Burn “Baby” 2×3.5 bricks: guns, features of the furnace, distinctive features

Many of us look for economical, dependable, and efficient solutions when it comes to heating our homes. A tried-and-true technique that has endured is the use of a masonry heater, also known as a "Russian fireplace" or "kachelofen." The "Baby" 2×3.5 brick furnace is the most well-known of these due to its unusual appearance and remarkable heating power.

One notable feature of the "Baby" 2×3.5 brick furnace is its small size and excellent heat retention. Constructed using standard 2×3.5 bricks, this furnace is not only incredibly efficient but also compact. For individuals who are concerned about their carbon footprint, its design makes it an eco-friendly option because it burns for a longer period of time while using less fuel.

The capacity of this furnace to disperse heat evenly across the space is one of its unique qualities. In contrast to traditional wood stoves, which mainly heat the air surrounding them, the "Baby" brick furnace provides warmth to the walls and furnishings, resulting in a comfortable and cozy atmosphere. Even on the coldest days, you will feel toasty and warm thanks to this radiant heat, without feeling the typical dryness that comes with forced-air heating systems.

In addition, a system of channels and baffles maximizes the heat exchange between the masonry and the combustion gases in the "Baby" 2×3.5 brick furnace design. This makes it more efficient and eco-friendly since it produces a cleaner burn with fewer emissions. The "Baby" 2×3.5 brick furnace is a compelling option for anyone wishing to upgrade their home heating system because of its timeless charm and cutting-edge efficiency.

What do the numbers in the name of the furnaces mean?

The geometric dimensions of the KP in bricks are described if a brick furnace’s title or description contains the phrase "2.5×3.5." Not in millimeters or meters, but specifically in bricks.

As a result, KP 2.5×3.5 indicates that it is a brick furnace with a width of 2.5 bricks and a length of 3.5 bricks. To put this into more widely used units of measurement, that equals roughly 650×910 mm.

The size is approximate as it depends on the thickness of the pantry and the size of the brick itself; a ± 5% deviation is allowed.

What these sizes affect?

When an expert stove maker sees the KP’s dimensions or the space needed for installation, he can tell right away:

• What maximum thermal power can be obtained from such a furnace (in reality it is noticeably smaller, but nevertheless);
• What type of firebox is suitable for her;
• What gas movement scheme is suitable for her;
• Is it possible to install a plate and/or oven on such a stove, as well as what change in thermal power this will lead.

The maximum possible (potential) thermal power

The exterior surface of the CP is the primary source of heat, heating the air within the space. Based on past experience, it is estimated that a heated surface measuring 1 m 2 emits roughly 500 W/h of thermal energy. Therefore, it will release 5 kW/h of thermal energy if the outer surface area is 10 m 2.

Multiplying the perimeter length by the height yields the area of the CP’s heating surface; the final parameter is dependent on the room’s height and the furnace’s intended use.

In fact, depending on the KP’s design and the material used to construct the ceiling, the distance between the top of the furnace and the ceiling should be between 25 and 150 cm in accordance with fire standards. These specifications are listed in paragraph 6.6.20 of the document "Memo. Step heating SNiP 41-01-03".

• the height of the room;
• ceiling design;
• The design of the furnace floor,

Determining the height of the KP is simple. As per the memo, this can be achieved by deducting a thermal fire gap that corresponds to the ceiling and furnace from the room’s height. The area of the heating surface will then be obtained by adding and doubling the side measurements of the KP that are listed in the name or description, multiplying by height, and so on.

The actual power, however, will depend on a number of other factors; this is merely the maximum that is feasible.

Top type

There are two primary types of fireboxes (also known as fuel, furnaces, or fuel chambers) for solid brick furnaces:

• with lining;
• Without lining.

A lining: what is it? This sequence of bricks, also known as breams (bricks with decreased thickness), shields the furnace chamber’s wall laying from direct fire exposure and overheating. Since all sizes only use vegetable raw materials (briquettes, firewood, etc.), the furnace can function normally even in the absence of lining as long as the rules governing its operation are strictly followed. This includes knowing how to drown the stove.

But, lining prevents the CP walls from overheating and enables you to add more fuel than just firewood, increasing the amount of thermal energy that is produced at the output.

Furthermore, a minor re-stop won’t disable the CP out of the system because there is always a chance of a renewal (roll) of the furnace owing to an improper mode of fire combustion or for other reasons. This is because the lining will prevent the walls of the furnace from cracking.

Even though the standard width of the space that allows for good fire burning is one brick, or roughly 25 centimeters, the properly installed lining increases the furnace’s width by half a brick. The average distance between the furnace’s outer walls after lining is 39 cm; if both external walls are added, that number rises to 65 cm, or 2.5 bricks.

It is therefore physically impossible to create a KP with a furnace fouter that is two bricks wide. Additionally, the "baby" will be 80% less protected against sporadic or non-ranging overheating in the absence of lining. The length of the fuel is equally important because a shorter fuel will require the firewood to be shaken finely, whereas a longer fuel will allow you to place logs of different sizes inside.

But apart from firewood size, the fuel’s length has an impact on:

• thermal power of the furnace;
• the ability to install a hob;
• The most optimal way to move gases along KP.

Thermal power

The total amount of heat released during the combustion of a specific volume of fuel, such as firewood, is known as thermal power. Consequently, the fuel chamber’s thermal power increases with length.

A portion of it will be forced into the atmosphere if this parameter surpasses the KP’s body’s capacity to absorb and supply thermal energy. In the event that power is insufficient, condensate forms on the walls of the chimney and canals, causing masonry and metal to corrode. In the sections that follow, we’ll discuss this.

The ability to install a hob

Because it can cook food and boil water in addition to warming the house, the stove with the hob installed is far more versatile. But still Since this energy is radiated directly into the room, heating the air, rather than the much more warm-intensive brick of the furnace body, the installation of the plate uses about 30% of the thermal power of the fuel.

Additionally, you must carefully consider how to remove smoke gases from the firebox due to its limited size.

In fact, installing the heating shield on the side of the lining furnace increases the overall width of the KP to 3.5 bricks.However, in this scenario, it is not possible to guarantee that the masonry rows in the general wall area will be dressed normally. The lining furnace has a width of 2.5 bricks.

This is a major flaw because even extreme heating without a roll causes cracks to appear quickly (usually within 1-3 years) and cause smoke or air suction to enter the room. Furthermore, fixing the crack only temporarily fixes the issue, which recurs quickly.

Consequently, the best location for flue gases is the back of the furnace chamber’s upper side, which limits the amount of space that can be used to install the plate.

Furthermore, this restricts the options for implementing different flue gas movement strategies, so vertical or horizontal channels will have to take its place somewhere. The Finnish anti -flow scheme is implemented in furnaces 2.5 and a length of 3.5 bricks, and even with the stove, it is impossible.

Gas movement scheme

There are four primary flue gas schemes inside the brick furnace:

1. Dutch (vertical channels).
2. Swedish (horizontal channels).
3. Finnish (anti -flow channels).
4. Colling (without channels).

Due to the largest area of the internal walls of the smoke channels, the Dutch scheme offers the most comprehensive selection of heat from flower gases; however, it also reduces the thrust of the chimney, necessitating higher requirements for the latter.

Smoke must travel up the channels multiple times to reach the top of the furnace before descending to the bottom in order to reach a chimney. The low density of hot smoke gases allows for easy ascent; however, only strong traction allows for the movement downward as the cold air in the channels is forced upward.

The first channel heats up fastest at the same time that the second channel barely warms up, causing the CP to heat unevenly and crack as a result. The cross section of the channels can be changed in large furnaces to mitigate this effect; the closer the channel is to the firebox, the larger the cross section. However, in the "babies," this method is acceptable because the entire structure is small.

While the Swedish scheme is much less demanding on traction than the Dutch scheme, it does select a little less heat. Due to her complete characteristic of uneven heating, both schemes are only effective when the furnace heats up smoothly and takes two to three furnaces to reach the full heating temperature.

Despite having vertical channels, the anti-flow scheme outperforms all other schemes in terms of heating uniformity and is similar to the Swedish traction. In terms of heat selection efficiency, it is similar to the Swedish.

The biggest drawback is that the bricks will be large—at least 2.5 by 4—and that the furnace door will be in the center of the long side. Additionally, the furnace chamber will only be 25 cm deep—very inconvenient—when accounting for the lining. Thus, 3×4 bricks are regarded as the minimum size required to implement the standard Finnish scheme.

The installation of two caps, one above the other, partially offsets the capture circuit’s lower selection efficiency compared to all other schemes. The caps of the capture circuit provide a minimum drop in traction, allowing the furnace to function normally even with a low pipe. Although the lower cap in this instance is heated more strongly than the upper, cracking is prevented.

It is significantly worse than

• Within one cap of heating is uneven (much hot on top);
• In the upper part, zones of excess pressure are created, so the requirements for the quality of masonry of brick for such furnaces are much higher than for any others;
• The foci of stagnation of explosive gases are formed inside the cap, so a sharp opening of the door can lead to their detonations with the subsequent destruction of the masonry.

Possibility and result installation of the oven

By installing the oven, the furnace’s capabilities are increased, enabling it to do more than just heat the house—it can now bake bread or pies.

You can place this equipment in two locations:

• Topka;
• heating shield.

When an oven is installed, the amount of space available for burning fuel is drastically reduced, which results in a higher carbon footprint than in furnaces without an oven when combined with smoke. Because such furnaces have a notably lower useful action coefficient (efficiency), more fuel must be burned than firewood or briquettes in order to produce the same amount of heat.

Furthermore, because condensate contains more carbon than smoke does at the same temperature and forms soot deposits when the moisture dries, the oven in the furnace also greatly speeds up the soot of the stove channels.

A small oven is useless in the kitchen because it can only bake small rolls, and a large oven takes up a lot of room, which is why the channel system needs to be redone. However, installing the oven inside the heating panel or the oven channels eliminates the need to lower the furnace.

You must decide which is more important: heating the room or using the oven, as the wind box does not contribute to the process of heat accumulation. This means that stoves with wind boxes, even those not installed in fireboxes, have less thermal power.

What happens in the furnace during the furnace and after it?

Understanding the processes that take place in it both during and after the furnace is finished is essential to designing and adding a good KP. Ultimately, a great deal of "unsuccessful" structures are poorly constructed simply because their creators overlooked or failed to account for certain factors. For this reason, we will start the analysis of the ongoing processes at the beginning—that is, with firewood combustion.

Burning firewood

What are fuel briquettes or firewood? These are materials made of compressed hydrocarbons that do not burn on their own. By heating a match to the temperature required for the pyrolysis of wood or paper (pyrolysis gas and its application), you can cause the material to break down into non-combustible residue (ash) and pyrolysis gas.

After pyrolysis gas and air are combined to a temperature of at least 250 degrees Celsius, the oxidation process starts, producing the following results:

• the release of thermal energy with the formation of flame;
• the appearance of carbon dioxide (the result of complete oxidation of carbon molecules);
• the appearance of carbon monoxide (the result of partial oxidation of carbon molecules);
• The appearance of water vapor.

If the smoke is hot enough, the combustion process takes place inside the Channel One or cap after first taking place in the furnace chamber. Because more carbon reacts with oxygen to release thermal energy, the furnace’s efficiency increases with the size of the area through which the oxidation reaction passes.

Because they cannot oxidize the pyrolysis gases, a KP with a small firebox is always much less effective at converting heat into heat.

The efficiency of the pyrolysis and oxidation processes is also influenced by the furnace’s design. If the furnace is lined, for example, very little heat is transferred to the room from its walls, maintaining the temperature inside the active combustion zone. More free carbon is used in the oxidation process to produce thermal energy at higher temperatures because this process is more effective.

A specific volume of air must be introduced in order to achieve maximum heat production, as insufficient mixing causes only a portion of the oxygen to be oxidized by carbon, with the remaining oxygen and nitrogen molecules only serving to cool the smoke gases. For this reason, the solid furnace doors are closed during operation, and air is released through tiny apertures covered by shutters (gates).

Burning pyrolysis and smoke gases

A flame gas burning channel is incorporated into some of the "babies," such as the Uzhotski and cottage designs. Because this channel is significantly larger than the others, it absorbs less heat from the flue gas flow, allowing for more intense mixing with air oxygen and carbon oxidation.

Inside the furnaces, the flue gases are still separated into fractions without mixing; the hotter gases rise to the top and the colder gases stay below. The hot and cold pyrolysis gases are nitrogen and oxygen, which are the building blocks of air.

Because of this, only a small portion of the carbon is oxidized in the furnace; higher temperatures and enough oxygen are required to oxidize the remaining portion of this material. Due to this inherent flaw in all stoves with fifth tops, the zone of derivatives is required in order to boost the "baby’s" efficiency.

The best burning zone, which can be incorporated into a small KP, is a cap that sits right above the firebox.

Its walls are heated to a temperature between 500 and 800 degrees, and the large volume and free gas movement allow for efficient mixing, which enhances the firmware. Even in a large cross-sectional channel or cap, the stove’s burning is not very effective because it produces less hot smoke.

Thermal expansion of brick and masonry

The walls of the furnace chamber gradually warm up as the flame temperature in the furnace rises to a thousand degrees during the burning of firewood; in an hour, the temperature of the walls reaches 600–800 degrees. The identical circumstance and the masonry fix.

The issue is that there is a difference in the coefficient of thermal expansion (KTR) between the solution’s pantry and the brick, which causes a masonry break and the emergence of cracks. The typical brick, which is 250 mm long, grows by 1.65 mm when heated to 800 degrees. The pantry of the solution remains roughly the same, but even a 0.01 mm difference causes the solution to exfoliate from the brick.

The material expands unevenly at the same time because the outside surface temperature seldom rises above 70 degrees, at which point a rectangular brick becomes a trapezoid with a higher interior temperature than an exterior temperature. As a result, the pantry is destroyed, with some of it breaking free from the bricks to create the gaps.

Because of this, the time at the top of the KP with shelter walls that are both thick and unlined (the sizes of 2×2.5 and 2×3) shouldn’t be more than an hour; otherwise, the masonry will be destroyed by the difference in KTR. In the event that you lay more masonry than anticipated, it will start to deteriorate even before the furnace output. For this reason, stoves are regarded as two bricks that are useless and untrustworthy.

Since they are incapable of releasing the required amount of heat, they will always be colder than their counterparts that have a width of 2.5 bricks.

The only difference is that the processes take place at a lower temperature in the furnace’s body, which includes the caps and channels. However, the inner surface of the adjacent bricks reaches a temperature above 800 degrees when the furnace is rewound with lining, particularly if it is isolated from the furnace body by a heat insulator like kaolin wool and burns well.

Another issue is related to the masonry material’s heat resistance; premium ceramic brick can tolerate temperatures as high as 800 degrees without breaking, but too much heat will cause structural violations and eventual destruction. Thermal expansion is also to blame for this.

A unique stove brick with greater strength and heat resistance was created in tsarist Russia and the early USSR; however, the introduction of reasonably priced chamotis products caused the manufacture of such material to be discontinued.

Because of this, the "stove" brick found in stores is the most prevalent type, and its heat resistance occasionally falls short of 800 degrees.

Selection of heat from flame and smoke gases

Heats are transferred from the furnace to the upper edge of the chimney via the channels made specifically for this purpose, using the thermal energy that is separated during the oxidation of carbon and hydrogen.

The temperature of the smoke passing through reaches its maximum in the first cap or channel and its minimum in the last as a result of their movement heating the inner surface of the channels or cap and subsequently dissipating some thermal energy on it.

The area of the furnace’s inner surface where hot gases flow has a direct correlation with the amount of the chosen heat. It is possible to create multiple channels in theory to absorb the most heat.

In actuality, though, only 500–600 °C are possible because, if the smoke isn’t hot enough as it passes through the smoke pipe, it won’t be able to dry condense, which will cause the pipe to break. As a result, the temperature delta (∆T), which is the difference in temperature between the furnace’s output and all other channels except the chimney, is only 500–600 degrees Celsius (800–200 = 600).

The heat from the heat pipe used for heating will not be sufficient to dry the condensate if the temperature at the stove’s output is lower. As a result, the area of the inner surface of the smoke-movement channels, including their caps, should be designed so that the temperature of the smoke gases is between 250 and 300 degrees at the furnace’s output and between 100 and 150 degrees at the chimney’s exit.

It is acceptable to lower the temperature at the CP’s exit to 150–200 degrees during the furnace twice a day if you intend to install an insulated sandwich or brick chimney.

Although it will reduce the stove’s efficiency, it is advised to raise the temperature of the chimney entry to 400 degrees if you use an asbestos pipe for the chimney. This will guarantee that the condensate dries out in any weather.

Education and drying of condensate

It is vital to take into account the nature of the condensate’s appearance in order to comprehend what makes it hazardous and why it needs to be dried during the furnace process. Many complex substances, including those that form aggressive acids when mixed with water, are formed during the pyrolysis decomposition and oxidation of pyrolysis gases.

Water vapor is an integral part of the smoke, because it is formed:

• moisture coming from the room;
• moisture located inside the firewood;
• hydrogen oxidation reaction.

The condensate of the complex chemical composition emerges as a result of the mixing of all these gases during the driving along the chimney, which causes the water to settle as water drops on the cold surfaces of the water vapor and absorb some of the other components of the smoke mixture.

Condensate settles through a process that lasts until it reaches the dew point, at which point it stops, leaving the moisture that exited the drum channel on the surface of the smoke channels.

If the condensate isn’t dried, moisture from its composition starts to progressively dissolve the solution, weakening the masonry. It also absorbs into the bricks, carrying the condensate’s whole chemical composition with it.

Because of the tar in its composition, which has an unpleasant odor when it builds up in bricks, the entire oven will start to smell. Furthermore, trying to dry out after impregnation with condensate-filled bricks is ineffective; the only solution is to add a KP from fresh bricks to eliminate the odor.

Because condensate is so chemically aggressive that it can destroy stainless steel even in the absence of drying, insulated sandwich chimneys made of stainless steel can rot in three to five years in improperly folded furnaces. Therefore, it is crucial to maintain the proper temperature of the flue gases so that any moisture that falls in the form of condensate is completely dried by the time the furnace ends.

Education and influence of soot

Condensate only loses moisture and a small amount of volatile compounds during the drying process; carbon stays in the mixture and gradually forms loose black deposits. Such a layer up to any discernible effect on the traction can accumulate for years in the channels of a large section. Nevertheless, it takes several months for soot to build up to the traction-affecting marks in small channels (that is, at the output of the "babies").

The moisture content of firewood is one of the most significant factors influencing the rate of overgrowth of channel soot; the higher the moisture content, the more pair, meaning more carbon will settle on the walls during each firebox. For this reason, chimney cleaning should be done not just before the heating season begins but also once every three months, as stated in paragraph 2.5.9 of "Recommendations for the prevention of fires in stove heating houses."

In properly folded furnaces, no matter how much fuel is drowned, soot never forms in the furnace chamber; in poorly constructed KPs, on the other hand, soot always smears the fuel.

This results from carbon burnout that occurs during the furnace process. Additionally, the fuel and first channel are where the process proceeds most intensely. The rate at which soot forms slows down dramatically if the temperature in the furnace’s final channel rises above 350–400 degrees because soot ages in the furnace.

Another risk associated with soot is that if you decide to score the stove during an extended period of severe frost, the fire from these deposits may start. Since soot burns at a temperature higher than 1,500 degrees, the nearby combustible materials could catch fire from the stove and chimney’s heat.

To prevent this from occurring:

• ensure thoroughly drying condensate in the process of each furnace;
• Regularly remove soot;
• Use only dry firewood;
• Do not push the oven.

Changing the traction as the chimney heated

Owners of channel furnaces have observed that their furnaces ignite heavily after extended periods of inactivity and during cold weather. This is because the lower portion of the channels are filled with cold air, and the high moisture content in the air exacerbates the problem.

Smoke gases must be forced upstairs by much colder air in order to escape from Hail (the so-called exit from the fuel to the first channel or a burning chamber) to the upper cut of the chimney. Since it is easier to go out into the room, the stove starts to smoke.

Such issues are almost nonexistent in the caps and kP with a high, well-installed pipe because the higher the chimney and the stronger the craving within it, the easier it is for the flower gases to pour up the cold air.

The cold air area initially takes up the largest portion of the cooled flue gas fractions during the furnace; however, as the furnace walls heat up, their impact on traction decreases and eventually vanishes entirely in five to ten minutes.

Thus, the flower pipe is opened and a burning newspaper is placed inside before the cold furnace is ignited. The flame heats the air, causes it to rush upward, increasing thrust, and causes the smoke from the furnace to enter the pipe rather than fill the room.

Practical questions

Here, we’ll list the most frequently asked questions on both the liver’s work and pre-work pages, as well as questions we came across on different forums.

Is it possible to get uniform heating in a small furnace?

Any gas movement scheme can produce relatively uniform heating, but doing so will require significantly complicating the furnace’s design and doing away with the stove and oven. For instance, consistent heating in two-colp furnaces results in a continuous lining for both the furnace and the first cap; the second cap is already configured without lining.

Within channel furnaces A shift in the channels’ cross section produces uniformity:

• The first two bricks;
• The second is one brick;
• Third half a brick.

Is it possible to get a lot of thermal power?

When creating round furnaces in the 1930s, attempts were made to fold the brick in a quarter (either on a rib or a spoon). However, this method of laying proved to be very unreliable, especially when combined with the laying of a larger quantity of fuel. As a result, metal casings must be used to close similar stoves.

The end result was the introduction of the Grum-Grzhimailo round stove, which they rejected in favor of the design made of half a brick because, despite being heated significantly more intensely than equivalent outside area counterparts, it only retained the heat for a brief period of time. Therefore, rejecting the oven firmly is the only way to increase its thermal power; otherwise, it will need to be fixed or moved.

Is it realistic in a small furnace to avoid quick soot?

You are able to, as this must:

• abandon the plate and oven;
• organize effective flame gases;
• reduce thermal power to be reduced from the flow of flue gases, which is equivalent to a reduction in the efficiency of the furnace.

Are small stoves reliable?

The following variables determine the furnace’s dependability rather than its size:

• compliance with the regime of its operation (frequency and number of firewood);
• furnace lining;
• competently compiled ordering;
• correct dressing of rows;
• uniform heating of the furnace array.

Designs without an oven or slabs, folded by one array, without a separate heating shield, and with a connected fireplace are the most dependable in this regard.

Weak row dressing prevents furnaces with heating shields—particularly those that are positioned parallel to the fuel chamber—from achieving high reliability. Even so, these designs can function for decades without showing any signs of failure when used properly, but the peretop can destroy even the most dependable KP.

The economy of small furnaces

The KP fitted with an oven and stove cannot be as economical as possible because efficiency, or the ratio of burned fuel to stored heat, directly depends on the efficiency of burning pyrolysis and burning smoke gases.

A two-colp stove with a first-cap lining is the most efficient in terms of savings because it offers the best burning of smoke gases.

How to avoid cracking due to poor dressing of rows?

Although proper operation is the best way to prolong the service life of a furnace of this type, there are instances in which it is overlooked or necessary. Because of this, you can use different materials to reinforce masonry to make it stronger. However, even in this situation, protection is only helpful for a dozen weak or two strong repetitions, after which the furnace continues to rip.

Is it possible to make walls of furnaces a quarter of brick thickness?

Videos of mice folded into a quarter of a brick can be found online, and the people who made the videos commend the mice for heating up quickly. The walls start to warm up 15–20 minutes after kindergarten, but that’s where their benefits stop. They warm up extremely quickly.

They store considerably less heat because of the incredibly small mass-to-surface area ratio of the "baby," which causes them to cool down completely in 5-7 hours. Furthermore, even Smermining with a regular supply of firewood causes the masonry to overheat. This is because the masonry has a much lower thermal inertia due to its smaller mass, meaning that for the same amount of time.

Because the seam of such masonry is so narrow, reinforcing it would be useless. As a result, the only way to guard against the harmful byproducts of burning wood is to cover the entire casing with leather.

Even so, a typical KP that has been folded in half and connected to a chamotte will be needed for continuous heating as this type of stove is only meant to be used temporarily, for one or two winters at most.

Therefore, place a metal stove with a long burning time, such as the Bulerian air boiler, in place of the masonry in a quarter of brick.

The most popular sizes of "Malyutok"

This section will compare stoves of different sizes using the following metrics:

• potential for installing additional devices;
• ease of masonry;
• reliability;
• suitability for the implementation of one or another scheme of movement of smoke gases.

2×2

It is very difficult to implement even the Dutch scheme of gas movement in it, and this is the minimum size for building a furnace with a normal wall thickness, while the fuel will turn out to be appropriate (cross-section in one brick). As a result, discussing economy or efficiency is impossible. Furthermore, you cannot use the oven or plate on such a "baby".

2×2.5

This size is more appropriate for implementing the Dutch gas movement scheme and is only marginally better than the previous one. With the possible exception of the above, such a stove is not as efficient as any other size in terms of heating, so it is preferable to replace it with a standard bourgeois or air boiler.

2×3

With the exception of anti-flow, this is the first size that lets you implement any smoke gas movement effectively. On a stove this size, you can also fit a fairly large oven or plate. However, because of the width restriction, the furnace cannot be feet, and as a result, all KP of this size have a low reliability.

2×3.5

Although the firebox won’t function in this size, making the KP vulnerable to reinforcement, it is the first size in which the gas supply circuit can be realized. Even a sizable plate and/or oven can be placed here.

2.5×2.5

With a stove this size, you can put in a plate or oven and typically use a Dutch or cap to move the flue gases. Futtering the furnace is not desired, though, as this will complicate the implementation of any gas movement plans.

2.5×3

This is the first size that produces excellent stoves. With the exception of anti-flow, the length is sufficient to implement any smoke motion, and the width allows you to protect the fuel liner.

2.5×3.5

Because they are the largest of the "babies," these stoves not only release the most thermal energy but can also be used to implement any design solution. All furnaces of this size must have ceramic brick lining inside the furnace chambers in order to more readily withstand a minor re-stop.

What to do if there is enough space only to install a very small furnace?

The furnace’s dimensions Select according to two primary criteria:

• thermal power necessary for heating the room;
• accessible, taking into account fire requirements, places for installing "Baby".

If you construct a stove with a warming surface area that is insufficient for this space, you will need to reinforce it frequently, which will shorten its lifespan.

A larger structure could catch fire if it is installed without the room being redeveloped and even if fire regulations are disregarded.

There are just four exits in these situations:

1. Redevelopment of the room under the oven of a suitable size, in compliance with all fire requirements.
2. Installation of a metal furnace of long burning.
3. The construction of a furnace, folded in a quarter of a brick, followed by a skin, that is, it must be covered with a metal casing. Such a “baby” will be much less heat -intensive, so he will have to drown it more often, but due to the higher temperature of the outer surfaces, it will more effectively heat the room with the same size. At the same time, you must understand that such a stove is very fire hazardous and unreliable, because even the firebox brings bricks and masonry to the overweight, with all the ensuing consequences of this consequences.
4. Installation of a metal furnace of long burning.

Where to get the guesses?

Due to their poor efficiency and other issues, small stoves are not very popular, so it can be difficult to find forum threads with discussions about them. However, the best quality drawings can be found in forums where users discuss their experiences building and operating various furnaces, as only after using the "baby" for a while can the benefits and drawbacks of its order be determined.

Another choice is to look through different books and magazines, but this does not ensure that a scheme of that caliber will be developed.

As a result, researching the problem on your own and creating a plan for its circumstances is the best way to get a decent order for a mini furnace of this kind.

The following readings will assist you in this:

1. TO. Yuhani. Brick stoves and fireplaces.
2. A. Shepelev. DIY furnaces masonry.
3. TO. Meat. Stoves and fireplaces.
4. A. Schoolboy. Stove heating of low -rise buildings.
5. TO. Buslaev. How to put a household stove yourself.
6. IN. Grum-grzhimaylo. Fiery stoves.
7. M. Novgorod. Jacket skill.
8. AND. Podgorodnikov. Indoor stoves.
9. AND. Podgorodnikov. Domestic stoves are two -colp.
10. IN. Protopopov. Stocking business.

You will also require a sketch program, or an equivalent that is appropriate for 3D modeling. Additionally, there are gunshots in articles on our portal, such as this one (Bake Buslaeva) and this one.

You can independently design the design that works for your circumstances after learning the fundamentals of how brick furnaces operate and comprehending the processes that take place inside of them.

But since practice is a barometer of reality, you can only assess your progress while the system is in use. For this reason, we advise you to rely on the plans on our website. In fact, not only do we explain what and how to do, but also why we must do it that way in our estimations and articles about different stoves.

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You could be useful for Igor Podvosotsky’s baby’s brick stove:

In the realm of heating and insulation for homes, the "Burn Baby" 2×3.5 brick stove stands out as a compact and efficient choice. This type of stove is specially designed to maximize heat retention while minimizing fuel consumption. Its size makes it ideal for smaller spaces, yet it doesn"t compromise on performance. One of the standout features of this stove is its unique brick composition, which helps to evenly distribute heat and maintain a consistent temperature. Additionally, the design incorporates advanced combustion technology, ensuring cleaner and more efficient burning of wood or other fuels. What sets the "Burn Baby" apart is not just its functionality but also its aesthetic appeal, blending seamlessly with both traditional and modern home decors. Whether you"re looking to add a cozy touch to your living space or seeking an eco-friendly heating solution, the "Burn Baby" 2×3.5 brick stove offers a perfect blend of style and substance.

Video about the furnaces "Babs"

We’ll explain how to install and operate a furnace using "Kroch" bricks, which measure 2.5 by 3.

For many homeowners, the "Baby" 2×3.5 brick stove is an excellent option for effectively and sustainably heating a home. This kind of stove has become well-known for its remarkable heating power and small size. It is appropriate for small and medium-sized spaces because it can generate a substantial amount of heat despite its small size.

The "Baby" 2×3.5 brick stove is distinguished by its distinctive design, which promotes maximum heat retention. Its construction uses bricks that are specifically chosen for their efficient heat-storage and radiating capabilities. This lessens the need to continuously refuel or relight the fire because, once heated, the stove releases warmth into the space for a longer amount of time.

The "Baby" 2×3.5 brick stove is unique among heating alternatives and has the allure of a conventional wood-burning fire. This stove provides an abundance of the warm atmosphere and reassuring crackle that many homeowners love about a real wood fire. Furthermore, burning wood is thought to be a greener heating option than using fossil fuels, making it a better option for people who care about the environment.

The stove’s adaptability is yet another noteworthy quality. Even though producing heat is its main purpose, many models also have other features like an oven or a cooking surface. This makes it a multipurpose tool that can help with meal preparation in addition to keeping your house warm. The "Baby" 2×3.5 brick stove is a great addition to any home looking for effective and adaptable heating solutions because of its small size and versatile design.

Video on the topic

65. Bain Bain 2.5*3.5 bricks with stove-stroke.

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Burning Baby Gright.