Brick stoves for a house on firewood

In certain cases, brick stoves are essential for a wood-burning home because they might be the only way to heat a residential structure when there is no gas supply and to conserve electricity. Stoves, however, are frequently added because they can both protect the family budget from needless expenses and add comfort to the home by supplying it with a unique, healing warmth.

Brick fireplaces using firewood in a home

Even with the introduction of other contemporary heating options, brick furnaces are still in use today. This causes engineers and artisans to never stop creating new designs, which results in the appearance of ever-more sophisticated, useful, and warm-intensive heating structures.

There are numerous brick furnace models available, so it won’t be hard to select the one you need. However, there are a few crucial considerations that must be made in order for this home assistant—a real stove—to operate in a safe and efficient manner.

A variety of furnaces

In terms of functionality, brick stoves fall into three main categories: hobs, heating-welding, and heating structures, which includes heating furnaces using firewood that burns for a long time. Furthermore, there are multipurpose options such as a hot water container, a fireplace, and even a water circuit for the heating area, which is limited to heating the structure itself. Thus, if it is decided to install a brick furnace in the home, the first thing to do is choose the model.

Such a stove is primarily meant for use in kitchens.

• The hob is usually selected for installation in country conditions, if the owners live there only in the summer season. Sometimes such a stove is installed in a private house in addition to gas or electric heating – in order to save more expensive compared to firewood firewood. The hob is usually equipped with a hob, an oven, and sometimes a hotel tank. It usually has quite compact dimensions, but is still able to warm the room in which it is installed. It should be noted that this option will not be superfluous in any house, especially since this building itself will not take up much space.

The heating-welding furnace is an intricate, multipurpose system.

• The heating-welding furnace is a complex that can include several functions necessary for everyday use-this includes a hob, oven, a tank for heating water, niches for drying plant products, a bed, a fireplace, and sometimes a water circuit. A similar design will help out in any situation, so it is most often installed in cases where there is no other heating in the house. However, often they are in no hurry to abandon such furnaces and if there is a heating gas boiler in the house.

Even though this type of stove is only meant for heating purposes, it still lets you enjoy a fire in your fireplace.

• The heating furnace is intended only for heating a house or bath rooms. The design does not have a hob and oven, but a hot water reservoir can be built and there is a fireplace function. Such a stove can heat two or even three small rooms, when it is correctly built into the walls between the rooms.

Apart from its intended use, the furnace’s dimensions and form must be ascertained. This criterion will be based on how the house is laid out and how much space can be set aside for its installation. The structure’s heat capacity, or an indicator that determines which area the chosen stove can heal, must also be taken into consideration.

A range of furnace shapes

Therefore, large stoves with thick walls can heat a large area, but it takes the firebox of these stoves 1.5 to 2 hours to reach heating. Tiny, portable stoves heat up and maintain heat much more quickly—about 35 to 40 minutes. They are more economical because they require less fuel to sharpen, thereby reducing waste. As a result, before selecting a model, you should unquestionably learn about its power characteristics and intended use.

You might be curious to know what a cap of a cap is.

Choosing a place for installing a brick furnace

Although the furnace can be placed anywhere in the room, it will work best if it is built into the walls separating the rooms next to it. In this instance, if the heat-rolling surface is proportionate to the size of the rooms into which they exit, you can get away with using one heating structure for a small portion of the house.

Making the right decision about where to erect a brick furnace is crucial.

Installing a stove close to the house’s exterior wall is not advised because it will fast out much more quickly and serves no purpose other than to "heat the street."

The location of the construction must be well-founded and consider the following factors:

• The height of the ceiling of the room is important, since the brick furnace should fit well into space in height.
• The foundation for the furnace should be larger than its base at 110 ÷ 120 mm, and for it you also need to provide a suitable site for sizes.
• The chimney pipe when laying up it should not stumble on the beams of the ceiling and on the rafter legs of the roof structure.

Basic materials and components for laying a brick furnace

For the construction of the furnace, additional materials and components will be needed in addition to brick and masonry solution. The heating structure model that is chosen will determine their names, amounts, and measurements.

Parts made of cast iron for brick furnaces

Therefore, the cast-iron parts listed below might be needed for a brick furnace:

1 – blowing ash door;

2-the door to the furnace;

3- doors that are to be installed on channels for treatment;

4-channel valve for the chimney;

5-fireplace rings inserted into the hob’s holes;

6-the hob

7. Greasy.

A few steel assemblies or details that are part of the furnace’s design will also need to be ready in addition to the cast iron. It might be:

1. Oven.
2. Rodger tank.
3. Metal stripes of different lengths and widths.
4. Metal corner, most often with dimensions 50 × 50 mm.
5. Extended steel wire with a diameter of 2 ÷ 3 mm.
6. Steel sheet for flooring in front.
7. Roofing iron – sometimes required to overlap the hob.

Materials for the masonry itself must be chosen in compliance with the masonry scheme and the list (table), which is typically attached to it:

1. Red brick.
2. Brick chamotnaya.
3. Components for clay solution – sand and clay, or a ready -made heat -resistant mixture for laying furnaces sold in specialized stores.
4. Materials for the foundation – they can be different: it is crushed stone, broken brick, sand and cement, laughter stone, formwork boards, roofing material for waterproofing.
5. Asbestos sheet and cord.

Foundation marking and arrangement

If a solid foundation is not built beneath this structure, it will be impossible to begin laying the furnace because of how massive the design will end up being.

• At first there is a marking of the place where the base under the stove will be installed – the foundation. It should be borne in mind that the chimney pipe when passing through the attic overlap should pass at a distance of at least 120 ÷ 150 mm from wooden beams.

To accurately determine the place where the floor boards are cut under the foundation device, a plumb line is used, which is fixed on the ceiling, at the right distance from the block beam. After the plumb line stops, a mark is made on the floor, one of the corners of the furnace. Also, points, its other corner parts are noted, and then the resulting plan is verified by the construction level and corner. Further, it should be drawn on the floor in the shape of a future foundation (as already mentioned, it should be wider than a stove base by at least 100 – 150 mm in each direction). On the resulting marking, the floor boards will be cut – so as to reach the ground.

It should be immediately noted that the furnace’s foundation and that of your home are not the same. They shouldn’t be related, either. Due to the different shrinkage of the furnace bases and the house itself, it’s possible that two buildings will pull on a tied foundation.

• Further, the floor boards are cut and dismantled, and in the exposed soil, a foundation pit rummages with a depth of at least 500 mm from the surface of the earth.
• The foundation can be equipped with a bottle of lane or brick. If the base is equipped with a missile stone, then the installation of formwork in the pit is not required. It is enough to lay a stone peeled from dirt, each of which is poured with a concrete solution. It is very important to make sure that there are no unsweet voids between the masonry stones.

Leveling and filling a furnace bottle foundation

• The masonry over the soil continues in the formwork made in the form of a box, the boards of which should be tightly fitted to each other. In order for the solution to dry evenly, and the liquid is not absorbed into the formwork wood, it is recommended to be closed from the inside with dense polyethylene, which is fixed with brackets on the boards.
• The foundation should be lower than the level of clean floor by 140 mm.
• The surface of the Butovo-cement foundation is aligned for the next stage of work.
• Further, on a flat and dried surface, two rows of brickwork are mounted, and after the solution dries, it is covered in two layers of the roofing material that acts as a waterproofing.

Roofing material flooring sheets on a constructed stove foundation

It is feasible to fill the foundation slab continuously in the formwork and install a steel reinforcing structure at the same time. It’s true that there will be a lot more concrete solution used in this situation.

Preparation of brick for masonry work

As you are aware, the red brick from a typical firing serves as the primary building block for the furnace. Refractory chamotis material is used for the construction of the firebox’s bottom and walls. Of course, you could use the chosen red brick for the furnace chamber, but keep in mind that it will have a far shorter service life than the refractory.

Initially, the bricks that were purchased need to be carefully sorted, with the ones with significant chips and cracks being rejected. When using an existing brick for masonry, it needs to be cleared of soot and old solution.

Red pantry brick needs to be soaked in water before work can begin.

Soak the prepared red brick in water for a minimum of 12 to 14 hours. Shamotnaya, but just give it a quick water rinse before using to get rid of any dust.

Redeeming bricks to parts is another step in the preparation process because, in addition to whole bricks, half bricks, three bricks, ¼ walls, and occasionally even smaller fragments are required for laying the furnace. In order to facilitate the process of identifying the brick’s individual parts based on size, measurements are taken of the hammer’s handle and notes are made indicating the size of the halves, either ¼ or ¾ of the total.

Brick is moved or cut off to obtain the broken pieces needed for masonry. If cutting a brick at an angle is required, Smecry is done.

Hacking bricks at the proper angle

Teska gets the bricks that are free of cracks. In order to complete the task correctly, you must take a brick in your left hand and use a picking to mark the location of the site while maintaining its weight on its ribs.

Along the designated line, marking is applied at an angle. Next, the brick’s side edges are used to roll up the corners. The staged surfaces will appear uneven and rough; therefore, brick is used to smooth them out.

To split brick into flat pieces (a process known as stovers), you need to use high-quality, crack-free brick. We also use weight to carry out the joke process.

Specifics of the brick splitting

The brick is also taken into the left hand and the portion that needs to be separated is measured on it if it needs to be divided in half. Then a shallow groove appears through the marked line on the spoon side of the brick. Subsequently, the brick is used to reduce the furrowing, and a hard strike with a fast-moving hammer is applied to the desired line.

Techniques for splitting bricks: 2

If you need to split a smaller portion out of a whole brick, a groove is made on all sides of the brick where the split will eventually occur. In this instance, he takes a powerful blow to the furrow from one of the spoon sides, splitting him in two. You can break the corner portion in the same manner, if needed.

If you need to split the brick along rather than across, you mark the narrow, lateral side of it and create a deeper groove because splitting along this side can be much harder and cause crumbling.

If you need to twist the brick’s corners, you’ll need a specialized tool. A grinder or machine with a stone surrounding it will work well.

Preparation of a masonry solution

The creation of a clay solution, which is used to lay the furnace’s main array, is a crucial step in the process. It is important to understand that a clay solution is not appropriate for setting up a foundation or building a chimney. More often than not, clay solutions are mixed with multiple parts of cement or concrete mixtures are used for this purpose.

The quality of the pantry solution directly affects the furnace’s durability and strength.

The thickness of the stove pantry shouldn’t be more than 8 mm to prevent cracks from forming on it. These cracks allow oxygen to enter the structure and lower the furnace’s efficiency. Furthermore, carbon monoxide leaks into the space during furnace operation, posing a serious risk to people’s health and possibly lives. As a result, fine clay and sifted small sand with a sandwich fraction of no more than 1 mm must be used to prepare the solution. The mixture should be smooth, free of lumps and scattered debris.

There are three types of clay solutions: normal, fat, and skinny. The right kind of clay is directly responsible for this attribute.

The experimental method determines the required ratios of the solution’s component parts.

• Skinny solutions are not plastic, fragile and greatly crumble.
• Normal mixtures have the correct proportions and consist of the average fat content of clay and sifted sand. They are moderately plastic, practically do not crack after completely drying out, do not give strong shrinkage and do not change their volume. Therefore, they will be the most suitable option for stove masonry.
• Fat solutions are plastic, but tend to crack when drying out. But this composition of the mixture can be fixed by "imprisoned" by the addition of sand.

Plasticity and the proper density of the clay solution are equally crucial. As a result, the masonry mixture should have a consistency that is similar to the average dough density and be easy to squeeze out under the force of two soaked bricks.

The consistency ought to be such that the brick seams can be treated when an excess of the solution is applied.

Prior to combining the solution, the clay’s quality must be examined. There are three ways to verify the final solution, but first it needs to be created using the method of choosing ingredients: equal parts of sand and clay.

Usually, a few solutions are made in tiny amounts. Different proportions are given in each of the solutions:

• Pure clay without adding sand.
• Clay 90%, sand 10%.
• Clay 75%, sand 25%.
• Clay 25%, sand 75%.

Water is added to the solutions and thoroughly mixed until the mixture has the consistency of thick dough that is not sticky to the hands. You can then move on to its tests.

A. Each variation of the solution is formed into balls measuring 35 x 40 mm in diameter and a plate measuring 15 x 25 mm in thickness. For seven to nine days, these products are allowed to air dry at room temperature.

Following this period, you must verify. Products with the required proportions for stove masonry are those that gave less cracks and did not break up when balls were thrown from a height of 1000 mm to the floor.

A solution rolled into balls can be compressed to a thickness of 7 mm between two wooden plates, then allowed to dry at room temperature. The option that produces the fewest cracks is chosen.

B. Checking for a gap is an additional test option that doesn’t require prolonged waiting. To do this, flagella measuring 10 × 15 mm and 120 ÷ 170 mm in length are created using solutions with varied proportions. The flagella then attempt to elongate. The mixture is appropriate, with the tourniquet that will rupture, stretched out to a thickness of 2 ÷ 3 mm at the gap.

INT. The third alternative could involve encasing pre-made solutions into a tourniquet and revolving it around a 40 x 50 mm round wooden stick. For panting work, the solution used to make the tourniquet is ideal because it remained intact and gave fewer cracks when dried.

Selecting the best option based on ratios, it needs to be properly mixed.

• Clay is soaked for one – two days, and then in a wet state is wiped through a sieve made of a metal mesh with cells of 3 ÷ 3.5 mm.
• The sand is sifted.
• Further, the right amount of clay and sand is measured, according to, identified by experimentally proportions, and then thoroughly mixed to a homogeneous state.

An appropriately prepared solution maintains its adhesive properties for a finite amount of time. All you have to do is add liquids and thoroughly mix it once more if it has dried.

For laying chamoty bricks, a unique solution made of pure clay and chamotis sand in a 1:1 ratio is ready.

The stove mixture’s cost

stove mantry

General recommendations for the masonry of the brick furnace

Marking the first row and the masonry itself can be done once the foundation reaches the required strength and bricks, solution, metal, and cast-iron parts are ready.

A lot is dependent upon the first row’s superior masonry.

Bricks are laid out dry along the perimeter of the first row on the waterproofing sheet (roofing material), covered on the foundation with an indentation from its edge. The corner bricks are installed first, followed by the intermediate bricks around the perimeter. A 5 ÷ 6 mm space must be left between them, and this space will be filled with solution during the control masonry process. The construction level and corner are used to measure the corners. Using a roulette, they measure the diagonals of the row to ensure that it is arranged evenly; they must all be the same length.

Verifying the furnace’s first row’s diagonals

The highest level of accuracy should be used when taking measurements because the geometry of the first row is crucial to the overall furnace structure. To ensure precision when executing a control masonry, the designated row needs to be marked with chalk.

The row is then arranged on the solution. On the first, corner brick, a thin layer of solution is applied; on the second, thicker. The building level is then put on top of two brick stacks and pressed down onto the second brick to combine them into a perfectly horizontal plane. The plan calls for laying out bricks three and four in the same manner, and so forth.

The arrangement of the rows must always be accompanied by a horizontal plane check.

Vertical cord-tutes are pulled in from the outside and fastened to the ceiling and floor so that the masonry at the furnace’s corners is even. When building a stove for the first time, formwork bars should be installed from the ceiling to the floor in place of cords. They are firmly fixed in the confirmed position and adjusted in accordance with the construction level.

If one lacks sufficient laying experience, it is advised to construct a formwork out of bars, as this will reduce the possibility of mistakes.

After that, you can start laying the other rows. The ability to apply and distribute the solution correctly, lay the brick, and measure the amount of space between the bricks will all affect how accurate it is.

At this point, the first laid row is treated with a 9 × 10 mm solution using a trowel or spatula.

On top of it, an angular brick is placed. Next, a solution is applied and defended to the second brick’s end side. The second brick is placed where it will be pressed into place and, if needed, hammered into place. The trowel is used to choose the solution that was applied in between the rows. In order to prevent the solution from having time to grab hold of the bricks, it is also preferable to carefully clean them right away.

Methods for coating bricks with a masonry solution

Use wooden or plastic racks-kalibrators that are the same thickness as the required seams if you are unsure about the seams’ final appearance. These calibration devices are placed on the completed row prior to the subsequent installation. These racks must be sufficiently prepared to accommodate three rows. After these ranks are laid out, the rails are pulled out and moved to the top, and so on, all the way to the top of the built structure.

A unique instrument known as "extensions" is used to carefully process the seams if finishing material is not applied to the furnace walls.

Processing of swed "for embroidery"

It is crucial to remember that the subsequent furnace masonry row shouldn’t start until the preceding one is finished. "Forested" is not permitted.

The construction level inevitably controls each row’s horizontality.

The inner walls’ solution must be eliminated in order for heated air to flow through the internal channels without encountering any barriers in the form of a resultant solution and to glide effortlessly along the walls from the furnace chamber to the chimney pipe. A brush from a milate can be used for this procedure. It should be moistened with water and wiped with an unrequited solution if needed. Every 4 × 5 rows or whenever a vertical floor that closes the oven cavity needs to be installed, a comparable grout is applied.

In the event that the furnace’s exterior finish is planned, a plaster solution made up of equal parts sand, clay, and lime is applied. This composition has 0.2 × 0.3 parts chopped asbestos added for heat resistance. It is true that the use of asbestos in residential buildings is not encouraged by current sanitary regulations.

Any furnace’s design includes a fairly large number of different ceilings, each with unique qualities based on where they are placed.

Thus, it is best to produce this without metal parts when blocking the fuel chamber door and the furnace’s internal openings.

Illustrations of castle floors

Should you choose a model with an arched overlap of the hob, a unique semicircular formwork will show the arch. We call this type of formwork "circled."

Because the seams of the arched arches must be ligated in order for them to be completed, the masonry of the arches implies that the number of rows in the arch is always odd. The seams in the lower portion of the arch should be precisely straight and no thicker than 5 mm.

Utilizing a circle to lay an arched brick arch

The arch is laid out starting below its gemple, circling one side at a time, and then moving on to the other until the central, last castle row is laid out.

• Installation of furnace and metal elements.

There should be a heat gap between the steel and cast iron components and the brickwork.

Since all of the furnace’s metal components expand when heated, asbestos material is used to create thermal gaps around them. Sometimes an asbestos cord is used, and other times the entire sheet of this material is cut into stripes the right width and length. As a result, stripes are placed under the hob and an asbestos cord is used to wrap the doors of the furnace chamber and oven.

Putting down asbestos strips before putting the stove in

Wire twisting is used to fix metal doors in masonry seams. There are unique "ears" on the back wall of the metal door frame that are always used to insert the wire before twisting its ends together.

The upper wire twists between the rows, one of which will be at the same level as the upper portion of the door frame and the other above it. The wire fixed on the lower "ears" is fried into the seams of the row on which the door is installed.

Installing cast iron doors and securing the wire between brickwork

The door is set using a plumb line or in accordance with the construction level before the seams are fixed.

Since the blowing and food doors don’t get very hot, they don’t need the asbestos cord to be wound. Clay solution can be used to seal the spaces between them and the brick.

If the furnace door is to be blocked by a metal strip, an asbestos gasket must be made between the strip and the frame.

Make sure the solution does not fall into the guide grooves when installing the valves.

Additionally, the smoke gap frame is mounted on a clay solution; however, caution must be used during this process to prevent the solution from getting into the frame’s grooves where the gate is supposed to go.

Dry the finished furnace

It is not possible to drown the furnace at full power as soon as construction is finished, or else all of the work would be ruined. As a result, it must first be dried, which is done in the following order:

• All doors and valves open in the furnace, and in this state it is left for a period of 7 to 10 days, depending on the surrounding temperature of the air. Excessive moisture from the solution and the bricks themselves in this case will evaporate naturally.

Although forced drying is not ideal, it must be used in certain situations, such as when the street temperature is too low to allow for a high-quality drying of the solution. To achieve this, a 200 × 300 W conventional electric bulb is placed inside the furnace chamber and left burning for the duration of the drying process, which will take six to ten days.

• After this time, the furnace begins to be heated with a small number of chips or paper, starting with 0.5 kg of fuel and daily adding 0.2 kg to this amount. This process is carried out for about 10 days. Well, after that, you can already start a full -fledged furnace of a well -dried structure.

Information about what constitutes a stove for long-term firewood burning may be of interest to you.

The heating-welding furnace "Swede" with a lounger

General characteristics and necessary materials

A guide to the masonry of the heating and welding furnace with a lounger will be provided in this subsection of the publication. Engineer G. Reznik created this model of the "Swede" principle. One could argue that this type of furnace has one of the most well-liked designs because of its high functionality, small size, and straightforward internal channel arrangement. Furthermore, the "Swede," with its small size, is more efficient than the Russian stove, which takes up a fair amount of space in the house.

The Swedish type heating and welding furnace, developed by G. Reznika, with a warm stove

In every way, the "Swede" of this design is practical. Hence, if it is placed in a wall that divides two spaces, like a kitchen and a bedroom, a sizable portion of the heated wall will warm the living room, and a warm oven that is connected to a stove can be used as a beet station. A handy hob and drying chambers for various purposes—like gathering dried fruits and vegetables and winter-proofing medicinal herbs—will be added to the kitchen. Furthermore, drying will occur under natural circumstances at the best temperatures for the intended purpose.

In relation to its functional attributes, the furnace’s dimensions are relatively small, measuring 765 x 1145 mm at the base (3 x 4.5 bricks). The bed measures 635 x 1785 mm, or 2.5 x 7 bricks. The structure’s total height, including the nozzle pipe, is 1890 mm, making it appropriate for rooms with relatively low ceilings. With these specifications, the furnace can heat rooms up to 35 square meters in total area, and the heat transfer from the structure is 3500 W.

There are two operating modes available in this design: "winter," which allows you to use the entire furnace, and "summer," which restricts use to the hob and the camera.

The design’s dependability and durability are increased by the fireclay brick lining inside the fuel chamber.

The following supplies and metal components are required for masonry:

Name of the material and elements	Size in mm or other parameters	Number in pieces (kg)
Hardened red brick	M-200	866 pcs.
Shamotnoy fire -resistant brick	Sh-8	139 pcs.
Clay	Fat	180 kg
Sand	purified	280 kg
Hob	310 x 650	1 PC.
Grate	240 x 415	1 PC.
Top door	210 x 250	1 PC.
Food door	70 x 130	5 pieces.
Puncher door	140 x 250	1 PC.
Smoke valve	130 x 250	1 PC.
Summer move	130 x 250	1 PC.
Steel corner	50 x 50 x 5 x 735	1 PC.
Steel strip	50 x 5 x 250	4 things.
	50 x 5 x 360	14 pcs.
	50 x 5 x 735	1 PC.
Steel sheet	360 x 375	1 PC.
Baptist sheet	500 x 700	1 PC.

Additionally, in order to create heat clearances between metal elements and bricks, it is necessary to stock up on an asbestos sheet and a cord made of the same material. Additionally, a 2 × 3 mm flowed steel wire will be needed to secure the structure’s steel and cast iron details.

Information regarding the small wood stoves for a summer home might be of interest to you.

The process of laying the “Swede” stove with a lounger

First, a few examples that will make it easier to understand the intricate details of the furnace structure are as follows:

A portion of the laid bed is depicted in the diagram.

There is a section where the internal chimney channels of the structures that run along the furnace’s back wall are easily seen.

The front portion of the building, which is where the furnace and hob’s internal wiring are located.

You can move on to more useful masonry. The table describes each item as it is arranged, highlighting its subtleties:

Illustration with a scheme-fence	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first row is 76 bricks. The first row should be bred perfectly horizontally, in compliance with the straight external and internal corner of the masonry.
	The second row is 73 bricks. The number are also continuous, but less than the previous one in size by 50 mm for each of the sides. In places where the blunt and food door will be installed, cutouts are made along the edge of the brick, a depth of 20 mm, by the type of niche. They are needed for the convenience of the subsequent installation of cast -iron elements (shown by an arrow).
	Further, on the same row, the cleaning door of 130 × 70 mm and a blowing 140 × 250 mm is installed. Instead of food doors, some stovers install halves of bricks that are laid without solution.
	The third row consists of 35 red and 6½ chamotis bricks. This series is also less than the previous one around the perimeter, but this time during work, you need to focus on the dimensions indicated in the order. On this row, a horizontal channel of the furnace and a couch itself is formed, as well as a blowing (ash) chamber. In the central part of the furnace, another camera is formed, which will not be used, it is needed for a longer heat conservation. Brick on the left side of the blowing chamber is cut off obliquely (shown by an arrow).
	The fourth row consists of 35 red and 5½ chamotis bricks. Bricks installed on the left side of the blower chamber are cut obliquely (shown by the yellow arrow). The ash door on top is shifted by two steel stripes size 50x5x360 mm (shown by a green arrow).
	Fifth row – 30 red and 16½ chamotis bricks. cuts (shown by arrows) – a seat for a grate in a size of 240 × 415 mm are made in bricks above the ash chamber.
	Continuation of the fifth row. The central chamber is shifted by four steel stripes in size of 50 × 5 × 250 mm (shown by the yellow arrow). To increase the heat capacity of the furnace, this camera can be filled with sand, stones, but you can leave it in a hollow. is put in place with a grate (shown by a green arrow).
	The sixth row. For this row, 32 ½ red and 18 chamotis bricks will be required. The horizontal channel will become a base for a vertical chimney. The space under the bed is divided into 7 parts. around the grate, the walls of the fuel chamber of the furnace are formed.
	The seventh row consists of 36½ red and 11 chamotis bricks. The vertical chimney decreases to 190 × 130 mm by shifting it with brick. At the same stage, a top -loading chamber door is installed 210 × 250 mm (shown by an arrow).
	Eighth row. laid out in accordance with a scheme of 38 red and 12 chamotis bricks.
	The ninth row consists of 35½ red and 12½ chamotis bricks. on this row between the fuel chamber and the space under the lounger forms a channel that is connected to the chimney passages of the bed. Brick, which will be installed between the top chamber and vertical chimney, is cut off on both sides in the upper part at an angle (shown by the arrow). Thus, the passage between the firebox and other chimney channels of the furnace begins to form. Here it is necessary to take into account that the upper part of the furnace door and the top of the brick cut on both sides of the brick should be at the same level. Subject to the installation of the door higher by one row, the combustion products would have the possibility of free exit to the room, when opening the door of the drowning furnace.
	The tenth row is laid out of 36 red and 8 chamotis bricks. At this stage of work, the furnace chamber is connected to the vertical channel. Red and chamotis bricks located on both sides above the door of the furnace are cut off from above from above (shown by the yellow arrow), since a brick, cut off from the bottom from the bottom, is also laid between them on the principle of the castle, also at an angle. Further, the formed horizontal channel is divided into two parts – small right and large left. Part of the bricks forming the canal and located on its left side are cut in the upper part obliquely (shown by a green arrow).
	On the same row, red brick and ½ chamotis brick (shown by arrows) crash into the remaining castle connector above the door of the furnace.
	The 11th row consists of 54 red and 9 chamotis bricks. at this stage with bricks overlap the space under the bed. Its size increases due to the move of the extreme bricks out by 30 mm, its exact parameters are shown in the scheme-bunker. The removal of the walls of the furnace continues, bricks in it and chimneine canals are cut obliquely – on the top from above, on the channels from below (shown respectively with yellow and green arrows).
	The 12th row is laid out of 49½ red and 16 chamotis bricks. on this row, the bed is overlapped a second time, also with its increase in size – the extreme bricks move out to 30 mm. Three vertical chimney channels are formed along the back wall of the furnace. The middle and left canal are connected from below with a common space, and the right is combined with the output channel of the bed. Bricks forming the right and middle channel are cut off from below (shown by yellow arrows). In bricks framing the furnace chamber, a groove is cut – a seat for mounting the hob (green arrows). Moreover, the sizes of each side of the seat should be larger than the plate for 5 mm.
	On the same row, the hob 310 × 650 mm is mounted (shown by an arrow).
	The 13th row is 49 red and 7 chamotis bricks. At this stage, the walls of the hobs begin to form. The bed is overlapped by the third layer of brick, and its dimensions are returned to the original. For this, the bricks of this row move inward. On the diagram, you can well consider the forming vertical channels – the main, located on the left side of the hob and three located along the back wall.
	The 14th row is laid out of 16 red and 4 chamotis bricks. only a stove is being built from this row, since the masonry of the bed is already completely completed. Two halves of bricks are laid in the back wall of the furnace, which should protrude beyond the masonry of 25 mm (shown by arrows). They are needed in order to be removed to clean the channels.
	The 15th row consists of 14½ and 3 chamotis bricks. When laying it out, the same halves of bricks are installed above the installed halves of bricks (shown by arrows).
	The 16th row is laid out in accordance with the scheme, and consists of 15 red and 3 chamotis bricks.
	The 17th row is also displayed according to the presented scheme, of 14½ red and 3 chamotis bricks.
	The 18th row consists of 14 red and 2½ chamotis bricks. A passage (shown by an arrow) is made in the left wall of the hob, where the governing chamber ventilation door will be installed, which is opened during cooking.
	18th row. Further, on the same row, a 70 × 130 mm door is installed in the left ventilation pass (shown by the yellow arrow). Then, a steel strip 50 × 5 × 735 (green arrow) is laid on the walls of the hob for its overlap, and a corner of 50x50x5x735 mm (blue arrow) is laid on their edge).
	19th row, consists of 16 ½ red and 3 chamotis bricks. At this stage, the facade part of the hob is blocked by the brick. brick is laid on a steel strip and corner.
	Further, on the same row, the hob is overlapped with a completely sheet of roofing iron 360 × 375 mm (shown by the yellow arrow), on top of which five steel stripes 50 × 5 × 360 mm are laid (green arrows). Metal sheet gives the ceiling of the hob of the oak -up appearance.
	The 20th row consists of 20½ red and 5 chamotis bricks. They completely overlap the hob, and on the main chimney channel in bricks, a landing place (shown by an arrow) is cut out to install the “Summer” shift.
	Further, on the same row, a valve of 130 × 250 mm (shown by an arrow) is installed on the landing place.
	21st row, its masonry involves the use of 21 red and 5 chamotis bricks. laid out a series according to the scheme. Bricks framing the left vertical canal from the side of the main chimneine canal in the upper part are cut obliquely (shown by the yellow arrow). Brick, laid between the middle and right vertical channels, is cut off from both sides obliquely (green arrow).
	The 22nd row consists of 17 red bricks. When laying out this series, the left and main, as well as the middle and right channels are united. The formation of two drying cameras is underway. In the posterior wall of the large drying chamber and the posterior wall of the combined main and left channels are installed on a half of the brick, which can be removed if necessary to clean the channels (shown by arrows).
	The 23rd row consists of 16½ red bricks. To overlap the area of the left vertical channel, three steel stripes 50 × 5 × 360 mm are laid above it (shown by arrows).
	24th row is laid out of 20 ½ red bricks. At this stage, bricks of the left vertical channel are overlapped, only a hole of 130×260 mm is left, for the main chimney channel. bricks that form the back wall of the main chimney canal, from below are cut obliquely (shown by the yellow arrow). Two steel stripes 50 × 5 × 360 mm (green arrows) are laid on the facade part of the drying chamber.
	The 25th row consists of 30 red bricks. At this stage, there is an overlap of the right and middle vertical channels, as well as the facade part of a large and all small chamber. Then the open space of the large drying chamber is overlapped with two steel stripes of 50 × 5 × 360 mm (shown by arrows). Bricks in laying the side and facade sides of the furnace are advanced forward by 30 mm. The drawings indicate the dimensions that should turn out as a result of this displacement.
	The 26th row is laid out of 31½ red bricks. At this stage, the entire top of the furnace is overlapped, except for the hole for the main fluorine canal. This series continues the expansion of the previous one, that is, it also on it and parts of the side sides protrude another 30 mm each. All sizes of protrusions are indicated on the drawing-bipper.
	The 27th row consists of 26 red bricks. At this stage, the size of the rectangular plane returns to the original, that is, the bricks move from the edge, according to the sizes indicated on the diagram.
	The 28th row is laid out of 5 red bricks, and is the basis of a nozzle pipe. cuts (shown by the yellow arrow) for the planting place of the chimney valve 130 × 250 mm are made from the inner edges on the bricks. After that, the valve itself (green arrow) is installed.
	The 29th row also consists of 5 red bricks, and is the second side of the pipe. Further lamping of the chimney is already following.

Even a novice stove builder can successfully construct this furnace, thanks to its relatively simple departmental and channel designs, provided they pay close attention to all of the instructions and adhere to the scheme-abdomen. The most important thing in this work is to accurately and slowly configure each row.

An instructional video detailing the masonry process of a small brick stove suitable for a summer home is included as a "bonus." See our article for more on pyrolysis boilers.

Video: how to fold a compact brick furnace for a summer residence

When it comes to heating and insulating your home effectively, few options rival the warmth and charm of a brick stove fueled by firewood. Brick stoves have been a cornerstone of home heating for centuries, offering not only reliable warmth but also a cozy ambiance that enhances the comfort of any living space. These stoves efficiently burn firewood, providing steady heat while minimizing fuel consumption. Additionally, the thermal mass of brick retains heat long after the fire has died down, ensuring a sustained warmth throughout the day or night. Beyond their heating capabilities, brick stoves contribute to the insulation of the house, helping to maintain a comfortable indoor temperature even in colder climates. With their durability and timeless appeal, brick stoves represent a timeless investment in both practicality and aesthetics for any home.

Afanasyev Evgeny, Chief Editor

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