Bake with a bread camera: description, principle of work, do -it -yourself masonry, author’s order

Picture yourself entering a warm, welcoming kitchen that smells like freshly made bread. Now, with a bread oven in your own house, you can elevate that experience. We’ll explore the world of bread cameras in this post; these are special ovens made just for baking bread. We’ll look at how they function, the fundamental ideas that underpin them, and how you can make your own with basic masonry skills.

In essence, a bread camera is a tiny, dedicated oven meant mainly for bread baking. In contrast to bulky and inconvenient traditional ovens, bread cameras are small and effective. They are made to replicate the exact conditions found in a professional bakery, including uniform heat distribution and high humidity.

What is the operation of a bread camera? It functions fundamentally on the basis of radiant heat. Either an electric heating element or a wood fire produces heat inside the oven. The bread is then baked uniformly on all sides thanks to the even distribution of heat throughout the oven chamber. A steam injection system is another common feature of bread cameras, which aids in maintaining a soft crust and enables proper bread rising.

You may be asking yourself, is it possible to construct my own bread camera? Yes, is the response! You can build a basic but efficient bread oven in your backyard with a little perseverance and basic masonry skills. With a few simple steps and easily accessible materials, you can easily build a working oven that bakes delicious homemade bread.

When starting your bread camera project, remember that safety comes first. Make sure you wear the proper protective gear and take all necessary safety precautions when working with bricks, mortar, or other materials. Furthermore, give your oven design considerable thought, taking into account elements like size, insulation, and ventilation.

To sum up, bread cameras are a fun way to improve your baking skills and eat freshly made bread anytime you want. You can start a fulfilling journey into the world of artisanal bread baking by learning the guiding principles and taking the initiative to build your own.

Description	A bread camera is a specialized oven designed for baking bread. It typically features a stone or brick floor and walls to retain heat and provide even baking.
Principle of Work	The bread camera works by utilizing radiant heat from the heated stone or brick floor and walls. This radiant heat ensures that the bread bakes evenly, resulting in a crispy crust and soft interior.
Do-it-yourself Masonry	To build a bread camera yourself, you"ll need fireproof bricks or stones for the floor and walls. Lay them in a pattern that maximizes heat retention and stability, ensuring proper insulation to maintain consistent baking temperatures.
Author"s Order	For a personalized bread camera, consider consulting a professional mason or oven builder. They can tailor the design to your specific needs and ensure proper construction for optimal baking results.

What is HC and how is the difference from the oven?

Since the bread chamber and oven have an equal impact on the products, HC is sometimes referred to as the "oven in black." This is justified by the fact that soot forms when smoke gases pass through it. However, soot does not form in HC, just like in a correctly folded Russian furnace, because the material fades during the furnace, leaving the walls spotless at all times.

Furthermore, because the oven’s temperature is set by the smoke gases that pass by it and warm the burning smoke inside, the temperature in the bread chamber is significantly higher than that of the oven.

The camera retains heat longer than an oven because of its maximum temperature, and its 80–200 degree range makes it ideal for cooking or resting for five to eight hours.

HC operating mode

There are just two ways to use the breadcase:

Firewood in the furnace undergoes thermal decomposition, or pyrolysis, under the influence of high temperatures. This process releases pyrolysis gases, which include carbon and hydrogen.

As a result of their mixture with air, both substances react chemically with oxygen to form:

• water vapor (H2O);
• carbon monoxide (CO);
• carbon dioxide (CO2).

Because of inadequate air mixing and fuel thermal degradation, half of the flammable pyrolysis gases inside the firebox are used in the oxidation process.

A cold chimney is caused by a hot mixture of smoke gases moving down it, which is why water vapor collects on its walls along with carbon and other elements, some of which form acids. Water evaporates as the chimney warms up, and carbon either burns out or turns into soot depending on how hot and how much air it is exposed to.

All of these processes take place in HC, but because of the high temperature, intense heating, and better air and pyrolysis gas mixing, there is very little condensate loss. After that, the condensate dries quickly and the carbon soil settles on the walls.

Because of this, the walls of the bread chamber are always free of soot and acid residue; however, this is only possible in situations in which the proper organization and thorough mixing of flue gases occurs.

The inner surface of the HC walls is too hot to cook at 300–400 degrees after the conflict ends. It takes 1-3 hours for the camera to "reach" the desired temperature, at which point the temperature drops by roughly 200 degrees. Following this, the bread chamber reaches its operating temperature and is ready to be filled with goods that require heat treatment.

Smells are released into the room much less when HC operates in the oven mode because the chimney serves as a ventilation system, eliminating moisture buildup that would otherwise occur in the oven. The Russian stove produces a similar result, but they prepare the firewood in the firebox rather than after it burns.

Where is the bread chamber?

Because HC is also a gas burning location, it is situated above the firebox, where the temperature of the smoke gases is at its highest point. Without this, carbon cannot be oxidized. If there is a cast-iron plate covering the furnace, HC is set up on its side, with the breadcrough serving as a smoke cash as well.

Simultaneously, the bread chamber situated above the firebox has a much higher efficiency because it receives heat from the furnace’s rising thermal radiation in addition to the oxidation of free carbon and hydrogen in the smoke that passes through it. Additionally, the smoke burns more effectively and retains heat longer for cooking at higher temperatures in this area of the furnace.

Combination with different types of furnaces

Every kind of firebox suggests a unique way to operate, as well as a unique mix and temperature of smoke gases.

There are five different kinds of furnaces:

1. Subanaries.
2. Golden wood.
3. Golsniki coal.
4. Fireplace.
5. With a hob

Formal

The Russian furnace is the most notable example of a fifth furnace. Its primary benefit is more hot burning, and firewood is burned directly on a brick floor (under). This is because the majority of the air enters the combustion zone without going through the fuel, maintaining the fuel’s temperature and not interfering with the pyrolysis process.

The base furnace’s drawback is that it burns out more quickly than groundwear and gallop furnaces due to the less efficient mixing of pyrolysis gases with air.

In addition, the efficiency of fifth combustion directly depends on the design of the firebox – if it implements the supply of secondary air (BB) slightly above the combustion zone, then there will be the most complete and hot combustion of pyrolysis gases.

The efficiency of a furnace will be low if the secondary air is insufficient, enters at an inconvenient location, or is too cold to facilitate effective combustion.

As a result, proper floor furnaces are significantly more complex than golst, and they also place a greater emphasis on the arrangement of smoke and air gases. Incorrect firebox composition will prevent the HC above it from efficiently burning the smoke, which will cause the walls to start to accumulate soot and make the preparation of such a cell unpleasant. When the firebox is folded properly, smoke gases are effectively released into the bread chamber, resulting in clean walls and faster heating.

Colossonic wood

Because even grave errors in stove layout do not significantly impair firewood combustion, this kind of furnace has grown to be the most popular. The primary disadvantage of the grates is that they allow cold air to enter the active combustion zone (pyrolysis), which decreases the process’s efficiency.

However, this also has a benefit in that as the air through the firewood heats up, it is heavily mixed with the gases produced during pyrolysis, increasing the amount of thermal energy released and improving the efficiency of oxidation.

However, restricting the supply of heated secondary air and primary air above the firewood burning zone allows the gallop furnace to operate at its most efficient level. In this instance, the active combustion zone is only marginally cooled by the primary air, and the mixture burns like a fifth fire thanks to the secondary air.

The breadcase is able to handle smoke from any gallop furnace that is operating normally, but the process is more efficient when heated explosives are available. If the stoker selects the incorrect furnace operating mode or the firebox is folded incorrectly, HC will either constantly be wet from the low temperature or will not heat up to a normal temperature from the smoke moving too quickly.

Golsnic coal

The only firebox type that can effectively burn coal is this one, but even a gallop furnace for firewood is not like this in terms of design or materials used. Because the coal burns at a higher temperature than the air supply, the resulting flame won’t be able to sustain the necessary fuel temperature, which will cause the pyrolysis process to end quickly.

The oxidation of pyrolysis gases within the fuel layer is aided by air passing through a layer of coal, maintaining a temperature that is consistently high enough for the thermal breakdown of hydrocarbons.

The quality of the furnace and the amount of air that is present affect coal much more, and the materials that are released into the chimney during coal combustion are far more hazardous. It is not a good idea to connect HC to the coal furnace because the condensate falling during coal is far more aggressive and has a stronger, unpleasant odor than the firewood formed during the burning of firewood.

Fireplace

Because of their excessive air flow, which cools both the combustion zone and the pyrolysis gases, traditional fireplaces—that is, those without a door—are less efficient heat generators than any other kind of firebox. The negative effect on the camera’s walls and the products within will be more obvious if you place HC above the fireplace because it will condense several times more than it would over the tops of other species.

Modern fireplaces are an exception, as they have a glass door installed and multiple valves controlling the air supply. The majority of them are standard wood rollers with glass doors installed in place of cast iron, but every procedure is the same. As a result, it makes sense to install the "oven in the black" on them, and the HC won’t perform any worse than it would on a scorch or gallop furnace.

With a hob

Since the hobby cast-iron plate, which serves as the radiator in this instance, can absorb up to 25% of the thermal energy, such furnaces are typified by low temperature gases that pass through the high-of-high.

Because of this, setting up an efficient gas burning system is difficult, and a bread chamber should only be used during the worst frosts. HC will function as a traditional chimney in the event that you drown with only half of a laying of firewood.

A half launch of firewood will cause HC to become saturated with condensate if the stove is to be saved and switched to the "slow combustion" mode. This mode of operation is sufficient for one to two months, after which the condensate soaks the bread chamber’s lining to such an extent that cooking with it becomes impossible due to an overpowering, disagreeable stench.

Do you need to go lining?

There are many advantages to the furnace lining, even in wood furnaces, as it shields the walls from excessive heat. The lifespan of a stove is significantly longer than that of a stove without a cover made of brick or bream.

Nevertheless, because of the significant temperature difference, the bricks used for the walls and lining of the furnace expand and contract differently, even in cases where the same brick is utilized for both purposes.

With firewood inside the furnace, the temperature ranges from 800 to 1000 degrees, and it rarely rises above 400 degrees on the inside of the walls. The temperature differential increases with a firebox because it can reach 100–1300 degrees next to the fuel that is burning.

Due to the fact that the case and furnace walls expand differently in the appropriately folded furnace—by 1-2 mm—they are kept apart by basalt cardboard or another type of heat insulator. The bread chamber will move in relation to the case walls or the firebox because it is an extension of the furnace, even in the absence of temperature expansion.

Furthermore, the temperature of the gases going through HC is higher than 500 degrees, which means that the lining will extend their useful life.

Why hc is overgrown with soot and smells unpleasant?

As smoke passes through the inner surface of the bread chamber walls, condensed water vapor will remain on the cold material as long as the temperature does not rise above the dew point, which is a specific value dependent on air pressure. Distillates are the products of this process, which is known as distillation.

Depending on the temperature and velocity of the passing gases, the liquid’s drying accelerates and the loss of condensate stops after it passes through the dew point. Condensation loss is low and fuel dries at the fastest rate in furnaces with properly arranged fireboxes and stove-shaped fuel that does not use "long burning," or smoldering fuel.

Much condensation forms and it dries slowly in furnaces with an incorrectly folded fireplace and where the stoker refuses to follow the firebox’s proper procedure in an attempt to achieve fictitious savings by prolonging the burning at the expense of the flame’s temperature.

When this occurs, a liquid that comprises different combustion products in addition to water is absorbed into the lining’s bricks, binding their clay solution. These substances persist inside the bricks even after the water is lost.

He has tar on the chilly lining walls in addition to water, and the latter dries faster than the former due to its disagreeable smell. This leads to the formation of an unpleasant-smelling material that gets absorbed into the masonry and does not have time to dry out at the firebox’s insufficiently high temperature.

Because the bricks and masonry solution of the bread chamber are not heated enough, creosote and other distillates do not have time to dry, resulting in a strong pressure odor in the HC furnaces.

The production of new distillates will be drastically decreased if you refuse to burn firewood in a "economical" manner and instead use the proper firebox; however, it is unclear how long it will take for the absorbed substances to dry out. Certain furnaces have bricks and masonry that are so impregnated that distillacs smell even after a few years of using the proper firebox.

Combination with heating shields

The temperature of the smoke that emerges from HC is similar to that of the smoke that emerges from the furnace because it simultaneously functions as a chamber for burning pyrolysis gases. However, heated gases with low density always strive upward, so no issues are seen where the smoke channel goes up after the HC and there is sufficient traction.

The resistance to the smoke’s movement increases dramatically if it must travel straight downhill, increasing the chimney thrust’s need. As a result, the kind of heating shield (rude, rude) directly affects how effective the furnace with HC is.

"Dutch"

The term "Dutch" has become firmly established for both heating shields of the same type and stoves with vertical chimney channels. Such heating devices have a very high resistance to gases as a result of the need to somehow stop hot smoke rising through the first channel.Even so, the smoke is still much lighter than air smoke in the second channel.

The still warm, or light gas of the fourth channel, is then pushed by the smoke rising through the third channel. The resistance of the chimney drops after it is warmed up, but it is still significantly greater than that of the "Swedes" or domed (large) heating appliances.

The "Dutch" seldom warm below the level of serpans or grates, which presents another issue because the stronger the channel is to lower it, the greater the resistance to the movement of the smoke. Thus, it will be challenging to create an efficient stove with HC and a Gollande-style heating shield that warms the floor; this will call for a high-qualification stove that is knowledgeable about channel systems and adept at organizing gas flow.

The issue is that only a seasoned stove maker, examining the "Dutch" instructions with HC, can predict how it will function beforehand since she notices all errors and "underwater stones" that a novice stove item does not notice and, additionally, an average user stoves.

"Swede"

Stoves and rude horizontal channels, whose resistance to gases is significantly lower than that of the "Swede," were designated with the term "Swede." This kind of heating device’s primary disadvantage is that it isn’t meant to heat anything below the firebox’s top, or in our case, the top of the bread chamber.

The stove is far less efficient and comfortable than the one that heats all the way to the bottom because its heating shield only heats the space between 70 and 100 cm above the floor.

Cap

One and two-cape furnaces are the most efficient and comfortable among the heating devices because they have the least amount of resistance to the movement of smoke and the ability to warm up to the bottom.

Although they offer floor warming, they have two major disadvantages:

• higher requirements for the qualifications of the stove, which will build caps;
• foci of accumulation of carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide with the possibility of a breakthrough through the cracks in the masonry.

In this scenario, the gases burned will occur throughout the first cap, even though they won’t be very effective. The firebox and bread chamber may be parts of the first cap. The "Russian warmth" Podgorodnikov confirms that the second cap can be found underneath the first, as well as on any side of it.

Anyway, the uniformity of warming up rude ones is much higher and the resistance to the movement of gases in the capacious furnaces is much lower than even in the "Swedes".

The igniting of the cold furnace happens much more easily than with channel analogues because all other processes are exactly the same, even if the first cap is separated from HC with a short chimney segment and gas burning in it.

Lesser

Since a stove’s stove is typically placed below the firebox, the chimney gases must descend first after passing HC, which has an adverse effect on the furnace’s cold launch.

Furthermore, even in a heated state, the bed increases the gas resistance because it is, in fact, the channel—albeit with some cap features—but it also provides heating from the gender itself. The sunbed is therefore not compatible with the HC above the firebox, but it is compatible with the camera mounted on the firebox’s side.

Design

You must modify pre-made furnaces with a bread camera projects to fit the specific needs of your home because they aren’t always appropriate for a given one. In order to redo the project, you typically need to know not only what is in the furnace and how it functions, but also what shape each component of the heating device should be in.

How to supply secondary air?

More thermal energy is released when fuel burns more efficiently thanks to secondary air, but there are two requirements that must be met for this benefit to be fully realized:

• the feed above the thermal decomposition (pyrolysis) fuel zone;
• Minimum cooling of smoke gases.

One of the easiest solutions is to supply air from one of the walls—say, the back—through the gap between the furnace’s lining and main masonry. Such a channel efficiently heats the air, minimizing the amount of cooling of the flue gases because the back of the lining brick is heated to 400–700 degrees during the furnace.

The holes in the lining bricks allow secondary air to enter the furnace; multiple small holes are better than one large hole because they improve the mixing of smoke and explosives.

One of the heating furnace models created in the sketch serves as an illustration of how secondary air is supplied in accordance with this scheme:

Picture 1: The BB feeding channel situated between the furnace wall and lining.

Picture 2: openings for secondary air supply

Overlapping the channel in photo three stops secondary air from flowing into the bread chamber uncontrollably.

How to choose the size?

The location of the bread chamber and the overall size of the furnace determine its size. Because the two components of the furnace are related to one another and not to the external masonry because they have different rates of temperature expansion, you can make the bread chamber larger by increasing the size of the firebox.

The following should be considered when determining the ideal height for the bread chamber: when firewood is burned to perfection, the hottest flame is produced between 80 and 100 cm above the servant or grate. In order to achieve optimal gas burning and the maximum release of thermal energy, the furnace and HC’s combined height should be about 10 cm higher than this parameter.

How to make a transition from a furnace to HC?

The most effective way to mix air and pyrolysis gases is in the Russian furnace’s firebox, which has an upper section where secondary air is supplied. Nevertheless, even then, the mixture that passes through the smoke channels is not uniform. Consequently, in order to maximize the efficiency of the gases’ burning, the proper transition from the furnace to the HC should not only transport the gases but also mix them.

The best at doing this are:

• smooth narrowing of the transition channel;
• transition from one large in several small channels.

Such mixing can be achieved with HC positioned vertically, that is, above the firebox, by employing a catalyst made of chamotis bricks arranged like grates.

By connecting the firebox to a bread chamber that is mounted on the side, one hole can be divided into multiple smaller ones using the same principle. The most important factor is that the furnace’s power is matched by the total section of all of the holes.

Additionally, less bricks and masonry will overheat from the area from which they are made the larger the total section of all channels; therefore, for a furnace with a capacity of 3-5 kW, the ideal area of the openings is 500–700 cm2. A hole (hylo) the size of two bricks (roughly 24 by 24 cm) is made in the furnaces without a catalyst and HC.

How to separate HC from the walls of the furnace and why should this be done?

The chamotis brick, which the firebox is lined with, has a temperature expansion parameter that is significantly larger than that of red brick, as we have already mentioned. As a result, the firebox and the main masonry can be bonded together, or even the solution can be glue together.

Use cardboard made of basalt, which can withstand temperatures up to a thousand degrees, to keep the furnace and the masonry apart.

In the event that basalt cardboard is unavailable, regular packaging will work fine; however, it will burn after the first clan, leaving a gap between the lining and outer wall that will act as an insulator between the two pieces of masonry.

How to organize gases to organize properly?

Since burning smoke gases is HC’s primary purpose, it is formed like the letter "g" to improve smoke and air mixing. Furthermore, it partially complies with the cap principle because the height of the camera is higher than the height of the channel that leads to the chimney or cap.

Hot gases first rise beneath the chamber’s roof, then descend through the transition hole and exit HC when their temperature at least somewhat decreases in comparison to the incoming stream of smoke. In this configuration, turbulence is created that mixes the passing gases, increasing their homogeneity and triggering the processes of carbon oxidation, which burns the carbon and lessens the amount of soot that accumulates in the chimney.

Making a symmetrical yield of smoke on different sides of the furnace is another way to improve the efficiency of mixing and burning gases, but this works best with furnaces that have channels or caps on both sides. By adding more catalyst, such as vertical jumpers, you can also create a single, large hole by dividing the input flow into smaller streams through mixing.

There is no consent for the portion of the HC output hole that is situated between the furnace masters. Some contend that in order to prevent overheating of the hole and the channel behind it, the cross section should be the same since the temperature of the smoke exiting is only slightly lower than Hale’s. Some argue that in order to accelerate the gases on the cap and channels and more evenly heat them, the hole’s cross section needs to be lowered.

How to block a bread chamber?

The bread camera’s width and wall thickness are the primary issues that all those who cover it deal with. Since the HC brick is wider than the typical chamotis brick and the walls are arranged "on the rib," or by a quarter, it is not feasible to build another brick on top of the HC brick because it is shorter.

As a result, they either create a three-row roof or use chamotte slabs, the idea of which is shown in these pictures:

Picture 4: The first row serves as support and is arranged in the shape of a half-brick.

In Photo 5, the second row is similarly stacked, but it only uses half of the length of each brick from the row before it.

Picture 6: A single, sturdy masonry is formed when the third row is stacked and ligates the second.

The bread chambers that are just marginally wider than a single chamotis brick can be used with this technique. Use chamotte slabs if there is a noticeable increase in width.

Overlapping a chimney or cap over a breadcase

It is not possible to lay the bottom of the canal or cap over the firebox and HC due to their much larger temperature expansion than the furnace’s main laying. Doing so would quickly destroy the masonry and allow smoke to escape into the room.

To block the bread chamber, there are three methods:

• a three -row overlap, built according to the example described above;
• creation of an arched arch;
• Metal frame of corners.

A three-row overlap’s primary benefit is stability at high temperatures because it is constructed of the same brick as the main masonry, which means that its temperature expansion is consistent. The construction’s complexity is its drawback.

Although the arched vault’s construction is considerably more intricate than a three-row overlap, non-carrier walls or partitions can be installed on it.

Sand or finely broken red brick are used to level the area above the arch; brick is preferred if a wall or partition is to be installed above the arch.

The metal frame is much simpler, but even at 300–400 degrees, it expands much more than the brick and pantry combined, progressively dismantling the furnace. As a result, no capable stove will ever cut corners in the zone, not even at a temperature that is somewhat high.

Where to get guesses or finished projects?

If all you need is guidance, we suggest that you read through the forums where people talk about these kinds of stoves in great detail.

Among these forums, the most well-known are:

1. www.forumhouse.ru.
2. forum.stovemaster.ru.
3. www.Stroimdom.Com.UA.
4. PCENTR.by/forum.
5. Stroiteli.Info/Archive.
6. hochusebedom.ru.
7. forum.anastasia.ru.
8. Mastergrad.Com.

For a completed project made to your specifications, get in touch with renowned stove masters like the Igor Kuznetsov team. The sequence of completed brick fireplace and furnace projects, including corners, with a lounger and a bread camera, is available on the same website. Oven master contacts are also available here.

Open a furnace with a breadcase

We would like to draw your attention to our guess—which is based on the author’s personal experience—of a stove with a breadcase.

Take note! Although the website offers rough models that illustrate the basic idea of operation, the stove actually needs to be designed for particular circumstances.

Is it possible to redo the order yourself?

Working with guns is a great fit for the Sketchup program, which is available for download on the manufacturer’s official website. Similar programs exist elsewhere. Furthermore, you must comprehend the functions and procedures of the furnace because any modifications to its design will be impacted by the state of the heating apparatus.

Download the stove diagram from the sketches or other programs and modify the order if you are comfortable with your level of knowledge.

To properly alter the drawing, you must first ascertain what precisely is wrong, why it is wrong, and what needs to be changed. For instance, you may wish to enlarge the heating shield because you are dissatisfied with its current size. If the panel has channels, then more channels will result in less traction, and more channels with larger sizes will result in less efficient heat selection.

It is not sufficient to simply increase the heating shield; you also need to modify the firebox to accommodate the increased heat transfer. This is because increasing the area of the rude ones’ warming surface will simultaneously lower the temperature of the smoke at its exit, which may cause condensation.

As a result, instead of trying to alter the drawing and begin setting up the furnace right away, read as much literature as you can, paying particular attention to works published between the middle of the 20th and the end of the IXX centuries. Grum-Himailo and Podgorodnikov’s work should be given particular attention as it provides a detailed description of the principles of furnaces and the processes that occur within them.

Additionally, realize that the furnace, folded by the project with your modifications, will need to be redone multiple times due to your inexperience, which will cause you to overlook numerous crucial details.

Fire safety regulatory documents

If you choose to install such a stove yourself, first ensure that the project satisfies the fire safety regulations outlined in these documents as well as the requirements of your home:

1. SP 7.13130.2013.
2. Memo. Stone heating SNiP 41-01-03.
3. Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of 16.09.2020 N 1479 (Ed. from 21.05.2021) "On the approval of the rules of the fire regime in the Russian Federation".
4. Code of Rules SP 7.13130.2013 Heating, ventilation and heating. Fire safety requirements.
5. GOST R 53321-2009. The apparatus of heat -generating, operating on various types of fuel. Fire safety requirements. Test methods.
6. GOST R 52133-2003. Fireplaces for residential and public buildings. General technical conditions.

Given that studying these documents is time-consuming despite being necessary, here are the key points about fire safety:

1. The distance from the wall of the furnace to the wall of the house made of combustible material should exceed 250 mm (200 mm if the wall is protected by something). You can separate the heating device from the wall with bricks. If the walls of the heating device are folded by a quarter (65 mm), then the distance must be doubled due to a stronger heating.
2. The space between the chimney (chimney) and any combustible overlap material should be filled with brick cutting or any other non -combustible material, and the thickness of the cutting should exceed the thickness of the floor by at least 7 cm.
3. The distance from the furnace door to the nearest wall should exceed 125 cm.
4. The minimum distance from the floor to the bottom of any chimney is 25 cm, to the bottom.
5. The distance from the wooden ceiling to the top of the furnace (overlapping of 2 layers) should exceed 52.5 cm for the furnaces of the periodic furnace and 150 cm for prolonged burning furnaces. If the overlap of the furnace is 3 layers, then the distance is 35 and 100 cm. Plassing (10 mm) or upholstery with drywall and steel sheet reduce the distance by 25-30%.
6. The smoke pipe should rise above the grates or a drow by at least 5 m, and at least 50 cm above the roof skate.

Even though you have given the furnace master construction authority, it will still be beneficial to review these documents because you will bear the consequences if he violates any fire regulations.

The maximum penalty is several years in prison and the possibility of losing your home or loved ones.

How to fold a stove with your own hands?

Since building a brick stove of any other kind is similar to the main steps of laying a furnace with HC, we advise you to carefully read these articles:

1. DIY Kuznetsov bake.
2. DIY bath stove.

We will then discuss a few subtleties that novice stovers may not always be aware of.

The correct attachment of the doors

The room is kept apart from the furnace’s smoke gases by the doors to the bread and fuel chambers, which are exposed to high temperatures. If they are incorrectly fixed, they will either hang out soon and cause air leaks and smoke gases to be released into the room, or they will destroy the masonry and cause the same problems.

The primary issue with attaching these components is that their temperature expands more quickly than that of brick, increasing the size of the door and its fastener components.

There are two primary techniques for fastening the doors:

• using wire or sheet metal embedded;
• On a tin box.

If you can prevent a perenca, either method works well in furnaces with linings. If the firebox is unlined, then the only option is to install on a tin box.

Which door to choose for HC?

There is a tiny air leak because the fuel’s standard, low-cost cast-iron doors are closed beneath the leaf. This is fine for the furnace because it improves gases and supplies oxygen from various angles, but it is inappropriate for the bread chamber because even a tiny bit of cold air will slow down the burning process.

As a result, producers provide unique sealed doors with a rounded upper portion specifically designed for bread chambers.

How to ensure temperature control?

It is best to set up a way to check the heating of HC ahead of time, as the ideal temperature to place goods for baking in the bread chamber is between 150 and 250 degrees. The most practical is the bimetallic thermometer, for instance, which has a rod length of 20–30 cm and a measurement mode of up to 500 degrees.

Install it by following these steps:

1. In the lower bricks of the grain of the bread chamber, drill the Mr. The diameter of both holes is 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the rod.
2. In the bricks of the outer masonry, drill a hole for the rod and body.
3. After erecting the furnace, glue the thermometer into the hole on the high -temperature mastic.
4. If you do not want to drill chamotis brick so as not to weaken it, then place the thermometer stem at a distance of 2-3 mm from the bottom of the grain of the bread chamber.

In this article, we"ll delve into the concept of a bread oven, exploring its description, how it works, and how you can build one yourself. A bread oven, also known as a bread camera, is a traditional method of baking bread that dates back centuries. It consists of a chamber where bread is placed to bake, typically using wood fire or other heating methods. The principle of its operation is simple: the heat generated within the chamber cooks the bread evenly, resulting in deliciously crusty loaves. Building your own bread oven can be a rewarding DIY project, allowing you to enjoy the process of baking bread in a more traditional and authentic way. We"ll guide you through the steps of constructing one, sharing tips and insights to help you along the way. So, if you"re ready to elevate your baking game and experience the joys of homemade bread straight from your own oven, let"s get started on this flavorful journey together!

Drying and the first fireboxes

Once the stove and chimney are in place, use a few pieces of paper to test if there is a thrust. If the paper burns intensely and the smoke exits the chimney, everything is normal; if it enters the room, something went wrong and the furnace won’t have good traction.

After ensuring adequate traction, open all of the doors and valves. Then, shut off the oven for one to two months to allow the solution’s pantry to fully dry and the masonry to take on the role of a fortress.

When she fully recovers, you should reintroduce her to the community. Burn no more than 25% of the entire laying of firewood in the first firebox, no more than 50% in the second, and only the entire volume of firewood (for this temperature) in the third firebox. Check for cracks in the masonry, smoke coming from it, and whether the furnace’s body is heated evenly throughout each clan.

How to use HC?

You can use a bread chamber to bake food for any proto-shoulder, even if it’s incomplete, if you have a thermometer installed. Just pay attention to the temperature indicator’s indications. If you lack such a sensor, load the products two to three hours after the fuel is burned and use HC only after the flogging with a full firewood laying.

If you’re not sure if the camera has cooled down, open it and toss in a tiny pinch of flour at the bottom. If smoke appears, it indicates that the temperature is still very high and that you should wait for 30 to 60 minutes.

Let products in by opening the HC door for the shortest amount of time. If you must lay products down two or three times for whatever reason, shut the door right away after each bookmark. Assess the products’ readiness by checking their time in the breadcase. You will need to experiment a lot and gain experience to be able to decide what to extract outside and when, but the glazing door and thermometer can help a lot.

Useful videos

We recommend watching this video to learn how to sculpt a bread stove from the inside as well as how to make a clay solution for laying a furnace:

Another in-depth video that describes a smooth stove in two parts using a bread camera.

A bread oven can be a fun and useful addition to your kitchen when you buy one. It provides not just a homey, rustic charm, but also the satisfaction of making your own bread. A bread oven, also called a bread camera, is a device that bakes bread in the perfect way by retaining moisture and distributing heat evenly thanks to its straightforward yet efficient design.

The idea underlying a bread camera is very simple. Usually, it is composed of a chamber constructed from heat-retaining materials like brick or clay. The bread is placed inside to bake once the chamber has reached the proper temperature, which is typically achieved by a wood fire. The oven’s thick walls effectively retain heat, ensuring that the bread cooks through to a crisp crust.

A fulfilling do-it-yourself project is creating your own bread camera. Even though it might seem difficult at first, anyone with a basic understanding of construction can complete the process with careful planning and guidance. Ensuring adequate insulation and ventilation is crucial in order to sustain a constant temperature during the baking procedure. There are a lot of resources that provide step-by-step instructions for building your own bread oven, such as books and online tutorials.

Custom bread ovens are the specialty of artisans and craftsmen, for those who would rather leave the construction to the professionals. These experts can customize the layout to match your preferences and available space, guaranteeing that your bread camera will not only perform well but also enhance the visual appeal of your house.

Video on the topic

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Stove 4 project.5×3.5 brick. Order, explanations for the customer.

Bread chamber of double -circuit fireplaces (mini Russian stove). Full testing and cooking