Batteries from pipes with their own hands

The value of having a warm and comfortable home increases as the winter months draw near. While conventional heating systems are widely used, the enterprising homeowner may want to take a more hands-on approach to improving the warmth of their house. Not only is making your own heating batteries out of pipes a satisfying do-it-yourself project, but it’s also a great way to save costs and alter your heating system to fit your needs.

Building your own heating batteries may seem like a difficult task, but it is completely doable with the correct equipment and some guidance. Basic plumbing knowledge and some inventive pipe arrangement are required for this project in order to effectively distribute heat throughout your house. Making your own radiators can be an exciting challenge, whether you’re looking to add character to your space or supplement your existing heating system.

Making your own allows you to design a system that is both functional and efficient, and fits in perfectly with the layout and aesthetics of your home. Before getting too technical, it’s important to understand the principles behind heating systems and the role that radiators play in them. Radiators work by circulating hot water or steam through a network of pipes, releasing heat into the room as the water cools.

Type of Pipe	Advantages
Copper Pipes	Durable and excellent heat conductor
Steel Pipes	Strong and handles high pressure well
Aluminum Pipes	Lightweight and resistant to corrosion

Types of homemade heating radiators

The simplest method for creating a heating register at home is to weld one or more pipes into a single unit. The device works on the same principle as cast-iron batteries: heat is generated in the metal by the coolant circulating inside, and air is heated as a result.

Registers can be installed on the wall or the floor and are appropriate for use in one- and two-pipe systems. Old houses often have heater-potenheaters in their bathrooms, which are the most basic examples of this type of heating device.

Sectional and coils are the two primary types of homemade registers. A sectional device is made up of pipes with varying diameters. The pipes with a smaller diameter are used to connect the elements of a larger diameter pipe, which are arranged parallel to each other and have plugs at the ends.

Principal categories of registers

The connecting spigots should be placed as close to the edges as feasible. Use more crosspieces for the construction’s strength; they expand the heating area and boost the device’s heat output.

In a design like this, the coolant always starts moving from the vessel that is higher than the others. The water then enters the subsequent element after passing through the spigot in the bottom row and traveling the full length.

Ensuring the strength of the welds is crucial, as they need to be able to endure pressures of at least 13 atmospheres.

S-shaped coils are made up of components that are welded together in series. Because the heat exchange occurs across the entire pipe surface, this design is more efficient. Since the coil lacks intermediate constrictions, the hydraulic resistance is consistently lower than that of a sectional register.

How to increase the heat transfer of heating batteries Memo

In order for radiators to produce more heat, five prerequisites must be met. Think about them:

1. Do not allow dust to collect on the heater, as micro-particles significantly reduce the heat output, it is also necessary to keep the inside of this device clean;
2. Paint heating devices better in a dark color, since it is such shades contribute not only to the absorption, but also to the emission of light. For this purpose it is better to use zinc-based whitewash and then the efficiency of the heating system and the radiator in particular will increase by almost 15%;
3. The simplest answer to the question: – how to increase the heat output of radiators? – is a tip: – on the wall behind the radiator it is necessary to hang a reflective screen, for this purpose ordinary foil is suitable, which will redirect the heat coming out of the outside into the inside of the room. Take this material or metal sheet and fix it on the wall (behind the heater) and you will immediately feel that the air is warmed;
4. In order to increase the heat output of the heating radiator it is necessary to increase the surface area of the radiator, for this purpose use covers, which can be made of aluminum. In the event that the battery does not heat the room well, then use such covers, as this metal quickly warms up and gives off heat.
5. If the batteries are often disconnected you need to buy an iron element, which warms up longer and transmits heat for a longer period of time;
6. When the warm air from the radiator circulates in an unnecessary direction, the radiator is directed to the air flow from working fans, which will redirect the hot air in the right direction;
7. If there are several computer coolers at home, which are not used, then they are placed at the bottom of the radiator, and they will help the warm air to circulate faster from the floor to the ceiling.

The cases under consideration provide an answer to the following query: – How can the heat output of batteries be increased? However, in addition to this, other considerations must be made, like the heater’s capacity, quality, connection technique, and adherence to certain installation guidelines.

How to make homemade heating radiators from profile pipes

Thankfully, a lot of customers can make their own heating radiators and save money by not having to buy pricey equipment from commercial manufacturers. A significant amount of time and effort will be required for independent manufacturing. The simplest method for creating a radiator is to use profile pipes with square or rectangular shapes.

The simplest method is to construct a radiator in the section using profile pipes that have a square or rectangular shape.

All welding tasks are made easier by the profile pipe’s easy fixation and lack of twist.

The radiator is constructed of profile pipe and has three horizontal pipes, four vertical crosspieces, six plugs, and couplings that are welded to the ends of the upper and lower pipes. To allow water to pass from the upper tube into the lower tube, vertical jumpers are positioned at the ends of the tubes. The future device’s dimensions must be determined before you can begin to build a radiator.

How to calculate the radiator’s size:

• Determine the place where it will be located.
• Calculate the volume of the room, determine the power that the radiator will have.
• Based on the data on the volume of the room and the power of the device, it is necessary to determine the dimensions that will fit the dimensions of the panel radiator.
• The volume of water can be determined using a special table.
• Knowing the volume of the inner profile tube, you can calculate its length. The resulting number should be divided by the cross-sectional area of the material that will be selected.

A new calculation must be performed after choosing a pipe with a large cross-section if the dina proves to be too big. A specialized construction store sells all the materials needed to manufacture the radiator. Typically, in manufacturing, shut-off valves, round pipe, steel sheet, smooth-walled profile pipe, and steel coupling are utilized.

Homemade heating registers

Naturally, it is simpler to get the desired temperature in the room when the area of heat exchange and the coolant’s volume component are increased. As a result, many property owners increase the amount of heat removed by designing radiators with non-standard designs, taking advantage of the fact that there is no application of control over heat extraction in each particular point.

This is actually forbidden since it is regarded as an unreasonable method of using energy resources. In actuality, they are more concerned with their personal welfare than with resources. But more directly to the point.

Handcrafted and installed heating register for technical purposes in one of the utility rooms. The supply and return of the coolant are located on one side of this four-pipe configuration.

Create the heating register by hand; this is a reasonably simple task, particularly if you are a skilled welder and have a welding machine nearby. The only thing left to do is buy the required amount of sheet metal and pipes with the appropriate diameter.

Welding the structure

Here’s how this procedure is carried out:

1. Pipes are set up with their own hands so that the 10-cm round tubes cut out between them will fit. The holes should "look" to the sides. The ends of the profile pipes should be in one straight line.
2. Wooden strips are placed under the round tubes or other objects (for example, a wrench) so that the first placed and tightly fit into the made holes.
3. The 25-mm tubes are welded together. The tubes are welded to the profile pipes in two or three places. If two tacking is performed, then they should be placed so that the line between them represents the diameter of the tube. If it is planned to make three tack welds, they are evenly distributed along the length of the tube. Having chosen one of these methods, fix each end of the lintel.
4. Put the structure in a vertical position and start welding the lintels of the profile tube. Specialists recommend first making a thin seam using a small current. This fills all gaps. Next, you need to make a thick main seam. Make it by increasing the welding current. This advice is primarily addressed to beginners. Professionals can immediately make a beautiful, durable and reliable thick seam. So weld the seams at each end of the lintel.
5. Clean the inner space The made construction from metal debris and slag.
6. Put on the plugs (rectangles or squares cut from sheet metal) to the ends of the profile pipes and tack them in the same way as they tacked the lintels.
7. Weld plugs to the ends of the base of the radiator. In the end, you will have a rough construction in which you still need to make holes for water inlet and outlet.
8. Welding seams are processed. Parts of the seams, which are very protruding, are knocked down with a hammer, which could be lying near the radiator wrench. Instead of a hammer, a large wrench can work. Next, each seam is processed with a bolgar. Thanks to grinding they will become smooth.
9. Holes in the almost finished radiator are drilled depending on how it will be connected. In general It is desirable to make four holes. The unnecessary one will be closed with a plug. Then, if necessary, it will be used. Holes can be made in the ends of the pipes or in the bottom and top side of the created structure. Again, everything depends on the peculiarities of connection. If holes should be in the ends of profile pipes, they are not made in the center of the ends. The upper holes are placed closer to the top of the structure, the lower ones – closer to the bottom.
10. To the holes made, 15 mm sleeves cut in half are welded. First they are tacked, and then the main welding seam is made. At the bottom, instead of couplings, transition elbows can be used. Of course, at the end of each of them must be an internal thread.
11. All seams are cleaned, three holes are plugged and water is poured into the radiator through the last one . Water must be supplied under pressure. Air can be pumped in. In any case, check the reliability of the seams. If there are problem places, they are marked and then additionally welded, having drained water before that. If not, that"s fine.
12. The outer surface is cleaned. treat, or rather wash it with degreaser and paint it with heat-resistant paint, which was next to the tools and radiator wrench.
13. In one of the upper holes, a Maevsky tap is installed (put the key to it in a safe and at the same time accessible place). It is also possible to fix the shut-off valves.

On what depends on the level of heat output of the heating battery

You must become familiar with the factors influencing the efficiency of the apartment’s central heating battery in order to comprehend the basic workings of the various techniques for raising the heat output.

Broadly speaking, the following variables affect the radiator’s heat output level:

• the material from which it is made;
• the number of sections affecting the heat transfer area;
• type of piping of the radiator;
• the speed of circulation of the coolant;
• the water heating level.

Indirect factors can also contribute to a heating radiator connected to a circuit not operating to its full potential. These include:

1. formation of air plugs;
2. clogging of radiators from the inside with solder, scale or limescale;
3. use of decorative boxes;
4. application of multiple layers of paint on the battery;
5. external contamination of radiator with dust.

Choice of heater configuration

The majority of homemade radiator designs are built using metal pipes that range in diameter from 80 to 150 mm. There are just two versions of the design features:

The lattice version of the heating battery is distinct from the "snake" version due to a marginally different circuit construction. Additionally, the coolant distribution may vary depending on variations in these batteries.

Differentiations in the heating register schematic construction for their manual production: A single jumper and a one-way supply are represented by 1 and 2, respectively. 3, 4, 5, and 6 are multi-tube; 3, two-way supply and two jumpers; and 4, two-way supply and four jumpers.

Since the coolant is assumed to move in a strictly sequential manner, coil constructions actually have a monotonous design.

Several schematics are used to construct lattice registers:

• with one or two jumpers and one-way supply;
• with one or two jumpers and multi-sided supply;
• parallel inclusion of pipes;
• sequential inclusion of pipes.

A single assembly may have two, four, or more tubes in it. Additionally, single-pipe register creation is a practice that is occasionally used. Typically, a coil assembly consists of a minimum of two pipes connected by a feed-through jumper consisting of two pipe bends (2×45º) on one side and a blind jumper on the other. Note that heating registers with coil designs are far less common than those with "grid" designs.

Different ways that "snake" type registers could be made. Compared to grid-type construction, there are fewer manufacturing options available for register batteries with coil construction.

Both lattice and serpentine manufacturing variations can be produced using profile pipes in addition to traditional round tubing. Because they necessitate a slightly different method of assembly when assembling heating radiators, profile pipes are regarded as a somewhat specialized material. On the other hand, the fact that profile pipe registers are smaller and require less usable space is also significant.

Small details.

To enhance the speed and precision of the steam heating radiator temperature measurement, a small quantity of heat conductive paste "KPT-8" should be applied to the digital thermometer’s ball sensor. For the duration of the measurement, the point of contact should be covered with multiple layers of cloth or a layer of foam rubber.

I started to doubt my digital thermometer’s accuracy after doing the experiment mentioned above. I cross-referenced its readings with those from a mercury thermometer to ensure they are accurate. I used both thermometers for this purpose, submerging them to the same depth in hot water and keeping an eye on the readings as the water cooled.

Constant fan operation quickly identified a flaw in contemporary technology.

If the 1973 "Penguin" fan’s front sliding bearing had a gland (the arrow indicates the hole where oil could be inserted), enabling it to function for nearly 40 years, then the current fan does not have a gland at all.

The Penguin also features a spring to stop the shaft from running out of length. After two days of use, the new fan started to rumble. One of the PTFE gaskets quickly wore out due to the longitudinal runout of the shaft brought on by the propeller’s eccentricity.

I needed two thin-walled washers and a few regular washers, along with a foam rubber gasket cut to size, to remove the longitudinal play.

I disassembled the stator first.

Subsequently, I positioned spacers and thin-walled washers on the motor shaft and utilized the remaining washers to increase the bearing clearance.

I made an oil seal out of felt and an oil seal plug out of a capron cover and pressed them into a recess around the shaft to make sure the fan would run for a very long time. Of course, I also didn’t save any oil.

Began considering purchasing twelve 120-millimeter computer fans. I believe that the noise level and heat dissipation efficiency should go down if I install them right in between the battery sections.

Heat output of 1 m. steel pipe

In order to determine how much heat will be required to warm the rooms and how long it will take, it is necessary to calculate the heat output of a pipe when designing a heating system. This calculation is required if the installation is not completed in accordance with standard projects.

For which systems the calculation is needed?

Underfloor heating involves the calculation of the heat transfer coefficient. Steel pipe systems are becoming less common in this system; however, if steel products are selected as heat carriers, the computation must be done. Another system that requires consideration of the heat output coefficient during installation is a coil.

Steel pipe radiator

Registers: These are thick pipes with crosspieces connecting them. An example of such a construction has an average heat output of 550 W per meter. The diameter is 32–219 mm in range. The structure is welded to prevent the components from heating up on top of one another. The heat transfer then speeds up. If the assembly is done correctly, you will have a sturdy and dependable room heater.

How to optimize the heat output of a steel pipe?

Experts have to decide whether to increase or decrease the heat output of one meter of steel pipe during the design phase. steel tubing. The infrared radiation must be changed to a larger side in order to increase. Paint is used to accomplish this. The color red produces more heat. A matte finish on the paint is preferable.

A different strategy is to install fins. It is externally mounted. As a result, the area for heat transfer will grow.

When does lowering the parameter become necessary? When optimizing a pipeline segment outside of the living area, this becomes necessary. Subsequently, professionals advise insulating the space to keep it separate from the external surroundings. Foam plastic and unique shells composed of specially foamed polyethylene are used in this process. Mineral wool is also used frequently.

Let"s calculate

The following formula can be used to calculate heat transfer:

• K – coefficient of thermal conductivity of steel;
• Q – heat transfer coefficient, W;
• F – area of the pipe section for which the calculation is made, m 2 dT – temperature head (sum of primary and final temperatures including room temperature), ° C.

The product’s area is taken into consideration when choosing the thermal conductivity coefficient K. The quantity of threads arranged within the premises affects its value as well. The coefficient’s value typically falls between 8 and 12.5.

Another name for dT is temperature head. The temperature at the boiler outlet must be added to the fixed temperature at the boiler inlet in order to calculate the parameter. The resultant value is divided by two or multiplied by 0.5. This value is deducted from the room temperature.

The value obtained is multiplied by the insulation material’s efficiency if the steel pipe is insulated. It displays the percentage of heat lost as the coolant passed through.

Calculate the return for 1 m. products

Simply calculate the heat output of a one-meter steel pipe. Now that we have the formula, all we need to do is change the values.

28 W = 0.047 * 10 * 60 = Q.

• К = 0.047, heat transfer coefficient;
• F = 10 m 2. pipe area;
• dT = 60° C, temperature head.

This is something to keep in mind

Do you wish to install the heating system professionally? Choosing pipes by sight is not required. Construction cost optimization is aided by heat transfer computations. A high-quality heating system with a long lifespan is available.

Let"s start making a homemade radiator

Let’s examine each point in detail:

1. To weld the supporting frame, you need steel pipes. For higher efficiency and heat transfer, it is better to use large diameter pipes. Scraps or scrap metal are suitable – the main thing is that they were in good condition and not covered with rust. If there are threads or other metal elements on the pipe, they must be cut off. All edges of pipes should be even, without burrs.
2. Calculate the capacity of the future radiator system. In order to competently distribute the batteries on the house, you need to record the square footage of the living area.

The master’s advise is to go ahead and calculate for typical cast iron pipes; you won’t make a mistake!

As an illustration:

Measure the following primary indicators: the pipe’s outer diameter (12 cm), inner diameter (9.5 cm), thickness (3.5 cm) of the battery’s outer wall, and cross-sectional area (7.8 cm).

The radiator’s volume is 14500 cm^^. Additionally, the radiator’s volume needs to be divided by the sectional area. We obtain that the necessary radiator’s length is two meters.

1. You can bring your own nuances to the design of the battery: if you often have a blow-out of pipes, freezing of water or heating fluid, water hammer, then install a special valve of the hinged type. At the right moment, you can easily restore the pressure in the system.
2. The radiator can be with any number of sections. It all depends on the type of room where it will be attached:

• in a large room (more than 30 m2), it is advisable to install a three-section radiator;
• in a bedroom, study or children"s room, a two-section radiator is enough;
• For basements, storage rooms, storerooms, where it is necessary to maintain a minimum plus temperature at any time of the year, you can put and single-section radiator.

1. Before you start working with the bolt cutter, make some space around you. Make sure that the extension cord is at a safe distance.

Expert advice: always take safety precautions when using power tools!

1. Take a large diameter pipe and cut it into 3 equal pieces.
2. In each part, make holes at an angle of 180 degrees and a diameter of 2.5cm, using a power tool with a ballet nozzle. Pay attention to the distance between the holes: they should be made by measuring 5cm from the end of the end on both sides. You will end up with a design where the holes are located at both the bottom and top of the pipe.
3. Clean pipes and sharp edges of holes with coarse-grained sandpaper to remove metal chips.
4. Next, take a thin pipe with a diameter of 20 cm and measure it in the middle. Then cut with a bolgar to get 2 pieces of 10 cm each. Weld these pieces of pipes to the construction of large pipes, so that you get a cross-shaped system of water circulation.
5. Cut thin bars and weld them to the opposite side of the structure made of large pipes. In this way, you will have a rigid and stable frame that can withstand a strong water pressure.
6. To fix the resulting frame, install the bends: one bend is welded to the inlet hole, and the second to the outlet hole.

It’s helpful to know that a plug must be placed over the bottom bend in order to check the radiator for tightness. After adding water to the upper bend, check to see if the leak persists. If it does, drain the water, dry the radiator, and seal the opening.

Common plastic water pipes can be used to create a radiator if you have steam or central heating. They are inexpensive, light-weight, and easily installed.

Welding a pipe design to a finished profile radiator will raise the temperature in the living room or apartment. These modifications need to be registered with the state utilities and coordinated with the housing and utility company’s chief engineer.

If an inexperienced specialist performs this kind of work, there’s a risk that the registers will record a drop in pressure, and this kind of "work" could result in a blowout of the residential building’s water supply system. It is essential to completely cut off the water supply and seal the inlet openings in order to prevent problems.

It’s crucial to understand that cutting homemade structures without the assistance of a specialist is never possible. The welded radiator may depressurize as a result of a sharp hydrostroke.

Practice has demonstrated that 15–16 ribs of the battery are required for every 20 m2.

This is more than sufficient to keep the temperature at +20 degrees Celsius.

Experience has shown that a 20 m2 area needs 15–16 radiator fins. This is more than sufficient to keep the temperature at +20 degrees Celsius.

See the video where the expert demonstrates how to create a heating radiator by hand:

Calculation of dimensions

Making your own pipe heating device is not too difficult. However, there is one crucial step to take in this process: accurately estimating the device’s size. Ultimately, their actions will be determined by indicators like heat output.

Required values

The computation is difficult since it depends on a few room-specific requirements. For instance, the amount of glass, the quantity of entry doors, the type of windows, and the degree of insulation in the walls, ceiling, and floor.

Since it is challenging to consider all of this, there is a more straightforward option that considers just two indicators:

1. room area.
2. ceiling height.

The heat output per 10 m², or 1 kW of heat energy, is used to choose the heating radiator. Ceiling heights shouldn’t be higher than 2.8 meters.

How does it aid in the construction of a do-it-yourself heating device? You will need to compare this with the common brand MS-140-500 in order to accomplish this. Its single section has a volume of 1.45 liters and a heat output of 160 W. What does it provide for us?

If you use a cast-iron device, you can precisely calculate the number of sections required. The total volume of coolant that will be added to a single radiator is based on the number of sections. Additionally, you can roughly adjust the pipe radiator’s volume by knowing this number.

The salient feature of the matter is that cast iron has a thermal conductivity of 46 W/m*K, while steel has 54 W/m*K. In other words, the quality of the heat output will not be impacted by a slight inaccuracy on the smaller side.

Calculation example

Typically, we’ll assume that the cast-iron heater with eight sections matches the ratio mentioned above. Its volume is 11.6 liters (8 x 1,45).

You can now determine how long the 100 mm diameter pipe will be that we’ll be using to put together our homemade battery. The pipes have a standard cross-sectional area of 708.5 mm². The length (liters are converted to mm³) is obtained by dividing the volume by the section: 116000:708,5= 1640 mm. or 1.64 meters.

The heat production won’t be significantly impacted by a slight deviation in either direction. As a result, you have 1.6 or 1.7 meters to choose from.

Why it is necessary

Perfect beauty and lethal effectiveness

Generally speaking, there are two types of situations in which you need to compute a pipe’s heat transfer coefficient:

• When calculating heating devices;
• To estimate the amount of heat loss in the pipes transporting the heat transfer medium.

Heating appliances

Which kind of heaters are the pipe’s heat-producing components?

Among the popular ones, the following are noteworthy:

• Underfloor heating;
• Towel warmers and a variety of coils;
• Registers.

Floor heating

Steel pipes are almost always used as the heating element for warm water floors (warm floors with electric heating are also available); however, steel pipe heating has become less common in recent years.

The causes are clear: installing steel pipe without threaded connections necessitates welding; steel pipe is prone to corrosion and lumen reduction over time; there is always a chance of a leak. What are seepages beneath the screed in the floor? The ground floor or basement may have a wet ceiling, and the floor may gradually deteriorate.

Because of this, using coils of metal-plastic pipe as a heating element for a warm floor was preferred until recently (with the installation of fittings outside the screed being mandatory). However, reinforced polypropylene is now increasingly frequently laid in the screed.

When installed properly, it has a low coefficient of thermal expansion and doesn’t need to be repaired or maintained for many years. There are additional plastics in use.

They now carry it out in this manner.

Advice: Make sure to allow for slight gaps to allow for pipe thermal deformation. When heated less than unreinforced polypropylene, reinforced polypropylene nevertheless pulls out.

Towel rails

Soviet-era homes are rife with steel towel dryers. They were formerly a standard component of any building project, and until the 1980s, they were invariably installed on threaded connections.

Relatively recent are the circulation taps found in elevator units, which supply heating risers that are continuously heated.

Since then, the towel dryer has been operating by repeatedly cooling and heating. contraction – expansion. How did this affect the threaded joints? Yes. began to leak.

Later, the issue of leaks was forgotten when towel dryers were integrated into heating risers and kept constantly heated. The dryer’s actual size has significantly shrunk, as has the area for effective heat transfer. Variations in the daily average temperature are the cause of this.

The bathroom coil now heats continuously, unlike before when it would only heat up when the users used hot water.

Even today, extremes put in steel dryers in restrooms.

Registers

Many industrial spaces, warehouses, and even some long-neglected stores draw attention to the multiple rows of thick pipes beneath the window, which are the source of visible heat. The register, one of the most affordable heating devices from the developed socialist era, is in front of us.

It is composed of thin tube bridges and multiple thick pipes with welded ends. The most basic version could consist of a single, thick pipe encircling the space.

It’s funny to see how much heat a contemporary aluminum radiator that takes up a similar amount of space in the room can produce compared to a steel register. There is a significant disparity in heat output.

Due to aluminum’s higher heat conductivity as well as the modern solution’s large heat exchange surface with air. Regarding aesthetics, you realize that it is completely unnecessary in the case of the speaking register.

Still, the register was an affordable and practical fix. Furthermore, it hardly ever needed maintenance or repair: even when partially clogged, the pipe kept heating up and the electric welding seam started to leak after roughly 500 sledgehammer blows.

What really needs to break?

Underfloor heating systems

When discussing a water-heated floor, it is important to note that, in contrast to its electric counterpart, metal pipes are utilized as the heating circuit, albeit their usage has been decreasing in recent times.

The gradual deterioration of steel pipes, which lowers their clearance, is the primary cause of the fall in demand for water floor heating. Furthermore, the installation technique is important because not everyone can weld seams and threaded connections have the potential to leak coolant over time. Naturally, no one will enjoy the outcome of water seeping through the screed floor system; the basement or lower floor ceiling will be inundated, and the ceiling will deteriorate over time.

For these reasons, metal-plastic coils with fittings fixed outside the screed initially replaced steel pipes in warm water floors; today, reinforced polypropylene is the preferred material.

These materials have negligible thermal expansion by nature, and they can last for many years if installed and used correctly. Other polymeric materials can also be used as an option.

Keep in mind that even with their small size, gaps for the thermal expansion of reinforced polypropylene still need to be left.

What to do if the radiators do not heat

Number of sections

Determine whether your room has enough radiator sections by doing a quick calculation. The only option if they are insufficient is to select the required heating radiators and enlarge the radiator by a few sections.

The following formula is used to determine the number of heating radiators: 16kW x 100W / 200W = 8, where 16 is the room’s area Standard heat output per square meter is 100W; approximate power of one radiator section is 200W (see the passport); and the required number of heating radiator sections is 8.

Checking the regulator

It is advisable to verify the temperature setting of the power regulator if your radiator has one. It’s unnecessary to overheat a room in the spring, and it’s possible that the regulator’s current setting is too low.

Air plug

Examine the radiator’s surface temperature; if it is extremely hot in one area and barely warm in another, an air lock is probably preventing the radiator from heating up properly.

Gurgling sounds unintelligible and another sign of an air lock. Modern batteries have a unique air-draining valve called a Maevsky valve that can be opened with a flat screwdriver. It is situated at the top of the battery. Simply unscrew the faucet a little until you hear air escaping, then wait until the water stops flowing and all the air has been expelled before screwing it back on. Remember to place something to catch the water. Call a plumber if you can’t take the chance on your own or if you can’t locate a valve like that on your radiator.

Cleaning the radiator

Dust and dirt significantly impair the battery’s ability to function properly. You are able to clean it yourself from the outside. It is best to remove the previous paint layer; if there are multiple layers, this process is required; otherwise, paint the area with a unique heat-resistant paint, ideally in a dark (black) hue. Only a plumber with the aid of specialized equipment can thoroughly clean the battery from the inside.

Decorative cover

Heat dissipation will be controlled and enhanced by the decorative screen (casing). Furthermore, there is currently a large selection of screens that will not only fit but also embellish any interior. However, you must be extremely aware of the material that goes into making it. On the other hand, a wood or plastic screen will not produce the intended effect and will not allow some heat to enter the room. Aluminum is a perfect heat conductor, so choosing an aluminum screen will make the room warmer.

Small tricks to increase the temperature output of heating batteries

Remove anything that is blocking the battery’s access to air, such as curtains; you can just lift them up onto the window sill. A standard fan can facilitate airflow. Place it so that the battery is not in the path of the flow. As a result, the cold air will be closer to the radiator and the warm air will enter the room more quickly.

You must insulate the wall behind the battery to prevent it from absorbing part of the heat. Insulation materials include aluminum foil and corrugated cardboard. Use cardboard to attach this construction to the wall and foil to attach it to the radiator. There will be outstanding heat reflection.

The use of makeshift methods is not required; there are more effective and practical ways to insulate against heat. Contemporary materials with a self-adhesive surface on one side, like polyrex, foam, or isolon, are excellent insulators and will, of course, make installation easier.

Kindly take note. The radiator and wall should be at least two centimeters apart after the insulation is adhered; otherwise, air circulation will be hindered and the temperature won’t rise.

You can just glue on foil if the distance is too great, but it’s preferable to maintain the distance and avoid taking a chance by gluing on a thick layer of insulation.

If the space between the batteries and the wall is initially less than two centimeters, the batteries may not warm up as well. In this situation, it may be wise to reconsider rebuilding the batteries because half of the heat will pass through the wall and be unable to enter the room.

In theory, installing new batteries can be avoided by using technological solutions. You can easily increase the temperature by a few degrees with the help of these little tips; if this is still too hot for you, you should definitely think about changing the batteries and external insulation. released on econet.ru

Improving air convection

Using the laws of convection is one of the easiest ways to help people understand how to manually increase the heat output of the heating pipe. Radiators in apartments are frequently blocked by furniture, shielded by ornamental boxes, or concealed by thick curtains. Even with the central heating system operating at maximum efficiency, all these components obstruct air circulation, making it challenging to attain a comfortable temperature in the space.

The area surrounding the radiator needs to be as large as possible in order to maximize air flow speed.

The air heated by the radiator will circulate freely throughout the space and heat it to the maximum extent possible given its capacity, barring any obstructions in its path.

Using an electric fan to improve convection

Owners who are aware of the physical regulations that govern how houses are built with regard to the heating of sewage water supplies are aware that the battery’s heat output is influenced by the air circulation speed. Over time, the more quickly the air in the room circulates, the more heat it can remove from the radiator.

Electric fans placed close to radiators can enhance natural convection. Choose quiet models with low electricity consumption. A specific angle between the fan and the battery is required for mounting. This easy technique works very well. It can increase the room’s temperature by a number of degrees.

Reflective screen construction

By increasing heat output, foil for heating batteries can be used as a tool to help direct the flow of heat energy into the space. Heat radiates from radiators without a reflective screen in all directions, including towards chilly external walls. The screen assists in directing the heat flow and increasing the room’s temperature.

The screen’s design is clear and user-friendly. It ought to be mounted on a spotless wall behind the radiator, with a surface area greater than the radiators. Use foil-isolon, a unique material with a foam base on one side and reflective foil covering the other, in place of foil. Use any high-quality construction adhesive to mount the screen on the wall.

Radiator blowing

The central heating radiator may eventually blow out or get clogged under hard working conditions. Poor coolant circulation and the emergence of cold sections coincide with such alterations. Blowing out the radiators is a simple and affordable way to boost heat output by clearing out air clogs and blockages.

There are various blowing techniques that employ various kinds of apparatus:

• hydraulic purging;
• cleaning with chemical solutions or soda ash;
• pneumohydroimpulsive flushing;
• individual cleaning.

You can increase the effectiveness of the radiators and get rid of the cold and discomfort in the apartment by using one or more blower methods.

It is important to keep in mind that the central heating system consists of an intricate web of pipes and radiators.

As a result, it’s best to carry out some battery flushing in tandem with your neighbors; otherwise, after a few weeks of use, the cleaned sections will start to produce less heat. Find out more about heating system flushing techniques.

You can maximize the advantages of using the central heating system and raise the heat output of any kind of radiator by adhering to easy-to-follow instructions. The most sensible way to address the issue of inadequate heat dissipation is to employ complex methods, which will enable the owner to operate heating devices in his home effectively.

Ways to increase heat output

For a country house

Adding more registers will allow the heat output to be increased.

The following methods are advised for private home owners:

• introduction of additional registers into the heating system (heat output of smooth pipe registers will be higher and more efficient when the number of elements is increased);
• Installation of convectors (a pipe with strung metal plates increases the temperature in the room);
• Regrouping of radiators by adding additional sections (this is the most expensive method, but its efficiency exceeds all expectations).

Radiator grouping with the inclusion of new sections

By lowering the loss of released heat, adding more layers of insulation improves heating efficiency as well. Utilizing insulation materials is practical both when building the house and when removing the facade, starting from the time the foundation is laid.

For new buildings

The design phase of the construction of new housing receives a lot of attention; it is during this phase that energy and heat conservation principles are considered. The project’s computation of a pipe’s heat transfer and the quantity of heat released from all of the pipes’ surfaces as well as other system components

By determining the ideal heating system parameters, which will establish the required temperature range for the space, the acquired data will enable decision-making regarding the insulation of the primary components of the main line while accounting for heat losses.

The selection of the pipe material is another crucial step in the design. Copper and steel were used to make heating mains in the past. These days, more materials that are practical and dependable are employed. Products made of polypropylene are among them; their elasticity, strength, and low weight have all been demonstrated.

Using electric or water-based floor heating is another way to raise the room’s temperature. By installing heating elements in the floor, hot water heating is made possible. For this, steel pipes were employed. However, because steel is a corrosive material, its ability to produce heat is debatable. It has been hardly used lately.

A cozy, heated floor

Reinforced polypropylene or metal-plastic elements are used as floor heating elements. Such a pipe has a high heat transfer coefficient, and if installed correctly, the main line won’t require any maintenance or repairs.

Making registers with your own hands

The design of steel registers is rather straightforward, and making them doesn’t take much expertise. Profile pipe can be used to create DIY heating radiators by almost anyone with welding machine experience. They are easier to fix in place than round ones, which makes welding work easier.

Materials and tools needed

You must restock on everything you require before beginning work. Let’s take a closer look at the requirements for the most basic three-row register.

1. Profile pipe according to the calculated parameters. Dimensions can be from 30x30x3 to 80x80x3 mm.
2. Round pipe with the same wall thickness with a diameter of 25 or 32 mm, depending on the cross-section of the profile pipe.
3. Steel sheet 3 mm thick.
4. Pipes with external or internal threads in accordance with the diameter and type of connection – 2 pcs.
5. A steel socket with an internal thread with a diameter of 15 mm and a Maevsky faucet.

1. Welding machine.
2. Drill.
3. Drill.
4. Hammer.
5. Marker or metal rod.
6. tape measure.

1. The profile pipe is cut into sections of the required length according to the drawing.
2. Round pipe cut into 4 pieces of 10 cm each.
3. Cut 6 plugs from sheet metal according to the size and shape of the profile pipe. They should be 3-5 mm smaller than the cross-section of the pipe. This will allow you to neatly hide the welded seam in the gap.
4. Pipes are laid on a flat horizontal surface strictly parallel at a distance of 10 cm. You can use two wooden beams for support. The ends are aligned in one line. Marks are made for the holes at a distance of about 5-10 cm from the edge.
5. Using a torch or a drill, the planned holes are cut out in accordance with the diameter of the crosspieces.

Work order

1. Crosspieces are fixed in their places and tack welded together at 2-3 points.
2. Having positioned the structure vertically, finally weld the crosspieces. It is recommended to first make a thin seam at low current, which will allow to fill the gaps well. Next, a thick main seam is made at increased current.
3. The internal space of the register is cleaned from metal debris and slag.
4. Plugs are applied, tacked and welded to the ends of the profile pipes.
5. Welding seams are treated. Protruding parts are knocked off with a hammer, then each seam is cleaned with a bolgar.
6. Holes in the register are drilled depending on the selected connection scheme. At the same time, it is better to place them not in the center of the ends, but slightly above or below them.
7. Connection sockets are welded to the holes.
8. Seams are cleaned and all holes except one are plugged. The register is filled with pressurized water and the quality of welding is checked. The joints must be able to withstand a pressure of up to 13 atm.
9. The outer surface is cleaned, degreased and painted with heat-resistant paint.
10. A connector is welded to the top row and a Maevsky cock is installed.

Although devices without supports are more adaptable, they are occasionally welded to the register. You can always use a stand if needed, but it weighs less and keeps the option of mounting on the wall intact.

Calculating the number of fins

Heating register calculations ought to be done even before the registers are purchased. The diameter of pipes is crucial; according to experts, pipes with a cross-sectional diameter of 3 to 8 cm are appropriate for a private residence. This choice was made because too large surfaces won’t get fully heated by a conventional heating boiler, which is limited in its ability to produce heat.

The length of one rib of the register and the heat output per meter of this length must be taken into consideration when performing calculations. For instance, one square meter of floor space can be heated by a meter pipe with a cross-section of 6 cm.

The required number of ribs should be calculated and rounded upward. The building’s unique characteristics should be considered when determining the required number of heating registers. The number of registers can be increased by 20–50%, for instance, if the building has a lot of windows and doors or if the walls are thin and poorly insulated.

Homemade radiators

After considering all the advantages and disadvantages, the owner makes a decision. The electrically welded version of pipe is advantageous due to its accessibility and ease of use. A wise craftsman gets all the equipment and supplies ready right away before beginning to make radiators. What you’ll need for the task is as follows:

• Chisel.
• Welding machine and its consumables.
• Hammer.
• Electric drill.
• Roulette.
• Wooden girders or substrates for convenience.
• Profile pipe (at least 3 mm thick) according to the measurements taken.
• Round pipe for register connections.
• Steel sheet for plugs (at least 3 mm thick).
• Maevsky cock and coupling made of steel (diameter 15mm).
• Threaded pipes for heating pipes – 2 pcs.

Welding is best done outside or in a location with specific equipment.

It’s critical to keep in mind to abide by electrical and fire safety regulations. After the area is ready and all technical details of the future heating system have been calculated, move forward with the system’s manufacturing and installation:

1. Prepare accurate drawings of the entire system with dimensions and additional explanations.
2. Cut steel pipes into parts according to the specified dimensions and quantity.
3. Cut holes for connections and bends.
4. Push the connecting tubes according to the drawings.
5. Check the correctness of assembly.
6. Weld all seams thoroughly.
7. Clean the joints.
8. Weld spigots for connection to the water supply system.
9. Install the Maevsky cock.
10. They check the radiator for leaks, if necessary, eliminate errors.
11. If necessary, paint the radiator.
12. Install the battery in place.

Verify the dependability of each heating system block after confirming that the system is operational. A handmade heating system will be significantly less expensive than an industrial one. Even in cases where the owner lacks welding expertise, hiring a master will still cost less than buying new, branded equipment.

Making your own heating batteries out of pipes is a fun do-it-yourself project that will improve the warmth of your house and enable customization to meet your individual heating requirements. You can design and build a radiator that effectively distributes heat throughout a room by using materials like copper or PEX pipes. This method gives you a sense of accomplishment as you customize the heating system in your house to your preferences and can be reasonably priced. In addition, it’s a fantastic approach to learn more about the heating system in your house so that you can maintain and improve it over time.

How to make a homemade heating battery

While branded household heating appliances are modern or retro in style and safe and efficient for daily use, not all of their purchases can be rationalized financially.

For instance, a homemade heating radiator will be a better choice for heating production and utility rooms. It will not heat any less poorly than expensive radiators painted with powder enamel, but it will not look as good. Although "self-made" radiators operate in the same way as factory radiators, it is not advised to install them as a permanent source of heating for living areas.

What is a "heating register"?

A heating register is a type of device used to circulate a heating medium that is made up of one or more steel pipes connected in a single construction.

Practice and calculations have shown the feasibility of using smooth-walled steel pipes with diameters from 32 mm to 219 mm to provide the necessary heat exchange surface area of the register. At the same time, for the purpose of compact arrangement in the heated room, the registers are made sectional or in the form of a coil. The use of steel pipes is motivated by the simplicity of their assembly with the use of welding and ensuring the tightness of welded seams. For the manufacture of heating registers it is not necessary to find new pipes of scarce grades. You can use scrap pipes left after construction and installation work at the enterprise, or find something suitable in warehouses Vtorchermeta.

Configurations of homemade heating radiators

Two types of do-it-yourself room heater registers were predetermined by the use of smooth-walled pipes:

• sectional, consisting of pipes plugged at the ends, connected by steel tubes of smaller diameter;
• serpentine, i.e. S-shaped.

It is advised to keep the distance between the outer surfaces of the pipes 5 cm greater than the diameter of the pipes from which the register is welded when joining pipes in the construction of the register. As a result, heat output rises and mutual irradiation decreases.

Sectional heating registers

A sectional register is made up of one or more pipes arranged horizontally, with the heat carrier moving from the upper pipe along its whole length to the next pipe through the connecting pipe at the other end.

Pipes for inlets and outlets are threaded, but are typically welded. Spigots for transitions attempt to weld as near to the edge as they can. The rigidity of the construction is ensured by additional crosspieces. The most common diameters of steel pipes for sectional registers are 76 to 159 mm. At least 13 atm of pressure must be applied to keep the weld seams tight.

It’s crucial! A linear increase in the heat output of the homemade battery cannot be accomplished by stacking the register pipes horizontally on top of one another. Rising air flow that has already been heated by lower pipes is less able to absorb heat from the hot coolant, which means that less heat will be released by the coolant.

Coil registers

A coil register can be conceptualized as a continuous pipe where the connecting arcs have the same diameter as the horizontal ones, as opposed to rectilinear registers, which connect large-diameter pipes with smaller spigots. Because heat exchange occurs across the entire pipe surface, the S-shape is more efficient.

There is minimal hydraulic resistance in the coil because there are no sections with coolant direction changes or intermediate pipe constrictions.

Materials for manufacturing registers

When creating a DIY heating battery, you shouldn’t blindly throw yourself at any inexpensive pipe. Definitely not appropriate for profile pipes, as the technologically welded seam will eventually leak. Steel St45 is not ideal for register pipes because they need to be properly welded.

Stainless steel homemade heating batteries are very common in homes and are used to power towel warmers in bathrooms. Experts handle the polishing of stainless steel, bending it on crude pipe benders, and crafting openwork serpentine structures with ease. Since the astute folk masters can outpace the slow factory services, artisanal production accounts for the majority of household stainless steel battery production.

This article is not yet rated. It’s loading.

how to make a radiator from pipes with your own hands

The ability to operate a welding machine and the ability to "handle" a bolgarka are prerequisites for building a homemade radiator.

Accurately estimating the size of the heat source is crucial; to do this, the needed capacity must be computed.

The homemade device’s operation

Calculation of the battery capacity

The surface area of the radiator and the material’s thermal conductivity determine its liquid heating capacity. The power is calculated using specific formulas, but a non-specialist may find it difficult to work through complex equations. A cast-iron radiator can be used as a starting point if you intend to heat residential buildings and do not require precise measurements.

One section of a cast-iron radiator, for instance, has a volume of 1.45 liters and a power of 160 W. A pipe heater requires several pipes with a 14.5 liter liquid capacity in order to replace a typical cast-iron device with ten sections.

The standard states that one KW of heater capacity is needed in residential buildings for every square meter of space. When calculating the system for homes with inadequate thermal insulation, this value needs to be raised.

Materials required

To avoid scurrying around looking for the lost change, it’s best to get all the supplies and equipment ready right away. The following supplies are needed for a 14.5-liter DIY radiator:

• a carbon steel pipe about 2 meters long and 10-12 cm in diameter with a wall thickness of 3.5 mm;
• steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3.5 mm for end caps;
• A water pipe for the water passages;
• two bends with a diameter of 2.5 cm;
• fittings for stiffening;
• threaded connections for tapping into the system.

Although materials can be purchased for less money at scrap metal collection locations, new smooth steel pipes are the better option for permanent housing. Using pipes larger than 12 centimeters in diameter for the registers is a dumb idea since it will increase the heat carrier’s volume, the boiler’s workload, and the cost of heating now.

Manufacturing technology

Three identical sections of a two-meter steel pipe are cut, and two holes are punched in each section to connect the flow tubes. The holes should be positioned at different ends at a 180-degree angle to one another and 5 cm from the end.

The steel sheets are then cut into round blanks to cover the ends in the following step. The diameter of the covers and the pipe holes’ sizes should match. The elements for the registers are covered by blanking plugs that are welded to the ends.

Cones for the movement of hot water are created by welding tubes that supply the heating medium to the holes. The pipes are connected with fittings to give the construction strength. Additional safety bridges are provided in larger registers. It is imperative that the spacing between the segments be 0.5 cm larger than the primary pipe’s diameter.

The strength of the homemade radiators made of pipes must be examined after the welding is finished. The upper opening is pressurized with water to fully fill the device prior to the test, and the lower opening is closed. The battery is installed in the system if there are no leaks. Legs are welded on or brackets are supplied for floor mounting. The registers in natural circulation heating systems are installed with a small incline to facilitate the movement of coolant.

The construction process is the same for a ladder-style or coil-style bathroom radiator. Larger diameter pipes make no sense for a towel dryer; the less girth of the pipe, the more crossbars the dryer is designed with. You will obtain a robust and useful gadget if you choose copper pipes over steel pipes.

Bathtub coil

It is strongly advised against learning this challenging trade on heating devices if you have never operated a welding machine. It is best to leave the welding of these homemade radiators to an expert, even if you truly want to install them yourself.

Making your own heating batteries out of pipes is a rewarding and doable do-it-yourself project. This method may lower expenses while enabling homeowners to customize their heating systems to meet their unique requirements. With so many customization options at your disposal, you can create a system that perfectly complements both the functional and aesthetic needs of your house.

Throughout the procedure, accuracy and safety are crucial. To avoid leaks, it’s critical to make sure that all connections are tight and that the materials being used are appropriate for high pressures and temperatures. Prior to beginning the project, seeking professional advice can help you steer clear of common pitfalls and make sure your system complies with local building codes.

Furthermore, it is impossible to overstate how satisfying it is to construct something as important as a heating system. This project fosters a sense of accomplishment in addition to offering the chance to learn about heating and plumbing. Furthermore, by including a custom feature made to match your home’s unique heating requirements, it might raise its value.

In the end, creating your own heating batteries out of pipes is a terrific way to improve the heating efficiency of your house and give it a unique look. Though it takes some preparation and effort, the outcome is a heating solution that is practical, economical, and something you can be proud of.

Video on the topic

Homemade radiator for space heating!

Cheap heating radiator

Register made of profiled pipe

Registers from prof. pipes

Simple battery with your own hands.Register for garage heating #building garage #production #register

Heating register with your own hands. DIY!