Brick furnace design

Few things compare to the charm and efficiency of a brick furnace when it comes to keeping our homes warm and comfortable. An attractive feature that adds coziness and warmth to any home, a brick furnace does more than just provide heat. Beyond just being aesthetically pleasing, a brick furnace’s design is essential to providing your house with effective insulation and heating.

Brick furnaces, which provide sustainability and dependability, have withstood the test of time in contrast to contemporary heating systems. These furnaces were designed centuries ago, but the fundamental ideas behind them still hold true today. These furnaces offer a sustainable and natural means of heating your house by utilizing natural resources like clay bricks and the power of combustion.

Effective heat retention and distribution is a crucial feature of brick furnace design. Brick furnaces, in contrast to steel or metal furnaces, have a high thermal mass, which allows them to absorb heat, hold it, and release it gradually over time. This feature not only guarantees steady warmth but also lowers the need for continuous fuel consumption, which over time makes brick furnaces economical and energy-efficient.

Furthermore, a brick furnace’s design can be modified to accommodate unique requirements and tastes. There is an extensive array of options available to homeowners, ranging from classic freestanding models to more contemporary built-in versions. A brick furnace can be tailored to match your heating needs while bringing some personality into your living area, whether you’re looking to heat a single room or the entire house.

To help you choose and maximize a brick furnace for your house, we’ll explore various configurations, materials, and techniques as we delve deeper into the nuances of brick furnace design in this post. By the time you’re done, you’ll know everything there is to know about how this classic heating solution can improve your home’s efficiency and comfort.

Knowing how a brick furnace is designed is essential if you want to heat and insulate your house. A brick furnace is a dependable and effective way to heat a space, particularly in the winter. Comfort and energy efficiency are ensured by its design, which maximizes heat retention and distribution throughout your house. Every component, including the placement of the vents and the arrangement of the bricks, affects how well the furnace works. Through exploring the nuances of brick furnace design, homeowners can improve their heating systems and, in the process, create a comfortable and environmentally friendly home.

Design of brick furnaces and their choice

The size of the heated room and the intended uses of the furnace influence its design. It can be used for more than just heating the interior of the house; in addition, it can be used for cooking, drying clothes and food supplies, and even for sleeping. The chimney system can also be channel, mixed, or safe. Here, the primary function of any furnace is to heat the interior space as much as possible before the heated air and smoke escape.

Tools needed to lay brick furnaces.

Each species’ design includes components like the chimney, the combustion chamber, the ash chamber, a grate with grates, and a foundation where fuel elements are poured whole. It’s important to keep in mind that the side walls’ respective temperatures are always higher than the front and rear ends’.

There are quite a lot of constructive varieties of brick furnaces, and each of them has its own characteristics. Their drawings can be found in the special literature, they are very easily available. However, the most common is only a few of them. This is a simple rectangular stove, “Dutch”, a stove with a fireplace, “Swede” and a Russian stove. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, so the choice for each particular house is strictly individual. They always include both brick and metal parts, and the foundation can be concrete, laid out of natural stone or brick. Brick masonry must be placed in dressing, alternating ordinary brick with refractory. Consider in more detail the device of each of the above varieties.

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Simple rectangular furnace

The configuration of the rectangular furnace’s masonry.

The foundation for it can be made of reinforced concrete 20-25 cm thick, always covering a layer of roofing material for waterproofing. In the design of such a furnace, both ordinary and refractory bricks, simple and chamotis clay, small sifted sand and metal parts are used: frames with doors for the firebox, blowing and ashin, grate and gate valves for Vyushka. The fuel combustion chamber is located in the lower part of the entire structure, so it is heated from the floor of the room. As fuel, both firewood and coal or coal briquettes are used. This design is designed both for heating and for simultaneous cooking with this, so it is placed, as a rule, in the kitchen at home.

When laying out the brick of the lower row, it is worth remembering that the distance between the stove and the wall of the house should be at least 40 cm. The next above the lower row is the ash. Galls are placed over it in several rows, and the firebox camera is being built above them. It is covered with a cast -iron stove with burners on which food will be prepared, and between it and the furnace behind the gap is left for the output of the vertical exhaust channel. A cap for smoke channels of a cap of a cap of a cap in order for hot air, rising to the ceiling, and then giving heat to the side walls, cooled and sank into the next channel. From it, he is replaced by another same register, and then goes into the chimney, which is overlapped.

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Dutch -type oven

Diagram of a Dutch stove.

Since these types of stoves are typically only meant for heating, one of the living rooms may be home to one of these units. Their primary benefit is that they can hold a sizable amount of fuel and take up a comparatively small amount of space. Such a stove is very economical because of its vertical design, which maximizes the thermal energy it can provide to the room. The house stays warm for a very long time because it warms up gradually.

Similar to the preceding instance, the waterproofing material-covered foundation is where brickwork starts. The lack of a cast-iron hob is the primary advantageous distinction between the rectangular furnace and the "Dutch" furnace. The gas outlet system is situated directly above the furnace chamber, not to the side, where the furnace chamber exits immediately upward. It can be capaca and multichannel. These days, the most common configuration for these kinds of stoves is a two-colp system. A "Dutch" can be submerged in both stone coal and firewood.

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Traditional Russian stove

Russian stove masonry design.

It stands out for having the biggest possible dimensions, but its popularity is mostly attributed to a centuries-old folk tradition. A furnace with this kind of design can be used for sleeping one or two people in addition to heating and cooking. The Russian furnace can only be placed on the ground floor, and its foundation needs to be directly supported by the earth because such a heavy object needs a solid foundation. Furthermore, it shouldn’t be connected to the house’s foundation because of their interdependence, which may cause temperature differences to cause cracks to appear.

The plan depicts the furnace as a rectangular structure, with the large hob above the firebox serving as its main feature. Its surface is referred to as a pod, and above it is a vaulted overlap designed to catch sparks. The building’s chimney is in front of it. This type of stove uses very little metal and is constructed entirely of brick. Its primary drawback is that the room cannot be heated on the lower level, which means that the area above the floor of the house is always quite chilly. It can be submerged in kizyak, reeds, and other plant materials in addition to firewood. You cannot use coal.

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BECHING VARICTIONS “Swede”

Diagram of the stove.

Its portability, great efficiency, and compactness are among its key benefits. It can fit on a 1 square meter area and is typically installed between the kitchen and the living room, which it heats. Such a furnace’s design accommodates heating systems intended for the summer, off-season, and winter. Every instance has a distinct smoke-passing path. The structural components are arranged one above the other, and there is an oven next to the firebox and a niche above the cast-iron hob for storing berries and mushrooms. Additionally, there is enough room in the niche for raw clothing items to be dried.

"Swede" can be adjusted to meet the comfort standards of today. Firewall doors, in particular, can be added to the hob to stop the aroma of cooking food from spreading throughout the house. The size and volume of the room determine the dimensions of the combustion chamber, the hob, the drying niche, and the amount of brick used, which are all measured individually each time.

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Fireplace

Since a brick fireplace can be used as a heating source, its folding is done more for aesthetic than functional reasons. The fireplace contains a straight pipe that receives the majority of the thermal energy produced by burning firewood, and an open firebox where heating the kettle is only marginally feasible. Fireplaces have always been incredibly ineffective. Still, the firebox is blown beneath it and rests on a grate. Once the fuel burns out, the pipe typically has a backward damper that overlaps the air flow.

Apart from the aforementioned, there exist numerous other designs of furnaces that can be crafted using brick.

However, special knowledge and skills are needed to construct any of them, even the most basic ones. It’s not enough to figure out how much brick and other consumables you’ll need. To avoid smoke and poor performance from the stove, you simply need to be aware of all the subtleties and use them promptly. In order to prevent future stove operation issues, it is preferable to have a professional stove builder build the stove if the necessary knowledge and abilities are lacking.

Types and constructions of a brick furnace

Even in this highly technological age, people still use furnaces for cooking and home heating, despite the fact that they are a relatively old invention. Brick stoves are strong appliances with an average 30-year furnace service life.

Positive aspects of the furnaces include their high heat-accumulating capacity and ability to help prepare food using a wide variety of recipes from any kitchen in the world.

Options of furnaces

Instead of being replaced by new kinds of heating and cooking appliances, furnaces themselves have experienced substantial modifications in terms of both design and material composition.

A brick furnace’s design can vary greatly.

It should be mentioned that the size of the bath furnace and the Russian furnace for heating residential buildings differ greatly; the former is considerably larger than the latter.

Just the Russian furnace. over fifteen different structural iterations. It requires a significant investment in labor and materials to lay. This is the best option for taking a bath.

It will require between 2000 and 2500 bricks. Likewise, the solution requires a great deal. Such a construction will weigh several tons. Considering the weight of this design, the house’s matching foundation will also be necessary. A stove like that will take up a lot of room in the home. Masonry seams crack as a result of the bricks narrowing or expanding in response to temperature changes that occur inside the furnace and during furnace breaks.

Improved in the 1920s, the Russian stove is a heating furnace that warms the air from floor to ceiling, in contrast to traditional furnaces that heat the air to the level of a human belt. It is currently one of the most useful and affordable stove options available.

Russian furnace designs have evolved over time to include features like "warmth," "economy," and "Russian improved." The design of a Russian stove has thick walls. It would seem that big, thick walls should be able to store a lot of heat, which would then warm the rooms in the house. However, this is only partially true, as energy needs to be built up over an extended period of time, which calls for a lot of perishable materials.

The fuel walls are not outside the furnace in brick furnaces, the furnace chamber of which is concealed behind the chimneys. As a result, the interior components heat up significantly while the exterior components stay chilly and are unable to heat the space. When a valve is closed, all heat transfer to the space is stopped because the interior air ceases to move and turns into a heat-insulating material. The heat is released at the start of the subsequent firebox by the central component that has accumulated heat.

These stoves are typically found in dachas, but it’s important to remember that whether you live in the country permanently or temporarily, you will still experience both warm and cold seasons.

In contrast to the Russian stove, there are now more widely used small-sized brick furnace designs with brick walls that are half or even a quarter of the furnace’s size. With these stoves, less material is used and less labor is needed. They absorb heat much more quickly and release it into the space instantly, without letting it build up over time. These furnaces are far more efficient than large furnaces. The thin-walled furnace generates heat in 40 minutes, while a large heating device takes approximately two hours to reach the same temperature.

Furnaces come in a wide variety of configurations and options. Apart from the furnaces we take into account for cooking and heating in our homes, there is another category of furnaces known as heating baths. Think about a few furnaces that are primarily used for heating.

Swede. It’s meant to be used for cooking as well as home heating. It is made of brick, with refractory bricks frequently covering the furnace portion. There are vertical and horizontal types of chimneys. They are frequently mixed together. Smoke channels labeled "summer" and "winter" may exist independently. A cast-iron slab is available for use as a hob.

A tiny summer cottage would look great with the Drylander stove installed inside.

Dutch. designed exclusively to heat a home. She will look stunning at home, and big stoves won’t hurt her. made entirely of ceramic brick. consists of a network of chimneys that can have the combustion portion and the rate at which gases move within adjusted. Hollands typically have six channels for smoke. Other design options are possible in this situation.

There are options that combine a fireplace and a furnace:

Hearth. a layout that combines a furnace and fireplace into one. It has multiple rising and descending chimneys that merge into a single smoke channel that terminates in a pipe. These designs typically use a single, sizable door made of refractory glass.

Kamin cooking range. differs significantly from a fireplace. The design features a fully functional fireplace made of refractory brick with an open firebox. These stoves come in both hob-equipped and hob-less varieties. For maximum heat return, chimneys are frequently installed on the exterior of the fireplace.

Brick furnaces can also be cap or non-bell. The free gas movement principle governs how these stoves function. These kinds of stoves are available with or without a hob. Among these stoves is "Swede." These stoves usually have three to five vertical chimneys, with the chimney system located above the hob. You can store kitchen utensils in the space between the stove and the brick overlap, or you can use it to dry herbs or mushrooms.

Furnaces can have mixed, horizontal, or vertical smoke channels. The smoke channels should not be longer than eight meters because the smoke gases that flow through them cool. The unevenness and roughness of the brick, as well as the direction changes in the rifts and carpets, stop gases. The quality and speed of the gases’ passage through the channels and pipe are dependent on all of this because it influences the streaming turbulence of gases.

Furnace types in a section that is horizontal I’m round, square, rectangular, and triangular. The stoves are not all the same, and the way the smoke gases are removed involves flue gases that are connected to the wall-mounted chimney.

They vary in type and function, such as bread stoves, bath and stoves with a tep, and heating-welding with a shield.

You will have to redo the entire bath in addition to the bake if you don’t follow the steps carefully when building the furnace.

There are many different variations and unique construction techniques found in bath furnaces. One particular annoyance with stoves designed for a stove-to-liver bath is the need for continuous operation, first to the bathhouse and then to the dressing room. The low ceilings in the steam room make it difficult to lay the upper rows.

No furnace is complete without a pipe, the purpose of which, to take smoke and ensure the flow of air into the fuel, thereby maintaining the continuous burning of combustible materials. Due to the difference in the temperature of the outdoor air and smoke gases from the furnace, gases are movement. Hot gases rush up along the pipe channel, their place is immediately occupied by gases of smoke channels. Thus, an ongoing movement of smoke to the heading of the pipe from the fuel is undergoing. This phenomenon in the furnace is called traction. It can be very difficult to melt it due to weather conditions. So, they negatively affect the traction if the weather on the street is hot, and it is cool or high in the room with drizzling rain.

Turns and bumps of channels also create an obstacle to smoke gases. If smoke successfully overcomes all obstacles, then it is believed that it works correctly. If the resistance is equal or more than the traction, then the stove is fading. Traction should be in moderation, if there is a lot of it, this is also not good. With well -hot firewood, cover the smoke damper or valve, thereby reducing the craving. In chimneys of furnaces with a section of 3/4 from brick, a passage in a valve size of 1/4 brick is made. At the same time, the smoke does not fall into the room of the house. The larger the height of the pipe, the more the valve hides. With poor rod, if the stove begins to smoke due to poor weather, high humidity or with a high pipe, use the cleaning door for the winding.

Warm smoke during passage up pierces the road through heavy wet air and the craving increases. After that, closing the cleaning door, you can make firewood in the furnace. Excess traction can be heard by buzzing the furnace, in addition, smoke appears in the fuel with insufficient air intake. Loose seams in the masonry can reduce traction, from this they even crack and crumble, while there is an air leak in various places. This is a terrible pitch"s dream. So, the thickness of the seams between bricks does not exceed 5-7 mm, but at the same time it is necessary to take into account the geometry of bricks, with a large amount of irregularities on the brick, the seam is made more. The height of the pipes from the pitch to the pipe should be at least 5 meters. A high pipe is not a guarantor of good traction.

Components of elements

Doors are typically blown up, though they’re not always. The door must be opened in order to improve the air flow.

Ash chamber or simply ash, located at the bottom of the furnace. The bottom of the ashine is located at the second row level from the flooring of the room. A as a ash for accumulating ash waking up from a grate is intended. In the design of the ash, there is a door that is regulated by air supply to maintain pressure. The as a ashesive is combined with a furnace, which has large dimensions, it is designed for burning fuel. Fuel for firewood is built so that burning firewood settles on the grate. To make it possible, the walls of the furnace below are laid out with the slope towards the grate. Thanks to this device, fuel, burning and turning into ash, sprinkles through the grater into the Grand Siberian Collector. The Grind -collector should be regularly eliminated from the accumulated ash.

Although the firebox resembles a mine, it is shaped differently to accommodate various fuel types. Refractory bricks should be used for the internal cladding of the firebox. This is required to stop the ceramic brick inside the fuel from being destroyed. Furthermore, this lowers the furnace’s exterior temperature at the fuel level, resulting in even heating across the heating element’s surface.

Mandatory holes

There are three fuel-adapted holes in contemporary brick furnaces. The furnace door’s apertures are closed by a combustion door that is fastened to the climmers, which are steel stripes. intended to download flammable content. The grate is obstructing the hole, which is accessible from below in the pile. And from above, the third hole in Haillo. Smoke gases enter the chimney system through this hole.

You can save money on the treatment hole by using ornamental brick in its place.

Particles of ash and soot settling in smoke channels are cleaned with the help of food holes. They are called cleaning and they are closed by bricks inserted vertically or doors. In the upper part of the furnace, during its laying it, a structure from a continuous masonry is installed, called the "blossom". It consists of three rows of brick, each brick of which, overlaps the seam, the previous row. They are not advised to heat more than 90 degrees Celsius, this leads to the destruction of the quality of the masonry and significantly reduces the service life of such a furnace. During the operation of fireplaces, it is advised not to clog the firebox strongly with wood, this spoils the fireplace.

Stock headset

An important component of the furnace composed of brick is the stove set. It makes it possible to fully use the stove structure. The headset includes a door. It allows you to lay fuel in the furnace, through it you can quickly adjust burning coals or firewood. It is easy to open and close the door, allowing you to use firewood in the furnace economically, when the oxygen is admitted to it. It is extremely important for a person occupied by the stove’s height to close the stove door smoothly, it does not take out rude closes with the door clap, since a clay-sand solution on which brickwork is planted is rapidly crumble. For the controlled supply of oxygen to the furnace, a blowing door is required. A ash and soot are removed through it, which falls through the grate from the fuel grate, getting into the Grand Siberian Graduate.

Replacement of fittings

You can select precisely what will fit into the interior and match the size for your construction thanks to the variety of valves available.

These days, skilled stovers replace the cleaning doors with standard ceramic bricks placed on the ribs. This isn’t being done to save money; rather, it’s being done because the furnace is more tightly sealed than it would be if doors were used. This not only makes the furnace run more smoothly over time, but it also saves train material. It is simple to take these bricks out of the masonry and reinstall it after cleaning.

To adjust the thrust in the furnace, a valve is needed; it resembles a plate that moves easily within a metal frame.

This is but a small portion of the extensive range of furnace headsets available for diverse purposes.

Stove heating

The most economical method of bath heating used to be with brick furnaces; however, metal, electric, and even gas furnaces have now supplanted brick furnaces.

The furnace will produce either dry or wet steam and the appropriate air and water temperature if it is installed in compliance with all regulations.

Brick bath ovens are pricey these days, but if the bathhouse has one of these furnaces, then there’s a chance to experience the cozy, soft warmth of a bath.

When building a bathhouse with a brick stove, it is important to consider the large volume of the stove and the need for a sturdy foundation that can support the weight of the brick furnace for the bathhouse by several tons.

Not only will bathrooms recede, but so will laundry rooms, attached kitchens, and rest areas.

In contrast, brick from a metal furnace, for instance, can be folded to heat the bath to a variety of temperatures while preventing the furnace’s surfaces from heating up to dangerous levels.

In this era of gas, electronic, and convection furnaces, it appears that the furnace has outlived its useful life and should be disposed of, even though it is an old building. Yes, it takes up a lot of room in the room, but if it’s large enough, the furnace will provide much more enjoyable moments because stove heating is safer and more profitable for the environment.

DIY brick laying

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick furnace in the house

Let’s investigate why older heating devices are frequently better than their more advanced, modern counterparts. There are various causes:

• The furnace body is an excellent heat accumulator: thanks to this property, a brick furnace has to drown much less often than ordinary steel and even cast -iron. Some varieties hold heat up to 24 hours, while in the furnace of the metal stove, firewood should be tossed every 4-6 hours.
• The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick furnace more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal "substitutes". The fuel in it burns in optimal mode – with the greatest heat transfer and almost the complete decay of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The excess of heat formed in this case is absorbed by brick masonry and then gradually transmitted to the room.
• The outer surface of the furnace does not heat up to a high temperature.

As a result, the heat radiation this unit produces is softer than that produced by hot steel stoves. Furthermore, the airborne dust is burning out and releasing hazardous volatile substances when it comes into contact with hot metal (this is indicated by an unpleasant odor). They can’t poison you, of course, but they do damage your health.

• The brick furnace (this does not apply to the stone) when heated, emits steam, and when cooling again it absorbs it. This process is called the breath of the furnace. Thanks to him, the relative humidity of heated air always remains at a comfortable level – within 40-60%. When any other heating device not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room is reduced, that is, the air becomes dry.

You have to either heat it frequently while applying small amounts of fuel or run it in smell mode because there is nowhere to put too much heat. In the latter scenario, one fuel layer can work for longer periods of time before burning out and producing a lot of carbon monoxide and other environmentally hazardous compounds, such as T. n. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is simple to confirm this: black smoke continuously descends from a steel furnace’s chimney as fuel smolders, whereas visible dark smoke only appears during kindling in a brick furnace. This disadvantage prevents the metal solid-fuel heater from burning for an extended period of time (full-fledged stoves that mimic gas generation, not just gas generator stoves). However, they are highly costly, have a complicated design, and require a power source, which is necessary for a brick furnace to operate.

Which of the aforementioned can be in opposition? The brick stove in the cooled room takes a while to warm up. It is therefore advised that homeowners continue to purchase a second steel convector, which will force-warm the air while the furnace is heating.

It should be mentioned that the brick furnace is a substantial building that ought to be constructed alongside the house. And this should ideally be done by an experienced master, who is still to be found.

The use of brick furnaces

The range of applications for furnaces is unrestricted by their primary uses, which are cooking and heating. Other tasks to solve an aggregate like this are as follows:

1. Smoking meat and fish.
2. Metallomus (a gum oven).
3. Hardening and cementing metal parts (muffle stoves).
4. Firing ceramic products.
5. Heating blanks in a blacksmith.
6. Maintaining the required temperature and humidity regime in the bath.

However, it is not advised to build a brick furnace in homes, greenhouses, or livestock farms because the woman will have to breathe in foul vapors, which will cause damage quickly.

Varieties of structures

The above plan can be changed for different types of furnaces. The most popular choices are cap, Russian, Swedish, and Dutch.

Sequential channel is the name of this scheme. Although the stove’s design is adaptable to any room and its manufacturing is relatively simple, its maximum efficiency is only 40%.

Swedish unit

A highly effective heating-welding furnace variant.

A highly effective heating-welding furnace variant.Its plan is known as chamber. A camera is used as an oven, with hot smoke gases washing over its walls. The entire area, from the floor to the ceiling, is taken up by the channel convector, which is situated behind the stove. There are several benefits to this scheme:

• Efficiency at the level of 60%;
• In the oven on the side, you can install a heat exchanger for heating water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the oven of the furnace;
• Gaza convector enter the relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), therefore, for its construction, construction brick and ordinary cement-sand mortar can be used;
• The convector with such a form warms the room to the full height as evenly as possible;
• Near the Swedish furnace you can quickly warm up and dry if you open the oven door.

These kinds of stoves are challenging to make, need the foundation, and very high-quality materials.

Colling stove

Self-regulating scheme: smoke gases only pass through the cap after burning completely.

Over 70% efficiency can be achieved with such a mechanism, but the furnace’s manufacturing process is highly complex due to the high loads in the design. Moreover, it is limited to heating purposes.

Russian stove-lady

Similar to an English fireplace, the Russian stove’s plan is known as the running. There is no convector given for it.

Similar to an English fireplace, the Russian stove’s plan is known as the running. There is no convector given for it. The Russian furnace’s owner succeeds in the following ways:

• Efficiency reaches 80%;
• The structure has an interesting appearance;
• such dishes of our national cuisine become available for cooking that you can’t prepare otherwise in the Russian stove.

If the drawings are followed precisely, the Russian stove can be folded on its own. The structure can be destroyed by the smallest changes.

Overall furnace device, drawing

The furnace’s design is not very complicated.

Building blocks of a brick oven

The firebox, or camera, is located in the brick massif and has a door where the fuel burns (see positions 8 and 9 in the figure). There is a grate (pos. 7) in the bottom portion of it, which is used to hold fuel and allow air to enter the furnace. Another camera, known as an ashrian or blower, is located beneath the grates and is likewise secured with a door (pos. 4 and 6). The furnace receives air from the outside through this door, which also serves to remove any ash that falls into it.

Smoke gases enter Heilo (pos. 11), an incline channel that faces the front wall, through the aperture close to the posterior wall. Heilo finishes with a nozzle that narrows. A P-shaped channel known as a gas convector follows this (pos. 16).

The air traveling through a particular channel inside the furnace is heated by the walls of the gas convector. The air convector is the name given to this channel (pos. 14). At his output (pos. 18), a door has been installed; it is closed during the summer.

The components of the chimney are as follows:

• Certificate door (pos. 12): through it, they clean the smoke exhaust channel;
• Ground valve for tuning the combustion mode (pos. 15);
• Vyushka (pos. 17): It also represents a valve, through which after the kindling, when the entire carbon monoxide has already disappeared, the chimney is blocked in order to hold the heat.

Cutting refers to the thermal insulation around the chimney in the area where the roof and attic meet (pos. 23). The thickness of the walls of the chimney is greater where they overlap. Such a bruise is regarded as cutting and is referred to as a rubble (pos. 21).

The chimney bears another wound from the otter that crossed the roof (pos. 24). It keeps moisture from rain from getting into the space between the roof and the chimney.

• 1 and 2- the foundation with heat and waterproofing;
• 3 – legs or Shansits: for a stove with such elements, less brick is required, in addition, it has an additional heating surface from below;
• 5 – the beginning of a special air channel (stuffy), through which uniform heating of the room in height is achieved;
• 10 – combustion arch;
• 13 – an overlap of the air convector, called a re -flood or pass;
• 20 – blocking the furnace;
• 22 – attic ceiling.

Preparation for construction

Necessary materials, selection

The following types of bricks are used to build furnaces:

1. Construction ceramic brick (red). They are laid out the lowest rows – the so -called suboperate part (the diagram is indicated by oblique hatching), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
2. Coramic brick. Also red, but compared to the construction it has higher quality (brand – M150) and withstands higher temperatures – up to 800 degrees. Outwardly, they can be distinguished in size: the dimensions of the stove – 230x114x40 (65) mm, while in construction – 250x125x65 mm. The stove brick is laid out a fried (combustion) part of the furnace, in the diagram it is indicated by hatching in the cell.
3. Shamotic brick. This material is covered from the inside. He withstands temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but this is not limited to this. Shamot -bark brick combines high heat capacity (is a very “capacious” heat accumulator) and equally high thermal conductivity.

Note: You cannot use the front brick in this situation.

Chamotis brick alone cannot be used to lay out the fried portion because of its high thermal conductivity; the oven will overheat and rapidly cool from the intense heat. Consequently, stove bricks must be laid out on the exterior in at least half of a brick.

The stove and the chamotis brick are the same size. It is often advised to judge a product’s quality based on the color’s depth, however this approach is only appropriate for goods whose clay was extracted from a single location. When comparing chamotomed clay from various deposits, color does not always indicate an objective property—dark material could easily pass for light yellow.

Shells and other unnecessary inclusions shouldn’t be visible to the naked eye on the brick’s surface.

A finer-grained structure and the absence of visually discernible pores and extraneous particles are more trustworthy indicators of quality (a high-quality sample is shown on the left in the figure). A good chamotum brick should sound clear and sonorous when tapped, and it should break into big pieces when it falls from a certain height. Poor tapping will produce deafening sounds and shatter into numerous tiny pieces when it falls.

Additionally, the following solutions are employed in the furnace’s construction:

1. Cement-sand: those parts of the furnace that consist of ordinary construction bricks are placed on a regular cement-sand solution.
2. High quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of mountain sand and Portland cement of the M400 brand and higher, is used if an irregular furnace firebox is supposed to. The fact is that the dried clay solution with insufficient heating can be nourished by moisture and again mesh. That"s why in areas with a temperature below 200–250 degrees (on the diagram-a slanting bar with filling) instead of clay, a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on mountain sand is used. We emphasize that it should be done in this way only if the furnace during the cold is often idle.
3. Clay solution. For this solution, mountain sand is also needed. For him, the absence of organic residues is characteristic, due to which the seams would quickly be painted. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: excellent quality solutions are obtained on the basis of sand from ground ceramic or chamotis brick.
4. High -quality clay costs more than sand, so its amount in the solution tends to minimize.

With the use of sand from ground brick, they calculate the minimum amount of this material that is needed by doing the following:

• The clay is soaked during the day, then it is mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or dense dough;
• Having divided the clay into portions, prepare 5 solutions: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (in volume);
• After a 4-hour drying, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10-15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder must be wrapped around a blank with a diameter of 50 mm.

We examine the outcome: any task can benefit from a solution without cracks or with tiny cracks in the very surface layer; The solution is deemed appropriate for masonry with a maximum temperature of 300 degrees when the cracks are 1-2 mm deep; at deeper depths, the solution is deemed non-uniform.

Tool

Apart from the typical set of instruments used by mantarers, which consists of:

• trowel;
• hammer hammer;
• cutting for seams;
• shovel for the solution.

Before work begins, one needs to assemble this set of tools.

A racer-carrier is necessary for the liver. It features a 5×5 cm cross section, seams sewn, and markings that indicate the locations of individual rows. Installed at the fourth order’s corners, it will be simple to guarantee the masonry’s verticality and the uniformity of the seam widths between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heating device

Although the furnace calculation method is highly intricate and requires a great deal of experience, there is a suggested and simpler alternative. Kuznetsov, IN. Assuming that the house has adequate insulation outside, he presents a fairly accurate result. The following heat transfer values are accepted for a 1 m 2 area of the furnace’s surface:

• Under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
• In severe frosts, when the stove is drowned especially intensively (not more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Consequently, a 2.5 m high stove with 1.5 x 1.5 m plan dimensions and a 17.5 m 2 surface area will generate 8.5 kW of heat in regular mode and 13.3 kW in intensive mode. This performance will be sufficient for an 80–100 m 2 house.

Even though topies are extremely complex, they are no longer necessary. When designing and building a furnace at home, it is preferable to buy a ready-made furnace from a store since it is already built according to all the regulations and will be less expensive.

The following factors need to be considered when selecting a furnace:

1. The firebox in size and the location of the fasteners should correspond to the type of brick used.
2. For a furnace that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded furnace made of sheet steel; For constant use, you need to buy only cast cast -iron furnace.
3. The depth of the ash shaft (lower narrowing of the furnace) should be a third of the height of the combustion chamber, if most of the time the stove is drowning with carbon or peat, and one fifth – if the main one is wood fuel or pellets.

Depending on the furnace’s power, the section of chimneys that satisfy the standard requirements (direct vertical move, head over grate height: 4 to 12 m) are chosen in accordance with the suggestions listed in SNiP:

• with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140×140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140×200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140×270 mm;
• from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200×200 mm;
• from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200×270 mm.

Since the furnace’s power cannot be precisely calculated, there are occasions when the unit’s performance and the approved section of the chimney diverge, causing the furnace to start smoking. In this instance, raising the chimney’s height by 0.25 to 0.5 meters is sufficient.

Although empirical formulas have been developed to calculate the number of bricks, there is a 15% error in their results. Counting the bricks in the order is the only way to manually perform an accurate calculation, and it will only take an hour or so. Using one of the computer programs designed for this purpose to simulate a furnace is a more contemporary option. The system will generate a specification that includes the precise quantity of whole bricks along with their dimensions, shapes, and pr.

Choosing a place, scheme

The layout of the house’s rooms and its overall size determine how the furnace is installed. Here’s a potential design for a modest summer home:

Effective design for a summer home

Such a stove will heat the entire building during the winter, and it can be used to cook comfortably in the summer with an open window.

The oven can be positioned in a large home with permanent residents in the following ways:

This kind of design work is appropriate for a capital house.

This version of the fireplace stove is fitted in the living room and has a cast iron furnace that was purchased, complete with a heat-resistant glass door.

And in an economy class home, a brick furnace can be installed in this manner:

The finest choice for the house in the economy class

You should consider the following factors when deciding where to put the furnace:

1. The design, numbering more than 500 bricks, should have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
2. The chimney should not come into contact with the beams of the attic ceiling and roof rafters. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that in the area of intersection of the attic floor it has a bruise called a rubble.
3. The minimum distance from the pipe to the skate of the roof is 1.5 m.

The first rule has some exceptions:

1. A hob with a low and wide body equipped with a heating shield can be installed without a foundation if the floor is able to withstand a load of at least 250 kg/ m 2 .
2. In a house with a tape sectional foundation, an oven with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be built at the intersection of the foundations of the internal walls (including T-shaped). At the same time, the minimum distance from the stove foundation to the tapes of the building of the building is 1.2 m.
3. It is allowed to erect a small Russian furnace on the basis of a wooden beam with a cross section of 150×150 mm (t. n. Opechee), based on the ground or boot masonry of the foundation of the building.

The foundation must be installed, heat must be laid, and waterproofing must be done. You can if the furnace has a strip foundation built underneath it and has channits installed. A monolithic reinforced concrete slab serves as the foundation for a standard stove (sans Shantsev). The foundation should extend at least 50 mm on each side to accommodate the furnace’s outlines.

The following is the typing order for the insulating "pie":

• On the foundation in 2 or 3 layers, roofing material is laid;
• Basalt cardboard with a thickness of 4-6 mm or the same sheet of asbestos is laid on top;
• Then put a sheet of roofing iron;
• It remains to lay the last layer – saturated with a highly diluted pantry with a basalt cardboard or felt.

Only after the top layer has sunk to the roofing gland can masonry commence.

Prior to beginning the masonry work on the floor in front of the future furnace, a fireproof coating must be constructed. Typically, this consists of a roof iron sheet laid over an asbestos or basalt cardboard lining. The first row of bricks presses against one edge of the sheet, while the remaining edges bend and are nailed to the ground. Such a coating should have a front edge that is at least 300 mm away from the furnace and side edges that extend 150 mm beyond the furnace’s perimeter on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Masonry rules in accordance with the order

The stove is arranged as per the prescribed order (see rice.).

Masonry plan for stoves

Observe these guidelines:

1. The seams between the bricks in the vault of the firebox and the sub -heating part can have a width of up to 13 mm, in other cases – 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: to the larger way – to a width of 5 mm, in a smaller – up to 2 mm.
2. The ligation of the seams between ceramic and chamotis masonry cannot be done – these materials are very different in thermal expansion. For the same reason, seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, give the maximum thickness (5 mm).
3. The masonry must be carried out with the ligation of the seams, that is, each seam must overlap the neighboring brick at least a quarter of it (brick) length.
4. The layout of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that the verticality does not have to be checked each time, along the corners of the furnace, strictly vertically, the cords are pulled (for this you need to score nails into the ceiling and in the seams between the bricks) and are subsequently oriented along them.
5. Doors and damper are fixed in the masonry by means of knitting wire laid in the seams, or with the help of Klyammers made from a 25×2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the door of the firebox (especially its upper part), oven and frying shutters: here the wire will quickly burn out.

The internal portion of the chimney stays the same, only the exterior size grows in the jet and otter. Brick plates are added to the masonry to gradually increase the thickness of the walls. Plastering is required for the chimney’s interior surface.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The subcutaneous portion is where the furnace’s body is constructed.

1. In the absence of sufficient experience, the ranks should first be laid out without solution and aligned well, and only then transfer the row to the solution. Also, novice masters are recommended to lay out the suboperate part of the furnace in the formwork.

After laying the 3rd row, a blowing door is installed on it.

It should be set in terms of level. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with asbestos cord.

Then spread the fried part, for which they use stove and chamotis brick. Masonry of the heat and installation of grates

Before laying, the blocks are cleaned with a dust brush. Ceramic brick needs to be moistened, lowering into a container of water, then shake. Wetting chamotomed brick is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stovers apply the solution with their hands, since the cell is not easy to lay a thin layer with a thickness of 3 mm. The brick should be immediately put correctly, without correcting or tiring. If this could not be done the first time, the operation needs to be repeated, having previously removed the solution smeared on a brick – it cannot be used already.

After laying a few more rows, the ash chamber is blocked by a grate with a grate. It should lie on chamotis bricks in which the corresponding grooves are cut.

Set the furnace door – in the same order in which the door was placed. Installation of a furnace door

Lay out the rows of the furnace part. If a low slab is being built, then a number of bricks above the top door must be slightly moved back so that they are not overturned by a heavy cast -iron canvas when it was opened.

The furnace chamber is overlapped with a hob or arch (in purely heating furnaces). The slab on the solution due to a significant difference in thermal expansion between cast iron and clay cannot be laid-under it you need to put an asbestos cord under it. Installation of a hob

Then they continue the laying of the furnace according to the order, drawing up a gas -convector system. In order for the soot to gather at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it is easily removed, the height of the lower inter –hanname transitions (peremits) should be 30-50% more than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes must be rounded.

After constructing the furnace’s body, they start constructing the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

Two varieties of arches exist:

• Flat: sets of this type are placed from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of circle, a flat tray is used. The flat vault has one feature: it should be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will sprinkle very soon. Therefore, even stovers with sufficient experience are built by this part of the furnace using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
• semicircular (arched).

The latter are arranged using a template, commonly known as a circle:

1. Begin with the installation on the solution of the extreme support blocks – the bloodsters, which are previously cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size.
2. After the solution dries, the installed circle is installed and the wings of the arch are laid out.
3. Castle stones are driven with a log or wooden hammer, after applying a thick layer of solution to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the solution is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was performed without violations, this process will pass evenly throughout the vault.

Creation of an arch that is semicircular

Circles should only be erased once the solution has dried completely.

In the semicircular vault, the angle formed by the axes of adjacent bricks shouldn’t be greater than 17 degrees. The seam between blocks of standard sizes should be 2 mm wide on the inside (as seen from the furnace’s side) and 13 mm wide on the outside.

Rules and nuances of operation

The stove needs to be kept in good working order to be economical. A mere 2 mm fracture in the valve will result in a 10% loss of heat because of the uncontrolled airflow through it.

Additionally, you must correctly drown the stove. 15% to 20% of the heat can fly into the pipe with a blower that is strongly open, and 40% of the heat can fly into the pipe if the furnace door is open while the fuel is burning.

It must be dry firewood that the stove is smothering. They must be harvested beforehand in order to accomplish this. In addition to producing less heat due to their high moisture content, raw firewood causes a significant amount of acid condensate to form in the chimney, severely damaging the brick walls.

The logs must all be the same thickness—roughly 8 to 10 cm—in order to heat up uniformly.

Firewood is arranged in cages or rows with a 10-millimeter space between each one. A minimum of 20 mm should separate the top of the fuel bookmark from the furnace; it is preferable if the firebox is filled to two thirds.

The beam, paper, etc. produce the majority of the fuel’s painting. It is not permitted to use gasoline, acetone, or kerosene.

In order to prevent heat loss through the chimney, you must block the bit after the kind of kind.

During the kindling process, you must navigate the flame’s color to establish traction. The fire should be yellow when it is burning at the ideal rate; if it is white, too much air is being supplied, and a large portion of the heat is being expelled through the chimney. When there is insufficient air, the fuel does not burn all the way through and a lot of hazardous materials are released into the atmosphere, giving the color red.

Cleaning (in t.h. from soot)

Typically, the furnace is cleaned and repaired in the summer, and the chimney needs to be cleaned two or three times during the winter. two to three times. Soot is a great heat insulator, and too much of it will make the oven less efficient.

The ash in front of each firebox needs to be removed from the grate.

Three components of the furnace are in charge of controlling its traction: a bit, a valve, and a blower door. Thus, it is necessary to continuously check on the condition of these devices. Should there be any wear or malfunctions, replacement work needs to be done right away.

Traditional Brick Furnace	Modern Brick Furnace
Uses bricks and mortar for construction	Incorporates high-efficiency insulation materials

Choosing to build a brick furnace for your home’s heating needs can improve its efficiency and comfort. Ensuring optimal performance and safety is contingent upon the furnace’s design. You can design a cost-effective and environmentally friendly heating system that satisfies your needs by comprehending the fundamentals of brick furnace design.

Making sure there is enough insulation is one of the main factors in brick furnace design. Insulation aids in the furnace’s ability to hold onto heat, which improves performance. You can minimize heat loss and lower energy consumption, which will ultimately result in lower heating costs, by using high-quality insulation materials and making sure they are installed correctly.

The design and dimensions of the furnace should be taken into account in addition to insulation. A well-thought-out brick furnace should be sized to suit your home’s heating requirements and make maintenance and operation simple. Because effective combustion and heat distribution depend on proper airflow within the furnace, vent and duct placement must be done with great care.

The safety of the construction of a brick furnace must come first. To stop the accumulation of dangerous gases, this entails utilizing fire-resistant materials, setting up carbon monoxide detectors, and making sure there is enough ventilation. Finding and fixing any possible safety risks in the furnace also depends on routine maintenance and inspection.

All things considered, a well-built brick furnace can give your house consistent, long-lasting heat. You can have the coziness and warmth of a conventional heating system with less energy use and less of an impact on the environment by designing with the right insulation, sizing, and safety features.