Brick “Dutch” stove: device, order, do -it -yourself masonry, repair

A brick "Dutch" stove can make all the difference in keeping your house warm and comfortable. Many homeowners choose this conventional heating appliance because it effectively distributes heat throughout the room and gives your space a touch of rustic charm.

However, what is a brick "Dutch" stove and how is it operated? In essence, it’s a kind of masonry stove that makes use of bricks’ ability to retain heat to produce a steady, long-lasting source of warmth. In contrast to traditional fireplaces, which lose a significant amount of heat through the chimney, a Dutch stove is made to retain and distribute heat as much as possible.

Although building a brick "Dutch" stove yourself may seem like a difficult undertaking, it is totally doable with the correct advice and skills. There are several steps in the construction process, from obtaining the required supplies to positioning the bricks in the right pattern. But, the outcome will be well worth the work because you’ll have affordable and effective heating for many years to come.

Of course, to ensure peak performance, a brick "Dutch" stove may need periodic maintenance and repairs, just like any other appliance. Your stove will last longer and function more efficiently if you know how to handle common problems, from small touch-ups to larger renovations. Whether it’s fixing a cracked mortar joint or replacing a brick that has been damaged, being proactive can stop issues from getting worse.

Brick "Dutch" stove device	Learn about the components and workings of a brick "Dutch" stove.
Ordering materials	Guidance on what materials you"ll need and where to get them for building your brick "Dutch" stove.
DIY masonry	Step-by-step instructions on how to build your own brick "Dutch" stove.
Repair	Tips and tricks for repairing any issues that may arise with your brick "Dutch" stove.

Story

It is a well-kept mystery how the Dutch stove—so named because it was this kind of stove that originated in Russia—came to be. The stove industry continued to grow and expand in all northern nations, including the Netherlands, as a result of gaining the backlog from the Byzantine and Roman empires.

Additionally, furnace combustion has been known since antiquity, as this was the initial method of operation for foci, fireplaces, and the hot smoke gases used in ancient Roman baths to heat the rooms. Moreover, the use of colorful tiles to decorate fireplaces was not new; it dates back to the 18th and 19th centuries.

For some reason, Peter I called it a "Swedish stove" when he introduced the idea of the "Dutch," or a heating stove with a fifth and vertical channels, to the Russian and later Moscow empires.

This occurred as a result of the Russian chicken stoves, which were the primary source of heating in the majority of the Moscow kingdom’s homes, being "drowned in black," or having smoke escape through an open door or a hole in the ceiling.

Russia’s upper light was gradually penetrated by the new oven, but by the mid-1800s, the majority of peasant huts were heating "in the white," or by drawing heat from the chimney and heating shield.

The traditional Russian stove, even with its chimney, was already seen as a relic of a bygone era by the early 1900s. It was replaced by several, smaller, but no less functional versions of the "Dutch furnace."

The Dutchk in the pauper’s huts had no jewelry at all; instead, it was whitewashed with fucked lime and covered in a clay solution. It became a work of art when the estates’ owners added tile decorations to it. At this point, the Dutchwoman modification—better known today as the “Swede”—with a cast-iron slab had gained a lot of popularity.

This is not shocking at all; a stove with this level of functionality took the place of the conventional Russian furnace used for food preparation.

Since Northern Holland is very similar to southern St. Petersburg, it is assumed that the original Dutch furnace was a fireplace. As a result, an efficient stove was not needed there. Furthermore, the Russians have already modernized the furnace that Peter I brought from Holland with vertical channels.

However, as things actually were, only one thing is known for sure: Peter’s heating devices were unique in that they were decorated with blue and blue tiles. An illustration of this type of Dutch brick furnace design can be found in the house shown in the picture below.

There are numerous names for the Dutch stove in Russia that in some way surpass the term "Holland." Here are a few of them:

• golanka;
• Dutchman;
• Half -haired.

It’s sometimes referred to as "rough" or "rude," just like any other tall oven set into the wall. Stoves with gols and metal stoves, which are commonly referred to as "Dutch," are what today’s recognized stove masters call them.

Distinctive features

Even though the Dutch furnace comes in a variety of forms, distinctive characteristics The customary "Russian Dutch" person is:

• Subanary fireplace;
• vertical channels of the chimney;
• finishing with tiles or a metal casing;
• lack of a hob;
• The absence of a separate heating shield (heat storages the body of the furnace).

However, there is currently no precise definition of what constitutes a "Dutch" furnace and what is not. Because some companies selling heating devices under this name provide horizontal or capacious heating shields, others introduce secondary air to the firebox, altering its operation entirely, and still others just whiten the completed structure.

There are even Dutch stoves with bread cameras, which were not possible during Peter I’s reign because at that time, cooking was done with:

• cast iron plate;
• an increased size of a grade (traditional Russian stoves);
• The oven is “in white”, that is, separated from smoke gases by either brick or metal;
• hearth.

As a result, we suggest looking at the aforementioned characteristics as unique to the Dutch furnace.

Did all the stoves of the XVII – XVIII century in Russia were Dutch

The vertical channels, which maintain the same width and thickness throughout the height, are a defining characteristic of authentic "Dutch" products. Nonetheless, you can notice a progressive decrease in width and thickness as height increases in numerous images of those stoves from that era that have been posted in different palaces.

This suggests that there are numerous horizontal channels; in other words, although the heating device on the main feature does not match the "Dutch," some of them do share the same name due to their tile-decorated design.

Although it is much simpler to calculate and implement, stoves with vertical channels are more effective than those with undeveloped horizontal channels, which were unique to Dutch furnaces from the 18th century (the system was fully developed at the start of the 20th century). Furthermore, even though Peter I brought furnaces from Holland, he referred to them as Swedish (German). As a result, the term "Dutch furnace" is somewhat ambiguous and refers more to the external design than the working principle.

Advantages and disadvantages

The "Dutch" represented the height of stove technology at the time of its introduction, but over the intervening centuries, this sector has advanced significantly. We will compare the individual parts of different types of Dutch furnaces because there isn’t a single, widely recognized standard for them.

Topka

The fifth method is among the least effective because it is very challenging to mix air and pyrolysis gases. As a result, smoke and flame temperature are higher in the fireplace than in the golsnikova. Providing heated secondary air over the combustion zone can boost efficiency, but this significantly complicates the heating device’s design.

Providing primary air through the door with the lower and upper gates, like DTG-8BS "Kizhi-2," is a little less efficient. The air and pyrolysis gases are mixed more thoroughly in the firebox with this type of door, but even a basic gallop fuel chamber works far better.

Furthermore, the firebox’s scales are only appropriate for burning firewood; they cannot be used to burn coal because grates are required to allow air to pass through the firebox in order to burn coal. Because the temperature of the output smoke is significantly lower than that of the gallop furnit, using a bread chamber with it is likewise not possible.

Vertical chimney channels

Vertical channels have one major drawback over horizontal channels and caps: their resistance to the flow of smoke gases is significantly higher, and the warming of the channel is dependent on its orientation with respect to the furnace.

As a result, the latter channel heats up minimally while the first channel always heats up as much as possible. Furthermore, a stove of this kind is challenging to melt after the summer because the smoke rising from the furnace will need to force air through multiple chilly channels.

Although the effectiveness of such a stove is far higher than that of a traditional Dutch furnace, it is no longer a "Dutch" stove because the channels have been turned into a cap with cuts to reduce the resistance to the movement of smoke.

External finish

Regardless of the kind of external finish (coating or pasting with tiles), the Dutch furnace greatly outperforms analogs without trim in terms of dependability because masonry cracks occasionally occur even in the absence of rehearsals. These stove cracks allow air to seep in, decreasing the stove’s useful action (efficiency). As a result, combustion products, such as highly explosive and toxic carbon monoxide, enter the room.

If an inexperienced stove installer installs the stove or if you must use a brick with linear dimensions that differ by more than 1-2 mm, the finish significantly lessens the impact of cracks on the heating device’s operation.

Evolution

The Dutchwoman represented the height of stove technology at the time of its introduction, but as time went on, more sophisticated technological advancements increased (efficiency) and consequently decreased heating expenses. The invention of the cast-iron hob and gallop was facilitated by the advancement of metallurgy.

Created in the middle of the 19th century by Lomonosov New types of chimneys with less resistance to gases have emerged as a result of the hydraulic theory of the movement of gases and flame in the furnace. Furnaces with separate heating shields started to appear, making it possible for one appliance to efficiently heat multiple nearby rooms.

New types of furnaces emerged as a result of this evolution, but since the term "Dutch" was known to both wealthy and peasant people, heating devices that were folded in accordance with new principles were still referred to as Dutch stoves.

This custom was upheld until the turn of the 20th century, when a new kind of stove known as "Swedes" emerged. Although they were not very efficient, these stoves were actually quite common. Ultimately, they operated using any kind of solid fuel and were able to cook as well as heat a small home.

Round Dutch stoves are sold separately; Johann Termark’s 1820 model is the most intriguing. The air leakage and gas release into the room were prevented by the metal casing, but the casing also complicated the design of the heating device. However, a room that is between 20 and 40 m 2 can be warmed effectively by this design.

How to fold a home stove with your own hands?

In order to install your own stove and get as close to the "Dutchmen" that Peter I brought to Russia, you should first gather information from different forums where furnace masters share their experiences.

The "Dutch" are still well-liked despite their antiquated design because of their ease of use; even someone with no prior experience installing furnaces but familiarity with working with bricks can fold one up.

Make sure to view the video reports from individuals who have already installed these stoves; a wealth of helpful information can be found there. Examine the predictions of different models. The drawings collected in the SketHup program or its equivalents are the most fascinating since they are large-scale, allowing you to view not just a single row but the entire array as a whole.

Links to forums

The following are links to the most fascinating forums where people discuss different aspects of Dutch furnaces:

1. www.ru/Threads.
2. forum.stovemaster.ru.
3. Stroiteli.Info.
4. www.NN.ru.
5. Santechniki.Com.
6. www.NN.ru/comunity.

Working with guns

Once you’ve determined the general design of the furnace you require, move forward with placing the order. You can now alter anything. For instance, you can cut the gallop into the base furnace and switch the sequential vertical channels 5–7 to parallel operation. You can create caps with cuts in place of inefficient channel chimneys, which will lessen the obstruction to the smoke’s multiple passageways.

The following articles that are available on our website will assist you in this work:

1. DIY Kuznetsov bake.
2. Two -colp furnaces.
3. Stoves with a lounger.
4. Stoves with a breadcase.
5. "Swede".

Additionally, you will discover in this article a feature that has made a good Dutch brick furnace ideal for heating a warm 25–40 m 2 home. The fuel in the fifth furnace lacks a lining because of its lower combustion temperature than that of the golus, but rolling windows even out the temperature differential between the channel and the fuel, resulting in more even heating.

The choice of material

Determine how many bricks and furnace devices you’ll need if you choose to build a "Dutch" and have already chosen your order.

The brick calculations in the sketch can be done manually, piecemeal, or all at once for the entire structure. Recall that the ideal masonry seam thickness is 3-5 mm, meaning that brick differences shouldn’t be greater than half of this amount (1.5–3 mm). If the discrepancy is greater than the normal seam, the stove will start to break much sooner because the pantries and bricks will expand at different temperatures.

Furthermore, consider the brick’s side-to-side ratio. This is because it’s not always necessary to place the brick on the bed (the side with the greatest length and width), but rather on a spoof (the side with the least amount of width and maximum length), or even on a poke (the end). One layer of brick placed on the spoiler should be pledged to be followed by two layers of stone placed on the bed and four rows deep on a dump.

Placement

One benefit of the "Dutch" furnace is that it heats up to the bottom, which means that, compared to furnaces with lower heating, its heat transfer is marginally higher with the same surface area. The best place for this kind of heater is in the wall between two adjacent rooms; if the oven is large enough—at least 4 by 4 bricks in length and width—it can even heat three or four well-insulated rooms.

A modified Dutch stove can be used for heating a steam room, dressing room, and bath if it is attached to such a design. Unfortunately, the vertical channel chimney design makes it difficult to heat water; as a result, you must install a separate boiler for washing. A small kitchen will benefit greatly from the stove’s three vertical channels, especially if you build a gallop furnace and insert an oven or bread chamber into it.

You can connect an additional heating shield to a "Dutch" furnace by increasing its size with grates inserted and decreasing the number of channels while simultaneously increasing their cross-section. This will result in a sharp increase in the furnace’s heat transfer. The main array will heat a few small rooms in this configuration, and the heating shield, measuring 2 by 2 meters, will heat a few nearby rooms with an area of 15 to 30 square meters. This configuration will be most efficient in the center of the house.

Gollanders from brick stoves

We draw your attention to the Gollanders stove, which was assembled by the article’s author based on firsthand knowledge.

Take note! Although the website offers rough models that illustrate the basic idea of operation, the stove actually needs to be customized for a given set of circumstances.

The brick "Dutch" stove is a traditional and effective option for heating and insulating your home. This article explores its design, the building process, and the potential for a do-it-yourself method. We examine the ins and outs of this conventional heating solution, covering everything from comprehending its parts to providing step-by-step instructions on how to construct it yourself. We also discuss common repair problems and maintenance advice for this comfortable addition to your home. Whether you’re looking for a do-it-yourself project or want to improve the warmth in your home, this article provides useful information about brick "Dutch" stoves.

How much is the stove from the master?

No matter what kind, you can get a gorgeous stove for your house or a brick cottage for about the same price as a car, if you factor in the amount of masonry work and the number of bricks required. One to one and a half million rubles is needed for the entire cycle of work, which includes building a foundation and raising a chimney in addition to materials. If a village called "Golanka" is required, the cost of building it—excluding the cost of materials—will range from 30 to 150 thousand rubles, depending on the extent of the work and the stove’s specifications.

Repair and cleaning

Firewood grows soot much more quickly than its gallopal equivalents due to their low fire combustion temperature, so it is preferable to clean them twice during the heating season. In addition, channels are required for the smoke pipe and the furnace’s external channels.

Even if the furnace is only a rustic gola on a clay solution, it will require repair at least once every 50–100 years if it is appropriately complicated and drowned (once or twice a day without rehearsal).

It is more difficult to repair a stove that has tile lining since you have to take the tiles off, patch the seams, and then replace the tiles. However, if the smoke started to seep through the cladding, all of the seams will need to be repaired, which is a significantly more challenging task than simply moving it again. Furthermore, a "Dutch" leak of this kind only yields several powerful overflows.

If there are isolated cracks on the clay-coated structure’s surface, it is sufficient to split the coating and the fractured seam before filling everything in with a fresh solution and applying whitewash.

An incorrect installation or excessive reinforcing causes the fuel door to protrude. The procedure in this instance involves removing the door and its fasteners, thoroughly cleaning the seams from the solution between the corresponding bricks, and then regluing the door and caulking the seams with a fresh solution.

Video

This video explains the Dutchki stove’s mechanism and operation for a brick house without a slab, including the chimney. It also provides instructions on how to follow the order and drawings for doing your own handmasonry:

This video demonstrates how to fold a square brick heater for a do-it-yourself project and estimates the quantity of bricks needed. It also provides an image of the assembled stove.

A video demonstrating the process of repairing and cleaning an old furnace:

For homeowners who want to improve the aesthetic appeal and heating efficiency of their homes, building a brick "Dutch" stove can be a satisfying project. This kind of stove provides useful functionality as well as a lovely focal point for any space thanks to its classic design and good heat retention qualities.

Knowing the fundamental design and operation of a brick "Dutch" stove is crucial if you plan to build one. Gaining an understanding of the various parts and how they function together to generate and disperse heat will help you approach the construction process with greater assurance.

Although it is possible to hire a professional mason, many homeowners decide to take on the task of building their own brick "Dutch" stove. DIY masonry can be a rewarding and economical project with the correct supplies, careful planning, and attention to detail. To guarantee a secure and useful outcome, it is essential to abide by local construction codes and safety procedures.

Brick "Dutch" stoves may occasionally need repairs and maintenance to keep them functioning properly, even with proper construction. Timely repairs can extend the stove’s lifespan and avert potential safety hazards. These repairs can range from replacing damaged bricks to addressing problems with the stove’s chimney or flue. Maintaining optimal performance also requires routine cleaning and inspections.

In conclusion, for homeowners looking to enhance the ambience and heating efficiency of their home, building and maintaining a brick "Dutch" stove can be a wise investment. To reap the benefits of your stove for many years to come, it’s important to understand its construction, operation, and maintenance requirements, whether you decide to take on a DIY masonry project or hire professionals.

Video on the topic

Do -it -yourself masonry .Budget brick furnace for 4 tons.rub.

Oven repair with the oven – slowly in 5 days.

Futting of the stove fuel!!!!???? They asked for you))))))

Dutch stove. It is not difficult to disassemble.