Brick stove with your own hands

A brick stove sticks out as a classic choice for effectively and sustainably heating your house. In addition to offering warmth in the colder months, it gives any area a homey feel. The possibility of building a brick stove yourself is what makes them so alluring. This do-it-yourself method not only saves costs but also enables customization to meet your unique requirements and tastes.

Although building a brick stove may initially seem like a difficult undertaking, it can actually be a rewarding project with the correct advice and a little perseverance. Building a brick stove is an engaging project that encourages a closer bond with your house, regardless of your level of experience with do-it-yourself projects.

The outstanding heat retention capabilities of a brick stove are among its main advantages. Brick stoves hold heat for longer periods of time, providing constant warmth throughout your home, in contrast to metal stoves, which rapidly lose heat when the fire goes out. This thermal mass effect lowers heating costs by reducing the need for frequent refueling and increasing energy efficiency.

In addition, a brick stove is an environmentally friendly and sustainable heating choice. You can reduce the carbon footprint of production and transportation by using locally sourced materials like clay bricks and natural mortar. A well-built brick stove will also last longer, requiring less resources to be used for replacements, which lessens its environmental impact.

Materials needed	Step-by-step instructions
Bricks, mortar, fireproof insulation, stove door, stovepipe	1. Choose location and prepare base. 2. Build stove base with bricks and mortar. 3. Construct stove walls layer by layer. 4. Install fireproof insulation. 5. Add stove door and stovepipe.

In the world of home heating and insulation, building a brick stove with your own hands stands out as a timeless and practical endeavor. Beyond mere functionality, it embodies a connection to tradition and craftsmanship while offering tangible benefits for modern living. Crafting your brick stove not only provides an efficient and reliable heat source but also fosters a sense of self-sufficiency and satisfaction. From gathering the materials to carefully laying each brick, the process encourages mindfulness and attention to detail. Moreover, a well-built brick stove can significantly reduce heating costs, enhance indoor air quality, and even serve as a focal point of cozy gatherings. Whether you"re drawn to the rustic charm or the practical advantages, embarking on this DIY project promises both warmth and fulfillment for your home.

How, using drawings, to put together brick stoves for a house with a cooking stove with their own hands

Brick stoves with a cooktop are versatile appliances that can be used for cooking, heating water, and heating the entire house. Stove designs vary from one another. from the most basic and portable ones that you can construct yourself to the intricate multipurpose ones that are best left to the expertise of a professional stove builder.

What it should be

Getting a stove for cooking seems to be as simple as using your hands to replace the brick oven’s appropriate surface with a metal insert. It’s far more intricate in reality than that. The proper arrangement of its components is crucial to the thermophysical processes taking place within the stove, which is a complex apparatus.

Furnaces of this kind have specific requirements. It must both efficiently store heat within the brickwork’s thickness and absorb a sizable portion of the heat in order to heat the cooking surface. During summer, when there’s no need to heat the house, the cooking stove should heat up rapidly while using minimal fuel.

Requirements

Any material that can heat up to a high temperature when the stove is heated can theoretically be used for the cooking surface. In actuality, though, cast iron stoves with removable lids covering the holes are utilized.

You can access the temperature-varying stove zones thanks to this design. Unlike steel, cast iron has a low thermal conductivity, so food can be heated on the plate as well as cooked or stewed "on low heat." Additionally, by opening the lid, you can quickly boil water or fry food in a pan by directly heating the dish over an open flame.

The most useful are the burners. as seen in the picture, made up of concentric rings with varying diameters that are adjustable to fit the cookware’s bottom size. Furthermore, the stove is resistant to damage from repeated heating and cooling cycles because the spaces between the rings account for the thermal expansion of cast iron caused by overheating. Stoves made of solid cast iron need more care when firing and are less dependable.

Which brick is best for a masonry stove that has a cooking unit attached? Generally speaking, brick comes in two varieties when it comes to stove schemes and arrangements for homes, cottages, or saunas: regular ceramic full-body brick and fireproof fireclay, which is typically shown in yellow. The areas that receive the highest heat loads during heating are arranged using the fireclay bricks. The area of the flue channel right after the furnace chamber, the stove’s vault and fuel box.

The enhanced heat capacity of fireclay brick is the primary distinction. Compared to ceramic bricks, it can retain and release the generated heat for a longer amount of time more effectively. This is an indisputable benefit for installing a heating stove, particularly a sauna stove.

However, the higher heat capacity of fireclay is more of a drawback if the stove is primarily used for cooking, as it will absorb a large portion of the heat and increase cooking time. Cooking on such a stove in the summer will be impossible because the room will get stuffy and hot.

Use of fireclay bricks should be limited if cooking is the primary use of the stove!

There are many different types of cooking and heating stoves. Every stoveman likely keeps a few well-tested blueprints and schemes on hand, which they use to perform masonry with their own hands. However, they are all derived from well-known ones, which are covered in more detail below.

Swedish oven

"Swede" was initially intended to serve a number of purposes. a broad range of foods can be heated, prepared, dried, and kept warm. The oven’s design is meticulously crafted, featuring a cooking surface, oven, and perfectly heated niches/stoves. Furthermore, the stove’s body receives uniform heating from bottom to top thanks to the design of the smoke channels. This maintains a constant temperature in the space.

The oven, which is visible in the picture, is a characteristic feature of the Swedish stove. Furthermore, it serves purposes other than baking and baking dishes. Adjacent to the firebox and set back from it by a thin layer of masonry is the oven. The stove, set in a niche, forms the vault of the firebox. The cooking surface and the wall separating the fuel compartment and the oven are thoroughly heated right away after lighting the fire.

When the furnace is running during the winter, convection currents from the stove and oven heat the room initially. This is because the stove’s walls heat up after the fire is extinguished. Due to continuous air circulation, the cooking surface never overheats.

Cooking is the primary use of the oven during the summer. Since there is no temperature difference, there is no intense convection, and the stove can be adequately heated with a small amount of fuel. In order to ensure that the flue gases enter the ducts fully burned out, the oven is also heated, producing a zone of high temperature at the fuel box’s outlet. The oven’s body receives very little heat.

The figure below shows the layout and drawings for laying a Swedish-style stove by hand.

Classic "Swedish" masonry requires labor-intensive work with their own hands:

• red full-body bricks M 150 – 580 pieces;
• dry masonry mix on a clay base – 200 kg;
• cast iron grate;
• firebox door;
• Blower door;
• cast-iron stove with two collapsible burners;
• welded oven made of sheet metal;
• chimney latch – 2 pcs;
• cleaning – 3 pieces;
• equal-sided steel angle 40 mm – 170 cm;
• 5×50 mm steel strip – 65 cm;
• 10 mm thick flat slate – 1 sheet;
• roofing iron.

Solid concrete serves as the foundation for the Swedish woman’s home. It is required to create a 15-20 cm thick cushion of sand and gravel underneath the foundation. The foundation’s height, with two layers of reinforcement from a rod, must be at least 30 cm. Prior to starting the masonry, the foundation is left for at least 20 days in order to strengthen it.

With a floor level screed, the foundation is leveled. Insulating the furnace from the concrete is essential once it dries, or else a large portion of the heat will be lost.

1. on the foundation put a sheet of asbestos 3-4 mm thick with dimensions 30 cm larger than the dimensions of the oven on the sides and back and 60 cm – on the side of the furnace;
2. on the asbestos lay a heat reflector – foil or thin galvanized steel;
3. followed by another similar layer of asbestos with the same dimensions;
4. sheet of roofing iron with the same indents as asbestos;
5. over iron – technical felt impregnated with clay milk on the size of the stove.

On top of the felt after it dries, start laying the oven according to the scheme-arrangement :
The first two rows – solid. They form the base of the stove. The third and fourth – install the under-blower door, cleaning and begin to form the lower part of the chimney and ash pan. In the 5th row install the grate and oven. In the 6th row continue laying out the flue ducts, install a partition between the oven and the furnace chamber. In the 7th row Place the firebox door and fasten it in rows 8 and 9. continue laying out the ducts. row 10 forms the support for the cooking surface. To install it correctly, you must first lay the brick on dry, attach the stove and mark the laying grooves.

Bricks are numbered for ease of masonry; the row is disassembled, and with the use of a bolt cutter, recesses are selected for the stove’s laying, leaving a 5 mm gap on all sides. The slab is then put on clay-asbestos liquid mortar, and the row is put together on masonry mortar. Crushed asbestos was added to masonry mortar that had been thinned to the consistency of sour cream. It is essential to use a level to check the slab after it has been laid. If there are differences in size between the burners, the bigger one is positioned above the firebox and the smaller one is above the oven.

Guidelines for setting the stove: a video

Lay out the walls of the niche above the stove and the flue ducts in rows of 12 to 16. A flat slate sheet that fit the niche’s dimensions should be placed atop row 16, and rows 17 and 18 should be covered in bricks to create the stove’s overlap. The masonry then continues in the same pattern through row thirty. where a damper is installed before the necessary height of the chimney is laid.

Small cooking stove

The oven in a summer cottage or summer kitchen can be used exclusively for cooking. In this instance, material expenditure for the chimney stove is not necessary. On the stencil layout, a superb model of the cooking stove is displayed.

This multipurpose wood stove can be used for boiling, frying, baking, and it has an integrated tank for heating water. It can also be used as a cooking surface.

The facade’s sketch displays its components:

• 1 – firebox;
• 2 – ash pan and blowpipe;
• 3 – oven;
• 4 – water tank;
• 5 – cleaning door.

The stove is similar to a "Swedish" stove in terms of construction and heating method, but it lacks smoke ducts. A small quantity of fuel heats the furnace because the heated smoke travels straight down the chimney. Because the chimney exit is at the back, you can follow fire codes by using your hands to lead the pipe through the wall.

There is no need for more than 250 brick pieces on such a stove. which enables installation on the house’s floor without the need to build a foundation. In this instance, thermal insulation is also necessary, but it should be installed in the opposite order: a roofing iron sheet should be placed on the felt that has been impregnated with liquid clay mortar. The masonry starts on top of the sheet.

First two rows are solid, just like the Swede’s. Install the cleaning in the third row, the ash pan door in rows 4 and 5, the chimney form, and the chimney exit. Ash pan door overlap, oven, and water tank installed in row 6. Row Seven Place a grate at the base of the furnace, and then in rows 8 through 10, construct a partition between the oven and the firebox and install a fire door. 11 rows: overlap over the oven, tank, and firebox door. A recess for laying the slab is also located in the eleventh row.

A two-burner cast iron cooking surface is blocking the top of the stove. They are chosen so that the one with the highest temperature is above the furnace. Place the stove on the clay mortar with an asbestos addition, leaving a 5 mm space between each.

Kuznetsov stoves

Kuznetsov stoves are realizations of principle-new design stoves. They don’t have a complicated internal passageway system like channel stoves do, and the gas circulation takes place in hood cavities. The Kuznetsov stoves are known as cap stoves because of this characteristic. He invented summerhouse stoves, saunas, cooking appliances, and heating systems.

Heat is gradually released in channel ovens through the passage of hot gases through intricate labyrinths. This results in inconsistent heating and occasionally even the stove elements breaking down. For instance, in bath stoves with short channels, the gases do not have enough time to cool down, which lowers efficiency and causes the stove to warm the air.

Warm smoke rises into the hood in hood constructions; the hood is a cavity with an outlet at the bottom and a ceiling at the top. The stove’s walls are heated as the hot gas at the top of the hood gradually cools and moves downward. The figure depicts the gas circulation in the Kuznetsov cap ovens.

In order to achieve complete heat transfer, Kuznetsov stoves require two or three hoods. These hoods can be arranged horizontally in models with a lazhanka, or vertically, one above the other in stoves intended for bathrooms. Generally speaking, stoves used for cooking and heating require the hoods to be arranged vertically.

Either above the firebox or forming the vault of a lower hood is the cooking surface. The temperature on it will be more consistent in the second scenario. Below are pictures of the most well-liked Kuznetsov stove designs as well as poryadovki for masonry done by hand.

Kuznetsov stove intended for a bathroom

Video: The masonry pattern of Kuznetsov’s cooking and heating stove

Watch video: Kuznetsov bath stove

A cooking and heating stove is an essential feature of a country home or bathhouse, as well as a village home’s recreation area. It can be assembled by hand if you have a plan, drawings, poryadovki, and thorough instructions. It will warm the house and delight the owners with a variety of delectable and fresh dishes.

Popular masonry schemes for stoves with a stove

Heating and cooking stoves have been present in homes since ancient times. They acted as the main component of any rural house. These days, people living in private houses in the city, also do not refuse to install this structure. It has not lost its functionality, so it is actively used by many people.

Many people prefer not to turn on their heating system to its maximum capacity during the fall, when the house gets chilly, even if it runs on gas or electricity. In this instance, maintaining a cozy microclimate within the house will benefit the furnace. All that is needed to get the house warm is to toss a few logs into the furnace.

If you choose to build this structure for your house, you should take the task of building it very seriously. since it is anticipated that the stove will last for many years during construction. It makes no difference if you construct a stove using a stove or one that you build with your hands. For this reason, it will be very challenging to fix errors made during the construction process.

In reference to stoves, we observe that they are separated into designs appropriate for single- and double-story homes. Their heights are the primary distinction between them. The building can be intended solely for heating purposes or it can have a stove. The stove is not present in the second example as a constituent element. The number of rows in the design determines the height of the furnace, which they constructed by hand. We will also go into great detail about how to construct a stove in a private home using only their hands.

Materials for masonry

When laying the stove with your hands, the calculation of materials is a crucial step. Its service life is also impacted by the construction quality. The base dimensions of the stove that we will be discussing in this article are typically 90 × 90 cm. In terms of height, the construction is 2.1 meters short of the first floor ceiling at its highest point.

Prior to beginning the manual construction of a stove, you must buy the necessary supplies in large enough quantities for the stove’s construction. Throughout the work, it is required that:

• red brick M150 in the amount of 1085 pcs.;
• silicate bricks for construction of the firebox150 pcs. Fireclay can be used instead;
• sand – 80-100 buckets;
• clay -200 kg;
• corner 50×50 mm and 40×40 mm;
• steel wire 2 mm – 25 m;
• metal sheet 4 mm 1,5 × 1,5 m;
• roofing felt -3 m;
• 5 mm asbestos cord – 10 m;
• material for wall insulation.

The preparation of the necessary materials is another requirement for the foundation’s construction:

Furthermore, in order to build a fully functional stove with their own hands that can be used for cooking and home heating, they will need to buy cast iron parts:

• grate -1 pc.;
• hob with two burners -1pc.;
• gate valves – 3 pcs.;
• two doors for the furnace chamber and blowhole – 1 each.;
• cleaning doors – 5 pcs.

You can proceed to the active phase of work once the materials are ready and the builder has the tools he needs.

Given that the constructed structure has a substantial mass, make sure that the foundation is buried at least 80 cm when setting it up by hand. However, consideration should be given to the depth of freezing as well as the local climate when performing foundation work. Local builders can tell you more about it. Considering all of these factors, the furnace that was constructed by hand using the selected plan will last for a very long time.

A square-shaped excavation should be used to build the foundation. Its measurements should be 1.2 by 1.2 meters. With a shovel as a hand tool, you can easily dig it with your hands.

The pit’s bottom is tamped down once the excavation is finished. Then a sand cushion is positioned at the base of the roof. which makes it crucial to keep the layer at its ideal thickness of 10 to 15 cm. After a layer of 15 cm of crushed stone has been laid, it needs to be compacted, and then formwork needs to be put in. It ought to be completed with the understanding that it will traverse the foundation’s whole thickness.

The foundation pouring for the future furnace is done in phases. A mortar composed of cement and pebbles could make up the initial layers. Sand and cement concrete should be used to pour the top layer. The foundation should take a long time to solidify—at least three weeks—given the weight of the building. This is crucial because without it, the furnace—which they constructed by hand, even if it followed the selected plan—won’t last very long. It will become necessary to make repairs if there is a foundation crack.

After the stove base has solidified enough, the formwork is taken down and three layers of roofing felt are used as waterproofing material to cover the upper portion of the foundation. There will be bricklaying with your hands for the first time on it.

Laying the furnace with your own hands

The construction of a stove with their own hands is more intricate than that of a fireplace. As a result, the construction plan needs to be closely followed.

As a result of the foundation’s larger area than the base. It is necessary to mark the waterproofing. You can then start laying the first row after that.

Remember that the chimney channels shouldn’t be overly narrow if a vertical row masonry scheme is being used. They are at least 13 by 13 centimeters in size.

The heating and cooking stove’s well-organized design suggests that a blower chamber should be incorporated from the very first masonry rows. As soon as the second row is laid, the blower door is installed. It is first wrapped in asbestos cord and placed in the opening that is made for it.

A wire is wrapped around the door and clamped between two bricks during installation. The wire is bent to the sides once the masonry has completely framed it.

When they get to the fourth row of the masonry stove, they will see holes designed to allow heated air to circulate. The installation of the furnace grate takes place on the fifth. It is acceptable to use silicate bricks to construct the furnace wall and sill.

On the sixth row is where the firebox door is situated. Like the blower, it is wrapped in an asbestos cord.

In order to guarantee that air flows through the structure, extra attention must be paid to the hole shapes between 6 and 10 rows. If it is possible, the tenth row should be secured using a frame that is welded from a corner. The cooking panel is positioned on the pre-laid asbestos gasket on the eleventh row.

On the seventeenth row, the corner is laid. The 18th row of masonry will rest upon it, completing the framing of the chamber situated above the stove.

The drying chamber is formed on the 19th and 20th rows of masonry. The cleaning door installation is done on the nineteenth row.

The 24th row of masonry is once more where the metal corner is positioned. There will be a straight row of bricks placed on it. which will eventually become the dryer’s ceiling.

The 25th row has the cleaning door installed.

There are two sliders installed on the thirty-first row.

The following form the portion of the stove that goes to the second floor, and all subsequent rows up to the 38th function in accordance with the scheme. Take note that the stagecraft numbers this stove component differently. The following plan is followed when laying it out:

• installation of the door is performed on the 2-3rd row. It is used for cleaning;
• The installation of the chimney damper is carried out on the 27th row;
• part of the stove, installed on the second floor, should have the form of a wide chimney. It must be equipped with a latch and a chamber. Gradually it is replaced by a narrow pipe, which begins at the level of the 32nd row.

The flashing is brought out to the roof after the pipe has reached the attic.

An umbrella covers the upper portion of the pipe, keeping moisture and dust out of the interior.

Schemes of stoves

These days, stoves that are hand-built in private homes fall into two categories:

• devices of a modern sample;
• It is used for cleaning.

It is not difficult for them to build antiquated structures by hand. But because of their flawed construction, the chimney is not a wise choice. Stoves are typically found in homes and are distinguished by their functionality.

You should take the process of selecting them very seriously if you intend to build a stove or simply a structure for heating in your home by hand. Knowing the benefits of various stove designs will assist you in selecting the best option. In the event that a private residence already has an old-fashioned stove, building a structure "from scratch" is not necessary. Remodeling it will suffice, and you’ll have access to cooking and heating appliances.

You should first acquaint yourself with videos and other instructions explaining how this work is done by professionals in order to prevent mistakes during the remodeling process. Additionally, drawings must be used while working. By putting the knowledge you’ve learned to use, you can finish the project successfully and have a stove that you made with your own hands.

Double-decker stoves for the home

A double-decker stove is among the most popular kinds of stoves. When discussing its structure, we observe that it is made up of two structures, one on top of the other. The dimensions of each component in this construction are 165x51x238 cm. The lower part of the furnace produces 3200 kcal/h of heat, while the upper part produces 2600 kcal/h.

When you construct one of these structures by hand, brickwork with gaps separates the two structures. By doing this, you can lighten the stove’s weight and save a little money on the materials used in its construction. In addition to filling the gap between the upper and lower stove, the lining serves as the foundation for the first structure.

The construction of the upper and lower stoves is identical. A ductless chimney system is implemented in the scenario that is being examined. The gases enter the upper hood, which has a specialized nozzle, after entering the fuel box. The gases are lowered to the fuel box’s level at the bottom once they have cooled. After that, they enter the chimney by way of the spinner.

The lower stove has a smaller heating surface because it has a chimney in the upper part. There is a separate chimney that is a part of the upper structure. Its laying procedure is not difficult. Additionally simple is the gas flow scheme. The back wall has a door that needs to be used to clean the lower structure. It is necessary to clean the upper structure through the door. situated in the wall on the side. The double-deck stove can burn anthracite or coal as fuel. A gate valve is also installed in every pipe that is made in this furnace.

The upper portion of the cavities are frequently covered with reinforced concrete slabs. In addition to adding stability, this type of overlap strengthens the stove’s construction overall. Errors must be avoided when doing masonry work this size. After all, they will be very difficult to repair should they occur.

The layout of the chimney, which is part of the stove’s lower structure, requires careful consideration. The bottom structure in the side wall, which divides the second-floor chimneys, needs to be cleaned if there are any leaks in the masonry. If not, heat may escape the wall. It should be remembered that when the flue dampers are closed, this will also happen.

Whether they are square or rectangular in shape, stoves can be combined in any way with other types of stoves. Additionally, the kind of fuel is not very important. A stove that you build yourself can be a great way to heat a country home.

Square stoves with bottom heating

The measurements of a stove with this design are 102 x 102 x 238 cm. When it is operating, it produces 4200 kcal of heat per hour.

The fuel box, one of the stove’s key components, is built to a very high degree. Its side openings, which are used to extract gas through the side chambers of the furnace walls that are situated on the structure’s sides, also exhibit a symmetrical arrangement. After that, the gas travels downward through the chambers, which are connected by a unique channel beneath the fuel bed.

Through the lower twists, the gases from each side chamber enter the risers. Then they ascend to the upper side chambers. Collectively, they constitute the upper hood. whose three U-shaped cavities are present.

The cavities are positioned one next to the other. After rising, the gas will be trapped in the hood’s center and rear cavities before moving along the lower portion to the front plane to cool. The nozzle type chimney is linked to the front plane. The gas will then leak into the atmosphere from that location.

The upper hood and the two large chambers make up the three hoods in this stove’s design. Regarding the kind of fuel that can be utilized in the development of this design, we observe that it can be any kind. Refractory brick should be used in the furnace’s construction to lay out the walls of the fuel pit.

The stove in the home is a useful tool for economically producing a cozy microclimate. It can serve as the home’s primary heating system or be used as a backup heat source. It’s not necessary to hire a specialist to build this structure. If you understand all the details involved in building a furnace, you can construct one for yourself in your home. If the work is done well, you can have a furnace that will function well and last for many years.

• Author: Vadim Nikolaevich Lozinsky

Scheme of laying a stove with a stove with your own hands

Building a brick oven is becoming an increasingly popular theme. For starters, it’s thrilling and engaging for individuals who enjoy doing tasks by hand. Second, it saves tens of thousands of rubles, which would otherwise be needed to hire a professional stoveman. Thirdly, the furnace operates independently of public energy sources like electricity and gas. Fourth, the house has incredible comfort and coziness.

Furnace with your own hands?

Of course, since the furnace’s masonry requires careful attention to safety regulations due to its potential for fire, experienced stovemen are typically hired to complete the job. But it is possible to erect a stove with your own hands if you have masonry experience, faith in their abilities, and an eagerness to learn.

Choosing the type of furnace

You must first decide which tasks the future furnace should be able to complete. There are numerous variants, but let’s focus on a select few:

• Heating stove is intended solely for heating the house. Its masonry is easier than other stoves due to the simple arrangement;
• Heating and cooking stove has a cooking surface in addition to the heating function. It may only have a stove built in, and sometimes an oven as well. This is a more complex design, but also an additional gas savings;
• Fireplace stove quite stylish in appearance, such a design will decorate any country house. It offers convenient and quick ignition as well as efficient heating.

It is best for a novice to select square, basic stove variants, especially since these stove schemes are readily available online. Naturally, there are excellent options with a cooking stove for a residential home.

Place for the stove

Where should the stove be placed? Once you’ve decided on a suitable layout and have an idea for a stove in your head, this is the first question you must answer.

Options for stove layout:

• In the center central room. This arrangement will allow the kiln to give off as much heat as possible, as the kiln will be heated evenly on all sides;
• At the wall. This is the most frequent variant of placement, however, it is noted that with this option at the floor cold air walks near the floor.

How the stove is organized

The term "body" refers to the immediate structure of the stove, which includes everything from the floor to the very tip of the chimney.

What makes up a standard stove construction schematically?

1. Stove foundation;
2. Hydro- and heat insulation;
3. Chants – special holes in the form of legs, which give lower heating and some savings of bricks;
4. Blowpipe;
5. The entrance of the shower or air channel, which gives uniform heating of the entire area in height;
6. Blower door;
7. Spike;
8. Furnace door;
9. Furnace;
10. Furnace vault;
11. The mouth of the furnace;
12. Door for cleaning;
13. Pass – the bend of the convector channel of the stove;
14. Air convector of the stove;
15. Slider;
16. Smoke convector;
17. Slide-view, for closing off the chimney after heating;
18. Shower door;
19. Smoke channel of the chimney;
20. Stove roof;
21. Internal cutting of the chimney;
22. Ceiling;
23. Fire separation;
24. Extension of the chimney mouth or "otter".

Erection of the furnace with your own hands

You can start the practical work once you’ve become familiar with the stove’s standard structure and selected the model that best suits your needs with a clear general scheme and detailed layout.

Since a cooking stove is heavy on its own, it needs to be installed on a specific foundation when building a stove. It is necessary to cast and reinforce the foundation firmly.

It is necessary to pour sand down to the depth of the foundation itself between the main foundation and the furnace foundation. Foundations with an offset of 50 mm or more need to be reinforced both in thickness and on the perimeter.

Order of operations for laying the foundation:

• The dimensions of the future furnace are measured;
• The part of the floor that corresponds to the conceived perimeter of the stove is removed;
• Digging a hole for the foundation from half a meter to one meter;
• The bottom of the pit should be leveled with sand and crushed stone, then lined with broken bricks (stone) to dry;
• Further mastered reinforcement lattice with cells of 12-15 cm;
• We mix the most common solution for pouring from cement, sand and gravel, pour the first part of the slab;
• A reinforcing batten is placed on the not yet hardened mortar;
• After that, the second half of the mortar is poured, the surface is leveled with a level;
• While the foundation is still damp, do the following technique – through a sieve evenly sprinkle the surface with pure cement;
• The waterproofing is laid on the ready foundation. This can be roofing felt, hydroisol or another option;
• Pour a thin uniform layer of clean river sand on top, level it and wet it with water from a sprayer.

Option #2: Place 4-5 mm of asbestos cloth or basalt cardboard on top of two to three felt sheets, then place a sheet of roofing iron on top. The same basalt cardboard or felt bedding should be positioned beneath the iron. When building masonry, this bedding needs to be submerged in a highly diluted mortar. It is positioned wet on the iron surface and allowed to dry.

Now that the foundation is in place, you can get ready to build the stove.

Preparatory work

Now that you have the furnace’s layout and schemes to your liking, you just need to get started. Poryadovka is a very practical and even beginner-friendly method of laying each row of bricks. As soon as possible, you should gather all required supplies. With the orderings, where every brick is listed, calculating the quantity of bricks is quite simple. The terms for the regular and fireclay bricks in the images typically differ: Fireclay with shading and ceramic brick without.

Essential tools for the job:

• Red full-body ceramic brick for the body of the stove;
• Fireclay brick 230/114/65mm for areas in contact with fire;
• Stove hardware: doors, sliders, grate grate, grate grate grates, viushki and cast iron cooktop;
• Any well-bendable wire;
• Masonry mortar mixes (factory mixes are preferred) or clay with clean sand;
• Tools for masonry work.

Preparation of masonry mortar

First things first, a good masonry mortar needs to be worked into the mixture. Although pre-made mixtures are available, you can make them yourself using sand and clay. Excellent viscosity and strength characteristics characterize this mortar.

Sort the clay from the stones in order to make sure the first step in mortar preparation is clean. break up clay clumps. After soaking the clay in water for a few hours, strain the mixture using a sieve. Add the required amount of sand to the filtered mixture that has been stirred to the consistency of clay milk. The clay needs to absorb all of the water, and any extra should be immediately drained off. Sand and clay are mixed 1:1 while 1/8 water is added.

Be aware that if the brick is not briefly submerged in water before laying it, it will eventually draw moisture out of the mortar.

Laying bricks

Typically, the stove’s erection doesn’t begin for another month after it is laid.

Masonry tip: Make sure the mortar is evenly spread over the bricks to achieve slender brickwork. Building a unique stamping for uniform mortar application will be simpler for someone who is not experienced in bricklaying or masonry. This is a unique brick mold composed of wooden inserts and galvanized iron sheet. This mold’s edges are four millimeters higher than the brick faces, which facilitates mortar application and leveling. Then just lay down where you want to.

Estimated masonry work scheme:

• First lay out the ash pan and the bottom of the first hood with a twist;
• Further, the doors are inserted into the already dried masonry, which are fixed with galvanized wire;
• The grate of the grate grate is installed;
• The firebox is erected, which from the inside is laid with fireclay using the method of masonry "on the edge". The firebox door is fixed with a 2.5 mm steel plate and wire;
• On the 12th masonry row, the firebox is overlapped with a cast-iron cooking plate, and in the left part erect the lower hood and summer channel;
• The wall of the cooking chamber is laid out and the construction of the hood continues;
• Inside, in the corner of the cooking chamber, make a latch to fire the stove;
• On the 20th row, the chamber and the hood are overlapped.

Note: In order to create a summer passage for the cooking chamber, openings must be made in the solid masonry. Bricks are placed on steel corners to reinforce the masonry; this ensures that the course and vent don’t compromise the masonry’s strength.

• The entrance of the cooking chamber must be blocked with doors. It is most convenient to make them hinged, but if there is a desire, you can make them from heat-resistant glass;
• The hood and chamber are overlapped in two rows and proceed to the erection of the upper hood;
• In an accessible place install doors for cleaning from soot;
• The hood is made up to the required height and overlapped in two rows of masonry. To keep the heat better, you can seal the gap between the upper lintel and the stove with mineral wool;
• The stove itself is finished, it can be decorated with a decorative rim around the perimeter;
• Then follows the erection of the chimney according to the scheme, the pipe itself should be asbestos or metal, although brick versions are much more durable.

As an aside, the layer is carefully laid out using the dry-layer method in the brick kiln laying scheme. Only mortar masonry is done at that point.

Fixing the furnace parts

The stove’s design is fixed, meaning that the size of the metal fittings cannot be altered. Consequently, you must first purchase doors and all other components, as well as choose and modify the furnace’s scheme underneath them.

Every metal component is fastened using melted wire, which is highly flexible. The wire is inserted securely into the thickness of the masonry mortar after being positioned in specific holes in the masonry. The disadvantage of wire is that when heated, metal and brick expand in different ways. This wears down the masonry over time.

Novel: Fiberglass is an intriguing fix for metal components that need to be replaced with wire. Since it is made of recycled sand, when heated, its degree of expansion is nearly identical to that of brick.

Finalization and commissioning

If the body is on a sandy layer, the space between the furnace and the floor needs to be sealed with a fireplace sheet to keep sand from falling out. The brick structure itself can be embellished with folk patterns or finished with unique tiles and whitewashing. Despite this, it still looks very lovely even without any finishing, especially in the recently popular rough rustic style. With the firebox’s fuel door open, the stove should be allowed to dry out for approximately two weeks. You can only use the stove from this point on. In the firebox, burn some paper to check for drafts.

For any homeowner, building a brick stove by hand can be a satisfying and useful project. In addition to giving your house a little bit of traditional charm, it has several financial and energy-saving advantages. Bricks are a widely available and long-lasting material that can be used to create a dependable source of warmth for your living area.

The outstanding heat retention capabilities of a brick stove are among its main advantages. Your home will always be at a comfortable temperature because the dense bricks evenly store and radiate heat once they are heated. This helps you save money on heating bills by lowering energy consumption and minimizing the need for frequent refueling.

Building a brick stove also enables customization to meet your unique requirements and tastes. You have the option to customize the stove to blend in perfectly with your living area, whether you choose a straightforward design or add extra features like heated benches or cooking surfaces. A well-built brick stove can also provide dependable warmth for many years to come with the right upkeep and care, making it an investment worth doing for any homeowner.

In addition, building a brick stove can be a rewarding do-it-yourself project that makes you feel proud and accomplished. Even masonry novices can construct a stove with success if they plan ahead and pay close attention to detail. This not only gives homeowners more control over their heating options, but it also strengthens their bond with their house and increases their sense of independence.

To sum up, a brick stove provides a durable and effective heating option that blends usability and visual appeal. Building your own stove is a journey that will not only improve your home’s warmth and comfort but also provide you with invaluable knowledge and experience. So why not get your hands dirty and begin constructing your own brick stove right now?

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