The foundation plays a critical role in a house’s stability and longevity. Furthermore, the brick base for a strip foundation is a dependable option when it comes to foundations. It offers the option to build a basement, adding useful space to the house, in addition to offering strong support for the structure above. For those who are keen to take on this project themselves, we will provide a step-by-step guide on how to build a brick base for a strip foundation in this article.
The process of constructing a brick base for a strip foundation requires meticulous preparation and work. The foundation is the structural core of the entire building, supporting the weight of the house and securely lowering it to the ground below. Homeowners can guarantee a strong, long-lasting foundation that can endure weather variations and time by choosing a brick base.
Among the main benefits of adding a brick base to a strip foundation is the ability to build a basement. In regions where severe weather is common, basements can also be used as storm shelters in addition to providing extra living space and storage options. Homeowners can take on the challenge of building their own brick base by following a step-by-step instruction guide, which will allow them to customize their home to fit their needs and tastes.
The process of building a brick base for a strip foundation calls for close attention to detail and adherence to accepted building practices. Even though it could seem overwhelming, particularly to individuals with no prior construction experience, it can be a worthwhile and doable project with the correct direction and strategy. In order to help homeowners successfully finish their brick base project, we’ll break down the procedure into manageable steps in the following sections and offer clear instructions and helpful hints.
Topic | Brick base for strip foundation |
Content | Guide to building a basement with bricks |
Overview | Steps for DIY brick basement construction |
Choosing a brick base for a strip foundation provides stability and longevity when building a solid foundation for your house. This article gives homeowners the confidence to take on the task of building a brick base for a strip foundation by providing a step-by-step guide. This guide covers everything you need to know, from comprehending the fundamentals of basement construction to providing precise instructions for laying bricks. You’ll discover how to build a strong foundation for your home, guaranteeing longevity and peace of mind for years to come, with concise explanations and understandable language.
- DIY brick masonry: tools, order and features
- Varieties of basements
- Step -by -step instructions for the masonry of the basement
- Varieties of the basement
- Recommendations for choosing a brick for a basement
- Frost resistance
- Strength
- Base
- Features of brickwork of the basement
- Brick basement technology
- Preparation of the necessary materials
- Brick masonry technology
- Video on the topic: how to put a brick correctly
- Operation conditions determine the approach
- Clinker brick
- Requirements
- Characteristics of the main types of material
- Brick silicate
- Analogs from clay
- Clinker material
- Video on the topic
- Preparation and masonry of the basement of a two -story cottage.
- Basement masonry in 1.5 brick
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- Basol under zero brick, black concrete floor.
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DIY brick masonry: tools, order and features
Now, how do you lay a brick by hand? You need to discuss the plan of action as well as some specific technical details. You have an idea.
An approximate list of bricklaying tools
Let’s begin with the instrument. We’ll require:
- Kalms of the Mason – apply and level the solution into bricks;
- concrete mixer or container for kneading solution;
- solid shovel – for kneading and periodic mixing;
- two or three buckets for the solution;
- plumbing- check the verticality of walls and angles,
- Construction level – to check the horizontal masonry of a row;
- patching cord-for picking out rows;
- extensions (for molding seams);
- A hammer-pick to withdraw incomplete bricks (halves, 3/4 and checks-1/4);
- Rule – metal or wooden flat bar to check the plane of the wall.
Additionally, we are discussing the technological features. First, it’s best to soak brick before using it. This is particularly valid in arid, hot weather. He won’t "pull" as much moisture from the solution after that. Insufficient moisture will prevent the cement from strengthening to the necessary degree, thereby compromising the building’s strength.
Two corners are driven out first, and then they are tied in multiple brickwork rows.
Second: the driver who exits the corners first. Initially, the initial two. Using two or three rows of bricks, they are joined in accordance with the chosen masonry scheme. The third corner is then removed. Several complete rows bind the second and third as well. after the perimeter is sealed and the fourth corner is positioned. They won’t drive the walls in turn, so the walls should be built around the perimeter without them. Among the most frequent errors is this one.
Third: Two rows of control technologies exist. The lace laces are tied to first-nails that are inserted into the corner seams. It must be pulled in order to delineate the upper face of the brick and to define the boundaries of the wall’s exterior and, if required, interior surfaces.
Other than securing a patching cord
The use of metal or wooden guards is the second method. This is a corner or flat bar with markings every 77 mm that indicate potential hazards to trees or metal cuts. They make note of the necessary row thickness, which is the brick height plus seam. Flat mounting brackets are inserted into the seam and used to install them. Then, they are just removed and rearranged above if needed.
The mason’s corner is an alternative route. It features a slot on one side that a moor fits into. "Sitting" according to the solution’s angle.
Making a row with a mason’s coal
The drawback of this approach is the same as that of a simple nail in the seam: after the angles are removed, the row’s height needs to be adjusted "manually." It’s challenging to perform bricklaying with your hands if you lack experience (or don’t know where to obtain it). Everything is simpler when you have it (make it on your own).
Fourth: preparation of incomplete bricks. As you saw, halves, three -occasional bricks and checks are used during masonry – 1/4 of the part. So that the work is not inhibited, before starting the masonry, it is required to prepare them. This is done using a hammer-brick. In the preparation, high accuracy in size is required, otherwise the dressing. To control the length, it was easier to control the handle of the corresponding length. Putting the handle to the brick, they make marks on both sides spoon. Then, putting the Kirki blade to the mark, they hit with a hammer on the reverse side, making a zaruk. Having made huts on both spoons, a strong blow is broken brick.
Varieties of basements
The base’s front wall’s placement in relation to the facade determines this:
- protruding. The option is used when it is necessary to increase the bearing capacity of the basement. In this case, the element is two to three centimeters put forward behind the wall plane. There is a drawback – you will have to take measures to divert rain moisture flowing through the building;
- Western. The wall of the facade hangs over the basement. It is best to use this option when strong building materials that did not need additional decoration were used for the manufacture of the basement;
- In one plane. The basement and the wall are in the same plane. In this way they are rarely used and mainly – on outbuildings of secondary importance. The finishing layer is performed by one material.
There are no specific requirements for the height of the basement; everything is based on the foundation’s presence and the basement’s actual height.
Step -by -step instructions for the masonry of the basement
Step 1: Determine the necessary quantity based on the masonry’s height and width. Consult the table for information on an approximate amount.
How much brick a basement needs for every square meter.
The number of brick sizes and joint parameters are not considered when calculating the number of seams.
One-and-a-half brick sizes
You will need to separately calculate the basement’s volume and divide it by one brick if you are working with non-standard brick sizes. Nothing is difficult, and there’s no need to explain them.
Step 2: Verify that the foundation tape is horizontal. If the foundation was constructed by qualified builders, the structure’s corners will deviate from the horizontal by no more than two centimeters. This spread can be readily fixed without the need for extra work when the first row of the basement’s base is being prepared. Make sure the foundation is horizontal by using a laser or water level. Were there any notable deviations discovered? The tape will need to be leveled.
- Fasten at the corners of the foundation even rails in an upright position. The dimensions are arbitrary, it is not necessary to take long.
- Beat the horizontal on one of them, transfer the horizontal value to the second rail.
- Pull the rope on the tags, do not allow sagging. Measure the distance between the rope and the plane of the foundation along the entire length of the tape. Thus, you can evaluate the approximate amount of work and calculate the number of materials.
- If the irregularities exceed 2 centimeters, you will have to prepare a concrete mixture, the spread is less-you can use an ordinary cement-sand mortar. One conditions – during the manufacture of the material, increase the amount of cement, it should be at least three parts per part of the sand.
- Put the finished solution on the surface of the foundation tape and align along a stretched rope. Work can be done by eye, in the future the bricks of the basement will be installed in level and all flaws will be eliminated.
- For hardening, you will need at least two weeks. If the weather is very hot and dry, then the solution must be maintained abundantly with water at least three times a day.
Don’t rush into laying the basement floor right away; instead, carefully follow the suggested technology.
Step 3: Apply two layers of roofing material to a flat piece of tape to waterproof bricks.
This is crucial because the base will quickly collapse if waterproofing is not applied.
Step 4. You need to start masonry with laying two corners. The technology depends on how many bricks are in a row in width. You can put corners from one, one and a half, two, two and a half and three bricks. If you do not have experience in the production of such work, then practice. First fold bricks without solution, then work with the solution. Movements should become automatic, during training, constantly use controlling tools. Be sure to dress, alternate spoon and tech rows. Experience has appeared – put the corners directly on the foundation tape. Higher angles 5–7 bricks. To begin with a height, it is enough, it is easier to control the correctness of the masonry and timely correct possible deviations of the position of the basement.
When laying the basement, use a chain dressing system.
Step 5: Stretch the rope and drive cloves at the top of the first row of each corner. Ensure that the rope is precisely positioned on the brick faces. At this point, finish the base’s angle preparation work and begin working on the straight sections.
The base’s brick masonry
Masonry in a brick basement
Praised for the basement’s brickwork
Additionally, labor on the basement is identical to labor on the wall; rows are continuously ligated. Use clinker bricks exclusively from the visible side if you’re using them for external surfaces.
Varieties of the basement
It is permitted to use the brick that was previously used for basement construction. It is important to remember that this substance ought to be strong. This will guarantee the general durability of the entire structure. Two primary tasks are thus resolved:
- Reduced expenses on a new brick;
- a full -bodied material with high quality is used.
The basements will be discussed after the wall decoration process is finished and the space has been insulated.
This statement is especially crucial because it allows for the mutual arrangement of the structure’s details to be altered while work is being done. There are three primary varieties of brick basements that are permitted to go to sleep.
It is important to emphasize its following varieties as a result:
- protruding relative to walls;
- drowning;
- on the same level with the wall.
Regarding the first kind of basement, this layout calls for the inclusion of a drain for protection. This is because a structure like this is exposed to a lot of atmospheric precipitation. Thus, only premium materials should be used for masonry. These days, it is uncommon to find a structure like this one or one that allows a brick base to be positioned level with a wall.
It is important to properly set the corners before starting any masonry work.
In the West, masonry is used to support surfaces composed of gas-sized blocks. With this foundation, rain cannot enter the space beneath the wall. It will be buried, and the layer of waterproofing offers dependable defense against outside factors. Additionally, there is a chance to save money that will be used for building. It should be mentioned that the base of a house only becomes Western after plastering the walls and adding polystyrene insulation.
Recommendations for choosing a brick for a basement
As previously stated, our recommendations only apply to the project; all specifications and limitations for the bricks are listed there. They do not pertain to residential buildings. Examine the situations where brick is the only material used for the base of non-residential buildings and outbuildings. What qualities must the material be chosen based on?
Frost resistance
Bricks, depending on the brand and manufacturing technology, have this indicator from F15 to F100 or more. This means that the material can withstand 25–100 freezing cycles/measurement at maximum humidity. And moisture permeability ranges from 2% to 12%. State standards regulate the minimum period of natural wear of buildings, it is 50 years. If the F50 brick is fifty times to dip in the water and then put it in the cold, then it will lose about 30% of the initial strength, which is considered a critical value. But the basement brick will never completely get wet, it is always plastered or protected by other coatings. In practice, the brick brand F50 holds much more than fifty freezing cycles/defrosting.
The quantity of freezing and thawing cycles that a stone can withstand before losing its strength is known as its frost resistance.
What factors determine why bricks lose strength during freezing or thawing? Water expands by roughly 10% when it freezes, and ice efforts get so big that no common building material can withstand them. The rate of destruction increases with the amount of water and ice microcrystals present in brick.
Brick with ceramic thickening, 250 x 120 x 88 mm, M-150, F 50
Strength
GOST 530-2007 states that the brand of brick used for load-bearing walls must be at least M125. For the basement, designers advise utilizing brick brand M150 with a safety margin.
While bricks produced using a wide range of materials and technologies can be used with these indicators, some of them cannot function in highly humid environments.
How bricks function
Take one instance into consideration. Brick bearing the M100 brand is capable of supporting a load of at least 100 kg and not more than 125 kg per square centimeter. A typical brick’s surface area is 25 cm × 12 cm, or 300 cm^. The M100 brand of bricks is made to support loads of at least thirty tons.
M100 full-bodied brick
We provided the computation so that you can visualize what kind of efforts can withstand bricks from different brands more clearly. Naturally, these values assume that the load is applied uniformly across the whole surface (bed); however, in actuality, this is rarely the case because of air pockets in the masonry.
Which kinds of bricks are appropriate for the basement?
Now that you are aware of the specifications for the basement and the bricks’ technical specifications, you can deliberately select particular materials and move forward with the element’s masonry.
Base
Usually, the brick used to lay the foundation is also used to lay the base of the house. Although it is not advised, silicate brick can occasionally be used for the foundation’s basement. Brick can be used to cover walls and a basement; however, this needs to be considered when laying out the foundation and expanded by approximately 12 cm, as this is the standard thickness for facing brick.
A unique facing, also known as clinker, is brick used to face the foundation. Everyone has to decide for themselves which brick is better for the base; they are both attractive and long-lasting, possessing all the qualities of construction brick. There are various ways to attach the cladding to the walls; watch the video to learn how.
Features of brickwork of the basement
It is crucial to handle the phased performance of work carefully and to follow the instructions exactly. This will enable the acquisition of a high-quality structure.
Bricks are placed along the intended structure’s width to create building angles.
Applying the level is crucial for ensuring that the angles are positioned accurately. The bricks remain in place once the position has been determined with the level. then take a measurement of the surface’s sides and diagonals; they must be equal.
This allows for the verification of the accuracy of the brick staging. The error maximum is two centimeters. The strength of the house is impacted by the proper angle installation.
There are several subtleties involved in bricklaying.
Brick masonry has its own subtleties when it comes to building various stages of the structure:
- A brick for a basement is placed on a solution of cement and sand: in it one part of the cement corresponds to three parts of sand.
- The thickness of the basement determines the material that will be used for insulation. When using polystyrene, the thickness should not be more than 38 cm.
- Typically, masonry is done in 2 bricks, such a technique is optimal. Do not forget about the thickness of the planned walls. Do not advise laying out the basement thicker than walls. Then, at the junction of the basement and walls, water can accumulate, which will entail accelerated destruction of the room.
- When laying out, you can use different bricks. The choice depends on the installation. Both solid bricks and its halves can be applied. When laying, it is recommended not to forget about the ventilation holes, they should be 2 meters from each other.
- It is recommended to reinforce the masonry every 2-4 rows, for this purpose, a cellular mesh is used 5*5 cm.
- In relation to the walls, the base may be flush or sink. It is better to prefer the second option, this will not allow moisture from the walls.
Brick basement technology
Brick masonry on the foundation’s surface should be done according to certain guidelines to guarantee the superior quality of the design that is produced.
Preparation of the necessary materials
Masonry made of bricks at the base
Prior to beginning the main task, prepare the solution. Since it hardens and loses its properties quickly, it must be used within three hours. You have two options for cooking cement-sand mortar: use a concrete mixer or do it by hand.
Using a special mortar shovel, take a suitable pelvis and fall asleep with sand and cement (4: 1). Water and two to three drops of liquid soap are added after the dry ingredients have been combined (add additional plasticity to the solution). To obtain a homogenous mixture, all ingredients are thoroughly mixed.
Experts advise pre-soaking the brick for fifteen minutes in regular water. Such a material is much easier to lay and will make it easier to fix any small flaws that arise during operation. The material is first soaked to create seams that are substantially stronger than typical. This is made possible by the solution’s capillary moisture not penetrating the masonry.
Brick masonry technology
The guidelines listed below should be followed to ensure high-quality brickwork:
Types of brick masonry
- Initially, angles are set, which should be at the same level. Between them pulls the cord for laying the following bricks.
- The solution for the lower row is applied directly to the roofing material, distributed by the cell so that it does not reach the edges by 2-3 cm.
- The thickness of the seam is usually 12 mm, and when reinforcing reaches 16 mm (a metal mesh is used).
- The angle is formed with two bricks laid at right angles. For reliable fixation, a construction hammer is used.
- The excess solution is removed by the cell. It is applied to the side faces of red brick to form vertical seams.
- The position of each brick is checked using the level and plumb.
- All masonry elements are carefully pressed to the surface, which ensures the reliability of the created structure.
- Bricks at the corners are laid several rows higher, which allows you to pull between them a cord to form the entire masonry.
- During operation, the quality of the masonry of the angles is checked by a square, level and a plumb line.
- in a vertical plane up to 10 mm;
- in horizontal – 5 mm.
If minor flaws are found, they can be fixed by adjusting the seam’s thickness. However, if the disparities are significant, this method cannot eliminate them.
As a result, each brick must be given the attention it deserves when laying each row. Particular attention must be paid to the angles that have an impact on the overall quality of the structure.
Video on the topic: how to put a brick correctly
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Operation conditions determine the approach
Generally speaking, the masonry technology used in the brick basement allows for the use of one of the five clinker types that have been submitted (see the text’s description).
When it comes to the working environment for brick, it’s very harsh:
- Firstly, the brick should be very durable-he has to hold the whole building;
- Secondly, the brick should have good frost resistance, because it directly makes up the outer wall of the building;
- thirdly, the brick should not pass moisture and not undergo changes under the influence of moisture.
Clinker brick
The clinker brick fully satisfies each of these requirements, featuring:
- strength – from M75 to M500 (silicate is very inferior here, but the acid -pusher is ahead – more M500);
- Frost resistance – from F50 to F100 (this indicator is very losing the ball and acid -pushed);
- average density (kg per cube.m) – 1900 – 2100;
- porosity (%) – 5;
- Thermal conductivity (WT meter) – 1.16.
The next decision is to identify the kind of clinker brick.
There are a whopping five of them:
- A – facing;
- B – construction;
- C – single;
- D is one and a half;
- E is double.
With a strength of M400 and frost resistance no worse than F50, one and a half clinker bricks are therefore the best option.
Requirements
Furthermore, the brick is presented with additional requirements that consider operating conditions:
- He should not have chips and signs of deformation;
- Its dimensions should accurately comply with the standards;
- The brick should not have any complaints from the point of view of ecology;
- A cement mortar will be used as a binder, so it must have good adhesion with a solution.
Characteristics of the main types of material
Currently, industry produces three primary types. Think about which one would work best for basement construction.
Brick silicate
Brick made of silicate.
- The production technology of these products is such that their final price is small. The main drawback of the material is poorly tolerates operation with high humidity. This happens because its basis is the lime and sand produced using the pressing method.
- With the prolonged action of moisture, the elements of silicate masonry absorb it, swell, gradually lose strength and then destroy.
- Based on this, the manufacture of a base of such a material is least acceptable. The instructions advise using silicate bricks in this case only in dry climate conditions and in protecting such a basement masonry with reliable waterproofing.
Analogs from clay
Clay-based red brick.
- Unlike a silicate analogue, ceramic brick does not press, but is burned. Therefore, this material is more suitable for the installation of basements of buildings, t.To. has a higher level of strength, moisture resistance and frost resistance.
- However, he also absorbs water.
- Based on this, before laying a brick base of this type, select its brand. For example, M-150 products can withstand approximately 50/60 thawing/freezing cycles. If the climate in your region is wet and rainy, it is best to prefer M-250 brand.
Clinker material
Ceramic clinker block.
Clinker brick is an additional type of ceramic building material. He is the most qualified person to install basements using your own two hands. Special varieties of clay that are burned at extremely high temperatures are used to make similar products.
A brick will make a faint, ringing sound when you knock on it.
- The material is not afraid of moisture.
- Has a high level of frost resistance.
- Has an excellent bearing ability.
- It is characterized by increased strength.
- The sizes of bricks are standard. This gives the masonry accuracy and reduces the complexity of work.
- The material has excellent adhesion with the masonry mixture. This stops the formation of cracks and cracks through which a cold and water can penetrate.
Establishing a sturdy base is essential for the equilibrium and durability of your house. For a strip foundation, a brick base offers a strong support structure, particularly in regions where soil shifting and severe weather are common occurrences. Homeowners can tackle this project with confidence if they know how to build a brick basement and follow a step-by-step guide.
First and foremost, the site needs to be appropriately prepared. Make sure the area is clean and level by removing any plants and debris. After taking into consideration the thickness of the brick base and the concrete slab, excavate the soil to the necessary depth. Ensuring the stability and integrity of the foundation requires proper excavation.
Building the footings comes next after the site is ready. These footings evenly distribute the weight of the structure and give the brick walls a sturdy foundation. In order to increase strength and durability, reinforcing steel bars, or rebar, are frequently used within the footings. At this point, paying close attention to detail is crucial to avoiding settling problems or structural instability later on.
The brick walls can be built now that the footings are in position. To guarantee the longevity of the structure, premium bricks and mortar appropriate for below-grade applications must be used. To ensure a solid and stable connection, mortar should be applied evenly and each brick should be placed with care. It is essential to periodically check for plumb and level as the walls rise in order to preserve consistency and structural integrity.
Last but not least, adequate insulation and waterproofing are necessary to shield the basement from moisture and temperature changes. A more comfortable and energy-efficient living space can be achieved by adding insulation and applying a waterproofing membrane to the exterior walls to stop water infiltration and reduce heat loss.
In conclusion, for homeowners who are prepared to invest the necessary time and energy, building a brick base for a strip foundation is a doable project. Homeowners can build a strong and long-lasting foundation for their houses, guaranteeing years of stability and comfort, by paying close attention to detail and adhering to a phased instruction.