A collector for heating a house with your own hands: diagrams, varieties, installation

Efficient heating of your home not only keeps you warm in the winter but also saves energy and money. A novel approach that is becoming more and more well-liked is heating with a collector system. With the help of this system, your living areas will be warm thanks to solar power. This post will explore the world of do-it-yourself home heating collectors, including types, diagrams, and installation instructions.

In essence, a collector for home heating works as a solar energy collector, gathering solar radiation and turning it into heat. The purpose of these collectors is to gather solar radiation and convert it into a medium, like water or air, which is then distributed throughout the house to create warmth. Through the use of this renewable energy source, homeowners can lessen their dependency on conventional fossil fuel-powered heating systems considerably.

There are various types of collectors available for home heating, and each has pros and cons of its own. A typical variety is the flat-plate collector, which is made up of an absorber plate with a dark color that is covered with a glass or plastic cover. This design is appropriate for both residential and commercial applications because it maximizes solar absorption while minimizing heat loss.

The evacuated tube collector is another well-liked choice. It is made up of rows of clear glass tubes with absorber plates inside of them. These tubes are an excellent option for areas with less consistent sunlight because of their high efficiency of capturing solar energy, even in cloudy or overcast conditions. Evacuated tube collectors also provide superior insulation, which improves performance even more.

Careful planning and execution are necessary when installing a DIY collector system for residential heating. To optimize sunlight exposure, it is imperative to take into account various factors, including the collector’s orientation and tilt angle. Furthermore, the selection of the circulation system, whether passive or active, will affect the system’s efficacy and efficiency. In order to maintain optimal performance and stop heat loss, proper sealing and insulation are also essential.

Building your own heating collector is an appealing idea in the realm of insulation and home heating. This do-it-yourself method not only saves money but also gives you a sense of achievement. However, before beginning this project, you must grasp the fundamentals, including the various types of collectors and installation techniques. This article explores the world of do-it-yourself heating collectors, providing clear diagrams and going over the different kinds that are out there. We’ll go through the fundamentals to help you through the process, whether you’re using an air-based system or a solar thermal collector. So let’s investigate the world of do-it-yourself heating collectors together if you’re prepared to take control of the warmth in your house!

The main problem of heating systems

The primary issue with heating systems is malnutrition. This is due to the fact that multiple heating contours are connected by a single boiler connection diameter pipe, which is typically a PPR pipe with a 25 mm diameter. This allows for the precise creation of a clamped system without coolant for the heating contours. We thus experience the heating system’s hunger.

In heating systems, the coolant is the exact substance that absorbs heat (called the coolant’s heat capacity), and this heat is transferred from the heat source to the heat consumer via the pipeline system. To put it simply, pipes are used to transfer the heat that has accumulated in the coolant to the boiler and then to radiators or other heat consumers.

Because of this, the coolant level in our case is very important. Furthermore, there is no need for heat if there is insufficient coolant. The heating system is starving as a result.

Some figures start adding more pumps to control valves and other components without realizing the constant fact that the quantity of coolant increases with heat. If there isn’t enough heat, how can it be removed? Nobody is aware. As a result, precisely calculating the boiler room, the number of boilers, the number of heating contours, and the pipe diameters that connect all of this is crucial to the distribution of heat.

Take into consideration the example of a 100–150 square foot tiny house. These homes frequently have gas wall boilers as the primary boiler. If the wall boiler has a ¾ inch connection, how should I determine the diameter of the heat contour connection pipes?

In this instance, a connection with a 1 inch connection diameter is required to link two heating circuits and one boiler circuit. The student can even clearly see that we have repeatedly surpassed the diameter of the consumers in relation to the boiler’s diameter. For this reason, a lot of people use pipes with a diameter of 25 PPR to connect two or three heating circuits to a boiler. As a result, there is not enough coolant or heat, and people start to complain that the plumbing, systems, pipes, and boiler are all defective.

It is evident from experience that there are no malfunctioning boilers, pipes, systems, or plumbers. Not everyone can have perfected production technology at this point, nor can they have access to up-to-date and pertinent information. For this reason, I frequently advise clients to stay up to date on OVK. This makes it easier to give your master clear instructions about what you want. Track all of the master’s responses and earlier creations concurrently. Nowadays, it takes a lot of money and effort to believe a word because there are many words and few things.

So let’s discuss the situation and attempt to quickly and effectively resolve the issue of insufficient heat in heating systems. As you are already aware, the primary cause of heating issues is coolant shortages, which are frequently brought on by the construction of distribution pipelines that carry heat from sources to end users.

Therefore, it is required to increase the diameter of the distribution pipes from heat sources in order to increase the amount of coolant and heat.

Is it possible to make a heating collector with your own hands

Sometimes it happens that autonomous heating in your own house does not work very efficiently. It seems that the power of the boiler is selected correctly, and the pipe wiring is made correctly, and all installation work was carried out at a professional level, and the temperature in the house is not the way you would like. What to do in this case? There is only one way out – install a distribution collector. By the way, there is no need to buy it ready -made, the design of the collector is not very difficult, so it is not the biggest problem to do it yourself. So, in this article we will answer one question how to make a distribution collector with our own hands?

Functional purpose

First, there is a very important rule that must be strictly followed. If this rule is broken, the house’s heating system will function poorly. According to this rule, the heating boiler’s output pipe diameter should always be equal to or slightly less than the total indicator of all the contours’ diameters that are consuming coolant. if there are more, the best choice.

We provide a wall unit example where the output pipe diameter is ¾ inch for comparison. Assume that this boiler will heat three different circuits:

• The main heating is the radiator system.
• Warm floor.
• An indirect heating boiler in which water will be used for household needs.

Now consider a boiler-like shape where each contour has a minimum diameter of ½ inch. However, there will be three times more indication overall. That is to say, it will be impossible to provide the necessary amount of coolant through the boiler pipe’s diameter in a way that would suffice for all three contours. The amount of heat transfer in this part of the house has decreased.

Naturally, each contour will function normally on its own. For instance, the primary circuit (radiator) will control the heated area entirely even in the absence of warm floors. However, as soon as you activate the warm floor system, the coolant will be grabbed everywhere. The coolant’s temperature is sufficient, but its volume is insufficient.

The heating system’s distribution collector is installed in order to address this rather significant issue. Actually, this is a device that has a design of stainless steel pipes with input and withdrawal devices arranged in accordance with the contours. Shut-off valves are adjusted to control temperature, pressure, flow volume, and speed, among other essential functions.

The ability to regulate the temperature in a single room with the aid of a distribution collector is crucial. Furthermore, this won’t change the temperature in the nearby rooms or the house as a whole.

Collector device

The two pipes’ collector is made up of:

1. Connects the feed pipeline from the boiler with the supply contours of heating systems. This compartment helps the distribution of hot water. Its device especially helps when the question of repairing a particular withdrawal arises. At the same time, on a certain circuit, where it is necessary to carry out repair work, the cutting valve is closed. He just blocks the heat carrier supply.
2. The reverse compartment regulates the pressure inside each circuit, which is what the quality of the coolant is achieved. And, therefore, the quality of heat transfer of heating systems.

Individuals who lack comprehension of the significance of installing the distribution collector start integrating extra components into the heating system, such as circulation pumps and multipurpose valves. Let’s just say that this won’t help; you can’t raise the coolant’s volume with their assistance; all you’ll do is incur unnecessary costs.

Take note! It’s advised to install a different distribution collector on each floor if you own a large multi-story building.

Varieties of chimneys

Chimneys are classified as aluminum, plastic, or stainless steel depending on the material used in their production. In Russia, stainless steel and plastic are widely used.

Usually condensation occurs from a gas boiler with a plastic coaxial chimney. Two-channel plastic pipe that can withstand heat. Temperature of smoke: up to 205 degrees. These chimneys are lightweight, affordable, and simple to install. Poor durability is the drawback.

It is not advised to connect to non-condensation boilers. Their body temperatures are higher. The condensation cannot be connected to traditional chimneys.

Stainless steel is strong, resistant to acid, and can endure temperatures as high as 550 degrees. These are unsold, insulated pipes. Thermal insulation is required when installing coaxial chimneys for two-channel gas boilers. The first kind can be connected to boilers that have an atmospheric burner, has better aerodynamics, and can be utilized collectively in apartment buildings. Resilience: starting at 30 years.

The output of the gas boiler is implied by the circuit of the vertical coaxial chimney, which runs from the facade wall to the roof. In other instances, the pipe exits through the exterior wall and comes to an end there.

Kinds

Heating system collector groups are offered in their completed state, albeit with varying configurations and discharge counts. Selecting the appropriate collector assembly and installing it yourself or with the help of experts is an option.

Nonetheless, the majority of industrial models are general-purpose and may not always meet the requirements of a particular home. If they are modified or refined, the expenses can go up dramatically. Therefore, considering the characteristics of a particular heating system, it is generally easier to collect it from separate blocks with your hands.

Collector group for the heating system assembly

The figure depicts the layout of the universal collector group. It is made up of two blocks with the appropriate amount of coolant installed for both direct and reverse currents. Flow meters are mounted on the supply (direct) manifold, and thermal drives are positioned on the opposite side to control the temperature of the reverse water in each circuit. They will assist you in determining the necessary coolant flow speed, which will control the heating radiators’ temperature.

Air valves, a circulation pump, and a pressure gauge are all installed on the collector distribution node. With the help of brackets, the supply and reverse collectors are integrated into a single block that is fastened to the wall or cabinet. Such a block costs between 15,000 and 20,000 rubles, and its installation will be obviously inappropriate if some of the bards are not involved.

The video demonstrates how to install the completed block.

Grebanka – collector knot

Thermal drives and flow meters are the most costly components of the collector distribution unit. You can purchase a collector node, or "comb," and install the required control devices manually only where they are required to avoid paying too much for extra elements.

Brass tubes measuring ¾ or 1 inch in diameter are used for the rowing, and there are a specific number of sets with ½ inch heating pipe diameter. The bracket serves as another link between them. The reverse manifold layouts come with plugs that let you install thermal drives on all or just some of the contours.

Certain models have the ability to manually adjust the supply with the assistance of cranes. These combs feature a cast housing and a threaded fitting or nut on the ends, making it easy to quickly assemble a collector from the necessary number of layers.

You can make a collector entirely by hand or collect from individual elements to save a collector for heating systems.

Types of collectors in heating systems

There are three types of collector installations that are used in closed circulation heating system designs.

Depending on the structure’s intended use, the following are available on the market: solar and radiator systems, as well as shotgun-equipped devices.

Radiator collector heating

Radiators are a necessary fixture in any home, regardless of the heating system that is installed. Thus, the most common type of collectors are those that distribute coolant flows directly to the batteries that are installed in the rooms.

Two interconnected combs make up the camshaft: the first one routes coolant to the instruments placed in the rooms, and the second one returns it to the boiler.

Radiator heating collectors can be connected in a variety of ways, contingent on the room’s interior design and architecture.

The radiator heating system can be constructed in any of the following ways depending on how it is connected:

• upper connection;
• Lower connection;
• installation on the side;
• Diagonal conduct.

Nonetheless, the lower connection technique was the most popular. The shapes concealed beneath the baseboard or floor are less noticeable with this type of wiring.

Furthermore, the computations verify that every benefit of private heating is fully realized with the lower connection.

Every floor of a house has a collector for radiators. Place it in the middle, hiding the gadget in a niche or a cabinet that has been thoughtfully placed against the wall.

If at all possible, the installation location should be selected so that every device has equal-length branches.

Every withdrawal has a circulation pump if it is not possible to achieve the equality of rings connected to the collector.

Actually, every branch that is connected to the distribution node is a separate outline that occasionally has automation built in along with its own locking reinforcement.

Water warm floors are a visually striking example of a collector heating system.

Every ring in the water "warm floors" system receives a consistent supply of heat thanks to the wiring’s collector scheme.

Warm floor pipelines are constructed from copper pipes or their plastic equivalents; compounds are fitted with unique fittings.

The heat carrier is adjusted using ventiles installed in heating rings, and "warm floors" are disconnected from the main house heating system as needed.

A design comprising several pipe rings is used as the collector for the "warm floor," and it is placed beneath the floor.

These systems always have a circulation pump installed. It is positioned at the entrance to the reverse direction pipe, in an intermediate collector node.

The quantity of rooms fixed on a single comb determines the number of pipes on the distribution node.

The length of the contours is used to calculate the number of collector groups. Calculations are based on a ratio, where one collector group is assigned to 120 meters of pipeline.

Hydraulic arrow

Large-area residential buildings with branched, potent heating systems should be arranged using distribution collectors fitted with a thermal hydraulic distributor or hydraulic shot.

When a link is installed, radiator heating, also known as "warm floors," is connected to it on one side and the heating boiler’s contour on the other.

The primary function of the hydraulic arrow, a vertical hollow pipe with elliptical plugs attached, is to align the pressure applied to the coolant.

When a distribution hydraulic arrow is present, you can address multiple issues simultaneously:

• to avoid sudden temperature changes in pipes that destroy the system in the operational period;
• Due to the admission and secondary circulation of part of the coolant, maintain the constant volume of boiler water, as well as save fuel and electricity;
• If necessary, compensate for the cost of consumption in the secondary circuit.

Because of the device’s ability to isolate the secondary circuit from the boiler’s hydraulic contour, the temperature balance is maintained.

The possibility of building a DIY collector distributor with a hydraulic shotgun that is constructed of steel square pipe and fitted with fittings

As long as every outline has a circulation pump of its own, the hydraulic shotgun system can operate at maximum efficiency.

Solar collector installations

When setting up an autonomous water supply in non-gorged areas with high levels of solar radiation, devices of this type are selected.

The greenhouse effect is responsible for how solar-powered air combs transform sunlight into thermal energy.

Solar plants differ slightly from their conventional counterparts in terms of design. They actually function as a type of greenhouse that stores solar energy.

Due to convection flows and the action of fans attached to the absorbing plate, the coolant naturally circulates within them.

A black adsorbing plate covers a small, flat box that serves as a distributor when exposed to the sun’s rays. Heat is accumulated by this heat acceptance plate.

The air or liquid flowing through pipes can play the role of the coolant, which receives the transferred heat.

The solar manifold’s primary function is to reroute and direct luminary energy toward household requirements.

Mobile solar-powered collector systems are available for purchase. Their layout places the heating components and mirrors in a way that allows them to "monitor" the sun’s movement and maximize the amount of energy absorbed.

However, it is not profitable to use solar plants as the primary source of heating in even the southernmost regions of our nation because of the high cost of equipment.

As a result, they play a larger role as an extra heat source when setting up heating systems that use gas and solid fuel boilers.

The appointment of a collector in warm floors

In heating systems, a warm floor collector serves the following functions:

• stream distribution;
• Temperature control.

Its primary function is to supply each warm floor branch with coolant at the proper temperature and volume. In order to accomplish this, a mixing node is installed in the collector kit along with a pump that controls bypass and valves (in certain versions).

Because boilers prepare water primarily for a temperature far higher than that needed for warm floors, temperature control is necessary. Additionally, the water is combined with the "reversal" until the desired temperature is reached in order to convert it into the necessary parameters.

In the mixing node, the collector.

Without regulation

A cheap version of the distribution system can be made with a collector for a warm floor that is not regulated. It doesn’t use any regulatory devices, and the system’s hydraulic properties determine how the coolant flows are distributed. This option should not be used in spite of the cost because it is inconvenient to use and may lead to problems down the road.

With manual regulation

This type of collector is primarily pursued by those who are attempting to cut costs on equipment. Savings can help you direct your financial resources to where they are most needed, so it’s not always a bad thing. What are the benefits and drawbacks of this approach?

The manual regulation collector can continue to live out its life and serve its purpose of keeping each branch’s coolant level at the proper level.

In this instance, the amount of coolant for each loop is manually set once, and its temperature is tunable in the mixing node. Additionally, the system functions on its own.

These kinds of collectors of brass have shown their worth.

This choice is especially important if you want to add a warm floor to your heating system as an extra cozy feature. Warm floors just add to the comfort when radiators or other devices provide the primary heating. More advanced automation should be included for the primary heating system, which takes the form of a heated floor.

Collector with flow meters

Using a balancing flow meter is one way to control the coolant flows for each branch that extends from the collector. This component allows for both visual control and flow adjustment of the coolant.

The apparatus, which consists of a rod with a flange, gives you control over the pipeline’s conventional passage. It has a graduated window that allows you to see the precise amount of coolant consumed by the branch that is being observed. The adjusting ring located beneath the cap is used to make adjustments. Its connection is made using a thread.

Because of its excellent operating characteristics and low cost, the collector with flow meters is a common component of modern systems.

With automatic regulation

Warm floors, which have collectors with automated regulation installed, are becoming more and more common. Use servo drives for every loop to accomplish this. By combining them with the thermal attitors of a warm water floor, you can modify the coolant flow in each branch based on the measurements.

Collector equipped with servo motors.

The required cross-sectional pass is established for this. Although these systems are more expensive than manual or non-regulated options, they are more flexible and let you have comfortable living conditions. Remember that in order for automatic systems to operate to their full potential, they must be properly regulated.

Design of the distribution unit

It’s just not the universal scheme of the radial type design. Since every case is unique, the knot is outfitted in private with the required equipment. But you should familiarize yourself with general guidelines and advice.

Rules for installing a comb

It is not feasible to install the collector in the apartment. There is one exception to the rule, though: in certain homes, extra valves are installed to connect heating contours while setting up all communications. You can perform an individual collector wiring with such a device.

The radiation plan is inappropriate for apartments in city complexes with multiple stories. Every room has a common riser (+)

The Maevsky crane should be positioned on the comb according to the heating schematic arrangement. It is thought that this choice is ideal, t. To. You will eventually need to release accumulated air from the contours.

Features of the radial group

There are many subtleties in the wiring group’s radius, but some of them are specific to heating another modification.

Features of the comb-equipped system:

1. The circuit of the contour should include a compensation tank, with a volume of more than 10% of the total volume of the heat carrier.
2. The optimal location of the expansion tank is on the reverse pipeline in front of the circulation pump, t. To. here is a smaller temperature regime.
3. If thermal hydraulic is used to be distributed, the diagram is designed so that the tank is placed in front of the main pump responsible for the forced movement of water in the cauldron of the boiler.
4. Installation of the circulation pump is carried out in a strictly horizontal position. If you do not adhere to this rule during the first air traffic jam, the device will lose cooling and lubricants.

Metal or polypropylene are two materials from which the distribution group can be gathered. The tools for joining parts and the worker’s abilities are taken into consideration when making the decision.

In a private cottage, the ideal temperature range for radiator heating is 55-75 °C with a maximum pressure of 1.5 atm. The floors’ warm circuit operates in a mode that raises the temperature to 40 °C. These features are used to determine the pipes’ degree of stability.

Selecting pipes for the distribution group installation is a procedure that is also deemed significant.

The primary elements considering the circuit’s components are:

1. Purchasing pipes only in bays. Due to this, the compounds in the wiring mounted under the concrete screed are not performed.
2. The heat resistance and degree of strength of the gap should be determined individually, based on the technical data of the heating system.

Polypropylene pipes can be used since autonomous heating’s operational characteristics are predictable. They are offered in complete 200-meter lines and have no unwanted connections.

The material stands out for its resistance to heat, as it can tolerate temperatures as high as 95 °C under suitable pressure on a gap of 10 kg/cm^2.

The flexibility of stainless steel pipe is high. The product’s diameter and the bending radius may match. The installation process follows the plan: the pipe needs to be sent to the fitting and secured with a nut.

Stainless steel pipework is the better option for a multistory building.

This content demonstrates superior technical qualities that enable you to handle such a load:

• Warm coolant to 100 ° C, which is more than enough for the heating circuit;
• pressure up to 15 atm.;
• Destruction pressure up to 210 kg/1 cm2.

Brass or plastic fittings designed for polypropylene can be used. A locking ring that is strung to the pipeline is part of the fitting connection.

One of the most significant features of polypropylene pipes is thought to be their ability to retain mechanical processing memory, which leads to plastic deformation of the material.

For instance, if pipes are stretched using an extender and a fitting connector is installed, the pipe will eventually return to its original state and burn the portion. With a locking ring, the contact can be fixed.

Calculation of the heating manifold

The length, diameter of the pipe cross-section, and number of branches of the thermal line are the three primary parameters that must be determined before a thermal hydraulic comb can be manufactured. These attributes can be computed manually or with the aid of specialized software.

The hydraulic engine can only operate to its maximum capacity if the three diameters rule is adhered to. The law states that a mounted hydraulic shotus’s diameter should be three times greater than this parameter in nozzles (+)

The primary requirement for compliance is the structure’s hydraulic balance. The diameter of the cross section of the connected contours must be summarized in order to apply the rule of three diameters for the hydraulic separator.

Consequently, we obtain an amount equivalent to the main pipe’s diameter that is connected to the feed line. Upholding this principle lessens the possibility of the heating system’s overall balance being violated.

A distribution unit is housed in a special cabinet or housing. The minimum allowable spacing of six diameters between the two thermal entry lines and the output must be followed when setting up a system.

The completion of the thermal hydraulic comb project involves the application of three crucial rules: the cross-section of the comb, the exposure of the appropriate distance between the incoming and outgoing lines, and the distance between the contours equal to three diameters (+).

It’s also important to consider how to choose the circulation pump’s performance correctly. To do this, the system’s specific water consumption norm must be calculated, and a pump selection must be made based on the findings.

The miscalculation is carried out for each individual circuit and, generally, for the entire system if the scheme is convoluted by multiple combs.

Equipment that is self-assembling can be assembled using any kind of pipe. This feature has no effect on how the device operates and doesn’t raise local losses. They will receive compensation because of the circulation pump.

Homemade collector

It is crucial to pay attention to the direction

Planning is the first step in producing a homemade distribution collector. Certain elements of the home’s heating system must be determined by you.

• The number of circuits where the coolant will be directed.
• The number of heating equipment. Do not forget to determine its power, water temperature, and so on. That is, you will need its technical characteristics.
• If in the future you plan to integrate additional heating elements into the heating system, for example, a heat pump or solar panels, then it is best to take them in advance.
• The number of additional equipment (pumps, valves, reinforcement, storage tanks, thermometers, pressure gauges, etc.

Now that the device’s design has been decided, it is especially important to think about how each circuit will fit and from which angle (from the side, from above, or from below). We bring up a few subtleties of connection with you.

• Gas or electric boilers are connected to the manifold or from below, or from above. If a circulation pump is installed in the heating system, then the connection is made only from the end of the comb.
• Indirect heating boilers and solid fuel units crash into the collector only from the end.
• The supply contours of heating systems are cut into either from above or below.

If, that is, a tiny sketch of the collector’s design is copied onto the paper. This will provide a visual representation, making the device’s creation easier. Furthermore, it is capable of precisely indicating the dimensional properties that need to be preserved throughout the manufacturing process. For instance, there should be no more than 10–20 cm between the return circuit pipes and the output circuit pipes. It won’t be convenient to maintain, so you shouldn’t do more or less of it. The distance between the two compartments (feed and return) should be within the same range.

Make the gadget attractive and small. It is advised that you label all threaded connections in the figure with the thread size; additionally, don’t forget to sign all required contours. It won’t be in error when connecting. The sketch now makes it obvious how much and what kind of materials you’ll need to build a homemade distribution collector.

Production process

Please be aware that square or round pipes can be used to construct the filing and return compartments. Numerous experts favor the final choice. They assert that working with it is simpler.

Thus, the manufacturing sequence is as follows:

• For all sizes that were indicated on the sketch, it is necessary to prepare the corresponding materials. These are almost all pipes.
• They are connected by the design of the drawing in accordance with the purpose of each.
• The connection is made using a welding machine.
• Welding are necessarily cleaned with an iron brush, if necessary, degreased.
• The finished device is necessarily tested for the presence of leaks. Therefore, all the pipes will have to be closed hermetically, leaving only one. Hot water is filled into it. If none of the joints flowed, then the work is carried out at a high level.
• The collector needs to be painted and dried.
• You can carry out installation and connection of all tubular systems with the installation of shut -off valves.

A less complicated choice

The question now is: Is purchasing a ready-made option not preferable? One "but" exists. Your heating system may not be compatible with the completed camshaft; in this case, you will need to align the heat engineering indicators in another way. For instance, by adding a second comb. Additionally, there are additional expenses and a surplus of installed installation work. Furthermore, a comb that you made yourself, taking into consideration every aspect of your home’s heating system, will precisely fit it and function sensibly.

Thus, you ought to consider the query posed at the outset of the piece: how can you create a distribution collector by hand? Assume that you spend a single day on this straightforward procedure. However, the ability to operate a welding machine and other locksmith tools is a need. It will be hard to guarantee the device’s quality without this.

Elements of the heating circuit

Contemporary heating, which uses collectors to provide heat, necessitates building a sizable structure with the following primary components:

1. The source of thermal energy. It is the first starting point from which the heated coolant is sent to pipelines and heating radiators. The power of heat units must be accurately calculated so that the equipment functions in accordance with its purpose.

When building a heating structure, selecting a boiler and figuring out its specifications is a crucial step. The rooms won’t be warm enough because the low power indicator prevents the circuit from operating at maximum capacity. The fuel will be overspent due to the overestimated necessity of heat transfer, which will necessitate the installation of regulatory components and consequently additional costs;

How to save on a mixing unit

Despite the fact that these are 2 distinct components with distinct purposes, many master plumbers view it as an essential component of the collector for floor heating. The mixing node controls the coolant’s temperature, keeping it between 35 and 45 °C with a maximum of 55 °C. The comb’s job is to distribute the coolant throughout the contours. The algorithm below describes how the assembly connection scheme displayed below operates:

1. While heating the system, standing on the supply of a two -way valve is completely open and passes the maximum of water.
2. Когда температура поднимается до расчетного значения (как правило, это 45 °С), выносной датчик воздействует на термоголовку, а та начинает перекрывать проток через клапан, нажимая на шток.
3. After the valve mechanism is completely closed, the coolant, encouraged by the pump movement, circulates only in the closed network of a warm floor.
4. The gradual cooling of water records the temperature sensor, which is why the thermal head releases the rod, the valve opens and a portion of hot water enters the system, and part of the cold goes into the return. The heating cycle is repeated.

It should be noted that the mixing unit will need to add a bypass and bypass valve if the collector thermostats are managed by servo drives. When servo drives unexpectedly block all contours, the objective is to arrange circulation in a small circle.

There’s good news for those with limited resources who still want warm floors: it’s not always necessary to install a two- or three-way valve with a pump. There are two ways that you can lower the system cost without buying the mixer:

• to power the heating contours directly from the gas boiler through the collector;
• Put on the collector valves of thermal drives RTL.

The collector node made of brass tees regulates by automatically preventing RTL heads from flowing in the opposite direction.

Despite being applied fairly successfully, the first option is in direct contradiction to all canons and cannot be regarded as correct. In summary, modern wall-type gas boilers are capable of keeping the water they supply between 40 and 50 degrees Celsius, which is suitable for a warm floor. However, there are three drawbacks:

1. In the spring and autumn, when minimal frosts are on the street, the boiler will not be able to lower the temperature of the coolant below 35 ° C, which is why in the rooms it will become stuffy and hot due to heating the entire floor surface.
2. In minimal burning mode, the parts of the heating unit are covered by soot twice.
3. Due to the same mode of efficiency of the heat generator, it decreases by 5-10%.

Suggestions. Installing conventional heating radiators in a private home’s rooms and connecting the floor heating to serious cooling will help prevent discomfort during hot spells.

The RTL type thermostatic heads function similarly to a two-way valve, but they are fixed to each circuit and lack remote sensors. When the water temperature rises above 45–55 °C (depending on the adjustment), the thermo-element responds by standing inside the head and covering the current along the contour. The comb is simultaneously directly linked to a heat source that operates on firewood, diesel, or pellets.

A crucial prerequisite. Each circuit should not be longer than 60 meters in order for warm floors controlled by RTL thermal heads to function normally. Learn more about this heating device and the proper assembly methods, which are covered in the upcoming video and in a separate instruction:

Metallic

It will be possible to eliminate the need for a soldering iron and slightly reduce the size of the structure if you choose metal fittings rather than polypropylene. However, you are about to face yet another underwater stone in the shape of inexpensive, thin-walled tees, for which it is extremely difficult to use a pipe key because the low-grade material may break. The factory collector will receive the full cost of the product if you purchase solid fittings, but the savings will still apply.

The photo’s internal and external brass tee and ball valves with a low rod and "butterfly" handle style must be chosen for manufacturing. The second section of the comb will use the same radiator valves. The technique of assembly is straightforward: insert the cranes and other components after packing the thread with flax or thread and twisting the fittings among themselves.

Suggestions. In order to make the homemade manifold appear presentable, try to align all of the side bastards and the crane stems in one direction when assembling. Remove the handles and adjust the caps in the pipeline reinforcement as you wind it up to prevent them from sticking to nearby taps.

It’s a complicated question to put flow meters on a comb from brass fittings. After that, the supply line needs to be removed from the crosses and fitted with rotameter-specific adapters. It will be necessary to remove the adapter because some of them are also produced under the European Council. Without flowers, the system is easier to observe.

There is nowhere to place a rotameter here, as the picture illustrates.

The choice of components of the system

It is best to buy factory production distribution nodes when designing heating.

The assortment’s diversity makes it easy to select the comb for a given set of heating parameters, guaranteeing the system’s accuracy and dependability.

Thermostatic valves, automatic air vents, and ready-made collector blocks that combine the supply and reverse nodes are all available for purchase.

For a breakthrough, corrosion resistance, heat resistance, and high strength are the most important factors to consider when selecting pipes for heating contours. Furthermore, pipes should possess the requisite pliability to enable installation at any angle.

Pipes made in bays should be prioritized when selecting products. Wiring compounds can be avoided by using whole products, which is especially important if the installation method is closed inside the screed.

Pipes for systems of private cottages

It is important to keep in mind that the system pressure in private homes is approximately 1.5 atmospheres, and the coolant temperature can reach:

• for radiators-50-70 degrees;
• for warm floors-30-40 degrees.

Stainless corrugated trumpers are not at all necessary for autonomous heating systems with their predictable parameters. The only pipes that many owners can purchase are those with "Reh" labels made of stitched polyethylene.

200-meter bays of polyethylene pipes are available for heating contours; these pipes can operate at temperatures between 95 °C and 10 kgf/sq.cm and can withstand pressures up to that amount.

Stretch fittings are used to coast such pipes in order to create inextricable connections.

The primary benefit of stitched polyethylene, aside from its elevated operational parameters, lies in its mechanical memory. As a result, the fitting will securely cover the formed lumen if you firmly stretch the pipe’s edge and insert it, creating a strong connection.

When connecting metal-plastic pipes, clogging fittings with compressive nuts are used to make the connection. Furthermore, this can already be acquired through a detachable connection, which the SNiP states cannot be "frozen."

You might also know which pipes are better to select for heating purposes in this regard.

Pipes for apartment buildings

When installing a collector system in an apartment building, keep in mind that the coolant temperature can reach between 100 and 120 °C and that the system operates at a working pressure of 10 to 15 atmospheres. It should be kept in mind that only the ground floor is suitable for a collector heating device.

Stainless steel corrugated pipes are the ideal choice when installing a system in an apartment building.

The goods produced by the Korean business Kofulso are a prime illustration of this. This brand’s pipes can tolerate temperatures up to 110 °C and operate at a working pressure of 15 atmospheres. The pressure of Kofulso’s destruction reaches 210 kgf/sq.cm.

It is convenient to use the products when laying a "warm floor" because of the pipe’s exceptional flexibility, which allows the bending radius to match its diameter.

Using these components to assemble pipeline joints is not difficult. All that needs to be done to secure the pipe is to slide it into a fitting and wind a nut to compress a metal corrugated surface and create an elastic silicone seal.

Choosing pipes

The primary pipeline parameters must be coordinated before any work directly related to the construction of the heat supply system can begin. The pipeline, the collector’s entrances and exits, and the thermal energy source should all have the same diameter. Otherwise, adapters are used when using pipes with varying diameters. The installation of these demands more time and money for materials.

Although there are various materials for the supply and return pipes used to transport liquid coolant, experts advise utilizing polypropylene pipes (see "Installation of the heating system from polypropylene pipes with their own hands" for more information).

Their accessibility, usefulness, and simplicity of use during installation are their advantages. Hydraulic calculations should be used as a basis for choosing polypropylene pipe.

When pipes are not cut to the specified diameter, the following bad things happen:

• violation of the circulation of the coolant;
• Publishing the heating circuit;
• Uneven heating.

Constructive features

In contrast to Troinic heating, which is commonly used by owners of city apartments and houses in older buildings, radiation heating allows for a parallel rather than a continuous connection between the batteries and the heating boiler.

In this instance, all required control equipment and pumps are neatly installed in a special collector cabinet. Taps, manometers, and so forth.

The following are the distinctions between the two installation strategies previously mentioned:

1. Troinic wiring requires a much smaller number of pipes themselves, but when installing it, you need to use many fittings: tees, drives, couplings and so on. This complicates the installation procedure. In addition, the sequential method of arranging a heating system is considered less reliable, since in this case there is a high probability of errors that will lead to depressurization, the formation of sites with various fluid pressure, and so on.

Trigeminal technique for applying eyeliner

1. Radiation heating wiring, despite the need for acquisition, much larger number of pipes, uses only two compounds for each radiator: when junction with the collector and on the battery pipe.

Consequently, you can safely walk each "beam" of the heating network to the floor without worrying that a leak will occur at a junction. Furthermore, in the event that a malfunction is identified, it is simple to isolate the affected region without interfering with the coolant’s flow through heat-sensitive devices situated in adjacent rooms.

Heating pipeline wiring scheme for radiation

It should be mentioned that the cost of radiation heating is one of its primary drawbacks. This is particularly valid for systems that have electrical equipment installed.

The principle of work of the collector

In terms of the collector’s operation principle, everything is fairly straightforward. The supplier receives the liquid after the heat generator heats the water. An increased radius on this intermediate node helps to significantly slow down the coolant current’s speed. You can now distribute water over multiple discharges thanks to this.

Once the number of coolants used in each circuit for heating the apartment (at home) is known, the cross-sectional area can be determined by selecting the required power for the boiler or heat generator and the fluid current speed. Always convert liters to milliliters (mm3) when performing calculations.

The liquid gradually releases heat when it hits a radiator or heated floor. It then flows in the opposite direction, arriving at the collector block’s distribution unit. In order to guide the cooled heat carrier into the boiler or another generator for re-heating, the reverse comb is activated here.

Radiation scheme and warm floor

The "warm floor" system and a homemade collector for heating can be combined using the radiation scheme. However, there are several features in this design.

Prior to beginning the process of creating it, you must familiarize yourself with them:

• The installation of the heating collector should be carried out provided that it will be equipped with adjusting valves and thermostatic valves on absolutely all contours;
• When wiring pipes for the heat supply system, the “warm floor” will certainly use electric -the -floor drives and thermostatic heads. Thanks to these devices, “warm floors” will be able to quickly respond to a change in the temperature regime and maintain the necessary microclimate in each of the premises;
• The option for arranging the distribution system can be different – typical (executed according to the standard scheme) and individual. The last way deserves special attention. In this case, the boiler works in normal mode without significant temperature jumps, and fuel is consumed economically.

Advantages of the radial heat supply system

When contrasting the radial system with its traditional counterparts (using either an industrial or homemade heating manifold), the following benefits become apparent:

• It is possible to perform hidden installation of various elements of equipment for the heat supply of the structure;
• There are no places of joints on the site where the heating collector is installed and up to heating radiators;
• simple work on installing the constituent elements, as a result of which the work can be done independently without the appropriate skills. In the process of installation, the number of connections is minimal and the assembly is performed as soon as possible;
• The stable operation of the system is due to the impossibility of hydraulic strokes, which is relevant for the owners who decided to install expensive heating devices;
• The rapid replacement of the elements that have become unusable, for example, pipelines, without complex installation work and destruction of the surface of the concrete screed. It will be enough to turn off the beam that needs to be repaired, and eliminate the defect that appears without disconnecting the heat supply system;
• affordable cost of equipment and components;
• simplified installation;
• The design of the system is carried out in the shortest possible time based on calculations of its parameters, including the calculation of the heating collector;
• compatibility with other sources of thermal energy, including alternative.

Solar collectors are often the focus of such a solution. It is feasible to use combs and this alternate form of heating, but there are drawbacks that have been studied by experts for more than a year (see "The distribution of the heating system is the purpose and principle of operation").

Thus, we can conclude that, of all the heat supply designs currently available on the domestic market, the radiation wiring of the heating system using collectors can be regarded as the most highly productive, economical, and effective. From large structures to individual homes, all types of buildings employ a similar plan.

Modifications of collector components

It is vital to ascertain the functional load of the collector node prior to collecting it. The apparatus can be installed in multiple thermal line segments. On the basis of this, the dimensions, equipment requirements, and degree of automation for the work cycle are chosen.

To be exact, two devices are required for this kind of node to function fully. Distribution from the central supply pipeline is done following the heat carrier’s contours using a comb. The collection mechanism and the point at which the cooled fluid leaves the boiler represent the reverse collector channel.

The installation site and the necessary functionality are calculated to determine which collector heating scheme to use. The number of important mechanisms is unaffected by the material choice used to manufacture the device.

It might be necessary to install a homemade distribution group in order to set up water warm floors or set up radiators for standard heating.

The dimensions and components of both options are distinctive features.

1. Boiler room. The welded collector group is made of pipes with a diameter of up to 100 mm. A circulation pump and locking valves are installed on the supply. The reverse ring is equipped with cutting off ball valves.

Every one of these solutions has a unique installation plan. Only after thorough miscalculations of all working point parameters can the correct installation of every component be completed.

The pipeline’s material can also be used to make the comb. If not, the collector will be connected using adapters.

Additionally, there are variations in the quantity of circulation pumps needed. Every line in the boiler room has this device installed. Just one for floor heating.

Complanar distribution collector

Selecting a device for your heating system can be challenging, even with the wide range of distribution collectors available in construction stores in varying sizes. The number of contours or their section might not line up. This means that you will have to create a monster out of multiple collectors, which obviously has a negative impact on the heating system’s effectiveness. And it won’t be as enjoyable to buy cheap.

However, you shouldn’t take "experienced" people’s claims that the system can operate flawlessly when connected directly to the boiler seriously. This is an error. Installing a distribution collector is not an option if your heating system has more than three contours; rather, it is required.

However, you can do it yourself if there isn’t a distribution collector that meets your needs in terms of parameters.

Make a jacket collector with our own hands

The number of heating contours in your system is taken into consideration when developing the distribution collector project. Consider the location of your heating boiler, the size of its input and output pipes, and the number of heating circuits or indirect heating contours that the heating system will use. Maybe you want to add another room to your home next year, or you want to add more contours overall. The distribution system can also be linked to other devices, such as heat pumps and solar collectors. We also take into account every distribution heat system, such as fankeels, heating radiators, warm water floors, and so forth.

Considering that every circuit has a hot water supply pipe and a return pipe, we draw a diagram of our heating system.

A group of thermostats, an extensor tank, an automatic fiber valve, a drain valve, a crane for system filling, and other pieces of equipment should all be considered when designing the system.

Determines the location of the pipes that will be connected to our distribution collector, a process known as spatial design. It is customary to place nozzles on the ends of the collector in order to connect a solid fuel boiler and provide indirect heating. It crashes from above or into the end if your system has a wall gas or electric boiler.

We sketch the future distribution collector using the information at hand. Using millimeter paper for this is convenient. The pipes should not be separated by more than 20 centimeters, but neither should they be separated by less than 10 centimeters. The distance between the return pipe and the honey pipe for a single heating circuit should be at least 10 centimeters. Groups of pipes with the same contour should stand out visually.

We design a collector

The illustration below provides an example of how to design a distribution collector, into which the heating system’s six contours will be connected.

We draw two rectangles at the beginning. Both the manual and actual collectors are shown here.

A manual manifold and feed collector

We design the boiler’s connection to an indirect heating boiler on the trachitators’ trachis. Don’t forget to include the cross-sectional drawing parameters for the future pipes.

Linking an indirect heating boilerto the boiler

We create the connection between the extra heating boilers and the heating contours. We remember to include the pipe sizes and cross section as well. Each designed nozzle bears our signature.

Linking extra heating boilers and heating contours

We design the connection of additional equipment at the following step. This includes an expansion tank, a plum tap, a protective unit, and a system thermometer in our instance. Please take note that the return’s contours are blue, and the heat carrier supply’s contours are released in red.

Connecting extra apparatus

It was an early sketch. After verifying that it is accurate, we move its clearing to a fresh piece of paper. We will independently develop a distribution collector based on their project.

We make a distribution collector

We compute the amount of material required to make the collector. Using Excel’s electric tables is the simplest way to accomplish this. This program also allows you to determine the cost of the materials needed to manufacture the device. We obtain the required raw materials and get the equipment ready for self-sufficient production.

The standard or square cross-sectional pipes will be the starting materials for the collector’s main components. We use a caliper, ruler, and core to mark them as needed.

We apply the appropriate marking.

Make holes underneath the nozzles with a gas cutter.

We create nozzle-holes.

Place the pipes (segments of pipes with threads) into the seats.

Welding is how we fix the pipes. First, scald the outside of the circle.

We use welding to fix the pipes.

Additionally, weld was done on the brackets that secure the housing to the wall.

Welded to the bracket’s hull

We remove rust and scale from the welding areas.

We sanitize the areas used for welding.

After two or three days, the paint is fully absorbed, and we dispose of it using a distribution collector that we made ourselves. All that’s left to do is install it and link all incoming and outgoing contours to it.

Ready-to-assemble distribution collector at home

A straightforward stack of heating pipes will not function as efficiently as the distribution collector system.

We suggest watching a training video to fully understand the subtleties involved in the independent manufacture of a distribution collector and the breadth of its application.

Do it yourself

It is possible to make the heating system’s distribution collector independently out of metal or polypropylene. Functionality is unaffected by material selection, so go with what will be easiest for you to mount yourself.

A metal-welding inverter, specialized equipment for welding polypropylene pipes, and the necessary labor are required for the installation of a polypropylene collector unit.

Calculation and distribution of contours

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the required number of heating contours and perform the drawing of their connection. It is advisable to highlight individual contours to the following heating devices:

The collector’s geometric measurements should guarantee that the locking and adjusting mechanisms of each layer are easy to access and lightweight. It is recommended to leave an average of 10-15 cm between layers and 20-30 cm between the supply and reverse manifold.

The pipes used to connect heating radiators typically have a ½-inch diameter, while the collector measures 1-1½ inches. This ensures that the pipes match the boiler nozzle diameter. The supply and reverse pipe connections for gas and electric boilers may be made upper and lower; only lateral connections for solid fuels are permitted.

Polypropylene knot

It is constructed using fittings and leftover polypropylene pipe scraps. Welding pipes requires a specialized tool. A polypropylene pipe measuring Ø32 mm and tees measuring 32/32/16 mm are utilized for the feed and reverse manifold, and they are joined by a polypropylene welding apparatus. Before using pipe scraps, the mode is chosen.

The drain valve is connected to the installed tee 32/32/32 mm at one end, while the air valve is installed at the other. At the opposite end of the collector is an introductory valve, to which the boiler’s supplier or reverse pipe is connected.

Court valves are connected to the settings of 16 mm on the supply collector, and on the opposite – flow meters. The obtained nodes are attached to the wall with brackets.

Brass fittings knot

In a similar vein, a collector can be put together using pre-made brass fittings like valves and tees. They are gathered using a liquid fixer or linen dad in accordance with a prearranged plan. Small size and low cost in comparison to the finished collector group are the collector’s benefits. However, careful attention to detail and precision are needed during assembly to prevent leaks during operation.

With a profile pipe with your own hands

Welding is the most challenging design element in the distribution collector. constructed from pipe with a square and round cross section. These collectors have a hydraulic shotgun-stream distributor and are used to heat large objects with multiple contours.

Use a round section with the calculated diameter and a profile pipe measuring 80 by 80 or 100 by 100 mm when manufacturing the collector. The technology and detailed instructions needed to manufacture a collector are provided below.

• It is necessary to prepare a sketch of the future heating system. To do this, you need to determine all the connected contours and diameters of the pipes, as well as the equipment additionally connected to them – flow meters, manometers, circulation pumps.
• On the sheet of millimeters or leaf into the cage on the scale, perform a drawing of the collector node, withstanding the distance necessary for the convenience of installing the distance. Between the pipes, it is recommended to make 10-20 cm distance, between collector units-20-30 cm. In the drawing, you need to indicate not only the distances, but also the diameters of the pipes.
• Decide on the installation site of a collector group and auxiliary equipment: an expansion tank, a pump, a boiler security group, boiler. Check the overall dimensions and make sure that the collector group is installed without interference with other equipment.

• Profile pipe is marked in accordance with the scheme.

• The gas cutting openings are made by the gas cutter.

• They welcome nozzles to them – small segments of a round diameter pipe with pre -chopped thread. First grabbed with point welding, and then boiled along the contour and carefully protect the seams.

• Fasteners are welded to the resulting block.

• The resulting collector group is cleaned from scale, pollution, rust, after which it is primed and covered with heat -resistant paint for metal. For the convenience of maintenance, the supply and reverse contours are best painted in different colors, traditionally – red and blue.

The video demonstrates how a camshaft is made from a profile pipe.

It is advised to install hydraulic arrows in complex systems with many contours serving different purposes. These arrows will distribute and align the coolant’s straight and reverse flows to a safe pressure and temperature.

Collector Diagrams	Varieties
Illustrations showing how to build a collector for heating a house.	Various types of collectors, such as flat-plate and evacuated tube collectors.
Installation Process
Step-by-step guide on how to install a DIY heating collector.

Building a DIY solar collector is an economical and environmentally responsible way to minimize your carbon footprint and save energy costs for heating your home. Instead of depending only on conventional heating techniques, you can effectively heat your home by utilizing the sun’s energy.

Solar collectors come in a variety of forms, each with pros and cons of their own. The most popular kind of collectors are flat-plate collectors, which can be built rather simply. They are made up of a dark-colored absorber plate to capture solar energy and an insulated metal box with a transparent cover. Conversely, evacuated tube collectors can generate hot water even in overcast weather and are more effective in colder climates.

To optimize sunlight exposure during installation, it is crucial to take into account elements like the collector’s orientation and angle. Maximum efficiency can be ensured with installations facing south and tilted at the ideal angle. In order to keep the system efficient and stop heat loss, adequate sealing and insulation are also essential.

Although installing a solar collector for your house needs careful planning and attention to detail, homeowners can successfully complete this do-it-yourself project with the right resources and guidance. Whether you’re a novice or an experienced DIY enthusiast, there are a ton of online tutorials, guides, and kits available to help you through the process.

In conclusion, building a DIY solar collector to heat your home is a worthwhile project with financial and environmental advantages. You can take advantage of a cost-effective, sustainable heating solution that lessens your dependency on fossil fuels by utilizing the sun’s energy. Anyone can start this journey towards a more energy-efficient home if they have the necessary information and resources.