Box for the hood: masking, calculation of parameters, materials and installation

It is essential to pay attention to details like appropriate insulation and heating systems if we want to maintain our homes comfortable and energy-efficient. The ventilation hood, the box-shaped device that rests above our stovetops, is one feature that is frequently disregarded. Despite its seemingly small size, it is essential for keeping smoke, excess heat, and cooking fumes out of our kitchens. We’ll explore the significance of the hood in this post, along with ways to conceal it in your kitchen’s design, calculate its parameters for best results, identify common materials, and provide step-by-step installation advice.

Let’s start by discussing the significance of the ventilation hood. It is more than just a decorative element; it has a functional use. Cooking releases a lot of grease, smells, and particulates into the air. These can remain in your kitchen without enough ventilation, which can lead to discomfort and even health problems. To ensure that you and your family are in a cleaner, more breathable environment, the hood functions as a barrier, trapping these pollutants and forcing them outside.

Let us now discuss aesthetics. Nobody wants an unsightly object to throw off the balance of their kitchen’s design. This is where hiding the hood becomes useful. There are several ways to blend the hood in seamlessly with the overall design of your kitchen, regardless of your preference for a more traditional or sleek and minimalist look. We’ll look at ways to make the hood not only useful but also aesthetically beautiful, from covert installations to unique enclosures that complement your cabinetry.

Knowing your hood’s parameters is essential to making sure it operates at its best. The proper specifications for your hood depend on a number of factors, including your home’s layout, cooking style, and kitchen size. We’ll walk you through the calculations and assist you in selecting the appropriate size, suction power, and ducting configuration to efficiently remove cooking residues while consuming the least amount of energy.

Let’s talk about materials next. The hood’s construction affects its strength, usefulness, and visual appeal. Common materials include wood for a rustic feel, stainless steel for a modern appearance, or custom finishes to match your kitchen’s decor. We’ll go over the benefits and drawbacks of each choice, assisting you in making an informed choice that fits your needs and budget.

Lastly, we’ll guide you through the process of installation. Although it’s always possible to hire an expert, many homeowners find more satisfaction in do-it-yourself projects. We’ll include advice on how to ensure a safe and effective installation in addition to detailed instructions. Whether you’re installing a new hood or replacing an old one, following our instructions can help you do the job confidently.

Box for a plastic hood: pluses and important points of installation

Any kitchen is full-fledged only when it will be equipped with all necessary appliances and systems. Removal of odors, drops of grease and oil in the air from the room is carried out by a kitchen hood. But for their further output into the ventilation shaft is responsible for the ductwork. It would seem that this is an insignificant and not noteworthy detail, but in reality it is not so. It is not for nothing that there are different types of such systems, so for example a plastic hood box is as popular as a corrugated model or a metal one, for example. And even slightly surpasses them in this matter.
Here today in the article and find out how it favorably differs from its "congeners" and show what is included in its kit. And let"s also find out two important points that should be taken into account when installing it.

Features of the practical use of boxes

A swivel elbow with a variable angle is among the most intriguing solutions. The ventilation system’s air flows don’t always need to be turned at right angles. It is occasionally necessary to join two plastic boxes at a 30° or 60° angle. Without a "variable," making a joint is nearly impossible.

There are three sizes of boxes available on the market: 35 cm, 50 cm, and 100 cm. The plastic box is divided into sections, each of which is a finished product with an expansion at one end and a seating belt at the other. You can easily dial the duct for any complexity of ventilation system by simply inserting the belt of one section into the expansion of the second.

It’s important to remember that the receiving unit, which could be the shower cubicle entrance window or the hood outlet, needs to be assembled first when assembling the ventilation system. A landing belt needs to be installed on the receiving assembly fitting. Place the box’s first section, by extension, on the intake unit’s sash. It turns out that the direction of the flow will be followed in the dressing of all subsequent plastic sections. In a similar vein, any shaped element is used for docking.

Even arrows have been added by some manufacturers to the box’s surface to aid in navigation during assembly. Why is this carried out? The majority of ventilation systems are put together without the use of gaskets or sealing rubbers at the joints. In the event that the boxes are installed correctly, air will escape the room through leaks in the air flow. There is always less air pressure inside the flow than outside the box.

Contaminated air will seep through the joints in the boxes due to the dynamic head if the ventilation system is incorrectly assembled.

Master mechanics frequently use a fun method to verify that the ventilation system assembly is correct. Rather than carefully examining every plastic box to search for marks and arrows, an electric fan is turned on and a stream of smoke is directed into the hood. You will notice smoke seeping from the joints of the plastic boxes if the ventilation system is not put together properly.

Plastic ducts with rubber gaskets at the joints are typically used for lengthy ventilation systems. The locations where the air siphons cause the most trouble are at the swivel elbows’ outlets. Unclean stains on the plastic surrounding the joint line are an easy way to find leaks.

Installing a suitable hood box is an important but sometimes disregarded step toward improving the insulation and heating efficiency of a home. This seemingly insignificant part is crucial for maximizing ventilation, reducing heat loss, and preserving interior comfort. The hood’s box needs to be carefully considered for a variety of reasons, including hiding unsightly ductwork, making sure that dimensions are calculated correctly, and choosing appropriate materials. Through comprehension of its operation and adherence to recommended installation procedures, homeowners can efficiently enhance energy economy, minimize heating expenses, and establish a more cozy living space.

Types of exhaust systems

Devices vary in terms of shape, attachment method, and operating principle.

The division of hoods based on the principle of operation is as follows:

• Active, with built-in motor or fan.
• Passive, working only due to a good draught.

The kitchen hood can be fixed in two different ways:

• Open – when the entire structure is in plain view. This option looks aesthetically pleasing due to the design developments. But the price of such a hood is higher.

• Built-in – when all elements except the facade are hidden from view.

Four types of hoods exist:

• Island – attached only to the ceiling. Often used in kitchens with an island-type work area.
• Wall-mounted – fixed to the wall.
• Recessed – perfect for small rooms. There are no air ducts, the product is attached to the wall or to a box.
• Corner – essentially a wall-mounted kitchen hood. Designed for cases where the stove is located in a corner.

Materials for choosing boxes for the kitchen, advantages and disadvantages

In addition to serving as decorative elements, decorative boxes that conceal ventilation system components also lessen hood motor noise.

What kind of material the box is made of is important.

When cooking, it should be immune to moisture, temperature changes, and mechanical and chemical shock.

Any type of box needs to have its dirt, oil, and dust removed on a regular basis. There are benefits and drawbacks to the materials used to make the boxes.

It is therefore important to consider this when purchasing or creating it yourself. Plasterboard, metal, wood, and plastic are the materials used in construction.

Plastic construction

Polyvinyl chloride is what we call plastic. Both round and rectangular plastic boxes are available. A rectangular box is more aesthetically pleasing and goes well with kitchen cabinets.

Easily and quickly put together. The material is not prone to corrosion, has a long service life, and is extremely soundproof. Simple to cut and position. It weighs very little.

One of the drawbacks of plastic is that its original white color eventually turns matte, gray, or yellow. forms dents as a result of mechanical impact or object weight.

Its surface eventually becomes porous, allowing dirt and dust to seep through and become difficult to remove. The order must be followed when assembling the plastic element connections.

You should apply silicone to the joints to ensure tightness and prevent soiled air from penetrating into the room and landing on the box’s surface. There are numerous docking parts available for purchase for connections.

They are employed to join ducts at any angle and in any direction. The structure’s fasteners should be spaced at least one meter apart along its whole length, and they should be reinforced at the joints where the various parts join.

Metal construction

A metal box or hood has greater structural integrity. An excellent place to start is with stainless steel. Paint that is based on powder is applied to regular metal.

Stainless steel is robust, long-lasting, easy to clean, and does not absorb dirt. It stands out for its chic, contemporary design. There are no scratches visible. There is no chance of corrosion with this material.

The expensive cost and limited color selection are among the drawbacks. Assembly is challenging, and measurement accuracy must be monitored. Because of its weight, the construction needs sturdy fastening.

This type of material does not shield the box from noise, and fingerprints—which are hard to remove—remain on the surface. It appears bulky and doesn’t always fit into the furniture’s interior.

Welding and bolgar cutting are used to assemble the metal frame. Use metal glue instead of welding if the metal sheet is thin. There is overlap between the sheets.

Plasterboard constructions

Affordable, lightweight material: drywall is simple to put together in any arrangement or shape. Installing metal profiles is required in order to mount.

Enables you to quickly put together a box to conceal ducts.

Gypsum board is a delicate material, so exercise caution when handling it.

Because the material is practical and simple to work with, you don’t need to hire an expert or incur extra costs to make and assemble the box. Once the box is complete, it can be processed, puttied, and finished with tiles, wallpaper, mosaics, and other decorative materials.

It will last for a very long time if used properly and protected from outside influences.

Decorative box made of wood

The wood box complements the kitchen set made of the same material nicely. With identical characteristics, it will be a component of the kitchen, serving a practical as well as aesthetic purpose while enhancing the style of design.

Wood is a low-maintenance, dependable, and environmentally friendly material. The finished structure is heavy, which is a drawback.

Recommendations on the choice of air duct

For homeowners, the cost, appearance, and functionality of ventilation ducts are secondary considerations when making their choice. The flexible corrugation clearly prevails here since it is significantly less expensive than the alternative choices and doesn’t require any fittings.

Here are our suggestions for selecting a ventilation box for your hood:

1. Two types of ducts are suitable for outdoor installation – plastic and metal. The first are cheaper, but look worse, they are better hidden above cabinets or behind decorative cladding.
   On the left in the photo is the installation of the vent channel behind the plasterboard paneling, on the right – the laying inside the furniture
2. For concealed installation you can take any duct: corrugated, PVC, galvanized. If you don"t care about noise levels, go with cheap aluminum ducting.
3. In a summer house, summer kitchen or veranda with a stove, connect the hood with a corrugated pipe. Plastic in such rooms is quickly contaminated, yellowing is quite difficult to remove.
4. If the apartment is made expensive repair, to save money and ugly interior is not allowed. Match the steel box, fittings and grille to the color of the hood. To the nickel-plated surface will perfectly fit stainless steel, golden – copper.

Advice: There is a single method for getting yellowing off white plastic. Try using acetone or solvent grade 647 to scrub away stains; these substances break down the plastic’s outer layer. It will be impossible to get rid of old, deeply ingrained dirt.

Reliability and durability of the material from which the duct is made

Plastic ducting is only trustworthy if the following usage guidelines are adhered to:

• Do not allow the temperature in the room to drop below the norm;
• do not overheat the duct above the value indicated in the characteristics;
• Do not expose the box to mechanical impact, avoid shocks.

The plastic ducting will outlast the manufacturer’s stated lifespan if it is used exactly as directed.

Overview of ducting for kitchen hoods

The exhaust outlet is connected to the vertical shaft opening using one of three types of boxes:

• flexible aluminum corrugation of "Aluvent" type;
• PVC plastic ducts of round and rectangular cross-section;
• metal ducts in different shapes.

Note: Ducts used in ventilation systems typically consist of multiple materials, including fabric and three-layer ducts that are sound-insulated. An extensive synopsis of ventilation ducts is provided in an additional article.

Let us now examine each category of kitchen exhaust ducts in detail, outlining the features, benefits, and drawbacks of each product.

Aluminum corrugated pipes

A soft wire frame covered in a thin layer of aluminum foil is the flexible duct. To improve sealing, a layer of polyester is layered on top. After being unpacked and compressed during transportation and sale, the pipeline is stretched to the desired length a maximum of five times.

Technical details about the duct:

• wall thickness – up to 100 microns, cross-section – round;
• maximum operating temperature – 250 °C;
• allowable bending radius is 0.7D (D – diameter);
• range of diameters: 80, 100, 110, 120, 125, 130, 140, 150 mm.

The main selling point of aluminum hoses is their reasonable price; one meter of stretched air duct with an Ø of 100 mm costs roughly 50 rubles. (0.9 у. е.). It is simple to match the duct to the ventilation grille and hood opening outlet diameter because of the wide variety of sizes available.

Installing the extractor hood’s corrugated ducting is a quick and simple process. After stretching the pipe to the necessary length, one end is installed in the exhaust unit’s socket and the other end is placed on the grille. The installation is then finished by fastening the corrugation with regular clamps.

Installing flexible corrugated pipe only takes five minutes, and clamps are sufficient to secure the ends.

Note: The pipe can be pulled out more tightly if the casing is damaged. The sleeve can be cut. However, it is not possible to directly join the ends of two corrugations; instead, a stiff intermediate pipe is required.

The drawbacks of flexible ducting

1. The appearance of the aluminum corrugation does not meet modern interior design requirements. The box is suitable for extraction at the country house, in a summer kitchen or in an apartment with ordinary renovation. In other cases, the pipe should be hidden behind a decorative casing or plasterboard cladding.
2. The corrugated wall structure creates increased resistance to air flow. The efficiency of the fan decreases.
3. For the same reason, more grease deposits are trapped inside the duct. It is impossible to clean the corrugation, it is easier to replace it.
4. Aluminum foil is easily damaged by any sharp object.

The corrugated pipe produces a lot of noise when the hood is running, which is the final drawback. The cause is a combination of the air-resisting corrugated profile and the vibration of the thin, flexible walls.

Corrugated pipes appear fine in short lengths but lose all of their beauty in longer ones.

Ventilation ducts made of plastic

Ducting is made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), which has a white color. Since piping cannot bend, shaped components such as couplings, nipples, elbows, tees, and various adapters are used to connect the various sections of the ventilation network. Features of boxes made of plastic:

• maximum temperature of the transported medium – 200 degrees Celsius;
• cross-sectional shape – round, rectangular (flat);
• diameters of round channels suitable for hoods are 100, 125, 150 mm;
• "popular" sizes of flat boxes are 55×110, 60×112, 60×204, 90×220 mm;
• length of standard section – from 35 cm to 2 m.

Citation. These are the home series pipes’ measurements. For an additional fee, non-standard products such as a 100 x 100 mm square duct or a vent box with an Ø of 180 mm can be ordered to be manufactured. Even though connecting the hood will only require 1-3 meters of ducting, it is easier to work with the current measurements.

There are two methods for attaching plastic ducts to fittings:

1. The round section is put on the outside of the mating part of the mounting element – branch, tee or nipple.
2. Rectangular pipes, on the contrary, are inserted inside the fittings. Couplings are used for joining straight sections.

The diagram on the right displays rectangular duct sections inserted into tee couplings, while the diagram on the left depicts the nipple connection of a round PVC duct.

The joint is completely sealed with silicone compound in both situations. You can alter the vent’s cross-sectional shape at any time by applying a tee with distinct leads or installing an adapter that is either straight or angled.

Plastic is substantially more expensive than corrugations with equivalent diameters. The price of a meter of Ø100 mm pipe is roughly 180 rubles. (3.15 у. е.), 110 x 55 mm rectangular box equivalent – 185 rubles. (3.3 у. е. This amount needs to be increased by the cost of the fixtures used in the scheme.

Additional drawbacks of ventilation boxes made of plastic:

• the color range is limited to light shades, black pipes are unrealistic to find;
• accordingly, dust and other pollutants are clearly visible on the duct;
• plastic is afraid of overheating over 200 °C and can burn on its own;
• over the years, polyvinyl chloride turns yellow and loses its appearance;
• walls of flat boxes sag at the joints, a 1-4 mm wide gap is formed, as shown in the photo.

When assembling flat PVC air ducts, it’s common to see wall deflection at the joints.

As the master in the video (see below) demonstrates, using short self-tapping screws is acceptable for a high-quality connection of flat ducts. The fitting and the box’s walls are firmly constrained by fasteners.

Let us highlight the benefits of plastic ventilation systems:

• satisfactory appearance;
• low resistance to air flow due to smooth walls;
• resistance to mechanical and chemical influences;
• low noise level when operating the hood;
• durable, lightweight construction.

Metal channels

To transfer contaminated air from the exhaust hood to the natural ventilation shaft, four different kinds of metal pipelines are used:

• Galvanized steel;
• of painted metal;
• stainless steel;
• copper.

Duct cross sections: square, oval, rectangular, and round. The selection of sizes is extensive, and the connection method includes both plastic ducts and fittings.

Copper blends beautifully with wood, and stainless ducting appears to be an extension of the hood.

Steel air pipelines have aesthetics as their primary benefit. The copper or stainless steel hood box in the picture fits into practically any type of kitchen interior. Galvanized ducts are an exception, as their outer coating rapidly becomes hazy without compromising their ability to resist corrosion.

Additional benefits of metal ducts:

• durability, long service life;
• low noise level;
• satisfactory roughness of the walls, aerodynamic resistance is low;
• metal can easily withstand heating up to 500 ° C, does not burn;
• polymer or zinc coating protects surfaces from corrosion.

The primary drawback of metal ducts is their expensive cost. The price of a meter of Ø100 galvanized duct is at least 180 rubles. (3.15 у. е.), however, it cannot be publicly laid out. The approximate cost of a comparable stainless steel box, excluding fittings, is 530 RUB./м. п. (8.1 у. е.).

Products composed of thin sheet metal coated with colored polymer (polyester) are a compromise option. Compared to copper and stainless steel, such air ducting is far less expensive.

There is a painted iron duct on the left side of the image, and a concealed galvanized pipe installation leading to the hood is on the right.

Iron boxes that are weight-ventilated lose to plastic, but not significantly. The plastic duct is up to 2 mm thick, while the metal duct is only 0.5–0.6 mm thick, so the difference is not noticeable.

Parameters of duct selection

Accurately calculating the ductwork’s parameters is essential for the ventilation system to operate normally when using a hood. Generally speaking, standard-sized and shaped plastic boxes are available for use in homes.

Calculation of the optimal cross-section of the ventilation duct

The internal cross-section of the ventilation duct is its primary measurement. It and the exhaust hood’s power determine how quickly air flows through the duct. Choosing the cross-section based on the maximum amount of air to pass through is done.

There are no normative documents governing the speed of household plastic ducts, so pay attention to the values that have been shown to be realistic—between 3 and 7 meters per second.

The unit’s data sheet specifies the size of the exhaust duct spigot, and the cross-sectional area of the box is either slightly larger or equal to that of the spigot.

It is acceptable to proportionately reduce the ventilation duct’s cross-section in relation to the outlet opening’s size if it is not planned to regularly activate the maximum mode.

It is possible to use the hood’s maximum capacity in small kitchens. This allows a duct with a smaller diameter than what the instructions call for to be used with an adapter.

Hence, the necessary cross-sectional area of the box is computed using the following formula if S is the exhaust duct branch’s cross-sectional area, N is the volume of air passing through at the device’s maximum mode, and M is the volume of air passing through at the planned mode:

An increase in friction force and notable air movement velocities are caused by an inadequate cross-sectional area of the box.

This could have the following unfavorable effects:

• there is an increase in the load on the ventilation mechanisms of the hood, which leads to a decrease in the operating life of the device and additional energy costs;
• due to increased resistance, there is a decrease in maximum capacity, which reduces indoor air turnover;
• as a result of aerodynamic effects in the ventilation duct, the operating noise level increases;
• There is an increase in air pressure from the inside on the elements of the system, as well as the emergence of vibrations, which requires more reliable fastening and sealing.

The forced ventilation system will continue to function even if the box’s cross-section is larger than it needs to be, but it will incur needless expenses.

Large-scale assemblies, such as ventilation ducts, are also more challenging to install and incorporate into building architecture.

You may accurately choose the size of the ventilation duct by using the table to calculate the flow rate’s dependence on exhaust power and the circular duct’s diameter.

Consideration of shape and size

Ventilation plastic ducts are either rounded or rectangular in shape. When comparing other geometric figures with the same area, a circle has the smallest perimeter.

Thus, the round shape of the channel is preferred from the standpoint of minimizing the resistance of the inner surface of the box to the movement of air flow generated by the hood.

The most popular round plastic boxes for the following diameters are sold for household use:

• 80 mm, cross-sectional area 50.3 sq. m. cm;
• 100 mm, cross-sectional area 78.5 sq. ft. see
• 125 mm, cross-sectional area 122.7 sq.m. see;
• 150 mm, cross-sectional area 176.7 sq.m. see.

Rectangular-shaped ventilation ducts are simpler to install within a room. They can be hung from ceilings that are stretched or tucked into spaces above kitchen cabinets.

The following are the most typical box sizes:

• 110 x 55 mm, cross-sectional area 60.5 sq. ft. cm;
• 120 x 60 mm, cross-sectional area of 72 square meters. see;
• 204 x 60 mm, cross-sectional area 122.4 sq. ft. cm.

It is possible to locate larger ventilation system components if needed. These are plastic household boxes, measuring 200 mm in diameter roundly and 220 x 90 mm rectangularly.

Prior to opting for non-standard sizes, it is imperative to confirm that acquiring all the components required to configure the ducting for the hood according to the specified geometry is feasible.

A wide variety of colors are available for plastic pipes and boxes designed for residential ventilation, making it simple to install the duct inside the room.

Correct connection of the extractor hood

Create a diagram showing how the unit’s exhaust opening and ventilation shaft are connected in order to order the necessary pipes and fittings. Observe these basic guidelines:

1. Ideally, the total length of the ducts should not exceed 2 meters: 1 meter in height + 1 meter horizontally up to the intake opening. A longer length will reduce the performance of the hood (although the user will not notice the difference as there is nothing to compare it to).
2. The optimum number of 90° turns is two. The more bends, the weaker the fan "pulls" due to the increased resistance of the ducts.
3. Consider the routing so that the ducting does not intersect with the gas pipe to the stove. If a crossing cannot be avoided, bypass the riser using 45° bends rather than right angles.
   An example of the layout of a long exhaust duct from the umbrella to the shaft opening
4. If possible, use circular ducts, from the aerodynamic point of view their capacity is higher. A real plus: the rounded surface collects less dust than a flat surface.
5. No complicated formulas are needed to calculate the diameter or dimensions of a square box. Orient on the cross-sectional area of the hood outlet – the air duct should be the same (or larger).
6. If the total length of the vent channel does not exceed 2 m, the cross-sectional area can be reduced by 15% without noticeable deterioration in the performance of the unit. But be aware: the appliance will make more noise.
7. If the length of the ducts is more than 2 m, the size of the pipe must not be reduced – the hood will lose significantly in power, and the electricity will "screw up" more. And in general, when the stove is located far from the ventilation, it is necessary to install a recirculating island hood without any ducts.

Since most kitchens only have one ventilation shaft, it’s crucial to leave an opening for natural ventilation to function when connecting the umbrella. In other words, just like in the picture, the duct is attached to a unique flange that has a grille on it.

Reference: The natural air exchange within the house will cease if the box completely encloses the exhaust opening. The fan impeller and the hood grease filter blocking the airflow will be too strong for the shaft draft to overcome.

Installing a tee with a check valve in place of a grille is the second method for providing ventilation when the hood isn’t working. The fan’s flap will slam shut when it is turned on and open again when it is turned off. One drawback is that the ceiling-mounted valve is unsightly and gathers dust.

It’s acceptable to go from round to square (and vice versa). One requirement is that the duct’s cross-sectional area cannot decrease (though it can increase). Use the proper fittings listed below to modify the duct’s shape.

Nuances of using an extractor hood

The gadget eliminates cinders, soot, and other offensive odors from the home. When using a stove or oven, this is usually the case. The forced ventilation system also lessens the amount of grease that accumulates on the items. It cleans the entire room’s atmosphere and extends the life of the furnishings.

Your comfort and even health are dependent on a properly installed hood. The flat model can be fixed to furniture or hung directly on the wall. In the second scenario, the duct hole in the cabinet where the device is to be installed needs to be attended to in addition. In this type of design, one of the two holes is sealed with a unique cover.

If you’re remodeling your kitchen extensively and haven’t installed the stove yet, take into account the following:

The hood needs to be mounted at the appropriate height.

1. The oven and hob should be as close to the vent as possible. Putting them against the opposite wall is the most unfortunate option. A long, curved duct pipe will work inefficiently and noisily in expelling dirty air from the room.
2. Usually, electric hoods have a short cord, so take care of plugging it in beforehand with an extra outlet or carry cord.
3. The best option is to hide the pipe in a cabinet right above the stove.

Plasterboard models

This option, which falls under the budget category, is decorative. You are able to make it yourself. It will easily cover up the corrugated ducting, which is clearly visible in the picture of the hood box.

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The model’s applicability is limited by the properties of the material; it is only utilized as a decorative element. The following will be the benefits:

• adaptability to a variety of interiors;
• The variety of solutions in finishing;
• budget.

Preparatory work

The construction of a drywall box for the kitchen is being done in phases. You have to follow the plan exactly if you want the outcome to be positive; the plan will be explained below. What you must do is

• prepare surfaces for installation;
• make a schematic drawing of the box;
• Apply markings on the ceiling;
• make a calculation of the material;
• procure all the necessary materials;
• prepare tools.

Let’s now examine each phase in more detail:

1. The ceiling and walls, where the box will be mounted, are cleaned from the old finishing material.
2. The surface is primed.
   Option of design and decoration of the box of plasterboard in the kitchen
3. All irregularities in the place where the rails pass through should be plastered over, cracks and chips in the floor slab should be fixed, if there are large gaps in the corners, they should be filled with foam.

It is important to prepare the surface with extreme caution. Remember that the kitchen is a humid space where the previous coating could come off with time.

Marking the walls and ceiling

The best place for the box to be installed in the kitchen is in the corner between the wall and the ceiling, regardless of whether it is referred to as a wall or ceiling box. Plasterboard boxes arranged on walls or ceilings create the illusion of a frame, beneath which the marking is done.

Using a laser level and a chisel cord greatly expedites the marking process.

Prior to anything else, the precise location of the pipe that will connect the ventilation window to the hood must be determined. Typically, it travels parallel to the floor and up the wall before passing beneath the ceiling. The kitchen under-hood box should be 5–10 cm bigger than the pipe’s diameter. As a result, you must measure and mark the appropriate distance down the wall starting from the lowest point of the ceiling. Using a level, draw a horizontal line the length of the wall. It will serve as a marker for the kitchen box’s lower hood boundary.

It is feasible to construct a box that only extends up to the hood rather than the full length of the kitchen, but in this instance, the design will be less appealing.

The distance from the wall’s highest point that protrudes is also equal. A matching mark is also made on the ceiling, and a level is used to draw another line across the whole ceiling. You must draw two more lines at right angles to one another from the two extreme points of the lines on the wall and ceiling. A level and a plumb bob are required. Repeat with the opposite edge of the designated area. This is how we draw the contours for the kitchen’s plasterboard profile box.

Mounting the frame for the hood

There are three horizontal lines—two short and one long—on the walls. Along them, the 28×27 mm guide profile is affixed to the wall. Making a V-shaped cut on the guide to bend at right angles and position the profile in the corner between the walls is the most practical method. You can use the same method for the second corner. Alternatively, you can attach brief profiles by just cutting them to the necessary length; this option is already more practical for everyone.

The profile and wall have holes drilled into them spaced 60 centimeters apart.

You will require a perforator for this task because the kitchen is frequently the location of the load-bearing wall. Dowels are used to secure the profiles to the wall (at least two per profile).

It is possible to sandwich sealing tape between the wall and the profile. It will serve as an effective additional soundproofing and lessen vibrations.

We mount the guides and repeat all of the wall-related procedures on the ceiling. We will get a framework of profiles when assembling a plasterboard box in the kitchen; the profiles rest against each other at right angles. The profile, or the frame’s projecting corner, needs to be fixed next. There are two ways to go about this.

1. Cut lintels of equal length and run them from top to bottom. Then at the bottom to them to attach a guide along the entire length of the wall.
2. Attach the plasterboard to the front wall. Lower the lintels from top to bottom, fixing them to the gypsum plasterboard. Then attach the profile to the lintels.

If one profile will do (the rail’s length is longer than the kitchen’s length), it is preferable to insert it and secure it in the corners. The horizontal rails on the opposite walls will just barely accommodate this profile. Subsequently, the inserted profile needs to be secured using tiny metal screws (two on each side).

Installing the lintels and laying the corrugations

The lintels from the 27×60 mm profile, which are secured with tiny self-tapping screws, descend from top to bottom. Only the installation of horizontal lintels is needed to finish the plasterboard box construction for the kitchen hood.

Self-tapping screws are used to fasten the lintels for a more secure fit.

These lintels will, however, be pushed into the corner profile’s rib as they fit into the wall profile’s groove. Thus, choose one of the two options available:

• The lintel is cut so that the back goes under the profile and the ribs are bent at right angles. In this case, you can attach the lintel to the profile, either through the back or through the ribs;
• The guide is cut into pieces of 10 cm, and these pieces are attached to the side of the corner profile so as to form a groove where you can insert the lintel.

Since there won’t be any heavy loads on the structure, the lintels can be installed in increments of 60 centimeters.

Communications wiring can be completed in conjunction with corrugation.

To ensure that a jumper is not inadvertently installed where the corrugation descends to the hood, you must ascertain its location. The ventilation window and the hood are connected by a duct made of corrugation. Corrugation should be connected to the ventilation window and run inside the box frame to the exit point (above the hood) prior to plasterboard cladding. Above the kitchen set, a plasterboard box is usually installed, so if you want, you can lay another corrugated pipe for future lighting.

Decorating with furniture ventilation ledge

When furniture is ordered on a custom basis, the box can be tastefully decorated. The plan is simple to implement: just a single hinged cabinet needs to be made, not a significant one. Work under it is completed in a manner akin to that of a working apron. This will aid in the protrusion’s smoothing.

If your kitchen is large enough for the room, use a pre-made set as decoration. Arrange it so that the floor cabinet with its doors open is in the area intended for ventilation.

It is important to familiarize yourself with every aspect of this item before beginning to repair or design a kitchen with a box.

A kitchen with a ledge will look amazing if built-in furniture is used to decorate the box. The protrusion won’t be apparent to the naked eye.

The ventilation shaft is beautifully decorated by hanging modules with vivid colors that are fixed to the walls. This will assist in detracting from the protrusion. You can visually equalize the space by selecting a floor covering with geometric patterns.

Final works on lining with GKL

All of the hard work is actually already behind us. All that’s left to do is screw on the GPB after cutting it into the necessary size strips. Since it needs to be covered from the front and the bottom, the kitchen hood box is actually almost ready. We cover the front first.

The sheets are positioned against the profile and fastened using self-tapping screws, spaced 20 centimeters apart. It is also necessary to screw self-tapping screws into the lintel locations. The box is fully lined from the front in this manner. Next, the sheets are screwed to the freshly screwed GKL from the bottom, starting from the wall. The installation plan is comparable. Cut a long sheet into several pieces, as it will be difficult to lift and hold above your head.

It will be necessary to drill a hole in the gypsum caron for the ventilation pipe at the designated location. If a drill nozzle is not specifically designed for it, it can be made beforehand on the floor and a sheet with a pre-drilled hole can be attached beforehand.

After assembling the plasterboard box for the kitchen hood, all that’s left to do is apply putty to all of the joints and self-tapping screws. This gets the structure ready for completion.

Avoid doing the installation of ducts incorrectly

The installation of the hood umbrella using round and rectangular ducts was demonstrated on the Ukrainian channel Iinter. There was a line of hanging cabinets encircling the kitchen. It was decided to strengthen a flat hood under this section. Above the stove, two vertically oriented holes were machined in the furniture to accept a 125 mm circular duct. The closet’s ceiling and floor were both riddled with holes. Putting in a big plastic duct.

The extractor hood was installed adjacent to the section, under the bottom of the unit. A section of the round duct went through the cabinet, extended from the top, attached with a special transition segment: the bottom side contains an inlet hole with a diameter of 125 mm, on the side – a rectangular outlet. From the segment to the ventilation hole, a flat duct for the extractor hood runs along the cabinets. Throughout the plastic duct the channel is invisible from the outside, the appearance of the kitchen remains the same. The rectangular duct was connected to the ventilation opening with another segment similar to the one mentioned above. The connecting element is a round section, equipped with two bends, tightly gripping the opening of the ventilation network.

Different kinds of plastic ducts

Though beautiful, it has three serious mistakes in terms of practicality:

1. Looking for a way to free itself, the air will traverse four 90-degree bends. Each turn reduces the efficiency of the hood by 10%. Four bends:

• just above the hood at the joint segment;
• Two corner bends at the second joint segment;
• A bend within the ventilation system.

40% decrease in efficiency.

1. Rectangular ducting is smaller in cross-section than round ducting, the performance of the hood will be greatly reduced.
2. The main disadvantage: the ventilation system is destroyed.

Let’s take a closer look at each of the three points. In terms of the quantity of bends—a nod to aesthetics—our installers had to sacrifice 20% of their capacity due to the additional bends. Using a round aluminum corrugation with a single bend above the hood was clearly the best option. Evident above the cabinet, easily fixed with a drywall or other decorative panel.

If the hood had had a flexible duct, it would have prevented losses when switching to a smaller rectangular section. How to move forward. Either work in the round or locate a segment that exits into a square duct with a comparable cross-section. The duct is more difficult to conceal, but its effectiveness is increased.

Features of installation with your own hands

If you choose to install the ductwork manually, there are a few steps involved in this process:

First things first, you need to decide where the duct is going to be installed. There needs to be preparation in this area. Depending on the model that was purchased, the hood is installed locally. The necessary installation level can be measured with a tape measure. You can then outline the markings after that.

You will need to file down the surface of the cabinet slightly if you are unable to achieve the required level due to its mounting above the stove. The unit motor will typically allow you to ascertain the height of the hood’s bottom. The size is usually between 0.5 and 0.7 meters.

After marking and confirming the structure’s level placement, you can begin sawing the cabinet’s sides to the necessary length. You can use an electric jigsaw as a tool; it has a wood saw that cuts wood "cleanly."

You will be able to achieve high-quality cuts with this apparatus. An ordinary hacksaw can be used in its place if you are unable to locate such a device.

Only after removing the cabinet from the wall can you begin this task. Maintaining an angle of 20 to 30 degrees between the work area and the locker surface is essential for achieving a high-quality surface when using the hand tool. The furniture’s appearance will be impacted by chipping on the back if this requirement is not fulfilled.

In order to install a through metal duct, a large diameter hole must be made. There are two types of metal ducting: corrugated and smooth-surfaced. You must install a flange where the hole is supposed to be formed. It will serve as a template, allowing for the marking of holes to occur.

You must drill a through hole within the intended marking using a wood drill bit with an 8 mm diameter.

You must then insert an electric jigsaw saw into the hole created, and use it to cut out the necessary component in accordance with the markings.

The best possible cutting quality will result from your choice of saw blade. If not, sandpaper will be required to finish the edges. Following this process, you can put the ready-made cabinet in place.

Connect the hood’s wires to the mains supply to supply the motor with electricity and lighting. The penultimate step in installing the ductwork is attaching the ventilation system to its location. The device’s body must be installed, and markings for fixing must be made. Create a hole that is two thirds the screw’s diameter. The structure’s body can then be hung after that.

After the hood is installed, use steel clamps to attach the duct to it. It is now essential to verify that the system is functioning properly.

You can avoid paying for professional assistance by installing the ductwork yourself with the aid of this guide.

Design and installation of the box in the kitchen

Building a drywall box for your kitchen is not difficult, but if you don’t follow the correct procedure, the finished product may be shoddy and of low quality.

Design and drawings

To ensure accuracy and avoid mistakes in calculations, you must create a drawing that indicates the dimensions and installation location of the box.

Sketch using the box’s measurements and the plasterboard ceiling that is suspended

Of course, you can download the box design and calculations from the Internet and view the design in the picture, but you might need to measure everything yourself if your kitchen isn’t standard or if you purchase a custom hood. When purchasing, be mindful of the profile’s rigidity; high-quality materials composed of superior galvanized metal are preferred.

Marking all the required connections and lintels with hangers on the drawing will make your work much easier. If you are unable to complete the drawings yourself, you can select the design by looking at the picture.

Most of the time, you begin by writing on the wall:

• make several marks on the wall, measuring the same distance from the ceiling, for example 50 cm;
• Then draw the lacing with dye. In order to leave an even strip on the wall – the thread should be pulled away and sharply released;

Underneath the box, marking the ceiling

then move on to the next wall and do the whole process again;

As soon as all the walls are marked, proceed to the ceiling. You can draw even lines on it with a hydro level, or you can use the same thread;

mark the end points of the fasteners on the ceiling to form the frame of the hood box.

You can start mounting the rigid frame beneath the drywall as soon as all of the box’s main lines have been drawn on the surface.

Installation of profiles

According to the plan, it is simpler to begin the installation with the wall guide profiles:

• Install the guiding element on the wall, press it strictly according to the drawing and directly through the wall make the first hole at the end of the profile, hammer a dowel-nail into it. Then proceed to the opposite edge and fix it in the same way. Then install dowels along the entire profile in 20 cm increments;
• The rest of the profiles are installed in the same way as described;
• move on to the ceiling and install the profiles on it.

It’s crucial! Verify the level’s profiles to make sure there are no misalignments.

• The next step is to install the cross members. They need to be cut from the rack profile. Equal sections with curved edges are screwed with self-tapping screws to the profile on the ceiling, the lintel spacing should be 60 cm if a simple box is mounted and 40 cm if reinforced;
• As soon as all the lintels around the perimeter are installed, the corner construction is assembled, for it two guide profiles are taken and put into each other. Then it is necessary to put the profile to the edges of the lintels, and screw it on. In this situation you need a helper. Check the level of the structure;
• Now you can start installing the lintels from the bottom of the future box;
• When everything is ready, once again check the design, all its edges should be at the same level. If there is a misalignment, it should be eliminated immediately.

Once the frame is ready, place the corrugation from below on its ribs and secure it in the stationary vent.

Putting the drywall box’s corrugations inside

The length of the corrugation should be sufficient to reach the hood above the stove. The gypsum board installation can now begin.

Fixing gypsum plasterboard sheets

Section the drywall before beginning to screw it together. Thus, it will be simpler to screw the parts together on your own:

• Plasterboard fragments are screwed to the frame and trimmed flush with the profile;
• If lighting is provided, then arrange holes for lamps;
• The step of self-tapping screws when fixing the GKL, should be 15 cm;
• After installing the bottom sheets, we move on to fixing the sides.

The application of gypsum plasterboard sheets

The kitchen plasterboard box is ready; all that needs to be done is cover it appropriately or get it ready for painting.

Finishing

Two layers of priming should be applied to the plasterboard ceiling before any finishing work is done. The kitchen area is humid, so don’t skimp on this material. Extend the joints at a 45-degree angle. We use a very light hand when hammering the plaster joints; a smooth seam minimizes the need for a thick putty layer. Apply serpianka glue to the joints and then apply plaster again. Installing a perforated corner is the next step, which will ensure that the box’s corner is smooth and even.

Mounted plasterboard box with a perforated corner

The box requires three coats of putty after the plaster dries. After the box has been perfectly smoothed, paint—preferably paint that resists moisture—can be applied. You can use the image or video to select the style of the plasterboard box or the curved pattern on the kitchen ceiling.

Crucial! Stretch ceilings, which are affixed straight to the box, are an additional option for kitchen ceiling design in addition to drywall construction.

Numerous images with these patterns can be found online. The video provides step-by-step instructions for installing the box.

Use as a functional attribute

From a functional standpoint, the design of a kitchen with a ledge can follow any of the following scenarios, or all of them. Numerous variations exist:

• If the dimensions allow, hang a TV on it.
• Install several shelves for kitchen trifles, spices, microwave oven (depending on the size of the box).
• Make a kind of continuation of the bar counter, the vertical part of which is directed to the ceiling.
• The easiest way is to place a few family photos.

If appropriate for a specific interior, the ventilation box in the middle of the wall can be used to zone space. In this case, drawing attention is accomplished by fusing two finishing options. For instance, one section of the ledge has glass mosaic lining, while the other has paint or other decorations.

The examples that have been provided demonstrate that having a ventilation box in the kitchen is not a disaster. This overhang can create a unique and fashionable space in the room with a skillful interior design and layout.

Hint: It will be harder to conceal a large hood structure in a smaller kitchen space. If you are unable to achieve the ideal balance, you might want to think about turning two nearby rooms into a living room. When the resulting room’s size has increased by two or three times, achieving the desired outcome is considerably simpler.

At the entrance

As previously mentioned, this is the general idea behind kitchen design with a ventilation box. Let’s examine the scenario using concrete examples, dissecting even the smallest details to reveal benefits and drawbacks for each incident considered separately.

• Arrangement of the box under the guise of a decorative element. An excellent option, not applicable to all cases. Structures made of galvanized metal have connecting joints, which can be hidden only by arranging an additional frame for plasterboard, PVC or MDF panels. The exception may be the situation when the flange is lower than 600 mm. from the floor level. In this case, it will be hidden by the countertop (if it is installed here). For all other options, this methodology is applicable.
• Masking with false furniture will be an excellent option for spacious rooms of a modern plan. For a 10 m2 kitchen. the loss of a free drawer for utensils would be a significant loss. The only option not to lose precious space of a small room – the use of full furniture. To create a unified facade you can install a cabinet with a smaller depth. In this case, it is better to be guided by the principle of having as much furniture as possible.
• The functional use of the ventilation shaft at the entrance will depend on what material it is made of. To fix the bracket for LCD TV on the surface of 2-mm polyvinyl chloride, galvanized tin or asbestos-cement pipe, is acceptable. But considering that the weight of the bracket itself is 500 g. plus about 10 kg. If you have a 32-inch LCD TV, you should not do so. The same situation applies to options for placing a shelf for a microwave oven. You can use butterfly dowels, but this will solve the problem with galvanized, and with asbestos cement and polyvinyl chloride – not.

Thus, setting up shelves for kitchen trifles—condiments, cutlery, and mementos—remains a good option. There are no such limitations with regard to ventilation ducts composed of reinforced concrete.

Advice: If the aforementioned subtleties prevent you from applying one of your preferred options for setting up the kitchen ventilation box at the entrance, think of other options.

In the corner

A similar methodology will be used to examine the ventilation box’s placement in the kitchen corner, paying close attention to even the smallest details and potential dangers:

• The corner location of the ventilation box is advantageous because in most cases it is removed from the working area (stove, sink). Distance of 500 mm. allows you to use any material, including those that are subject to combustion (PVC, MDF, melamine) or destroyed by moisture (melamine, MDF, gypsum, wallpaper, decorative plaster). If the builders organized the shaft closer than the distance given, the choice of finishing materials will be limited.
• Disguising a corner ventilation shaft with furniture is an excellent option in terms of aesthetics. On the functional side, space is guaranteed to be wasted. Restriction of convenient and free access and almost complete absence of space inside the box will make it "empty".
• The functionality of corner ventilation boxes in the kitchen interior will depend on its size. For example, the installation of a TV is possible only on the columns corresponding in size. In addition, it should not be forgotten what they are made of. Small-sized shafts from the point of view of practicality will be useful only for mounting shelves for useful trifles and souvenirs.

It’s a challenging but achievable task to remove the numerous drawbacks of having a ventilation box in a small kitchen. The apartment owners’ preferences will determine the process by which this is carried out. Some people want to outfit every available space in the room with extra drawers and shelves in order to make the most of it. Others like their kitchens to be spacious, free of furniture and other clutter.

Crucial! Any of the suggested solutions will be the best one if they are carried out correctly. What matters most is that the finished product must unmistakably adhere to the interior’s basic style.

Masking	Methods to conceal the hood box within kitchen cabinetry
Calculation of Parameters	Determining dimensions like width, depth, and height based on hood size and kitchen layout
Materials	Options for constructing the box, such as wood, metal, or composite materials
Installation	Steps to securely mount the hood box in place above the cooking area

Maintaining adequate ventilation in the house is crucial for avoiding moisture buildup and preserving air quality. In addition to hiding unsightly ductwork, a well-designed hood box is essential for effectively directing airflow. A neater, more integrated look in living areas can be achieved by homeowners by hiding the ducts inside a well-built box.

The size of the ductwork, the box’s dimensions, and the installation space are all taken into consideration when determining a hood box’s parameters. It’s crucial to take the hood’s airflow requirements into account and make sure there is enough room for ventilation. Homeowners can maximize the functionality of their hood box and seamlessly incorporate it into the design of their house by carefully measuring and planning.

When building a hood box, selecting the appropriate materials is essential for both longevity and style. Common materials include drywall, metal, and wood, each of which has benefits in terms of price, style, and ease of installation. Homeowners can design a hood box that not only works well but also improves the overall appearance of the room by choosing premium materials that go well with the existing décor.

Installing a hood box correctly is essential to its longevity and efficacy. Paying close attention to detail is crucial to preventing problems like air leaks or structural instability, regardless of whether you choose to DIY or hire a professional contractor. Homeowners can install their hood box with confidence, knowing that it will provide dependable ventilation for years to come, by adhering to manufacturer guidelines and local building codes.

In conclusion, a functional and aesthetically pleasing home ventilation system must include a well-thought-out and correctly installed hood box. Through meticulous consideration of elements like masking, parameter computation, materials, and installation, homeowners can create a living space that seamlessly blends style and functionality.

Video on the topic

How to attach a decorative hood box

Installation of hood boxes.

Recessed kitchen hood. Dimensions. How to build into a cupboard.