible to oxygen corrosion of aluminum, with a high risk of gas formation at the same time. This makes persons requirements for the quality of the coolant, so such batteries are usually installed in autonomous heating systems.
• Some aluminum radiators of a non -graceful structure, the sections of which are made using extrusion technology, can flow on the compounds under certain adverse conditions. At the same time carry out repairs – it is simply impossible, and you will have to change the entire battery in general.

Anode metal oxidation is used to create the highest-quality aluminum batteries, which are the best. These products do not exhibit severe oxygen corrosion.

Since all aluminum radiators have a somewhat similar appearance, you should carefully study the technical documentation before making a decision.

Bimetallic heating radiators

These radiators compete with cast iron and aluminum in terms of thermal return. Their unique design is the cause of this.

Structure of a bimetallic heating radiator

Every segment comprises of a pair of steel horizontal collectors (pos. 1), both upper and lower, linked by a common steel vertical channel (pos. 2). High-quality threaded couplings are used to make connections within a single battery (pos. 3). The external aluminum shell provides high heat transfer.

Steel interior pipes are composed of a corrosion-resistant metal that is covered in a polymer coating. Well, corrosion isn’t too bad for the aluminum heat exchanger because it never comes into contact with the coolant.

As a result, good thermal indicators are combined with high strength and wear resistance.

Prices for popular heating radiators

Heating radiators

Even very large pressure jumps and high temperatures don’t faze these batteries. They are actually universal and work well with any heating system; however, they perform best when the central system’s pressure is high; in contrast, they are not profitable for contours with natural circulation.

The only possible downside could be their expensive cost in comparison to other radiators.

To facilitate comprehension, a table is presented that lists the radiators’ comparative attributes. Conditions within it:

• TS – tubular steel;
• ChG – cast -iron;
• Al – ordinary aluminum;
• Aa – aluminum anodized;
• BM – bimetallic.

Hg	TS	Al	Aa	Bm
Maximum pressure (atmosphere)
working	6-9	6-12	10-20	15-40	35
Pressing	12-15	9	15-30	25-75	57
Destruction	20-25	18-25	30-50	100	75
RC restriction (hydrogen indicator)	6.5-9	6.5-9	7-8	6.5-9	6.5-9
Exercise corrosion under the influence of:
oxygen	No	Yes	No	No	Yes
Wandering currents	No	Yes	Yes	No	Yes
electrolytic steam	No	weak	Yes	No	weak
Section power at h = 500 mm; DT = 70 °, WT	160	85	175-200	216.3	up to 200
Warranty, years	10	1	3-10	thirty	3-10

Video: Recommendations for choosing heating radiators

Here are some details about the bimetallic battery that might be of interest to you.

How to calculate the right number of heating radiator sections

It is obvious that, regardless of the street’s weather, the room’s radiators—one or more—must heat the space to a comfortable temperature and offset the inevitable loss of heat.

The area or volume of the room is always the starting point for computations. Expert computations themselves are extremely intricate and consider a vast array of factors. Simplified methods can be employed for household needs, though.

The simplest calculation methods

It is widely acknowledged that 100 W per square meter is needed to create normal conditions in a typical living room. As a result, you should just figure out the room’s area and multiply it by 100.

Q is equal to S × 100.

Q is the necessary heat transfer from radiators that heat up.

S stands for the heated room’s area.

Should the installation of a non-vegetable radiator be planned, this value will serve as a guide for choosing the appropriate model. One more calculation needs to be made in the event that the batteries necessary for the number of sections are installed:

N = Q/ Qus

N is the estimated number of parts.

Qus is a section’s specific thermal power. This value must be present, as stated in the product’s technical passport.

As you can see, these computations are very straightforward and don’t require any advanced mathematical knowledge; all you need is a measure of the room and a paper leaflet for the calculations. You can also make use of the table below, which already has values computed for rooms of different sizes and specific heating section capacities.

Table of sections

It is important to keep in mind that these figures pertain to a high-rise building’s typical ceiling height of 2,7 meters. It is preferable to determine the number of battery sections based on the room’s volume if the room’s height varies. An average indicator, 41 in the t t, 1 m³ of volume in a panel house, or 34 watts in brick, is used to accomplish this.

Q is equal to S × h× 40 (34)

Where h is the ceiling’s height above the ground.

Additional computation yields the same results as before.

Detailed calculation taking into account the characteristics of the room

Let’s proceed to more difficult computations now. The proprietors of the home or apartment can be shown a "Surprise" using the streamlined computation process described above. when the installed radiators in residential buildings fail to produce the necessary cozy microclimate. And the reason for this is a long list of subtleties that are just overlooked by the method under consideration. Such subtleties, however, can be crucial in the interim.

Thus, the room’s area is once more used as the base, with 100 W per m². However, the formula itself appears somewhat different already:

A × V × C × D × e × F× G× H× I× J = S × 100

Letters from A prior to J Conventionally, coefficients that account for the characteristics of the space and the placement of the radiators therein are indicated. Think of them consecutively:

A is the quantity of outside walls in the space.

It is evident that the greater the room’s area of contact with the street, or the larger the room’s outer walls, the greater the overall heat loss. The coefficient A is considered in this dependence:

• One external wall – A = 1, 0
• Two external walls – A = 1, 2
• Three external walls – A = 1, 3
• All four walls are external – A = 1, 4

B: The room’s cardinal point orientation.

The rooms that are not exposed to direct sunlight always lose the most heat. Naturally, this is the house’s northern side, and the reason for this is also related to the eastern side: the sun only shines here in the morning, when the luminary is still "not at full power."

The location of the premises in relation to the parties to the world has a significant impact on how warm they get.

The sun’s rays always heat the house more strongly on the south and west faces.

Thus, the values of the coefficients IN:

• The room goes north or east – B = 1, 1
• South or Western rooms – B = 1, That is, it may not be taken into account.

C is the coefficient that accounts for the level of wall insulation.

It is obvious that the external walls’ level of thermal insulation will determine how much heat escapes the heated space. The coefficient’s value WITH Accept equals

• The average level – the walls are laid out in two bricks, or their surface insulation is provided with another material – C = 1, 0
• The outer walls are not insulated – C = 1, 27
• High level of insulation based on heat engineering calculations – C = 0.85.

D: Characteristics of the local climate.

Since each of the fundamental indicators of the necessary heating power "under one comb" depends on the amount of wintertime negative temperatures typical to a given location, it is obviously impossible to equalize them all. The coefficient D is taken into consideration here. The coldest decade’s average temperatures are used to make this decision; typically, the local hydrometeorological service can easily provide clarification on this value.

• – 35 ° C and below – D = 1, 5
• – 25 ÷ – 35 ° C – D = 1, 3
• up to – 20 ° C – D = 1, 1
• not lower – 15 ° C – D = 0, 9
• Not lower – 10 ° C – D = 0, 7

E represents the room’s ceiling height coefficient.

As previously stated, the average value for the standard ceiling height is 100 W/m². In the event that it differs, enter E as the correction factor:

F is the coefficient that accounts for the kind of room that is above

It is pointless to install a heating system in a room with a cold floor, yet the owners always take action in this regard. However, the kind of room situated above frequently has nothing to do with them. In the meantime, there will be a considerable reduction in the overall requirement for thermal energy if there is a living or insulated room above:

• cold attic or unheated room – F = 1, 0
• insulated attic (including insulated roof) – F = 0, 9
• Heated room – F = 0, 8

G stands for the installed window type’s accounting coefficient.

Different window designs can lose heat in different ways. Considering the coefficient G, this

• Ordinary wooden frames with double glazing – G = 1, 27
• The windows are equipped with a single -chamber double -glazed window (2 glasses) – G = 1, 0
• Single -chamber double -glazed window with argon filling or double -glazed window (3 glass) – G = 0, 85

N is the glazing room coefficient for nt plots.

The total area of the windows that are installed in the room determines how much heat is lost overall. The ratio of the window area to the room area is used to calculate this value. Based on the outcome, we determine the coefficient N:

I is the coefficient that accounts for the radiator connection diagram.

The way the radiators are attached to the pipe and return pipes affects how much heat they transfer. When organizing the installation and choosing the appropriate number of sections, this should also be considered:

Schemes for inserting radiators into the heating circuit

• a – diagonal connection, feed on top, background from below – I = 1, 0
• b – unilateral connection, feeding from above, downward – from below – I = 1, 03
• B – bilateral connection, and feed and return from below – I = 1, 13
• g – diagonal connection, feed from below, on top – I = 1, 25
• D – unilateral connection, feeding from below, return on top – I = 1, 28
• E – unilateral lower connection and feed connection – I = 1, 28

J is the coefficient that accounts for the installed radiators’ level of openness.

A lot relies on how the installed batteries are left open to allow the room’s air to freely transfer heat. Obstacles that are naturally occurring or intentionally constructed can drastically lower the radiator’s heat transfer. In this, the coefficient J is considered:

The location and installation technique of the batteries in the room have an impact on how much heat they transfer.

A – There is no windowsill covering the radiator or it is exposed on the wall; J = 0, 9

B: A windowsill or shelf is placed on top of the radiator; J = 1, 0.

In – a horizontal niche wall protrusion covers the top of the radiator; J = 1, 07

G: A windowsill covers the radiator from above, and a decorative casing covers a portion of the well on the front side – J = 1, 12

D: A decorative casing completely encloses the radiator; J = 1, 2

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That’s all, in the end. You can now adjust the values and coefficients to match the conditions, and the output will provide the necessary thermal power to heat the room reliably while accounting for all the subtleties.

Subsequently, it will either stay in place, select an unconventional radiator with the appropriate amount of heat, or split the computed value into the particular thermal power of a single battery section of the model of choice.

Many of these counts will undoubtedly appear overly complicated and confusing. We offer to use a special calculator that has all the necessary values pre-loaded to make the calculations easier. Only the requested initial values or the required positions from the lists may be entered by the user. When you click the "Calculate" button, an accurate result with rounding up will appear right away.

Calculator for accurate calculation of heating radiators

The publication’s author, who is also the calculator’s compiler, hopes that site visitors have gained comprehensive knowledge and useful assistance for doing calculations on their own.

Information on selecting an electric boiler might be of interest to you.

Afanasyev Evgeny, Chief Editor

The publication’s author on September 11, 2015

It’s crucial to match the capacity of the heating radiators you choose for your house with the size of the area they are intended to heat. The area of the room, the height of the ceiling, the building’s insulation level, and even the climate where you live all play a role in determining the appropriate number and size of radiators. You can efficiently maintain a comfortable indoor temperature without wasting energy by making sure your heating batteries are the right size. This keeps your home cozy and lowers your heating expenses. This procedure, which is frequently disregarded, is essential to having a heating system that works well.

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